Part 13
In the inn, in the main room of it, I found my companions. A gramophone fitted with a monstrous trumpet roared out American songs, and to this sound the servants of the inn were holding a ball. Chief among them a woman of a dark and vigorous kind danced with an amazing vivacity, to the applause of her peers. With all this happiness we mingled.
FOOTNOTES:
[38] The lane is continuous after Boxley, though not everywhere equally important. North of Hollingbourne it is but a path. It soon becomes a lane again, is enclosed in the private grounds of Stede Hill (Kent, 1/2500 Ordnance map, XLIII. 12), and is but a track for three-quarters of a mile from Lenham quarries. It is lost after Cobham Farm, and reappears as a long hedge and division between fields, and after the pits at Hart Hill becomes a lane again.
[39] It has enemies, like all good things. Its neighbours to the south have sung for centuries:--
'Dirty Charing lies in a hole, Has but one bell, and that she stole.'
[40] The 1/2500 Ordnance map of Kent (LV. 10) seems to me to commit a slight error at this point. There is no need to take the Old Road through the gas works. It obviously goes south of the lodge, curls northwards on leaving the park, and is lost in the buildings near the smithy. After this it forms the lane which bounds to the north the fields marked 111 and 119.
[41] Here again the 25-inch Ordnance for Kent (LV. 10) draws a conventional straight line which seemed to us erroneous. We took it to go from near Brewhouse Farm along the raised footpath to Whitehill, and then (LV. 6) under the pit, across fields 13 and 67 (not down by Soakham Farm as the map gives it), and so on to the turf where is a raised embankment and a characteristic line of yews.
[42] Professor Boyd-Dawkins in connection with his examination of the iron implements found in Bigberry Camp has traced the Old Road for a mile or two westward. The map may be seen in Owens College at Manchester.
[43] I would trace it more or less as follows on the 25-inch Ordnance map for Kent (XLIV. 16):--Through the orchards marked 378, 379a there just south of Bowerland, down the valley beyond, and up to Knockholt. But it is all cultivated land, and except for a footpath at the end there is no trace left.
INDEX
=À Becket, St. Thomas=. See '=St. Thomas=.'
=Addington=, megalithic remains at, 253 (note 2).
=Adie, Mrs.=, her valuable book, The Pilgrim's Way, referred to, 136, 214.
=Albury=, 'Weston Street' old name of, 136 (note 2).
=---- Church=, old (SS. Peter and Paul), passed, according to Ordnance map, to south by Old Road, 110 (note).
=---- Park=, preservation of Old Road in, 82; discussion of Old Road in, 174, 175.
=---- Wood.= See '=Weston=.'
=Alfred=, desecration of grave of, 125.
=Alresfords=, the, not on the Old Road, 127; medieval road to, from Alton, 129, 130 (note 1).
=Alton=, battle of, mentioned, 126; approach to medieval road to Alresford from, 129, 130 (note 1); approach to, described, 144-146.
=Anchor=, Inn at Ropley, 137, 138 (map).
=Anglo-Saxon Period=, character of, 83-85. See also =Dark Ages=.
=Antiquity=, fascination of, 10.
=Arthur's Seat= (near Redhill), exceptional passage of Old Road to north of crest at, 106 (note); described on journey, 209.
=Avebury=, and Stonehenge, mark convergence of prehistoric roads, 16.
=Aylesford=, a crossing of the Medway, its claims discussed, 245-248; and map, 236; 253 (note 2).
=Barfleur=, last southern port of 'Second Crossing,' 49, 50.
=Barrow=, near Chilham, 269.
=Bentley=, passage of Old Road by, 149.
=Betchworth Lime Pits=, passed on journey and described, 188-193.
=Bigberry Camp=, fort of Canterbury, stormed by Caesar, 43; compared with St. Catherine's Hill at Winchester, 70; Professor Boyd-Dawkins's examination of, 271 (note), visited on journey and described, 273-275.
