Part 3

_Augsbourg_ had a very great Share in the Civil Wars between our Ancestors, on account of Religion. During that Period, the Protestants seiz'd the City, and turn'd out the Bishop and Clergy; but _Charles_ V. having retaken it, re-establish'd the _Romish_ Religion in it, and alter'd the whole Government, which continued in that State till the Beginning of _April_ 1552, when the Protestants took it again, and restor'd what the Emperor had destroy'd; and at length a Peace was concluded at _Augsbourg_; but the City did not long enjoy the Sweets of it, and Violences were soon committed on both Sides. The famous _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, came to the Aid of the Protestants. He arriv'd at _Augsbourg_ in 1632. The Inhabitants paid him extraordinary Honours, which was very provoking to the Catholic Princes, and to the Duke of _Bavaria_, who Two Years after punish'd them for it. This Prince having declared himself the Protector of the ancient Religion, besieg'd _Augsbourg_, and reduc'd the Citizens to such Extremity, that they eat Rats, Cats, and even human Flesh. It was settled at the Peace of _Westphalia_, that the Catholics and Lutherans should tolerate one another, which was afterwards punctually observ'd. Nevertheless, this City was again molested by the Elector of _Bavaria_ in the last War, when he made himself Master of it, but his Troops abandon'd it immediately after the Battle of _Hochstet_. After the Peace of _Westphalia_, the Emperor _Leopold_ summon'd the Dyet of the Empire to _Augsbourg_ in 1690, and there he caus'd himself to be crown'd, and his Son _Joseph_ to be elected King of the _Romans_.

The assembling of the Dyets, and the flourishing Trade at _Augsbourg_, have render'd it one of the most magnificent Cities in _Germany_. Its Squares are large, its Streets spacious, and its Fountains very beautiful. The Town-House is one of the finest Buildings that I have seen. 'Tis a vast square Edifice, well built of Free-Stone. The Porch is all of Marble. Almost all the Rooms are wainscotted and ceil'd with very fine Timber. There's a Hall 110 Feet long, 58 broad, and 52 Feet in Height, the Pavement of which is Marble, and its Walls adorn'd with Paintings, intermix'd with Emblems and Devices relating to the Government. The Ceiling, which exceeds all the rest for its Beauty, has Compartments, the Squares and Pannels whereof are inrich'd with Sculptures, very finely gilt, and full of beautiful Pictures and other Ornaments. The Cathedral is large and spacious, with a most remarkable great Gate, all of Brass, over which there are several Scripture Passages, represented in _Basso-Relievo_ of very nice Workmanship. The Episcopal Palace has nothing extraordinary. The present Bishop is of the Family of _Newbourg_, and Brother to the Elector of _Triers_, and the Elector Palatine. The Dignity of Prince of the Empire is annex'd to that of Bishop of _Augsbourg_, in the same manner as it is to all the Bishopricks of _Germany_. He is chose by the Chapter, which is compos'd of Canons, who are noble by Sixteen Descents. The Bishop's Sovereignty extends over almost all the Territory of _Augsbourg_.

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I am now going to give you an Account of one of the most splendid Courts in all _Germany_, I mean that of _Bavaria_, which I had the Honour to see at MUNICH, whither I went at my Departure from _Augsbourg_.[5]_Munich_, which is the Capital of _Bavaria_, stands upon the River _Iser_, that falls into the _Danube_, for which Reason the Neighbourhood is almost all Meadow Land. The Town is not large, but very well built, so that I have scarce seen any that makes so gay an Appearance. _Munich_ contains several stately Buildings, both sacred and profane. Among the former, the Two finest, that I took Notice of, are, our Lady's Church, and that of the Jesuits.

In our Lady's Church there's a magnificent Tomb of the Emperor _Lewis_ IV. adorn'd with Figures of Marble and Brass. There's one Thing remarkable in this Church, and that is, at the Entrance of the great Gate there's a particular Place, from whence, as one stands, we observe such a Regularity in the Disposition of the Pillars which support the Roof, that there is not a Window to be perceiv'd in it, tho' there are a great many.

The Jesuits Church is also extremely magnificent. It consists intirely of one Nave, very lofty and spacious, the Roof of which is very noble, and adorn'd all over with Sculpture. The Vestry contains a great deal of Wealth in Relics, and in Vessels of Gold and Silver.

