Part 8
After one is out of the Square of _Bellecour_, we come to the magnificent Stone-Bridge, which unites the Two Quarters of the City that are separated by the _Saone_. As we go off this Bridge, we advance upon a stately Key, that runs along the River, and is call'd the _Villeroy Key_, because it was built by Order of the Marshal of that Name. The Family of _Villeroy_ is mightily belov'd and respected throughout the _Lyonnois_, and while I was there, all the Dignities of this Province were fill'd by one Gentleman or other of that Name. The Marshal himself was the Governor, and the Reversion of his Post was secur'd to his Son the Duke _de Villeroy_, and to the Dukes of _Rets_ and _Alincourt_ his Grandsons: The latter of these is Lieutenant-General of the Province: The Archbishoprick was occupy'd by one of the Marshal's Sons, as the Abby of the Nuns of _St. Peter_ was by one of his Daughters.
The Commerce of _Lyons_ is still very flourishing, tho' it was much more so before the famous Scheme of the Bank Bills, which did great Detriment to its Manufactures: Yet for all that, there's not a Town in _France_ where there are such wealthy Merchants: Their Conversation too is very amiable, and they live for most Part like People of Rank; I don't mean in Point of Magnificence, for which there needs nothing but Money, but by reason of their easy and polite Behaviour, which always denotes a good Education.
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I embark'd on the _Rhone_ at _Lyons_ for _Avignon_: There are considerable Towns upon this River which yield noble Prospects: Such is the City of VIENNE, the Capital of the _Viennois_, with the Title of an Archbishoprick: Here are stately Vestigies of the Magnificence of the _Romans_, who spar'd no Cost to render this a considerable Place: We are assur'd, that _Pilate_ was banish'd hither, and they even shew a House, Half a League or more from the City, where 'tis said he liv'd. But I should be glad to know in the first Place, Whether 'tis really true that he ever came into this City? You may believe as much of it as you please.
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From _Vienne_ I proceeded to _Valence_ and PONT ST. ESPRIT: In this latter Town I saw that noble Bridge which is the Admiration of all Foreigners; 'tis one of the finest and most stately in _Europe_: It has 23 Arches, the Pillars of which are very large with Overtures, in the Nature of Doors, to give a freer Passage to the _Rhone_ when its Waters swell. They say, that in these Pillars there are Vaults, where they us'd to put the Fanatics of the _Cevennes_: The Passage of this Bridge is defended by a Citadel.
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From _Pont St. Esprit_ 'tis but a little way to AVIGNON, which is a City of _Provence_ that belongs to the Pope. _Clement_ VI. purchas'd it of _Joan_ Queen of _Provence_ for a very moderate Sum; since which time it has ever been subject to the Holy See. The Popes made it the Place of their Residence for above 70 Years; but _Gregory_ XI. re-establish'd the Holy See at _Rome_ about the Year 1377. Several Factions arising afterwards among the Christian Princes on account of the Election of the Popes, some of the Anti-Popes liv'd here. The Cathedral, which is magnificent tho' very ancient, is dedicated to our Lady of _Dombes_. _Avignon_ is in general a very well built City, the Streets being broad, strait and lightsome. The adjacent Country is charming and very fruitful, and I thought there was nothing wanting in it but a greater Number of Inhabitants.
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I took Post at _Avignon_, and went to AIX, which is the Capital of _Provence_, and an Archbishop's See; there are also a Parliament and an University: This is without Dispute one of the finest Towns in the Kingdom: I was charm'd with the Beauty of the _Course_, which is the Rendezvous of People in the Summer Evenings: 'Tis in the middle of a fine spacious Street, the Houses whereof are truly magnificent, and several beautiful Rows of Trees adorn'd with Fountains make it a very pleasant Walk. The middle Row, which is separated from the rest by a Rail, is for the Foot Passengers. From one End of the Course there's a Prospect of the Country, and the other is limited by the City. At the End next to the Country there's a Fountain, and a Balustrade of white Marble Breast-high. There's another Course without the City, which is bigger than the former, and every whit as beautiful. The Metropolitan Church of _St. Saviour_ is remarkable for its Baptismal Font, which is a Piece of admirable Structure: 'Tis all of white Marble, supported by filetted Columns, that compass it in Form of a little Dome. This Church has a very high Tower, which is a _Hexagon_, and much esteem'd by good Judges.
