The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Part 44
[XXXIII-22] Philo. De Vitâ Contemplativâ.
[XXXIII-23] Plaut. Trin. ii. 1, 22.
[XXXIII-24] Propert. ii. 25, 11.
[XXXIII-25] Terent. Eunuch, iii. 5, 47; Fulv. Ursin. In Appendic. ad Ciaccon.
[XXXIII-26] Plaut. Most. iv. 1, 24; Terent. Adelphi. 12.
[XXXIII-27] Pignorius; Sueton, In Claud. 44.
[XXXIII-28] Petron. c. 22; Pignorius.
[XXXIII-29] Senec. Epist. 29; Lips. Elector, i. 19.
[XXXIII-30] Ulpian. L. i. § 5, Dig. De Naut. Caupon. et Stabular.
[XXXIII-31] Id. Dig. xxxviii. t. 7, L. viii. Fin. § 1.
[XXXIII-32] Stuckius.
XXXIV.
THE GUESTS.
[XXXIV-1] Genes. xliii. et passim.
[XXXIV-2] Schol. Theocrit. In Idyll. vii. 24; Plut. Sympos. viii. 6.
[XXXIV-3] Athen. i. 21.
[XXXIV-4] Id. i. 23.
[XXXIV-5] Homer.
[XXXIV-6] Athen. i. 19.
[XXXIV-7] Id. i. 7.
[XXXIV-8] Xenoph. De Republ. Laced.; Plut. Vita Lycurg.
[XXXIV-9] Athen. i.
[XXXIV-10] Plutarch. Sympos.
[XXXIV-11] Apul. Milesiar. x.
[XXXIV-12] Macrob. Saturnal. iii. 17.
[XXXIV-13] Gell. xiii. 11; De Num. Conviv.
[XXXIV-14] Macrob. loc. cit.
[XXXIV-15] Sammonic. Severus; Macrob. loc. cit.
[XXXIV-16] Plaut.; Horat.
[XXXIV-17] Plaut.
[XXXIV-18] Athen. vi. 5; Terent. Eunuch, ii. 2, 13, et 16.
[XXXIV-19] Virg. Æn. i.; Plaut. Pers. v. 2; Athen. xiv.
[XXXIV-20] Genes. xviii. 4; xix. 2; Judic. xix. 21; Luc. vii. 44; 1 Timoth. v. 10, et passim.
[XXXIV-21] Tibull. Eleg. iv. 6.
[XXXIV-22] Marc. xiv. 3.
[XXXIV-23] Horat. Od. iii. 14; Anacr. passim.
[XXXIV-24] Plin. xiv. 22; Plut. Sympos.; Athen. x.
[XXXIV-25] Strutt, Anglo-Saxons, vol. i. p. 49.
[XXXIV-26] Id. Ib. p. 48.
[XXXIV-27] Froissard.
[XXXIV-28] Saint-Foix, Essais sur Paris.
[XXXIV-29] Laneham, Sports exhibited at Kenilworth.
[XXXIV-30] Johan. Sarisburiensis, i. 8, p. 34.
[XXXIV-31] Saint-Foix, Essais, tom. iv. p. 135.
[XXXIV-32] Herodot. ii.
[XXXIV-33] Sapient. iii. 4.
XXXV.
A ROMAN SUPPER.
[XXXV-1] Genes, xviii.; Esther, v.; Matth. xxii.
[XXXV-2] Plin. xxxv. 10.
[XXXV-3] Mercurial. De Arte Gymnast, p. 94, edit. Frisii; Apul. Metamorph. v. In Principio; Id. lib. iv. Asini.
[XXXV-4] Apul. loc. cit.
[XXXV-5] Leclerc, Histoire de la Médecine, p. 573.
[XXXV-6] Apul. lib. i. Apologiæ Suæ, ex Catull.
[XXXV-7] Sammonic. Seren. De Medicinâ, c. 15.
[XXXV-8] Plaut. In Captivis, act i. sc. 2, v. 84.
[XXXV-9] Martial. v. 44.
[XXXV-10] Plin. vii. 60.
[XXXV-11] Id. xxxvi. 10.
[XXXV-12] Turneb. Adversar. xxiii. 19; xxvii. 18.
[XXXV-13] Theophrast. Charact. 20.
[XXXV-14] Virgil. Æn. i. v. 729.
[XXXV-15] Montfaucon, Antiq. Expl.
[XXXV-16] Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 122.
[XXXV-17] Plutarch. Problem. Romanor. 76.
[XXXV-18] Petron. loc. cit.
[XXXV-19] Terent. Heautontimor. act i. sc. 1.
[XXXV-20] Octav. Ferrarius, De Re Vestiariâ, i. 31.
[XXXV-21] Le Pitture Antiche d’Ercolano, tom. i. tav. 14.
[XXXV-22] Dio. lxix.
[XXXV-23] Senec. De Vitâ Beatâ; Tibull. iv. 6; Psalm. passim.
[XXXV-24] Sil. Ital. Punicor. vi.
[XXXV-25] Petron. Conviv. Trimalcion.
[XXXV-26] Just. Lips.
[XXXV-27] Juvenal. Sat. xi.
[XXXV-28] Pacatus.
[XXXV-29] Vitruv. Architect. v. 8.
[XXXV-30] Quintilian. Institut. Orator. i. 14.
[XXXV-31] Valer. Maxim, ii. 1.
[XXXV-32] Arnob. ii.
[XXXV-33] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-34] Quintilian. Declamat. 301.
[XXXV-35] Juvenal. Sat. v. 32; vi. 154.
[XXXV-36] Terent. Eunuch, act. i. sc. 2, v. 85.
[XXXV-37] Virgil. Æn. v.
[XXXV-38] Cic. ad Familiar. ix. 20.
[XXXV-39] Horat. Sat. ix. 8, 9.
[XXXV-40] Petron. à Nodot. tom. i. p. 124.
[XXXV-41] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-42] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-43] Apicius, ii. 1.
[XXXV-44] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-45] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-46] Petron. p. 128.
[XXXV-47] Athen. iv.
[XXXV-48] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-49] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-50] Petron. tom. i. p. 130.
[XXXV-51] Alex. Trallian. lib. Problem 1.
[XXXV-52] Aul. Gell. xv. 2.
[XXXV-53] Plutarch. Sympos. i. Quæst. 4.
[XXXV-54] Martial. vi. 89.
[XXXV-55] Id. iii. 8.
[XXXV-56] Lucan. Pharsal. lib. iii. carm. 14.
[XXXV-57] Athen. iii. 21.
[XXXV-58] Virgil. Georg. ii. 528.
[XXXV-58A] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 9.
[XXXV-59] Martial. xiii. 52.
[XXXV-60] Plin.
[XXXV-61] Martial. iii. 5.
[XXXV-62] Id. xiii. 71.
[XXXV-63] Juvenal. i. 141.
[XXXV-64] Petron. à Nodot, tom. i. p. 136.
[XXXV-65] Martial. xiii. 44.
[XXXV-66] Id. xiii. 56.
[XXXV-67] Id. xiii. 55.
[XXXV-68] Petron. tom. i. p. 130.
[XXXV-69] Id. p. 136.
[XXXV-70] Martial. iii. 82.
[XXXV-71] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-72] Horat. Sat. ii. 8, 86.
[XXXV-73] Petron. p. 138.
[XXXV-74] Martial. i. 62.
[XXXV-75] Petron. p. 132.
[XXXV-76] Id. Ib.
[XXXV-77] Virgil. Æn. ii. 49.
[XXXV-78] Plaut. Cur. i. 3, 15.
[XXXV-79] Encyclop. Méthod. Antiquités.
[XXXV-80] Plaut. In Sticho.
[XXXV-81] Sueton. In Galba.
[XXXV-82] Juvenal. Sat. xi.
[XXXV-83] Gell. xiii. 11.
[XXXV-84] Martial. v. 79.
[XXXV-85] Fest. Paniroll. tom. ii. tit. 2, De Porcellanis.
[XXXV-86] Nicephor. Gregoras; Manilius; Nicetas; Vopiscus.
[XXXV-87] Casaub. In Athen. i. 15.
[XXXV-88] Xenoph. In Conviv.
[XXXV-89] Herodot. vi. 129.
[XXXV-90] Xenoph. loc. cit.; Caylus, Recueil d’Antiquités. tom. i. p. 202.
[XXXV-91] Caylus, Ib.; Athen. iv.
[XXXV-92] Socrat. In Conviv. Xenoph.
[XXXV-93] Horat. Sat. lib. ii. 7, v. 82.
[XXXV-94] Caylus, tom. iv. pl. 80, No. 1; tom. vi. pl. 90, No. 3; tom. vii. p. 164.
[XXXV-95] Vet. Scholiast. Juvenal. ad v. 162, sat. 11.
[XXXV-96] Rosinus, Antiquit. Roman. p. 391.
[XXXV-97] Macrob. Saturnal. ii. 1.
[XXXV-98] Rosinus, Ib.
[XXXV-99] Id. p. 410.
TABLE OF RECIPES
OF
Ancient Cookery, and for the making of various Dishes.
Page OXEN.
Care taken of oxen at the plough 14 Greek and Roman manure 14
CEREALS.