Their College is as magnificent as their Church, there can be nothing finer; and I could not help thinking the Outside of it exceeded the Electoral Palace. In the Inside there are great Rooms, which serve as Classes for the Scholars that come to study with them.

The Elector's Palace deserves a diligent View, for it may compare with the Palaces of the most powerful Sovereigns; and I think that, excepting the Palace of the _Tuileries_, there's none so big. Yet for all this it has one Defect, common to the Palaces of all Sovereigns, it having been built at several Times, and being by Consequence irregular. The first Time I saw it, I own to you that I was disgusted at this Irregularity; and that it fell vastly short of the Idea I had conceiv'd of the Building from what I had read of it in the Relations publish'd by Travellers.

Of all the Parts of the Electoral Palace, there's not one that is more magnificent than that which is commonly call'd the _Emperor's Apartment_: The principal Room in it is a Hall, which is 118 Feet long, and 52 broad, and may be reckon'd a complete Piece of Work; 'tis adorn'd with fine Paintings, representing sacred and profane History, which are rang'd in exact Order, one over-against the other; and under each of the historical Passages there are _Latin_ Verses explaining the Subject: The Chimney-piece is as magnificent as the rest of the Apartment; on the Top of it there's the Statue of _Porphyry_, of admirable Workmanship, representing _Virtue_, holding a Spear in her Right Hand, and a Branch of gilt Palm in her Left. The Ceiling is adorn'd with gilt Compartments, and with Paintings of a noble Design.

Going out of the great Hall, we pass thro' a very spacious Antichamber into the Hall of Audience, which is very much ornamented, as is all the rest. 'Tis there that the Electors give Audience to the foreign Ministers, and there are Eight great Compartments, shewing the different manners after which the foreign Princes give Audience to Ambassadors. There are other Pictures representing the Histories of several Judgments pass'd by Sovereigns, that have administer'd Justice in Person; and these Pictures are accompany'd with Hieroglyphics, Emblems and Devices suitable to the Subject.

The long Gallery is very magnificent, both for its Extent and for the Pieces it contains. 'Tis adorn'd with _Basso Relievo's_ of a noble Design, and with costly Pictures, among which are the Effigies and Names of 36 Princes, the Predecessors of the present Elector. There are also very fine Maps of the several Provinces, Cities and Appendages of his Electoral Highness's Dominions. There's another Gallery not quite so big indeed, but as finely adorn'd, and especially with very large Pictures, which represent the Histories of the Princes and Princesses of the Family of _Bavaria_. The Stair-case which leads to the grand Apartment I just now mention'd, is answerable to all the rest in Magnificence, there being nothing to be seen all about it but marble and Gold.

The Apartment which the Elector commonly resides in is very spacious, but irregular. I thought the Chambers and Closets a little too dark. The whole is adorn'd with rich Ceilings and magnificent Tapestries. The Electoress's Apartment communicates with the Elector's by a private Gallery. All the Princes and Princesses are equally well lodg'd, tho' the Chambers of the Apartments are a little too small.

The great Chapel is very fine, and would be much more so, if it was more lightsome. The Electoress has one, which joins to her Apartment, but is not near so large as the former, and has the same Fault; tho' otherwise 'tis a notable Piece of Building, and contains extraordinary Wealth.

The Garden of the Electoral Palace is not of the modern Taste. Round the one half of it there's a grand Piazza, adorn'd with Pictures, representing the several Histories of the Princes of the _Bavarian_ Family, which Pictures, I am told, were the Model for the Hangings in the Elector's Wardrobe. At the End of this Piazza there's a very fine House, the lower Parts of which serve as a Greenhouse for the Orange Trees. In the upper Part there are very commodious Apartments; where, in the Summertime, the Elector has a Drawing-Room. Near this Orangery there's a Sort of Menagery, in which are kept Lyons and other wild Beasts.

