Part 33
Jury dégustateur (the), 120 _et seq._
Juvenal, referred to, 34, 37, 40; quoted, 37, 42
"Kalendare de Potages dyuers," 88, 90
Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, 309
King (Wm.), poem on cookery, 279
Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, 106
Kuchen, merits of the German, 169, 174
"Kuchenmeisterey," 171
La Bruyère, quoted, 229, 380
Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, 211
La Fontaine, referred to, 116
Laguipière, referred to, 6, 201, 202
Lamb (Charles), referred to, 17, 239, 240-242, 430; his apology to the pig, 240
Lampridius, quoted, 47
Larding (art of), its discoverer, 281
La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, 66, 72, 112 _et seq._, 178, 196, 213, 225, 317, 336, 361, 443; poem of, 117; quoted, 118, 233, 236, 287, 345, 348, 383, 411; his home kitchen, 131, 132; as a gastronomer, 132; denounced by Savarin, 158; his tribute to Savarin, 177. _Vide_ also "l'Almanach des Gourmands"
La Rochefoucauld, quoted, 5
Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, 172
Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, 335
Liar, charm of the accomplished, 331
Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, 283-285
"Livre de Cuisine (Le)," 225
Locust (the), as an article of diet, 7
Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, 53; XIV, as a gastronomer, 64 _et seq._; XV, as a gastronomer, 61; XVIII, as a gastronomer, 76, 78
Lucullus, as an epicure, 41-43; referred to, 45, 200, 201
Luncheon, an ideal woodland, 375 _et seq._
Lyne (Bishop de), referred to, 149
Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, 120
Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, 220
Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, 169
Mæcenas, referred to, 38, 39
Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, 394
Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on pâté de foie gras, 161; his "Watergrasshill Carousal," 309
Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, 67, 63, 340
Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, 136-138, 204
"Maître d'Hôtel Français (Le)," 206
"Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, 69; referred to, 93-95
Markham (Gervaise), referred to, 93-95; quoted, 409
Marriage, Balzac's definition of, 351
Martial, quoted, 24, 31, 33, 44; referred to, 37, 38, 40
Marvell (Andrew), referred to, 81, 252
Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," 311
Mead, its composition, 97
Medici (Catherine de), 52, 433
Melons, 9, 273, 298
"Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, 271
"Memorials of Gormandizing," 329
Metheglin, 96, 98, 439
Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, 166
Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, 117-119, 125, 126
Mind _vs._ stomach, 5
Mistletoe-thrush, 361
"Modern Cook (The)," 208
Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, 163
Molière, referred to, 57, 58, 113
Monselet (Charles), quoted, 175, 194, 206, 264; referred to, 211, 225, 232, 340
Montaigne, quoted, 6, 51, 200, 376, 414; referred to, 147, 283
Montauron (Seigneur de), 54
Montausier (Duc de), 54, 55
Montespan (Mme. de), 58, 63
Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, 424
Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, 304
Morgan (Lady), referred to, 62; quoted, 200
Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, 64
Moynier (M. M.), referred to, 394, 396
Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, 311
Mullet, a much-valued fish, 32, 47; origin of the name, 33
Murger (Henri), referred to, 341
Mushrooms, 362; species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, 397-408
Musset (Alfred de), quoted, 219
Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, 359, 380
Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, 61
Nasidienus, the feast of, 39, 40
Nero, his _Domus aurea_, 43
Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, 175, 178, 200
North, (Christopher), 309, 316
"Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 220
Nudels, 167
Oaks, list of truffle-producing, 391
Oil and vinegar, 415-416
"Old Cookery Books," quoted, 275
Olive-oil, remote use of, 8
Olla podrida, 50; en grande, 50
Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, 299-302
Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, 295
Onion, an ancient vegetable, 9; tribe, virtues of the, 100, 107, 231, 387
"Original (The)," 319 _et seq._
Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, 258
Ortolans, 76, 361
Ostade, referred to, 74, 445
Oudry, referred to, 234
Ovens, Carême's remarks on, 202
Oyster-beds, first artificial, 27
Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, 89; superiority of American, 252
Pain perdu, 89
Painting, Italian school of, 6, 48, 245; Dutch and Flemish schools of, 6, 246, 445; French school of, 246
"Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," 17, 209
Papabotte (the), 362-363
Parkinson (John), 81, 411
Parsley, virtues of, 106, 231
Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, 138; Carême's definition of, 202
