Part 21
Ever since this Expedition _Wurtzbourg_ has enjoy'd a profound Tranquillity; which has render'd it so rich and powerful as it is at this Day: Its Buildings both sacred and profane, as I have already had the Honour to mention to you, are very magnificent, and its Cathedral is a vast great Building, which contains immense Wealth: All the Ornaments of the Altar, the Pulpit, and the Two great Candlesticks before the Altar, are of solid Silver, as are also several Statues of our Saviour, the Holy Virgin, and some Saints as big as the Life: Besides all this Wealth there are beautiful and magnificent Hangings in the Choir, which represent some Passages of the Old Testament History: The Choir is higher than the Nave by several Steps: The High Altar consists of Four Pillars of black Marble, which form a Semicircle, and support a Cupola of Wood gilt, and very curiously wrought, which has on the Top of all a Ducal Crown: There are Chapels in the Body of the Church, where Vessels of Gold and Silver cast a Lustre on all Sides: The Bishop was building a Chapel by the Cathedral, which, when finish'd, must be very magnificent, for the Inside was to be lin'd throughout with Marble, which that Prelate had sent for from _Italy_ for the Purpose: He hasten'd it the more, _because_, said he to me upon a time, _I design to have my Bones laid there_. Perhaps this Prince was persuaded in his Mind that he had not long to live, for within a few Months he dy'd: He was succeeded by _Christopher-Francis_ of _Houtten de Stoltzenberg_, heretofore a Member of the Chapter of _Wurtzbourg_.
Besides the Cathedral there are several other fine Churches to be seen here, of which that of the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent: I afterwards went to see the Castle, which stands upon a Hill that looks over all the Town and Country: The Road that leads to it is very rough, and so incommodious for Coaches, that the late Bishop abandon'd it, and chose to dwell in a particular House in the Town, till the noble Castle which he was building was finish'd: I could not help thinking it wrong in him to leave a Structure so magnificent, and so suitable for a Sovereign, in which it may be said, that no Cost has been spar'd: 'Tis encompass'd on all Sides with Ramparts and other Works, which secure it from any Attack: The Inner Rooms of the Castle are indeed ancient, but they have lost nothing of that Air of Grandeur which denotes it to have been the Residence of a Prince: I never saw any thing look so fine as the Vaults in this Castle, which, because they can have no more Day-light than what peeps in at the Door, are illuminated by a great many Candles upon gilded Sconces: These Vaults are full of Barrels, most of which are of a monstrous Size, and they are all adorn'd with Carving, and full of Wine, of which they don't fail to let Foreigners have a Taste.
As we go from the Court of the Castle one enters the Court of the Arsenal, which is a Building of Brick and Free-Stone: The lower Rooms are perfectly well arch'd over, and contain about 160 Brass Guns, the Generality of which are 24 Pounders, and some carry from 40 to 48 Pound Ball. The Pillars that support the Arch are garnish'd as well as the Walls with all the Instruments that are necessary for Gunners, and with every thing belonging to a Train of Artillery, even to the Harness of Horses: The Bases were adorn'd with Boxes full of Musket-Balls: Underneath there are large fine Cellars stor'd with Provisions enough to maintain 6000 Men for a Year. The upper Rooms serve for the Arms, of which I was assur'd there were enough for 40,000 Men, Horse and Foot, all rang'd in such Order, that 'tis a Pleasure to see them: The hollow Spaces are full of Flints and Balls: The Court of this Arsenal, and all the Bastions of the Castle are full of Bombs and Bullets: In short, to examine this Castle well, one would take it for the Temple of _Mars_, rather than for the Palace of a Minister of Peace.
The new Castle which the Bishop was building when I went into his Capital stands in the Town itself, near the Gate that leads to _Nuremberg_: 'Twill be one of the finest in _Europe_, if the Model I have seen of it be exactly pursued: All the Foundations were already finish'd, and about a Fourth Part of the Castle carry'd up to the first Story: But tho' there was no Want of Labour, yet it requires a good deal of Time to bring to Perfection a Structure which is 360 and odd Feet in Front, and forms Five great Courts: The Bishop's Design was to make the principal Stair-case of Marble, and to line the Chapel, the Guard-Chamber, the great Rooms of the Palace, and all the Chimneys and Doors with the same: The Gardens were to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Building, and the Bishop had actually demolish'd the Ramparts, and fill'd up the Ditches; but Death stopp'd him in the midst of his Undertaking, and he has left his Successor to take care, that the Work be finish'd according to the Plan of it, which has been admir'd by those who are good Judges.
