Part 45

Sauce à la Cameline 258 Tence sauce 258 Brine, how made 269 Digestive salt, how made 269 Garum, various recipes 270 & 271 Digestive garum (Apicius) 272 Wonderful seasoning of Apicius 274 Oxyporon seasoning 274 Honey, its medicinal properties 276 Cinnamon, its medicinal properties 276 Greek and Roman pickles 278 Truffles, Apicius’s method of preparing 280 Syrup of truffles, how made 280 Truffles, medicinal quality 281 Truffles, how to preserve 281 The Emperor Verus’s pie, how made 287 Cato’s cake, how made 287 Ancient pie, the placenta, how made 287 Globi, method of making 288 Apicius’s globi, three recipes 289 Original pastry, its progress, how made 291 Darioles, how composed 292 Curious tarts 292

WATER.

Aristotle’s method of obtaining ice 295

BEVERAGES.

Zythum and Curmi, how composed 299 Strong ale, how to make a hogshead 302 Bracket, way of making 303 Ptisana, recipe 304 Oxycratus, do. 304 Sicera, made of grain, honey, or fruit 304 Hydromel, method of making it 304 Hydromelon, how composed 305 Hydrorosatum, simple addition to the preceding 305 Apomeli, simple recipe 305 Omphacomeli, ingenious mixture 305 Myrtites, aromatic drink 305 Date wine, how made 305 Artificial wines 305 Nero’s refreshing water 305

TEA.

Various teas, how manufactured 306

COFFEE.

Various qualities of coffee 310 Coffee, made with roasted rye 311 Coffee, with chicory 311 Coffee, made with lupin 311 Coffee, its medicinal properties 311 Coffee, its physical effects 312

CHOCOLATE.

Various kinds of cocoa 313 Chocolate, how manufactured 313 Chiapa, perfumed chocolate 314 Chocolate, its properties 314

WINE.

Grapes, way of preserving fresh 325 Wine, method of making 325 Piquette, simple way of obtaining it 326 Carenum, how obtained 326 Defrutum, how obtained 326 Sapa, how obtained 326 Wine, how to preserve it 326 Preparation of dolia for wine 327 Wine, how to fine it 327 Athenæus’s opinion of old wine 329 Difference of properties between white and red wines 329 Process of preparation for Chios wine 330 Passum wine 320 Dulce wine 330 Mulsum wine 331 Anisites wine 331 Rosatum wine, Apicius’s recipe 331 Violatum wine 331 Myrrhinum wine 331

LIQUEUR WINE.

Various composition of liqueurs, herbs employed 333 Liqueur wine for Greek and Roman ladies 333 Wormwood wine, how made, its properties 334 Bitter liqueurs, how obtained 334 Myrtle wine, its properties 334 Adynamon wine, its properties 335 Œnanthinum wine 335 Burgundy and Champagne wines 336 Ypocras, how composed 338 Clarey, how composed 338

REPASTS.

ROMAN SUPPER.

Fly dishes, or dormice, what they consist of 390 Champignon and egg sausages, how made 390 Grasshoppers, how prepared and cooked 390

INDEX.