How to keep corn any length of time 15 Marshal Vanban’s method for using corn in soup 15
Rural occupation of the Anglo-Saxons throughout the year 17, 18
BREAD.
Bread made of spelt 19 Granea porridge 20 Avena oats for cattle and porridge 20 Seor bread 31 Azumos biscuit 33 Artolaganos biscuit 33 Escarites 33 Melitates 33 Tyrontes 33 Method of making leaven 36 Autopyron bread 37 Athletæ’s bread 37 Cappadocian ditto 38 Artoplites ditto 38 Astrologicus ditto 38 Panis madidus paste 38 Various kinds of bread made in Paris in the 14th century 40 Alphiton, or barley gruel 41 Another sort 42 How to obtain the flavour of vanille from oats, and make an excellent cream 42 Rice good in consumption and spitting of blood 43 Carthaginian pudding 44 Indian corn hasty pudding 44
SEEDS.
Mustard, its influence and qualities 46 Coriander, its properties 47 Lupin, fit for fattening cattle 47
VEGETABLES.
Method of preserving vegetables 51 Twelfth-Night cake 54 Haricots preserved 56 Apicius’s method of dressing cabbages 61 Dried cauliflowers 61 Beet, its medicinal qualities 62 Apicius, on stewing the beet 63 Beet-root as a salad 63 Mallows as a salad 64 How to keep asparagus several days 65 How to cook the gourd 66, 67 Turnips, how to dress 67 Carrots as a salad, and otherwise 68 Purslaine, its internal use 69 Sorrel, stewed 69 Method of rendering artichoke mild 71 Way of dressing 71 How to preserve them 71 Pompion, how to dress it; three recipes 72 Cucumber; four recipes 73 Apicius’s œnogarum 73 Lettuce, method of cultivation by Aristoxenus 74 How to dress lettuces 75 Endives, way of stewing them 76 Onions, stewed 76 Leeks, stewed 77 Radishes, how to preserve them 79 Horse-radish, its virtues 81 Garlic, its qualities 82 Parsley, stewed 82 Chervil, how used 84 Water-cress, its properties 85
PLANTS USED IN SEASONING.
Poppy, how used 86 Sow-thistle, good for rabbits 87 Rocket, good for removing freckles 87 Fennel, good for strengthening the sight 88 Dill, its qualities 88 Anise-seed, its properties 88 Hyssop, good for cutaneous eruptions 89 Wild marjoram, a most delicate condiment, &c. 89 Savory, its usefulness 89 Thyme, its culinary value 89 Wild thyme, efficacious, for the bite of serpents 89 Sweet marjoram, oil extracted from it 89 Pennyroyal, a digestive 90 Rue, a cure for the ear-ache 90 Mint, a preservative against curdling of milk 90 Assafœtida, chewed by the Persians and Indians 92 Ginger, an aperitive good for the scurvy and the chest 92 Wormwood, good for giddiness 93
STONE FRUIT.
Olive tree, preparation of its fruit 98 ---- and qualities 99 Dates, their various uses 101 Peaches, how to preserve them 104
PIP FRUIT.
Quinces, how to preserve them 107 Pears, strengthening qualities 107 Lemons, method of preserving 110 Mulberry, a beneficent fruit, agreeable to the stomach, and digestible 116
SHELL FRUIT.
Almonds, how to dress them, and their various properties 117 Walnuts, considered astringent, stomachic, an antidote to poison, and digestible 119 Pistachios, good however dressed 121 Chesnuts, how to preserve 122 Pomegranate, preserving 123
REARING OF CATTLE.
Oxen, how to fatten them 128 Method of salting and preserving meat 131
THE PIG.
Hog à la Troyenne 136 Apician brine, for salting pork 138 Apician pork 138 Macedonian pork 138 Stuffed sucking pig 139 Aristoxenic ham 139 Lucullian ham 139 Ventre de truie à la Troyenne 139 Ditto à la Romaine 139 Fillet of pork à la Bœotienne 139 Tétines de truie à la Salienne 140 Ditto à la Flamine 140 Olympian pig’s liver 140 Capitolian pig’s liver 140 Campanian bacon 140 Quenelles of pig’s liver and brains 140 Lucanian sausages 140 Imperial sausages 141
THE OX.
Beef à l’Ibérienne 144 Stewed beef à la Sarmate 144 Dish of veal à la Syracusaine 144 Noix de veau à la Tarantaise 144 Cisalpine preserve 145
THE LAMB.
Lamb’s head à la Quirinale 147 Quarter of lamb à l’Esquilon 147 Palatine broil 147 Roast lamb à la Phrygienne 147 Lamb à la Trimalcion 147
THE KID.
