LETTER XX
A NEW ALIMENT.
Bifrons Villa.
Here, dear Eloise, is an entirely new aliment, which has never yet been introduced into this country. A semi-epicure of our acquaintance, on returning from his visit to the National Guard of France, presented me with a pound of it, which he had purchased in Paris; but even there, said he, it is almost in its infancy; you may fancy, if I were not anxious of making an immediate trial of it; but before I give you the receipt how to use it, let me tell you I have found it most delicious. Mr. B. has not yet tasted it, being for a week in the country, but I am confident he will like it, especially for breakfast: but the puzzle is, after my pound is used, how we are to get more? Time, I suppose, will teach us. It appears that we are indebted for it to a celebrated French gentleman, M. le Docteur Lamolte, the inventor of the electric light, who ingeniously, though oddly, named it Cho-ca, being a scientific composition of _chocolat_ and _café_, the alliance of which balancing admirably their excellence and virtue, and partly correcting their evils, the first being rather irritable, the second heavy. But I think, if my recollection serves me rightly, the idea of this compound must have originated from that great French philosopher, M. de Voltaire, who constantly, for his breakfast, partook of half café-au-lait and half chocolate, which were served at the same time in separate vessels in a boiling state, and poured from each slowly, about eighteen inches in elevation from his cup, which, he said, made it extremely light and digestible.
Years after, that still more extraordinary man, Napoleon Bonaparte, became so partial to it, that he made a constant use of it, and it has often been remarked by those who surrounded his person, that after the great excitement and fatigue of a battle he has often partaken of two or three cups, which seemed to restore all the strength and energy which used to characterize that great man; on ordinary occasions one cup would suffice him, but served more _à la militaire_, not being poured so scientifically as did the Fernaise philosopher.
The approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters speaks volumes in favor of the Cho-ca, which ought to be immediately introduced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest you to learn that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe was made and presented to Louis XIV, at his magnificent palace of Versailles, by the Ambassador from the Sublime Porte in the year 1664, when the noble potentate, whose palate was as delicate as he was himself great, pronounced it excellent; and immediately perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce such a delicacy into France as food, which a short time after took place, and was very successfully received there; also the chocolate, which is made from cacao, was first introduced to the Cardinal Mazarin, who, having partook of the first cup like Louis XIV. did of the coffee, and not a worse judge than his illustrious master, remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is much to be regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of continually tracing on innumerable yards of canvass the horrors of war, the destruction of a fleet by fire and water, the plague, the storm, the earthquake, or an eruption and destruction of a city by an avalanche or an inundation; if we cannot do without those painful historical reminiscences, why not add to those mournful collections a group of Louis XIV. and his court at Versailles, where he, magnificently dressed, was receiving from the hands of the said Pacha, not a cup of coffee, but a branch of that plant covered with its precious berries; and why not also, as a pendant, Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking the first cup of chocolate; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of Cho-ca to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam? These subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalized on canvass, why? because they have never done harm or evil to any one; but, on the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be, among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity: it would also engrave in our minds, as well as in our history, to what mortals we are indebted for the importation and introduction of such important productions, which daily constitute a part of our comforts, and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind; but, as usual, dear Eloise, you will no doubt reproach me for having so much enthusiasm; however, as on this subject you have been tolerably quiet lately, I not only here inclose you the receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes of this new aliment, the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making it as follows:--
880. _Cho-ca._--Scrape or grate it; put a pint of milk in a stewpan or chocolate-pot, and place it on the fire, with two ounces of sugar, boil it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well for two minutes, and serve.
ON CARVING.
You reproach me for not having said a word about carving; I have not done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our sex need not study, but at the same time it is well to know a little of it. It is rather difficult to give you a correct description without drawings, but a few general remarks may be useful.
Cut Beef, Veal, Ham, Tongue, and Breasts of Poultry, with a sharp knife, very thin; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker.
Never rise from your seat to carve; never cut across the grain of the meat, that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen some persons do, and Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it is only those do so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the true flavor of the meat.
Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve the leg and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the breast, detaching the leg and wing at the same time, which is greatly facilitated by the use of the Tendon Separator--one of which I purchased at Bramah's, in Piccadilly; it is the greatest boon ever conferred on a bad carver: the directions for using it are given with it. If it was more generally used, there would be no more birds flying across the table in the faces of guests; no more turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentleman's lap; no more splashing of gravy to spoil satin dresses; but all would be divided with the greatest facility, and in the most elegant manner, and the poultry would look much better at table.
Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be left; but game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the backbone. For a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should always be cut when hot, and the upper part cut straight from the backbone towards the outside of the ribs, by this plan you will not spoil the appearance of the joint.
Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and slanting.
Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and then carve thin slices, with a little fat.
Aitch-bone, the same.
Fillet of Veal, the same.
Loin of Veal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the kidney, and fat to each person.
Shoulder of Veal, begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting.
Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many persons; instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your knife under the meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it like thin chops, serving lean and fat together; according to the usual plan, a saddle of mutton will serve but few people, and the flavor of the meat is not so good as when served this way.
Necks and Loins: the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw, and not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve slanting.
Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and cutting a slice from that through the loin; but by a plan I have adopted, I find that the meat eats better, and the joint goes farther. I carve it like the leg and saddle, that is, I cut a slice out of the leg part and a slice from the loin, and serve together. This is more economical, but would not do for venison.
Lamb.--For Leg and Shoulders, proceed as for Mutton. The Ribs, when well prepared and the bones properly separated, carve into cutlets, and serve with a piece of the brisket.
Quarter of Lamb: the ribs should be sawed through, and the bones disjointed previous to cooking. The shoulder should be then nicely removed, the seasoning added; then divide the ribs and serve one part of the brisket to each person.
Pork: proceed like the Mutton.
In carving a Ham, remove a thick slice, of about one inch, flat cut slantways from the knuckle-end--a Tongue, begin three inches from the tip, and cut thin slanting slices.
LETTER No. XXI
THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.
