The New Hand-Book to Lowestoft and Its Environs

Part 2

Chapter 23,917 wordsPublic domain

“The dreadful storm on Wednesday the 19th instant, began about one o’clock in the morning, and continued with increasing violence till five; when the wind suddenly changed from the south-west to the north-west, and for two hours raged with a fury that was hardly ever equalled. Anchors and cables proved too feeble a security for the ships, which instantly parting from them, and running on board each other, produced a confusion, neither to be described nor conceived: not a few immediately foundered; others were dismasted, and none escaped unhurt. At daylight a scene of the most tragic distress was exhibited. Those who first beheld it assert, that no less than eighteen ships were on the sand before this place at one and the same time; and many others were seen to sink. Of those on the sand, one-half were entirely demolished, with their crews, before nine o’clock; the rest were preserved a few hours longer: but this dreadful pause served only to aggravate the destruction of the unhappy men who belonged to them, who betook themselves to the masts and rigging. These continually breaking, eight or ten were not unfrequently seen to perish at a time, without the possibility of being assisted. Fifteen only, about two in the afternoon, were taken off one of the wrecks; and about as many more were saved by taking to their boats, or getting on board other ships when they boarded each other. It is impossible to collect with certainty how many lives, or how many ships, were lost in this terrible hurricane. Twenty-five at least, perhaps thirty ships, and two hundred men, do not seem to be an exaggerated account. This, indeed, is too small a calculation, if credit is to be given to one of the seamen, who declares he saw six vessels sink not far without the Stanford, among which was a large ship bound for Lisbon, with sixty or seventy passengers on board. One or two of the ships which are lost belong to Yarmouth, and one to Plymouth; but the generality are colliers, and belong to Sunderland, Shields, and other places in the north.

“The concern this destructive scene occasioned to the spectators of it, was increased by the following circumstance. When the masts of one of the ships, on which were eight or nine men, fell, two of them were some time afterwards seen struggling among the wreck; and at length, after unremitted efforts, got upon the hull. In the afternoon, a pilot boat ventured from the shore; but it was found impracticable to administer any relief to the unfortunate sufferers, whom they were compelled to leave in their forlorn state; an approaching dark, cold, stormy night, heightened the horrors of their situation. The next day, to the astonishment of every body, one of the men was observed to be alive; and about noon the boat again attempted to save him, and approached so near as to ask the poor fellow several questions; but the hull on which he was, being surrounded with wreck, and the sea running very high, it was impossible to rescue him from the impending danger. He was at the stern of the ship: towards her head the sailors conceived it barely possible to board her with safety. This they told the unhappy man they would attempt, and bid him walk to the place; but replying that he was too weak to change his situation, they were again obliged to leave him, making signs of his inconceivable distress. The ensuing night put a period to his misfortunes and life.”

The following extracts from letters, written at the time, by the late Rev. B. Ritson, and the late G. Everett, Esq., and inserted in the public journals, have been supplied by Mr. H. B. Disney, one of the actors in the several scenes described. The letters indicate at once the humanity of the writers, the fearful character of the danger to which the unfortunate sufferers were exposed; and the heroic bravery of the hearts which faced the storms, to rescue fellow men from watery graves.

The following accounts are by the late Rev. B. Ritson, many years Curate of Lowestoft.

“On Sunday morning last (Oct. 22nd, 1820) a heavy gale of wind from SS. W. was experienced at Lowestoft, which, towards noon, had increased almost to a hurricane; the whole sea was one continued foam, and a most tremendous surf broke upon the shore. About twelve o’clock, the inhabitants of the town had the pain of witnessing the distress of a vessel, which, in attempting to gain the inner roads through the Stanford channel, struck upon a sand called the Beacon Ridge, and, in about seven minutes went to pieces, and all hands on board perished. A second vessel soon after followed, and, in making the same attempt, met with the same melancholy fate, and all the crew were lost. The loss of these two vessels, (names unknown) was so awfully sudden as to afford no time for assistance from shore.

“A third vessel, a sloop called the _Sarah_ and _Caroline_, of Woodbridge, laden with coals, struck upon a sand called the Newcombe, and remained thereon with her mast standing; but, soon filling with water, the crew, consisting of five persons, took refuge in the shrouds. Here their situation was most perilous; for as it was only half ebb tide, with the wind tremendously strong, no assistance from shore could be afforded them until the following flood, supposing the vessel should hold together so long. In the mean time, every necessary preparation was made to render assistance, as soon as such an attempt should be in any measure practicable. The Lowestoft life-boat, belonging to the “Suffolk Humane Society,” was got out and manned under the direction of Lieutenant T. S. Carter, R.N. and when launched, was towed a considerable way to the southward, to bring her on a bearing with the vessel in distress. Still, however, when the tow was let go, the boat fell to leeward of the Wreck; and it was not until the tide began to flow, that she made any way towards attaining her object. At length, after the most persevering and strenuous exertions, she succeeded in gaining the wreck, and providentially took the poor fellows from the shrouds, just as one of them was about to drop from his hold through fatigue and cold.