=Bishopstoke=, church of, on site of Druidical stone circle, 109.
=Bishop Sutton=, church of, passage of Old Road as near as possible to south of, 110; mentioned in Domesday, 130; passed on our journey, 134.
=Bittern= (=Clausentum=), example of Roman use of Second Crossing, 55.
=Bletchingly=, example of Old Road on crest of hill, 107.
=Boughton Aluph=, hills beyond, example of Old Road on crest of hill, 107.
=---- ---- Church=, example of church passed to south, 110; passed on journey, 265; discussion of road to eastward of, 265, 266.
=Boulogne=, principal historic, but probably not earliest, southern port of Straits of Dover, 35.
=Box Hill=, its appearance from Denbies at evening described, 178; track of Road recovered on, 181.
=Boxley=, Roman and British coins found at, 253 (note 2).
=---- Abbey=, site of referred to, 240; Roman and British coins found at, 253.
=Boyd-Dawkins=, Professor, his examination of Bigberry Camp, 271 (and note).
=Brackham Warren=, passage of Old Road by, 186.
=Brading=, example of Roman use of Second Crossing, 55.
=Brisland Lane=, coincident with Old Road, 140.
=Britain, Roman.= See '=Roman Britain=.' (Conservation of antiquities in, 81-82.)
=British Coins=, discovered at Gatton, 203; at Aylesford, 245; at Boxley, 253 (note 2).
=Brixbury Wood=, passage of Old Road along, 162.
=Broad Street=, near Lenham, place-name significant of passage of Old Road, 136 (note 2).
=Bull Inn=, near Bentley, approach of Old Road to River Wey at, 152.
=Burford Bridge=, error caused by passage of Pilgrimage at, 95 (note); not crossed by Old Road, 182-184.
=Burham=, church of, passage of Old Road to south of, 110; passed on journey, 253.
=Bury Hill Camp=, on original track of Old Road, 27.
=Butts=, the, at Alton, entry both of medieval and prehistoric roads, 145.
=Caesar=, first eye-witness of conditions of southern Britain, 24; fort at Canterbury stormed by him, 43, 275.
=Calais=, probably first southern port of the Straits of Dover, 34-35.
=Calvados=, reef of, 50.
=Camp=, of Canterbury (Bigberry Wood), stormed by Caesar, 43; of Winchester (St. Catherine's hill), 70; of Holmbury, Farley Heath, and Anstie Bury, alluded to, 170-171; of Oldbury, of Fosbery, 253 (note 2); Bigberry described, 273-275.
=Camps=, of Winchester and Canterbury compared, 70.
=Canterbury=, why the goal of Old Road in its final form, causes of development of, 31-42; created by necessity of central depôt for Kentish ports, 41; importance of its position on the Stour, 42; resistance to Caesar, 43; origin of its religious character, 44; compared with Winchester, 66-71; entered by Westgate, 277.
=---- Cathedral=, visited, 278-280.
=Cassiterides=, their identification with Scilly Isles doubtful, 20.
=Chalk=, has preserved Old Road, 75-76; third cause of preservation of Old Road fully discussed, 97, 98; excursion upon, 189-192.
=Chantries Wood=, 163.
=Charing=, block of St. John at, 94; example of church passed to north, 111, 257; described, 260, 261; rhyme on, 261 (note).
=Chawton Wood=, medieval road from Alton to Alresford passed through, 136 (note 1).
=---- Village=, passed, 146.
=Chevening Park=, passage of Old Road across, 217.
=---- church=, example of Old Road passing to north, 111.
=Chequers Inn=, Ropley, passage of Old Road through garden of, 138.
=Chilham=, church, mentioned, 94; probable diversion of Old Road at, by Pilgrimage, 95 (note); probability of Old Road passing south of hill at, 106 (note); church probably passed from south, 110; Park crossed, 269; discussion as to track of Road east of, 267-273 (and map).
=Chilterns=, the, their position in scheme of prehistoric roads, 16; connection with Icknield Way, 23.