MY DEAR ELOISE,--Having now arrived at the conclusion of our labors, during which you have in many instances thought me rather severe, and perhaps too _exigeant_ in my remarks, especially about the selection, preparation, and cooking of food in general, which even to the last I must maintain, that for want of judgment and a little care, the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is often destroyed, which constitutes a considerable waste, being of no good to any one, but an evil to everybody; and when you consider the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this sublunary sphere during the course of our life, the truth of my observation will be more apparent, and make you agree with me that in every instance people ought really to devote more time, care, and personal attention to their daily subsistence, it being the most expensive department through life of human luxury. I shall, for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it, which I am confident you never before conceived. For this I shall propose to take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond which age many of that class of "bon vivants" arrive, and even above eighty, still in the full enjoyment of degustation, &c., (for example, Talleyrand, Cambacérès, Lord Sefton, &c.;) if the first of the said epicures when entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary career, had been placed on an eminence, say, the top of Primrose hill, and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the enormous quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before he attained his seventy-first year,--first, he would believe it must be a delusion; then, secondly, he would inquire, where the money could come from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance? But here I shall leave the pecuniary expenses on one side, which a man of wealth can easily surmount when required. So now, dearest, for the extraordinary fact: imagine on the top of the above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth year, surrounded with the recherché provision and delicacies claimed by his rank and wealth, taking merely the medium consumption of his daily meals. By closely calculating he would be surrounded and gazed at by the following number of quadrupeds, birds, fishes, &c.:--By no less than 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100 calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs; in poultry, 1200 fowls, 300 turkeys, 150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons; 1400 partridges, pheasants, and grouse; 600 woodcocks and snipes; 600 wild ducks, widgeon, and teal; 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves; 800 quails, ortolans, and dotterels, and a few guillemôts and other foreign birds; also 500 hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and 360 wild fowl. In the way of fish, 120 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod, 260 trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 soles and slips, 400 flounders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 herrings, 5000 smelts, and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery whitebait, besides a few hundred species of fresh-water fishes. In shell-fish, 20 turtle, 30,000 oysters, 1500 lobsters or crabs, 300,000 prawns, shrimps, sardines and anchovies. In the way of fruit, about 500 lbs. of grapes, 360 lbs. of pine-apples, 600 peaches, 1400 apricots, 240 melons, and some hundred thousand plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of cherries, strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abundance of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chestnuts, dry figs and plums. In vegetables of all kinds, 5475 pounds weight, and about 2434¾ pounds of butter, 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do. plovers'. Of bread, 4½ tons, half a ton of salt and pepper, near 2½ tons of sugar; and, if he had happened to be a covetous boy, he could have formed a fortification or moat round the said hill with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the digestion of the above-named provisions, which would amount to no less than 11,673¾ gallons, which may be taken as below:--49 hogsheads of wine, 1368¾ gallons of beer, 584 gallons of spirits, 342 liqueur, 2394¾ gallons of coffee, cocoa, tea, &c., and 304 gallons of milk, 2736 gallons of water, all of which would actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young thief or fellow schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante and his immense treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte Christo. You now, dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every way; but to convince you, and to prevent your puzzling your brain to no purpose, I also enclose you a medium scale of the regular meals of the day, from which I have taken my basis, and in sixty years it amounts to no less than 33¾ tons weight of meat, farinaceous food and vegetables, &c.; out of which I have named in detail the probable delicacies that would be selected by an epicure through life. But observe that I did not count the first ten years of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap, bread and milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to the age from then to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure before that age; it will thus make the expenses more equal as regards the calculation. The following is the list of what I consider his daily meals:--
_Breakfast._--Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of bread, one ounce of butter, two eggs, or four ounces of meat, or four ounces of fish.
_Lunch._--Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or game, two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass of wine.
_Dinner._--Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half a pound of meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a pound of savory dishes or game, two ounces of vegetables, two ounces of bread, two ounces of pastry or roasts, half an ounce of cheese, a quarter of a pound of fruit, one pint of wine, one glass of liqueur, one cup of coffee or tea; at night one glass of spirits and water.
Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting the attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and useful art of cookery by our middle classes. I shall also observe to you, that those masses of provisions above described in the exposé of sixty years, have been selected, dressed, and served, by scientific hands, every real epicure choosing through life the best cook, and consequently the best of provisions, which, had they have fallen into the hands of inexperienced persons, would very likely have wasted one third, thereby increasing the expenses, and never giving any real satisfaction to the consumer; therefore let us act in a small way as becomes us, as it is for the wealthy according to their incomes; let every housekeeper devote more time to the study of domestic and practical economy; in many instances it will increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts, as I remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul of sociability, require more attention bestowed upon it than is done at the present day.
Fare you well,
HORTENSE.
INDEX.
Acid, 57
A-la-mode Beef, 164, 165
Albumen, 158
Almond Water, 42
Almond Cake, Iced, 304 Ice, White, 297
Aitch-Bone of Beef, 122
Aliment, a New, 345
Apple Bread, 284 Charlotte, 282 Compote, 307, 308 Dumplings, 294 Flanc, 275 Fritters, 281 Jelly, 320 sauté in Butter, 285 Pie, 296 Pudding, 294 Vol-au-Vent, 273
Apples, Baked, 45 and Fig Beverage, 45 and Rice Pudding, 47 with Rice, 283 with Butter, 284
Apricot Compote, 308, 309, 310 Fritters, 282 Ice Cream, 317 Marmalade, 318 Nougat, 278 Pudding, 294
Arrow-root, 39 Jelly, 40 Water, 44 Broth, 34
Artichokes, 259 Jerusalem, 81, 259
Asparagus, 253 with Eggs, 217
Aspic of Meat, 240
Bacon, to choose, 18, 140 to boil, 141 to broil, 19
Baking, on, 60
Barley Lemonade, 42
Barley Orangeade, 43
Barley Water, 41
Batter for Fritters, 305
Beans, Broad, 259 French, 259 à la Maître d'Hôtel, 259 Haricot, 260 Young, 260 à la Bretonne, 261
Beef, on, 118 A-la-mode, 164, 165 Aitch-Bone of, 122 Brisket of, 122 Croquettes of, 167 Choice of, 118 Essence of, 36 Family Salad of, 167 Fillets of, Broiled, 165 Sauté, 166 to hang, 118 Hashed, 158 Minced, 166 Miroton, 159, 160 Palates, 160 à la Bretonne, 161 à la Poulette, 161 à la Maître d'Hôtel, 161 Pickle for, à la Garrick, 242 Pressed, 242 remains of, 158 Ribs of, Braised, 119 Larded, 241 Roasted, 119 Round of, Salted, 121 cold, 121 Rump Steak, Stewed, 164 Half-round of, silver side, 121 Salt, remains of, 169 Salt, Bubble and Squeak, 163 Sirloin of, 119 Stewed Rump of, 120 Spiced, 242 Tea, 36
Beignet Soufflé, 281
Beet-root, 258
Beurre Noir, or Black Butter, 98
Beverage, Refreshing, 43, 44
Bills of Fare, 339
Biscuit Soufflé, 301 Cocoa-Nut, 325 Cream, 326 Moss, 325 Rout, 325
Blackberry Pudding, 294
Black-Pudding, broiled, 20
Blancmange, 290
Bloaters, 15
Boiling, on, 60
Boudins of Fowl, 197 Turkey, 197
Bottoms and Tops, to make, 11
Braising, on, 60
Braise-Roast, 147
Boil, 148
Bread, to make, 10 and Milk, 30 and Apple, 284
Breakfast Table, 7, 26
Brocoli, 257
Broiling, 63
Broth, Arrow-root, 34 Chicken, 37, 53 Eel, 38 Mutton, 33 Rice, 34 French Herb, 44 Seasoned, 33 Semoulina, 34 Turkey, 147 Various, 34 Vermicelli, 34 Veal, 35
Brown Stock, 77
Browning, 78
Brioche Rolls, to make, 12
Brussels Sprouts, 259
Bubble and Squeak, 163
Buns, to make, 12 Butter, 334 Anchovy, 117 Burnt, 217 Lobster, 117 Melted, 112 Maître d'Hôtel, 117 Ravigote, 117
Cacao, 25
Cake, Almond, 325 Cinnamon, 326 Ginger, 326 Pound, 324 Queen's, 324 Rout, 325 Savoy, in Moulds, 322
Cake, Savoy, or Ladies' Fingers, 323 Shrewsbury, 326 Sponge, 323 small, 324 St. James's, 327 Royal Iceing for, 312
Calf's Brains, à la Maître d'Hôtel, 175 fried, 175 to prepare, 128 Ears, stewed, 174 Feet, 53, 214, 240 Feet Jelly, 286 Head, 128, 130 Curry, 213 Hollandaise, 130 with Mushrooms, 130 with Tomatos, 130 Heart, roasted, 172 Liver, English fashion, 172 fried, 175 sautéd, 172 stewed, 175 Sweetbreads, 173 au Gratin, 174 another way, 173
Caper Sauce, 113
Capillaire, 330
Capon, boiled, 151 and Cresses, 227 à l'Estragon, 157 Pie, 236 Roast, 150 Roast braised, 147 Stewed, 151
Capilotade of Poultry, 193
Carp, baked, 106 Sauce Matelote, 106
Carrot Pudding, 292 with Poulards, 152 Soup, 89 White, 89 Sauce, 73
Carving, 346
Cauliflower, 257 Gratin, with Cheese, 257 Purée, Soup, 71, 89
Celery, 256
Cheesecakes, 229 Lemon, 280 Maids of Honor, 280 Puff, 303
Cheese Soufflé, 304 Raminole, 303
Charlotte, Apple, 282 Russe, 289
Cheese, to make, 304
Charlotte, Strawberry, 289
Chartreuse of Fruit, 290
Cherry Draught, 44 Compote, 309, 311
Cherry Marmalade, 319 Omelette, 281 Vol-au-Vent, 271 Pudding, 295
Chestnut Pudding, 296
Chicken, Boiled, 53, 193 Braised, 192 Broth, 37, 53 Curry, 210 Italian way, 153 Pie, 203 Roast Braised, 192 Roast, for Invalids, 53 Spring, 228 Stewed, 150
Chicorée Sauce, 72
Choice of Pork, 139
Choca, 345, 346
Chocolate, 25 Italian, 25 Iceing for Cakes, 312 Ice Cream, 316
Choice of Meat, 118
Chopping of Herbs, 267
Chump of Veal, 125, 127
Clear Soup, 79
Clarify Stock, to, 79
Cock-a-leekie Soup, 83
Cocoa, 25, 26 Nut Biscuits, 325
Cod, Boiled, 95 with Oysters, 95
Coffee, on, 20 to choose, 22 where first used in London, 21 to make, 22 French, 23 White, 23 made with a filter, 24 another way, 24
Cold Ham, 141, 240
Conger Eel, Stewed, 110
Confectioner's Paste, 270
Conversation on Household Affairs, 336
Compote of Pigeons, 200 of Fruits, 310
Cooling Drink, 42 Lemonade, 45
Cow Heels, 169
Crab Curry, 215
Cranberry Pie, 296
Cresses with Pullet, 227
Cream, Bohemian Jelly, 288 Clouted, 335 Coffee Soufflé, 302 Coffee Ice, 316 Pastry Sauté, 286 Omelette Soufflé, 301 Rice, 299 Sauce, 116 with Spinach, 260
Crécy Soup, 89
Croquettes of Fowl, 195 Macaroni, 285 Rice, 285
Crumpets, to make, 11 to toast, 9 to serve, 10
Crusts of Fruit, 278 Madeira, 279
Cucumbers, 258 Brown Sauce, 67 White Sauce, 71, 73 with Poulards, 152
Curaçao Jelly, 287
Currant Jelly, 320 with Omelette, 281 Red, White & Black for Puddings, 294 and Raspberry Pie, 295 Compote, 311 Salad, 322 Sweetmeat of, 320
Curry, Beef, 212 Calf's Head, Feet, and Tail, 213, 214 Chicken, 210 with Paste, 210 Crab, 215 Fillets of Haddock, 216 Sole, 216 Whiting, 216 Game, 221 Lamb, 212, 213 Lamb's Head, 214 Lobster, 214 Mutton, 212 Ox Tail, 214 Oyster, 215 Pork, 212 Prawn, 215 Rabbit, 211 Salmon, 215 Skate, 216 Sauce, 69 Tripe, 214 Turbot, 216 Veal, 211 Breast of, 212
Custard Pudding, 47, 364
Damson Pie, 295 Pudding, 294
Dartoise Fourrée, 278
Demi-Plum Pudding, 292
Dessert, 305
Dewberry and Raspberry Pie, 295