Pâte de foie gras, 7, 130, 156, 158, 161, 162, 189, 235, 236, 397; La Reynière's account of a, 123; its history, 159; d'écrevisses, 203; de Chartres, 434
"Pâtissier français (Le)," 59
Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, 107, 342
Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, 252
Pepper, superiority of adulterated, 417
Pepys (Diary of), quoted, 99-101
Perdrix à l'espagnol, 50
Perfumes, use of, at feasts, 13, 28
Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, 77
"Petite Cuisine (La)," 227
Petrarch, on wine, 293
Petronius Arbiter, referred to, 35, 37
Pheasant (the), 289, 359
Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, 61
"Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, 106
Physicians, as gastronomers, 78, 267
"Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, 175 _et seq._, 206, 351, 395. _Vide_ also "Savarin"
Pie (pumpkin), its origin, 273; a game, 372
Pies, 249, 430 _et seq._; wild boar, 89; strange early English, 95
Pig (the), his popularity as a signboard, 67; of Westphalia and Rothenburg, 164; as a factor of gastronomy, 229 _et seq._; "Dissertation sur le Cochon," 231; "Gli Elogi del Porco," 231; M. Pouvoisin's eulogy of, 232; Rev. Joseph A. Ely's eulogy of, 232; Monselet's eulogy of, 232; Southey's eulogy of, 232; La Reynière's eulogies of, 233, 236; Ernest d'Hervilly's sonnet to, 233; Spenser's and Thomson's unjust strictures on, 235, 238; the Southern razorback, 235, 306; fondness for truffles, 236, 389; Leigh Hunt's essay on, 239; Charles Lamb's apology to the elder animal, 240; as a retriever of game, 244; a German eulogy of, 244; his influence upon the polite arts, 245-246; "Rôti-Cochon," 261, 414
"Pig-Driving, On the Graces and Anxieties of," 239
Planked shad, origin of, 253 _et seq._
Pliny, quoted, 31; referred to, 40, 384, 395
Plover, upland or grass, 361 _et seq._
Plum-porridge, 435
Plum-pudding, and history of, 334, 434-435
Pompadour (Marquise de), 63
Pope, quoted, 83, 103
Pork, the favourite dish of the ancients, 17; origin of, 230
Pork-pie, 89
Porridge, use of, by the ancients, 24
Potato, history of the, 255-256, 306
Potatoes, in England, 272, 330
Pot-au-feu, importance of the, 224
Propertius, quoted, 38
Prout (Father). _Vide_ Rev. Francis Mahony "Psalm, a penitential," 286
Puff-balls. _Vide_ "Mushrooms"
Punch, origin of the word, 97
Punctuality. _Vide_ "Dinner, punctuality at"
Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, 9
Quail, 363, 365, 366, 375, 382
Recipes A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), 426 "A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), 110 A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), 109 A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), 109 Bakewell pudding, 276 Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, 224 Brook trout (Savarin), 179; (Baron Brisse's formulas), 180 Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, 29 Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), 405 Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, 18 Cock ale, Markham's formula for, 98 "Dish of Roses" (the). Laurentius' recipe for, 18 Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), 327 Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), 380 Guisado, the Spanish, 51 How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), 109 How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), 110 Kalter Aufschnitt, 169 Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), 276 Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), 371 Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), 193 Potage aux choux (Dumas), 224 Quail à la financière (Gouffé), 226 Roast goose _à l'allemande_, 157 Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), 439 Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), 208; for green geese and ducklings, 278; à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), 352 Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), 242 "The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), 302 The hunter's sandwich, 441
Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, 353
Récamier (Mme.), referred to, 300
Reed-birds, 359, 361
Rembrandt, referred to, 6
Restaurants, first Parisian, 64, 66; excessive charges of Parisian, 140, 220, 342; Bignon, referred to, 219; American, 250; advantage of dining at, 339; Glatigny's sonnet on, 341; Bignon's, 341-343; Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, 258; a dinner at, in 1860, 297; English, 270, 275, 338. _Vide_ also "Cafés," and specific references
Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, 171
Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred to, 339
Richelieu (Cardinal de), 54, 302, 380; (Maréchal, Duc de), 303, 348
Riquette, referred to, 202
Ristori (Mme.), referred to, 220
Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, 120
Robert, referred to, 6, 69, 194, 201, 202
Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), 52, 115, 117, 118, 187, 221; a celebrated menu of, 140-142
Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, 150
Romans, luxury of the ancient, 25 _et seq._; meals of the ancient, 27
Ronsard, referred to, 52; quoted, 79
Roques (Joseph), 408
"Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), 102
Rubens, referred to, 6, 245
Ruffs and reeves, 335
Ruysdael, referred to, 6
Sack-posset, 96
St. Ange, gastronomic homily of, 378-382
Ste. Beuve, quoted, 381
Saint-Simon, quoted, 55
Salad, 362; virtues of, as defined by Savarin, 301, 411; virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, 411; its mission and place at the dinner, 418
Salads, remote use of, 10
Salmis. La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, 286
Sandpiper (Bartramian). _Vide_ "Plover" and "Papabotte"
Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, 304
Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, 12
Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, 334; a good, as defined by La Reynière, 345; anchovy, 345; (a good), its qualification, 349
Sauce tartare, a novel, 256
Sauces old English, 84; best for brook trout, 191; (Francatelli's), for mutton and game, 209, 368; (English), 277; merits of, 249, 345; Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, 277; bread, 289, 368; their relation to gastronomy, 345; Marquis de Cussy on, 346; mayonnaise, its history and etymology, 348-349, 421; à la Schönberg, 352; a list of, for the home cuisine, 352; apple, 368; à la Richelieu, 381
Saucier (the), 346
Sauerkraut, 371; when invented, 150; (French), not to be commended, 223
Sausages, the German the master-maker of, 152, 423; German species and varieties of, 163-166
Savarin, referred to, 75, 113, 114, 225, 305, 351, 370, 434, 443; denounced by M. de Courchamps, 158; as a gastronomer, 181, 206; his discourtesy to La Reynière, 195; poem of, 197; quoted, 300-302, 383, 395, 411. _Vide_ also "Physiologie du Goût (La)"
Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, 309
Seasonings, used by the ancients, 28-30; used by the English, 83, 108; importance of, 446
Seneca, quoted, 5, 31, 32, 41, 46; referred to, 40, 44
Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, 175, 200
Shakespeare, quoted, 246, 441
Shelley, referred to, 234
Shooting jaunt, a, 375 _et seq._
Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," 291
Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67
Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182
Smith (Rev. Sydney), his _mot_ on pâté de foie gras, 158; gastronomic anecdote of, 249; his _mot_ on the pheasant, 286; his poem on roast mutton, 290; on fanatics, 294; his poem on salad, 412
Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445
Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411
Société des Mereredis, 118, 129, 130
Solomon, his table, 11
Sora, or rail (the), 360
Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37
Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150; aux choux, 224; croûte-au-pot, 224, 275; Julienne, 281; first mention of, 281
"Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62
Soups, German, 167
Southey, referred to, 232
Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210
Spartan black broth, 13
Spätzle, 167
Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126
Speisekarte, a typical, 154
Spenser, quoted, 235; referred to, 238
Sport. _Vide_ chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
Stimulants, before dinner, 196
Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, 5; its offices, 267, 317, 319
Strawberries _vs._ gout, 143, 432
---- ---- ---- (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, 296-299
Sweetmeats, 379
Sweet potato, 256
Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, 89
Tables volantes, 62
Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, 69, 202
Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, 388
Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, 181-184; influence of smell on, 182
Teniers, referred to, 6, 445
Tennyson, referred to, 316
Thackeray, referred to, 159, 195, 387; as a gastronomer, 315, 329; quoted, 327, 340
Thomson, quoted, 238
Thoreau, on the mushroom, 402, 403
Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, 43; as an epicure, 44; his fondness for cucumbers, 425
Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, 293
Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, 283
Toasts, form of, among the ancients, 27
Tobacco, introduction of, 28
Total abstainer, anecdote of a, 265; abstinence, poem on, 295
Total abstainers _vs._ guests, 263-266; brandied peaches, 433
Trimalchio, dinner of, 35
Trout, brook, best sauce for, 181; of the English chalk-streams, 364; American _vs._ the European, 365
"Truffe (De la)," 394
"Truffe (La)," 390
Truffles, 143, 159, 210, 235, 434; species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature, and phenomena of. _Vide_ chapter "Two Esculents par excellence"
Turbot (the), 33
Turkey, a truffled, 122, 304, 385; history of the, 304, 305; wild, 369-370; wild _vs._ the domestic, 369, 370
