Part 7
There were also several very splendid Feasts on the Days following: On the 10th all these Rejoicings were concluded by a Pastoral, that was play'd in the Garden of the King's Palace. There the King supp'd with the Queen and their Royal Highnesses, and 10 Tables were spread for 20 Guests at each, and serv'd all with Porcelain for the Court and Foreigners: After Supper there was a fine Firework play'd, representing the carrying off of the Golden Fleece: That was the last of the Entertainments I was present at, and I made ready to set out for _Sicily_, where my Employment required my Presence: Yet, before I leave _Dresden_, I must say a Word or two concerning the August Family, which resided there at that time.
The Royal Family consisted then of but Four Persons, the King, the Queen, the Electoral Prince and Princess.
The King is one of the best Princes that I ever knew; 'tis impossible to see him without being captivated by his graceful Mien; and his Civility wins the Hearts of all his Courtiers; he has all the Qualities fitting for a great King: His Father dying without Issue, he succeeded him in the Electorate of _Saxony_; and soon after, upon the Death of _John Sobieski_, the _Poles_ chose him for their King: When he was no more than Elector, he commanded the Emperor's Army, and gave authentic Proofs of his Wisdom and Valour.
The Queen is of the Family of _Brandenbourgh Bareith_, and was espous'd to the King, even before he was Elector: She is a Princess of a stately Port, and must have formerly been a Toast, on account of her Beauty, at the Time when she had more Colour in her Face, and less Flesh upon her Bones than she has now. She is very fond of Retirement, and bestows great Charities: She resides commonly at _Torgau_, or at _Pretsch_, and comes but very seldom to _Dresden_: She has a separate House from the King's, which is very suitable to her Dignity; she has also a separate Chapel, the King having given her the old Chapel at _Dresden_ and caus'd another to be built for Himself and the Catholics.
The Electoral Prince resembles the Queen very much: He is tall and very well set, and his Air plainly discovers him to be what he is: He delights very much in Hunting, and those Pleasures that require Exercise; which to be sure is very serviceable to him, for I thought him inclinable to grow fat: This Prince was very carefully educated by the Electoress his Grandmother, who was a Princess of _Denmark_: When he was able to support the Fatigues of Travelling the King sent him to _Italy_, and from thence to _France_, with a Retinue becoming the Son of a King; after which the Prince went to _Vienna_, and 'twas during the Stay he made at the Court that he had an Opportunity of observing the great Qualities of the Archduchess, now the Electoral Princess: You'll judge by the Account I have had the Honour to give you of this Princess, that it were almost impossible but she must be very much belov'd at the Court of _Saxony_; and she soon got the good Wishes of the whole Nation, so that the very People who conceiv'd some Umbrage at the Prince's Marriage, for Fear of their Religion, were quickly reconcil'd to it: For indeed what Violence was there room to apprehend from a Princess so highly distinguish'd for her Moderation and Good-nature?
These, _Madame_, were at the time the whole Royal Family; but now 'tis augmented by several Princes and Princesses, whom the Electoral Prince has had by the Princess his Spouse. Tho' the Royal Family was not numerous when I was there, yet the Number and Magnificence of the Princes and Courtiers, who were then at _Dresden_, made it very splendid: I had the Honour to know most of them very well, and found them all alike, behaving affable to Foreigners, and agreeable to their Birth: I don't undertake now to give you the Characters of those whom I had the Honour to be particularly acquainted with, being sensible that perhaps it would be a little too tedious: Nothing remains for me therefore but to give you some Account of the City of _Dresden_. [11] _Dresden_ is one of the finest Towns in _Germany_ for its Situation and its Structures; 'tis the Capital of _Misnia_ in _Upper Saxony_. _Charlemain_ was the first that caus'd it to be fortify'd; it has been for time out of Mind the ordinary Residence of the Dukes and Electors of _Saxony_, who have caus'd its Fortifications to be considerably augmented, and 'tis now a very strong Place: 'Tis divided by the River _Elbe_ into Two Parts, call'd _The New Town_ and _The Old Town_. In the latter stands the Prince's Palace, which was formerly a very fine Building, but only a Part of it is remaining, the rest being consum'd by Fire. That which still exists contains very fine Apartments, which the King has accommodated to the modern Taste, and they are nobly furnished; but they belong only to the King and Queen; and the Prince and Princess live in a separate Palace, which communicates therewith by Galleries: This Palace was built by the Countess of _Cosel_, who liv'd in it when she was in high Favour. The Rooms are a little of the smallest, but perfectly well dispos'd, and they are adorn'd with fine Paintings, and very richly furnish'd: Near the King's Palace there's a very fine Garden, call'd _Zuinger-Garten_, which is semi-circled in the Shape of a Horse-shoe, with magnificent Buildings that form Arches, over which there runs an open Gallery, which unites Three large Pavilions: In the middlemost there's a fine Grotto, on a Level with the Garden. The upper Story contains a very beautiful Saloon fac'd with Marble, with gilded Ornaments; the Ceiling is magnificent; the Windows instead of common Glass are embellished with very fine large Plate-Glass. The rest of the Building, which joins to this Garden, is of the same Magnificence, but yet perhaps a little too much incumber'd with carv'd Work.
