Part 4
As to the Apartments, they are all of the utmost Magnificence, but the only one that I shall speak of now is the Elector's. The first Room at the Entrance is very fine, considering its Extent, but not much adorn'd, being altogether bare white Walls, so that only the Ceiling is painted. As one turns to the Right, we enter an Antichamber, which is a Thorowfare both to the Elector's Apartment, and to another on the Left Hand, then occupied by the Count _de Charolois_. This Antichamber is wainscotted throughout, and leads to a Gallery, which is also completely wainscotted, the Pannels being painted white with gilt Fillets. There we saw in Compartments very fine Pictures, which represent either Hunting, or the Prospects of the Elector's several Houses. From this Gallery is an Entrance into a large Antichamber, all over wainscotted, and adorn'd with Chimney and Pier-Glasses and magnificent Pictures. From thence, turning to the Left, we enter into a large Closet, the Furniture of which is a fine Sky-blue Damask, lac'd with Gold. The Ceilings, Doors and Window-Shutters are painted white, with gilt _Basso Relievo's_. In this Closet as well as in the Chamber next to it, are a great many very fine Pier-Glasses and Marble Tables: The latter is the Bedchamber; the Furniture and Bed are of blue Damask, as is also the Closet: Out of this Chamber there's a Passage to a second Closet, furnish'd in the same Taste. These Three Pieces follow one another, and look into the Garden: The last mention'd Closet terminates the Elector's Apartment, which communicates by little Offices and a Stair-case to a small Apartment which his Electoral Highness lives in, the great Apartment being only for keeping his Court. On the other Side of the Palace are the Apartments of the Electoress and the Princes, who are all lodg'd there very commodiously.
The Gardens of this Palace are very well laid out: As one enters them by the Steps from the Castle, the first Thing one sees is a very fine _Parterre_, which reaches to a Wood, that is cut into Three great Walks, in Form of a Goose-Foot; in the midst whereof are Three Canals of Spring Water, the middlemost of which runs out of Sight, and has its Issue by Three Waterfalls, in Form of a Cascade. The Wood consists of Groves, adorn'd with Bowers, and noble Water-Works. On the Right Hand of the Garden is a Grove, which contains a Mall; and a little further is a very great Mall, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The Two Ends run to the grand Walk, and contain between them a Pavilion, built in Form of a Cross arch'd, consisting of Two Stories, and forming an Octogon Saloon in the middle with Four Windows, between which are Four Summer Houses, one of which is an Antichamber, the second a Bedchamber, the third a Closet, and the fourth a Stair-case. This House is built in the Form of a Pagod's Temple, and all the Furniture is _Indian_, which is the Reason that 'tis call'd _Pagodenbourg_. Over-against this pretty House, on the Left of the great Canal, are Bagnio's. Nothing in the World can be better contriv'd, and more charming: All the Ceilings, the _Basso Relievo's_ and other Ornaments have some Relation or other to the Use for which this House is appropriated. The Baths are of Marble, adorn'd with Statues and Vessels of very great Price.
Tho' the Elector seem'd to be mightily delighted with _Nymphenbourg_, yet he was about building another Palace, which was to be call'd _Schleisheim_: According to the Designs that I saw of it, this Palace must be much larger and more noble than _Nymphenbourg_, so that they said, that _Schleisheim_ would be the _Versailles_ of _Bavaria_, and _Nymphenbourg_ the _Marly_.
I spent my Time so agreeably while I stay'd at _Munich_, that indeed I was very loth to quit a Place so charming: Nevertheless, I set out with a Heart full of Gratitude for all the Favours I had receiv'd from the Elector, and the Princes his Children.
