Part 3

It's like having your cake and eating it, too! Residents and tourists on Padre Island and in the Valley can enjoy the indulgences of modern life in growing cities. Yet, if they want to take a step into the past to arrest the tempo of contemporary living, they can cross the border into Mexico's picturesque towns and villages. These border towns are the gateways to the great Mexican cities of Monterrey, Saltillo, Guadalajara, Mexico City and other interior points. Visits to the border cities are uncomplicated by red tape. Short stops are necessary at customs offices at both sides of the river.

Across the Rio Grande from Brownsville is one of the largest border towns, MATAMOROS, a wealthy metropolis of one hundred thousand people. Here, there is a beautiful modern residential section. THE FRENCH OPERA HOUSE was built a century ago at the whim of Empress Carlotta, during the French occupation of Mexico. The unusual floor was constructed to be tilted so all could see the stage, or levelled when the building served as a ballroom. As one moves off the International Bridge at Matamoros, the elaborate mansions of the Mexican cotton and oil barons dominate the landscape with their architectural blends of ultra modern and traditional Spanish design. Hundreds of curio shops invite the tourists to buy anything from a live goat to a five hundred dollar pair of boots. As in many Mexican cities, the life of the community throbs around the market place, which is afire with color. There is always activity, with strolling musicians and romantic couples. Higher than any of the other buildings, the ancient cathedrals tower mystically over the town's gaiety. In Matamoros are diversions distinctly different from any of those in the United States; exciting cockfights, famous matadors performing in the Plaza de Toros; there are concerts, attractive night clubs with excellent entertainment, restaurants serving wildgame dinners. A menu, in some of the border night clubs, for a tab of about two dollars per person, includes venison, cabrito (young goat), quail, wild duck, white-wing dove, guacamole salad, beans, fried rice and hot peppers. Then there are traditional promenades of young people in the plaza too. An afternoon at a bullfight is an unforgettable mixture of tradition and fearful thrills as matadors of Mexico and Spain compare thrusts.

PROGRESSO AND NUEVO PROGRESSO are immediately south of the Valley cities of Mercedes and Weslaco. Here cafes and curio shops beckon the tourists. A few miles to the south the city of RIO BRAVO, with its dirt streets and primitive peoples, offers a glimpse into a way of life that is rapidly vanishing.

REYNOSA is situated across the river at a point opposite McAllen, and is noted for its gay night life. From here the visitor may visit romantic Monterrey, Mexico, just three hours away over a modern paved highway. In Reynosa's central market places are examples of native crafts from all parts of Mexico; famous ceramics of Guadalajara and Puebla, painted gourd bowls and fantastic masks from Michoacan, beautiful hand-woven serapes and stoles and beautifully wrought guitars and other musical instruments from the little villages in the highly isolated wooded areas. On Sundays and special holidays bullfights are also staged.

This prosperous, bustling Mexican city was founded in 1749. Its famous Anzalduas Canal, large as a river, runs through the city parallel to the Rio Grande. Although its old cathedrals and plazas remain unchanged, Reynosa has been one of Mexico's fastest growing cities since the discovery of oil in the area.

The historic towns of CAMARGO and MIER slumber on the south bank of the Rio Grande across from Rio Grande City and Roma. Mier was founded in 1763 and was the site of the famous "black bean episode of the Mier Expedition." An American party of one hundred and seventy invaded Mexico and were captured by two thousand Mexicans on Christmas Eve, 1842. A drawing was held among the prisoners. Those drawing white beans were spared by order of the Mexican commander. The one in ten who drew a black bean faced the firing squad. The battle-scarred Mier church has an altar and ceiling of carved wood imported many years ago from Spain.

In five locations modern bridges take the tourist into the old world enchantment of another civilization.

_Fun Calendar_

The holiday spirit, like the tropical warmth, never really seems to leave Padre Island and the Rio Grande Valley. All year long there is something going on that creates crowds, costumes, parades and a spirit of excitement and fun. "Come, be gay with us," the slogan of Brownsville's Charro Days sums up the fun calendar.

A colorful pageant called BUCCANEER DAYS is held annually in the spring in Corpus Christi. Visitors and natives are requested to dress in pirate costumes. Spectacular events include a parade of floats, water pageant, bathing beauty review, fashion shows, street dances, a square dance festival, and a huge show at Buccaneer Stadium with a treasure chest of prizes.

In Brownsville, CHARRO DAYS, the four day pre-Lenten festival in the Mexican tradition, features parades, street dances and colorful displays of merchandise. This whirl of color in motion combines the cultural elements of both Mexico and Texas. Here the population of Brownsville and Matamoros, meet attired in costumes of Latin America. Thousands of charmingly attired children steal the show in the children's parade.