Diablotins, 304
Dinner, Nursery, 28 Table, 327
D'Office, Paste, 270
Dried Haddock, 16 Mackerel, 97 Sprats, 17
Draught, Cherry, 44
Drink, Cooling, 42 New, 41 Strengthening, 43
Dry Toast, 9
Ducks, on, 156 à l'Aubergiste, 157 to choose, 156 Roasted, 156 Stewed with Peas, 156, 198 Turnips, 157, 199 Varieties of, 156
Ducklings, 228 Pie, 236 Stewed with Peas, 156 Turnips, 157 Remains of, 157
Duck, Wild, 230 Hashed, 225 with Orange Sauce, 225
Ears, Calf's, Stewed, 174
Ecarlate of Fowl, 153
Eels, on, 109 to kill, 109 Broth, 38 Fried, 109 Pie, 205 Spitchcocked, 110 Skinned, 109 Stewed, 109 à la Tartare, 110
Effects of Fish, 93
Eggs au Beurre, 13 Baked, 216 with Asparagus, 217 with burnt Butter, 217 Hard, 14 in Cases, 218 with Cheese, 218 to choose, 12 with Green Peas, 217 with Ham, 19 plain Boiled, 13 Poached, 14 Mashed, 217 Meagre, 217 with Mushrooms, 217 Sauce, 112 Snow, 217 with Sprue Grass, 217 sur le plat, 14 and Toast, 14 à la Tripe, 217
Endive Sauce or Purée, 72
Entrées, or Made Dishes, 158 of Game, 220
Epicure, the Septuagenarian, 348
Escalops, 250
Escaloped Oysters, 250
Eschalot Sauce, 66
Essence of Beef, 36
Fennel Sauce, 112
Feet, Lamb's, 52, 185 Ox, 169 Calf's, 53
Fish, on, 93 French-Anglais way of stewing 110 for Breakfast, 15 Carp, 106 Cod, 95 Conger Eel, 110 Eels, 109 Effects of, 93 Forcemeat of, 252 Flounders, 104 Haddock, 96 Herrings, 100 Mackerel, 97 Maids, 104 Perch, 108 Pike, 105 Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet, 99 Salmon, 94 Sauces, 111 Salad, 247 Salt, 95 Skate, 104 Smelts, 101 Soles, 103 Sturgeon, 96, 97 Tench, 108 Trout, 107 Turbot, 102 White Bait, 101 Whiting, 99
Fish, Shell-- Escalops, 250 Oysters, 250 Razor or Solen, 250 Prawns, 250 Shrimps, 251
Fisherman's Soup, 86
Fillet of Beef, broiled, 165 Veal, cold, 241 roast, 125
Flancs, 274
Flanc of Apple, 275 Fruit, 274 Meringue, 274 what they are, 158
Flounders, on, 104 Water Souchet, 104 Fried, 101
Food, light, for invalids, 33
Forcemeat, on, 251 to make, 251 of Fish, 252 Panada for, 252 of Veal, 253 of Whitings, 252
Fondu, Parmesan, 302 Neapolitan, 302 simple, 302 Stilton Cheese, 303
Fourrée, Dartoise, 278 Gâteau, 277 Rissole, 276
Fowls, on, 149 Blanquettes of, 194 Boiled, 194 Braised, 194 Broiled, 194, 195 Boudins of, 197 Croquettes of, 195 Fricassée of, 195 Fried, 193 Hashed, Indian, 193 Italian way, 153 à l'Ecarlate, 153 à la Marengo, 196 Minced, 194 Pie, 235 Pillau, 209 Pulled, for invalids, 54 Roast braised, 148 Sauté, 194, 196, 197, 199 Salad, 249 to truss, 150
Fowl, Guinea, 229 Pea, 229
French Beans, 259 Coffee, 23 Herb Broth, 44 Panada, 41, 252 Remedy for Colds, 38 Plums Compote, 309 Fritadella, 190 Fritters, Apple, 282 Apricot, 282 Orange, 282 Peach, 282 Soufflé, 282
Fruit, Chartreuse of, 298 Crusts, 278 Flanc of, 274 Rissolettes, 273 Puddings, 294 Pies, 296 Salads of, 321, 322 Vol-au-Vent, 271 Wall, 295
Fricandeau of Veal, 170 to carve, 171 to dress, 171 Various ways, 171
Fritadella, 190
Frying, on, 61
Fry, Lamb's, 138
Fumet de Gibier Sauce, 233
Game, choice of, 229 to keep, 229 Made-dishes of, 220 Salad of, 248 Soup, 92 Tureen of, 237 Entrées of, 220 Dunbird, 231 Garganey, 231 Gorcock, 230 Grouse, 230 Red, 230 White, 230 Half Birds, 231 Lark, 232 Moorcock, or Gorcock, 230 Moor-game, 230 Partridge, 230 Red-legged, 230 Pea Fowl, 229 Pheasant, 229 Hybrid, 229 Plovers, 231 Pochard, 231 Ptarmigan, 230 Quails, 232 Red Heads, 231 Snipes, 232 Teal, 231 Whim, 231 Whewer, 231 Widgeons, 231 Great Headed, 231 Woodcock, 231
Garlic Sauce, 68
Garniture for Omelettes, 219
Garum Sauce, 111 Sociorum, 111
Gâteau Fourré, 277
Galantine, to cook, 238 Jelly, 287 Turkey, 238 Veal, 241 how got, 117
Gibelote of Rabbit, 200
Giblets, 85, 155
Glaze, 78
Gold Jelly, 287
Goose, 153 to choose, 153 Giblets, 155 Hashed, 199 Pie, 236 Preserved, 155 Stewed, 155 Stuffing, 154 Roasted, 154, 155 Trussed, 154
Gooseberry, Green, Compote, 311 Pie, 295 Pudding, 294 Vol-au-Vent, 272 with Rhubarb, 297
Gosling, Roast, 228
Grass, Sprue, 255
Gratin of Lobster, 245
Gravy, Brown, 77 Spinach and, 260 Turkey, 145
Greengage Compote, 308, 311
Greengage Pudding, 294
Groats, Scotch, Gruel, 40
Grouse Pie, 204, 236 Scotch Plan of Cooking, 222
Gruel, 40 Sago, 40
Guinea Fowls, Roasted, 229
Haddocks, Baked, 96 Dried, 16 Fillets of, 216
Ham, Cold, 141, 240 and Eggs, 19 Hot, 141
Hamburgh Beef, 122
Hard Eggs, 14
Hare, Jugged, 226, 227 Roasted, 233
Haricot Beans, 260
Hartshorn Jelly, 287
Haunch of Mutton, 130 Venison, 142
Head, Calf's, 128, 130 Hollandaise, 130 with Mushrooms, 130 Tomatos, 130 Curry, 213 Lamb's, 138 Pig's, 243 Pig's, Sauce for, 243 Pig's, to braise, 243
Heart, Calf's, Roasted, 172 Lamb's, 185 Sheep's, 184
Herbs with Omelette, 219 Minced, Sauce, 67 Italian Sauce, 67 Chopping, 267
Herrings, Boiled, 100 Broiled, 100 Toast, 15
Hotch Potch, 87
Ice, Almond, White, 297 Apricot, 317 Chocolate, 316 Coffee, 316 Lemon, 316 Orange, 317 Pine Apple, 316 Strawberry, 317 Vanilla, 315
Iced Almond Cake, 304
Imperial, 46
Indian Hash, 193
Invalids, Comforts for, 33 Fish for, 49 Food, 33 Meat, 33, 51 Partridges, 54 Pigeons, 54 Poultry, 53 Puddings, 47
Irish Stew, 178 Soup, 82
Isinglass Jelly, 287
Italian Drops, 327
Jam, Apricot, 318 Quince, 318 Raspberry, 319 Strawberry, 319
Jardinière, Neck of Lamb, 136 Sauce, 137
Jelly, Apple, 320 Arrow-root, 40 Bohemian Cream, 288 Calf's Foot, 286 Curaçao, 287 Currant, 320 Gelatine, 287 Gold, 287 Hartshorn, 287 Isinglass, 287 Marasquino, 287 Lemon, 288 Orange, 288 Punch, 287 Quince, 287, 320 Rum, 287 Silver, 287 Whipped, 288 of Meat, to clarify, 239
Jesuits, Turkeys, so called, 144
Julienne Soup, 81
Kidneys, Bread-crumbed, 18 Maître d'Hôtel, 18 on Toast, 17 Ox, 168 Omelette of, 220 Pudding, 168, 207 Sautéd, 18 Sheep's, 17, 176
Kidney Beans, 259
Knuckle of Veal, 127, 240
Lait de Poule, 38 Sweet, 38
Lamb, 136 Breast of, Broiled, 138 Curried, 212 Chop, 52, 166, 186 Curry, 212 Cutlets, 185 to cut up, 136 Feet, 52, 185 Fry, 138 Head, 138, 139, 213 Heart, 185 Leg of, 137 Loin of, 136 Neck of, 136 Pie, 201, 203 Papillote, 186 Pudding, 206 Quarter of, 136 Quality of, 136 Remains of, 184 Ribs of, 136 Saddle of, Russian fashion, 137 Sautéd, 186 Shoulder of, 137
Larks à la Minute, 226 Pie, 226
Laver, 263
Lentils, 262 Soup, 90
Letters-- I, 5; II, 6; III, 26; IV, 27; V, 28; VI, 55; VII, 56; VIII, 57; IX, 58; X, 58; XI, 58; XII, 120; XIII, 178; XIV, 181; XV, 244; XVI, 305; XVII, 327; XVIII, 332; XIX, 334; XX, 345; XXI, 348.
Leveret, 233
Lemonade, Barley, 42 Cooling, 45, 332
Lemon Cheesecakes, 280 Jelly, 288 Soufflé, 299, 300
Leg of Pork, 139, 142 Lamb, 137
Liaison of Eggs, 68
Liver, Calf's, 172, 175
Lobster Butter, 116 Curry, 214 à la Crême, 114 Gratin of, 245 Miroton of, 245 Omelette, 220 Plain, 246 Salad, 246 Sauce, 113, 114
Loin of Mutton, 134 Pork, 140 Veal, 125 Braised, 127
Luncheon, 27
Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel, 98 au Beurre Noir, 98 Boiled, 97 Dried, 97 Pickled, 107 Stewed, 98 Soft Roe Sauce, 111
Macaroons, 326
Macaroni, 265 Croquettes, 285 à l'Estoufade, 266 au Gratin, 266 à l'Italienne, 266 à la Napolitaine, 266 Pudding, 47 Soup, 82 to blanch, 265
Macedoine Omelette, 281
Madeira Crusts, 279
Made Dishes of Beef, 158 Game, 220 Remains of Veal, 175
Maître d'Hôtel Sauce, 73
Maids of Honor, 280
Marasquino Jelly, 287
Marinade of Salmon, 248
Marrow, Vegetable, 257 Pudding, 294
Matelote, 116
Marmalade with Pancake, 282 of Apple, 318 of Apricot, 318 of Cherries, 319 of Pine Apple, 322
Mashed Eggs, 217
Meagre Eggs, 217 Soup, 88, 91 Purée, 91
Meat, Aspic of, 240 for Breakfast, 17 for Invalids, 33 Remains of, 175
Melted Butter, 112
Mephistopheleian Sauce, 75
Meringues à la Cuillerée, 277 Flanc, 276
Milk and Bread, 30 Rice, 38, 39 Semoulina, 39 Tapioca, 39 Vermicelli, 39
Minced Beef, 166 Fowl, 194 Meat, 295 Pie, 295 Pudding, 292 Pheasant, 222
Mint Sauce, 68
Minute, Snipes à la, 224
Miroton of Beef, 159, 160 Lobster, 245 Lobster Salad, 246
Moorgame Pie, 236
Mould Pudding, 291
Mock Turtle, Brown, 85 White, 84
Muffins, to make, 10 toast, 9
Mulberry Pie, 295
Mulligatawny Soup, 85
Muria Sauce, 111
Mullet, or Sur Mullet, to cook, 99 Papillote, 99 Sauté, 100
Mussel Sauce, 115
Mushrooms, Blanched, 74 with Eggs, 220 Omelette of, 220 Sauce, 66, 68, 73, 261
Mutton, on, 130 Boiled, 132 Broth, 33, 34, 82 Chop, 51, 178 Soyer's, 180, 182 Sauté, 180 Breast of, Curry, 212 Curry, 212 Cutlet, various ways, 182, 183, 184 Plain, 51 French Ragout of, 177 Haunch of, 130 Leg of, Roasted, 132 Boiled, 132 à la Bretonne, 133 Braised, 134 Stewed, 134 Loin of, Roasted, 134 Loin of, à la Bretonne, 133 Neck of, Roasted, 134 Boiled, 135 Pie, 202 Pillau, 210 Pudding, 206 Saddle of, 131 à la Polonaise, 131 Shoulder of, Roasted, 133 Boiled, 133 Baked, with Apples 133 Provincial, 134 Stuffed and Baked, 133
Neapolitan Fondue, 302
Neck of Lamb, 136 Pork, 140 Veal, 126 Venison, 143
Nectarine Pudding, 297
New Drink, 41
Nursery Dinner, 28
Omelettes, 15, 219 Asparagus, 219 Bacon, 220 Cherry, 281 Currant Jelly, 281 Garniture for, 219 Ham, 219 Herb, 219 Kidney, 220 Lobster, 220 Mushroom, 220 Macedoine of, 281 Oyster, 219 Parmesan, 219 Peach, 281 Peas, 219 Preserved Apricot, 281 Raspberry Jam, 281 Rum, 281 Sauté Soufflé, 301 Sautéd in Cream, 301 Strawberry, 281 Sweet, 281
Onion, Button, Sauce, 72 Purée, 71 Soup, 91 Stuffed, 74
Orangeade, 46
Orange Compote, 309, 310 Fritters, 282 Salad, 321 Vol-au-Vent, 272 Jelly, 288 Ice, Soufflé, 298 Sauce, 68
Osmazome, 37, 118
Oxen, to judge, 118 how cut, 118
Ox-beef, to hang, 118 Brains, 164 Cheek, 84 Feet, 169 Heart, 162 Kidneys, 168 Remains, 169 Tail Curry, 214 au Gratin, 162 à la Jardinière, 161 Sauce piquante, 162 Soup, 82 Tongue, cold, 240 hot, 240 fresh, 123 pickled, 123 Remains of, 123, 169
Oysters, 250 Escaloped, 250 Curry, 215 Omelette, 219 Soup, 86 Sauce, 115 Stewed, 251
Panada, French, 41, 252
Pancake, with Marmalade, 282
Pap, 29
Parmesan Fondue, 302
Parsnips, with Salt Fish, 95
Partridge, Roasted, 230 Hashed, 223 for Invalids, 54 Pie, 204, 236 Salmi, 223 Sautéd with Mushrooms, 223 Stewed with Cabbage, 222
Palates of Beef, 160 à la Bretonne, 161 à la Maître d'Hôtel, 161 à la Poulette, 161
Papillote Lamb Chops, 186 Sauce, 69
Paste, Beef Suet, 269 different sorts of, 268 D'Office, or Confectioners', 270 Puff, 268 Half, 269 Short, or Pâte à foncer, 269 for Fruit Tarts, 269
Pastry Cream Sauté, 286 Turban of, 304
Peach Compote, 307 Fritters, 282 Omelette, 281 Salad, 321 Vol-au-Vent, 271
Pea-Fowl, 229
Pear Compote, 307 with Rice, 284 Pie, 296
Peas and Sprue-grass Sauce, 72 and Bacon, 74 French way, 254 Green, 254 with Eggs, 217 Soup, 89, 90 Stewed, 73 Winter, 90
Pease Pudding, 209
Perch, Sautéd in Butter, 108 Hampton Court fashion, 108
Pheasant, Broiled, 220 Hashed, 221 Joe Miller's, 221 Minced, 222 Pie, raised, 236 Roasted, 229 Salmi, 222 Stewed with Cabbage, 221
Pickle à la Garrick, 242
Pickled Fish, 248 Mackerel, 107 Pork, 142 Salmon, 107 Trout, 107
Pie, Capon, 236 Chicken, 203 Duckling, 236 Eel, 205 Fowl, 236 Goose, 236 Grouse, 204, 236 Hare, 236 Lamb, 201, 203 Lark, 226 in Mould, 234 Mutton, 202 Moorfowl, 236 Partridge, 204, 236 Pigeon, 204, 236 Pheasant, 236 Poulard, 236 Rabbit, 203 Rump-steak, 202 Sea, 205 Veal and Ham, 202, 234 Fruit, 296 Apple, 296 Cherry, 295 Cranberry, 295 Currant, 295 Damson, 295 Dewberry and Raspberry, 295 Gooseberry, 295 Minced Meat, 295 Mulberry, 295 Pear, 296 Plum, 296 Quince, 296 Raspberry, 296 Rhubarb, 296 Whortleberry, 296
Pies, simple plan of making, 236 Various, 201
Pigeons en Compote, 200 for Invalids, 54 Pie, 204, 236 Stewed with Peas, 201
Pig, Sucking, 141 Hind-quarter of, 141
Pig's Cheek, 142 Feet à la Ste. Menéhould, 189 Stuffed, 188 Kidneys, 189 Head, like Wild Boar's, 243 to braise, 243
Pike, to cook, 105 Sauce Matelote, 106
Pillau, Fowl, 209 Mutton, 210
Pine Apple, 322
Piquante Sauce, 66, 186
Plovers Sautéd with Truffles, 224 Pie, 236
