Part 1

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THE OLIVIA LETTERS

THE OLIVIA LETTERS

Being Some History of Washington City for Forty Years as Told by the Letters of a Newspaper Correspondent

By EMILY EDSON BRIGGS

New York and Washington THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY 1906

Copyright, 1906, by EMILY EDSON BRIGGS

CONTENTS.

A TRIBUTE TO ARCHITECTURE, 7

A SOLDIER’S BURIAL, 10

LINCOLN’S BIRTHDAY, 14

ADVICE POLITICAL, 18

A PLEA FOR THE NEGRO, 22

AT DRY TORTUGAS, 26

STATE ASSOCIATIONS, 30

BINGHAM AND BUTLER, 34

A WEST END RECEPTION, 37

IN THE ARENA OF THE SENATE, 42

SPEAKER COLFAX, 45

THE HIGH COURT OF IMPEACHMENT, 48

MRS. SENATOR WADE, 52

AT THE PRESIDENT’S LEVEE, 55

MARY CLEMMER AMES, 59

AT THE IMPEACHMENT TRIAL, 62

HON. BENJAMIN F. WADE, 66

TWO NOTABLE WOMEN, 69

JUDGE NELSON, 72

A FAITHFUL SERVANT, 75

JOHN A. BINGHAM, 79

ANSON BURLINGAME, 82

A TALENTED QUARTETTE, 85

THE DRAGONS OF THE LOBBY, 91

PRESIDENT GRANT’S INAUGURAL, 95

PRESIDENT JOHNSON’S FAMILY, 100

SENATORIAL PEN PICTURES, 105

SENATOR SPRAGUE, 112

SEALED SISTERS OF MORMONISM, 117

AWAITING AUDIENCE AT THE WHITE HOUSE, 121

JOHN M. BARCLAY, 126

WOMAN SUFFRAGE, 130

ELIZABETH CADY STANTON, 136

ISABELLA BEECHER HOOKER, 143

GATHERING OF THE STRONG-MINDED, 148

AT A COMMITTEE HEARING, 157

HONORING THE PRINCE, 164

LEVEE AT THE EXECUTIVE MANSION, 168

OFFICIAL ETIQUETTE, 173

GENERAL PHIL SHERIDAN, 181

MIDWINTER SOCIETY, 188

PROFESSOR MELAH, 199

SOME SENATORIAL SCENES, 208

THE ROBESON TEA PARTY, 214

DELEGATES FROM THE SOUTHLAND, 218

THE TREASURY TRIO, 223

VICTORIA C. WOODHULL, 229

SPREADING THE LIGHT, 236

AN OPPOSING PETITION, 242

UPHOLDING THE BANNER, 247

CHAMPIONS OF THE SUFFRAGE CAUSE, 252

MRS. GRANT’S TUESDAY AFTERNOONS, 256

DYING SCENES OF THE FORTY-FIRST CONGRESS, 262

PRAISE FOR DEPARTING LEGISLATORS, 267

THE BLACK MAN IN CONGRESS, 274

BY THE GRACE OF THE QUEEN, 280

A DISSERTATION ON DRESS, 288

MEETING OF OCCIDENT AND ORIENT, 294

THE PUBLIC GREET THE JAPANESE, 298

SAMUEL F. B. MORSE, 302

ON THE PROMENADE, 305

CHARLES SUMNER, 309

WOMAN’S INFLUENCE FOR GOOD, 315

THE KING REUNIONS, 320

CARL SCHURZ, 325

ON CAPITOL HILL, 330

GEORGETOWN ARISTOCRACY, 336

SENATORS EDMUNDS AND CARPENTER, 343

HOME LIFE OF MRS. GRANT, 349

THE GREAT REAPER, 357

CLOSING SCENES IN THE HOUSE, 364

A MATRIMONIAL REGISTER, 369

BACHELORS AND WIDOWERS, 376

THE BOTANIC GARDEN, 382

WHITE HOUSE RECEPTIONS COMPARED, 388

VICE-PRESIDENT ARTHUR, 396

KATE CHASE SPRAGUE, 403

LACK OF A LEADER, 412

BEN HILL AND ROSCOE CONKLING, 419

PRESIDENT GARFIELD’S CABINET DAY, 424

A NEW YEAR RECEPTION, 430

AT THE TRIAL OF GUITEAU, 435

ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS, 441

A TRIBUTE TO ARCHITECTURE.

