Part 32

Gaubert. HYGIÈNE DE LA DIGESTION. Suivi d'un nouveau dictionnaire des alimens par le Dr. Paul Gaubert, de la Légion d'Honneur, etc. Paris, 1845. (8vo) pp. 552.

Porte (Dr. J. P. A. de la). HYGIÈNE DE LA TABLE. Traité du choix des aliments dans leurs rapports avec la santé. Paris: F. Savy, 1870. (Large 8vo) pp. 516.

La Reynière (Grimod de). JOURNAL DES GOURMANDS ET DES BELLES; OU, L'EPICURIEN FRANÇAIS. Rédigé par l'auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands, etc. Paris: Capelle et Renaud, 1806.

Loire (Louis). LES JOYEUX PROPOS DE TABLE. Anecdotes--bons mots--traits plaisants--boutades entremêlées de curieuses recettes culinaires recueillis par Louis Loire. Paris: E. Dentu, 1879. (18mo) pp. 216.

Gouffé (Jules). LE LIVRE DE CUISINE. Par Jules Gouffé, ancien officier de bouche du Jockey Club de Paris, comprenant la Cuisine de Ménage et la grande Cuisine. Cinquième édition. Paris: Hachette et C^{ie}, 1881. (Tall 8vo) pp. 864. Do. Hachette et C^{ie}, 1902. pp. 760.

Gouffé (Jules). LE LIVRE DE PÂTISSERIE. Paris: Hachette et C^{ie}, 1873. (Tall 8vo) pp. 506.

Seignobos (Mme.). LE LIVRE DES PETITS MÉNAGES. Ouvrage contenant 206 gravures. Paris, Hachette, 1894. (12mo) pp. 474.

Taillevent (Guillaume Tirel). LE LIVRE DE TAILLEVENT, GRAND CUISINIER DE FRANCE. Suivi du livre de honneste volupté, contenant la manière d'habiller toute sorte de viandes--le tout revue nouvellement. Lyon: pour Pierre Rigaud, 1602. (l6mo.)

Fournier (Edouard). LIVRE D'OR DES MÉTIERS. Histoire des hôtelleries, cabarets, hôtels garnis, restaurants et cafés et des anciennes communautés et confréries d'hôteliers, des marchands de vins, de restaurateurs, de limonadiers, etc., etc. Paris, 1851. 2 vols. (8vo), pp. 348, 410.

Najac (Emile de). MADAME EST SERVIE. Paris: E. Dentu, 1874. (18mo) pp. 284.

Carême (A.). LE MAÎTRE-D'HÔTEL FRANÇAIS; OU, PARALLÈLE DE LA CUISINE ANCIENNE ET MODERNE, ETC., ETC. Paris: Firmin-Didot, 1822. 2 vols. (8vo).

MANUEL DE LA CUISINIÈRE PROVENÇALE. Contenant la Préparation et la Conservation des Aliments particuliers à la Provence; suivi de la Cuisine bourgeoise. Marseille: Chauffard, 1858. (12mo) pp. 276.

MANUEL (LE) DE LA FRIANDISE; OU, LES TALENTS DE MA CUISINIÈRE ISABEAU MIS EN LUMIÈRE. Contenant l'Art de faire soi-même une excellente Cuisine, et de manger de bons morceaux sans faire trop dépense, etc. Par l'Auteur du petit cuisinier économe. A Paris, chez Janet, 1796. (18mo) pp. xxxviii, 264.

Martin (Alexandre). MANUEL DE L'AMATEUR DE MELONS; OU, L'ART DE RECONNAÎTRE ET D'ACHETER DE BONS MELONS. Précédé d'une histoire de ce fruit, avec un traité sur sa culture, etc. Paris: Aug. Udron, 1827. (18mo) pp. 156.

Martin (Alexandre). MANUEL DE L'AMATEUR DES TRUFFES; OU, L'ART D'OBTENIR DES TRUFFES. Au moyen des plants artificiels, dans les parcs, bosquets, jardins, etc., etc., précédé d'une histoire de la truffe et d'anecdotes gourmandes, et suivi d'un traité sur la culture des champignons. Seconde édition. Paris: Leroi; Audin, 1829 (18mo) pp. xii, 143.