“In approaching the sloop, the life-boat passed, and was hailed by a brig, coal laden, which, on her return she boarded, and found in a sinking state. She proved to be the _George_, of London, John Dixon, master, with seven hands on board. These were also taken into the life-boat; and, about six o’clock in the evening, the whole twelve persons were safely landed on the beach at Lowestoft, without the smallest accident whatever, amidst the congratulatory cheers and greetings of the anxious multitude who had been witnesses of the distress. The sloop’s mast fell about an hour after the men left it, and the brig sunk soon after.

“Too much praise cannot be given to Lieut. Carter, the pilots, and men on board the lifeboat, for their cool, steady, and intrepid conduct on this very trying emergency; to whom individually the Suffolk Humane Society have returned their thanks.” {26}

“On Friday, the 13th of January, 1815, at daybreak some of the Lowestoft Boatmen being on the look out, perceived a wreck lying among the breakers on the Corton sand, otherwise called the home sand, the wreck bearing E. S. E. from the Lowestoft Upper Light-house, and distant from shore about two miles. Three of the pilot yawls were soon manned and put off, to visit the wreck to ascertain whether there were any persons on board, and if so, to render whatever necessary assistance might be in their power. Upon approaching the wreck, the people in the yawls discovered three men on it, but at the same time found, to their great mortification, that by reason of a tremendous sea upon the sand, and the high surf and broken water surrounding, and frequently breaking over the wreck, it would be impossible for any yawl to get nearer without manifest hazard of being dashed to pieces. A signal being thrown out by one of the yawls that there were persons on the wreck, the life boat was got out and manned with the utmost expedition. The alacrity with which the brave seamen {27} leaped on board the life-boat is scarcely to be described; after encountering much difficulty and danger in passing through the breakers, they came near to the vessel in sight of hundreds of spectators, who, from the heights were beholding with astonishment their admirable nautical skill and dauntless courage; at the same time trembling between hope and fear for their safety, and lifting up a silent fervent prayer for the successful termination of their perilous undertaking. Heaven in its mercy smiled propitious on their endeavours, and rewarded the exertions of these brave men with success, and they had the heartfelt joy of bringing the three shipwrecked mariners to shore without any accident. The sloop was the _Jeanie_ of Hull, laden with potatoes, and bound to London. She sailed from Hull on Thursday morning, and about twelve at night, when off Hasborough Gat, sprung a leak which gained so fast upon the crew that they were obliged to run on the sand to prevent her foundering.”

The late George Everitt, Esq. writes as follows—

“On the 26th of January, 1842, about one P.M., a vessel was observed to be in great distress, on the sand called the Inner Newcome, the wind at the time blowing a hurricane, and the sea running “mountains high.” The Lowestoft life-boat with a crew of nineteen men, commanded by Lieut. T. S. Carter, R.N., assisted by Mr. H. B. Disney, Trinity pilot, was most promptly launched, and proceeded to her relief. By the greatest exertion and skill, a communication, by means of a life line was established with the distressed men, who had fled to the rigging for safety; the sea at the time making quite over the life-boat, and filling her with water. Mr. Disney was washed overboard, but providentially did not loose his hold of the safety line, and was again drawn into the boat. Seven out of the eight men on board the wreck were hauled through the surf into the life-boat, a distance of perhaps twenty yards. At this time, the anchor of the life-boat came home, and with great difficulty and danger, the boat was sheered under the bowsprit of the wreck, when the cable was cut, and she then proceeded to the shore full of water, landing her own crew and the rescued men in safety. Lieut. Carter was carried in a very exhausted state to a house near, where the usual means having been resorted to, he was, after a few hours, so far restored as to be able to return to his residence in a chaise.

“Meantime, the Pakefield life-boat, manned by a crew endowed with the same high courage and good seamanship, which had characterized their neighbours, made further effort to save the poor fellow who was left on the wreck, and had the happiness of rescuing him from a watery grave. {29}

“Our Society, assisted by our brave seamen, has again the high satisfaction of being made the means of saving the lives of eight fellow creatures; and at a Committee meeting summoned for that purpose, on the morning of the following day, gave its “mite” of reward to the crews of the boats engaged in the perilous service, and their hearty thanks to Lieut. Carter and Mr. Disney. The Lowestoft life-boat sustained damage to a considerable amount.

