Part 1

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Transcriber's Note

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections is found at the end of the text.

THE

NEW GUIDE

TO

KNITTING & CROCHET.

BY

MARIE JANE COOPER.

PUBLISHED By J. S. COOPER,

FOREIGN AND BRITISH DEPOT OF BERLIN PATTERNS, AND MATERIALS FOR LADIES' FANCY WORKS,

ROYAL MARINE LIBRARY,

MARINE PARADE, HASTINGS:

AND

PARRY, BLENKARN & CO., LONDON.

THE NEW GUIDE TO KNITTING AND CROCHET,

DEDICATED BY PERMISSION, TO THE COUNTESS OF WICKLOW,

Whose kindness to the Authoress, will ever be remembered with grateful feelings of respect,

By her most obedient servant,

MARIE JANE COOPER

PREFACE.

I venture to publish THE NEW GUIDE TO KNITTING AND CROCHET, believing it will prove both instructive and amusing to those Ladies, whose taste leads them to such pursuits. The Authoress being practically acquainted with these Arts, she warrants them correct, and trusts they will meet with a favourable reception by the Public, and be found a useful appendage to every work-table.

HASTINGS, January 1847.

INDEX.

Page _Siberian Cuffs_ 1 _Leaf Pattern for a Pincushion_ 2 _Twisted Knitting_ 3 _Vandyke Border_ ib _Open-knitted Lace Cuffs_ 4 _Prudence Cap_ 5 _Cardinal Cape_ ib _Shell-Pattern Purse_ 6 _A very beautiful Cap Crown_ ib _Head Piece for Cap_ 8 _Insertion for Cuffs_ 9 _Feather Pattern_ 10 _Edgings_ ib _Another Edge_ 11 _Leaf Stitch_ ib _Knitted Muff_ 12 _Long Sleeves for under a Dress_ ib _Opera Cap_ 13 _Shetland Shawl_ 14 _Star-Pattern Shawl_ 15 _Shetland Knitted Scarf_ 16 _Leaf Pattern for an Anti-Macassar_ 17 _Knitted Fringe_ 18 _Knitted Bag, with black, garnet, or steel Beads_ ib _Directions for a full-sized Quilt_ 19 _Chair Back Pattern_ ib _A broad open Lace_ 20 _Hour-Glass Pattern Cuffs_ 21 _A very handsome Mat_ ib _Ribbed Mitts_ 24 _Watch Chains_ ib _Directions for a Purse_ ib _A Bag to hold Wools_ 25 _Baby's Shoes_ ib _Toilet Cushion_ 26 _A Stocking_ ib _Knitted Fringe_ 28 _Carriage Boots_ ib _Baby's Hood_ 29 _For the Hood_ ib _Knitted Bustle_ 30 _Anti-Macassar_ ib _Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts_ 31 _Ruff for the Neck_ 32 _Polka Coat, for a Child_ 33 _A very pretty Fringe_ 35 _Under Sleeves_ 36 _Baby's Knitted Body_ 39 _Band for Baby's Body_ 40 _Edging for ditto_ 43 _Gentleman's Woollen Gloves_ 44 _To form a Pattern for the Back_ ib

CROCHET

_Directions for the different stitches in close and open Crochet_ 46 _Raised Crochet_ 47 _Chain Open Crochet_ ib _Single Open Crochet_ ib _Double Open Crochet_ 48 _Treble Open Crochet_ ib _Vandyke Open Crochet_ ib _A pretty Neck Tie_ 49 _A new Sofa Pillow_ ib _A Carpet Bag_ ib _A Neck Rest, or Cushion_ 50 _A Brioche, or Turkish Cushion_ 51 _A very elegant Bag_ 52 _Original Pattern for a Crochet Collar_ 53 _Plain Purse_ 55 _Mouchoir Case_ ib _Warm Muffatees_ ib _Raised Crochet Slippers_ 56 _Anti-Macassar_ ib _Shawl_ 57 _Watch Chains_ 58 _Ladies' Cuffs_ ib

THE NEW GUIDE

TO

KNITTING AND CROCHET

SIBERIAN CUFFS.

Nine shades of wool used double, or double Berlin, either in shades of sable or chinchilli, look best. Cast on sixty stitches, knit three plain rows with the darkest shade; in the fourth row seam two stitches together; pass the wool round, seam two together; pass the wool round, seam two together, and so on till the end of the row. Join on the next shade, and knit three plain rows. In the fourth row, seam two together; pass the wool round, and seam two together the same as before; continue in this manner knitting three plain rows and an open row of each shade, until the ninth of white. Only knit two plain rows; this will reverse the shades: join the second lightest shade, and knit one plain row and one open row; two plain rows; continue knitting one plain row, one open row, and two plain rows of each shade; it will then correspond in appearance with the other side; then sew the two edges together, and let the join come in the centre of the wrong side, and it will look as though knit double.