HONOR PAID TO THE BUILDERS OF THE DOME OF THE NATIONAL CAPITOL.

WASHINGTON, _January, 1866_.

The time has come when our wealthy citizens need not to go abroad to see the finest specimen of architecture of the kind in the world. Visitors to the shrine of St. Paul and St. Peter return westward and award the palm of superiority to the dome of the nation’s Capitol. Towering 300 feet from the base to the summit, its superb proportions unsurpassed in the world of art, at once attract the attention of all beholders, and, as the king of the landscape, it reigns supreme. But to see it in all its regal beauty it should be aflame of a night, with its innumerable gas jets; then it becomes in every sense of the word, a “mountain of light,” and shares the honors of the evening with the “Pleiades,” “Orion,” and the “Milky Way.”

The Pharaoh who built the mighty pyramid of Egypt simply constructed his own monument, and in the same way the architect of the dome, a citizen of good old Philadelphia, has woven his name into a fragment of the web of Time. Thomas U. Walter--do you know him?--the man who held this mighty tower in his brain, in all its perfection, long, long before it ever saw the light of day. When you and I, dear reader, are not so much as a pinch of dust--when the names of Washington and Lincoln are as remote as the sages who lived before Christ--the great architects of the world will live, whether they sprung from the tawny mud of the Nile, the soil of classic Greece, or the rich vegetable mould of the western hemisphere.

Previous to 1856 a dome had been constructed of brick, stone, and wood, sheathed in copper. Its height was 145 feet from the ground. This was torn away to give place to the present structure, which is composed entirely of iron and glass.

At the commencement of the rebellion the labor of completing the dome was progressing rapidly. Strangers visiting Washington will remember what seemed to look like acres of ground strewn with immense piles of iron. Facing the east and west fronts of the Capitol, immense timbers were raised to fearful heights, to which pulleys and ropes were attached that looked strong enough to lift the world. Weather permitting--for workmen had to lie by for either wind or rain--little black objects might be seen crawling in and out, building up a nest after the most approved waspish fashion. A closer inspection showed these to be workmen. Now let Charles Fowler, esq., one of the firm of New York builders, tell his story:

“I never had a comfortable night’s sleep during all the time the work was going on. I lived in perpetual fear of some horrible accident. We could not keep people out of the rotunda. Suppose there had been a weak place in one of the timbers, a flaw in an iron pin, a rotten strand in one of the ropes--and against neither of these things could we entirely guard--there is no knowing how many lives might have been lost.” “What precautions did you take?” “We made everything four times as strong as it was necessary to lift two tons of iron to a given height.” “Were any lives lost?” “I only had three men killed in all the time. We had stopped work for dinner one day, and when the workmen returned they found one of their number dead on the ground. No one saw him fall, but it was plain he had missed his foothold on the scaffold and been precipitated to the ground. His head had come in contact with some projecting beam. That was the end of him. Another lost his life in the same way; but the third, poor fellow! it makes my hair stand on end to think of it--a rope gave way and caught him.” “The lightning hug of an anaconda?” “Yes, yes; that is it. Poor Charlie! he never knew what hurt him. It chopped him up in an instant. You don’t know how quick a big rope can do that thing.”

The dome might have been completed in five years, but the Secretary of the Interior during the dark days of the rebellion stopped the work, at a great pecuniary loss to the contractors. On the average 200 men were employed in building the dome, including those who were working on the castings in the foundry. The largest pieces of iron weighed two tons each.