La Reynière (Grimod de). MANUEL DES AMPHITRYONS. Contenant un Traité de la Dissection des Viandes à Table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus Nouveaux pour chacque Saison, et des Elemens de Politesse Gourmande. Ouvrage indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère, et de la faire faire aux autres. Orné d'un grand nombre de planches gravées en taille-douce. A Paris, chez Capelle et Renand, 1808. (8vo) pp. 384.

Cardelli (M.). MANUEL DES GOURMANDS; OU, L'ART DE FAIRE LES HONNEURS DE SA TABLE. Paris: Librairie Roret. s. d. (18mo).

Courchamps (Maurice Cousin, Comte de). NÉO-PHYSIOLOGIE DU GOÛT PAR ORDRE ALPHABÉTIQUE; OU, DICTIONNAIRE GÉNÉRAL DE LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE ANCIENNE ET MODERNE, ETC., ETC. Enrichi de plusieurs menus, prescriptions culinaires, et autres opuscules inédits de M. de la Reynière, auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands; suivi d'une collection générale des menus français depuis le douzième siècle. Paris, 1839. (8vo) pp. 635. (Dumas' favourite work on cookery.)

Périgord (A. B. de). NOUVEL ALMANACH DES GOURMANDS. Paris: Bandouin Frères, 1825. (8vo) pp. xxiv, 224.

Cardelli (M.). NOUVEL MANUEL COMPLET DU CUISINIER ET DE LA CUISINIÈRE À L'USAGE DE LA VILLE ET DE LA CAMPAGNE. Nouvelle Edition. Paris: Librairie Roret, 1818. (18mo) pp. 472.

Briffault (Eugène). PARIS À TABLE. Illustré par Bertall. Paris: J. Hetzel, 1846. (8vo) pp. 184.

PASTISSIER (LE) FRANÇOIS. Où est enseigné la manière de faire toute sorte de Pastisserie, très-utile à toutes sortes de personnes. A Amsterdam, chez Louys et Daniel Elzevier, 1654. (12mo) pp. 252.

Carême (A.). LE PÂTISSIER PITTORESQUE, ETC., ETC. Nouvelle édition. Paris, au Dépôt de la Librairie, 1854. (8vo) pp. 56.

Carême (A.). LE PÂTISSIER ROYAL PARISIEN; OU, TRAITÉ ELÉMENTAIRE ET PRATIQUE DE LA PATISSERIE ANCIENNE ET MODERNE, ETC., ETC. Paris: J. G. Dentu, 1815. 2 vols. (8vo), pp. 482, 447.

Brisse (Baron). LA PETITE CUISINE. 3^{ème} Edition. Paris: E. Donnaud, 1875. (18mo) pp. 429.

Geair (Mlle. J.). LA PETITE CUISINIÈRE BOURGEOISE, AVEC RENSEIGNEMENTS UTILES AUX FAMILLES. Par Mlle. Julie Geair, professeur. Paris, impr. Barnagaud, 1889. (16mo) pp. 738.

Brillat-Savarin. PHYSIOLOGIE DU GOÛT; OU, MÉDITATIONS DE GASTRONOMIE TRANSCENDANTE. Ouvrage théorique, historique et à l'ordre du jour, dédié aux gastronomes parisiens, par un professeur, membre de plusieurs sociétés littéraires et savantes. Paris: A. Sautelet et C^{ie}, 1826. 2 vols. (8vo), pp. 390, 422. (First edition of the "Physiologie.")

Delveau (Alfred). LES PLAISIRS DE PARIS. Guide pratique et illustré. Paris: Achille Faure, 1867. (16mo) pp. 299.

PROMENADE GASTRONOMIQUE DANS PARIS. Présentant un tableau fidèle, anecdotique et comique des faits et gestes des cuisiniers et cuisinières de tous les étages, ainsi que des traiteurs, restaurateurs, consommateurs, etc. Par un Amateur. Paris: Librairie Orientale de Dondey-Dupré, 1833. (18mo) pp. 171.