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Abacus, sideboard, 264

Abderites, give up their soil to frogs, 249

Ablution, 382, 388

Ablutions, before supper, 372

Acerræ, vases for perfumes, 389

Acetabulum, vinegar cruet, 264

Acetaria, pickles of the ancients, 64

Achilles turned the spit, 253

Acorns, a primitive food, 23

“ eaten by the Spaniards, 24

“ a substitute for wheat, 24

Acratism, breakfast, 342

Acrobats, known to the ancients, 395

Adephagia, the goddess of good cheer, 256

Adrian’s regulations respecting cattle, 127

Adversitores, Roman footmen, 377

Adynamon wine, 334

Æsopus’ dish of singing birds, 193

Agapæ, love feasts, 346

Agricultural Society of England (the Royal), 16, 410

“ trophy, 411

Agriculture, 9

“ its origin, 9

“ developed the industry of the Jews, 11

“ very ancient in Egypt, 12

“ highly respected by the Roman Senate, 13

“ first treatise on, 16

“ honours paid to, 16

“ protected by Charles IX. of France, 18

Aï wine, 337

Albanum wine, 329

Albert, banquets offered to H. R. H. Prince, 403

Alcibiades’ banquet, 355

Ale, its ancient reputation, 301

“ its curative properties, 301

“ how it was made in England, 302

Ale, its price under Edward II., 302

Alec, a kind of brine, 240, 271

Alexander the Great discovered the eschalot, 82

“ was fond of apples, 108

“ an admirer of peacocks, 166

“ his magnificent banquet, 357

“ his silver arm-chairs, 372

Alfred the Great a renowned hunter, 181

Alisander, a valuable remedy, 91

Almond tree, 117

“ a native of Paphlagonia, 117

“ highly valued in the East, 117

“ how to augment its fertility, 117

Almonds, Apician preparation of, 117

“ eaten before drinking, 117

“ oil extracted from, 117

“ paste obtained from, 118

“ their various uses, 118

Alose sauce, 258

Alphonso of Castile, his repugnance to garlic, 81

Amalthæa, the goat, 23

Amboise (George d’), Archbishop of Rouen, 172

Ambrosia, the food of the gods, 23

Amphis, despised horse-radishes, 80

Amphoræ, vases used for wine, 328, 390

Ampulla, a crystal bottle, 296

Amusements of the guests, 383

Anacreon sung parsley, 83

Anaphe, an island desolated by hares, 188

Anchovies, 240

“ how preserved, 240

“ supplied a kind of garum, 240, 270

“ how cooked, 241

Andalusia, renowned for its olives, 98

Anecdote, severity of Pygmalion, 125

“ the eggs of Petronius, 201

Angel-fish, its size, 237

Anglo-Saxons, devoted to agriculture, 17

Anglo-Saxons, their rural occupations, 17

“ their culinary utensils, 346

Animal food added to vegetables, 123

“ when first introduced, 124

Animals, 133

Anise-seed, extolled by Pythagoras, 88

“ recommended by Pliny, 88

Anisites wine, 331

Anna Perenna, a protectress of flocks, 128

Antecœna, first course, 390

Antidote of Mithridates, 119

Antiphanus, a patron of quails, 197

Antony was fond of fishing, 250

“ his liberality towards a cook, 256

Apician pork, 138

Apicii, the three, 200

Apicius, he killed himself, 51

“ his gastronomic treatise, 200

“ his prize for a new brine, 213

“ his voyage to Africa, 247

“ his cakes, 289

Apollo was an ichthyophagist, 210

Apomeli, a kind of beverage, 305

Appetite, its three degrees, 255

Appius Claudius’ aqueduct, 295

Apple tree in Greece, 108

“ seldom mentioned in Holy Writ, 108

“ cultivated by the Latins, 109

“ introduced into Gaul, 109

Apples, named after eminent personages, 109

Apricot tree, 103

Apricots, their price in Rome, 103

“ how prepared, 104

Apronian cherry, 103

Apronianus, his decree respecting the Roman butchers, 130

Aqueducts of Rome, 294

Archestrates, his culinary meditations, 254

Archimagirus, chief cook, 256, 260

Argonauts, they discovered the pheasant, 194

Aristœus, the inventor of oil mills, 97

“ “ of cheese, 173

“ discovered honey, 273

Aristocracy of England, its munificent hospitality, 384

Aristoxenic ham, 139

Aristoxenus, his lettuces, 74

Armeniaca, apricot tree, 103

Artemidorus, regulated the culinary language, 254

Artichoke, known to the ancients, 70