The chief engineers employed were Gen. M. C. Meigs and Gen. Wm. B. Franklin. These engineers were detailed from the War Department because the building was Government property. Everything pertaining to this work is under the care of the engineer, and for its faithful execution he is responsible. It is the engineer who accepts the plan of the architect and judges of strength and merit. It is the engineer who makes the contracts and disburses the money. The word of the engineer is law. He is the autocrat in his own dominion, from whose fiat there is no appeal.

As we have already said, the dome is composed wholly of iron and glass, whilst the image which crowns it is made of bronze, designed by Crawford, and executed by Clark Mills. The weight of this goddess is about 1,700 pounds. Everything included, the dome weighs 10,000,000 pounds, which if turned into gold by the enchanter’s wand would about pay the national debt.

This brief and imperfect sketch is gathered from glances from the outside. The interior of the dome from the floor to the rotunda requires the pen of a genius to do justice to the so-called works of art found scattered in all directions. It is a long mathematical calculation to find out how many square inches of canvas have been ruined. A plaster caricature of our beloved Lincoln occupies the center of the floor, made by the tender hands of a youth of 17 summers. The fruit of genius, in all stages of the ripening process, its maturity forever arrested, lies gently decaying. It is enough to make the cheek of an American blush, if the spectacle were not so pitiful. A few gems gleam out of the rubbish. Exclusive of art, the dome of the Capitol cost the nation $1,000,000.

OLIVIA.

A SOLDIER’S BURIAL.

LAST SCENE OF ALL PATHETICALLY DEPICTED.

WASHINGTON, _January 31, 1866_.

A close observer in Washington is greatly surprised at the easy transition from a state of war to that of peace. An intelligent person might say there is no true peace. We will leave this discussion to the politicians, and say we are no longer awakened in the small hours of the night by the rumbling of the Government ambulances bringing the wounded and dying from the battlefields to the hospitals. We never shall forget that peculiar sound, unlike that produced by any other vehicle. Perhaps it was the zigzag course the driver often took to avoid any little obstruction in the street, which might jar and aggravate the wounded occupant, that made it seem so long in coming. But the movements were always slower than a funeral march.

But sad as this procession seemed, painful almost beyond expression, there was still a sadder sight. It was the same fashioned ambulance, with “U. S. Hearse” marked in large letters on the side of it. Our ears could never distinguish the movements of this from any grocer’s wagon. Sometimes we have been crossing a street, this solitary equipage would dash past, and if we were quick enough to catch a glance at the open end of it, we might see a stained coffin, perhaps two of them, with nothing to distinguish them but their manly proportions. No carriages, no mourners, no comrades, even, with reversed arms, all alone, save detailed soldiers enough to perform the act of burial; even the “chaplain” often absent.

Happening to meet an old soldier whom we knew just as the Government hearse was passing, said he, “I hope you don’t mind that; you see that is only a part of the play. It don’t make much difference how you drop the seed; the Lord will take care of the harvest.” In an instant religion stood stripped of its vaulted roof and broad aisles--_Te Deums_, new bonnets, gewgaws and pew rent. Anxious for his salvation, we inquired, “Do you ever go to church?” and thus this bronzed soldier answered, “Got too much faith to go very often. They don’t ask a fellow to sit down. Got to stow away somewhere in the back gallery, or near the door, out of everybody’s way. And besides that, I don’t want to go to their heaven. I ain’t got on the right kind of uniform to serve under their General. But hang it, Heaven is big enough for us all--horses and dead rebs into the bargain.”

Only yesterday, as it were, the cloud, the vapor, the storm of war, the wrath of the conflict, bleeding wounds, breaking hearts. To-day the sun shines upon free, proud America, the most powerful nation on the face of the earth--a nation that stands forth pure and undefiled, her late difficulties overcome, or will be just as soon as old Thad Stevens reports the surgical operation a success. Fifteen able doctors are at work, and have been ever since Congress has been in session, and the country can rest assured that everything is going on as well as can be expected.

