Part 6

We must not omit to advert to the total expense of an Overland journey, for it is an important question to all who _must_ go to India. We think it will be found, on a fair calculation, that this is, by no means, so much in excess of the cost round the Cape of Good Hope as people are led to imagine.

Independently of the cost, there are other important points worthy of consideration, which are frequently forgotten by those who suffer themselves to be engrossed by the mere pecuniary view of the question. For example, there is an amazing difference in the _time_ consumed in the two routes. Proceeding Overland, there will be two months gained which may be either passed at home, or, if the attractions of England have ceased, can be employed in anticipating the stipulated period of a return to, or arrival in India. In the latter case--for we presume the traveller to be in the East India Company's service--the Indian pay will be received two months sooner, and what is of greater moment, by far, two months' time is gained in "actual service," a consideration which, at some future day, may be of the last importance to the civil or military officer.

If to these advantages we add the difference in the cost of the equipment for a six weeks' and a four months' trip; the knowledge acquired by witnessing variety of scenery and diversity of manners; the effect on the health and spirits of perpetual change; the slight risk of delays from accidental want of water and provisions, damage in gales of wind, and other casualties which often drive sailing vessels into intermediate ports and prolong their voyage, there can, we should think, be no difference of opinion as to the superior claims of the Overland Route.

As the nature of the currency with which the traveller should supply himself is a question of great importance, we consider it within our province to remark, that sovereigns are, by far, the best coin that can be carried, for purposes of general supply. Letters of credit may be obtained, however, to be used in the event of accident rendering additional funds necessary; but it is prudent to endeavour to avoid a resort to them, for the exchange and commission on advances made upon such letters of credit, subject the drawer to considerable loss, an observation that applies particularly to Egypt. At Ceylon the sovereign is at a premium, frequently fetching twenty-one shillings.

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MISCELLANEOUS.

For the information of such travellers as purpose varying their journey, by visiting the various places which occur _en route_, we subjoin the following particulars:--

_England to Gibraltar, by the Peninsular Steamers, calling at Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz._--These steamers start from Southampton on the 7th, 17th, and 27th of every month, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. They proceed, in the first instance, to Vigo, to land the mails for that part of Spain, affording to the traveller a view of the magnificent scenery of Vigo Bay and the Bayona Islands. Thence the steamer proceeds close along the coast, which presents a splendid panoramic view of "mount and dale," with numerous towns and villages interspersed, until she arrives off Oporto, where she stops to land mails and passengers, but does not enter the port. The passengers, however, will have a good view of the Fortress of San Joa da Foz, the Convent of the Sierra at Villa Nova, &c., so celebrated in the war between Don Pedro and Don Miguel; also the city of Oporto, which looks very picturesque from the sea. Leaving Oporto, she holds her course on for Lisbon, and, passing the Burlings Rocks, and Rock of Lisbon, will enter the Tagus generally on the fourth day from leaving Southampton.

_Lisbon, &c._--The view of Lisbon, on entering the Tagus, is beautiful beyond description. The steamer usually remains here a day, before starting again on her passage southward for Cadiz and Gibraltar, and this will enable travellers to take a cursory view of the Lusitanian capital; but it is recommended that they should, if time permits, stop ten days here, proceeding to Cadiz or Gibraltar by the following steamer.

There are very good hotels now at Lisbon, and the town is greatly improved in cleanliness, no longer deserving the character for filth, &c., bestowed upon it by Lord Byron and others. Among the various interesting excursions which may be made in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, of course the spot where

"Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes, In variegated maze of mount and glen,"

will not be forgotten, and will amply repay the trouble of a visit.

From Lisbon to Cadiz the passage is made, in ordinary circumstances, in about twenty-six to thirty hours, and from Cadiz to Gibraltar in about eight hours.