Next to the Garden there is nothing finer to be seen than the King's Stables and Riding-House. Over the Stables there are very fine large Rooms, in which is kept all the Furniture for the Horses: In this Part there is also a Number of stately Buildings, which render _Old Dresden_ a very agreeable Place. The Streets are broad, most of them regular and well pav'd, and great Care is taken to keep up good Government in it.
This Quarter communicates with the new Town by a very beautiful Stone-Bridge: The first thing one meets with entring into _New Dresden_ is a House that belongs to the King, and is call'd _The Palace of_ Holland, because all the China Ware or Furniture, with which 'tis adorn'd, came from that Country: The Gardens of this House are very pleasant; and its Situation most charming by reason of the River _Elbe_, which runs just by it.
The Inhabitants of _Dresden_ are Lutherans, as well as those of the rest of _Saxony_, and the Catholics have not so much as one Church in it; for the King being not willing to infringe the Laws of the Country, is content to have one Chapel there for himself and his Family. The Elector of _Saxony_ bears the Title of _Grand Marshal of the Empire_, and is the Third in Rank among the Secular Electors.
Thus, _Madame_, have I given you what I saw most remarkable in the Electorate of _Saxony_: I own to you, I lik'd the Country very much, and the Civilities that I had the Honour to receive from the King, made me wish one while for a Place in his Service; but I made no Attempt for it, and very seriously bethought myself of my Journey to _Sicily_.
When I left _Dresden_, I took the Road to MUNICH, to which I made very great Haste, because I was so teiz'd with my old Ailment, for which _La Peronie_ had me under Cure at _Paris_, that I did not care to delay, putting myself into the Hands of a Surgeon: The Person, who undertook me, was no less a Man than the Elector's own Surgeon; who indeed gave me Ease for a few Days, but afterwards I was tormented worse than ever. However, I took the Opportunity of the easy Intervals I enjoy'd from the Surgeon's Remedies to pay my Compliments to the Princes: I accompany'd them in Hunting and other Parties of Pleasure, as if I had been in perfect Health: The Count _de Charolois_, who was still at the Court of _Bavaria_, made an Agreement with the Princes of _Bavaria_, to ride Post to _Saltzbourg_, to see an _Italian_ Opera, which the Archbishop gave there every Year to celebrate his Birth-Day: The _Bavarian_ Princes set out first, and lodged in a paltry Cabaret in the Suburbs, because they had a Mind to be _incog._ The Count _de Charolois_ set out from _Munich_ at 8 o'Clock at Night, with only one Gentleman and myself: We rode all Night, and next Day at 5 in the Evening arriv'd at SALTZBOURG: We alighted at the same Cabaret where the _Bavarian_ Princes were, and went all together to the Opera: It was begun before we came, for which I was not a little sorry, because it was a Piece that was well worth seeing from the Beginning to the End of it: I assure you, _Madame_, that I never saw any thing so extraordinary: The Theatre, the Actors, the Performance were all to the utmost Degree ridiculous! The Opera Room was so low, that the Actors almost touch'd the Ceiling with their Heads: The Singing and Dancing were something comical: What most diverted me were the Interludes, which were _executed_ by the Archbishop's Pages. They consisted of Three Entries: The first was of Shepherds, who were known by their Dress; and they had not only Crooks in their Hands, but Sheep appear'd every now-and-then upon the Scene: The second Entry was of Huntsmen, who had all Hunting Horns; and while these danc'd, some, who mov'd the Machine, made the Skins of Hares stuff'd with Straw skip up and down the Stage: The third was of Fishermen, who carry'd Lines, to which were fasten'd Trouts; others appear'd with Nets full of live Fish, which made a very odd Shew, and was certainly the only one of the Kind: I must not forget to tell you, that, during the Performance, such Complaisance was shewn to all the Spectators, that they were presented with great Silver Goblets full of Wine or Beer to refresh them: The Princes diverted themselves very much with this Piece, and 'twas a long rime before they could get the Archbishop's Opera out of their Heads: For my Part, I can scarce forbear Laughing to this Day, whenever I think on't.