LEAF PATTERN FOR A PINCUSHION.

Cast on each needle forty-five stitches, fifteen for each pattern. _First round_--pass the thread in front, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, knit one, and bring the slipped stitch over the last knit, knit six, bring the thread forward; knit one; continue this till the round is completed. _Second round_--thread before, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, and cast the slipped over; knit the remaining stitches plain; in the first row you have increased one stitch in every fifteen; the second brings them to the original number; knit these rounds alternately, making the holes (which occur in every alternate row) one stitch sooner each time, _i. e._, knitting five, then four, then three, then two, then one, instead of six stitches, and plain to the purled stitches, then commence as before.

TWISTED KNITTING.

Begin with about twenty stitches on one needle, and with the other knit two or three plain rows; next row knit six plain, purl eight, knit the remainder plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows; next row, when the right side is towards you, after knitting the first six stitches plain, take a third needle, and slip off four stitches, and keep them behind till you have knit the next four; then knit them; this forms the twist; then knit the remaining six plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows; then repeat the twist.

VANDYKE BORDER.

Cast on nine stitches, slip one, knit one, bring the thread forward, and knit two together for three times, thread forward, knit one, purl the next row; repeat these two rows alternately, increasing one plain stitch each time in the fancy row, until you have eighteen stitches; to decrease the point, slip the first, knit two together, bring the thread forward, and knit two together for four times, until it is reduced to nine stitches; every alternate row is purled.

OPEN KNITTED LACE CUFFS.

Needles No. 20, and No. 34, Boar's-head cotton. Cast on thirty-four stitches, knit four plain rows. _Fifth row_--knit two, slip one, knit one, pass the slipt one over the knitted one, bring the thread forward, knit one, thread forward, knit one, thread forward, purl one, and so on to the end of the row. Commence the next row by slipping one, and continue as before, till you come to the end of the row, where you will have two plain stitches left, which are to be knit; continue with these rows alternately, until the cuff is long enough for the wrist, then cast off the stitches, and edge it with narrow Valenciennes lace, or with the Vandyke edging.

PRUDENCE CAP.

Cast on fifty stitches coloured wool, knit eight rows, knitting and purling alternate rows, and twisting each stitch; five rows of coloured, and four of white wool, knit loosely on small ivory pins, for the edge.

CARDINAL CAPE.

Cast on seventy-two stitches in the Brioche stitch, which is done by bringing the wool forward; slip one stitch off underneath, and knit two together, coloured wool, and knit one row, besides the casting-on row, white wool, knit four times from end to end; and then leave six stitches each time, till you have formed one gore; twice and back with coloured wool; and then another white gore; fourteen white gores, and finish with one coloured row; and then cast off. Border for the lower end, with an open scollop: run one string round the row of holes, and another string in a few stitches lower to form the waist; the Brioches are done in the same manner; but twelve gores, and each different colours; you cast on sixty stitches instead of seventy-two: six oz. white, and two coloured four-thread fleecy, or double Berlin wool, is enough for cape and border.

SHELL PATTERN PURSE.

Cast on ninety-six stitches, pins No. 19; thread a row of beads; knit three plain rows; purl the close scollop; and every purl stitch knit a bead, twelve rows of beads deep at each end; and ten rows of beads deep in the middle; three plain rounds; cast off.

A VERY BEAUTIFUL CAP CROWN.

No. 22 pins, and 60, Boar's-head cotton. Cast on three stitches on each of three needles. _First row_--plain. _Second row_--make one, knit one, to the end of the row. _Third_--plain. _Fourth_--make one, knit two, to the end. _Fifth_--plain. _Sixth_--make one, knit three. _Seventh_--plain. _Eighth_--make one, knit four. _Ninth_--plain. _Tenth_--make one, knit five. _Eleventh_--plain. _Twelfth_--make one, knit six. _Thirteenth_--plain. _Fourteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit four. _Fifteenth_--plain. _Sixteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit three. _Seventeenth_--plain. _Eighteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit two. _Nineteenth_--plain. _Twentieth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit one. _Twenty-first_--plain. _Twenty-second_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over. _Twenty-third_--plain.

BORDER.