_Cadiz, Seville, &c._--The steamer remains at Cadiz only from three to four hours; but even this will enable the passenger to see the principal part of the town, which is exceedingly clean and handsome; and its appearance in approaching the bay of Cadiz singularly beautiful and striking. If the traveller can afford to stop for the next steamer, he may make an excursion to Seville, between which and Cadiz steamers run almost daily. Xerez de la Frontera, and Puerto de Santa Maria, with the extensive _Bodejas_ of the wine merchants, are also well worthy of a visit.

At Gibraltar, the steamer on the Indian line will receive the traveller and convey him to Malta. In forming a calculation, it will be prudent to reckon on having not less than seven or more than nine days' stay at each place, provided it be intended to go forward by the next steamer. Again, should a party desire to remain a fortnight in Egypt, previous to joining the steamer at Suez, he can be accommodated by the Peninsular and Oriental Company, who will convey him to Alexandria, and cause him to be taken up by the vessel on the Indian side at any later period.

The additional cost of a stoppage at any of the intermediate places would depend upon the tastes, habits and means of the traveller; it need not be much, and, to a party of friends proceeding thus, the journey, at the proper season, would be instructive and delightful.

From Malta the traveller can diverge to Constantinople; or a few hours will take him to any of the chief points of interest, either in Italy or Greece. It would far exceed our limits to give details of all the various trips that _might_ be made from so central a point as Malta; luckily, however, there is no want of guide-books to classic ground--indeed, from the nature of the subject, any such guide, to be really useful, must in itself be much larger than the present volume.

Correct information as to the means of locomotion will be furnished by Mr. Holton, the Peninsular Company's Agent at Malta, who can advise the traveller how to save much valuable time, and also how to avoid trouble and expense.

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A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT.

In a previous page we have pointed out the principal objects of interest in the vicinity of Cairo and Alexandria, which are accessible in the ordinary transit through Egypt. In the event, however, of a prolonged residence in that country, either from necessity or choice, the list of _videnda_ may manifestly be much extended.

Supposing the traveller, then, to start from Cairo, after inspecting the pyramids and other sights near that city, he can, by application to an agent on the spot, procure a boat, well supplied with provisions, &c., and proceed a considerable distance up the Nile. We have stated elsewhere that there is little besides the Pacha's palace, Pompey's pillar, and Cleopatra's needle, to be seen at and in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, and therefore call the attention of the sojourner in Egypt to the interesting antiquities he will have an opportunity of examining on the borders of the Nile. Should he purpose limiting his trip to a fortnight, in order to be in time for the packet from Suez or Alexandria, it must be borne in mind that he can only visit a few of the places mentioned below, and must make arrangements accordingly; but, in case he should desire to extend his travels, we subjoin some notes from the best authorities, of the manifold wonders to be seen on the banks of the mighty Nile, and, if the reader require even further information, we commend to his perusal the admirable work on Egypt by Sir Gardiner Wilkinson.

The great pyramid of Sacarah contains a small chamber with a few hieroglyphics, differing in this respect from all others. The arched tombs (now nearly destroyed) proving the pre-Augustan existence of the masonic arch, is of the time of Psammeticus II., about B.C. 604.

Mit Raheny, a large colossus of Rameses II., the supposed Sesostris. Mounds and indistinct remains of Memphis. On the right bank are the quarries from which a portion of the stones for the pyramids were drawn. In one part, oxen are represented drawing a block placed on a sledge. A little to the south of the modern village is an inclined plane, leading from the quarries to the river.

Thirty miles farther to the south, at Atfeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, but without ruins.

Left bank, false pyramid (Meidoum), difficult of access, on account of the canal.

Three miles beyond Feohm, and on the opposite side (right bank), remains of crude brick walls, with hieroglyphics on the bricks.

Right bank, eight miles N. of Meneijeh, is Fehnah, the ancient Acoris. Greek Ptolemaic inscription. Tombs cut in the rock with inscriptions. Roman figures in high relief. Quarries on top of mountain, with a tank for water.

Right bank, seven miles beyond Meneijeh, is Rohn Ahman, some grottoes and ruins of an old town.