Reiber (Emile). LES PROPOS DE TABLE DE LA VIEILLE ALSACE. Illustrés tout au long de Dessins originaux des anciens Maîtres alsaciens. Paris: chez Launette, 1886. (4to) pp. xvi, 231.

Rouvière. QUELQUES CONSEILS SUR L'HYGIÈNE DU CUISINIER. Par F. Rouvière, restaurateur. Bordeaux, impr. J. Durand, 1886. (18mo) pp. 108.

Chavette (Eugène). RESTAURATEURS ET RESTAURÉS. Dessins par Cham. Paris: A. Le Chevalier, 1867. (16mo) pp. 126.

Cauderlier. LA SANTÉ PAR LES ALIMENTS. Pour vivre de 50 à 80 ans et plus. Gand: Imprimerie de Léon de Busscher, 1882. (8vo) pp. 304.

Gogué. LES SECRETS DE LA CUISINE FRANÇAISE. Par A. Gogué, ancien chef des cuisines du Comte Ducayla, de Lord Melville, etc. Ouvrage illustré de 45 gravures sur bois par Rouyer. Paris, Librairie Hachette, 1856. (12mo) pp. 438.

LES SOUPERS DE LA COUR; OU, L'ART DE TRAVAILLER TOUTES SORTES D'ALIMENS POUR SERVIR LES MEILLEURS TABLES, SUIVANT LES QUATRE SAISONS. A Paris, chez Guillyn, 1755. 4 vols. (12mo).

Staffe (B^{onne}). TRADITIONS CULINAIRES ET L'ART DE MANGER TOUTES CHOSES À TABLE. Paris, Havard, 1896. (12mo) pp. 400.

Bontou. TRAITÉ DE CUISINE BOURGEOISE BORDELAISE. Bordeaux: Feret et Fils, 1898. (12mo) pp. 682.

Ferry de la Bellone (De). LA TRUFFE: ETUDE SUR LES TRUFFES ET LES TRUFFIÈRES. Paris: J. B. Baillière et Fils, 1888. (16mo.)

Chatillon-Plessis. LA VIE À TABLE À LA FIN DU XIX^C. SIÈCLE. Theorie pratique et historique de Gastronomie moderne, etc. Paris: Librairie de Firmin-Didot et C^{ie}, 1894. (8vo) pp. 411.

Franklin (Alfred). LA VIE PRIVÉE D'AUTREFOIS ...LES REPAS. Paris: Plon, Nourrit et C^{ie}, 1887. (18mo) pp. 300.

INDEX

"Accomplish'd Cook (The)," Robert May's, 99

Ahasuerus (King), feast of, 12

Aigrefeuille (M. d'), as an epicure, 69, 70, 129

Aldergrove (John), on game, 354

"Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 70; referred to, 73, 112 _et seq._, 157, 184, 233, 336; its purpose, 132; aphorisms of, 138-139. _Vide_ also "G. de la Reynière"

"Almanach Gourmand (L')," referred to, 225

"Almanach Gourmand (Le Double)," quoted, 258

Alsace, excellence of its cooks, 149

"Ancienne Alsace à Table (L')," 148-150

Angelica, 434

Anne (Queen), as a gourmande, 102

"Apician Morsels," a piratical volume, 336

Apicius, as a cook, 29; referred to, 40, 41, 50, 200

Apios tuberosa, or ground-nut, 255

Appetites (great), anecdote of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214; anecdote of a Swiss guard, 218; anecdote of a French drummer, 218; anecdote of an English chaplain, 288

