Part 39

_Trois Potages._ _Trois Poissons._

Potage à la Victoria. Turbot à la Mazarine. Id. à la Prince of Wales. Rougets à l’Italienne Blanche. Id. Tortue Transparente. John Dory à la Marinière.

_Trois Relevés._

L’Extravagance Culinaire à l’Alderman.[G] Chapons à la Nelson. Quartier d’Agneau de Maison à la Sévigné.

[Sidenote: Venison.]

[Sidenote: Venison.]

_Quatre Flancs._

Timballe de Riz à la Royale. Jambon à la York. Vol au vent à la Talleyrand. Cannetons Canaris, Macédoine de Légumes.

_Six Entrées._

Sauté de Faisans au fumet de Gibier. Blancs de Volaille à la York Minster. Turbans de Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes.

Côtelettes de Mouton à la Réforme. Riz de Veau à la Palestine. Filets de Canneton à la Séville.

SECOND COURSE.

_Trois Rôtis._

Paon à l’ancienne Rome garni d’Ortolans. Bécasses aux Feuilles de Céleri. Guillenôts des Ardennes.

_Dix Entremets._

Crême de la Grande Bretagne à la Victoria. Galantine d’Oisons à la Volière. Gelée de Fraises Françaises à la Fontainebleau. Mireton de Homard. Tartelettes pralinées aux cerises de Montmorency.

Crême de la Grande Bretagne à l’Albert. Salade de Grouse à la Soyer. Chartreuse de Fruits aux Pêches. Gâteaux crêmants à la Duke of York. Rocailles aux Huîtres gratinées à l’Ostend.

[sidenote: Légumes à la Française. Petite Pois Verts.]

[sidenotnote: Légumes à la Française. Grosses Asperges à l’Américaine.]

_Trois Relevés._

Hure de Sanglier à l’Allemande en Surprise. Jambon Croquant aux Abricots. Paniér de Fruit glacé à la Lady Mayoress.

_Dessert Floréal à la Watteau._

Raisins de Fontainebleau. Fraises des bois Françaises. Pêches de Montreuil. Ananas.

Raisins Muscats. Melons. Bananas. Compote de Chaumontelle.

GENERAL BILL OF FARE FOR 248 GUESTS.

FIRST COURSE.

_Trente-deux Potages._

Quatre Potages à la Victoria. Quatre Id. à la Prince of Wales.

Huit Potages à la Tortue Transparente. Seize Id. à la Moderne.

_Trente-deux Poissons._

Huit Turbots à la Mazarin. Huit Truites Saumonées à la Marinière.

Huit Filets de Merlans à la Crême. Huit Crimp Cod aux Huîtres.

_Trente-deux Relevées._

Six Chapons à la Nelson. Six Saddleback de Mouton Gallois. Quatre Aloyaux de Bœuf au Raifort. Six Haunches de Venaison.

Six Quartiers d’Agneau de Maison à la Sévigné. Quatre Dindonneaux en Diadême.

_Trente-deux Flancs._

Huit Jambons à la York. Huit Poulardes à la Russe.

Huit Timballes de Riz à la Royale. Huit Pâtés chauds à la Westphalienne.

_Quarante-huit Entrées._

Huit Sautés de Faisans au fumet de Gibier aux Truffes. Huit de Côtelettes de Mouton à la Vicomtesse. Huit de Blancs de Volaille à la York Minster. Huit de Riz de Veau à la Palestine. Huit de Rissolettes de Volaille à la Pompadour. Huit de Salmi de Gibier à la Chasseur.

SECOND COURSE.

_Quarante Rôtis._

Huit de Perdreaux aux feuilles de Céleri. Huit de Faisans bardés au Cresson. Six de Cannetons au jus d’Oranges.

Six de Grouses à l’Ecossaise. Six de Levreaux au jus de Groseilles. Six de Bécasses et Bécassines au jus.

_Cent Entremets._

Dix Chartreuses de Pêches. Dix Gelées de fraises Françaises à la Fontainebleau. Dix Salades de Grouses à la Soyer. Dix Galantines Aspiquées à la Volière. Dix Crêmes transparentes au Kirchenwasser.

Dix Crevettes au Vin de Champagne. Dix Gâteaux crêmants à la Duke of York. Dix Petites Macédoines de fruit cristallisée. Dix Mirotons de Homard aux Olives. Dix Tartelettes prâlinées aux Cerises de Montmorency.