Nine miles farther (right bank) Beni Hassan; remarkably interesting grottoes of the time of Osortixen (about B.C. 1740), in whose reign it is calculated that Joseph arrived in Egypt. The plans, explanatory of the trades, amusements, domestic arrangements, &c., of the ancient Egyptians, merit particular attention. In the columns of the best grotto we recognise the _Doric Order_. In the entablature over the doorway, observe that the ends of rafters are sculptured, instead of mutules and tryglyphs.

About a mile and a half S. is another grotto, a temple of Pasht, Bubastis, or Diana, the _Speos Artemidos_ (date Thotmeh III., 15th century B.C.) The Speos is known by the name of _Stable Antar_. Near it are deposited cat mummies.

Right bank, at Shekh Abadeh, are a few remains of _Antinöe_, built by Adrian. The principal streets may be traced, as well as the hippodrome, towards the east, out of the walls. Grottoes in rock, &c.

This whole district has been famous for thieves, from the time of Bruce to the present day.

Right bank. El Rasheth, grotto in the mountain, with a statue represented on a sledge.

The ruins of Hermopolis, at Ashmonnoyn, have been destroyed.

The Pacha's sugar-factory at E'Roamoon merits a visit.

Left bank. Ibayda, at the corner of the mountain, crude brick walls, and some grottoes not very remarkable.

After Shekh Said, the mountains go off to the E., leaving the river. A little beyond is Til el Amama, to the S. of which are the ruins of an ancient town, of which only the brick houses remain.

To the S. are grottoes in the mountain, with curious sculpture, and upon the mountain is an alabaster quarry. The sculptures represent a king and queen offering and praying to the sun, which shoots forth rays terminating in human hands, one of which gives the emblem of life to the king.

Six miles before Maufalouat, at El Hareib, are ruins of an old town in a ravine, in which are dog and cat mummies.

Near Maabdeh, opposite Maufalouat, are crocodile mummy-pits, difficult of access and dangerous.

E'Siout, the capital of the Said, and standing on the site of Lycopolis, merits a visit. The gardens are celebrated. Visit the grottoes in the mountain, if it be only to enjoy the beautiful view, which is, perhaps, unequalled in Egypt. The mummies of the wolf are occasionally found.

The remains of the splendid temple of Antaopolis have been sapped and carried away by the stream. A few stones only serve to point out its site at Gau (right bank).

Right bank. Shekh Eredi, where a Moslem saint, transformed into the form of a serpent, still performs very wonderful cures upon those who can pay. Some small grottoes on the left bank. To the west, Loohag, near the corner of the mountain, are remains of Athribi. Inscription in stone, in a ruined temple. Grottoes in the mountain.

To the west of this is the white monastery, Deira-bow Sehwoodee. It has very much the appearance of an Egyptian temple, having a cornice and tomb, and is supposed to have been founded by the Empress Helena. Like the other Deirs, it is inhabited by Christian peasants.

Right bank. At Ekhmin, nearly opposite Loohag, are remains of Panopolis. A large mass of stone contains a Greek inscription of the temple of Pan.

Left bank. Menshie, eight miles beyond Ekhmin, remains of a stone quarry. Ptolemais Hermii.

Left bank. Abydus, three hours' ride from Girgeh, and two hours from Bellianeh. Take donkeys at Girgeh and send the boat on to Bellianeh. When last at Abydus, I was entertained for the night at the "Deir," to the north or north-west of the village. The most remarkable monument is what Strabo has described as a "Memnonium," a very singular building, consisting of several parallel arches or arcades, leading, he says, to a tank, now concealed. The arches are _not_ masonic, but cut out of large masses of stone and it is this circumstance which has, in a great measure, given rise to the error, as to the arch not having existed previous to the Augustan era. The building was begun by Osirien, the father of Sesostris, and finished by his son.