Archestratus, his lost poem on gastronomy, 13

"Art Culinaire (L')," 121, 347, 408

"Art de Diner en Ville (L')," 76

"Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième Siècle (L')," 206

"Art du Cuisinier (L')," 71-72

Arthus (Désiré), on old tavern-signs, 68

"Art of Cookery (The)," Mrs. Glasse's, 107-111, 316

"Art of Cookery (King's)," quoted, 93, 344

"Art of Dining (The)," Thos. Walker's, 319; Abraham Hayward's, 331 _et seq._

Arts (the) and their masters, 131

Athenæus, quoted, 8, 13, 16, 18, 21-23

Attendance, importance of perfect, 321

Audubon, on game, 362, 363, 370

Autumn, glories of, 373 _et seq._, 398

"Avalanche" (the), of Carême, 200

Azincourt (Albouis), referred to, 130

Baba, its history and virtues, 434

Babiroussa (the), anecdote of, 212

Bakers, the art of the German, 146, 171

Baking, an ancient form of cooking, 10

Balzac, quoted, 5, 351; referred to, 177; as a gastronomer, 219

Banquets, early English, 90, 91

Banville (Théodore de), quoted, 227; referred to, 341, 445

Baron Brisse, quoted, 32, 180, 344, 371, 405, 417; as a gastronomer, 227-228; his splendid gastronomic axiom, 228

Barras (Vicomte de), dinner of, 65

Baryé, referred to, 246

Basting, importance of, 228

Baudelaire (Charles), referred to, 445

Beauvilliers, referred to, 6, 69, 70, 199, 202, 213, 386, 435; quoted, 71, 110, 234, 442

Béchamel, referred to, 54-55

Beecher (Rev. Henry Ward), on pies, 436

Beef, baron of, a royal dish, 92; sirloin of, its origin, 99

Beer, quotation in praise of, 145

Beer-gardens, German, 151 _et seq._

Beers, of Germany, 163-164, 168

Bellone (Dr. de la), on the truffle, 390, 395

Bénédictine, liqueur of, its history, 283-284

Béranger, poem on the restaurant, 140

Berchoux, referred to, 58, 72, 184; his poem on gastronomy, 73 _et seq._, 385

Bernard (Gentil), referred to, 73

Bertinazzi (Carlin), referred to, 129

Beverages, importance of, 4; their relation to national cookery, 151-152, 163-164

Bignon, anecdotes of, 342-343

Bishop (a) of Burgundy, anecdote of, 304

Blaze de Bury, on women, 433

Blot (Pierre), 435

Boar, the wild, 26, 39, 234, 236, 243, 246-247, 366

Boar's-head, carols on the, 91, 93

Boileau, axiom on punctuality, 269

Boiling, a primitive method of cooking, 11

"Boke of Keruynge," quoted, 85-87

"Boke of Nurture," quoted, 84-85

Bonaparte, Napoleon, as a gastronomer, 76

Bonnechose (Cardinal), his famous _mot_, 284

Bossuet, his "Oraison Funèbre" referred to, 232

Bramble (Mathew), referred to, 324

Bratwurst-Glöcklein, 163

Breadstuffs, the first, 7; used by the early English, 83

Breckenridge (Vice-Pres.), anecdote of, 253-255

Brontë (Charlotte), on the curate's dinner, 288

Brouwer (Adrian), referred to, 445

Browne (Wm.), sonnet on the mushroom, 400

Bryant, "Lines to a Waterfowl," 292

Bubble and Squeak, 278

Buckland (Frank), referred to, 243

Buffon, anecdote of, 385

Bulwer, on the fox, 161

Cæsar, his prodigal feasts, 44

Café (_vide_ also "Restaurant,") Véry, referred to, 6, 52, 213, 220, 258; Voisin, referred to, 52; Hardy, referred to, 52, 69, 220; Riche, referred to, 52, 220, 250; Véfour, referred to, 213, 258; de Paris, referred to, 214, 219, 220, 221, 222, 258; its great vogue in the '40's, 219; Anglais, referred to, 220, 258; Philippe, referred to, 258

Caligula, referred to, 43

Cambacérès, as a gastronomer, 69, 205; referred to, 195

Camerani (M.), referred to, 129

Capon (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306

Caraway-seed, abuse of, in Germany, 169

Carême, referred to, 13, 70, 194, 199-207, 211, 223, 229, 348-349, 350, 385, 408, 443; eulogy of, 207

Carp (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306, 308

Carver, Vatel's definition of a, 60

Carving, importance of, 87, 138; a novel monastic method of, 307

"Castle of Indolence (The)," quoted, 238

Cèpes. _Vide_ "Mushrooms"

