Part 22
I went down the Hill _Ratschin_ to go farther into the City: And on the Descent of it I saw at the Right Hand the Palace of _Kinski_, which belongs to the Great Chancellor of _Bohemia_; and at the Left Hand the Palace of the Count _de Collobradt_, surnam'd the _Bulky_, and very justly so, for I don't think he has his Fellow in the World; and yet it may be expected, that he will be bigger still, for he is as yet but 24 Years old. These Two Houses are very beautiful, but yet they are somewhat eclipsed by the Palaces of _Colloredo_, _Wallenstein_, and the Count _Francis-Charles de Collobradt_: The Palace of this latter excells the others in Contrivance and Magnificence, and is adorn'd throughout with very fine Gildings and Paintings, done by the best Masters: The Apartments are richly furnish'd, and neither Gold has been spar'd, nor Pier-Glasses, of which there's a great Number, and yet not so many as to confound the Sight: To this House belongs a very fine Garden, which is kept in good Order, and at the End of it is a Hill, the Declivity whereof is soften'd by several Terraces cut out on it, which form very pleasant Walks, especially when 'tis consider'd, that all this is in the middle of a City.
I went afterwards to see the _Old Town_, to which one must pass over a noble Stone-Bridge, and the only one at _Prague_: The Piles of this Bridge are adorn'd with the Statues of several Saints; and some that compose noble Groupes: Among these Statues is that of _St. John Nepomucene_, at the Foot of which are People always at Prayers. On the same Side, but nearer the old City, is a great Crucifix of Copper gilt, which the _Jews_ were compell'd to set up in this Place, as a Punishment for some Crimes they had committed.
At the End of the Bridge stands the Gate of the _Old Town_: The first thing one observes there, is the Great Convent and College of the Jesuits: 'Tis a prodigious Building, and worthy of a Society so considerable: Beyond that I saw a magnificent Palace, which they told me belongs to the Count _de Gallasch_, Son to the Count of the same Name, who died Viceroy of _Naples_: 'Tis one of the finest Buildings in _Prague_, setting aside its Situation, which is not the best: There are many other Palaces and magnificent Houses, the particular Description of which might be tedious: All that I shall say to you of this Part of the Town, is, that the Streets are very narrow, and withal darksome: The _New Town_ is by far superior; the Streets are spacious and beautiful, and the whole Quarter is much better built than the other Two.
The City of _Prague_ and the Kingdom of _Bohemia_ in general have formerly been subject to great Revolutions: The _Hussites_ committed sad Disorders there, and had like to have ruin'd the whole Country by their Cabals; so that there was a Necessity of drawing the Sword against them, and when they were totally extirpated, the Protestants of _Luther_'s Communion became so powerful there, that they presum'd, under Pretence of Religion, to revolt from the Emperor _Ferdinand_ their Sovereign: They ran tumultuously to the Castle, and having made themselves Masters of it, they threw the Emperor's Commissioners, who then held their Assembly there, out of the Windows of the Hall: Those on the Spot were the Barons _de Slavata_ and _de Martinitz_; and the Secretary _Fabricius_ had the same Fate; but happily for all Three, there was not one of them wounded: After this _Coup d'Eclat_ the Rebels rais'd Troops, solemnly protested against the Election of _Ferdinand_ II. to the Empire, and offer'd the Crown of _Bohemia_ to _Frederic_ V. Elector and Count Palatine of the _Rhine_: This Prince could not easily determine himself to receive a Crown, which he could not so soon expect to possess in Quiet; but his Wife, who was the Daughter of _James_ I. King of _England_, did not amuse herself with any such Reflections and probably upon the Principle, _That to reign is glorious, tho' it were only for a Moment_: This Princess so wrought upon the Elector, that the said Prince, for Want of knowing his own Interest better, consented at length to put himself at the Head of the Rebels, who had the Assurance to crown him with Solemnity in the Metropolitan Church of _Prague_: The Emperor, justly provok'd at the Behaviour of his Subject, sent Troops to reduce them to Reason: _Frederic_, on his Part, put himself at the Head of a considerable Army; but 'twas impossible for him to stand before the Emperor's Troops; which being commanded by the famous _Tilly_, beat him to such a Degree, that he thought himself very happy, that he could retire with the Queen his Wife, and abandon the Throne to his lawful Sovereign: This Rebellion involv'd _Germany_ in that unhappy War call'd, _The War of Thirty Years_; because in Fact it lasted so long, till a Period was put to it by the Peace of _Westphalia_.