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I lay the first Night at _Wasserbourg_[8], and from thence went to PASSAU, which makes a Part of _Lower Bavaria_, and is a Bishoprick Suffragan of _Saltzbourg_.[9]_Passau_ is famous for the Treaty which was concluded there between the Emperor _Charles_ and _Mauric_ Elector of _Saxony_, whereby the Protestant Religion was establish'd and secur'd in _Germany_, where before it was only tolerated. This is a very pretty City, has fine Houses, and several Churches. The Cathedral, which is a quite new Structure, is very large, and in the Inside very magnificent, being adorn'd all over with Pilasters, and other Embellishments of Architecture, and the Roof painted in _Fresco_. I was at Divine Service there on _Whitsunday_, and as every body then made the best Appearance they could, I observ'd the meanest Women of the Town were dress'd in Gowns of black Velvet, and scarlet Petticoats with Gold Lace, and that some of 'em had Pearl Necklaces of Five or Six Rows; and others Gold Chains with Rings, and Ear Pendants of Diamonds.
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From _Passau_ I went down the _Danube_ to _Lintz_, the Capital of _Upper Austria_; and from thence to VIENNA[10], the Capital of _Austria_, and the ordinary Residence of the Emperors, ever since _Maximilian_. This City, which was heretofore but a Bishoprick, was lately erected into an Archbishoprick, and the Archbishop takes the Title of Prince. The Cathedral Church, which is dedicated to St. _Stephen_, is an old Building, very magnificent, but dark: The City stands upon the _Danube_, an Arm of which separates it from the Suburb, which is call'd _Leopoldstat_: The _Turks_ have made more than one vain Attempt to be Masters of _Vienna_. _Soliman_ II. besieg'd it _Sept._ 25, 1529, but on the 14th of _October_ following _Charles_ V. oblig'd him to raise the Siege. In 1693 the _Turks_ made another Attempt, and besieg'd it with an Army of above 200,000 Men, when the Emperor _Leopold_ retir'd with all his Family to the Castle of _Lintz_, and left the Command of the City to the Count _de Staremberg_: The Count was forc'd to sustain terrible Attacks from the _Turks_, who push'd on their Works with Vigor, and the Place could hold out no longer, when _John Sobieski_ King of _Poland_ advanced to relieve it, at the Head of an Army of _Poles_. He came in Sight of the Enemy on the 11th of _September_, and next Day gave them Battle, and obtain'd a complete Victory; for the _Turks_ abandon'd both their Camp and their Artillery, and the Conquerors took a prodigious Booty, particularly such a vast Number of black Cattle, that 'tis said they were sold for Five or Six Florins apiece. The Emperor no sooner receiv'd the Tidings that the Siege was rais'd, but he set out from _Lintz_ for _Vienna_, where he visited the King of _Poland_ in the open Field, and made his grateful Acknowledgments to him for the signal Service he had then done him.
_Vienna_ receiv'd a great deal of Damage at this Siege; Part of the Imperial Palace being reduc'd to Ashes, as well as several other grand Structures. The Emperor immediately set about repairing those Losses, and the Palace was rebuilt as it was before; and several of the Nobility also caus'd such magnificent Palaces to be erected, that in a short time the Town recover'd its former Splendor.
The Imperial Palace is large, but has nothing else scarce to boast of, for the Apartments are low, dark, and without Ornaments, and the Furniture is very ancient, tho' scarce any Princes have a finer Treasure in Tapistry; and why 'tis not us'd, I can't imagine: The Apartments of the Empress Dowager were the only ones fit to lodge in; for that Princess took Care to have them not only rais'd higher, but inlaid and wainscotted, which has given them a certain Air of Majesty they had not before. This Princess's Apartment is hung with black Velvet, it being the Custom of the Imperial Court, for the Empress Dowagers never to quit their Mourning. The Bedchamber and the Closet call'd _la Retirade_ or the Withdrawing-Room, are the only Two Pieces that are not hung with black, the whole Furniture thereof being grey. For the rest, were a Stranger to see the Palace of _Vienna_, and to have no Notion of what it is before-hand, he would scarce imagine it to be the Residence of the first Prince of _Europe_.
The Palace of _la Favorita_ in the Suburb of _Vienna_, where the Emperor spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. 'Tis a very large House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside. There's an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case, all of Timber, that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there's an Entrance into other Apartments but half furnish'd, and very low, which in short is the Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call'd a fine Prospect.