It is a pleasant place to visit, this Capitol of ours, on a sunshiny afternoon. ’Tis true that when once seated in the House of Representatives there is that feeling which one might be supposed to have if hermetically sealed up in a huge can; but one is disabused of this feeling as soon as the greatness of the surroundings is comprehended. There is no mistaking the Republican side of the House; there is such a placid, self-satisfied look upon the faces of the members, as much as to say, “We have got it all in our own hands.” The Democratic side is greatly in the minority, so far as numbers are concerned; but they are a plucky set of men, mostly with thin lips, which they are in the habit of bringing tight together, reminding one of a certain little instrument made for torture; and woe to the House when an unfortunate Republican falls into the trap, for then follow long, windy discussions of no mortal use to the country and amounting to only so much waste of time and money.

The gallery known as the “Gentlemen’s” is generally filled with masculines who have little or nothing to do; but as they do not impede the wheels of legislation, and are kept out of the way of mischief in the meantime, the country is obliged for their attendance. And now I come to the ladies who grace and honor with their presence the national Capitol. How shall I describe these beautiful human butterflies in glaring hoops and gig-top bonnets, curls and perfumery? If the eyes of the traveler ache to behold in a solid mass the different strata of American society, let him visit the national Capitol when Ben Wade is going to make a speech. Nobody from the White House! These ladies have a good old-fashioned way of staying at home. (Wonder if they dry their clothes in the East Room as good queen Abigail used to do?) Carriages arrive at the east front of the Capitol--solemn carriages; heavy bays--made more for strength than beauty; driver with a narrow band around his hat, a little badge--just enough to show that he does not belong to “them independent Jehus that lurk around Willard’s and the National.” Driver and footman blended in one piece of ebony; driver descends, opens the carriage door, and madame, the proud wife of a Senator, descends, not with agility, for senatorial dignity brings years, rich, ripe, golden maturity, perfection of dress and manners, dark, rich silk, velvet mantle--none of your plebeian coats! The portals of the great Capitol open and Madame le Senator disappears.

Now come the wives of the wealthy members; not the leading ones, for great men seldom take time to get rich. Showy carriage, driver and footman in gloves, an elegant carriage costume, an occasional flash of early autumnal beauty, oftener positively commonplace. And now comes Jehu, who has left his “stand” before Willard’s or the National just long enough to turn an honest penny. Perhaps he is bringing a member’s wife whose carriage costume outshines her neighbor, the owner of the footman in gloves. She wishes it understood that she is not a resident of Washington; here temporarily, just long enough to keep her husband from butting his brains out against reconstruction.

She disappears, and still the carriages are arriving and we see many heads of bureaus, the Army and the Navy represented, and a sprinkling of upper clerk’s wives. More carriages, and the demi-mondes flutter out, faultless in costume, fair as ruby wine, and much more dangerous. The carriages bring the cream, and the street cars the skim milk. But there is another way of going to the Capitol, which is quite as exclusive as in carriage, and does away with that clumsy vehicle. I am speaking of those who detest the street cars, and yet remember that carriages more properly belong to gouty uncles and invalid aunts. It is to pick one’s way daintily over the pavement. Sniffing the pure air and the fragrance of the dead leaves in the Capitol grounds--good anti-dyspeptic tonic. Try it and speak from experience as we do. The allotted pages filled, au revoir.

OLIVIA.

LINCOLN’S BIRTHDAY.

MEMORIAL ADDRESS OF HONORABLE GEORGE BANCROFT.

WASHINGTON, _February 19, 1866_.

The 12th day of February has passed into history, wisely chronicled by one of the first historians of the age, and ere this the oration of the Honorable George Bancroft has been discussed in almost every hamlet in the land. It was an able effort, but nevertheless, one longed for a little less history and a little more Lincoln.