During the Course of this War _Bohemia_ had frequent Cause to repent that it ever was the Occasion of it: The City of _Prague_, and in particular the _Little Town_, was almost intirely plunder'd and burnt in 1648 by the _Swedes_, who were introduced into it by one _Ottowalsky_, then a Captain of Horse in the Service of the Emperor _Ferdinand_ III. This Officer having conceiv'd a Disgust at something, made a Trip to _Koningsmark_ the _Swedish_ General, and offer'd to introduce him to _Prague_, if he would follow him with his Army: For this Purpose he told him, that the Citizens were intirely secure against any Apprehension of an Attack from the _Swedes_; and that they were fully persuaded, they would never venture to make the least Attempt, considering the Handful of Soldiers which their Army consisted of. _Koningsmark_ relish'd _Ottowalsky_'s Project, and on the Day fix'd he follow'd him with his little Army, which did not amount to above 3000 Men: He found every thing true that his Guide had told him, and in the Night-time enter'd the Place by a Bridge, that serv'd to carry over the Materials employ'd in the new Fortifications: _Koningsmark_ push'd on directly to the Castle, which he enter'd with the same Ease as he had enter'd the Town: But by good Luck the Emperor happen'd at that time to be gone from thence for awhile to _Lintz_: The _Swedes_ plunder'd the Castle and the City for Three Days successively; and they took so considerable a Booty, that _Colloredo_, who commanded in the Place, lost to his own Share about 1200,000 Crowns: While the _Swedes_ were busy in plundering that call'd the _Little Town_, the Alarm spread over the River to the _Old Town_, where the Burghers and Garison ran to their Arms, and by that means preserv'd their Quarter from the Fate which threaten'd them: Mean time the _Swedes_ made extraordinary Efforts to get over to them, and 'tis even said, that they would probably have succeeded, had it not been for the Jesuits, who perceiving that the Garison and Burghers were in Danger of being overpower'd, arm'd their Scholars, and sent them out to their Assistance.
The City of _Prague_ is now secure from such Insults, having good Walls and excellent Ramparts, well furnish'd with Cannon: The Castle is likewise very well fortify'd: A Citadel has been also built for the Defence of the _New Town_, and as none but Catholics are suffer'd to live there, the Protestants, who are absolutely excluded out of it, would find it a difficult Task to foment another Rebellion there.
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After I had spent some time at _Prague_, and found that the Ceremony of their Majesties Coronation would not be perform'd so soon as expected, I resolv'd to be gone: Having already laid out a good deal of Money at _Prague_, I reflected with myself, that if I stay'd there any longer, it might be out of my Power to answer all my Schemes: For you must know, _Madame_, that I set out from _Berlin_ with a considerable Sum of Money, and with a Design, while I was so well able, to pay off all my Creditors: I began with those in _Holland_, and for this Purpose went to the HAGUE about the latter End of _August_, and stay'd there till _February_: The first Visit I paid was to my dear _Madame Pyll_, who had been so generous a Friend to me, that I could not avoid paying her off first: I then made several small Payments up and down, by which means the Debts I had contracted in this Country were quickly discharg'd; and being still pretty strong in Cash, I pass'd my Time at the _Hague_ as well as I could have done at the most splendid Court; My Debts in this Country being now clear'd, and the Ease with which I had satisfy'd other Debts that were standing out farther off, gave me that Tranquillity of Mind which I had not enjoy'd for a long time; and tho' I had yet no fix'd Establishment, I thought what a great Happiness it was for a Man to be even with the World.
My Brother came to me at the _Hague_, from whence we set out together for _Zell_, where I stay'd till the Return of the fine Weather, and then resolv'd to go a second time to CARELSBADT, not so much for the Sake of the Waters as to see the Company there, which is always numerous, and of the best Sort, when one goes earlier thither than I did the first time: There was a prodigious Concourse there this bout, and all Persons of the greatest Distinction: I had the Honour there of paying my Compliments to the Elector of _Triers_, and the Margravine of _Anspach_, who came thither for the Waters.