After I had seen the Two Castles, I went to visit the great Hospital, which is a very fine Establishment: This Building is compos'd of a great Pavilion in the middle of Two very large Wings: The principal Entrance is thro' the Pavilion, to which there is an Ascent by Two Steps; and on the Right and Left are Two fine Galleries in Form of Arches, which serve as Corridors to lead to the necessary Offices for maintaining the poor Pensioners of the Hospital: At the Top of the Stair-case of the Pavilion is an Entry, which leads to a couple of close Galleries, in which are the Chambers of the Pensioners, and to a large fine Room, all over carv'd, painted and gilt: On the Left Hand are Two great Closets, in which the Bishops retire during the Holy Week. The second Story is like the first; there's a Room like to that I have been speaking of, wherein the Bishop, assisted by his Chapter, washes the Feet of the Poor upon _Holy-Thursday_, and afterwards regales, and serves them at Table, accompany'd by the Canons of his Chapter, who, when all is over, dine with him in the Room below Stairs: Behind this Hospital is a very fine Garden, adorn'd with Fountains, Grotto's, and a fine Orangery, kept in very good Order; which is for the Pensioners to walk in when they please: The late Bishop, who was in every thing magnificent, design'd to enlarge this Building with Four Pavilions, like to that subsisting, which would have form'd a fine Court in the middle: There are other Hospitals also at _Wurtzbourg_ to the Number of 15 or 16, all so well endow'd, as fully proves the Good-nature and Wealth of the People of this Country.
After I had stay'd at _Wurtzbourg_, I embark'd on the _Maine_, in which is most pleasant Sailing betwixt Vineyards and fine Plains, that form a Prospect as agreeably diversify'd as can be wish'd: When I arriv'd at _Francfort_ I heard of the Death of _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whose Estate in _Holland_ I was joint Heir with my Brother, but her other Estates went to her Mother, who was still living.
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From _Francfort_ I went to _Dusseldorp_, where I found my Brother, who was still in an ill Humour with the Judges, for having made us lose our Cause: For my Part, as I was more inur'd to Disappointments, I endeavour'd to comfort him, and advis'd him to go to _Berlin_, and sell what Estate we had there: The Death of my dear Cousin set us at Liberty to proceed to this Sale; for now the Entail was only between my Brother and me: My Brother set out therefore for _Berlin_, and I went to HAMBOURG, to wait the Issue of the Sale: I stay'd there from _November_ to _Easter_, and spent the Winter very happily: I have already had the Honour to acquaint you, speaking of this City, that here was generally good Company: But this Winter there was more than usual, most of the People of Quality that had Houses in the Neighbourhood coming thither to pass the Season, and there were moreover several Ministers sent to the Circle of _Lower Saxony_, who were for most Part charming good Company: Such a one was _M. Poussin_, the Envoy of _France_, who was really a Minister of great Parts and uncommon Merit: The other Envoys were all likewise choice Companions: Besides these Ministers there were several other Families at _Hambourg_ where Foreigners of any tolerable Rank were perfectly well entertain'd: The Count _de Nat_, a Lieutenant-General in the Emperor's Service, and formerly Minister of State to the Duke of _Holstein_, and General of his Forces, kept a grand House there, which was noted for one of the best in _Hambourg_, where was a great Resort of Company every Day without the least Confusion: And there was a charming Air of Liberty throughout, which receiv'd additional Lustre from the noble and gracious Deportment of the Countess, that Minister's Wife, to all Strangers that came to her: I need not give you a more particular Account of this Lady; for I remember to have heard you speak of her, as a Person of distinguish'd Merit, and who, with a great Share of Wit, was to the utmost degree polite. The Count _de Guldenstein_ made a considerable Figure also at _Hambourg_; his Table was delicate, and always furnish'd with the best of Company; judge, _Madame_, whether I could think the time tedious in a City, where from Morning till Night there was a continual Round of Pleasure: We din'd to Day at one House, To-morrow at another; and in the Afternoons there was Play, which was sometimes interrupted by Adjournments to the Opera, with which I was very well pleas'd: I found the Orchestre excellent, the Decorations noble, the Dances very well executed, the Actors richly dress'd, and such as endeavour'd to play their Parts for the best.
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I set out from _Hambourg_ with a numerous Company to go to the Fair of KIEL, which begins the next Day after _Epiphany_, and holds Three Weeks: All this time _Hambourg_ is a perfect Desert, for every body hurries to this Fair, because 'tis there that they are commonly paid their Rents, that Leases are renew'd with the Farmers, and that Money is let out to Advantage: Tho' I had no Business of this nature to transact there, yet I was determin'd not to stay behind so much good Company as went from _Hambourg_.
The Town itself is inconsiderable; it stands between Hills on an Arm of the Sea, where it forms a Lake, and washes the Walls of the Duke's Castle, which is in very bad Repair, and quite unfurnish'd: And there's a Garden to it, which is in as bad Order as the Building: This Town is so populous all the Fair-time, that 'tis difficult to get a Lodging: The Gentry meet every Evening at a House, where is Variety of Play, and very often there are Parties made for Supper, which is generally follow'd with a Ball: There is moreover a _German_ Comedy, which, tho' detestable, is well frequented.
After the Fair was over, I went and pass'd Two Days with a Friend of mine at an Estate of his Three Leagues from _Kiel_: Then I return'd to _Hambourg_, where I stay'd till _Easter_, and having receiv'd News from _Berlin_, that no Purchaser could be found who was willing to give so much Money for my Estate as I demanded; I resolv'd to go thither, in order to make some Settlement about it with my Brother; I kept there _incog._ as well as I could, for I made myself known to only Two or Three Friends besides my Steward: When my Business was done I set out from _Berlin_ with my Brother, in order to go to his House at _Zell_; where I intended to stay till the proper Season for taking the Waters at _Carelsbadt_.
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When that time came, I departed from _Zell_: I stay'd some time at BLANKENBERG, where the Empress's Father and Mother then resided: This is no considerable Town: There is a Castle, which, by its Situation upon a very high Hill, is mightily inconvenient for the Duke's Domestics, who all live in the Town: 'Tis an old Building, which the Father of the present Duke has caus'd to be repair'd and fitted up, as well as possible in the modern Taste: The Apartments are small, the only large one being a very beautiful Saloon, the Walls whereof are adorn'd with Pilasters, and Pictures between them of the Princes and Princesses, Parents to the Duke and Duchess: And at the End of the Saloon are Chimneys, over which are the Pictures of the Duke and Duchess themselves at full Length.
To this Castle is a very fine Park adjoining, in which the Duchess has a Menagery, or rather, a Farm-house, where she has a great Number of Cows that she sent for from _Swisserland_, in a Stable which is kept extraordinary clean.
The Duke and Duchess were so kind to me, that I long'd to be in their Service: I had no longer any Thoughts of being a Clergyman, and was then at entire Liberty to make serious Reflections upon all the Projects that had enter'd into my Head: Having then a Fancy to serve the Duke of _Blankenberg_, I took my Measures for that End almost as soon as I had thought of it: The Privy Counsellor undertook to speak for me, and at first he had a very favourable Answer, but at last it far'd with me in this Attempt, as it had in all the rest; I receiv'd a great many Compliments, and yet was deny'd.
After having stay'd awhile at _Blankenberg_, I took Leave of the Duke and Duchess: The Princess was so good as to accept of a Couple of very pretty Dogs I had brought with me; and me made me a Present of a Gold Medal worth 25 Ducats, stamp'd with the Effigy of the Duke her Husband, very much like him.
From _Blankenberg_ I went to BARBI[35], where I had the Honour of waiting upon the Duke of _Saxony_, who commonly resides there: This Prince was heretofore in the Service of the late King of _Prussia_, when he was only Elector: He had left the Service a long time, and retir'd to his Town of _Barbi_, where he has erected a noble Castle, the Apartments of which are perfectly well furnish'd: There's a superb Saloon, with a Chamber of Audience on one Side of it, and a Closet, that are both worth seeing; all the Furniture being of crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, of admirable Workmanship.