_Twenty-fourth row_--purl; catch up a stitch at each point of the star. _Twenty-fifth_--purl. _Twenty-sixth_--knit two stitches together, all round. _Twenty-seventh_--throw the thread over the needle, before every stitch. _Twenty-eighth_--plain. _Twenty-ninth_--purl; now begin at _row twenty-five_, and knit the border over again twice.

HEAD-PIECE OF THE CAP.

A round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds, bring the cotton forward, take two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds, bring cotton forward, and knit two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds; a round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds; bring the cotton forward, knit two together, knit five; bring cotton forward, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three; knit two together, bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three-knit two together, knit five; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one, knit two together, bring cotton forward, knit one stitch.

INSERTION FOR CUFFS.

A row of eyelet holes, done by bringing the cotton forward, and knitting two together; afterwards five plain rows; knit six, pass the seam stitch over, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together, four plain; knit four; pass the seam stitch over, bring cotton forward, and knit two together, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one; knit three; pass the seamed stitch over, bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three; bring cotton forward, knit two together, take one off; knit two together, and draw over.

FEATHER PATTERN.

Nineteen stitches for each pattern on three pins; bring the thread forward, and knit one, three times; take two together, three times; knit one (centre stitch), decrease three times more, increase three times; knit three plain rounds.

EDGINGS.

Cast on twelve stitches. _First row_--knit three, make one, take two together, knit one, make one, take two together, three times over. _Second_--knit two, and purl one, three times; knit three, make one, take two, knit one. _Third_--knit three, knit three, make one, take two together, knit ten. _Fourth_--cast off three, knit eight, make one, take two, knit one.

ANOTHER EDGE.

Cast on eight stitches. _First row_--knit three, make one, take two together, knit one, make two, knit two. _Second row_--knit three, purl one, knit three, make one, take two together, knit one. _Third row_--knit three, make one, take two, knit five. _Fourth row_--cast off two, knit four, make one, take two, knit one; commence again.

LEAF STITCH.

This is for one pattern only. Cast on eight stitches. _First row_--make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, take two together, knit two. _Second row_--plain. _Third row_--make one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish, knit one. _Fourth row_--plain. _Fifth row_--make one, knit five, make one, diminish. _Sixth row_--plain; diminish by taking two stitches off together, knitting one, and drawing two over the knitted one.

KNITTED MUFF.

Cast on forty-five stitches, every row alike; slip a stitch at the beginning, knit one, purl one, repeat to the end a piece about twenty inches in length, enough for a moderate sized muff, lined with Gros-de-Naples, stuffed with wool, and enough horse hair to keep it in shape: shades of wool to imitate sable, are the best colours.

LONG SLEEVES TO WEAR UNDER A DRESS.

No. 14 pins, and six-thread embroidery fleecy. Cast on forty-two stitches loosely, and knit and purl three stitches alternately, for twelve turns; knit ten turns plain; knit thirty-five turns plain, increasing one stitch on each turn; knit twenty turns plain, increasing one stitch every other turn; repeat the twelve turns, as at the beginning.

OPERA CAP.

Cast on seventy-four stitches white wool, purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row coloured, bring the wool forward, and knit two as one; purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row, knit one row white; this forms the border. _First division_--coloured; purl one row, knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row, knit a fancy row, by taking two stitches together, keeping the wool before the pin. _Second division_--white; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end, knit one row, decreasing two stitches at each end; knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one fancy row as before. _Third division_--coloured; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row without decreasing; knit a fancy row, as before. _Fourth division_, _fifth_, _sixth_, _seventh_--the same as the third, to be repeated alternately with white and coloured wool. _Eighth division_--white. _Ninth_--coloured: in these two last divisions, only two stitches are to be decreased in each, and this is to be done in the row, after the one at each end.

N.B. There should be forty stitches left on the pin in the last row; if the pins are small, begin with eighty stitches, and then there should be forty-six left, instead of forty; pick up thirty stitches on each side, and make the borders at the sides and back, like the first: make up the cap, by turning in the border to the fancy row, and hem it all round: it is to be tied behind, and under the chin, with ribbon, or plaitted wool, with tassels of the same.

SHETLAND SHAWL PATTERN.

Shetland wool, and No. 4 pins; about one hundred and sixty stitches; cast on any number of stitches that will divide by six. _First row_--bring the wool forward, knit one, wool in front, knit one, slip one, knit two as one; bring the slipt stitch over, then knit one. _Second row_--purl knitting. _Third row_--wool forward, knit three; wool forward, slip one, knit two as one, and cast over. _Fourth row_--purl knitting. _Fifth row_--knit one, slip one, knit two as one, and bring the slipt stitch over, and then knit one, make one, knit one, wool forward. _Sixth row_--purl knitting. _Seventh row_--slip one, knit two as one, and cast over, make one, knit three, make one. _Eighth row_--purl knitting; there are to be two plain stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to form an edge; take up the stitches on each ride, and knit the border in the feather pattern, increasing one stitch at each end of the rows, to form the corner.