All the great and wise men of the nation were gathered together, and there was a man in the gallery busily employed in taking photographs. Hereafter the wise men of the country will bear witness that the Honorable George Bancroft is a better writer than speaker. And here let me record an historical fact. It is the memory of a delicious little nap indulged in by one of the Supreme Court Judges. Whether it was the peculiar tones of the orator, like a dull minister’s voice of a Sunday afternoon, or the sound of the rain pattering on the roof, or the shadows of so many great men falling aslant the judge’s mental horizon which caused this somnolence I am unable to say; but he did sleep for a brief time, bringing great joy to many hearts, for it proved that those awful judges in black gowns are mortal like the rest of us and that dignity is something that can be laid aside like any other covering.

But I proceeded to the foreign ministers, who nobly came forward, like martyrs, to mingle their sympathy with ours. And it was the heroic part of the ceremonies to see how manfully these aristocrats endured the castigation. What business had lords to accept cards of invitation unless they were willing to be told some unpleasant truths? Did they suppose the great historian would dwell on the life and virtues of Abraham Lincoln and leave out the history of this mighty republic? The Marquis De Montholon, the representative of His Majesty Napoleon III, drew his expressive brow into a frown terrific in the extreme, and pulled his kid gloves in a manner which denoted great nervousness. But this may be owing entirely to the mercurial character of the French nation.

Another foreign minister drew the cape of his overcoat up over his head during certain portions of the oration. But it was not owing to any wish of stopping his ears--merely a preventive to cold-catching, as the doors were open and certain draft of air perambulated the hall, taking liberties with these great men just as if they had been nobodies. Her Majesty the Queen of England’s servant, Sir Frederick Bruce, is one of the handsomest men of the age. I never look at such a man without feeling that nature’s laws have been followed and perfected in such veritable lords of creation. Compare a lion to its mate, the songster of the forest with plain birds who prefer domestic duties to gadding about the woods, whistling all sorts of love-sick tunes, and who disputes where the palm of beauty is found? The most exquisite woman that was ever made is no more to be compared to the handsomest man than the humble pea-fowl to his majesty the peacock. Yet the peacock thinks his mate the most exquisite of all created things, and what woman would be so unwise as to upset his opinions? I return to Sir Frederick Bruce, but would as soon attempt to paint the moonbeams as to describe his personal appearance. He is a thoroughbred, just like Bonner’s “Silver Heels” and “Fearless;” skin as translucent as wine; hands and feet as small as a woman’s. Men are like grapes, they need a little frost to sweeten and perfect them; and a man is never handsome until he has been rounded and polished by the hand of Time. And this is confirmed by the additional instances of Chief Justice Chase and Honorable James Watson Webb, both of them on the threshold of the winter of life, yet never before so perfect in manly beauty.

The two men who occupied the most prominent positions before the oratory were His Excellency the President, and the Chief Justice of the United States. I am not going to record their lives; the pen of the historian will do that. I desire merely to say that they were representative Americans, who rose from the humblest position to the topmost round of the ladder of fame. And may it prove a solemn warning to those mothers who are accustomed to apply the slipper to unruly urchins. I beg them to desist, lest they may be breaking the spirit or souring the disposition of some future President or Chief Justice of the United States.

Among the celebrities in the gallery I noticed the widow of Daniel Webster. But as I have given my opinion about the beauty of women, I shall make no departure from it, unless the ends shall justify the means. The wife of the Lieutenant General, Julia Dent Grant, occupied a front seat in the gallery, just as she had a right to do. She wore a pink hat, a red plaided scarf, and black gloves, and a little upstart woman who sat near me had the impudence to say the general’s lady “looked horrid.” She no doubt would have been put out for the above expression but the gallery was so crowded that no officer could be found at the proper time to discharge his duty.