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From _Barbi_ I proceeded to CARELSBADT by the way of _Leipsick_: I was soon weary of using the Waters, because the Season was so far advanc'd, that most of the Water-Drinkers were gone: Having therefore nothing to write to you of any of the Acquaintance which is commonly made at Places of this nature, I shall only treat of _Carelsbadt_ itself: 'Tis a very dirty Place, and inhabited only by Artificers, who work in old Iron: The Waters taken here are of Two Kinds, and they are distinguish'd by the Names of the _Sproudel_ and the _Muhlbadt_: The _Sproudel_-Water is extremely hot, and gushes out of the Ground with a most vehement Stream, as big as a Man about the Waist: Its Waters are not only hot, but scalding hot, which is the more surprizing, because the Fountain from whence they flow, is on the Side of a River very rapid, and very cold: Yet, in the midst of this River, one sees mineral Waters, which smoak as if they were boiling in a Caldron.
As to the _Muhlbadt_ 'tis but little more than lukewarm: 'Tis not very long that the Physicians have prescrib'd the Use of this Water, which formerly serv'd to wash diseased Cattle in with very good Success; but the Physicians taking the nature of this Water into Consideration, have since recommended it to those People who find the Waters of the _Sproudel_ too violent in their Operation: I have made Use of both, and they work'd with me very well: They have no ill Taste; and 'tis certain, that if it were ever so little disagreeable, it would be impossible for People to drink so much of it, as they do every Day: The thing that I dislike them most for, is, that they must be taken in one's Chamber, which must be also kept close shut up, because the _Sproudel_ makes one sweat largely, so that were ever so little Air to be let into the Room, one should be in Danger of catching Rheumatisms: People scarce ever stir out till Three or Four Hours after they have done drinking the Waters; and the rest of the Day there's an absolute Necessity of walking about to prevent sleeping, which after Dinner is dangerous: The worst on't is, that as necessary as Walking is, there's not one agreeable Place to walk in, the Walks being all extremely narrow, and nothing but Rocks to be seen, look which way one will: The finest Walk of all is in a square Place, which is planted with Rows of Lime-Trees: Opposite to this Square is a great House, where there are very fine Rooms, in which the Persons of Quality, who drink the Waters, assemble at Five o'Clock, and play till Eight, the Hour for Supper, at which Meal People ought to be very sparing; Regimen being one of the most necessary things to be observ'd in the Taking of those Waters.
When I had done taking them I set out Post for PRAGUE, where I knew that their Imperial Majesties were to be present for their Consecration and Coronation: I arriv'd there the Day before their Majesties were to make their Entry, which was perform'd with great Magnificence, but would have been abundantly more pompous, if the bad Weather had not prevented the intended Cavalcade, which would have been one of the noblest Sights in the World: The Emperor propos'd to have enter'd this Capital on Horseback, at the Head of all the Nobility of _Bohemia_, and they had all laid out prodigious Sums in Horses and Equipages; but a monstrous Shower of Rain fell, which frustrated all the Preparations: Their Majesties made their Entry in a magnificent Coach lin'd with crimson Velvet, richly embroider'd with Gold: The Emperor, who sate alone in the Back part of it, was dress'd in a Habit of Silver Brocade embroider'd with Gold, with a Hat on in the Imperial Fashion, with straw-colour'd Plumes: The Empress, who sate over-against him, was dress'd in a green silver'd Stuff all cover'd with Diamonds: The Two young Archduchesses follow'd in another Coach, with the Princess of _Aversberg_ their Governess in Company.