STAR-PATTERN SHAWL, IN TWO COLOURS.

Cast on four stitches in blue wool. _First row_--wool before the pin, knit one, wool before, slip one, knit two not together; pass the slipt stitch over them; repeat this to the end. _Second row_--purl knitting in claret. _Third row_--game as the first, in blue. _Fourth row_--same as the second, in claret; repeat these rows until there are one hundred and eighty stitches on the pin: cast off and finish with a fringe; as the increasing adds an irregular stitch, some rows will have one, and others two knitted stitches at the commencement.

SHETLAND KNITTED SCARF.

Commence with the pattern of the border by casting on one hundred stitches for the width of the scarf; No. 4 pins and Shetland wool are required. _First row_--knit two together four times, bring the wool forward, and knit one eight times, knit two as one four times, purl one, repeat to the end of the row. _Second row_--purled. _Third row_--plain. _Fourth row_--purled; repeat from the first row, until the pattern is about fourteen inches deep. Commence the centre as follows (this is done in white wool--the borders in shades). _First row_--plain knitting before beginning the pattern. _First row_ of the pattern, wool before, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, purl one; repeat to the end of the row. _Second and following rows_--repeat, every row being alike; both ends of the scarf are to be made the same, by reversing the knitting of the border; they may be finished with a red knitted or netted fringe of the same wool doubled twice.

LEAF PATTERN, FOR AN ANTI-MACASSAR.

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by eight. _First row_--make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, slip two as one, knit one, and draw the slipt ones over it; purl back. _Third row_--make one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish; knit one, purl back. _Fifth row_--make one, knit five; diminish; purl back. _Seventh row_--diminish, knit two, make one, knit one, make one, purl back. _Ninth row_--knit one, diminish, knit one, make one, knit three, make one, purl back. _Eleventh row_--make one, knit five, make one, purl back.

KNITTED FRINGE.

Cast on seven stitches, slip the first, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together twice, then put the needle into the last stitch, without drawing it out, until you have wound the cotton round two fingers three times, the whole of which must be taken together as one stitch; knit the last stitches back row plain knitting.

KNITTED BAG, WITH BLACK, GARNET, OR STEEL BEADS.

Thread half a bunch of beads on a skein of coarse netting silk, and cast on eighty-eight stitches. _First and second row_ plain knitting without beads. _Third row_--slip one, knit one with a bead, knit one to the end of the row; repeat from first row eighty-four times; observe, at the commencement of every row, to make a slipt stitch; join up the two sides, leaving an opening at the top, and finished with two bars and a gold or steel chain, a fringe of the garnet beads, with gold points; it should have a stiff lining. No. 16 pins, eight skeins of silk, and four bunches of beads, including those required for the fringe, will be wanted.

DIRECTIONS FOR A FULL-SIZED QUILT.

No. 18 COTTON, No. 20 PINS.

Eight stripes with one hundred and thirteen stitches for each, with a border of fifty stitches; a counterpane without a border will require more stripes.

CHAIR BACK PATTERN.

Cast on one hundred and eighty stitches, pins No. 12; knit the length on the pins; pattern stitch is cast over twice, and take two as one; knit one; do this for five rows, knitting back plain each time; then reverse the pattern; then cast over twice; knit one and take two five times.

A BROAD OPEN LACE.

Cast on fifteen stitches, slip one, knit one, turn over four times; knit two as one; turn over; knit two as one; repeat; turn over; knit two as one four times more; knit one. _Second row_--slip one, knit twelve, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit two. _Third row_--plain knitting. _Fourth row_--plain. _Fifth row_--slip one, knit one, turn over five times, knit two as one, turn over, knit two as one, repeat, turn over, knit two as one five times more, knit one. _Sixth row_--slip one, knit fifteen, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit three. _Seventh row_--plain. _Eighth row_--plain. _Ninth row_--cast off seven, and begin at the first row to knit one, turn over four times, and commence again.

HOUR GLASS PATTERN CUFFS.

To be sewn down at one end; cast on sixty loops, knit twenty-two rows of white, then two rows of each colour, three shades are required, and white, four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades; four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades, four of white, six of white, ribbed two, and knit two, two coloured of each shade ribbed; the same ten of white ribbed ditto, two of coloured, six of white, and cast off.

A VERY HANDSOME MAT.