Part 9
I was at _Genoa_ when the Republic sent a Galley to _Antibes_, to meet the famous Cardinal _Alberoni_, who, after having experienc'd the Inconstancy of Fortune in _Spain_, went to _Italy_, with a Design to retire to the Duchy of _Parma_, his native Country. The Disgrace of this Cardinal surpriz'd all _Europe_, except the Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent of _France_, who was the Author of it. During the Truce to which the Cardinal had prevail'd on the King of _Spain_ to give his Consent, the Duke improv'd that Interval to negociate that Minister's Removal; and that he might succeed the better in his Design, he engag'd the Duke of _Parma_, who was the Queen of _Spain_'s Father-in-Law and Uncle, to act in Concert with him, for inducing the King of _Spain_ to put away his Prime Minister. The Duke of _Parma_ charged _Scotti_, his Minister at _Madrid_, to negotiate this Affair, in which he met at first with astonishing Obstacles; but at last the Advantages he promis'd the Queen, on the Part of the Regent of _France_, both for herself and her Children, crown'd the Negociation with Success. The Cardinal was dismiss'd, perhaps, with more Precipitancy than he ought to have been, considering the Attachment he had always shewn to the Queen, and the Care he had taken to rouse _Spain_ from the Lethargy into which that Crown was fallen when he was declar'd Prime Minister. 'Twas on the 5th of _January_ that Cardinal _Alberoni_ found himself all at once abandon'd by every body, and oblig'd to fly from a Country where he had appear'd with more Authority than the King himself. The Order was signify'd to him by Don _Miguel Durand_, Secretary of State, and was in the very Hand-writing of the King, who deliver'd it to the Secretary as he was going to the _Pardo_ to hunt. His Catholic Majesty thereby order'd his Minister to concern himself no more with State Affairs, to leave _Madrid_ in eight Days, and the Kingdom in three Weeks; and moreover, the Cardinal was forbid coming all that while to any Place where the King and Queen were.
The Disgrace of this Minister cou'd not but be the more pleasing to the Duke of _Orleans_, because it happen'd at a Time when the Cardinal was taking his Measures for accommodating Matters with _England_; whither he had sent _M. de Seissan_, formerly a Colonel in _France_, afterwards Lieutenant-General in _Poland_, and now Captain-General in _Spain_, to treat with my Lord _Stanhope_, who was then at the Head of the Affairs of that Kingdom. _M. de Seissan_ embark'd at the _Groyne_, after having been detain'd there a good while by contrary Winds: When he was out at Sea, he met with a severe Tempest, in which he had like to have been cast away; but at length he arriv'd at _London_. He went immediately to my Lord _Stanhope_, to whom he was known, and as he was going up Stairs, who should he meet coming down booted and spurr'd, but the very Courier from _France_ that brought my Lord _Stanhope_ Letters from the Abbot, afterwards the Cardinal, _du Bois_, acquainting my Lord of Cardinal _Alberoni_'s Disgrace. _M. de Seissan_, who knew nothing of the Change that had been made at the Court of _Madrid_ while he was buffeted and toss'd about by the Winds and Waves, went in to my Lord _Stanhope_, and told him, That he was come to surrender himself his Prisoner, because he came from _Spain_ without a Passport, unless he wou'd receive the _Carte blanche_ he brought him for Peace, instead of such Passport. At the same time he produc'd to the _English_ Minister the Full Power which he had from Cardinal _Alberoni_ to treat of a Peace. My Lord _Stanhope_ did not interrupt him; but when he had done speaking, he ask'd him if it had been long since he left _Madrid_: _M. de Seissan_ telling him all the Delays that had happen'd in his Voyage, my Lord gave him the Abbot _Du Bois_'s Letter to read. The Envoy of _Spain_ was Thunder-struck when he read this Letter, and said thereupon to my Lord, That he had nothing to say to all this, and that he resign'd himself to his Discretion, to deal with him as he thought fit. My Lord answer'd him very civilly, That he should be sorry to abuse the Confidence he had repos'd in him, by coming to him without a Passport, and that he would leave him at his Liberty to return to _Spain:_ which he did accordingly, without Delay.
