The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World

Part 48

Chapter 482,265 wordsPublic domain

_Page_ 16, _line_ 19, _for_ which great and the, _read_ which the great and glorious. _P._ 19, _l._ 16, _for_ Picardy to make bread, _read_ in Picardy. To make bread. _P._ 19, _l._ 16, _for_ of leaven and, _read_ of leaven is required, and. _P._ 26, _l._ 6, _for_ Flamine, _read_ Flamen. _P._ 26, _l._ 25, _for_ leaves _read_ loaves. _P._ 27, _l._ 20, _for_ Cabire _read_ Cabira. _P._ 28, _l._ 28, _for_ hand-mill; by the Britons, _read_ hand-mill, by the Britons. _P._ 32, _l._ 11, _for_ Megalarte and Megalomar, _read_ Megalartus and Megalomazus. _P._ 33, _l._ 2, _for_ escarites, _read_ escharites. _P._ 33, _l._ 7, _for_ melitutes, _read_ melitates. _P._ 37, _l._ 8, _for_ Septier, _read_ Setier. _P._ 50, _l._ 25, _for_ Ciens cheris, _read_ lieux cheris. _P._ 63, _l._ 28, _for_ chrysolacanon, _read_ chrysolachanon. _P._ 65, _l._ 34, _for_ has, _read_ have. _P._ 67, _l._ 20, _for_ Amitermes, _read_ Amiternum. _P._ 68, _l._ 18, _for_ possessed, _read_ possesses. _P._ 79, _l._ 11, _for_ Algidea, _read_ Algidus. _P._ 84, _l._ 25, _for_ dressed it in, _read_ dressed in. _P._ 93, _l._ 32, _for_ Corcyrus, _read_ Corcyra. _P._ 98, _l._ 15, _for_ Halmade, _read_ Halmades. _P._ 99, _l._ 26, _for_ Venafra, _read_ Venafrum. _P._ 100, _l._ 31, _for_ sechar, _read_ schecar. _P._ 103, _l._ 11, _for_ Cæcilian, _read_ Cecilian. _P._ 106, _l._ 18, _for_ fruit of, _read_ fruit, the. _P._ 124, _l._ 31, _for_ Hyberbius, _read_ Hyperbius. _P._ 125, _l._ 2, _for_ Erichtonius, _read_ Erichthonius. _P._ 129, _l._ 1, _for_ curators, _read_ curator. _P._ 129, _l._ 25, _for_ life, _read_ life, the. _P._ 136, _l._ 16, _for_ Chalies, _read_ Chalcis. _P._ 139, _l._ 38, _for_ à la Bœotienne _read_ à la Béotienne. _P._ 143, _l._ 15, _for_ Thasos, _read_ Thasus. _P._ 149, _l._ 2, _for_ Mœlos, _read_ Melos. _P._ 153, _l._ 2, _for_ Carniphobis, _read_ Carniphobus. _P._ 150, _l._ 25, _for_ Scipio, Metellus, and, _read_ Scipio Metellus and. _P._ 170, _l._ 26, _for_ philosopher, _read_ philologist. _P._ 171, _l._ 17, _for_ bouturos, _read_ bouturon. _P._ 176, _l._ 7, _for_ consort of Nero, _read_ consort of Augustus. _P._ 189, _l._ 5, _for_ consectuive, _read_ consecutive. _P._ 203, _l._ 23, _for_ Marmot, _read_ Marmol. _P._ 213, _l._ 9, _for_ scare, _read_ scar. _P._ 216, _l._ 9, et passim, _for_ accipenser, _read_ acipenser. _P._ 225, _l._ 8, _for_ Pachynum, _read_ Pachynus. _P._ 296, _l._ 13, _for_ Sicyona, _read_ Sicyon. _P._ 230, _l._ 23, _for_ pèsant, _read_ pèsent. _P._ 235, _l._ 21, _for_ of Scyathus, _read_ of Sciathos. _P._ 236, _l._ 29, _for_ the Mostella, _read_ the Mosella. _P._ 237, _l._ 17, _for_ the Bulistes, _read_ the Balistes. _P._ 238, _l._ 2, _for_ of Phaleres, _read_ of Phalera. _P._ 242, _l._ 9, _for_ of Polareo, _read_ of Pelorus. _P._ 247, _l._ 6, _for_ Minturnus, _read_ Minturnæ. _P._ 250, _l._ 12, _for_ a hook, _read_ to hook. _P._ 251, _l._ 24, _for_ Pandarea, _read_ Pandarus. _P._ 253, _l._ 12, _for_ the act of eating, _read_ the art of eating. _P._ 378, _l._ 3, _for_ Cnide, _read_ Cnidus. _P._ 270, _l._ 12, _for_ Acarnidea, Alopecomesia, _read_ Acarne, Alopeconnesus. _P._ 291, _l._ 26, _for_ eleven hundred, _read_ eleven. _P._ 293, _l._ 25, _for_ he prayed it might be, _read_ he prayed that the Tiber might be. _P._ 309, _l._ 27, _for_ Simon introduced Pauli, _read_ Simon Pauli introduced. _P._ 317, _l._ 25, _for_ we have spoken, _read_ we will soon speak. _P._ 323, _l._ 1, _for_ Helbon, _read_ Hebron. _P._ 325, _l._ 39, _for_ Plate III., _read_ Plate I. _P._ 366, _l._ 30, _for_ minutalim, _read_ minutatim. _P._ 378, _l._ 15 and 36, _for_ Procillatores, _read_ Procillator.

DESCRIPTION OF PLATE No. XXVI. A, PAGE 365.

No. 1. Terra-Cotta Drinking-Vase, in the shape of a Bird.

No. 2. Drinking-Vase in the shape of a Tea-pot.

No. 3. Drinking-Cup, with Jupiter’s Head.

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* * * * *

WORKS BY A. SOYER.

_Lately Published, the Eighth Edition, Handsomely Bound, Price 15s._,

THE

Gastronomic Regenerator:

A

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SYSTEM OF COOKERY,

WITH NEARLY

TWO THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECIPES,

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AND CORRECT AND MINUTE PLANS HOW KITCHENS OF EVERY SIZE, FROM THE KITCHEN OF A ROYAL PALACE TO THAT OF THE HUMBLE COTTAGE, ARE TO BE CONSTRUCTED AND FURNISHED.

BY A. SOYER.

LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT: AND SOLD BY JOHN OLLIVIER, PALL-MALL. 1853.

_For Criticisms see the Public Press in 1846._

* * * * *

The Gastronomic Regenerator

TRANSLATION FROM THE FRENCH OF A CULINARY DIALOGUE BETWEEN LORD M. H. AND A. SOYER.--_From the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” p. 611._

S.--You are perfectly right, my Lord, the title of “Gourmet” belongs only to him who eats with art, science, and care, and even with great care.

LORD M.--The “Gourmand” is never entitled to the name of “Gourmet;” the one eats without tasting, whilst the other tastes in eating.

S.--The proud and haughty man, my Lord, orders his dinner from necessity; the man of the world--the profound epicure--orders his with delight.

LORD R.--It is quite certain that too much attention cannot be given to the proper execution of, and the intelligence displayed in, the order of a dinner. The dinner--being of each day, each season, each century--is not only an hereditary fashion, but also the soul of sociability; read history, and you will perceive that, in all times, amongst all people, the good which has been done--and sometimes the evil--was always preceded or followed by a banquet.

S.--Nothing is more true, my Lord. Of all the pleasures which are bestowed upon us in this world, that of the table is the only one which, when the reins of the car of life become slack, parts from us with regret, and often, as a faithful friend, leaves us but at the brink of the tomb; whilst all other pleasures disappear gradually, like the fading of a beautiful autumn, and cover our heads with the hoary locks of winter.

LORD M.--It is positive that the gift of degustation belongs to all ages of life,--a centenarian whom I knew well retained this pleasure until his last hour.

S.--Our degustative senses require continual study, and unceasingly claim a constant change.

LORD M.--The greatest wit lacks eloquence, if he neglect too much the nature of his repast.

S.--Which proves, my Lord, that our most agreeable sensations depend, not solely on nature, but on the care we take of ourselves.

LORD M.--Yes, the more sensitive the soul, the greater the power of degustation. The degustative sensations operate with as great activity on the palate as the charm of melody acts on the ear; for example, man in a state of madness feels the want of eating, but the enchanting pleasure of degustation is as much denied to him as that of reason.

S.--Your argument on this point is extremely just, my Lord; and are you not of my opinion, that nothing disposes the human heart to amicable feelings more than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared?

LORD M.--It is that which has always made me say that a good cook is as useful as a good tutor.

S.--I have always perceived, my Lord, that the finest palate is the most difficult to please, but also the most just in praise.

LORD M.--The choice of wines is of great importance in the progress of a dinner: a fine wine, light and generous, protects the cook and becomes the benefactor of the guest.

S.--Permit me also to observe, my Lord, that a gastronomic _réunion_, without the _beau sexe_ is to me a flower-bed without flowers, an ocean without waves, a fleet without sails.

LORD M.--Certainly, such _réunions_ are the cradles of good manners and sociability, even as intemperance is the tomb of morality.

* * * * *

Just Published, the Thirtieth Thousand, Price 7s. 6d.,

THE

Modern Housewife, or Menagere,

COMPRISING

Nearly One Thousand Recipes for the Economic and Judicious Preparation of Every Meal of the Day,

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WITH MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.

BY A. SOYER, AUTHOR OF “THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR,”

Illustrated with Numerous Engravings.

_For Criticisms, see the Public Press in 1849._

LONDON: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT,

1853.

* * * * *

COPY OF A LETTER RECENTLY RECEIVED BY THE AUTHOR FROM DR. ERASMUS WILSON, AUTHOR OF “HEALTHY SKIN, A POPULAR TREATISE ON THE SKIN AND HAIR.”

17, HENRIETTA STREET, CAVENDISH SQUARE, _July 18th, 1853_.

SIR,

May I beg your acceptance of the accompanying small volume, for the part illustration of which I am indebted to your admirable “Housewife.” Your nursery dinner is one of the most valuable pages I have ever read on the subject of Diet; and it is calculated to confer an everlasting benefit on society.

I am, Sir,

Your faithful servant,

ERASMUS WILSON.

A. SOYER, ESQ.

* * * * *

Extract from “Healthy Skin, a Popular Treatise on the Skin and Hair.”

By Erasmus Wilson, F.R.S.

There is another branch of dietetics that calls for an observation from me, I mean the diet of children. Children are growing animals; nutrition in them is active, and calls for good and plentiful material in the shape of nourishment. As far as period is concerned, the same law that applies to adults is equally suited to them, three meals a day, an interval of four hours between each. I speak of children out of arms, not of infants. The substance of their meals cannot be too nutritive, or too much varied.

That the diet of children cannot be too varied or extensive is a doctrine I have long held; and I was recently much charmed in finding the subject treated with such admirable sense and judgment by a high authority in the science of living--Soyer. His letter entitled “The Nursery Dinner,” in the “Modern Housewife,” I cannot too strongly commend to the perusal and attention of my readers, and to the study of those on whom the proper rearing of children in any way rests. Speaking of the diet of children for the day, this author writes:--“Bread and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was composed as follows throughout the week,--roast mutton and apple pudding, roast beef and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with turnips, after which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little salt beef, with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or pease pudding; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken broth, or beef-tea.”

This scheme of diet is intended for the children of persons in very moderate circumstances; but for those who can afford it he prescribes, as the dinner of one day, roast mutton: “then the next day I would give them a small piece of mutton plain boiled, with turnips, and apple tart, or a few slices of roast beef, or a small piece roasted on purpose, after which a very plain currant pudding; or, occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but very well boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change, either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings; in case of illness, and with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c. Many people may perhaps imagine that there is too much variety of food for children, but it is quite the contrary, for change of food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health; and of course, with children, these changes must be effected with judgment.”

Soyer is perfectly right with regard to the question of variety of food for children; and the intention is so rational, that it is difficult to conceive how a difference of opinion can exist with regard to its truth; and yet I have heard parents make a boast that their children were fed exclusively upon mutton, as though it were their intention to render the stomach incapable of supporting and digesting any other kind of food,--in which they generally succeed.

Sameness of food, improper food, defective ventilation, and insufficient exercise, are the causes of most of the diseases of children; and especially of cutaneous complaints. This is the secret of the ring-worms and scald-heads of public seminaries. In some of these institutions, as I have heard, there is a ceremony in which the children take a public meal in the presence of the governors and their friends. On these occasions, the platters eclipse in whiteness the envious snow; a suppressed burst of delight is heard from the spectators; the morsel of cheese, cut with mathematical precision, would not vary a grain in the thousand platters; the bread--what ingenuity!--each with his neighbour a very twin. And how many days in the year do the children enjoy this fattening collation?--365. For three hundred and sixty-five days, for a thousand children, is this “_toujours perdrix_” feast the very same; and yet there are people in the world who wonder that diseases should break out, that skin affections should be rife, that consumptions should prevail. Engraft a bud of Soyer on such an institution, and health and happiness, learning, ability, and talent will take the place of disease, melancholy, stupidity, and common-place intellect. What, now, in this intelligent country, if there were a college of cookery, with Soyer for its head?

* * * * *

_Now in progress_,

Soyer’s Plain Cookery for the People,

CONTAINING NUMEROUS RECIPES,

Adapted for the Cottage of the Labourer, the Home of the Artisan, and the Chamber of the Invalid.

* * * * *

NOTE BY THE AUTHOR.

In the year 1846 I published a work on Cookery, entitled “The Gastronomic Regenerator,” which was very successful. At page 650 I observed that if any author were to write a work on the History of Food and Cookery, it would not only be very interesting, but also an extremely useful production. No one, however, having entertained my suggestion, I determined to undertake the task, and, after several years of deep study and perseverance, have completed this voluminous work.

In the “Modern Housewife,” which I published in 1849, treating of sauces prepared by the ancients, I said, that “In all ages and countries removed from barbarism, where fish has formed an article of diet, sauces of various kinds have been an accompaniment. With the Romans, in the time of Lucullus, great care was observed in their preparation; the most celebrated of those which they used were the _Garum_ and the _Muria_.

“The Garum was a sauce which the Romans used in nearly all their dishes; the preference was given to that which came from Antipolis and from Dalmatia. Horace praises that made at Byzantium, being the most esteemed and the most expensive: its composition is unknown.”[I] The epicures of the present day should offer a premium for that which, in their opinion, may bear the greatest resemblance to this ancient relish. It is a subject well worthy the attention of the professors of our universities; perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered, that may have escaped the conflagration of Alexandria, might throw some light upon so interesting a subject.

A. SOYER.

_42 Trinity Square, Tower Hill._

Vizetelly and Company, Printers and Engravers, 155 Fleet Street, London.