Notwithstanding all that the Princes could do to be _incog._ they were known, and the Archbishop, who was inform'd of their Arrival upon the very Day, immediately sent one of his Gentlemen to invite them to Supper, desiring at the same time to be excus'd for not waiting on them in Person, which he assur'd them he should have done, if he had not been made acquainted, that they were willing to be _incog._ The _Bavarian_ Princes were ready enough to accept of the Archbishop's Supper; and for my own Part, I had so little Hopes of finding any thing that was good in that pitiful Cabaret where we were, that I should have been glad with all my Heart to have been at the Archbishop's Table. But the Count _de Charolois_ would by no means accept of the Invitation, and out of Complaisance to him, the _Bavarian_ Princes refus'd it likewise; however, they paid the Archbishop a Visit, and the Count _de Charolois_ went along with them by the Name of the Count _de Dammartin_; I had also the Honour to accompany them: The Archbishop receiv'd the Princes without any Ceremony, according to their Desire, and they stood all the time of the Visit, which was very short. The Princes return'd to the Inn, where we had a Supper, serv'd up exactly in the _Gout_ of our Opera. Mean time, we had not eaten any thing for 24 Hours; and to refresh us, the first Dish that was brought in was Lobsters and a Sallad, and the next a Leveret, which was not dress'd enough, and therefore we sent it to the Kitchen to be turn'd into a Ragou; but 'tis probable, that our Cook had not Experience enough to make Ragous; for he only put our Leveret in a large Kettle of Water, and boil'd it to a Jelly; and in this Condition it was serv'd up: This insipid Dish was follow'd by a Couple of Ducks and Four Thrushes. Notwithstanding the Scantiness of this Repast, they did not rise from Table till late at Night, and then the Princes of _Bavaria_ went to Bed, but as for the Count _de Charolois_, he would stay in the Place no longer than he had supp'd, and I had the Honour to go off with him. We return'd to _Munich_, but went by the way of _Alten-Ottingen_, in order to see the Treasure that is kept in the Vestry of the miraculous Chapel of the Virgin: This Treasure, which contain'd very fine Things, was inrich'd with Abundance of noble Presents, made by most of the Sovereigns in _Europe_. From thence we set out for _Munich_, where we arriv'd after a Ramble of Three Days and as many Nights, in which we could boast of having travell'd near 40 _German_ Leagues, to see the most scoundrel Opera that could ever be imagin'd.
The Fatigue of this Journey made my Disorder much worse: The Surgeons at _Munich_ even refus'd to take me in hand, and all my Friends advis'd me to make a Tour to _Paris_, where the most able Professors in Arts of all Sorts are more easy to be found. I was very loth to take their Advice, for 'twas high time for me to think of going to my Regiment, and I was afraid, that by a longer Delay I should suffer: At the same time I was so horribly plagued by my Distemper, that I resolv'd to go to _Paris_. But, before I set out, I wrote to the Count _de S----_, to tell him the Condition I was in, tho' I assur'd him that I would stay no longer at _Paris_ than was necessary for my Cure. Whether my Declaration was relish'd or not I can't tell; all that I know for certain is, that I receiv'd no Answer. I was sorry to leave _Munich_, and no doubt, _Madame_, you are surpriz'd to find me going for _Paris_, as it were in spite of my Will, and I assure you, that I made Reflections upon my Indifference for this City, in which I always found so many things to charm me, tho' I was fully sensible, that the Miscarriage I had in all my Undertakings was the thing that made me heartily weary of staying in it.