As soon as it was known in the City that their Majesties were coming, all the Bells were rung, the Cannon fir'd from the Ramparts, and the Burghers and Garison made several Salvo's of the Small Arms: The Magistrates of the Three Towns which compose the City of _Prague_ receiv'd their Majesties at the City Gates, where the chief Burgomaster of the Quarter call'd the _Old Town_ gave them the Keys of the Three Towns, and congratulated them on their Arrival at the City of _Prague_: After he had ended his Speech, their Majesties were welcom'd a second time by the Cannon of the Ramparts, and by the Salvo's of the Small Arms from the Burghers and the Garison: They then continued their March towards the Palace, and in their Passage met with the Friars and Nuns, who saluted them at the Gates of their several Convents: The Emperor and the Empress stopp'd their Coach every now-and-then, on Purpose to be seen by those Friars; but there was no Convent that was treated with so many Marks of Distinction as that of the Jesuits: They had the Honour of complimenting their Majesties in a Speech, with which they seem'd well satisfy'd: When they were arriv'd at the Palace, their Majesties alighted from the Coach, and went to the Metropolitan Church, which joins to the Palace: The Archbishop of _Prague_, at the Head of the Bishops his Suffragans and his Chapter, receiv'd them as they alighted out of the Coach, and after having complimented them in the Name of all the Clergy, he conducted them to their Praying-Desk, which was plac'd over-against the High Altar, and there their Majesties receiv'd the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament: After this there was a _Te Deum_, during which there was a triple Discharge of the Cannon and Small Arms: This done, they retir'd to their Apartments thro' a cover'd Gallery, which runs from the Church to the Castle: At Night they supp'd in public with the Two young Archduchesses.
Next Day their Majesties receiv'd the Compliments of the Three Estates of the Kingdom: On the following Days the Court return'd to their old Custom; I mean, they liv'd at _Prague_, after the same manner as they did at _Vienna_, till every thing was ready for the Ceremonies of the Consecration and Coronation, which were to be perform'd on Two different Days.
Mean time I amus'd myself in viewing what was most remarkable in the Town, and had Reason to be very well pleas'd with the Steps, which I was oblig'd to take to be well acquainted with this Capital[36], which may in my Opinion be reckon'd among the first Towns in _Europe_: It stands in a pleasant and fruitful Country, and the Palace and Pleasure-houses round it form a sort of Amphitheatre, which the River of _Moldaw_ divides into Two Parts, that are join'd by one of the finest Bridges in the World.
_Prague_ is divided into Three Parts, _viz._ The _Old Town_, which alone is as big as the other two Thirds of the City, namely, The _Little Town_ and The _New Town_: In the _Little Town_ stands the Metropolitan Church, and the Castle of the Kings of _Bohemia_, upon a Hill which they call _Ratschin_: This is the first Quarter of _Prague_ that one comes to from _Nuremberg_ or _Carelsbadt_.
The Metropolitan would be a great and noble Church, if it was finish'd; or rather, if it was rebuilt; for 'twas burnt by the _Swedes_ in 1648; what remains of it is inconsiderable, excepting however some very fine Chapels, that contain the Relics of certain Saints, for whom _Bohemia_ has a singular Veneration: Such is the Chapel in which rests the Body of _St. Wenceslaus_ King of _Bohemia_, by whom the Church was founded: This Saint is the Patron of _Bohemia_, and the whole Kingdom has a great Confidence in his Intercession: On one Side of the Choir is a stately Mausoleum, which contains the Body of _St. John Nepomucene_, who was beatify'd in 1721 with very great Pomp, in Presence of the Empress, who was at the Charge of the Ceremony: The City of _Prague_, in order to do Honour to the Memory of this Saint, has caus'd his Statue in Brass, as big as the Life, to be erected upon the Bridge, from whence the Emperor _Wenceslaus_, surnam'd the _Nero_ and _Caligula_ of _Germany_, threw him into the _Moldaw_, because that Friar, who was his Empress's Confessor, refus'd to reveal her Confession to him.
The Palace of the Kings of _Bohemia_, which joins to the Metropolitan Church, is a Heap of several Pavilions without any Regularity, and without much Ornament: The Inside is as ordinary as the Outside, yet for a little Expence it might easily be made a tolerable Structure: The only thing I observ'd here that could be call'd magnificent, was the Situation of it, for from their Majesties Apartments there's the finest View that can be imagin'd.
As one goes from the Palace upon the same Hill, one sees the great Houses of _Schwartzenbourg_, _Martinitz_, and _Tschermin_, which are noble Buildings, and most richly furnish'd: The last especially has more the Air of a Sovereign's Palace than of the House of a Subject; and he that inhabits it is one of the richest in the Emperor's Hereditary Dominions: I heard say, that he lent the Emperor 1500,000 Florins, which makes Three Millions of _French_ Livres, when the Exchange is at Par.