Charles II, as an epicure, 99

Châteauroux (Duchesse de), 63

Chatillon-Plessis, gastronomical axiom of, 265

Cheese, Martin Schookius' book on, 146; German varieties of, 167; its proper place at dinner, 263; its place and mission at dinner, 440

Child (Theodore), as a false dietetic mentor, 417

Civet of hare, 51

Claré, 96

Claudius, his great dining-room, 43

Clergy (the), elaborate banquets given by, 90; table excesses of, in old Alsace, 149. _Vide_ also individual references

Climate _vs._ alimentation, 168, 270, 334

Clough (Arthur Hugh), poem on "The Dinner," 336

"Cobbe's Prophecies," quoted, 80

Cocktail, physiology of the, 196

Coffee, remote use of, 9

Colbert, referred to, 55

"Compleat Housewife (The)," Mrs. E. Smith's, 98, 106, 109

"Compleat Practical Cook (The)," Charles Carter's, 103

Compots, 157, 174, 432

Condé (Prince de), referred to, 54, 58, 60

Contades (Maréchal de), referred to, 159

Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, 51-52; Berchoux's reference to a, 74; importance of a good, 113; attributes necessary for a good, 203, 207; anecdote of a new, 259; anecdote of a, 393

Cook-book, the ideal, defined, 442-446

Cook-books, early Italian, 49; early Spanish, 50; early French, 52; early English, 81 _et seq._, 317; 17th-century English, 93 _et seq._; old German, 147-148, 150; modern (_vide_ specific references), written by the clergy, 281

Cookery, its relation to life and health, 3, 70, 71, 251, 257-258, 286, 430; modern progress in, 4; _vs._ matrimony, 6; Italian school of, 6, 49, 51, 195; compared to painting, 6, 203; in Biblical times, 7, 8, 9; of the ancient Persians, 11, 12; of the ancient Greeks, 13 _et seq._; of the ancient Sicilians, 14; of the ancient Romans, 24 _et seq._; period of its greatest distinction in Rome, 25; decline of ancient, 48; _vs._ literature and art, 48; the renaissance of, 49 _et seq._; of Spain, 50,423; its relation to the mind, 64, 176; _vs._ diplomacy, 70; home _vs._ the haute-cuisine, 72, 350, 429; cry of its decadence, 79, 258; Parisian school of, in England, 99; of the English rural classes, 101, 102; modern English, 111, 269 _et seq._; importance of good writers on, 113, 199; period of its greatest distinction in France, 116; complementary to national beverages, 151, 153; excellence of German, 156, 174; Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, 201; of America, 249 _et seq._; of the modern French, 259 (_vide_ also special references); its relation to the church, 280 _et seq._; a difficult art, 442. _Vide_ also "Gastronomy"

Cooking-schools, 251, 260

Cooks, jealousy of, 14, 202; regulating the health of, 136

"Cook's Oracle (The)," 316 _et seq._

Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, 62

Cucumber, remote use of, 9; its virtues, 425

Cuisine, the ideal, defined, 258

Cuisine classique (the), 200

"Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, 203; referred to, 206, 349

Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, 192

Curé, anecdote of a, 293

Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, 67, 127, 211, 213, 225, 305; quoted, 120, 181, 201, 346, 383, 408

Cuyp, referred to, 6, 203, 245

Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, 337-339

De Candolle, referred to, 256

Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, 144

Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, 112

"Délices de la Campagne (Les)," 59

Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, 71

De Quincey on midday dining, 146

"De re Culinaria," 29, 41, 50

Désaugiers, poem on women, 119

Dessert, its mission defined, 430; etymology of the term, 438

Dickens (Charles), on dining, 329

Dinner, hours of, 83; a good one, a simple one, 116, 320, 322, 324; punctuality at, 126, 269, 291, 318, 319; a wineless, 127, 263-266, 294, 295; inhuman hours of, 145-146, 150; its true hygienic hour, 146, 268, 269; Savarin's definition of a perfect, 190; Carême's classic, at the Baron Rothschild's villa, 200; Dumas' definition of a good, 213; of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214; the Sunday engorgement, 266; evils of the "theatre", 267; a good, as defined by an eminent Baptist ecclesiast, 299; by the Ettrick Shepherd, 309; by Thackeray, 315; by Kitchener, 318; by the Earl of Dudley, 320; French definition of a perfect, 320; importance of variety in the bill of fare, 329; the graceful liar as an adjunct to, 331; Arthur Hugh Clough's poem on the, 336