“The Suffolk Humane Society (President, Sir T. S. Gooch, Bart.,) maintains and keeps in repair the two life-boats, and gives a stated sum to the crews whenever called into service, out of funds raised entirely by private subscriptions from Lowestoft and its neighbourhood, but which cannot afford adequate reward to the men for their intrepid service.”

The preceding quotations have sufficiently shewn the value of the Life-boat, and of that society by which it is maintained; no other eloquence, than that of such facts, is needed to commend the society to the kind consideration of the generous and humane.

Connected with the life-boat there are other contrivances, the object of which is, to render assistance to the shipwrecked mariner, when boats cannot approach sufficiently near: they are known as

CAPTAIN MANBY’S APPARATUS.

In a note in his 69th page, Gillingwater says: “The most probable method of rescuing seamen from those unfortunate situations, that I can think of, is that of a kite. When the storm is so abated that a boat is able to approach pretty near the wreck, let a line (which may soon after easily convey a strong rope) be carried by the kite over the vessel, and then let fall. Thus a communication may be obtained between the wreck and the boat, and by that means, the seaman may be drawn through the water from the ship to the boat.” Now, that which the kind hearted man threw out as a possibility, has been shewn to be practicable; a communication is obtained by means of this apparatus; a rope is attached to a ball which is projected from a mortar, and thrown over the vessel in distress: the apparatus is kept in the boat house, which is situated on the beach, near the lower part of the town. During the summer season, visiters are sometimes gratified by a sight of the method in which this apparatus effects its object.

We now direct attention to various improvements and benevolent devices.—The Light-houses, Harbour, etc.

THE LIGHT-HOUSES

are at once highly useful, and present striking objects of interest to the visiter.

The Upper Light-house is a neat and ornamental building, situated at the northern extremity of the High street, on a commanding eminence, and may be seen to advantage by a person entering the town from the Yarmouth side. It was erected in 1676, by the Brethren of the Trinity House, and subsequently repaired and improved in the years 1778, 1825, and 1840. It is fitted up with large plated reflectors in a lantern of plate glass.

[Picture: High Light, Lowestoft]

The Lower Light situated on the beach, towards the south of the town, consists simply of a lantern, fitted with lamps and reflectors, as in the case of the upper light, elevated on a framework of wood; it has received this structure in order that it may be easily removed: it has been found necessary sometimes to change its place, as the sands—to warn against danger from which, the light-houses have been erected—are continually shifting. Mariners steering in a line with these two lights, can safely pass between the Holme and Barnard sands, the channel between which, is not more than a quarter of a mile wide.

The purposes now answered by the light-houses were, prior to 1676, imperfectly effected by two beacons, one of which stood on the site now occupied by the upper light, the other stood on the north side of the passage going down the Swan score.

There is a Floating Light called the ‘Stanford,’ anchored upon the Stanford sand; it is fitted up with two lamps, which are suspended upon two masts raised for the purpose. This light answers a similar purpose to that of the others. In foggy weather, when the lights are not visible, a gong is beaten at short intervals, to warn vessels of their approach to the sands.

The instructions given to the persons superintending the lights are very minute. The lanterns and reflectors must be kept constantly cleaned, and the lamps must be trimmed every few hours; a book is kept in which the time when the lamps are trimmed is regularly entered. The persons who attend to the floating light are constantly on board the vessel during the time they are in charge: there are two sets of men, (six in a set) each set having remained a month is then relieved.

THE HARBOUR AND RAILWAY.

The Waveney originally emptied itself into the sea between Lowestoft and Kirkley, but being a shallow stream, could not resist the gradual formation of a mound of sand raised by the prevailing east winds, which, in time, effectually cut off the communication between the sea and Lake Lothing. At spring tides, however, the sea would frequently break over the barrier, rush into the lake and over the low lands, carrying away whatever was not sufficiently durable to resist its torrent. Mutford Bridge has been twice carried away by the waters of the sea, though at a distance of two miles from the beach. In 1831 the river and the sea were again united. The harbour was formed under the auspices of Mr. Cubitt, at the estimated cost of £87,000. This harbour and navigation afterwards fell into the hands of Government, and were purchased of the Exchequer Loan Commissioners in 1842, by Messrs. J. Cleveland, G. and W. Everitt, J. S. Lincoln, J. W. Hickling, and W. Roe. These Gentlemen made various improvements, and kept possession till October 1844, when they sold the property to S. M. Peto, Esq.