The Palace where the Parliament assembles is a noble Building, in the Rooms whereof no Cost has been spar'd for Gilding, Painting and Carving. The great Hall is adorn'd with Hangings of blue Velvet, sprinkled with _Fleurs de Lys_ of Gold: The King's Throne with the upper and lower Seats are cover'd with the like Tapistry: The Persons that compose the Parliament of _Aix_ are almost all Men of Quality, which contributes very much to make a Man's Residence here agreeable: The Nobility in this Place live with Distinction. Besides the Parties made for Gaming, and the Walks, there are Concerts of Music upon certain Days of the Week, to which Foreigners are admitted _Gratis_, the Musicians being paid by a certain Number of People of Quality, who hire them for the whole Season.
After Five or Six Days Stay at _Aix_, I set out for MARSEILLES: This is an Episcopal City of _Provence_, which by being situate on the _Mediterranean_ is one of the most considerable Cities in _France_ for Commerce, and engrosses almost the whole Trade of the _Levant_. 'Tis divided into the upper and lower Towns: The former is the _Old Marseilles_, the Houses of which are very dark, and the Streets narrow and very irregular. In this Part stands the Cathedral of our Lady _la Major_.
The Lower Town is very fine, the Streets broad, most of 'em strait, and the Houses very magnificent, especially those by the Side of the _Course_, which is one of the finest in the World: 'Tis very much like that at _Aix_. This Part of _Marseilles_ owes its Embellishment and Aggrandizement to _Lewis_ XIV. who caus'd Works to be erected there worthy of so great a Prince. _Marseilles_ has a noble Harbour, it being a large Bason, almost encompass'd with Houses, and defended by Two Castles, of which that on the Right Hand is very high, and commands a great way at Sea: That on the Left contains the Arsenal, which is one of the finest that I have seen, and every thing in it is so regularly dispos'd, that it forms a charming View.
The Harbour of _Marseilles_ is the Station for the King's Galleys, on board of which there's a great Number of Slaves, who do almost all the hard Work; they load and unload the Ships: Some of 'em are allow'd to walk about the Town and to trade, but are obliged to pay something to the Man that accompanies them, and to lie aboard at Night. Others, who are charg'd with enormous Crimes, are fasten'd Two, Three and Four together to great Chains, which does not hinder them however from working for their Livelihood. The great Trade of _Marseilles_ and the Wealth of its Inhabitants give this City an Air of Opulence, which is seldom to be found elsewhere: There is hardly a Place where one meets with better Chear, and where 'tis easier to be accommodated with every thing that a Gentleman can desire to pass his Time agreeably. Comedies, Concerts, Gaming, Taking the Air, in short, Pleasures of all Sorts make this a most charming Place to live in, even for People that are ever so opposite to one another in Characters and Temper.
The Suburbs of _Marseilles_ are magnificent: They contain above 20,000 little Houses, call'd by the Country-people _Bastides_, and all encompass'd with very fine Vineyards and Gardens, which render these Habitations very charming in the fine Weather. 'Twas to these Houses that most of the Inhabitants retir'd during the last Plague with which _Provence_ was afflicted, and which held so long as to carry off a great Part of the Citizens. This Desolation would have been much greater, and would perhaps have penetrated into the Heart of _France_, had it not been for the great Care taken by the Regent, that no Correspondence should be kept with the People of _Marseilles_.
_Provence_ in general is a fine Country, and a very pleasant Place to live in at all times, but especially in the Winter. At that time too the Sky is clearest, and there are then some Days, which naturally ought rather to be plac'd to the Account of Summer. I remember I was walking on the Harbour of _Marseilles_ one Day in this Season at 2 or 3 o'Clock in the Afternoon, and that I was forc'd to withdraw, the Weather was so hot. Yet I observ'd that not many Days after a Wind arose, (that the People of the Country call _Mistral_) which was extremely cold, and the more disagreeable to me, because 'tis not easy to get warm in this Country, here being no Wood but some Roots or Branches of Olive-trees, which do not make a very good Fire. Besides, most of the Rooms, especially in the Inns, are without Chimneys, so that one is oblig'd to make Use of a Pan of Coals, which is very inconvenient, to such especially as are not us'd to this Method of warming themselves.