Mean time the Court Nobility are far from being so ill lodg'd as the Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs. Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_'s Palace is the most magnificent Building that one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it, the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all wainscotted, and adorn'd with large Pictures, representing the chief Battles won by Prince _Eugene_. From this Hall we enter into a large Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famous _Devos_ of _Brussels_, where that skilful Artist has represented the principal Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll'd up in Pilasters of green Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish'd in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings, Looking-Glasses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andirons being of most curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine Lustres, of which that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry, they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as noble.
After having taken a full View of the Prince's Apartments, I was shew'd the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any in _Europe_. The Books are rang'd in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments.
The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb of _Vienna_, which has a Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water, with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or rather the Castle, for 'tis a great and stately Building: They were still at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it. There's a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House, takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all lin'd with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn'd with fine Paintings: From this Saloon there's a Passage to a Room on the Left, the Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another large Closet at the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables and Coach-houses: 'Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has since built a Convent. The Prince was advis'd to it at that very Time, but he refus'd, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus'd to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot stir one Step at Home, without being overlook'd by the Nuns.
On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. The _Prat_, for Instance, is a Place mightily frequented; 'tis a Wood in an Island, form'd by the _Danube_, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine Weather, that it may well enough be call'd, _The_ Boulogne _Grove of_ Vienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call'd _The Emperor's Garden_: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but the _Turks_ having burnt it the last time they besieg'd _Vienna_, there is nothing of it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground, and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms of Insects the _Danube_ brings hither at certain Times of the Year, so that People who come hither to walk, are forc'd to desert it: When they can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usually repair hither in the Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut out noble Walks: This, _Madame_, is all that is most remarkable in _Vienna_ and its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to give you an Idea of this Court.
The Court of _Vienna_ is, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same time the most magnificent in _Europe_: To explain this seeming Paradox, I must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor's Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and Petty Officers, the many rich Noblemen that spend high, and the several Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be confess'd, that there is not a Court in _Europe_ so splendid as that of _Vienna_. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to incumber themselves with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages, _&c._ one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as soon as these Holidays, which are call'd _Gala_, are expir'd, they all resume their former Plainness.
After having given you this general Idea of the Court of _Vienna_, I will acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as the Emperor is risen, he is dress'd; then he reads some Dispatches, and sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or assists in Council. He afterwards goes to Mass, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church, according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is accompany'd by the Nuncio and the Ambassadors, upon which Occasion the Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is follow'd by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm'd with Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress's Ladies: The Cavalcade is clos'd by a Company of the Garison at _Vienna_, which is maintain'd at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor's Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards.
After Mass is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Ambassadors are covered, as is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archduchesses, each led by the Steward of their Houshold.
When the Emperor is return'd to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber call'd _la Retirade_, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till Dinner-time, which, when 'tis serv'd up, the great Chamberlain goes and acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress, attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv'd with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion'd, and all the Dishes were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio and Ambassadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another's Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor's Orders, and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure, and then every body retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms, tho' they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark.
When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter'd down in a List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they that receive them are introduc'd by the Chamberlain in waiting. The Emperor stands up and is cover'd, leaning with his Back against a Table, with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver'd to him, he desires an Explanation. When the Person has made an End of speaking, he bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ'd in the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing of what is said, while her Majesty's great Steward stays at the Door in the Antichamber.
A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court of _Vienna_, in the Article of Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim'd a Right to. The Hundred _Swiss_ and the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy Success to the Audience that has been obtain'd, merely for what they can get.
As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call'd, _The Looking-Glass Room_, because 'tis the only one in her Apartment where there are such Glasses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, the great Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table, without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as 'tis in _France_, where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the Duchesses; for at _Vienna_ those who are call'd Duchesses by way of Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality.
There's another Custom at _Vienna_, very different from the Practice at other Courts of _Europe_: Here are no Days fix'd for Drawing-Rooms or Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed.