CHAPTER VIII: BUILDING BY HAND

The production of pottery by hand is a form of modeling but with the important difference that while pieces modeled by art-school methods are not intended to be preserved in the clay itself, built pieces are destined for the fire. It is therefore necessary not only that a special clay be used but that the work be such as will hold under the strain of the burn. The composition of the clay has been dealt with in another chapter and it is presumed that the worker has decided upon the proper mix or has procured a suitable clay.

There are two possible treatments of built pottery; the work may be finished by fingers and tools only or it may be placed upon the wheel and turned to a true surface. In the latter case the result is much the same as if the piece were thrown on the wheel as will be described. The principal point of difference is that while building needs less practice than throwing, turning a built piece is much more difficult and tedious than turning a thrown one. It is almost impossible to build with sufficient accuracy for the work to run true, and a great deal of time is consumed in filling hollows and removing lumps. These do not appear obtrusive when the work is held in the hand, but if it be revolved upon a fixed center every slight irregularity appears to be accentuated. On the other hand the charm of built ware lies in the subtle plastic quality which belongs to no other material or method.

For very large pieces such as tree pots the combination method is useful but these should be built on the wheel itself and kept true as the work proceeds. Then a slight turning at the finish, when the clay is leather hard, will produce a satisfactory result.

The clay for building should be rather soft as it is apt to dry quickly on handling. The work may be done either with coils or pieces.

A plaster bat should be made with a low dome in the center. This bat may either fit the wheel or not, depending upon the plan adopted. The dome is to raise up the bottom of the vase and form a foot. The table may be covered with a piece of oil cloth or may be kept slightly damp. The first attempt should be to build a cylinder as this form is easy to construct and to keep true, so that the attention may be devoted to the manipulation of the clay.

It is first necessary to roll out the clay into cords which should be a little thicker than the proposed walls are to be. These cords should be as uniform as possible and should be rolled quickly to avoid undue hardening. It is best to roll them as required. The domed bat is made quite damp and upon it should be marked the diameter of the cylinder to be built. A roll of clay is taken, one end laid in the center of the bat and the rest is coiled around it in a spiral line. When the disc so formed has reached the proper size, the coils are gently rubbed over with the fingers until they have thoroughly united and the lines of the spiral have disappeared. The clay disc may now be turned over and the rubbing continued on the other side. The circle is cut true and a new coil is laid on the outer edge thus making a shallow circular tray. In raising the walls it is best to pinch off the roll of clay when one circle has been completed and the new roll should be begun at another point so that all the joints will not be at the same place. This plan is better than coiling a long roll in a spiral for in this case one side of the piece will be higher than the other.

After three rolls have been laid in position the wall, both inside and out, should be worked like the bottom so that the rolls will disappear and the clay be welded uniformly together. This should be done without water or with as little as possible. The use of water is very tempting. It makes the clay so smooth and seems to help but it will inevitably make the work sloppy and will tend to soften the walls.

After three or four rolls have been worked in, the piece should be laid aside for some hours to stiffen. If this be not done the weight of the second building will cause the work to sag and fall out of shape. For this reason it is well to have two or three pieces in hand at once so that there need be no waiting. When the cylinder is of sufficient height it should be allowed to become quite stiff and then the irregularities should be corrected with a little soft clay which is worked into the joints. The whole surface may now be gone over with tools and brought to the required finish. As soon as the clay is hard enough it should be removed from the damp bat and placed upon a dry one to become dry.

In the method of building by pieces no rolls are prepared but the clay is taken, pinch by pinch, each morsel being pressed into place as the work goes on. This plan is somewhat more plastic in effect and is well adapted to free-hand work; the resulting pottery, however, is generally thicker and heavier.

The craft of building is not mastered until the lines of a drawing can be successfully followed. The clay is apt to choose its own way and the result will be very different from what the potter intended. The design should be carefully worked out on paper, full size if possible, and the clay form should be compared with the drawing as the building goes on. A profile may be cut in cardboard and this, applied to the clay from time to time, will verify the line, but all such mechanical aids should be used sparingly as the value of this work depends largely upon the sense of freedom and self-expression which belongs to it.

The thickness of the clay walls is a matter of great importance. A small piece should not be so thick as to feel clumsy and heavy, nor should a large piece be so thin as to lose the sense of strength and solidity.

It may be found on drying the ware, that cracks, especially in the bottom, are developed. The cause of this may be in the clay. A clay which is too plastic or too fine in the grain will surely crack. Such a clay may be opened or meagered by the addition of ground flint or fine grog. The cause may, on the other hand, be in the building. If the welding of the coils or pieces be imperfectly done, cracks are sure to result. If the bottom be too thick it will crack. A great strain is put upon the bottom in drying. The clay must be able to shrink and while the side walls are able to settle down on themselves, the bottom is pulled in every direction by the sides. The bottom should be made quite thin in the center and thicker toward the edges. This will help to avoid cracks. A bad crack cannot be successfully mended. It is best to break the piece and begin again. To burn it means the loss of the clay but the clay will be saved if the damaged work be withheld from the kiln. A small crack on the edge is also hopeless. A crack showing on the edge of a piece is a bad fault. A small crack in the bottom may be mended by dampening the place carefully and pressing in a little stiff clay.