From _Carelsbadt_ I cross'd the _Rhine_, to that Side of it where I had been offer'd a Settlement; but, upon mature Consideration, I resolv'd to preserve my Liberty, and lest my Philosophy should flag in the Sentiments of that Independency which it inspir'd me with, I set out immediately, for fear of being engag'd in a sort of Combat, wherein there's no gaining the Victory but by Flight.
* * * * *
I pass'd thro' BAREITH[37], where I had the Honour of paying my Respects to the Margrave and the Margravine, who receiv'd me with all the Complaisance possible: The Margrave is a tall handsome Man, and serv'd in the last Wars with very great Distinction: This Prince is fond of Pleasure and Magnificence, for which Reason his Court is one of the most numerous and splendid in _Germany_; and it has an Air of Grandeur throughout, from which all manner of Constraint is intirely banish'd: The Margravine has all the Qualities that a great Princess can possibly desire; she is one of the finest Ladies in _Germany_, is tall, perfectly handsome, and has a Presence, which at first Sight denotes her Dignity: 'Tis pity this Princess had not given a Male Heir to her Dominions; for she has yet but one Child, a Daughter, and if there are no Princes, the Prince of _Culmbach_ will be Heir of the Margrave's Dominions: The deceased King of _Prussia_ had bought the Reversion, by which he cut off the Margraves of _Culmbach_; but after his Majesty's Death those Princes entring their Protest against a Bargain that had been struck to their Prejudice, the present King has compounded the Matter with them; and by virtue of the Accommodation the Princes of _Culmbach_ are engag'd to pay a considerable Sum to the King at different Terms, one of which elaps'd at the Death of the Margrave of _Bareith_, as the other will do when the young Prince of _Anspach_ also dies, because then his Dominions revert in like manner to the Princes of _Culmbach_.
I follow'd the Margrave's Court to _Himmelscron_, which is one of his Hunting-Seats: 'Twas formerly a Convent, and since turn'd into a Castle, which is charmingly situated on a little Hill, inviron'd with Meadows, where the Margrave had a Camp of 2000 Men of his own Troops, which were all in good Condition, and they appear'd to me to be nicely disciplin'd: His Officers are all Men of Merit, and a good Mien: On the Side of the Meadow where the Camp was, is a Mall, planted with Four Rows of Elms, the finest that are to be seen: At the End of this Mall, which is one of the longest in _Europe_, is a Play-house, and about the middle of this Mall a very large Pavilion, with a Room where the Prince and Princess play'd every Night with the Nobility of their Court.
The Margrave's Table, which was always magnificently serv'd, especially at Dinner, is made in Form of a Horse-shoe: The Princess always sate in the middle, having on her Left Hand the Princess her Daughter and the young Princess of _Culmbach_, and on her Right the Ladies of her Court and the Gentlemen: The Margrave sate over-against her in the Inside of the Horse-shoe, with several Gentlemen on his Right and Left Hand: Besides the Margrave's Table, there were Two others for Sixteen Guests each in another Room, for such Gentlemen as could not be admitted to the Table of the Margrave: After the Fruit was serv'd, a great Salver was set upon the Table with a Coffee-pot and Cups, all of Silver, and every one there drank Coffee without rising from the Table.
Immediately after Dinner was over, the Margravine and the Princesses retired, but the Margrave stay'd in the Room to talk with the Courtiers: This Prince commonly stood, leaning only against a Table, and the Conversation was spirited every now-and-then by the Circulation of Bumpers: The Margrave was a good Toper, but he left every Person that attended him to his free Liberty.
About Six o'Clock, when the Princess was near upon going out, the Margrave went to the Mall where there was Play at Ombre or Picquet till Supper-time, after which they return'd to the Castle. The Prince had another very fine House just without _Bareith_, which is call'd _Brandebourg_: It stands on the Side of a great Lake, where are several Galleys, Yachts and Gondola's, which he often engages in Combats with one another; and of this he gave us a very noble Representation, from a Theatre built on the Side of the Lake, so that when the Bottom of it was laid open, the Theatre appears level with the Lake, and has a Prospect of it for half a League.
In the middle of the Lake is an Island with a Fortification, which the Margrave orders his Troops every now-and-then to attack and defend, on Purpose to refresh their Memories with the military Evolutions.