=Christianity=, effect of a main road on its development, 7.
=Churches, Wells in.= See '=Wells=.' Often built on pre-Christian sites, 109; passed to south by Old Road, list of, 108-110; of King's Worthy, Itchen Stoke, Bishop Sutton, Seale, Puttenham, St. Catherine's, St. Martha's, Albury, Shere, Merstham, Titsey, Chevening, Bishopstoke, Snodland, Burham, Lenham, Charing, Eastwell, Chilham, etc. See under name of place.
=Clausentum.= See =Bittern=.
=Clay=, Old Road often lost on, 75; how avoided by Old Road in Upper Valley of Wey, 152 (and note); above Quarry Hangers, argument against identity of Pilgrim's Road with Prehistoric, 205.
=Cobham Farm=, Old Road lost at, 258.
=Coldrum= (or =Trottescliffe=), megalithic monument, 252-253 (and note), and 236 (map).
=Colekitchen Combe=, passage of Old Road across, 177.
=Colley Farm=, Roman remains at, 197.
=---- Hill=, example of Old Road on crest of hill, 107; described with map, 196.
=Compton=, probable diversion of Old Road through, by Pilgrimage, 95 (note); also 159, 160.
=Cotentin=, promontory of the, its value as a breakwater to the 'Second Crossing,' 46, 50; height of shore hills upon, 48.
=Cotswolds=, the, their position in scheme of prehistoric road, 16, 23.
=Cowes=, as a harbour of Second Crossing, 55.
'=Crossing, Second=.' See '=Second Crossing=.'
=Cultivation= avoided by Old Road, exceptions to this, 148-149.
=Cuxton=, a possible crossing of the Medway, map, 236; its claims discussed, 244.
=Darent=, river crossing, of, 219-225.
=Dark Ages=, reproduce barbaric conditions previous to Roman Conquest, 65.
=Denbies Park=, clear trace of Old Road along edge of, 178.
=Detling=, 257.
=Domesday=, Worthies mentioned in, 121 (note); three churches at Alresford mentioned in, 129; Bishop Sutton mentioned in, 130; Wrotham, Oxford, Charing mentioned in, 221.
=Dorking Lime Pits=, track lost after, 178.
=Dorsetshire Downs=, their position in scheme of prehistoric roads, 16, 23.
=Dover=, Straits of, harbour of, originally an inlet, modern artificial character of, 36. See =Straits=.
=Downs=. See =North=, =South=, =Dorsetshire=.
=Drovers=, preserve old tracks by avoiding turnpike roads, 95; their road to London after Shere confused with Old Road, 176.
=Dun Street=, near Eastwell Park, place-name significant of passage of Old Road, 136 (note 2); passed on journey, 262.
=Duthie=, his record of medieval road from Alresford to Alton, 136 (note 1).
=Eastwell Park=, preservation of Old Road, 82; passage through on journey, 263.
=Ermine Street=, alluded to, 19; less affected than Icknield Way by revolution of the twelfth century, 87.
=Farnham=, marks ends of North Down Ridge, 26; on original track of Old Road, 27; strategical and political importance of, 153-154.
=Farnham Lane=, marks end of disused western portion of Old Road, 27.
=Flanking Roads=, 107.
=Folkestone=, one of modern harbours on northern shore of the Straits, its artificial character, 36.
=Ford=, of Itchen at Itchen Stoke, discussed, 130-133 (and map); of Wey at Shalford, position of, 166-167 (and map); of Mole, discussed, 181-183; of Medway, or crossing, fully discussed, 236-253.
=Fords=, Old Road chooses those approached by a spur on either side, 111.
=Fordwych=, original limit of tide on Stour, 43.
=Fosse Way=, alluded to, 19; begins to disappear with advent of Middle Ages, 87.
=Froyle=, passage of Old Road by, 152.
=Gatton=, exceptional passage of Old Road to north of crest at, 106 (note); speculation on history of, 201; track of Old Road through, and passage to north of crest described, 199 (note), 202-203.
=Geological conditions= of exit from Winchester, 122; of upper Wey valley, 152 (and note); of Quarry Hangers, 205; of crossing of Medway in general, 244-251; of Snodland in particular, 250-251.
=Gilbert Street=, place-name suggesting passage of Old Road, 137.
=Glastonbury=, example of original importance of West Country, 22.
=Gloucester=, medieval tax on iron at, 20.
=Godmersham=, exceptional passage of Old Road to north of crest at, 106 (note); track of Road at, 267-269 (and map).
=Goodnestone=, village of, geographical centre of Kentish ports, why unsuitable as a political centre, 42.
=Goodwin Sands=, probably prehistoric, 39.
=Greystone Lime Pits=, Merstham, recovery of Old Road at, 206.
'=Grey Wethers=,' name of platform beyond Medway opposite Wrotham, 233.
=Grésivaudan=, example of advantage of Partial Isolation, 30.
=Gris Nez=, look-out towards English shore, 32; forbids harbours near it, but provides shelter to eastward coast, 34.
=Gomshall=, doubt as to passage of Old Road at, 176.
'=Habits=,' of the Old Road, list of, 104-113.
=Hamble, River=, as a harbour of the 'Second Crossing,' 54.
=Harbours=, multiplicity of, in Straits of Dover, produced by complexity of tides, 31, 32, 35; list of original and modern, on northern shore of the Straits, 35; of Southampton Water, Solent, and Spithead, excellence of, 55; list of, on Solent and Southampton Water, 55.
=Harrietsham=, 257.
=Hart Hill=, Old Road recovered at, 258.
=Hastings=, mirage at, alluded to, 34.
=Haverfield=, his map giving Roman road from north gate of Winchester, 124 (note).
=Headbourne Worthy=, arguments for and against its standing on Old Road, 120-125; mentioned in Domesday, 121.
=High Cross=, compared to Gatton, 201.
=Hills=, ranges of, correspond with prehistoric roads, 15-16 (with map); crest of, usually avoided by Old Road, 106.
=Hoborough=, Roman remains in, 253 (note 2).
=Hog's Back=, hill near Farnham, continues range of North Downs, 26; affords example of turnpike protecting Old Road, 96; excellent example of 'Flanking Road,' 107; passage of Old Road along, 156 _et seq._
=Hollingbourne=, 257.
=Horizons=, of Barfleur and St. Catherine's, 48 (map), 50.
'=Hundred Stones=,' the, megalithic monument, 254 (note 2).
=Hyde Abbey=, site and ruins of, 123-125.
=Icknield Way=, alluded to, 22; begins to disappear in Middle Ages, 87.
=Inns=, Anchor, Chequers, Jolly Farmer, Kentish Drover, etc. See under these names.
=Iron=, its early production in West England, 23; in the Sussex Weald, 24.
=Islands=, examples of advantages of Partial Isolation, 31.
=Isle of Wight=, its projection southward invites 'Second Crossing,' 46; importance of St. Catherine's Hill in, 51; harbours of, and reef off Ventnor, 55.
=Isolation=, Partial, Geographical, political advantages of, 22-31.
=Itchen Abbas=, origin of name, 126; Roman villa discovered near, 126 (note); passed on our journey, 125.
=Itchen=, river, continuation of Southampton Water, 56; compared to Stour, 68, 69; made navigable by Lucy, 130; view of, from Alresford Hill, 133-134; crossing of, at Itchen Stoke, 130-133 (and map).
=---- Valley of=, forms Winchester to Farnham Road, 60.
=Itchen Stoke=, old church of, passage of Old Road to south of, 110; site and date of destruction of, 126.
=---- Ford at=, Old Road passes Itchen by, 128-133 (and map); passed on our journey, 132.
=Jews= occupied principal street of Winchester, 118; their wealth in early Middle Ages, 118 (note).
=Jolly Farmer=, Inn at Puttenham, 160.