MEXICAN INDEPENDENCE DAY, the across-the-border celebration on September sixteenth, includes serenades in the plaza, street dances, parties and elaborate fireworks, parades, imaginative decorations, games, colored lanterns, and great glowing crepe paper globes filled with smoke that are released to float over the city. At the Charro rodeo the cowboys demonstrate their fine horsemanship and courage in the competitions. Bullfights are staged on special holidays. Tourists from all parts of the nation come to watch the beautiful girls and handsome boys participate in the courtship promenade known as the _serenata_, the young ladies walking clockwise and the young men counterclockwise.

January brings the CITRUS FIESTA to Mission, Texas, which offers a highly unusual fashion show, golf tournament, coronation parade and a Queen's ball. The models wear costumes fashioned from products of the Valley, such as bougainvillaea blossoms and orange peels. The effect is surprisingly beautiful.

The TURISTA FIESTA in Harlingen features high school bands parading from both sides of the border, fashion shows, miniature golf and shuffleboard tournaments, fishing competition, beauty contests, crowning of a queen and king, and barbecue for everybody. Also in Harlingen is the nationally famous "LIFE BEGINS AT FORTY" invitational golf tournament, held on the Municipal Golf Course every February. It offers a full week of entertainment, with trips to Padre Island and Mexico. Of course, players are limited to those over forty. In June, Harlingen holds the COTTON FESTIVAL when the nation's first bale is harvested usually in the Mission area.

At Mercedes, the RIO GRANDE VALLEY LIVESTOCK SHOW AND WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP RODEO every March offers stars from the entertainment world, big names from the rodeo circuit, marching bands, and an opportunity to view prize cattle and livestock of all kinds. The Future Farmers of America play a big role in this show.

At Port Isabel, the BLESSING OF THE SHRIMP FLEET ceremony is held each summer during the SHRIMP FIESTA, when the participants in the multi-million dollar industry pause to pay tribute to the men who earn their livelihood from the sea. After the serious theme of the blessing of the fleet, a water parade of shrimp trawlers in holiday attire initiates the gaiety of the fiesta. This blessing dates back to earliest Christian times, and has long been an important rite to the shrimpers. At this time the TEXAS INTERNATIONAL FISHING TOURNAMENT offers three full days of competitive fishing.

The WESLACO BIRTHDAY PARTY, held in early September, marks the anniversary of the city's founding. A feature is Tourist Day, with special attractions planned to appeal to winter tourists.

In Pharr, the VALLEY VEGETABLE SHOW in December draws travelers from all over the country to see the unbelievably oversized, early ripening displays of colorful vegetables.

Many smaller festivals keep things lively during the year. At Edinburg BRONCO DAYS are held in November and PAN AMERICAN DAYS in the spring. An ONION FESTIVAL is held in Raymondville. At McAllen a FOURTH OF JULY celebration always closes with a gala bullfight in Reynosa, Mexico. At Los Fresnos an annual fiesta includes a full scale SOCIETY HORSE SHOW held in midsummer, which draws entries and visitors from all over the United States.

Second Picture Section

_Playfolk and Sportsmen_

On Padre Island, and in the surrounding Rio Grande Valley, are many and varied forms of recreation. Between Padre and the Texas coast lie the teeming waters of the famous Laguna Madre, where many varieties of fish await to challenge the fisherman. Whether he prefers fishing in the bay, from the jetties, surf fishing or deep sea fishing, this area provides many thrilling catches for the sportsman.

Boats may be chartered for personal use or an individual may join one of the party-boats that make daily runs. Twenty miles out of Port Isabel, for instance, the red snapper catch is so well assured that many skippers don't charge if their guests fail to return with some.

Laguna Madre is a natural spawning ground for many varieties of fish, such as trout, flounder, redfish, croaker, whiting, sheephead, snook, drum, ladyfish, and the jackcravelle, who loves to break rods, tear up reels and take lures away.

Already two hundred and seventy-two varieties of salt water fish have been pulled from the waters around Padre, and more than eight hundred varieties are believed to exist within convenient boating distance. Thirty-eight varieties of game fish alone are contained in the surrounding waters.

For the fisherman who prefers a lure, advice from Padre Island is, "Fish, like men, are attracted by an extra bit of finery; those little frills that transform the ordinary into a ravishing dish so delectable that they can't be ignored. Flirt with the fish; doll up your hook. Sheath a common hook in the latest styles of feather, set it off with just the right touch of glittering metal, and often the fish just can't resist it. A pork rind, one of the most widely used baits, can be added to a spoon with devastating effect. It improves the action of the wobbling spoon and will often produce strikes when nothing seems to do the trick."

One of the most interesting natural features of the Padre Island area is its proximity to the only truly deep area in the entire Gulf of Mexico, Sigsbee's Deep. There can be little doubt that the nearness of this enormous body of deep blue water is a direct factor in creating the mild weather conditions and bountiful marine life in the area.

Skin diving is rapidly growing in popularity as a sport at Padre. Favorite targets for the spear fishermen off Padre Island are ling, jewfish, snapper, redfish, trout, flounder, mackerel and sheepshead. Divers bring to light some of the secrets of the Gulf floor--as well as tackle boxes and debris from wrecked ships.