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This therefore was the first time that I may say I set out for _Paris_ with Regret: I went thither by the way of _Strasbourg_, and when I arriv'd I put myself again into the Hands of _la Peronie_, who in less than a Month's Time made me sound! During that Space I notify'd my Arrival to some particular Friends, who kept me Company till I was perfectly cur'd. They told me surprizing News, of which I had already been informed by several Letters; but 'twas all so improbable, I never could believe it to be true. Millions was the Word in every body's Mouth, and he that was but a Lackey one Day, was the next a Lord. 'Twas sufficient only to be seen in the famous Street of _Quinquempoix_, and unless you were quite forsaken by your Guardian Angel, you were sure of going off of the Place with immense Wealth. I was advis'd to do as others did, and to try if Fortune was still resolv'd to frown upon me: A great many Persons were nam'd to me that had actually got Millions, who came first into the Street with almost nothing in their Pockets; that was my Case exactly: But the Hopes of good Luck made me resolve to try my Fortune, as soon as I was able to stir abroad: And thither I actually went, and put myself in the Rank with those who sacrific'd to Fortune: I had the best Luck in the World at first setting out, and without knowing how or which way, found myself possess'd in a little time of a considerable Sum, such that I am even asham'd to tell you how much it amounted to, since you would absolutely pronounce me a Madman, for not knowing when I had enough; but in short I began so well, that I thought it would be cowardly to stop, and therefore I push'd on; but was quickly sensible that I had committed a gross Blunder in not drawing back; for my Millions vanish'd almost in the same manner as they came, and without knowing why or wherefore, I found my Purse empty, and was forc'd, whether I would or no, to renounce that Sort of Negociation.
While the domestic Affairs of the Kingdom were in this Fluctuation, the Army of _France_ press'd the _Spaniards_ very hard. The Campaign in _Navarre_ prov'd very successful. I have already had the Honour to acquaint you of the Taking of _Fontarabia_, which was follow'd soon after by the Conquest of _St. Sebastian_. The _Germans_ on their Part made themselves Masters of almost all _Sicily_, so that the King of _Spain_ seem'd almost reduced to a Necessity of demanding Peace, and that very soon. Cardinal _Alberoni_ was not disturb'd at the Advantages of his Enemy, and had a very great Dependence on the Uneasiness of the People of _Bretagne_, where he had a Party actually form'd, that was to declare openly against _Spain_, upon the first Motion which that Crown should make towards the Coasts of that Province. The Cardinal caus'd the Duke of _Ormond_ to sail to that Province, but 'twas to no Purpose; for the Regent had been appriz'd of all these Schemes, and so well concerted his Measures, that 'twas impossible for the Duke of _Ormond_ to undertake any thing on that Side. Nevertheless, some Malecontent _Bretons_, who were Refugees in _Spain_, assur'd me, that if the Duke had arriv'd sooner, the Blow would not have fail'd, the whole Province would have revolted, and caus'd the States General to assemble, and declare the King of _Spain_ Regent. For my Part, who knew all the Leaders of this Party full well, I did not think the Success of this Affair so very sure. Those Gentlemen were indeed Persons of a great deal of Sense, but of stronger Passions; and to say all in a few Words, they play'd at high Game, to think of surprizing the Regent! His Wisdom prevented all the Calamities which the Kingdom was threaten'd with: He sent a Sovereign Court to _Bretagne_, of which _M. de Chateauneuf_ was President, and he supported its Authority by a Body of Troops under the Command of the Marshal _de Montesquiou_. They began to make a Search after the Authors of the Rebellion, and 'twas expected that a great deal of Blood would be spilt, yet there were only a few Gentlemen, who paid for all with the Loss of their Heads. They say, that among those Gentlemen One might have escap'd, if he had thought fit; but when he was going on board, and saw the Waves very swelling, he remember'd that some body had told him, he should perish _par la Mer_, i. e. by Sea, and the Fear of Drowning made him turn back, so that he was apprehended, and had his Head cut off by a Hangman, whose Name was _la Mer_. A great Matter of Triumph this was to the Fortune-tellers!
Besides these, Warrants were issued against several other Gentlemen, but they being not afraid of the Sea, made no Scruple to expose themselves to it: Some fled to _Spain_, and some to _Hanover_, where the King of _England_ granted them an _Asylum_, without violating the Alliance made with _France_, which imported, that the Two Kings should give no Shelter in their Kingdoms to the revolted Subjects of either; for the Duchy of _Hanover_ being an Electorate, was not included in this Treaty.