Dinners, poor "company," 126, 261, 321, 329; ministerial, 195; similarity of, 195, 325, 328; false etiquette of, 331

"Dinners and Diners," 337-339

Dish, the first recorded, 7

Dishes, new, 72, 353, 380; testing of, 135; Hungarian, 167; abuse of certain, 261

Dom Gobelot, anecdote of, 310

Domitian, referred to, 43

Dom Pérignon, the inventor of champagne, 283

Don Quixote, referred to, 50

"Double Almanach Gourmand (Le)," referred to, 340

Douw (Gérard), referred to, 197

Drayton (Michael), quoted, 360

Dreams, viands provocative of, 197

Drinking-Cups, of the ancients, 31

Du Barry (Mme.), a supper of, 62

Dubufe, referred to, 234

Duck, wild, the art of carving a, 87; "When Father carves the" (poem), 87; canvasback, 249, 369; canvasback, Rev. Joseph Barber's poem on, 292; wild, 359, 366, 369

Dumas (Alexandre), quoted, 5, 49, 56, 206, 213, 214, 224, 225, 383; referred to, 131, 149, 211-225, 321; as a cook, 211; as a gastronomer, 221; anecdote of, as a chef, 222, 223

Dumas fils (Alexandre), referred to, 5

Dumonteil (Fulbert), his saying about truffles, 10

Eating, evils of irregular, 267

Egyptians, table appointments of, 10

Elephant, proper sauce to eat one with, 345

Ely (Rev. Joseph A.), translation of poem on the pig, 232

Emerson, his _mot_ on pies, 437

Emetics, use of, among the ancients, 15

English, meals of the early, 82; not appreciative of fine cooking, 210, 274

"Englishman in Paris (An)," quoted, 222

Epicure, definition of an, 128, 131

"Epicurean (The)," referred to, 353

Epicurus, his maxims, 15

Evelyn (John), on salads, 411

Exercise, virtues of, 75, 378

"Faerie Queene (The)," quoted, 235

Fairy-rings. _Vide_ "Mushrooms"

Fayot (M.), quoted, 3, 5; referred to, 321

"Feasts of Autolycus (The)," quoted, 343

Fête champêtre. _Vide_ "A shooting jaunt"

Fieldfare, 361

Fig-pecker (the), 44, 192, 361

Fish, fondness of the old Latins for, 26; days in Elizabeth's era, 90, 308; omelettes and pâtés of, 149; variety and superiority of American, 251; its complementary wine, 309; proper cookery of, 368

Flamingo (the), as a table bird, 44

Fletcher (John), quoted, 96

Flint cracker, origin of the, 263

Fouquet, referred to, 54, 55, 58

Francatelli, referred to, 6, 106, 199, 208, 226, 350

France (Anatole), his _mot_ on the pâté de Chartres, 434

Frederick the Great, his poem to his cook, 146

Frog (the), his first leap into the frying-pan, 150

Fruit, after dinner, 267

Fruits, the first cultivated, 9; glass-grown in England, 273; superiority of those of western New York, 274

Frying, theory of, 179

Fuger (Bishop), anecdote of, 310 _et seq._

Game, Savarin's references to, 192, 193, 197; Anthony Hayward on its cookery, 333; preservation and protection of, 357-358; definition of the term, 358; effect of food upon flavour of, 359-360, 362-363, 370; proper wines to accompany, 372; species, haunts, pursuit, protection, value, and cookery of, _Vide_ chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"