To the north of the Memnonium, is the small temple of Osiris, built, or at least finished, by Ramses II., and remarkable for having a sanctuary made of alabaster, for the reception of the famous tablet of the kings, which, next to the Rosetta stone, has been of the greatest assistance to the students of hieroglyphics. The Necropolis has been robbed to form the collections of Salt, Drouetti, and others.

Right bank. How (Diospolis parva)--few remains--vestiges of a temple of late date, and about a mile and a half to the S., of other mounds.

Left bank. Dendera (Tentyris) opposite Genneh. The principal temple was consecrated to Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, and not to Isis. The most interesting, as well as most ancient sculptures, are outside, at the western extremity, where we see Cleopatra and her son Casasion. The sculptures above are of the time of Augustus, as are those of the lateral walls of the Naos. The pronaos presents the portraits and names of Caius, Claudius, and Nero, as well as Tiberius, by whom it was constructed. The pylon, leading to the temple, is of the time of Domitian and Trajan. The Peripteral temple to the right, is the Typhonium, and immediately behind the great temple is a small one consecrated to Isis. The pylon towards the south is connected with the latter, and was raised in the reign of Augustus. The walls of the town, and a second wall for the sacred edifices, may be traced, and there are, I believe, some tombs in the mountain behind the town, that have not been properly explored.

Right bank. Quoph, the ancient Coptas--ruins of town and temple--small Roman-Egyptian temple, in the village of El Qalah, towards the N., forming once a part of Coptas, (Qoos, Apollinopolis parva). No more remains left, but a monolith converted into a tank, and to the north of the town is a well.

Thebes (_Diospolis magna_), on the eastern side, consisting of Karnak and Luxor: the _Lybian Suburb_ on the west bank, consisting of Gormah, Medinet Haboo, the tombs of the kings, queens, &c.

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KARNAK.--At least fifteen centuries combined to raise the great temple, the different ages of the various portions of the edifice being distinctly traceable, from the time of Osortiren I. (B. C. 1740) to the Ptolemies. On approaching the great western propylon, observe the holes (almost like windows, and by some described as such) for fixing the _flag-masts_, as well as the recesses below, in which they were planted. After looking at the great hall of columns, and the obelisks, &c., notice particularly the granite sanctuary, which is a restoration of one destroyed by the Persians. It was raised by Alexander, in compliance with a vow of Philip. On the _sandstone_ wall that encloses and protects this sanctuary, observe (north wall) a very curious and rich offering, in which a Pharaoh presents to the temple, obelisks, flag-masts, gold, silver, &c. The sculptures deserve particular attention. Those on the outside of the southern wall relate to the conquests of Shishah, who plundered the temple of Jerusalem. The name of the place (Joudamallah) is legible on a cartouche,--one of thirty led captives before the god of Thebes.

The whole north wall is covered with historical sculptures, all of which were originally painted, representing the conquests of Osirien, the father of Sesostris. Some little attention is required to see them well. One group is more curious than the rest: the king has caught his adversary with the bow-string, and is decapitating him. Notice the triumphal return to Thebes, and remark the Nile (distinguished by crocodiles) with a bridge thrown across it.

To the south of the great temple is a _tank_, then come several immense propyla, part of an avenue of sphinxes, and lastly some remains of a considerable temple which was surrounded by a lake.

To the north are other remains, with a handsome propylon of Ptolemaic date, and an avenue of sphinxes.

The temple, second in importance at Karnak, is of the Pharaonic period, but approached by a pylon of Ptolemaic date, at the extremity of the great avenue of sphinxes leading to Luxor. On the right of the first or hypoetheral court, notice a sculpture illustrating the manner in which the _flag masts_ were raised before the temples. Adjoining this temple, and on its west side, is a small temple of Oph, in which travellers sometimes lodge.

From Karnak to Luxor, it is easy to trace the line of sphinxes, which connected the palace of the latter with the temples of the former.