_Vingt Relevées._

Dix paniers de Fruits Glacés à la Lady Mayoress. Dix Jambons en Surprise à l’Ananas.

_Side Table--Vegetables._

Céleri à la Crême. Choux Fleurs au beurre. Haricots Verts. Choux de Bruxelles.

Céleri à la Crême. Choux Fleurs au beurre. Sea Kale. Choux de Bruxelles.

_Grand Dessert Floréal à la Watteau._

_L’Extravagance Culinaire à l’Alderman, or the One Hundred Guinea Dish._--The opportunity of producing some gastronomic phenomenon for the royal table on such an occasion as the York Banquet was irresistible; accordingly, the following _choice morsels_ were carefully selected from all the birds mentioned in the general bill of fare, to form a dish of delicacies worthy of his Royal Highness and the noble guests around him.

The extravagance of this dish, valued at one hundred guineas, is accounted for, by supposing, that if an epicure were to order a similar one for a small party, he would be obliged to provide the undermentioned articles, viz.:

At the cost of £ _s._ _d._ 5 Turtle heads, part of fins, and green fat 34 0 0 24 Capons, the two small _noix_ (nuts) from each side of the middle of the back only used, being the most delicate part of every bird 8 8 0 18 Turkeys, the same 8 12 0 18 Fatted pullets, the same 5 17 0 16 Fowls, the same 2 8 0 10 Grouse 2 5 0 20 Pheasants, _noix_ only 3 0 0 45 Partridges, the same 3 7 0 6 Plovers, whole 0 9 0 100 Snipes, _noix_ only 5 0 0 3 Dozen Quails, whole 3 0 0 40 Woodcocks, _noix_ only 8 0 0 3 Dozen Pigeons, the same 0 14 0 6 Dozen Larks, stuffed 0 15 0 Ortolans from Belgium 5 0 0 The _garniture_, consisting of cockscombs, truffles, mushrooms, crawfish, olives, American asparagus, _croustades_ (paste crust), sweetbreads, _quenelles de volaille_ (strips or slices of fowl), green mangoes, and a new sauce 14 10 0 -------------- £105 5 0

In order to present to the reader the striking contrast of extravagance in ancient and modern cookery, we here give an engraving of the celebrated Roman dish (Wild Boar à la Troyenne) described in page 185. It appears to have been one of those extraordinary efforts of genius which the artist could only produce under the sanction of a lavish patron. It was a veritable _tour-de-force_, and, no doubt deserved the commendation it received, not only because it was of colossal size, and the good taste displayed, but also on account of the various culinary delicacies of which it was composed. We have no account of the cost of such a dish, but, judging from the excessive prices given in ancient times for all _recherché_ articles at the tables of the great, it must have been enormous.

We will now resume our description of the York Banquet. In front of the

principal table, on a raised platform, covered with purple cloth, was a collection of maces, swords, &c., estimated by competent judges to be worth £12,000.

The most conspicuous ornament was placed immediately behind the great circular table; it was designed by the author, and is represented in the accompanying engraving. It consisted of a large emblematic vase, twenty feet in height, painted and modelled by Mr. Alfred Adams. Around the base are Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, presenting specimens of industry to Britannia. From the centre of the base springs a palm tree, surrounded by the arms of the cities of London and York; medallion portraits of her Majesty and Prince Albert, encircled by the shields of the principal cities and towns of the United Kingdom, form the body of the vase; two figures of Ireland and Scotland the handles; the Prince of Wales’s emblem the neck, and the royal arms the apex. Appended were graceful wreaths of flowers, in which the symbols of the Houses of York and Lancaster (red and white roses) predominated; and when a brilliant flood of gaslight, aided by powerful reflectors, was thrown upon this splendid decoration, the effect was truly magnificent.

Having illustrated this volume with a murrhine vase, belonging to the House of Brunswick, and a curiously worked crystal cup, as gems of ancient production, we give here, as modern works of art, an engraving representing three superb drinking cups,--one for his Royal Highness Prince Albert, and one each for the Lord Mayors of London and York: the first is in ruby glass, a portion of the stem and base internally checquered with silver, and on the sides bearing white sunken medallions of her Majesty and the Prince Consort, and the royal arms of England. The other two cups were of the same size and shape, but, instead of being ruby and silver, the colours were emerald and silver; and on the sides were the private arms of each of the Lord Mayors, together with the usual heraldic emblazonments of the cities of London and York respectively. They were presented by the author of this work in the name of the Patent Silvered-Glass Company.