About half a League from this House is another, call'd the _Hermitage_, because no Persons can go to it, but such as are appointed; and likewise, because all the time that the Margrave stays there, the Prince, Princess and all their Retinue are dress'd like Hermits: An Avenue leads to this House, at the End of which is a large Grotto representing Mount _Parnassus_, with _Apollo_, the _Nine Muses_, and _Pegasus_, forming so many Fountains: This Mount is open on the Four Sides, and gives Passage into a Court, or rather a Square, where there are several Rows of Trees: The middle Walk leads to the Castle, the Architecture whereof is perfectly rustic, and it seems to have been built out of the very Rock: At the Entrance of it one meets with a very fine Work, adorn'd with Shell-work and several Statues representing the Rivers and Nymphs: As we go out of the Grotto we enter into a little square Garden-Plot, which is encompass'd with a rustic Building, and at the End of the Garden is the main Pavilion, with Two Wings, which communicate with another by means of a magnificent Saloon, fac'd all over with Marble: The Right Wing of the Saloon contains an Apartment consisting of several Chambers, which belongs to the Margrave, who is Father-Superior of the Hermits; and on the same Side are a Dozen Cells for as many Hermits: On the opposite Side is the same Number of Apartments for the Margravine and the Hermit-Ladies: The great Saloon serves for the Refectory, where the Hermits of both Sexes have their Meals.
The Garden is large, and kept in very good Order: At the End of it is a Cascade, that falling from the Top of a Hill, has a charming Effect: On the Sides of the Cascade are Terraces, and very commodious Slopings, furnish'd on both Sides with a Palisade of Yoke-Elms that is breast-high; and on each Side are Fir-trees, with Paths between them, each of which leads to a Pavilion, whereof every Hermit has one: These Pavilions are built and furnish'd after the manner of a Hermitage: The Hermits were oblig'd to retire thither after Dinner, in order to observe a profound Silence; but this Custom is mitigated in some measure, and they are now at Liberty to visit one another: The Superior and the Superioress commonly pay them a Visit: Towards the time of Recreation the Superioress tinkles her Bell, to which the Prioress answers by her's, and the Hermits of both Sexes tinkle their's also, as a Token that they have heard their Summons to their Superior. When they are arriv'd there, they go out together, and repair to the Place of Recreation, where they amuse themselves with all manner of Play, and at the Hour of Supper they repair to the Refectory: Sometimes the Hermit-Ladies regale the Prior with Dishes of their own preparing in the Superioress's Kitchen: The Hermits for their own Part may take the Pleasure of Hunting: You perceive, _Madame_, that 'tis pleasant Living enough in such a Solitude, and that there's nothing too severe in its Statutes. When the Court have spent their appointed Time at the _Hermitage_, they all return to _Bareith_.
After I had been thus an Eye-Witness of the free and easy Life that People lead at the Court of the Margrave, I took Leave of the Prince and Princess, with a Design to proceed in my Journey, not so much to seek an Employment, as to satisfy the Debts, which I had been oblig'd to contract at a time, when they allowed me no more out of my Estate than barely what they could not possibly take away from me: Here, _Madame_, I conclude the Account of my Rambles. How tedious soever a Narrative of so little Concern may appear to you, be so good as not to take it amiss of me, and to consider, that I wrote it only in Obedience to Orders often repeated: Some Person more self-interested might have scrupled such Obedience; nor did I want Reasons to alledge for my Excuse; only I was afraid lest such obstinate Silence on my Part should be deem'd unworthy of that profound Respect, with which I am, and ever shall be,
MADAME, _Your Most Humble_, _And Most Obedient Servant_, DE POLLNITZ.
APPENDIX.
THE PROFESSION of FAITH,
Deliver'd to His EMINENCY, the
Cardinal ---- at _Rome_.
_Translated from the_ ITALIAN.
MY LORD,
Ever since there was a Diversity of Religions in the World, the Conduct of Persons that have chang'd one for another has been liable to the Censure of those whose Communion they abandon, and given Rise to Variety of Reflections among People of that new Communion which they embrace; and a Reproach has been often cast upon Proselytes, that either Interest or Ignorance was the Cause of their Change: What the World will think of me for renouncing the Heresy of _Calvin_, and taking up with what I thought the soundest Doctrine; that is to say, for entering into the Bosom of that Church to which the Heterodoxy of my Ancestors had made me a Stranger, I know not: But be it what it will, I am ever ready to account to all Mankind for an Action, of which I revere the Remembrance; and which I am only sorry, I had not done sooner.