“ despised by Galen, 70

“ sung by Columella, 70

Artichoke, forgotten during a long period, 70

“ their preparation, 71

“ how to render them mild, 71

“ how preserved, 71

“ when introduced into England, 52

Artificial dishes, 260

“ wines, 305

Artocreas, a kind of pie, 265, 286

Artolaganos, a kind of bread, 32

Artoplites, 38

Artopticius panis, 38

Arvales brothers, instituted by Romulus, 13

Asafœtida, esteemed by the ancients, 91

“ extraction of its resin, 92

Ascalon, the native place of eschalots, 82

Asparagus, 84

“ brought from Asia; grown at Ravenna, 65

“ Roman; their size; how prepared, 65

“ boiled; how preserved; hurtful to the sight, 65

“ when introduced into England, 52

“ wine, 333

Ass, its flesh forbidden to the Jews; patronised by Mecænas, 150

Asses used in Roman mills, 26

“ milk beneficial to Francis I., 169

“ “ cheese obtained from it, 173

Astrologicus panis, a sort of bread, 38

Astydamas, a great eater, 339

Athelstan, a promoter of the art of venery, 181

Athenæus praises the Damascus plum, 105

Athenians, their epicurism, 126

Athletæ, fed on figs, 113

Atriensis, hall-keeper, 376

Atrium, hall, 376

Attalus fond of gardening, 59

Attica, its pomegranates, 122

Augurs, their banquet, 357

Augustus, cured by lettuces, 75

“ was fond of cheese, 174

“ his sumptuary regulations, 347

Autopyron, a coarse bread, 37

Aveline, filbert, 120

Avena, vats, 20

Aviaries for thrushes, 198

“ Varro’s, 198

Aymar’s table of massive gold, 370

Azumos, a sort of bread, 32

Babylon, her celebrated gardens, 59

Bacchus, protector of the grapes; ripened the figs, 95

“ kills a goat, 124

“ the same as Osiris; cultivated the vine, 322

“ worshipped by the Romans, 324

Bacon, a substitute for oil, 100

“ was sold in public-houses, 138

Bailli de Suffren, a witty epicure, 343

Bain Marie of the ancients, 262

Bakehouses in Rome, 34

Baker, of King Pharaoh, 31

“ Greek bakers, 32

“ in Rome, 34, 35

“ submitted to certain regulations, 35

“ under the Norman kings, 38, 39

“ in France; how they were admitted at Paris, 39

Bancs, benches, 374

Banquet of Geta, 126

“ of Caranus, 155

“ of Charles VI., 259

“ of Alexander the Great, 357

“ etymology, 374

“ offered to Napoleon; to the allied sovereigns, 407

“ to H. M. Queen Victoria, 408

“ on the occasion of the baptism of Prince Albert Duncan, 412

Banquets of the ancients, 345

“ of William the Conqueror, 352

“ of the Hebrews, 354

“ in the Temples, 355

“ triumphal, 357

“ modern, 401, 407, 408

“ conducive to the prosperity of nations, 402

“ offered to H. R. H. Prince Albert, 403

“ given by the Reform Club, 408

Barbarossa’s pike, 228

Barbers in Rome, 387

Bardakes, cooling vases, 297

Barley, an ignominious food, 20

“ a symbol of fertility, 41

“ gruel, 41, 42

“ water, 42, 304

Basque fishermen, 231

Baths in Rome, 387

Bean, a dismal food; offered to Apollo; served on good tables, 53

“ Egyptian; Greek; royalty of the bean, 54

Beaune wine, 336

Beccafico, 201, 203

Beef, 143

“ à l’Ibérienne; à la Sarmate, 144

Beer, an ancient beverage, 299

“ a substitute for wine, 300

Bees, under the protection of Mellona, 273

Beet, etymology, 62

“ preparation, 62, 63

“ preservation, 63

“ a vermifuge, 62

Belisarius, his watermills on the Tiber, 28

Bellaria, dessert, 394

Bellay, Bishop of Mans (Du), 24

Berlanda, disinherited by her father (St.), 374

Beuchlingen (Countess of), fond of eel-pouts, 229

Beuckels, the Dutch fisherman, 239

Beverages, of which water is the foundation, 299

Biclinium, 372

Bill of Fare, 264, 404, 405, 409

“ of an English dinner in the 15th century, 362

Birds, when served, 193

“ a dish of 7,000 birds, 207

“ mixed with garlands of flowers, 394, 395

Birds’-nests, various opinions; described by Poivre, 205

“ substantial food; of two sorts, 206

Bittern, 198

Black pudding, 138

“ sauce of Lacedæmon, 252

Blackbirds, dear to the Roman epicures; medicinal properties; imprisoned by Louis XI, 199