After having for a few Days saunter'd in and about _Marseilles_, I thought it proper to inquire what Ship was bound to _Sicily_; but with all my Inquiry, I could not find out any, and was under a Necessity of going either to _Genoa_ or _Leghorn_. I was assur'd that 'twas but a little way, and that I should be there in a very few Days, so that I agreed for my Passage with a Merchant that was bound to _Leghorn_. The contrary Wind kept us a Fortnight in the Harbour, and then we sail'd; but were forc'd to put into _La Cienta_, a little Town and Port of _Provence_. There I stayed Three Days for a fair Wind, to proceed in my Voyage, and at last finding 'twas to no Purpose, I resolv'd to leave my Trunks and Servants aboard the Ship, and to go by Land.
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The first Day I went and lay at TOULON a City of _Provence_, and one of the best Harbours in _Europe_. In this Harbour lie the King's Ships, and here is the great Arsenal of the Admiralty of _France_, where _Lewis_ XIV. caus'd Works to be made worthy of so great a Monarch. The Road of _Toulon_ is as considerable as the Harbour, and Ships ride there perfectly safe. They say, 'tis large enough to contain all the Ships in the _Mediterranean_. The City of itself is but small, and were it not for the Sea-Officers, 'twould be a melancholy Place to live in. These Gentlemen have caused a House to be erected here, which serves for their Assemblies, it being composed of several Rooms very well adorn'd. Here are the Pictures of the Count _de Tholouse_ great Admiral, the Marshals _de Tesse_ and _de Etrees_, and several Generals and naval Officers; together with noble Sea-Charts. Here one is always sure to find Company enough, and that which is select. At Night they meet in these Rooms, where is all manner of Play: The Sea-Officers make the Entertainments, in which they acquit themselves with all possible Grace and Politeness; and a Foreigner is always so heartily welcome there, that they strive who shall treat him with most Civility.
You know, _Madame_, that the Allies attempted to make themselves Masters of _Toulon_, during the last War. The Duke of _Savoy_ came first before the Place, but was soon oblig'd to raise the Siege, for Want of being supported by the _English_ Fleet, which was kept back by contrary Winds. Others impute the Raising of this Siege to the Menaces of _Charles_ XII. of _Sweden_, who was at that time in _Saxony_, to declare for _France_, if the Duke of _Savoy_'s Army stay'd any longer before _Toulon_. Be this as it will, the Duke's Forces retir'd, after having lost some of their principal Officers, among others the brave Prince of _Saxe-Gotha_, Brother to the Reigning Duke, who was kill'd as he went to take a View of the Place.
From _Toulon_ I went to FREJUS, a Town upon the Sea; 'tis very ancient, and the Citizens pretend that most of its old Monuments were built by the _Romans_: Such are the Ruins of a Causey, that reach'd as far as _Arles_, near the Mouth of the _Rhone_, and the Remains of an ancient _Circus_, which seems to have been a very spacious one. 'Tis said that a great Aqueduct in the Neighbourhood brought as much Water to it from the Distance of 10 Leagues, as was sufficient to support a Naval Combat within the Circumference of this _Circus_. Going out of _Frejus_ there's a long Mole or Causey cut by several small Canals, over which there are Bridges, said to have been made by the _Romans_.
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As I pursued my Journey, I pass'd near ANTIBES, a strong Place on the Sea-Shore, which was heretofore the See of a Bishop, till it was translated to _Grasse_ in _Upper Provence_. From thence I cross'd the _Var_, which River separates _France_ from the Dominions of the King of _Sardinia_; and the Fourth Day after my Departure I arriv'd at _Nice_.