_Luxor_, with the exception of the sanctuary, is entirely Pharaonic, having been founded by Amanoph III., and finished by Rameses II., in the 15th century B.C. The granite sanctuary, like that of Karnak, is a restoration, and of the same age. In one of the halls, approachable from the river side, observe a curious set of sculptures, relative to the birth of the founder of the palace. His mother, the queen, is seated on the stool of accouchement, surrounded by midwives and genii. The latter present him the emblem of life. A little farther on, the infant is presented to and caressed by Amunre; and Thoth, the god of letters, is choosing for him his prenomen, "Sun, Lord of Justice and of Truth."

To see the interesting sculptures on the great propylon, it is necessary to visit the palace at an early hour. They relate to the conquests of Rameses II., but much attention is required to make out their details. In the midst of the fortified camp is a lion, the companion of Sesostris in war.

_Lybian Suburb._--To see the tomb of the kings, one night should be passed in the valley of Biban el Melook; but the entrance of one of the excavations affords sufficient accommodation. That of Belzoni is usually preferred.

Belzoni's tomb (that of Osirien, whose conquests are depicted on the north side of the great temple of Karnak) is the most magnificent; next to that, the tomb of Rameses III. is the most interesting. It is near an angle of the rock, and will be readily distinguished by the recesses on either side of the principal shaft. These little cabinets contain some exceedingly curious sculptures or paintings, and it is from one of them that Bruce drew his harp scene.

The tombs of the queens are in a separate valley, to the west _of Mehdenet Habor_.

At Goorneh (old Goorneh) is the palace of Osirien. In the Aposiet are some remains of a very ancient temple, of which a portion is cut in the rock,--an arch (not masonic) very similar to those of Abydus. Between the Aposiet and the Memnonium are many tombs deserving attention.

The Memnonium (now perhaps more properly called the Rameseion, _i.e._, "Rameseseion," the "house of Rameses") is the most uniform and elegant of Egyptian structures. Pay particular attention to all the battle scenes, to the immense statue of Rameses II., supposed to have weighed nearly a thousand tons, to the circumstance of the bases of the columns of the hepastyle being made seats--to a very remarkable sculpture at the western extremity of the hall--to the private apartments which follow--the Pharaoh seated in the sacred Persia--the next apartment, supposed to be the library--traces of gilding on the doorways, &c.

_The Colossi in the Plain._--Of these the northern one is the vocal statue of the ancients. It is of Amunoph III., the founder of Luxor, who reigned in the 15th century, B.C. Wilkinson discovered the means of deception; a stone, which, when struck, produces a sound similar to that described by Strabo or Pausanias, is still to be found in the lap. The other statue bears the same cartouches, and both are supposed by Wilkinson to have stood at the commencement of a dromio or avenue of the sphinxes running nearly twelve hundred feet towards an indistinct mass of buildings now called Kom el Hattan. Champollion and some architects suppose that they stood before a propylon.

_Mehdenet Habor._--A temple-palace, a private palace or harem, and a temple. The harem is very interesting, but partly destroyed. It consists principally of a pavilion in advance of the palace, and in it are some curious sculptures, among which the king is represented playing chess with his ladies. A ladder is necessary.

The great temple-palace is remarkable not only for its architecture, but for the sculptures representing the conquests of Rameses III. (about the 13th century, B.C.) These are particularly remarkable in the hypoetheral court, where there is exhibited, in the northern side, a magnificent pageant, the coronation of the Pharaoh. The whole exterior of the northern side of the building is covered with battle scenes. Among the heaps of hands poured out before the conqueror are _lions' paws_. There are also heaps of phalia.

The great lake, for the ceremonies of the dead (the hippodrome of the French _savans_), will be best distinguished from the top of the pavilion. There are several other remains, and tombs without number.

There is no trace, whatever, of a wall of circumvallation, though the crude brick enclosures of the temples still remain.

We add to the foregoing, the observations of other writers upon the subject of some of the most interesting of these wondrous antiquities.

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