Turtle feasts, American, 267
Ude, referred to, 6, 106, 190, 207
Uhland, referred to, 163, 166
Ulric (St.), festival of, 308
Urbain-Dubois, referred to, 199, 226
Van Mieris, referred to, 197
Vatel, referred to, 6, 54, 58, 130; on carving, 59
Vegetables, used by the ancients, 9, 10, 28, 29; poor cookery of, in Great Britain, 272; importance of good, 330
Verneuil (G. de), referred to, 130
Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, 221; on the restaurant, 339
Verres, referred to, 43
Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, 214
Vienna roll (the), origin of, 171
Vincent La Chapelle, 61
Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, 282
Virgil, referred to, 234
Vitellius, referred to, 43, 44
Vol-au-vent à la financière, 203; inventor of, 48
Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, 71
Vuillemot, referred to, 212, 213
Walker (Thos.), 106, 195, 319 _et seq._; as a gastronomer, 326
Walton (Isaac), referred to, 81
Ward (Artemus), his _mot_ on hasty pudding, 134; his _mot_ on pies, 437
Weenix, referred to, 234, 445
Wheat, original home of, 9
Wheatears, 335, 361
White (Gilbert), referred to, 243, 272; quoted, 360
Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, 328, 387
Whitefish (the), 45
Wines, of the ancients, 13, 17, 30, 40; of the ancient Romans, 30; in use in England, 96-98; difficulty of testing, 135; German, 168; of old Alsace, 159; brut champagne, 262, 431; importance of good, 262, 264, 265; champagne, 262, 270, 323, 337, 438; champagne, its virtues, 283, 379; their relation to the clergy, 282, 291, 293, 295, 309 _et seq._; "Est, Est, Est," history of, 310 _et seq._; importance of a sufficient variety, 322-323; their relation to game, 356, 372; to truffles and mushrooms, 394, 408; Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, 427; as a medium of hygiene, 444
Woman, jealousy of, 14; imitating man's excesses, 46; Talleyrand's precept regarding, 79; compared to peaches, 119; as gastronomers, 125, 343, 351; La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, 139; created for the selfish wishes of man, 174; her fondness for sweetmeats, 174, 429, 430, 433; Savarin's references to, 192; as an addition to a shooting-party, 192-193, 378; a French toast to, 283; as an adjunct to the dinner, 320; disadvantages of dining with, 338, 340; in the eighteenth century, 347; how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, 350, 429; a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, 351; Balzac's reference to, 351; the wise one defined, 351; _vs._ champagne, 379, 429; compared to mushrooms, 398; pretty one should mix a salad, 420; her relation to cookery, 429; a foil for man's mistakes, 431; as a garnish to an omelette, 432; her pet tipples in colonial times, 438, 439
Woodcock, 355, 359, 365, 366, 376
Wordsworth, referred to, 240
Yellowshank (the), 361
Yuan Mei, quoted, 6
FOOTNOTES:
[1] That the onion, garlic, and radish were held in particular esteem is attested by Herodotus, who says in his time (450 B.C.) there was an inscription on the Great Pyramid, stating that a sum amounting to sixteen hundred talents had been paid out for these three forms of food, which had been consumed by the workmen during the progress of its erection.
[2] The world has scarcely been as liberal to literature as to gastronomy; although the graceful French poet, the Abbé Philippe Desportes, who so celebrated his mistresses Diane, Hypolite and Cléonice in verse, was munificently rewarded for his lyrical talent by Henry III, and presented besides with an abbey worth an annual rental of ten thousand crowns for having written a sonnet which captivated the Duc de Joyeuse, brother-in-law of the king.
[3] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.
[4] Sir Theodore Martin's transl.
[5] Tobacco, unknown to the ancients, did not come into use among Asiatic and European peoples until the latter half of the sixteenth century, or a long period after the discovery of America--nearly all its species being of American origin. Its name, Nicotiana, was derived from that of John Nicot of Nismes, ambassador from the King of France to Portugal, who procured the first seeds from a Dutchman who had them from Florida.
[6] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.
[7] "My red wing gives me my name; but it is my tongue that is considered savory by epicures. What if my tongue had been able to sing?"--MARTIAL, Epigrams: "The Flamingo."
[8] The Duc de Montausier used to say, _Qu'a sa tenue de convive on reconnaissait un gentilhomme_.
[9] Les Delices de la Campagne. Suitte du Jardinier françois ov est enseigne a preparer pour l'vsage de la vie tout ce qui croist sur la Terre & dans les Eaux. Dedie avx dames Mesnageres. À Paris, chez Pierre Des-Hayes, 1654.
[10] The cause assigned to Vatel's death has been disputed, some having maintained it was not owing to the non-arrival of the fish, but because on cooking the fish they were found "not to be so fresh as they might be."