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NICE was formerly very well fortify'd, and its Castle especially was reckon'd impregnable; for it bravely held out against the Army of _Francis_ I. and that of _Barbarossa_ the _Turk_ in 1543. But _Lewis_ XIV. had better Success, for he made himself Master both of the City and of the Castle, which he caus'd to be intirely demolish'd; and having also caus'd the other Fortifications of the Town to be destroy'd, he restor'd it in this Condition to its Sovereign. At _Nice_ we begin to see Orange-trees in such Abundance, that they grow in the open Fields like other common Trees, and they bear Fruit alike both in Summer and Winter.
As 'twas very fine Weather when I arriv'd at _Nice_, I was advis'd to go on board, in order to avoid the bad Roads in the Passage of the Mountains; I took the Advice, and went on board a small Vessel, that was navigated by only Two Men; but I soon repented of it, for in Half an Hour after we put off to Sea we had bad Weather, in which I had like to have been cast away, and 'twas not less than a Miracle that I arriv'd at VILLA-FRANCA, a small Sea-Port in the County of _Nice_.
This Town is remarkable for nothing but its Harbour, which contains Six of the King of _Sardinia_'s Galleys: 'Twas here that this Prince embark'd with his Queen and his whole Court, when he went to take Possession of _Sicily_: And after their Majesties had been consecrated and crown'd at _Palermo_, they came and landed at _Villa-Franca_ in their Return to _Turin_. The Night that I came to this Town there happen'd a terrible Storm, which abated indeed next Day, but the Sea was still in such a Foam, that I did not care to trust it. The Day following proving however as fair as one could desire, I immediately put to Sea, but fell into the same Danger as I had been expos'd to before. The Winds, or rather all the Devils in the Air, were let loose against me; I was, I confess to you, cruelly afraid, especially when I saw my Pilots change Countenance. Nevertheless, I put on the Air of a Man of Courage, told 'em the Danger was not so great as they apprehended, and that they need not be discourag'd. In short, I don't remember every thing that I said to 'em, and perhaps too my Language was not so coherent as if I had been upon _Terra Firma_. Whatever it was, I arriv'd safe at MONACO, a little Town which belongs to a Prince of that Name. The Castle, which looks towards the Sea, is built in the _Italian_ Taste, but is a very plain Building. There is a _French_ Garison in the Town, which is a Detachment from the Garison of _Antibes_. The Prince of _Monaco_, who is Sovereign of the Country, marry'd a Princess of _Lorrain_, by whom he only had Daughters. He marry'd the Eldest of them, and the Heiress of all his Estate, to the Duke _de Valentinois_, Son to _M. de Matignon_.
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From _Monaco_ I went to _St. Remo_, the first Town in the Dominions of _Genoa_, where I took a Boat, which carry'd me to SAVONA, a City in the State of _Genoa_, with the Title of a Bishoprick. This is one of the best Towns in the Republic, and without Dispute the safest Sea-Port in its Dominions. The _Genoese_ have caus'd a City to be built here with Two Fortresses, and several other Works, which render it a Place of very great Importance to the Republic.
I was so heartily out of Conceit with the Sea, that I hir'd Mules to carry me to _Genoa_, whither Two Thirds of the Road are scarce passable, by reason of the continual Ascents and Descents, which are very fatiguing. The only thing that made my Journey agreeable was, riding all along by the Sea-side, which being cover'd with Shipping, forms a very fine Prospect. After one has travell'd some Leagues from _Genoa_, the Road becomes very good; for besides that the Way is very even, one sees a great many noble Houses, with Gardens in Form of Terrace-Walks, which compose one of the most stately Amphitheatres that can be seen, and so it is all the Way to _Genoa_.
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GENOA is an Archbishoprick, the Capital of the State of _Genoa_, and the ordinary Residence of the Doge and Senate. 'Tis the finest and most magnificent City in _Italy_; 'tis not very long that this Republic has enjoy'd its Liberty, it being the famous _Andrew Doria_ who acquir'd it for his Country during the Reign of _Francis_ I. King of _France_, to whom _Genoa_ was subject. Since that time this City is very much increas'd: I enter'd it by the Gate adjoining to the Mole, which in my Opinion is the most proper Entrance, to give a Stranger at the first View a grand Idea of _Genoa_. I was amaz'd at the Magnificence of this Mole, and at the Beauty of the Harbour, which is surrounded with fine Houses, built in Form of an Amphitheatre. But nothing can compare with the Church of the _Annunciade_, where nought is to be seen but Gold, Marble, and the richest Paintings and Sculptures. At the very first Entrance one sees Two Rows of chamfer'd Pillars, of red vein'd Marble, lin'd with white Marble; the Capitals of the Columns are all over gilt, and they support a Dome, which is also gilt, and inrich'd with very fine Paintings. The Pavement is of Squares of Marble in Compartments. I don't undertake to give a farther Detail of the Beauties of this Church, the same having been already so exactly related by so many Travellers, that it would be only a Repetition of what has been said a hundred times over.