'Twas said that Cardinal _Alberoni_ was so piqu'd against the King and Queen of _Spain_, that he study'd Revenge; and that therefore as soon as he was got out of the Kingdom, he wrote to the Regent, to desire his Protection, and to allure him, that if he would be so good as to give him Shelter at _Paris_, he would let him into the Detail of the most secret Affairs of the _Spanish_ Court. I do not think that any Credit ought to be given to Reports of this Nature, invented for no other End but to blacken the Reputation of a Minister in Disgrace. Be this as it will, the History of these Times, whether True or False, does Honour to the Regent; for they say that this Prince rejected the Cardinal's Offers, and contented himself with sending him a Passport, that he might go to _Italy_. I saw him actually arrive there: He landed in the Dominions of _Genoa_, where his Eminency, depending on the Public Faith, and upon the gracious Reception he had from the Republic, which sent a Deputation to meet him, thought himself perfectly secure. But Fortune, who was in full Cry after him to run him down, was not content with his being disgrac'd by the King of _Spain_; for the Pope wrote to the Doge and Senate, demanding that the Cardinal might be arrested; which was no sooner said than done. Thus, in less than two Months, this unfortunate Cardinal saw himself banish'd from a Court where he was the Dispencer of Favours, pillag'd upon the Road, and depriv'd of all his Papers, in danger of being murder'd by the Miquelets, and at last arrested in his own Country, where he arriv'd in Confidence that the Public Faith would have been his Safeguard. If any Events require Courage to support them, such as these do; but of this Virtue Cardinal _Alberoni_ had an eminent Share, and I was always astonish'd to see with what Intrepidity he behav'd in his Adversity.
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After I had stay'd a while at _Genoa_, I went to _Sarzana_[15], and from thence to PISA[16], which is a City in the Dominions of _Tuscany_, with a University and an Archbishoprick, and was formerly a Republic of no small Consequence in the _Mediterranean_, till it was conquered by the Dukes of _Tuscany_ of the Family of the _Medicis_, who have ever since remain'd Masters of it. The City of _Pisa_ has pompous Buildings: The Metropolitan Church call'd the _Dome_, is of admirable Beauty: 'Tis built in the _Gothic_ Order, and its Roof is Supported by 76 Marble Pillars: The Dome and Roof of the Choir are also painted in the _Gothic_ Style. This great Church is hung all over with Crimson Velvet, adorn'd with broad Gold Lace: In this Church is a Chapel with a very magnificent Altar, the Antipendium of which, and the Tabernacle, are solid Silver of admirable Workmanship. Great Notice is also taken of the Gates of this Church, which are all of cast Iron, with very fine Basso-Relievo's upon them, representing Historical Passages of the old Old Testament. Near this Church is the great Church-yard, which is encompass'd with a Gallery, whose Walls painted in Fresco represent the History of the City of _Pisa_. At a small Distance from this Church-yard is the Baptistery, which is a Chapel built of a round Figure, in the Form of a Dome, supported by Pillars of Oriental Granite, bigger and higher than usual: The Pavement and Steps of the Altar are of very curious Stones inlaid in the Mosaic Manner; and the Preacher's Pulpit is an admirable Piece of Work of white Marble.
St. _Stephen_'s Church is also worthy of the Attention of the curious Traveller, for its costly Paintings, Gilding, Marble Statues, and particularly the rich Spoils taken from the Infidels. In this Church meets the Chapter of the Knights of St. _Stephen_, which was instituted by the Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. _Anno_ 1561, after he had obtain'd a Victory. The Knights of this Order must be Noble by four Descents: They make a Vow of Conjugal Fidelity; and they wear a Red Cross like the Cross of _Malta_, which is fasten'd to a Red Ribbon as the Golden Fleece is, and the Cross is also embroider'd upon the Habit and Mantle. Without this Church, in the Square, is the Statue of the Great Duke _Cosmo_ I. in Brass.