The same Piazza leads also to the Riding-House, which is one of the finest I ever saw. 'Tis 366 Feet in Length, and 76 in Breadth. It has 80 great Windows, and all round within there runs a fine Corridor or Gallery to hold the Spectators, when there are any Carrousels or Tournaments. This Corridor is parted by the Elector's Box, which is big enough to contain all the Electoral Family, and adorn'd with very rich Sculptures. The Gallery of the Palace, which reaches to the grand Piazza of the Garden, leads also to the Opera Room, which is very large, and very high. The Stage is answerable to the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Room, and the Decorations are superb, and very numerous. As the Electoral Prince is very fond of Music, he prefers the Opera to any other Performance, and gives Orders himself for what may serve to render it most splendid. You will judge that no Cost is spar'd, the Decorations, Machines, Habits and every Thing being equally noble, and well contriv'd.

Upon the Days that any Feast is celebrated at Court, as Birth-days and the like, when there's an Opera, at the Overture there descends from the Top of the Stage a Lustre of extraordinary Grandeur and Structure, which rises up again immediately after the first Act; a Custom, for which I never could yet hear of any good Reason. This Lustre surprizes the more, because it comes unexpected. The Ceiling opens to let it down, as well as to take it up again.

'Tis said, that when the Great _Gustavus Adolphus_, King of _Sweden_, made his victorious Entry at _Munich_, one of that great Monarch's Generals advis'd him to burn the Palace of the Electors, but he refus'd to do it, in which he was Greater than the Great _Alexander_, who reduc'd the superb Palace of _Darius_ to a Heap of Ashes. The only Thing that made the _Swedish_ Monarch uneasy was, that he could not carry to _Sweden_ the fine Chimney-piece in the great Hall, that I mention'd to you.

I will next treat of the Princes that compose the August Family of _Bavaria_, which is one of the most Illustrious in _Europe_. The Elector's Name was _Maximilian Emanuel Mary_: No Man could have a grander Air, or a better Shape than this Prince had; and with those external Qualities, he had others, without which the former are of little or no Value. He was generous, affable, compassionate, and in Consequence ador'd by his Subjects: He knew how to support his Dignity with Grandeur: His Expence was great, but well-judg'd: He marry'd to his first Wife the Archduchess, Daughter of the Emperor _Leopold_, by whom he had a Son, who was snatch'd from him by Death, when the young Prince was become Heir to one of the chief Crowns in the World, after the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, by Right of Succession from his Grandmother, who was the Daughter of _Philip_ IV.

After the Death of the Electoress, the Elector marry'd a Princess of _Poland_, _viz. Theresa Cunegonda Sobieski_, Daughter to King _John Sobieski_. This Princess lives so retir'd, that, excepting her own Family, she sees no body but Two or Three Ladies and her Confessor. She resides most commonly at _Taco_, a Seat given her by the Elector. When the Princess is at _Munich_, she employs herself in Works of Charity, one while visiting sick Women, at other Times the several Convents; and in these Visits she never fails to leave Marks of her Bounty.

The Elector has had several Children by her: The First is the Electoral Prince, whose Name is _Albert Cajetan_: This Prince gave Proof in the War in _Hungary_, and at the Siege of _Belgrade_, that he would be the Heir of the great Qualities of the Elector his Father, as well as of his Dominions: He acquir'd a high Reputation at _Vienna_, and every body was charm'd with the grand Presence and Talents of this Prince, whose Deportment to all that came to him could not be exceeded for Civility. He talk'd _Latin_, _French_ and _Italian_ with as much Ease as his native Language.

The Duke _Ferdinand_ is the Elector's Second Son, tho' he was first marry'd to a Princess of _Neubourg_, a Niece of the Elector Palatine. This Duke is the handsomest of the Elector's Sons; he is perfectly well-shap'd, and has the finest Head of Hair that can be seen; in short, he is a very amiable Prince: He loves Pleasure, but is not a Slave to it; his favourite Sport is Hunting, which he follows commonly with the Princes his Brothers.

Duke _Clement_ is the Elector's Third Son, and he who has hitherto been Fortune's greatest Favourite. When I went to _Munich_, this Prince had been newly elected Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, in the Room of the Duke his Brother, who dy'd at _Rome_ a little after his Election to the Bishoprick. Duke _Clement_ was already Bishop of _Ratisbon_, when he was chose Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_; but he resign'd _Ratisbon_ to Duke _Theodore_, the last of the _Bavarian_ Princes. These Four Princes, and a Princess, who turn'd Nun at the Time that I was at _Munich_, are the Elector's whole Family, and the only Princes of the House of _Bavaria_.