Kid à la Trans-Tibérienne 149 Roast Kid à la Janiculum 149 Kid à la Tarpéienne 149 Kid à la Tivoli 149 Kid à la Mélisienne 149
POULTRY.
Capon à la Déliaque 155
THE HEN.
Poularde à la Viminale 156
THE CHICKEN.
Apician Macedonia of chicken 157 Parthian chicken 157 Numidian chicken 157 Chicken à la Frontonienne 157 Chicken à la Cœlienne 157
THE DUCK.
Ducks’ brains à l’Epicurienne 159 Apicius’s seasoning for wild duck 159
THE GOOSE.
Sejus’s seasoning 161 Apician seasoning for roast goose’s liver 161 Boiled goose à la Gauloise 161
THE PIGEON.
Roast pigeon, with Servilian seasoning 163
THE GUINEA HEN.
Guinea hen à la Numide 163
THE TURKEY HEN.
Turkey à l’Africaine 165 How to fatten turkey 165 Turkey’s eggs more delicate than hen’s eggs 166 How to preserve turkey 166
THE PEACOCK.
Peacock of Samos 167
MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.
MILK.
Hygeian qualities of milk 169 Asses’ milk, good in weak constitutions 169 Macédoine Germanique of milk 170
BUTTER.
Method of preserving butter 172 Method of preventing rancidity 172
CHEESE.
Salad of cheese, à la Bithynienne 174 Dish of Tromelian cheese 174 Cheese of Rouergue 174
EGGS.
Eggs à la Romaine 177 Hard eggs à l’Athénienne 177 Fried eggs à l’Epœnète 177 Egyptian egg pudding 177 Lesbian eggs aux roses 177
THE STAG.
Quarter of stag roast à l’Nêméenne 183 Shoulder of stag à l’Hortensius 183 Fillet of stag à la Persane 183
THE ROEBUCK.
Roebuck with spikenard 184 Roebuck aux prunes 184 Roebuck aux Amandes de Pin 184
THE DEER.
Deer à la Marcellus 185
THE WILD BOAR.
Wild boar à la Troyenne 185 Wild boar à la Pompée 187 Quarter of wild boar à la Thebaine 187 Fillet of wild boar à la Macédonienne 187 Wild boar’s liver à la Grecque 187 Wild boar’s head à la Cantabre 187 Green ham of wild boar à la Gauloise 187
ELEPHANT.
Elephant’s feet roasted 192
FEATHERED GAME.
Pheasant’s flesh, good for weak stomachs 195 Starling, a nourishing and light food 200 Fig-pecker, an exquisite bird 203 Ortolan, has the same reputation 203 Ostrich, fatted and salted 203 Ostrich’s eggs, enormous, how to cook them 204 Ostrich’s fat, used in the preparation of dishes; cures rheumatism and paralysis 204 Salangan’s nest, a delicious seasoning 205 Salangan’s nest, good for exhaustion and debile stomachs 205 Salangan’s nest, makes a fortifying pottage 206 Snipe, delicate savour of the fat 207 Snipe, how to find, when in perfection 207 Lark, its supposed property 207 The common lark, wholesome and delicate 237
FISH.
Caviar, how manufactured 217 Mullet, way of dressing 219 Lamprey, Italian method of cooking 223 Scarus, an epicurean dish 224 Conger-eel, how dressed 226 Eel, Apicius’s recipe 227 Pike, preserved 228 Carp, curious way of dressing 229 Eel-pout, how to dress the liver 229 Trout, dressed as the preceding 230 Gold-fish, how served 230 Whiting, manner of cooking 231 Cod-fish, how cooked by the Greeks 231 Perch, way of dressing 232 Scates, the eggs excellent for intermittent fever 233 Sepia, Apicius’s recipe 234 Swordfish, how dressed by the Greeks 234 Shad, way it is cooked 234 Rhombo, a delicate fish, how dressed 235 Mugil, how prepared 235 Loligo, how prepared 237 Sole, a nourishing and light food 237 Pilchard, way of cooking 238 Loach, how dressed 238 Gudgeons, how dressed 239 Herring, methods of preserving 240 Anchovy, how salted and how dressed 241 Emphractum stew 242 Oysters, how dressed at Rome 243 Oysters, how preserved 244 Sea-hedgehog, way of cooking 245 Mussel, how dressed 245 Tortoise, the blood supposed to cure diseases of the eyes, how dressed 246 Sea crayfish, Roman way of dressing 247 Lobster, how cooked 248 River crayfish, how dressed and preserved 248 Crab sausages 248 Frogs, how dressed 249 Preserving of fish 251
SAUCE AND SEASONING.