As to _Interest_, I don't think it can possibly be said, that it had any Share in my Conversion: For the Light that I stood in with the King of _Prussia_, the Rank I bore at his Court, either upon the Score of my Family, or for the Employments I had there, and the Wealth and Fortune of which I was Possessor; all these Advantages, compar'd with the Situation I am in at present, must convince the World, that Interest was not the Motive which engag'd me to change my Religion.
As to _Ignorance_; I should be vain indeed if I thought myself a Man of Learning, or if I aim'd at the Character: However, I will venture to say, that I am not ignorant of any of the principal Articles of the Orthodox Religion which I profess: For this I appeal to your Lordship, as you are my Bishop, in Quality of Vicar General of _Upper_ and _Lower Saxony_, with which his Holiness has dignify'd you: I intreat, that you will be pleas'd to give your Attention to the Confession of Faith which I have hereunto annex'd: Pray, my Lord, examine whether it be orthodox, since to your Judgment I intirely refer it; and if there unluckily happens to be any thing in it which is not conformable to the Sentiments of the Catholic Religion, I absolutely submit myself to your Decision; the rather, because I shall always count it an Honour to be one of your Diocesans, and ever be desirous from the Bottom of my Soul to improve by your Lordship's Instructions.
Upon reading that Passage of the Apostle to the _Ephesians_, Chap. iv. Ver. 5. _Unus Dominus, una Fides, unum Baptisma_; i. e. One Lord, one Faith, one Baptism; I enquir'd, what was the true Faith: And when I had divested myself of all Opinions which I had imbib'd from my Education, the very first Reflection that I made led me to examine into the Origin of the pretended Reformed Religion, and after what manner it began. I found, that in all Countries Interest, Ambition, Licentiousness, Revenge were the Motives that gave Rise to the Establishment of that Religion: I scrutiniz'd the Lives and Morals of the Leaders of those Sects; and discover'd, that they were generally passionate Men, inclin'd to Choler, addicted to sensual Pleasures, Men that led irregular Lives, and made no Account of their Promises. Consequently I could not persuade myself, that God would have made Choice of such Persons for reforming his Church, supposing even that it stood in need of it: I carry'd my Reflections farther; I consider'd the Disagreement between the very Pretenders to Reformation, and perceiv'd, that their Body is a Body without a Head, where every Prince, and every Sovereign makes himself Arbiter of the Articles of Faith, and assumes to himself the Authority of the Pope: Every Parson is with them a Bishop, every one explains the Holy Scripture after his own way, and in the Sense that he himself understands it; and every one adopts to himself a particular System of religious Principles and Opinions; they are Sheep without a Shepherd: In short, the Pretenders to Reformation are continually at Variance with each other; they reject and condemn one another's Doctrines, and never agree, but when they act in Opposition to the Pope, or the Catholics. Moreover, their Religion is not now, what it was at the Time of its Establishment: The _Calvinists_ were formerly unanimous in the Belief of Predestination: But now there's hardly any of them of that Opinion, except the _Swiss_ and _Dutch_: The others reject it, as to the Point of Salvation, and only allow of it with regard to the Hour of Death, and the Accidents of Life, which, according to them, are fix'd by inevitable Destiny. Heretofore also, both the _Lutherans_ and _Calvinists_ agreed universally, that Salvation was attainable in the Catholic Religion; but now they think otherwise; and for some Years past, they have thought fit to declare in their Writings, that the Catholics are damned.
I also reflected on the Number of different Sects that are sprung out of the Two Religions, and did not find one of them but what flatter'd themselves with a Conceit, that their's was the true Religion, tho' they were all of opposite Sentiments to each other: I could not imagine, how these Divisions could be the Mark of the true Church; it being impossible to conceive, that a Church under such Direction can be the true Church.
When I afterwards came to consider the Establishment and Ordination of their Ministers, I could not look upon them as such, being persuaded, as St. _Paul_ says, That Bishops are of divine Institution; and that they alone have the Power of ordaining Priests.