This banquet was of so interesting a nature, that we could not omit giving some particulars of it in this work; at all events, the pomp and splendour of modern times, as far as banqueting is concerned, must prove that--from the Greeks and Romans, down to the middle ages--we have not been exceeded, except, perhaps, in waste and extravagance.

The national entertainments given within the last fifty years, to commemorate striking events, are too fresh in our memory to pass them in silence.

Many persons can still remember the coronation of the Emperor Napoleon in 1805. On that occasion a grand banquet was given to all the dignitaries of the Empire and their ladies, nothing being omitted that was calculated to solemnise with sumptuosity such an event.

In 1810 the city of Paris offered to Napoleon and Maria-Louisa (Archduchess of Austria) a banquet as extraordinary as it was costly. A semicircular gallery of the Corinthian order was erected on the whole square of the Hôtel-de-Ville, where above a thousand guests joined the festival.

In 1815 a magnificent entertainment was given to the allied sovereigns by the city of London, where richness of decoration, massive gold and silver plate, and profusion of culinary rarities struck the beholder with wonder.

At the Coronation Banquet of George IV., in 1820, the old customs and privileges were ransacked to give _éclat_ to that solemnity, one of the grandest, and perhaps, the most sumptuous that ever could he imagined in ancient or modern times.

In France, in the year 1824, the coronation of Charles X. was celebrated at Rheims with royal magnificence; the banquet excited the admiration of all present. At that solemnity the Duke of Northumberland was appointed Ambassador Extraordinary from England, and few, if any, ever equalled the liberality of his Grace, or the display he made of his wealth, to represent and honour his sovereign and country at the court of Charles X. The fêtes and banquets given by his Grace--and at which the author was present--were of the most costly if not extravagant description, for we are told that the expenses of that munificent nobleman were not less than £200,000.

The grand banquets and receptions of King Louis Philippe during eighteen years exhibited too much liberality and splendour to be forgotten; and at the marriage of his eldest son, the unfortunate Duke of Orleans, Versailles presented a scene of banqueting and rejoicing unparalleled since the time of Louis XIV.

On her Majesty’s visit to the city of London a banquet was given in the Guildhall, the grandeur of which was scarcely ever exceeded, showing the loyalty, devotedness, and noble hospitality of the wealthiest commercial citizens in the world.

In 1838, at the coronation of Queen Victoria, Buckingham Palace witnessed a most elegant, chaste, and splendid banquet. The Ambassadors Extraordinary, sent from all the foreign courts, were not more conspicuous for the brilliancy of their costumes than the native nobility who graced the festive-board of the youthful Queen of Great Britain.

On this occasion a very elaborate and graceful fountain of massive gold of about three feet in height and two feet in diameter, was prominent on the royal table. It spouted four different sorts of delicious wine into as many shells, from which it dripped into four reservoirs, and was served to the guests by means of a golden ladle. This fountain can be seen, with the regalia, in the Tower of London.

On that joyful day the members of the Reform Club intrusted to our care, at Gwyrdir House, a sumptuous entertainment for fifteen hundred persons, on a scale of liberality deserving of the highest praise.

The marriage of Her Majesty with H. R. H. Prince Albert formed one of those memorable epochs to be preserved in the annals of banqueting.

The opening of the Royal Exchange, in 1846, was also one of those extraordinary days on record, where the Queen of a great nation gave proof of her sympathy in the prosperity of her merchant-princes, by presiding over a splendid entertainment to commemorate the re-establishment of that commercial edifice.

On the 3rd of July in the same year, his Highness Ibrahim Pacha, son of Mehemet Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, was entertained by the members of the Reform Club to a magnificent and most sumptuous banquet provided for two hundred guests. The author, having full scope to do honour to the invitation, provided the following liberal selection of gastronomic dishes, many of which were innovated for the occasion:--

BILL OF FARE.

_Seize Potages._

Quatre à la Victoria. Quatre à la Comte de Paris.

Quatre à la Louis Philippe. Quatre à la Colbert, aux Légumes Printaniers.

_Seize Potages._

Quatre de Turbots, Sauce à la Mazarin. Quatre de Buissons de Filets de Merlans à l’Egyptienne.

Quatre de Saumons de Severn à la Crême. Quatre de Truites Saumonées en Matelotte Marinière.

_Seize Reléves._

Quatre de Chapons à la Nelson. Quatre de Saddleback of Southdown Mouton, rôti à la Soyer.

