Category: Travel Writing

The New North

The Mendicants leave Chicago--The invisible parallel of 49 where the eagle perches and makes amorous eyes at the beaver--Union Jack floats on an ox-cart--A holy baggage-room--Winnipeg, the Buckle of the Wheat-Belt--The trapper and the doctor--Mrs. Humphry Ward speaks--Boy Make...

Chapters

1. Chapter 1

The Mendicants leave Chicago--The invisible parallel of 49 where the eagle perches and makes amorous eyes at the beaver--Union Jack floats on an ox-cart--A holy baggage-room--Wi...

2. Chapter 2

The 1,000-mile wheat-field--Calgary-in-the-Foothills--Edmonton, the end of steel--The Brains of a Trans-Continental--Browning on the Saskatchewan--East Londoners in tents--Our o...

3. Chapter 3

Athabasca Landing, the Gateway of the North--English gives place to Cree--Limit of the Dry Martini--Will the rabbits run?--The woman printer--Hymn-books by hand in the Cree syll...

4. Chapter 4

"Farewell, Nistow!"--The rainy deck of a "sturgeon head" under a tarpaulin--Drifting by starlight--The wild geese overhead--Forty-foot gas-spout at the Pelican--The mosquito mak...

5. Chapter 5

The _Go-Quick-Her_ takes the bit in her mouth--Mallards on the half-shell--We set the Athabascan Thames afire--Sturgeon-head breaks her back on the Big Cascade--Fort McMurray--A...

6. Chapter 6

Old Fort Chipewyan--In the footsteps of Mackenzie and Sir John Franklin--Sir John turns parson--Grey Nuns and brown babies--Where grew the prize wheat of the Philadelphia Centen...

7. Chapter 7

Farewell to the Mounted Police--Our blankets on the deck--Fern odours by untravelled ways--Typewriting and kodaking in 20 hours of daylight--Navigating Lake Athabasca by the pow...

8. Chapter 8

World's records beaten on the Athabasca--Down the Slave to Smith's Landing--Priests sink in the Rapid of the Drowned--The Mosquito Portage--Fort Smith, the new headquarters--Lad...

9. Chapter 9

"Red lemol-lade" kiddies--Tons of crystal salt--Great Slave Lake and its fertile shores--Yellow-Knife and Dog-Rib, subjects of the Seventh Edward--Hay River and its annual mail-...

10. Chapter 10

Drowning of De-deed--Fort Simpson, the old headquarters--A mouldy museum--The shrew-mice that were not preserved in rum--The farthest north library--Gold-seekers and grub-staked...

11. Chapter 11

Tenny Gouley tells us things--Mackenzie River, past and present--The fringed gentian at Fort Wrigley--The fires Mackenzie saw--The weathered knob of Bear Rock--Great Bear Lake--...

12. Chapter 12

Arctic Red River--Wilfrid Laurier, the merger--Mrs. Ila-la-Rocko, the danseuse--Marriage as the Oo-vai-oo-aks see it--Orange-blossoms at Su-pi-di-do's--Trading tryst at Barter I...

13. Chapter 13

Sir John Franklin's lobsticks at Point Separation--We reach Fort Macpherson on the Peel--Sergeant Fitzgerald, R.N.W.M.P., eulogizes the Eskimo--An Eskimo wife must make boots th...

14. Chapter 14

The Midnight Sun--Our friend the heathen--"We want to go to hell"--Catching fish by prayer--The Eskimo and the Flood--Pink tea at the Pole--Always a balance in the Eskimo Bank--...

15. Chapter 15

Jurisprudence on ice--The generous Innuit--Emmie-ray, the Delineator pattern--Weak races are pressed south--Roxi, a re-incarnation of Sir Philip Sidney--Blubbery bon vivants--Es...

16. Chapter 16

Circumpolar Bowhead makes his last stand--Whales here and elsewhere--The Yankee peddler at Canada's back-door--Thirteen and a half million in whale values--Wind-swept Herschel,...

17. Chapter 17

Lives lost for the sake of a white bead--The stars come back--The Keele party from the Dollarless Divide--"Here and there a grayling"--Across Great Slave Lake--The first white w...

18. Chapter 18

The nuptials of 'Norine--Ladies round gents and gents don't go--The fossil-gatherers--I give my name to a Cree kiddie--A solid mile of red raspberries--The typewriter an uncanny...

19. Chapter 19

Ho! for the Peace--One break in 900 miles of navigation--A grey wolf--Bear-meat and the Se-weep-i-gons--Ninety-foot spruces--Tom Kerr and his bairns--The fish-seine that never f...

20. Chapter 20

The farthest north flour-mill--The man who made Vermilion--Wheat at $1.25 a bushel--An Experimental Farm in latitude 58° 30'--An unoccupied kingdom as large as Belgium--Where th...

21. Chapter 21

22. Chapter 22

23. Chapter 23

Jim wins: Allie Brick can't run--100,000,000 acres of wheat-land--Jilly-Loo bird still lacks a rib--100 moose in one month--Peripatetic judges but no prisoners--The best-tattooe...