[11] Les Soupers de la Cour, ou l'art de travailler toutes sortes d'alimens. Pour servir les meilleures Tables, suivant les quatre Saisons. A Paris chez Guillyn, Libraire, 1755.
[12] L'Art du Cuisinier, par A. Beauvilliers, Ancien Officier de Monsieur, comte de Provence, Attaché aux Extraordinaires des Maisons Royales et actuellement Restaurateur, rue de Richelieu, No. 26 à la grande Taverne de Londres. A Paris, chez Pillet Ainé, 1814, 2 vols.
[13]
Défendez que personne, an milieu d'un banquet, Ne vous vienne donner un avis indiscret; Ecartez ce facheux qui vers vous s'achemine--Rien ne doit déranger l'honnête homme qui dîne.
[14] L'Art de dîner en ville à l'usage des gens de lettres, poème en iv chants. Seconde édition revue et corrigée. Paris, Delaunay; Colnet, 1810.
[15] Herrick, "Hesperides."
[16] The English housewife; containing the inward and outward Vertues which ought to be in a compleat Woman; as to her skill in Physicke, Cookery, Ordering of Great Feasts, etc., etc. London, 1631.
[17] Elizabeth Robins Pennell: "The Feasts of Autolycus."
[18] The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, which far Exceeds Every Thing of the Kind Ever yet Published. By a Lady. London: Printed for the Author; and sold at Mrs. Ashburn's, a China Shop, the Corner of Fleet Ditch.
[19] Almanach des Gourmands, Suivant de Guide Dans Les Moyens de faire excellente Chère; Par Un Viel Amateur. Troisième Edition. Revue, Corrigée et Considérablement Augmentée. A Paris. Chez Maradan, rue Pavés-Saint-André-des-Arcs, 1804, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808. Chez Joseph Chaumerot, Libraire, au Palais Royal, Galeries de Bois, 1810, 1812.
[20] Manuel des Amphitryons; contenant Un Trait de la Dissection des viandes à table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus nouveaux pour chacque saison, et des Elémens de la Politesse gourmande. Ouvrage indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère, et de la faire faire aux autres. Orné d'un grand nombre de Planches gravées en taille-douce. Par l'Auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands. A Paris, Chez Capelle et Renand, MDCCCVIII.
[21] "We shall never forget a dinner that eight of us had at M. Tailleur's, in which he made us drink forty bottles of his best wine of all kinds, and each service of which attested the competent master of the alimentary art."
L'ALMANACH, 4^{me} année, p. 152.
[22]
(In depths of Seidels tall we Germans find our power, As did in years agone our ancestors of yore; For in the noble barley-wine there lingers still a might divine.)
[23] L'Ancienne Alsace à Table. Etude Historique et Archéologique sur l'Alimentation, les Mœurs et les Usages Epulaires de l'ancienne Province d'Alsace: par Charles Gérard, Avocat à la Cour Impériale de Colmar. Colmar, Imprimerie et Lithographie de Camille Decker, 1862. Large 8vo, pp. 269.
[24] Diese Zahl bedeutet die ununterbrochenen Dienstjahre der betr. Kellnerin.
[25] It should be distinctly stated that the rendition is by the late Rev. Francis Mahony (_requiescat in pace!_). Recalling his scathing stricture on "The Rogueries of Tom Moore," one were unwise not to mention the name of the scholarly paraphrast and poet, for fear that he might arise to wreak summary vengeance. But inasmuch as no authorship is assigned to the poem by the versatile bard, and as one must be on guard most of the time against the subtile spirit of fun and malice which pervades his pages, it is probable that both the French song and the rendition are by the same accomplished hand.
[26]
"Es lohnet mir heute Mit doppelter Beute Ein gutes Geschick; Der redliche Diener Bringt Hasen und Hühner Zur Küche zurück; Hier find ich gefangen, Auch Vogel noch hangen. Es lebe der Jäger, Es lebe sein Glück!"
[27] The reader who is interested in pastoral luncheons and all their possibilities should compare the "Halts of a Shooting Party" with the chapter entitled "Des Parties de Campagne Gourmandes" in the fourth volume of the "Almanach des Gourmands."
[28] "Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, par Alexandre Dumas. Paris, Alphonse Lemerre, Editeur, Passage Choiseul, 1873."
[29] "Propos d'Art et de Cuisine."
[30] Rev. Joseph A. Ely's transl.
[31] "Le Gastronome Français" (1828). G. D. L. R., "De La Truffe."