'Twas well for a great many People of _Bretagne_, that Warrants were issued out against them; for most of them had but little to leave behind, and they were receiv'd in _Spain_ as Persons that had sacrific'd their All for that Crown. Most of these were made Colonels by the Cardinal, tho' he knew not whether they had ever been in the Service, while others, that had really abandoned considerable Estates, were so unfortunate as to have the least Reward.
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These were the Transactions at _Paris_ during the little time I stay'd there; for as soon as I found myself able to walk, I set out in good earnest for _Sicily_; but not being quite well enough to ride Post, I made but short Days journeys. I lay the first Night at _Melun_, and din'd the next Day at MORET, which is a Village near _Fontainebleau_, with a Convent, where they say, that the Negro Princess, of whom the Queen _Mary Theresa_ was deliver'd, is a Nun.
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From _Moret_ I went to _Sens_, and from thence to AUXERRE, which City I found in an Uproar, on account of a very tragical Adventure: A Baker having been very familiar for some time with the Wife of a Pastry-cook, was reproach'd for it by his own Wife, who even threaten'd she would make him smart for it; but the Baker, not at all terrify'd by her Menaces, proceeded in his Amour as usual; while his Wife being desperate, and raging with Jealousy to find herself depriv'd of conjugal Duty, was resolv'd her Rival should not have the Pleasure of his Company any longer; and therefore, as he was one Night in Bed with her, she took a Razor, and shav'd him so close, that it was no more in his Power to give her any Jealousy. The poor Man was in a very bad way when I happen'd to be at _Auxerre_. I had this Story from my Landlady, where I quarter'd, who told it me not without great Lamentation.
From _Auxerre_ I went to DIJON[12], the Capital of _Burgundy_, and the Seat of the Parliament and of the Governor of the Province. In this City the States of _Burgundy_ hold their Assemblies, and the Duke of _Burgundy_, who is Governor of the Province, commonly presides there in the King's Name. The Parliament of the Province was establish'd here by _Philip_ Duke of _Burgundy_, and confirm'd by _Lewis_ XI. Here is also a Chamber of Accompts, a Mint, and a Presidial Court.
'Tis a very fine Country from _Dijon_ to _Chalons_[13], all along by those excellent Vineyards which produce the choicest Wines of _Burgundy_. At _Chalons_ I found a Conveniency to go to _Lyons_: The Road is the finest that can be travell'd, for we go all the Way by the River _Saone_, which forms the most charming Vista, and with the greatest Variety of Prospects that can be imagin'd. I pass'd by _Trevoux_, the Capital of the Principality of _Dombes_, which belongs to the Duke of _Maine_, to whom it was given as a Legacy by the last Will and Testament of the late _Madamoseille_ of _France_, Daughter to the late _Gaston_ Duke of _Orleans_.
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From _Trevoux_ 'tis but a few Days Journey to LYONS: Before we come to this City, one sees upon the Right Hand of the Road that dismal Castle of _Pierre-Encise_, to which those Criminals are commonly sent, who are condemned to perpetual Imprisonment.
LYONS[14] is the Capital of the _Lyonnois_, on the Conflux of the _Rhone_ the _Saone_. 'Tis one of the finest and most magnificent Cities in _France_: Its Situation is charming, its Squares superb, and its Buildings, both sacred and profane, very noble. _St. John_'s which is the Cathedral Church, is a magnificent Structure of _Gothic_ Architecture, where, among other Remarkables, is that fine Clock, which is reckon'd a Master-piece. The Canons have the Title of _Counts of_ Lyons, and are oblig'd to produce the same Proofs of their Qualification as the Knights of _Malta_.
The Town-House is one of the most magnificent Buildings of the kind, and I know of none but the Stadthouse at _Amsterdam_ that exceeds it. The Square in which 'tis built is call'd _la Place des Terreaux_: 'Tis a very beautiful Quadrangular Structure; and there is to be seen the fine Abby of the Ladies of _St. Peter_, now in Possession of a Daughter of the _Marshal de Villeroy_.
The Square of _Bellecour_ is the finest Part of all the City; 'tis adorn'd with an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. erected upon a Pedestal of white Marble, at the Expence of the _Marshal de Villeroy_, Governor of _Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, in Acknowledgment of that Monarch's continued Favours to him and all his Family.