Part 1

SOYER’S PANTROPHEON.

THE PANTROPHEON OR, HISTORY OF FOOD, And its Preparation, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES OF THE WORLD.

BY A. SOYER,

AUTHOR OF “The Gastronomic Regenerator” and the “Modern Housewife, or Ménagère,” &c. EMBELLISHED WITH FORTY-TWO STEEL PLATES, ILLUSTRATING THE GREATEST GASTRONOMIC MARVELS OF ANTIQUITY.

BOSTON: TICKNOR, REED, AND FIELDS. MDCCCLIII.

_The Author reserves his right of Translating this Work._

LONDON:

VIZETELLY AND COMPANY, PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS.

PETERBOROUGH COURT, FLEET STREET.

Contents.

Page

PANTROPHEON 3

I.

AGRICULTURE 9

II.

CEREALS 19

III.

GRINDING OF CORN 23

IV.

MANIPULATION OF FLOUR 30

V.

FRUMENTA 41

VI.

GRAINS: SEEDS 46

VII.

VEGETABLES 49

VIII.

DRIED VEGETABLES 53 Beans 53 Haricots 55 Peas 56 Lentils 57

IX.

KITCHEN GARDEN 59 Cabbage 60 Beet 62 Spinach 63 Mallows 64 Asparagus 64 Gourd 66 Turnips 67 Carrots 68 Blit (a sort of Beet) 68 Purslaine 68 Sorrel 69 Brocoli 69 Artichoke 70 Pompion 71 Cucumber 72 Lettuce 74 Endive 75 Onions 76 Leeks 77 Melon 77 Radish 79 Horse-Radish 80 Garlic 81 Eschalots 82 Parsley 82 Chervil 84 Water-Cresses 84

X.

PLANTS USED IN SEASONING 86 Poppy 86 Sesame 86 Sow-Thistle 87 Orach 87 Rocket 87 Fennel 88 Dill 88 Anise-Seed 88 Hyssop 88 Wild Marjoram 89 Savory 89 Thyme 89 Wild Thyme 89 Sweet Marjoram 89 Pennyroyal 90 Rue 90 Mint 90 Spanish Camomile 90 Cummin 91 Alisander 91 Capers 91 Asafœtida 91 Sumach 92 Ginger 92 Wormwood 93

XI.

FRUITS 95

XII.

STONE FRUIT 97 Olive Tree 97 Palm Tree 100 Cherry Tree 102 Apricot Tree 103 Peach Tree 104 Plum Tree 105

XIII.

PIP FRUIT 106 Quince Tree 106 Pear Tree 107 Apple Tree 108 Lemon Tree 109 Orange Tree 110 Fig Tree 112 Raspberry Tree 115 Currant Tree 115 Strawberry Plant 115 Mulberry Tree 116

XIV.

SHELL FRUIT 117 Almond Tree 117 Walnut Tree 118 Nut Tree 120 Pistachio Tree 120 Chesnut Tree 121 Pomegranate 122

XV.

ANIMAL FOOD 123 Rearing of Cattle 127 Markets 128 Butchers 129

XVI.

ANIMALS 133 The Pig 133 The Ox 142 The Lamb 146 The Kid 148 The Ass 150 The Dog 150

XVII.

POULTRY 152 The Cock 153 The Capon 154 The Hen 155 The Chicken 156 The Duck 168 The Goose 150 The Pigeon 162 The Guinea Hen 163 The Turkey Hen 168 The Peacock 166

XVIII.

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS 168 Milk 168 Butter 170 Cheese 173 Eggs 175

XIX.

HUNTING 179 The Stag 182 The Roebuck 184 The Deer 184 The Wild Boar 185 The Hare 188 The Rabbit 189 The Fox 190 The Hedgehog 190 The Squirrel 190 The Camel 190 The Elephant 191

XX.

FEATHERED GAME 193 The Pheasant 194 The Partridge 195 The Quail 196 The Thrush 197 The Blackbird 199 The Starling 200 The Flamingo 200 Fig-Pecker, or Beccafico 201 The Ortolan 203 The Ostrich 203 The Stork 204 The Sea-Swallow 204 The Wood-Hen, Bustard, Water-Hen, and Teal 206 The Woodcock, Snipe, Curlew, Crow, Turtle Dove, and Lark 207

XXI.