The act for improving the harbour and forming the Railway, was passed in the early part of 1845. Messrs. Stephenson and Bidder were appointed the Engineers in chief, Mr. Hodges the resident Engineer, and Mr. Peto, the general contractor. In the enterprise of Mr. Peto originated this great work. Having purchased the harbour and navigation in 1844, he, with other gentlemen, chiefly in the neighbourhood, formed for the above purpose a company with a capital of £200,000.

The new Harbour of refuge is formed by two immense piers, extending for 1300 feet into the sea, enclosing the old harbour and an area of 20 acres. The width between the piers, and consequently of the harbour is 800 feet, and the average depth of water in it is 20 feet. The old entrance within the piers will be cleared away up to the stone work, so that there will be a spacious basin, large enough to accommodate 600 or 700 vessels. The piers consist of a stupendous timber framework, (creasoted by Bethel’s patent process to keep out the worm,) on each side of the harbour, 14 feet high above the water, and 30 feet in width, filled up with immense blocks of stone from one to six tons in weight; these sides present a solid mass of masonry. As the thousands of tons of stone required have to be brought from a great distance in vessels, and by railway, the filling in goes on slowly. When this work is completed, a platform or flooring of four-inch planking, will be made on the top of each pier.

The north pier, after extending straight out east for 700 feet, bends to the south-east for 300 feet, and then bends again to the south for 300 feet more making in all 1300 feet. This pier is intended entirely for business; a double tramway has been laid along it with a large turning table at each bend.

The south pier extends from the shore for 1300 feet straight out into the sea, and is intended for a grand promenade. The head of each pier is circular, and 60 feet in diameter; Light-houses have been erected in the centre of the circle at the head of each pier, and at night a brilliant red light is exhibited.

The entrance to the harbour between the two piers is towards the south-east; it is 160 feet wide, with a depth of 21 feet at low water.

Beyond the south pier a sea wall has been built, with towers of flint and stone, and at the back of it, a broad embankment has been formed for the esplanade, which is a quarter of a mile in length, and 25 feet wide, and affords a splendid view of the sea. The fine Hotel at the northern extremity of the esplanade, presents, in its internal arrangements, a study for the lovers of the curious and the comfortable. Its contiguity to the railway station and the harbour, will cause it to be greatly frequented.

The inner harbour has been dredged to a depth of 14 feet in the channel at low water, and this dredging will be extended up to Mutford bridge. A substantial machine has lately been built, for the purpose of excavating the harbour, which, by her powerful aid, will be rendered accessible to vessels of 15 feet draught, at any state of the tide. She is of 200 tons burthen; her engines are of 20 horse power, capable of working in 20 feet of water; she is calculated to raise 1000 tons of soil per day. Her form, engines, and mode of operations, are in accordance with the latest improvements of the age.

The new wharfing, the various buildings, the offices, engine houses, machinery for sawing timber, work shops, creasote works, coke ovens, coal works, warehouses, stations, and about six lines of railway branching from the piers on the north side of the inner harbour, occupy a space of about sixty acres; altogether this improvement will present one of the finest combinations of railway and sea communication in the country.

The Railway passes from the terminus near the harbour, over Lake Lothing, and through several Villages till it joins the Norwich and Yarmouth line at Reedham. Thus, when all arrangements are completed, vessels may unlade their merchandize at the pier, it may be immediately placed in the railway carriage and transported to Norwich, London, or any part of England with the greatest facility.

THE INFIRMARY

is situated at the western extremity of the town on the road leading to the church. The society by which this building has been erected was formed in 1822, but the building itself was not erected till 1839. It comprises two spacious wards, well ventilated and warmed, and other necessary conveniences. It has attached to it, a small museum of morbid anatomy, presented by W. C. Worthington, Esq., Surgeon to the Infirmary. Funds are now much required for providing suitable food for the distressed inmates, whose means frequently do not allow them to procure what is necessary for them, whilst receiving the medical assistance afforded by the institution.

THE FISHERMEN’S HOSPITAL

is a neat series of six cottages built below the town, for aged and infirm fishermen. The cost of the whole erection was £600.

ALMS-HOUSES.

The giver of two houses (formerly four, but two were destroyed by fire in 1707) in the Fair lane, originally part of the parish work-house, is unknown. The giver of a house towards the south end of the High street, is also unknown.

James Hocker, a labourer, who died in 1710, gave his _All_, about £120; with part of which, a stone and brick house in the Fair lane was bought, which is now occupied by such persons as the churchwardens appoint.

Martin Brown, merchant, of Rotterdam, left a sum of money, under the management of Mr. Wilde, sufficient to erect four houses for poor persons; with which the alms-houses at the west end of Bell lane were erected in 1716.

Before leaving this division of our history, we direct our readers to an episode or two of widely opposite characters; the first is

LOWESTOFT AND THE WITCHES.