The Streets of _Genoa_ are, properly speaking, rather Galleries than Streets, there being nothing but Structures and Palaces of the utmost Magnificence, look which way one will. That which struck me most of all was the Palace of _Balbi_; I never saw any so regular, and with Fronts so conformable to the Rules of Architecture; but then it must be consider'd, 'tis in this grand Outside only that all the Magnificence of the Houses of _Genoa_ consists; for when you enter into one of the greatest and richest Palaces, there's not a Mortal to be seen, so that one would think there are no Domestics, and sometimes 'tis a difficult Matter to find the Master of the House. In a Word, the great Houses of _Genoa_ are mere Solitudes, excepting on Assembly Days, of which there are some held here every Evening at the House of one Nobleman or another. Then the Apartments are nobly illuminated, and there's all manner of Refreshments serv'd up in Profusion. Assemblies of this kind, and a sorry _Italian_ Opera, were all the Pleasures at _Genoa_ while I was there; so that a Stranger does not know what to do here with his Time. Here are also very few Entertainments made, and the Envoys, who are generally they that make the most, conform, when they are at _Genoa_, to the Temper of the People, which is to give their Guests nothing to eat or drink. In my time there was none here but the _English_ Envoy, who did not follow that Custom, for 'twas a Pleasure to him to treat his Friends with good Cheer.
While I was at _Genoa_ the Republic chose a new Doge: I saw him go to the Cathedral, and take the usual Oath: The Procession was on Foot; 'twas begun by some of the Doge's Officers, after whom Eight Pages, in Habits of crimson Velvet lac'd with Gold, went before the Doge, who was dress'd in a long Robe of crimson Velvet, with a Sort of square Cap of the same: He was supported by the General of the _Genoese_ Arms on his Right Hand, and by another Officer of the Republic on his Left Hand, and he walk'd between Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_. The Senators follow'd two and two, dress'd in long Gowns of black Velvet. The Archbishop met the Doge about the middle of the Church, where was a Cushion of crimson Velvet for the Doge, and other Cushions for the Senators, who all kneel'd down as well as the Doge, and after a short Prayer the Archbishop led the Doge up to the Altar; then the Prelate took the Book of the Gospels, and presented it to the Doge, who, falling on his Knees, and laying his Hand on the Book, took an Oath to maintain the Republic in their Rights and Privileges; this done, the Doge return'd to his Palace, where he was complimented by all the Senators, and crown'd Doge of _Genoa_, and King of _Corsica_: Next Day he gave a great Feast to above 300 Persons.
The Doge of _Genoa_ is a living Example of the Instability of human Grandeur: His lasts but Two Years, at the Expiration of which Word is brought to him, that his Time is out, and that he must quit the Ducal Palace, and retire to his own. A Man to be a Doge must be completely 50 Years of Age: You know how very much his Authority is limited; he can do neither Good nor Harm; the only Occasion wherein he makes a little Figure is, when he receives and dispatches Ambassadors in Ceremony.
Another Office, which is even less durable, is that of General of the Arms, which no one Man can exercise above Two Months, for Fear, no doubt, lest he who is invested with it should acquire too much Power.
This Republic was formerly very much inclin'd to espouse the Interests of _Spain_, when that Crown possess'd the _Milanese_, and the Kingdom of _Naples_, because most of the _Genoese_ Nobles had their Estates in those Countries; but now that the same are pass'd under the Emperor's Dominion, the Republic is oblig'd to carry it very fair to his Imperial Majesty, or else the Doge might be sent for to _Vienna_, as he was once by _Lewis_ XIV. to _Versailles_.