Plum Beverage, 45 Compote, 309 Stewed, 45 Vol-au-Vent, 273
Poached Eggs, 14
Pork, to cut up, 139 Best, 139 to choose, 139 Neck of, 140 Salted, 142 Pickled, 142 Chine of, 140 Cutlets, 187, 188 Hashed, 189 Hand of, 142 Leg of, Roasted, 139 Boiled, 142 Loin of, à la Piémontaise, 140 Normandy fashion, 140 Pudding, 207 Sparerib of, 140
Porridge, 30
Potatoes, 263 Varieties of, 263 Baked, 264 Boiled, 263 Fried, 264 Mashed, 267 Irish way of Boiling, 265 à la Lyonnaise, 265 à la Maître d'Hôtel, 264 Mashed, 265 Sandwiches, 163
Poultry, on, 143 described, 143 for Invalids, 53 to draw, 144 to kill, 143 to pluck, 144 en Capillotade, 193
Poulards, Braised, 150 Boiled, 151 with Carrots, 152 with Cucumbers, 152
Poulard Pie, 236 with Quenelles, 151 with Rice, 151 Roasted, 150 Stewed, 151
Poults, Turkey, 227
Prawn Curry, 215
Preserved Goose, 155
Prussian Cutlets, 191
Pudding, Meat, 205 Black, 20 Beefsteak, 205 Kidney, 207 Ox-Kidney, 207 Lamb, 206 Mutton, 206 Pease, 209 Pork, 207 Rabbit, 208 Suet, 208 Toad-in-Hole, 208 Veal, 207 Yorkshire, 208 for Invalids and Children, 47 Apple and Rice, 47 Bread, 48 Bread and Butter, 48 Small, 48 Cabinet, 47 Custard, 47 Macaroni, 47 Rice, 47 Tapioca, 47 Vermicelli, 47 in Moulds, 291 à l'Eloise, 291 à la Reine, 292 Carrot, 292 Chestnut, 296 Demi-Plum, 292 Iced Cabinet, 287 Minced Meat, 292 Nesselrode, 296 Trifle, 292 in Cloths, 293 Apple, 294 Apricot, 294 Blackberry, 294 Currant, Red and White, 294 Custard, 294 Damson, 294 Fruit, 294 Gooseberry, 294 Greengage, 294 Nectarine, 294 Marrow, 294 Peach, 294 Plum, 293 Plain Baked, 293 Plain Bolster, 294 Plum Bolster, 293 Raspberry and Cherry, 295 Rowley Powley, 293 Rhubarb, 295 Whorts, 295
Puff Cheesecakes, 303 Paste, 268
Pulled Fowl for Invalids, 54
Pullets, on, 228 Roasting, 228 Roasted, with Cresses, 227
Punch Jelly, 287 Cold, 333
Quails, 232
Quenelles. Ragout Sauce, 73 with Tongue, 151
Quince Pie, 296
Rabbit, on, 232 Roasted, 232 Curry, 211 Fricassée of, 199 Gibelotte of, 200 Pie, 203 Pudding, 208
Raised Pies, 235, 236
Ramifolle, 190
Raminole, Cheese, 303
Raspberry Jam, 319 Omelette, 281 Pie, 296 Pudding, 295 Vinegar, 43
Ratafias, 327
Ravigote Sauce, 67, 117
Refreshing Beverage, 43
Removes, 117, 296
Remains of Meat, 175 Lamb, 184 Duck, 157
Rhubarb Compote, 311 Pie, 296 Pudding, 295 Vol-au-Vent, 273
Rice with Apples, 283 to boil, 267 Broth, 34 Croquettes, 285 Milk, 38, 39 with Pears, 284 Pudding, 47 with Apple, 47 Poulard with, 151 Soup, 82 Water, 41
Rissole Fourrée, 276
Rissolettes, little Fruit, 273
Ribs of Beef, Roasted, 119 Braised, 119
Roasting, on, 59
Roasts, Second Course, 227
Robert Sauce, 67
Root, Beet, 258
Rolls, to make, 10 Brioche, 12
Roux, 65
Rump Steak, 52, 124
Rum, Omelette with, 281 Jelly, 287
Russe, Charlotte, 289
Rusks, to make, 11
Saddle of Lamb, 137
Sago Gruel, 40
Salad, Beef, 167 and Potatoes, 167 Fish, 247 Fowl, 249 Game, 248 Lobster, 246 Miroton, 245 Plain, 246 Tartar, 246
Salads of Fruit, 321, 322
Salmon, Boiled, 94 Broiled, 95 Curry, 215 Marinade, 248 Matelote, 94 Pickled, 107
Salmi of Partridge, 223 Pheasant, 222
Salsify, 256
Sandwiches, 333
Sauces, on, 64
Sauce, Anchovy, 112 Anchovy Butter, 69, 117 Beans, French, 72 Beyrout, 114 for Meat, 115 Brown, 65, 66 Cucumber, 67 Mushroom, 66, 68 Beurre Noir, 98 Button Onion, 72 Caper, 113 Carrot, 73 Cream, 116 Chicorée, 72 Cauliflower, 71 Cucumber, 67, 71, 73 Curry, 69 Demi-glaze, 65 Egg, 112 Endive, 72 Eschalot, 66 Fumet de Gibier, 233 Fennel, 112 Fish, 111 Garum, 111 Garum Sociorum, 111 Garlic, 68 Italian Herb, 67 Jardinière, 136 Jerusalem Artichoke, 71, 72 Liaison of Eggs, 68 Lobster, 113 New, 113 à la Crême, 114 simplified, 114 Maître d'Hôtel, 73, 117, 186 Matelote, 116 Simple, 116 Mayonnaise, 247 Melted Butter, 112 Mephistopheleian, 75 Minced Herb, 67 Mint, 68 Muria, 111 Mushroom, 66, 68, 73, 74 Mussel, 115 Onion, 71, 74 Orange, 68 Oyster, 74, 115 Papillote, 69 Peas, 72, 73, 74 Piquante, 66, 186 Quenelles,73 Ravigote, 67, 117 Robert, 67 Shrimp, 112 Soft Roe, 111 Sorrel, 71 Soyer's, 69 Spinach, 72, 260 Tomato, 69, 75 Tartar, 75, 248 Turnip, 71, 72 Tarragon, 67 White, 64, 71 Wild Boar's Head, 244 Wild Fowl, 233
Sardines and Toast, 15
Salt Pork, 142
Sorrel Sauce, 71
Sautéing, on, 62
Sausage Cake, 146, 188
Sausages, to cook, 20 to choose, 19 Cambridge, 20 to sauté, 20, 146 Atherstone, 20 with Turkey, 146
Savory Dishes, 234
Seakale, 255
Semoulina Broth, 34 Milk, 39 Soup, 82
Shrimp Sauce, 112, 113
Sheep's Brains, 135, 176 Feet, or Trotters, 176 Stock from, 177 Head, 135 Heart, 184 Kidneys, 17, 176 Tongue, 184
Sheep, how to cut up, 130 which are best, 130
Shell Fish, 250
Silver Jelly, 287
Skate, to cook, 104 au Beurre Noir, 105 Curry, 216
Soup, on, 75 Autumn, 87 Artichoke, 81, 88 Cabbage, 87 Clear, 79 Carrot, White, 89 Cauliflower, 89 Crab, 92 Crécy, 89 Fisherman's, 86 Game, 92 Giblet, 85 Hare, 91 Hotch Potch, 87 Italian Paste, 81 Irish, 82 Julienne, 81 Lamb's Head, 84 Lentil, 90 Macaroni, 82 Mock Turtle, Brown, 85 White, 84 Maigre, 88, 91 Mulligatawny, 85 Mutton Broth, 82 Onion, 91 Ox Cheek, 84 Ox Tail, 83 Oyster, 86 Palestine, 88 Pea, 80, 90 Pot-au-Feu, 92 Printanière, 80 Purée of Vegetable, 88 Rice, 82 Scotch Cock-a-leekie, 83 Semoulina, 82 Spring, 81 Sole, 86 Sheep's Head, 84 Turnip, 81, 89 Vermicelli, 81 Wild Fowl, 92
Soufflé, 299 Beignet, 281 Biscuit, 301 Coffee, 302 Cream, Whipped, 301 Cheese, 304 Fritters, 282 Lemon, 299, 300 Omelette, 300 Sauté, 301 Cream, 301 Orange Flower, 299 Orange Iced, 298 Punch Cake, 298 Rice Cream, 300 Vanilla, 302
Smelts, Broiled, 50 Fried, 101 for Invalids, 50 Water Souchet, 51
Soles, small, or Slips, 17 Boiled, 104 Fried, 103 Fillets of Curried, 216 aux Fines Herbes, 104 à la Mennière, 103 Sauté in Oil, 103
Snow Eggs, 217
Snipes à la Minute, 224
Soyer's Chop, 180 Sauce, 69
Sourcrout, to cook, 262 Bavarian way, 263
Sparerib of Pork, 140
Spinach, 260 with Gravy, 260 with Cream, 260
Sprouts, Brussels, 259
Spring Chickens, 228
Sprats, to cook, 17 Dried, 17
Sprue-grass, 255 with Eggs, 217
Steak, Rump, 54, 164
Stewing, on, 60
Stock, on, 76 for all kinds of Soup, 76 Brown, 77 to Clarify, 79 Economical, 76 Sheep's Feet, 177
Strawberry Jam, 319 Omelette, 281 Salad, 321 Charlotte, 289 Vol-au-Vent, 273
Strengthening Drink, 43
Stuffing, Turkey, 148 Veal, 253
Sturgeon, 96, 97
Sucking Pig, 141 Hind-quarter of, 141
Sugar, to boil, 313 color, 312 clear, 313 in Grains, 312 of Lemon, 313 Spring, 313 Silk Thread, 315 Vanilla, 313
Sweetbreads, 173 Sauté, 173 au Gratin, 173
Sweet Lait de Poule, 38
Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly, 320
Table, Breakfast, 7
Tapioca Milk, 39 Pudding, 48
Tarragon Sauce, 67
Tartar Sauce, 75
Tarts, small Fruit, 275
Tartlets, little Fruit, 275
Tea, 24 how made in France, 21 Beef, new way to make, 25
Teal, a new method of cooking, 225 à la sans façon, 226
Tench, Stewed, 108 with Anchovy Butter, 109
Toast, Plain, 8 Dry, 9 and Eggs, 14 Haddock, 15 Herring, 15 Kidneys, 17 Sardines, 15 Water, 46 Crumpets, to, 9 Muffins, 9 to serve, 9
Toad in a Hole, 208
Tongue, cold Ox, 240 Fresh, 123 Remains of, 124, 169 Sheep's, 184
Tomato Sauce, 69
Tops and Bottoms, 11
Trout à la Bretonne, 107 Pickled, 107 River, 107 à la Twickenham, 107
Trifles, 290
Trifle Pudding, 292
Tripe Curry, 214
Truffles, Sauté of, 262
Turbot, to cook, 102 French way, 102 à la Crême, 102
Turban of Almond Cake, 304 of Boudins of Fowl, 198 of Pastry, 304
Turkey, Boiled, 146 Braised, 147 Broth from, 147 Blanquette of, 197 Boudins of, 197 with Celery Sauce, 147 to choose, 144 where from, 144 Giblets, 155 Gravy for, 145 Jerusalem Sauce, 147 called Jesuits, 144 Galantine, 238 to dress, 238 with Oysters, 147 Parsley and Butter, 147 Sausages, 146 Sausage-cake, 146 Roasted, 144 Braised, 148 Stuffing for, 148 to truss, 145 with Tomatos, 147 Stewed, 149 Poults, 227
Tureen of Game, 237
Vanilla Cream, 315 Soufflé, 302
Veal, on, 124 Breast of, 126 Stuffed, 127 Stewed, 127 Curried, 212 Broth, 35 Strengthening, 35 French fashion, 35 Curry, 211 Cutlets, 174 aux Fines Herbes, 174 en Papillote, 174 Sauté, 166 Chump of, 125 Fricandeau of, 170 to dress, 171 to prepare, 170 to carve, 171 with all Sauces, 171 Fillet of, 241 Roasted, 125 Braised, 241 Forcemeat of, 253 Galantine of, 241 and Ham Pie, 202, 234, 236 Knuckle of, 127, 240 Loin of, 125, 127 Neck of, Braised, 126 with Peas, 126 with Haricots, 126 with new Potatoes, 126 Shoulder of, Stewed, 127 with Sauce piquante, 126 Stuffed and Braised, 126 Cold, 241 Roasted, 126 Braised, 126 Remains of, 175
Vegetables, to cook, 253 Artichokes, 259 Jerusalem, 259 Asparagus, 253 Beans, French, 259 à la Maître d'Hôtel, 259 Gabanza, 262 Haricot, White, 260 à la Bretonne, 261 Kidney, 259 Windsor, 259 Beetroot, 258 Brocoli, 257 Brussels Sprouts, 259 Cauliflower, 257 gratiné with Cheese, 257 Celery, 256 Cucumbers, 258 Laver, 263 Lentils, 261 Vegetable Marrow, 257 Mushrooms, 261 large, 261 Potatoes, their Introduction, 263 Baked, 264 Boiled, 263 Irish way, 265 Fried, 264 Fried, Mashed, 267 à la Lyonnaise, 265 à la Maître d'Hôtel, 264 Peas, Green, 254 French way, 254 Salsifis, 256 Seakale, 255 Sourcrout, 262 Bavarian, 263 Spinach, 260 with Gravy, 260 with Cream, 260 Sprue Grass, 255 Truffles, English, 262 Sauté of, 262
Venison, 142 where to keep, 142 how to choose, 142 Haunch of, 142 Neck of, 143
Vermicelli Broth, 34 Milk, 39 Pudding, 48 Soup, 81
Victimized Cutlets, 191
Vinegar, Raspberry, 43
Vol-au-Vent, 270 of Apples, 273 Cherries, 271 Fruit, 271 Gooseberries, 272 Oranges, 272 another, 272 still plainer, 272 Peaches, 271 Plums, 273 Rhubarb, 273 Strawberries, 273
Water, Barley, 41 Fresh Fruit, 43 Jelly, 44 Rice, 41 Toast and, 46 Souchet, 104 Smelts, 51 Cresses with Steak, 124
Whitings, Boiled, 49 Broiled, 16, 49 Fried, 50, 99 au Gratin, 99 Forcemeat of, 252 Sautéd, 50 Fillets of, 216
White Bait, to cook, 101 Sauce, 64, 70
Whipped Jelly, 288
Whorts Pie, 296 Pudding, 295
Woodcock, Hashed, 224 à la Lucullus, 223 Sportsman's fashion, 223
Widgeon, Hashed, 225 Roasted, 225
Wild Boar's Head, 243 Sauce, 244
Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce, 225 Hashed, 225
Wine, Port, Negus, 333 White, Fillip, 333
Yorkshire Pudding, 208
THE END.
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FOOTNOTES:
[1] This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been introduced to the public, and was found out by the author of this work through the following circumstance: Whilst travelling by night in a railway train, and arriving in due time at the station, where positively no less than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature, after a long and tedious journey, and then, by using a certain portion of manual strength, to push through the crowd to get at what is called the refreshment room, after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be served with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee, being as bad as any human being could possibly make it, having probably waited patiently by the side of a winter's fire until the last train made its appearance, it tasted anything but palatable; but having a long journey before me, and requiring something to eat and drink, I was obliged to put up with it; but before I could even partake of half, or finish masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, the unsociable bell violently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us believe it; and every one being perfectly aware that railway trains, like time, wait for no one, the hurry of which event, though unpleasant, made me escape the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the bottom of the cup; rushing out of the refreshment room, I jumped into the wrong carriage, the fidgetty train having changed its place, and the time being too short to rectify the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh acquaintance with my new compagnons de voyage, who happened to be as much dissatisfied with the steaming-hot refreshment as myself, who had patronized the steaming Mocha. I was at last much pleased to find a wise man among my new travelling friends, who said, "I never travel at night without being provided with a _spirited_ companion;" and pulling out of his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta-percha goblet of new invention, we partook of a drop of the best _eau de vie_ I had ever tasted, which produced on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to improve the domestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as soon as I arrived at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to simplify the present method of making coffee; and should I be successful in my researches, I would forward him the receipt on my arrival in London. I tried to find my first travelling friends, who, more unfortunate than myself, got in their proper place, and, consequently, did not meet with the "spirited" friend I did, vowing they would never take any more coffee at night, especially in a railway train. Having forwarded the receipt to my friend, he, after having tried it, wrote me the following note:
"MY DEAR SIR,--I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee, which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I never recollect having lasted better. Yours, &c.
W. C."
I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all providers of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee boiling hot, but to keep the cafetière in a bain-marie, which would avoid all the above inconvenience, both as regards quality and heat.
[2] Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a certain time, and which could not be done without employing the night as well as the day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, sugar, and lemon-juice in it, as a beverage, and, with light food, I was enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep from 8 o'clock on Monday morning to 5 o'clock on the following Sunday morning.
[3] Half veal and beef can be used; or if no veal, all beef.
[4] See future Letters.
[5] Foie gras de Strasbourg.
[6] This word is not found in dictionaries, but is used by poulterers to denote that small piece of the lungs which is left in the bird.
[7] The quantity of the meat and vegetable should pretty equally balance with each other; after such a meal, a man's appetite is perfectly satisfied, and he is ready for an afternoon's work if required. It also does not require the aid of any fire, which we so ungratefully abhor in hot weather. Mr. B. very much approves of it once a week in summer.
[8] To freeze quickly any description of ice the freezing-pot must be well set, place it in the centre of the pail, which must be large enough to give a space of four inches all round, break up small twelve pounds of ice, which put round at the bottom six inches in depth, over which put two pounds of salt, beat down tight with a rolling-pin, then more ice, then salt, proceeding thus until within three inches of the top of your freezing-pot; saltpetre mixed with the salt will facilitate it in freezing.
[9] With regard to the wine, that is a matter I leave entirely to Mr. B., but his maxim is, that "the best is the cheapest."
[10] These should be served on dishes with a napkin.
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
sautèing that the butter=> sautéing that the butter {pg 18}
littlle sat=> little salt {pg 39}
spoonfuls of dem-iglaze=> spoonfuls of demi-glaze {pg 68}
skimmer gently for two hours=> simmer gently for two hours {pg 127}
in every dry summers=> in very dry summers {pg 101}
ro plain melted butter=> or plain melted butter {Pg 104}
appiles to this => applies to this {pg 131}
or mushoom or English=> or mushroom or English {pg 148}
ten minntes=> ten minutes {Pg 150}
be broiled or sauted=> be broiled or sautéd {Pg 138}
plack pepper=> black pepper {Pg 206}
rice seperately=> rice separately {Pg 215}
is for preferable=> is far preferable {Pg 215}
delightful and varigated=> delightful and variegated {Pg 254}
in which put your rise=> in which put your rice {Pg 267}
Ribstone pippins=> Ripstone pippins {Pg 273}
fire uutil becoming=> fire until becoming {Pg 293}
shake sugar ever=> shake sugar over {Pg 324}
Mr. P. is obliged to leave home every week day=> Mr. B. is obliged to leave home every week day {Pg 336}