=Kemsing=, manor of, 226; on map, 227.
=Kent=, shape of, forces Old Road westward, 18; causes complexity of tides in Straits of Dover, 31-32.
=Kentish Drover=, the, 253 (note 1).
=King's Worthy=, church of, passage of Old Road to south of, 110; mentioned in Domesday, 121 (note); its situation on Old Road discussed, 120-125; passed on our journey, 125.
=Kit's Coty House=, referred to, 248 (note 1); visited, 253, 254.
=Knockholt Farm=, east of Chilham, Old Road recovered at, 270.
=Land-fall=, importance of, 52.
=Landlords=, their conservation of antiquities, 82.
=Lead=, mined in early times in the north, 19; in the west, 20.
=Len, River=, 259.
=Lenham=, traces of flanking road above, 107; church of, example of passage to north, 111; passed, 257.
=Lime Pits=, =Dorking=, =Betchworth=, etc., see under their separate names; a mark of Old Road, 192-193.
=London=, growth of importance of as Roman rule failed, 65; ousts Winchester, 87.
=Longnose Point=, alluded to, 38.
=Lower Halling=, a crossing of the Medway, its claims discussed, 248-249; and map, 236.
=Lucy=, Bishop of Winchester, renders Itchen navigable, 130.
=Lymington=, as a harbour of Second Crossing, 54.
=Lympne.= See =Portus Lemanis=.
=Maiden Way=, alluded to, 19.
=Marden Park=, track of Old Road round, and map, 211.
=Margery Wood=, passage of Old Road by, 198.
=Martyrs' Worthy=, passed on journey, 125.
=Medina=, river, as a harbour of the 'Second Crossing,' 54.
=Medstead=, watershed near, mentioned, 113.
=Medway, River=, crossing of, fully discussed, with map, 236-253.
=---- Valley of=, view over, from Wrotham described, 231-233.
=Megalithic Monument.= See =Kit's Coty House=, =Addington=, =Coldrum=, etc.
=Mendips=, their importance as a metallic centre, 20.
=Merstham=, probable diversion of Old Road at, by Pilgrimage, 95 (note); example of church passed to south, 110.
=---- House=, passage of Old Road through grounds of, 204.
=Metals=, mined originally in West England, 19.
=Method of Reconstruction of Old Road=, 100-104.
=Mole=, river, point of crossing discussed, 181-183; with map, 182.
=Monk's Hatch=, passage of Old Road through, 162.
=Neolithic Man=, his principal seat on green-sand south of North Downs, 23; endurance of relics of, 73.
=North Country=, not important in early times, 19.
=---- Downs=, their position in scheme of prehistoric roads, 16; the original and necessary platform of the Old Road, 24-25 (with map); view of these from Wrotham, 231; 'funnel' formed by them at passage of Medway, 237; road leaves them after Charing, 260.
=---- Street=, place-name suggesting passage of Old Road, 137.
=Old Road=, why the most important of English prehistoric roads, 17-24; its first track sketched, 25; why it ended at Canterbury, 31-42; why it began at Winchester, 44-58; short cut from Winchester to Farnham gradually superseded original western portion, 59-61 (with map); final form of, 62 (with map); causes of preservation of, 72-99; proportion of known to unknown, 100-101 (with map); characteristics or 'habits' of, 104-113. its track from north gate of Winchester to King's Worthy, 120-125; coincidence of, with modern road from King's Worthy to Itchen Stoke, 124; arguments in favour of its crossing the Itchen at Itchen Stoke, 127-132; recovering of lost portion in Ropley Valley, 132-136; corresponds to high-road after Alton, causes of this, 149-154; diversion at Puttenham, 158; crosses Wey, 163-166; passes St. Martha's, north of Weston Wood, Albury Park, 170-175; crosses Mole at Pixham Mill, 180-183; passes Betchworth Pits, 188; lost after Merstham and recovered, 204-207; discussion of track near Marden Park, 211; and across Titsey Park, 214-216; its loss after Chevening, 217; typical section of, 225-230 (with map); its crossing of Medway discussed, 236-253; clear along Downs to Charing, 256-260; crosses Eastwell Park, Boughton Aluph, Godmersham, Chilham Park, 263-269; lost for two miles east of Chilham, 270-271 (and map); passes Bigberry Camp, 273; enters Canterbury by Westgate, 277.