Quatre de Poulardes en Diadême. Quatre de Saddleback d’Agneau, rôti à la Sévigné.

Baron of Beef à l’Anglaise.

Entrée Pagodatique de riz à la Luxor.

_Cinquante-quatre Entrées._

Six de Poussins Printaniers à l’Ambassadrice. Six de Côtelettes de Mouton à la Reform. Quatre de Riz de Veau piqués en Macédoine de Légumes. Quatre de Petits Vol-au-vents aux Laitances de Maquereaux. Quatre Timballes de Riz aux Quues d’Agneau. Quatre de Jambonneaux Braisés au Vin de Madère.

Quatre de Volailles Farcies à la Russe aux Légumes Verts. Quatre de Pâtées Chauds de Cailles à la Banquière. Quatre de Rissolettes à la Pompadour. Quatre de Grenadins de Bœuf à la Beyrout. Six de Côtelettes d’Agneau à la Vicomtesse, et Quatre de Turbans Epigramme de Levreau au Fumet.

_Seize Rôts._

Quatre de Turkey Poult, Piqués et Bardés. Quatre de Cannetons au Jus de Bigarades.

Quatre de Levreaux au Jus de Groseilles, et Quatre de Gros Chapons au Cresson.

_Cinquante-quatre Entremots._

Six de Gelées Macédoine de Fruits au Dantzic. Quatre Turbans de Meringues Demi-Glacées. Quatre de Charlotte Prussienne. Six de Croquantes d’Amandes aux Cerises. Quatre de Galantines à la Volière. Quatre de Mirotons de Homard à l’Indienne.

Quatre de Salades de Volaille à la Soyer. Quatre de Haricots Verts au Beurre Noisette. Six de Tartelettes Prâlinées aux Abricots. Quatre de Pain de Pêches au Noyeau. Quatre de Petite Pois à l’Anglo-Francaise, et Quatre de Gelées Cristallisées à l’Ananas.

_Relevés de Rôts._

Crème d’Egypte à l’Ibrahim Pacha. Gâteau Britannique à l’Amiral. Quatre de Jambons Glacés en Surprise. Quatre de Côtelettes en Surprise à la Reform.

Quatre de Manivaux de Champignons au Curaçao en Surprise. Deux de Meringues Chinoises-Pagoda aux Fraises.

We hardly need mention the annual entertainment which takes place on the 9th of November, when the city of London makes a king of a citizen.

In the course of the year 1844, King Louis Philippe paid a visit to her Majesty Queen Victoria at Windsor Castle, and during the time a series of banquets were given in honour of the King’s visit by her Majesty. The gold plate--worth, it is said, a million sterling--was used on that occasion. We shall not attempt to describe the extraordinary beauty of that service: the value in itself must leave the impression that nothing like it is in existence.

In the year 1848 the return of Lord Hardinge, Governor-General of India, from his glorious campaigns in the East, was solemnised by a sumptuous banquet offered to his lordship by the members of the Carlton Club.

In the year 1850 the annual meeting of the Royal Agricultural Society was held in the fine old city of Exeter, where the Society was welcomed with the most enthusiastic rejoicings, and we had the honour of being selected by the committee to provide a dinner for one thousand and fifty members. As this rustic banquet was admitted to be one of no ordinary kind we give here the general bill of fare, and a short narrative of the first attempt to roast a whole ox by gas.

GRAND AGRICULTURAL PAVILION DINNER.

[Sidenote: Baron of Beef à la Magna Charta.]

33 Dishes of Ribs of Beef. 35 Dishes of Roast Lamb. 99 Dishes of Galantine of Veal. 29 Dishes of Ham. 66 Dishes of Pressed Beef. 2 Rounds of Beef à la Garrick. 264 Dishes of Chicken. 33 French raised Pies à la Soyer. 198 Spring Mayonnaise Salad. 264 Cherry, Gooseberry, Raspberry, and Currant Tarts. 33 Exeter Puddings. 198 Dishes of Hot Potatoes.

[Sidenote: Grand Agricultural Trophy.]