FISH 210 Sturgeon 216 Red Mullet 218 Sea-Eel 220 Lamprey 222 Sea-Wolf 223 Scarus, or Parrot-Fish 223 Turbot 224 Tunny 225 Conger-Eel 226 Eel 227 Pike 228 Carp 229 Eel-Pout 229 Trout 230 Gold Fish 230 Whiting 230 Cod Fish 231 Perch 232 Scate 233 Salmon 233 Sepia, or Cuttle-Fish 234 Swordfish 234 Shad 234 Rhombo, or Rhombus 235 Mugil 235 Mackerel 235 Haddock 236 Tench 236 Dragon Weaver 237 Loligo 237 Sole 237 Angel-Fish 237 File-Fish 237 Pilchard 238 Loach 238 Gudgeon 238 Herring 239 Anchovy 240

SHELL-FISH 241 Oysters 242 Sea-Hedgehog 245 Mussel 245 Scallop 246 Tortoise 246 Sea-Crawfish 247 Lobster 247 River Crayfish 248 Crab 248 Frogs 249

XXII.

THE COOK 251

THE KITCHEN 259

XXIII.

SEASONINGS 266 Salt 267 Brine 268 Digestive Salts 269 Garum 269 Honey 273 Sugar 275 Cinnamon 275 Cloves 276 Pepper 277 Verjuice 277 Vinegar 278 Truffle 279 Mushrooms 282

XXIV.

PASTRY 284

XXV.

WATER 293

XXVI.

BEVERAGES 299 Tea 306 Coffee 310 Chocolate 312

XXVII.

DRINKING CUPS 316

XXVIII.

WINE 322

LIQUEUR WINE 332

XXIX.

REPASTS 339

XXX.

VARIETY OF REPASTS 354

XXXI.

THE DINING-ROOM 363

XXXII.

THE TABLE 368

THE TABLE SEATS 372

XXXIII.

THE SERVANTS 376

XXXIV.

THE GUESTS 380

XXXV.

A ROMAN SUPPER 386

BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES 399

MODERN BANQUETS 401

TABLE OF REFERENCES 413

TABLE OF RECIPES 444

INDEX 449

List of Illustrations.

Page PLATE A.

FRONTISPIECE--PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR.

PLATE B.

HEAVEN AND EARTH.

PLATE B.*

VICTUA, OR THE GODDESS OF GASTRONOMY.

PLATE I.

EGYPTIAN LABOURERS.--No. 1, Egyptian Labourer. No. 2, Sketch of a Plough. No. 3, Basket. No. 4, Egyptian with Sickle, drawn by Horses 12

PLATE II.

GREEK AND ROMAN PLOUGHS.--Nos. 1 and 2, Greek and Roman Ploughs. No. 3, Plough, turned once or twice. No. 4, Plough, as used by the Gauls 14

PLATE III.

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS.--No. 1, Plain Sickle. No. 2A, Plough, from the Georgics of Virgil. No. 3, Scythe. No. 4, Spade. No. 5, Pick-axe. Nos. 6 and 7, Mattocks 16

PLATE IV.

ALCINOUS’S HAND-MILL 25

PLATE V.

JUMENTARIÆ MILLS 26

PLATE VI.

PLAUTUS’S HAND-MILL 27

PLATE VII.

CAPPADOCIA BREAD.--No. 1, Loaf of Bread. No. 2, Pastry Mould. No. 3, Cappadocia Bread. No. 4, Mould for ditto 38

PLATE VIII.

SCALES AND WEIGHTS 130

PLATE IX.

VARRO’S AVIARY 198

PLATE X.

APICIUS AND EPICURUS 201

PLATE XI.

REMAINS OF KITCHEN STOVES.--No. 1, Kitchen Stove. No. 2. Stock Pot. No. 3, Ditto. No. 4, Ladles. No. 5, Brazier 259

PLATE XII.

STOCK POTS AND BROKEN STEWPAN 261

PLATE XIII.