Although fishing is year round, excellent hunting is seasonal. During the fall and winter, Laguna Madre and nearby inland waters are filled with migratory waterfowl. Yours for the bagging are redhead, pintail, canvasback, teal and blue-bill ducks, Canadian and white-front geese, mourning doves and whitewing doves, and bobwhites.

Deer and javelina, sometimes known as the peccary, are easily hunted on one and two day camping trips in the Rio Grande Valley.

For the simpler sports, hikers can enjoy a trip down the hard-packed sand beach of Padre or explore the thousands of sand dunes. Treasure hunting is also a funtime sport.

Camping out doesn't necessitate any quantity of stream-lined equipment. Most of the time one can sleep under the stars with no fear of rain or cold weather. The broad expanse of room provides plenty of activity for children, while adults may relax and enjoy the sea breezes.

Artists frequently dot the beach to catch the vivid colors on their canvasses, so inspiring is the natural beauty of sea and sand.

Romping in the Gulf is considered safe because of long reaches of shallow water. The towns of the Valley offer golfing, auto races, horseback riding, wrestling, bowling, roller skating and swimming in the modern resort hotel and motel pools. Each year a Walkathon is held on Padre Island, in which the contestants must restrict their gait to a walk in covering the distance of the length of the island. Organized treasure hunts, fishing and golf tournaments, add to the island's fun facilities.

ISLA BLANCA PARK, on the southernmost section of the island, has ample room and facilities including beach cabañas, bathhouse and sundeck, many provisions for recreation, and a picturesque seaside restaurant. An elaborate FUNORAMA for the children features a train ride with streamlined diesel models.

Because of the good nature of the weather, most of the water sports are enjoyed the year round.

_Padre's Promise_

There seems to be little doubt that Padre Island will quickly take its place as one of the nation's outstanding recreational spots. With only three semitropical beach areas in the United States, the southern parts of Florida, California, and Texas, Padre is the largest and last undeveloped warm water beach area left. On Valentine's Day, 1954, the beautiful Queen Isabella Causeway opened at the southern tip of the island.

The climate is as good as Miami's, and it is blessed with one of the finest white sand beaches in the world. Laguna Madre is a natural water sports basin, and the deep sea fishing in the Gulf of Mexico is already world famous.

Padre Island's principal developer, John L. Tompkins, whose grandfather marched down Padre with Taylor's army during the Mexican War in 1846, is known locally as "Mr. Padre Island," and has focused international attention on the area's resort possibilities.

When Padre Island's future as a National Seashore Park began to be considered in Congress, a popular song, called "Come with me to Padre Island," was dedicated to the island. It was composed and recorded by your author, Loraine Daly of San Antonio, Texas, and Carl Johnson of Dallas, Texas. It served to introduce this little-known tropical island to many who were not acquainted with it.

Envisioned in the island's near-term future are a marina, a king-sized aquarium--where the public can view marine life--and an oceanographic laboratory.

Brownsville, which neighbors the southern tip of Padre, has long been known as the gateway to Latin America. None of us can deny the significance of having one of our brightest resort areas right at the doorstep of the entrance to our country.

_Bibliography_

Ferguson, Harvey, _Rio Grande_, A. A. Knopf, New York, 1933.

Gilpin, Laura, _The Rio Grande_, Duell, Sloan and Pearce, New York, 1949.

Hockaday, J. A., Article in the Port Isabel _Press_, June 26, 1959.

Hogner, Dorothy Childs, _South to Padre_, Lothrop, Lee and Shepard, New York, 1936.

Horgan, Paul, _Great River: The Rio Grande in North American History_, Rinehart, New York, 1917.

Kelsey, Anna Marietta, _Through the Years_, The Naylor Company, San Antonio, 1952.

Lewis, Tracy Hammond, _Along the Rio Grande_, Lewis, New York, 1916.

Lott, Virgil N., _People and Plots on the Rio Grande_, The Naylor Company, San Antonio, 1957.

McKenna, Verna Jackson, _Old Point Isabel Lighthouse_, Harlingen, Texas, 1956.

Pierce, Frank Cushman, _A Brief History of the Rio Grande Valley_, George Banks, Menasha, Wisconsin, 1917.

Purcell, Anita, Ed., _Frontier Mexico: 1875-1894 (The Letters of William L. Purcell)_, The Naylor Company, San Antonio, 1962.

Reese, Pauline, _The History of Padre Island_, Master's Thesis, Texas College of Arts and Industries, Kingsville, Texas.

Stambaugh, J., _The Lower Rio Grande Valley of Texas_, The Naylor Company, San Antonio, 1954.

_Writer's Round Table--Padre Island_, The Naylor Company, San Antonio, 1950.

Transcriber's Notes

--Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

--Silently corrected a few palpable typos.

--In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.