You know, _Madame_, that the Electoral Dignity pass'd to this Family after the Disgrace of _Frederic_ Elector Palatine, King of _Bohemia_, who having been put under the Ban of the Empire, was turn'd out of the _Upper Palatinate_, which was given to the _Bavarian_ Family, as a Reward for the Attachment they had shewn to the House of _Austria_, and for the Expences they were at in the War. At the Treaty of _Westphalia_ this Grant was confirm'd to the _Bavarian_ Family, and the Son of the unfortunate _Frederic_ recover'd his Dignity of Elector, with this Difference, that whereas before he was the first Elector, he was now become the last. The Dukes of _Bavaria_ remain'd in Possession of the _Upper Palatinate_, and of the Dignity of first Elector. There's none of 'em all that came up to the Elector _Maximilian Emanuel_, and never was the Court of _Munich_ so splendid and numerous, as in his Time: The Ceremonial observ'd there is very much the same with that of the Imperial Court.

As to the Amusements of the Court of _Bavaria_, they pass'd their Time much after this manner: The Elector, who was an early Riser, went to Mass about 10 o'Clock, and afterwards held a Council, if it happen'd to be Council-Day, or otherwise his Electoral Highness play'd at Passage till Dinner-time. Then he return'd to his own Apartment, where he din'd privately, and during that Time, no body was admitted, except the Princes, the Officers in Waiting, and the Chamberlains. The Princes also din'd by themselves, tho' they often admitted Gentlemen to eat with them. The Electoress, the Princess and the Duchess had also their separate Tables serv'd by the Elector's Officers, which occasion'd an amazing Expence, as did also the Hunting Equipages; for the Elector went one Way, the Electoral Prince another, and Duke _Ferdinand_ another, so that there were near 400 Horses running here and there every Day. When they return'd from the Chace, the Princes went and pass'd the Evening with the Duchess, where they found a great Assembly of Ladies; the Elector also went thither sometimes, and play'd at Pharao, or some other Game. Towards Supper-time he retired to his Apartment, where he supp'd with the Ladies. The Princes went and supp'd with the Electoral Prince, and the Duchess supp'd at her own House with the Gentlemen and Ladies.

On the Drawing-Room Days (which were Three Times a Week) Things were order'd otherwise. The Ladies went to the Electoress's Apartment, or to the Orangery, according to the Place where the Drawing-Room was appointed. When it was kept at the Electoress's Apartment, the Ladies went thither in the Court Dress, whereas at the Orangery they might appear in a Mantua. The Elector and the Princes were also there: His Electoral Highness convers'd awhile with the Ladies; after which they sat down to Play, and every one chose what Game or Partner they lik'd best. When the Play was over, the Company went into another Room, where there was a great Table well serv'd, at which, after the Elector, the Princes and the Ladies had taken their Places, if there was Room, they admitted Gentlemen to sit down with them, either Foreigners, or even such as were in the Elector's Service. At this Table no Rank was observ'd, and the very Princes sat down where they could get Places.

When the Court was at _Nymphenbourg_, the Elector's Pleasure-house, the Diversions were much the same as at the Orangery, except that they took the Air more; and that the Ladies might enjoy this Pleasure to greater Perfection, there was always a Number of Calashes, each drawn by a Pair of Horses, which carry'd Two Ladies, and was drove by some Gentleman, while One or Two others stood behind them. Those who prefer'd taking the Air by Water, might easily be accommodated, there being for that Purpose upon the Canal Gondolas and Gondoliers after the _Venetian_ manner, which were always ready for Hire.

On _Sundays_, Holidays and Days of Rejoicing, the Elector din'd in public, with the Princes and Princesses of his Family, during which the Chamberlains waited, and at Night there was a Concert. The Ladies in their Court Dress met in the Apartment of the Electoress or the Duchess, and accompany'd those Princesses to the Opera, after which they return'd to the same Apartment; where, till Supper-time, they play'd; upon those Days the Ladies din'd with the Elector: Sometimes too, they carry'd Services for Three or Four Persons, and laid them upon the Gaming Tables, which was very convenient for those who were not willing to separate Company: After Supper there was commonly a Ball.