I carefully examin'd the famous Tower that leans to one Side: 'Tis round, and incompass'd with white Marble Pillars that support the Galleries that run round it. I can scarce believe that this Tower was built sloping at first, and am more apt to think it owing to some violent Earthquake, which is a Misfortune very frequent in this Part of the World. They say this Tower is 188 Foot in Height: There's an Ascent to the Platform or Terrass, which is encompass'd with Banisters, by a Stair-case of 193 Steps.
The Country about _Pisa_ is very pleasant: There's a Grove of Cypress at its Gates, whose continual Verdure is delightful. You know, _Madame_, that at _Pisa_ was concluded that famous Treaty between _Alexander_ VII. and _Lewis_ XIV. wherein the Satisfaction was settled which the Holy Father was to give the King, for the Affront his Ambassador the Duke of _Crequy_ had receiv'd at _Rome_.
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From _Pisa_ I went in a Day to FLORENCE[17], the Capital of _Tuscany_, and the ordinary Residence of the Great Dukes. 'Tis call'd _Florence the Fair_, and not without Reason; for 'tis one of the largest and finest Cities in _Europe_.
The Cathedral Church is a magnificent and most spacious Pile: The Outside is fac'd all over with Marble of various Colours: The Inside contains immense Treasures, in Pictures, Statues, and other most curious Pieces. Near the Cathedral is a Church commonly call'd the Chapel of the Baptistery, which is also intirely fac'd with Marble. The Church of the _Annunciade_ is another Structure in the high Stile; in every Part of which are stately Paintings, Works in Gold, Brass, _&c._ the whole of the utmost Delicacy: Yet notwithstanding the Richness of these Buildings, it may be said without Aggravation, that they are trifling in Comparison with the stately Church of St. _Lawrence_. 'Tis of a Hexagon Figure: In the Middle of every Front is a double Pilaster of Jasper, with a Chapiter of Brass gilt, which supports a Cornice and an Entablature of the same, each Pilaster representing the Emblems of precious Stones. At the six Angles there are six Tombs of very costly Marble, and over each a Cushion sprinkled with precious Stones, which supports very rich Crowns plac'd at the Foot of the Statues of the Great Dukes: These Statues, which are of Brass gilt, and twice as big as the Life, are plac'd in Niches of black Marble. The Pedestals of the six Tombs are overcast with Porphyry and a sort of Agat call'd Chalcedony, on which are inscrib'd, in Letters of Gold, the Epitaphs of the Princes whose Bodies are therein contain'd. All the rest of the Wall is lin'd with the best Marble, and costly Stones plac'd in Compartiments or Pannels, the Squares of which are of Brass gilded: The High Altar is of _Lapis Lazuli_ or Azure-stone inrich'd with Jewels. The Thing which strikes the Eye most of all is the Tabernacle, the Magnificence whereof is worthy of the rest. In a Word, I take it to be the only Building that can compare with the famous Temple of _Solomon_, of which there is so glorious a Description in the Scriptures.
Every one knows that 'twas the famous _Cosmo di Medicis_ who laid the Foundations of the Principality of _Florence_, and that 'twas Pope _Pius_ IV. who gave it the Title of the Great Duchy. When I came hither, the Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. was still living, who, tho' very old, had a great deal of Vigour. He was a Man of the most civil Behaviour in the World, which, added to his fair Hair, gain'd him the Love and Veneration of all that approach'd him. I had the Honour to pay my Devoirs to him one Evening, as I was introduc'd to an Audience of him by his First Minister. I found him all alone in the Room, standing and leaning against a Table, upon which were two Wax Candles; After I had made my Obeisance to him, he cover'd himself, and bad me be cover'd too: I intreated him to humour the profound Respect I had for his Highness so far as to let me remain uncover'd; but then he took off his Hat, and press'd me to put on mine, which I did as soon as he was cover'd, in conformity to this grand Maxim, That 'tis the Duty of private Men to keep in the Posture which Princes require of them: But I will own frankly, that it gave me some Uneasiness to speak with my Hat upon my Head to a Prince of the Great Duke's Age and Dignity. His Highness, before he enter'd into Conversation with me, ask'd me whether I spoke _Italian_? I told him that I could talk it a little, but that I did not think I understood enough of it to undertake to speak it in the Presence of so great a Prince as he: To this he made Answer, _And I can speak some broken French_. Nevertheless, he did me the Honour to talk with me a good while in that Language, with abundance of Good-nature. Next Day I got myself introduc'd to the Great Prince by Mr. _Tyrrel_, a Gentleman of his Bedchamber. The Prince receiv'd me very kindly, said he remember'd that he had seen _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, my Cousin, attending the late Queen at _Berlin_, and that he was at my Mother's House while he stay'd in _Germany_; and he offer'd me his Protection upon all Occasions whenever I wanted it. This Prince was married to a Princess of _Saxe-Lawenbourg_, Dowager of the Prince _Palatine_ of _Newbourg_, who was the Elector _Palatine_'s Brother.
The Great Duke _Cosmo_ III. who died in 1723, married _Margaret Louisa_ of _Orleans_, Daughter of _Gaston_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, Brother of _Lewis_ XIII. by whom he had two Sons and a Daughter. The eldest Son, whose Name was _Ferdinand de Medicis_, died at _Florence_, _October_ 30, 1713. without any Issue by his Wife, who was _Violante Beatrix_ of _Bavaria_. The second, now the Great Duke, is _John Gaston de Medicis_[18]. The Princess, his Sister, is _Anna-Maria-Louisa_ of _Florence_[19], who married the Elector _Palatine, John William_ of _Newbourg_; and after that Prince's Death retir'd to the Dominions of the Great Duke, in which she usually resides.
The Palace of the Great Duke is the most stately Building that one can see. All the Relations of Travellers give very large Descriptions of it, but they may be all said to come far short of the real State of it. The Gallery especially is a matchless Piece: 'Tis about 400 Feet long, and has a Row of antique Statues and Busts on each Side. This Gallery leads into several Rooms, which are all full of the greatest Curiosities one would wish to see. In one there are the Pictures of all the famous Painters done by themselves: The second is adorn'd with Porcellane of all Sorts: There is a Table too of great Beauty, inlaid with precious Stones. The other Rooms contain Pictures, Antiquities, and wonderful fine Cabinets of inlaid Work: I was particularly surpriz'd at a couple of Pictures in Wax in one of these Rooms, which are both fine Rarities; but the Artist could not have chose a more melancholy Subject; for the one represents a Church-yard, and the other a City infected with a Plague. There is no looking upon these two Pictures without being struck at the same time with Admiration and Horror.
There is a Piece that makes Part of the Gallery which is worthy of a nice Observation: 'Tis an Octagon Saloon pav'd with Marble of various Colours: The Walls are hung with Crimson Velvet; and the Ceiling of the Dome is lin'd with Mother of Pearl, which makes a very fine Effect. But among all the Rarities which this stately Saloon contains, nothing is comparable to the Great Duke's famous Diamond: I saw the Model of it, which is all that they now shew of it; the present King of _Denmark_ being the last Person to whom the late Great Duke shew'd it in 1769, which creates a Suspicion that this Diamond is not new at _Florence_: Many People assur'd me it was sold, and that the Grand Signior was the Purchaser of it. Be it where it will, the Weight of this Diamond was 139 Carats and a half.
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After having stay'd some time at _Florence_, I set out for _Rome_, taking SIENNA in my Way, which is an Archiepiscopal City that makes a Part of _Tuscany_. The Cathedral Church is built all of black and white Marble. From _Sienna_ I went to MONTEFIASCONE, a City and Bishoprick in the Patrimony of St. _Peter_. My Design was to have gone through this Town without stopping, but the bad Weather oblig'd me to stay at the Post-house: There was such a deep Snow, and at the same time the Wind was so high, and the Cold so terrible, that the Inhabitants told me, that in the Memory of Man they had not known it so violent. I made no great Scruple to believe them, especially after what happen'd to me at the Post-house. The Master of the House carry'd me up Stairs into a great Room, where I found two Gentlemen, the one an _Italian_, the other a _German_, who were both come from _Rome_, and obliged, as I was, by the bad Weather to stay at _Montefiascone_. As we were talking together by the Fire-side, I observ'd a very odd Motion as if we had been rock'd. As I had never felt an Earthquake, I concluded this to be one; but the _Italian_ told me the Motion was too regular, and that, to be sure, it proceeded from some other Cause: And in a very few Moments we were convinc'd that it was the Wind which shook us in this Manner. As we had Reason to fear that the House would tumble upon our Heads, we desir'd our Landlord to put us in some Place where our Lives would not be in so much Danger. The Man laugh'd to see us so affrighted, and to encourage us he said that his House had totter'd as much for these 30 Years past, without receiving any Damage, and that therefore it was like to stand a good while longer: But this was not Reason sufficient to satisfy me of the Stability of his House; on the contrary, thought I, an Earthquake which had happen'd to a House off and on for a matter of 30 Years, must, ere long, bring it to the Ground: And besides, as I had always met with bad Fortune, it was but prudent not to expose myself in Harm's Way; I resolv'd therefore to go down Stairs, the two Gentlemen in my Company did the same, and our Landlord carry'd us to an opposite House, where really we were in a worse Pickle than before. The Fire was no sooner kindled, but we had like to have been suffocated with the Smoak; and we were fain to set open every Window and Door, to let in Air; but the Violence of the Wind was such that we could bear the Room no longer, and we were oblig'd to shift our Quarters again. We went into the Town, in Hopes of faring better there; but 'twas our Lot to fall into one of the most detestable Victualling-Houses in the World; yet we resolv'd to stay there, because there fortunately happen'd to be a Chimney that did not smoak; but while we were thinking we should have some Amends for the Cold we had suffer'd in these Removes, as if it had been decreed that we should have one thing or another to plague us all Day long, this very Chimney took Fire, which alarming the Town, every body flock'd to the Place, and by good Luck the Fire was soon extinguish'd; nevertheless, the Mob join'd in a Halloo against us, as if we had been the Incendiaries, so that I expected every Moment we should be sent to Gaol, till we scatter'd our Money, and then our Fears vanish'd; but the Consequence of all this Noise was, that we were forbid to have a Fire in our Chamber, so that we were forc'd to put up with that which was made in one of the nastiest Kitchens that could be.
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From _Montefiascone_ I went in a Day and half to ROME[20], to which City all the Way from _Florence_ is over Hills and Mountains: The Roads belonging to the Dominions of _Tuscany_ are kept in good Order, and Care has been taken to render them as passable as the Nature of them will permit, by levelling Hills, and making noble Causeys; but as soon as one enters the Ecclesiastical State, the Ways are so terribly bad, that 'tis a hard Matter to get through them. I stopp'd my Chaise about a League from _Rome_ upon an Eminence, from whence is a Descent to _Ponte-Mole_. There I cast my Eyes over that great City, and had a Fore-Taste of the Pleasure I should have, when I came to take my Progress thro' its several Quarters. After having satisfy'd this first Curiosity, I proceeded on my Journey: I pass'd the _Tyber_ over the _Ponte-Mole_, and struck into a pav'd Road, which carry'd me for a long time between Gardens and Pleasure-houses, till I came to the famous City of _Rome_. I enter'd it thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, which led me into a triangular Square of the same Name, consisting of Two Rows of very sorry Houses, and of a Third, which is somewhat better. Here are Two broad Streets, which open in Form of a Goose's Foot, and are separated from one another by Two fine Churches of equal Architecture. In the midst of this Square is the famous Obelisk erected by _Sixtus_ V.
From this Square I went to the Custom-house, where I had my Baggage search'd. There's a magnificent Front to this Custom-house, which is a stately Portico, supported by large Pillars of Oriental Granite. As soon as the Searchers had done rummaging all my Things, I went on to the _Hotel_ of _Monte d'Or_ on the Square of _Spain_, which is but an indifferent Place, being a long and very irregular Square encompass'd with a Parcel of ill-contriv'd Houses, and a Fountain at one End, which serves for a Watering Place.