Blé, wheat, 19

Blit, its insipidity, 68

Bœotia, produced excellent pomegranates, 122

“ renowned for its ducks, 158

Bœuf-gras, a fatted ox, 145

Bold appetite, 255

Boleti, mushrooms, 283

Bon Chrétien pear, 107

Books placed in the dining-room, 364

Bordeaux, its oysters, 244

Botargo, a preparation from the eggs of mullets, 220

Bourbon coffee, 310

Bourriche of oysters, 242

Bouturon, butter, 171

Brahmin women, worship a cow, 145

Braket, a beverage for the lower classes, 303

Bramble of Ida, 115

Braziers of the ancients, 365

Bread, how made in the East, 30

“ without leaven, 31

“ of Athens; of Megara, 32

“ various kinds in Greece, 32, 33

“ baking, 33

“ of the athletæ, 37

“ soaked in vinegar, 278

“ carried round the tables, 392

Breakfast of Galba, 257

“ of the Romans; of the Greeks, 342

“ first meal, 344, 349

Brill, 237

Brine, used to preserve cheese, 174

“ from the blood of mackerel, 213

“ served at table, 268

“ brought from Dalmatia, 269

Britons, paid little attention to agriculture, 16

“ their frugality, 17

“ abstained from the hare, 188

“ “ from fish, 214

Brocoli, esteemed by connoisseurs; how prepared, 69

Brouet, a German dish, 258

Bubona, the goddess of oxen, 128

Buccellatum, biscuit, 37

Buffets of the Romans, 364

“ in the middle ages, 365

Buffon and the truffles, 279

Buffoons, 382

Buhl work, valued by the ancients, 369

Bun, its probable origin (Cross), 290

Buphonic feast, 125

Burgundy wine, 336

Bustard, 206

Butchers in Greece; in Rome; their patron, 129

“ corporations; regulations, 130, 131

Butter, a substitute for oil, 100

“ known in the East, 170

“ its manipulation; used for pastry; served instead of oil; the food of the barbarians; a remedy, 171

“ how to obtain it instantly; how to attenuate its rancidity; its preservation; burned in lamps, 172

“ fried or roasted, 258

“ regulations for its sale, 172

“ Tower, the, 172

Butts, of the ancients, 327

Cabbage, cured all diseases, 50

“ various preparations; brought into Gaul; how preserved, 61

Cacabaceus panis, a kind of bread, 38

Cadmus, the culinary tutor of a king, 253

Cæsar, served with bad oil, 99

“ sumptuary regulations, 347

Cake, devoured by an ox, 125

Cakes of the ancients, 285

Caligula, made his own apotheosis, 165

“ his expedition against Britain, 241

Calves, how fed, 143

Cambis devoured his wife, 339

Camels’-milk cheese, 173

“ flesh, 190

Cameline sauce, 257

Campanian bacon, 140

“ wines, 333

Canard, a French, 158

Candelabra, 389

Cantabria, renowned for hams, 137

Cantibaris, his stupendous gluttony, 340

Capers, left to the people; how prepared, 91

Capitolian pig’s liver, 140

Capon, first introduced, 154

“ à la déliaque, 155

Cappadocians, venerated water, 293

Capreæ, excesses of, 126

Capsarii, attendants in the Roman baths, 387

Caracas cocoa, 313

Caranus, a Greek epicure; his wedding repast, 155, 186

Carenum, cooked wine, 326

Caria, its oil, 98

Carp, held in estimation; how cooked; its size; its fecundity; its longevity; where naturalised, 229

Carrots, much esteemed; how prepared, 68

Carthaginian chariot, 15

“ apples, 122

Cartier (Jacques), 231

Carver, 377

Carvilius, an artist in buhl-work, 369

Carving, art of; with music, 260

Castella aquarum, large water basins, 295

Castor, trained horses, 179

Catalonia, celebrated for hams, 137

Catesby, his opinion of the flamingo, 201

Catinus, a vase, 263

Cato, noticed the fig tree, 114

“ sold his old slaves, 208

“ his recipe for a cake, 287

Cattle mentioned in the Mosaic law; valued by the Romans; rearing of cattle, 127

“ markets of the Hebrews; of the Greeks, 128

“ of the Romans, 129

Cattle, feeding of, 128

Cauliflowers unknown in England before Charles II., 52

Caviar, how prepared; of two sorts, 217

Cayenne coffee, 310

Cecilian cherry, 103

Celer, the price he gave for a red mullet, 213

Cellars of the ancients, 326

Celtiberia, swarming with rabbits, 189

Cereals, 19, 22

“ name of a feast; when discovered, 22

Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, 9, 13

“ a queen of Sicily, 24

“ gave the fig tree to Phytalus, 113

“ killed the first pig, 124

“ was presented with milk, 169

Cerevisia, beer, 300

Chafing-dishes, 262

Chailly, bread of, 39

Chairs used by the Greeks, 318

Chalices of the Greeks, 372

“ of amber, 321

Champagne wine, 33

Champignon sausages, 390

Charcutier, pork butcher, 132

Charlemagne’s kitchen-garden, 51

“ silver tables, 370

Charles VI. of France; his wedding banquet, 259

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

Charles IX. of France; his edict in favour of agriculture, 18

“ an admirer of turkeys, 185

Charles X. of France; his coronation banquet, 408

Cheese, 168

“ mentioned by Aristotle, 171

“ invented by Aristœus; known to the Hebrews; a military aliment; various sorts; given to the Greek wrestlers, 173

“ preserved in brine; Tromelian; à la Bithynienne, 174

Cherips, invented a new dish, 280

Cherry tree, cultivated by Mithridates; introduced by Lucullus, 102

“ propagated in Italy, 103

Cherries praised, 102

“ when served; various kinds;

“ cherry wine, 103

Chervil, how prepared, 84

Chestnuts, preparation of; oil extracted, 121

“ kept green all the year, 122

Chestnut tree, its native place, 121

Chickens, sacred, 156

Chickens, hatched in ovens; à la Cœlienne; à la Frontonienne, 157

Chicory, mixed with coffee, 311

Chimneys known to the ancients, 261

“ unknown to the Hebrews, 365

Chinese, their respect for agriculture, 15

Chios wine, 328, 330

Chiron, a pupil of Diana, 179

Chocolat de santé, 313

Chocolate, 312

“ used by the Mexicans, 313

“ a favourite food in Spain; its properties; when introduced into France, 314

Christmas bread, 40

Christmas feasts under Richard II., 351

Chrodegand, Bishop of Metz, 24

Cicero’s valuable tables, 369

Cider maker, 304

Cinara metamorphosed into an artichoke, 70

Cinnamon, its mysterious growing, 275

“ its scarcity; from China; offered as a present, 276

Cisalpine preserve, 145

City of London, its ancient gastronomic profusion, 351

Civilis panis, a kind of bread, 38

Clarence’s wedding repast (Duke of), 351

Clarey, an English drink, 338

Claudius, his guests, 257

“ poisoned by mushrooms, 282

“ his voracity, 340

Clement VII. poisoned by mushrooms, 282

Clerks’ wine, 337

Clerks’ feeding in the 16th century, 348

Cloths, dimensions of table; cutting away the table cloth, 374

Cloves, 276

Clovis, his politeness, 384

Club of Roman epicures, 243

Cock, consecrated to Mars; cock-fight in Greece; in Italy, 153

“ white, proclaimed the hours, 154

Cocoa-nut, 312

Cod-fishing; weight; fecundity, 231, 232

“ how dressed, 231

Cœlia, beer, 200

Cœna, supper, of various descriptions, 356, 357

Cœnaculum, dining-room, 363

Cœur, introduced the turkey (Jacques), 165

Coffee, of various kinds; its introduction, 310

“ when mentioned; its properties, 311

Coffee when drunk in Italy; in London; in Paris; in Sweden; a slow poison; with milk, 312

Collation, 342, 344

“ of the Romans, 343

“ of Lucullus, 348

Colum nivarium, snow cullender, 296, 327

“ vinarium, wine strainer, 331

Colymbades, a kind of olives, 98

Comissatio, a sort of “wake”, 345

Comus, his portrait, 355

Conflagration of Rome, 396

Conger-eel, bestowing immortality; of a considerable size, 226

“ culinary preparation, 226

Connétable, a celebrated orange tree, 112

Conon’s banquet, 355

Conviva, guest, 381

Cookery, ancient, 266

“ exposed to unjust reproaches, 251

Cooks, 251

“ Greek, 126

“ from Sicily, 256, 344

“ erratic, 265

“ how rewarded, 256

“ in the middle ages, 259

“ of Louis XIV., 215, 256

“ his qualities, 252

Coriander used to preserve meat, 47

Corinth, its quinces, 106

Cormorant, 193

Corn, its aboriginal country, 22

“ various kinds, 19

“ best; Roman law, 21

“ cutting, 14

“ grinding, 23, 25

“ its preservation, 15

Cornelian law, 347

Corporation of butchers, 130

Cos, its poultry, 154

“ wine, 328

Cossi, large worms, 265

Couches for the repasts, 372

“ of some emperors, 373

“ in the middle ages, 374

Counts of Anjou, introduced the plum tree, 105

Courses, 362

“ their number, 345, 390, 391

Cow, worshipped by Brahmin women, 145

“ milk; cheese, 173

Condiments, 272

Crab, its seasoning; sausages; stuffed, 248

Cranaus mixed water with wine, 323

Crane, 193

Crater, a cup, 391

Crawfish, 247

Crayfish, seasoning; from Alexandria; how preserved, 248

Crédences, dressers, 365

Cross-bun, 290

Crow, 193, 207

Crowns of thrushes, 198

“ for the guests, 391

Crucifixion, the punishment of slaves, 208

Cruet, 264

Crystal, malleable, 218

Crystal Palace, the, 402

Cubicularii, valets, 377

Cucumber, plentiful in Egypt; from Antioch; marvellous properties, 72

“ protects all kinds of seeds; preparation; preservation, 73

Cummin, 91

Cups, 263, 316

“ in the Homeric ages, 317

“ variety of shapes, 318, 321

“ of praise, 369

“ modern, 407

“ bearer, 378

Curlew, 207

Curmi, beer, 299