During the Summer, the Elector never fail'd to repair every _Thursday_ Evening to the Orangery, to hold a Drawing-Room, after which he went and lay at _Nymphenbourg_, from whence he return'd upon _Saturdays_, to hold Councils on _Sundays_ in the Morning; and in the Afternoon he went to some Pleasure-house.

This, which was the common Life at Court, was very often diversify'd, by Parties for Hunting, Fishing, or other Pleasures. The Elector himself gave Direction for all the Feasts he made, and I believe it would have been difficult to have found any body that understood the Matter so well; every Thing being conducted with such charming Delicacy and Regularity, that I own to you, _Madame_, I thought myself in some enchanted Island. What contributed to render the Court of _Munich_ yet more splendid, was, the Presence of the Count _de Charolois_, a Prince of the Blood of _France_, who made some Stay here at his Return from the War in _Hungary_[6]. That young Prince being spurr'd on by Glory, thought he could not better signalize his Valour, than by bearing Arms against the Infidels, with whom the Emperor had just declared War; but as he plainly foresaw, it would be difficult for him to obtain Leave from his Mother and the Regent to go out of the Kingdom, he resolv'd to get away without speaking a Word of it to any body but Two Persons that he carry'd along with him. The Day that he put this Project in Execution, he set out early in the Morning, on Pretence of going a Hunting. He travell'd Seven Post Stages without Baiting, with the Horses of the Duke his Brother, and he was got as far as the _Austrian Netherlands_, when they thought at _Chantilly_ he was but in the Forest. He went to _Liege_, and from thence to _Bon_, but always with an Equipage that did not denote his Quality. From _Bon_ he proceeded thro' _Munich_ to _Vienna_; from whence without visiting either the Emperor or Empress he repair'd to _Belgrade_, which was then besieg'd by Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_. He distinguish'd himself greatly in this Campaign, and gave Demonstration that he was worthy of his Illustrious Blood. After the Reduction of _Belgrade_, he went to _Vienna_, where he stay'd some time, and then travell'd to _Italy_, from whence he return'd to _Munich_. The Elector, who had been perfectly well receiv'd by the Duchess, who was the young Count's Mother, took a Pleasure to shew his Gratitude to the Prince her Son. He therefore lodg'd him at the Castle, and defray'd his and his Attendants Charges all the Time that he stay'd at _Munich_; he provided a Table for him in his Apartment for Twelve People; and when he din'd with the Elector, which he never did but with Ladies in Company; and when they were to go out a Hunting, his Gentlemen had a Table allow'd them, which was spread for Eight; but some Difficulties in the Point of Rank prevented the Count from dining in public with the Elector and the Princes. His Electoral Highness gave him a certain Number of Officers, Pages and Footmen to wait on him, and Care was taken to chuse such only to attend him as talk'd _French_; but he soon acquainted himself with the _German_ Language to such a Degree, that the Country-People understood him better than they did me. Of this I had Experience one Day as I went a Hunting with him, when he bad me ask something of a Peasant, who I saw by his Looks did not know what I meant; but the Count accosted him with the same Demand, and the Peasant understood him immediately, by reason of the _Bavarian_ Accent, in which that Prince express'd himself happily: He return'd to _Chantilly_ the 1st of _May_ 1720.

Three Quarters of a League from _Munich_ is the stately Palace of NYMPHENBOURG[7], to which I have had the Honour to acquaint you the Court repaired very often. 'Tis impossible for a Place to be more charming; the Gardens especially are very beautiful: A grand Avenue leads to _Nymphenbourg_, which runs from _Munich_ to the Iron Gates of the Palace. In the Front of this Palace, next to the Court, there are Three Pavilions, which are connected by Two Apartments for Lodgings. The middlemost Pavilion, which is larger than the other Two, is square, and contains a great Hall, finely adorn'd with Architecture, and an Apartment on each Side. The Two Side Pavilions are terminated by Two large Pavilions, that run further out, and form Two Wings. On the Side next to the Court there are Steps, by which there is an Ascent up to the Hall; and on the opposite Side there are others, which lead down to the Garden. From the Steps on the Court-side is a Prospect of a large Canal, lin'd on each Side with a Row of Elms, which is separated from the Court by a Grate.