Homer tells us that a royal culinary artist placed before Ajax and his voracious companions in arms a whole bullock roasted. Since those heroic ages many no doubt have shared the same fate; and we know that in this country, on the occasion of a rich heir coming of age, a roasted ox is often given to the tenants as a substantial fare, with a well-nursed butt of ale, twenty-one years old. Many can remember that in the winter of 1812 a bullock was roasted on the frozen Thames, which certainly was something to wonder at. Another monster effort was attempted at Hammersmith some years ago, but the animal, clumsily suspended from the summit of an apparatus formed of three beams, was burnt, emitted a rank smell, and did not roast. All those who have had to attend such an operation agree that it is rather an awkward affair, and not performed without great difficulties, on account of the immense fire, which requires constant attention to keep up and regulate the necessary heat,--and, after all, it is seldom entirely successful.

For the present festival, the author, who knew well the power and efficacy of gas, wished to honour the guests with a dish of _his own_, never yet attempted, and which he has entitled the “_Baron and Saddleback of Beef à la Magna Charta_.” He therefore proposed to roast a baron and saddleback of beef, weighing five hundred and thirty-five pounds, in the open air. The magistrates very willingly put the castle yard at his disposal, and it was anticipated that a large Pandemonium fire would have been seen; but, to the surprise of every one, a few bricks, without mortar, and a few sheets of iron, forming a temporary covering to a space six feet six inches in length, and three feet three inches in width, were the only appearance of an apparatus, with two hundred and sixteen very small jets of gas coming through pipes half-an-inch in diameter. It was hardly credited that such a monster joint could be properly done by such means; however, incredulity soon vanished on seeing it frizzling and steaming away; and after eight hours’ roasting it was thoroughly dressed, at a cost of less than five shillings for gas.

After having allowed it to cool it was removed, and carried by eight men through the principal streets of the ancient and loyal city of Exeter, accompanied by a band of music, playing “The Roast Beef of Old England,” and followed by thousands of the incredulous of the previous day. On its arrival at the pavilion it was deposited under the grand triumphal arch, designed and erected by the author; it was 17 feet high, and 10 feet wide, and composed of all the produce of agriculture and the farm.

The following list will give some idea of its magnitude: it consisted of--

One swan, two turkeys, four geese, four ducks, eight fowls, eight pigeons, four rabbits, one fine barn-door cock, six ox heads, four calves’ heads, two rams’ heads, two stags’ heads, two whole lambs--all natural, and in their plumage or skin--ornamented with vegetables, fruit, and flowers, viz., cabbages, turnips, potatoes, carrots, leeks, celery, rhubarb, onions, French beans, peas, asparagus, sea-kale stalks; sheaves of wheat, oats, barley; pine apples, citrons, cherries, grapes, melons, peaches, apricots, greengages, apples, gooseberries, strawberries, currants, and the choicest kinds of flowers--all being the production of the county--and surmounted by various implements of agriculture. There was also an elegant jug, ornamented with flowers, filled with clotted cream. On the top of the huge piece of beef, was placed a black pig’s head, weighing eighty pounds when killed.

It was in the recollection of many persons, that thirty-five years ago a baron of beef, weighing only two hundred and forty-two pounds was roasted in Exeter, under the superintendence of twelve blacksmiths, at their forge fire, for a banquet given at the time peace was proclaimed.

The Parisians have not forgotten the great fête of the distribution of eagles by his Majesty the Emperor of the French, on that day when he relinquished the functions of President of the Republic for a more august title. That military solemnity was followed by a splendid banquet, at which there were several thousands of guests. It would be superfluous to add, that the arrangements for that gigantic repast evinced the intelligent taste and incredible resources of imagination of our continental neighbours.

An entire volume would not suffice, if we attempted to recount all the pompous feasts which followed in succession during the last century, “the age of powder and suppers.” But we cannot pass in silence the memorable punch given in 1746 by Sir Edward Russell, Commander-in-Chief of the British forces, which can only be assimilated in point of extravagance to the great banquet of the Earl of Warwick, the description of which was extracted from the “Gastronomic Regenerator,” and reproduced in this work, page 362.

The bowl was the marble basin of a delightful garden, forming the central point of four vast avenues, bordered with orange and lemon trees. A magnificent collation was served on four immense tables, which occupied the whole length of the several avenues. The basin had been filled with four large barrels of brandy, eight barrels of filtered water, twenty-five thousand citrons, eighty pints of lemon juice, thirteen hundred weight of sugar, five pounds of nutmeg, three hundred biscuits, and a pipe of Malaga wine. An awning over the basin protected it from rain, which might have disturbed the chemical combination of the delicious beverage; and, in a charming little rose-wood boat, a cabin boy, belonging to the fleet, rowed about on the surface of the punch, ready to serve the joyous company, which numbered more than six thousand persons.[H]