24. Chapter 24

A magnificent trophy Map showing the Author's Route Sir Wilfred Laurier Earl Grey, Governor-General of Canada Winnipeg, the Buckle of the Wheat Belt The Canadian Women's Press C...

25. Chapter 25

Isn't it Riley who says, "Ef you want something, an' jest dead set a-longin' fer it with both eyes wet, and tears won't bring it, why, you try sweat"? Well, we had tried sweat a...

26. Chapter 26

"To the far-flung fenceless prairie Where the quick cloud-shadows trail, To our neighbor's barn in the offing And the line of the new-cut rail; To the plough in her league-long...

27. Chapter 27

"I am the land that listens, I am the land that broods; Steeped in eternal beauty, crystalline waters and woods; I wait for the men who will win me--and I will not be won in a d...

28. Chapter 28

"Set me in the urge and tide-drift Of the streaming hosts a-wing! Breast of scarlet, throat of yellow, Raucous challenge, wooings mellow-- Every migrant is my fellow, Making nor...

29. Chapter 29

"On wan dark night on Lac St. Pierre, De win' she blow, blow, blow, An' de crew of de wood scow '_Julie Plante_' Got scar't an' run below-- For de win' she blow lak hurricane Bi...

30. Chapter 30

At seven in the morning of Sunday, June 21st, we enter Lake Athabasca, and catch our first glimpse of Fort Chipewyan. An acceptance of the invitation, "Come, shake your leg," ha...

31. Chapter 31

For fresh woods and pastures new this Friday, June 26th! Our little "bunch" breaks up. Mr. Brabant and Mrs. Harding, of the Hudson's Bay Company contingent, go on in the _Graham...

32. Chapter 32

"On we tramped exultantly, and no man was our master, And no man guessed what dreams were ours, as swinging heel and toe, We tramped the road to Anywhere, the magic road to anyw...

33. Chapter 33

"Wild for the hunter's roving, and the use Of trappers in its dark and trackless vales, Wild with the trampling of the giant moose, And the weird magic of old Indian tales."

34. Chapter 34

"Never the Spirit was born: the Spirit shall cease to be never. Never was time, it was not; end and beginning are dreams. Birthless and deathless and changeless remaineth the Sp...

35. Chapter 35

About ten o'clock on the evening of July loth, in broad daylight, we push out from Fort Simpson, with the whole population, white, red, and parti-coloured, on the banks to bid u...

36. Chapter 36

"Behold, I sing a pagan song of old, And out of my full heart, Hold forth my hands that so I would enfold The Infinite thou art. What matter all the creeds that come and go, The...

37. Chapter 37

"I have drunk the Sea's good wine, Was ever step so light as mine, Was ever heart so gay? O, thanks to thee, great Mother, thanks to thee, For this old joy renewed, For tightene...

38. Chapter 38

The Midnight Sun! The sun does not sink to the horizon, but pauses for a moment and rises again. Dawn and eventide are one. The manifestations of light ever since we left Athaba...

39. Chapter 39

Exigencies of life have caused the Mackenzie Eskimo to formulate on vital matters an unwritten law to which each gives assent. Succinctly stated, this system of Northland jurisp...

40. Chapter 40

What is a whale? Well, although the whalers dub it so, it is not a fish, but is a true mammal, the last of the mammoth creatures that trod the earth and floundered the seas of a...

41. Chapter 41

A tax on tea caused the revolt of the thirteen Colonies, a taunting load of tennis-balls lost France to the Dauphin. Eighty years ago on this Arctic edge, white beads, or the la...

42. Chapter 42

"Think o' the stories round the camp, the yarns along the track-- O' Lesser Slave an' Herschel's Isle an' Flynn at Fond du Lac; Of fur an' gun, an' ranch an' run, an' moose and...

43. Chapter 43

"What lies ahead no human mind can know, To-morrow may bring happiness or woe. We cannot carry charts, save the hope that's in our hearts As along the unknown trail we blithely...

44. Chapter 44

"Lofty I stand from each sister land, patient and cheerily wise, With the weight of a world of wonder in my quiet, passionless eyes, Dreaming of men who will bless me, of women...

45. Chapter 45

On September 15th we leave Vermilion, leave, too, on the beach the little _Mee-wah-sin,_ and in the tiny tug _Messenger_ of the H.B. Company pass on up the Peace. By night we te...

46. Chapter 46

"A haze on the far horizon, The infinite tender sky, The ripe, rich tint of the cornfields, And the wild geese sailing high,-- And all over upland and lowland The charm of the g...

47. Chapter 47

Taking passage on the steamer _Northern Light_, we leave the settlement of Lesser Slave Lake, this world-in-small, on the first day of October, and, from here to Athabasca Landi...

48. Chapter 48

Edmonton once more. Two Spanish sailors shipwrecked and navigating the Pacific on a log, search the shore for a sign. Into what land are they drifting? The one at the bow (does...