Garum, of the ancients, 46

Gastaldy (Dr.), anecdote of, 120; as an epicure, 130

Gastronomer, the ideal, defined, 442-446

Gastronomic tests, Savarin's illustration of, 190

Gastronomy, Archestratus' lost poem on, 13; Berchoux's poem on, 73-76, 184; as defined by M. de Borose, 81; as defined by La Reynière, 128; French _vs._ German, 145, 151, 152; finesse of its ethics, 157-158; one of the most important arts, 176; as defined by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," 184; as defined by Savarin, 184; cry of its decadence, 194; its mainspring the pig, 229 _et seq._; as promoted by the religious orders, 285 _et seq._, 335; in relation to sauces, 345; St. Ange's disquisition on, 378-381; in relation to sport, 354, 356, 445. _Vide_ also "Cookery," "Dinners," and individual references

Gavarni, his _mot_ on the mushroom, 407

Gemüthlichkeit, of the Germans, 153, 174

Gérard (Charles), referred to, 148-150

Gerarde, quoted, 256, 400, 411

Gibson (W. Hamilton), 406, 407

Glacer à la flamme, 203

Glatigny (Albert), quoted, 63, 341

Gluttony, as defined by woman, 343

Goethe, referred to, 147, 430; poem on game, 169

Goldsmith (Oliver), quoted, 108

Gonthier (Johann), referred to, 52

Good-will, a sportsman's waste of, 381

Goose (the), merits of, in Germany, 156; in Strassburg and Alsace, 159-161; and applesauce, 244

"Goret (La Mort du)," poem, 232

Gouffé (Jules), referred to, 199, 225-226, 227, 229, 445

Gourmand, La Reynière's definition of a, 127-128

Gourmandise, as defined by Savarin, 186; _vs._ beauty, 187; Gérard (Charles), quoted, 199

Gout, 143, 270, 346, 444; prevalence of, among the ancients, 46; prevalence of in England, 96, 102; _vs._ pâté de foie gras, 162

Grace before meat, 291, 297

Graces, the three spirituous, 196

"Grad' aus dem Wirthshaus," German convivial song, 173

"Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine," 211 _et seq._

Greeks, meals of the ancient, 19; gluttony of the ancient, 23

Greeley (Horace), anecdote of, 239

Grog, origin of the word, 97

Grouse, ruffed, 356, 359, 364, 366, 370, 375, 376, 411; pinnated, or prairie-chicken, 363, 365

Hafiz, quoted, 423

Hagenmark, 432

Hamerton, referred to, 243

"Hare, first catch your," origin of the term, 110

Harvest-home, poem on the celebration of, 101

Hasenbraten and Hasenpfeffer, 168

Hayward (Abraham), referred to, 331 _et seq._

Hayward (Anthony), on a chaplain's appetite, 288

Heidelberg, a dinner at the Wolfsbrunnen, 152

Heliogabalus, gluttony of his reign, 46-48; inventor of vol-au-vent à la financière, 48

Henry VIII, his fondness for sweets, 430

Herodotus, quoted, 10

Herrick, quoted, 79, 102

Herring, the "marinirte," 167

Hertford (Lord), anecdote of, 333

Hervilly (Ernest d'), referred to, 233

Hippocras, 57, 93, 94, 96

Hirztag, a strange custom of that festival, 150

Hollar, quoted, 358

Homer, quoted, 20

Hone (Wm.), poem on mince-pie, 435

Hood (Thomas), referred to, 316

Horace, quoted, 11, 26, 39, 40, 113, 398; referred to, 38, 39; his fondness for sweets, 428-429

Host, a delicate, as defined by La Reynière, 139; _vs._ guest, Baron Brisse's aphorism on, 228; his duty to his guests, 264-265, 330-331

Housewife, troubles of the, 260

Hugo (Victor), referred to, 341

Hunt (Leigh), on pig-driving, 239

Ice-cream, discoverer of, 434

Indian summer, poem on, 373

Indigestion, La Reynière on the causes of, 133

Ingoldsby (Thomas), referred to, 289; quoted, 280, 291, 306, 438

Jacque (Charles), referred to, 233, 245

Janin (Jules), referred to, 5, 211, 213, 348, 445

Jefferies (Richard), on feasting the chapel-pastor, 287

Johnson (Dr.), quoted, 111, 248

Jordaens, referred to, 6