=Old Wives' Lees=, doubts as to passage of Old Road by, 270-271 (and map).
=Ordie=, Domesday name for 'Worthy,' 121 (note).
=Ordnance Map=, 6-inch to the mile, probably wrong in track of Roman Road from north gate of Winchester, 124 (note); error in track given from Arthur's Seat to Oxted railway cutting, 213.
=Ordnance Map=, 1/2500, references to fields at Ropley, 138 (notes 1, 2, 3), 139 (note); at Puttenham, 158 (note); Weston Wood, 174 (note); doubts as to track given by it through Albury Park, 174; recovery of Old Road after Gomshall, 177 (note); probable error east of Shere, 176; crossing of Mole, 183 (note); crest of Colley Hill, 197; error of, in regard to Gatton Park, 199 (note); Merstham to Quarry Hangers, 207 (note); east of Marden Park, 212 (note); east of Chevening, 218 (note); passage of Medway, 253 (note); error of, east and north of Eastwell Park, and east and north of Boughton Aluph church, 265-266 (notes 1 and 2).
=Otford=, passage of Old Road through, 218; battles of, 220; palace of, 220, 221.
=Oxted=, error caused by approach of pilgrimage to plain of, 95 (note).
=Oxted Railway Cutting=, track of Old Road from Marden Park to, 211-212 (and map).
=Paddlesworth=, passage of Old Road, 253 (note 1).
=Palace= of Archbishops of Canterbury at Otford, 220-223.
=Park=, =Albury=, =Monk's Hatch=, =Denbies=, =Gatton=, =Merstham=, =Titsey=, =Chevening=, =Stede Hill=, =Eastwell=, =Godmersham=, =Chilham=. See under these names.
=Pebble Combe=, passage of Old Road across, 194-196 (and map).
=Pilgrimage=, to shrine of St. Thomas at Canterbury, preserves the Old Road, 76-81; change of date of, 91; rapid development of, 91-92; ancient sites restored by, 93; but also prehistoric track sometimes confused by list of places so affected, 96 (and note); example at Ropley of its recovery of Old Road, 136 (and note); confuses record of passing of River Mole, 181; diversion caused to Road after Merstham, 205; and Old Wives' Lees, 271.
=Pilgrim's Lane=, near Merstham, 205.
=Pixham Mill=, Old Road crosses Mole at, 182 (map), and 183 (note).
=Porchester=, example of Roman use of 'Second Crossing,' 55.
=Portsmouth=, as a harbour of the 'Second Crossing,' 54.
=Portus Adurni=, possibly origin of a track to London, 200; doubts on its equivalence to Shoreham, 200.
=Portus Lemanis=, the modern Lympne, perhaps original of Old Road, 27; its connection with the earliest crossing of the Straits, 35.
=Puttenham=, apparent exception to straightness of Old Road at, mentioned, 105; example of church passed to south, 110; medieval market at, 158; diversion of Old Road at, discussed, 159-161 (and map); neolithic and bronze remains at, 161.
=Quarley Hill=, on original track of Old Road, 27.
=Quarry Hangers=, east of Red Hill, too steep to take Old Road, 205, 206; arrival at summits of, 207.
=Ramsgate=, one of modern harbours on northern shore of Straits, its artificial character, 36.
=Reconstruction of Old Road.= See '=Method=.'
=Reculvers=, one of original harbours in connection with crossing Straits of Dover, 35.
=Reef=, of Calvados, 50; off Ventnor, 55.
=Reformation=, effect of, on Old Road, 221-224.
=Reigate=, derivation of name of, and relation to Old Road, 199.