KITCHEN UTENSILS.--No. 1, Boiler, of Bronze. No. 2, Flat Saucepan. No. 3, Kettle. No. 4, Gridiron. No. 5, Trivet 262

PLATE XIV.

CHAFING-DISH AND SILVER CUP.--No. 1, Chafing-Dish. No. 2, Silver Cup 263

PLATE XV.

SPOON, FORK, KNIFE, SIMPULUM, &c.--No. 1, Roman Silver Spoon. No. 2, Brass Knife. No. 3, Simpulum. No. 4, Ditto. No. 5, Fork 264

PLATE XVI.

ROMAN SILVER KNIFE-HANDLE, SILVER SPOON, AND DEEP DISH.--No. 1, Silver Knife-handle. No. 2, Spoon. No. 3, Dish 265

PLATE XVII.

ROMAN AND EGYPTIAN PAILS.--No. 1, Pail, of Bronze. No. 2, Pail, with Two Handles (Egyptian) 297

PLATE XVIII.

DRINKING-CUPS.--No. 1, Drinking-Cups (Shaded). No. 2, Ditto, Pig’s Head and Dog’s Head 316

PLATE XVIII.A

DRINKING-CUPS.--No. 3, Ram’s Head. No. 4, Boar’s Head 317

PLATE XIX.

DRINKING-HORNS.--Nos. 1 and 2, Drinking-Horns. No. 3, Horn, Aztec’s Head 318

PLATE XX.

CRYSTAL VASE 319

PLATE XXI.

MURRHIN CUP 321

PLATE XXII.

RELICS FROM HERCULANEUM.--No. 1, Wine Press. No. 2, Diogenes. No. 3, Beast of Burthen (a toy) 325

PLATE XXIII.

COLUM NIVARUM 327

PLATE XXIV.

VESSELS FOR HOLDING WINE.--No. 1, Amphora. Nos. 2 and 3, Smaller Dolium. No. 4, Long-neck Bottle 328

PLATE XXV.

VASES FOR WINE.--No. 1, Large Vase. No. 2, Glass Vase. No. 3, Glass Bottle, with Cup 363

PLATE XXVI.

VASES FOR WINE.--No. 1, Glass Vase. No. 2, Ditto. No. 3, Etruscan, Three Handles. No. 4, Large Silver Vase. No. 5, Cantharus 364

PLATE XXVI.A

CURIOUS ORNAMENTAL TERRA-COTTA CUPS.--No. 1, Goose. No. 2, Teapot. No. 3, Jupiter’s Head 365

PLATE XXVI.B

HOUSE OF BRUNSWICK’S VASE 366

PLATE XXVII.

VASES FOR WINE.--No. 1, Etruscan Flat Vase. No. 2, Marble Vase. No. 3, Metal Vase. No. 4, Greek Etruscan Drinking Vase 370

PLATE XXVIII.

PROCILLATORES AND TRICLINIUM.--No. 1, Procillatores. No. 2, Triclinium 378

PLATE XXIX. ROMAN SUPPER 386

PLATE XXX.

No. 1, Greek Etruscan Vase. No. 2, Greek Terra-Cotta Vase. No. 3, Etruscan Terra-Cotta Vase. No. 4, Glass Amphora, for Falernian Wine. No. 5, Terra-Cotta Amphora, for Falernian Wine 390

PLATE XXX.*

CRATER, OR DRINKING CUP 391

PLATE XXXI.

No. 1, Curious Silver Dish. Nos. 2 and 3, Silver ditto 392

PLATE XXXII.

NERO AND HELIOGABALUS 398

PLATE XXXIII.

YORK BANQUET 404

PLATE XXXIV.

WILD BOAR A LA TROYENNE, AND THE HUNDRED GUINEA DISH 406

PLATE XXXV.

THREE SILVERED GLASS CUPS 407

THIS WORK

Is Dedicated by the Author

TO THE

GENIUS OF GASTRONOMY.

PANTROPHEON.

“I did feast with Cæsar.” SHAKSPERE.--“_Julius Cæsar_,” Act iii., _Sc._ 3.

“Dis-moi, ce que tu manges, Je te dirai ce que tu es.” BRILLAT-SAVARIN.--“_Physiologie du Goût._”