Part 2
As these Two Princes shew'd me great Marks of their Goodness, the Courtiers too, in Imitation of their Masters, were mighty civil to me: I was invited to the best Houses, and treated every Day with grand Feasts, and fresh Parties of Pleasure; and in a Word I pass'd the little Time I stay'd at _Heidelberg_ very pleasantly. I was so charm'd with that Court, that I had a great Mind to put in for some Employment there; and for that end I engag'd some Persons, who I thought could do me most Service; but notwithstanding the Courtiers seem'd so fond of me, I found a Cabal in my Way, which was powerful enough to hinder me from obtaining my Wish. These were, to my Misfortune, Persons of very good Credit, who did not care to see any body in Place, but such, as they knew, would truckle to them. The Great Chamberlain, to whom I plainly saw I was not acceptable, was one of those who made the greatest Opposition to my Advancement. 'Tis true, that I drew his Resentment upon me by my own Rashness and Folly: For one Day, as I was attending the Elector from the Princess's Apartment to his own, I went into a Room which, according to the Custom of the Court, no body was permitted to enter, except the Great Chamberlain; but this was more than I then knew, and therefore I went boldly into the Room, when a Harbinger of the Court came, and, with a very impertinent Air, bad me _turn out_----I ask'd him, Whether he had his Order for saying so from the Elector? He said, No; but from the Great Chamberlain: I then made him an Answer in a Style that surpriz'd him, and bad him tell the Grand Chamberlain something that I knew he would not be pleas'd with: At the same time I talk'd both against the Chamberlain and his Emissary in such a manner as gave Vent to my Spleen, but excluded me from the Service of one of the best Princes in the World. I took Leave afterwards of the Elector, who bad me Farewel, made me a considerable Present, and moreover gave me Letters of Recommendation to _Vienna_, where I intended to solicit some Employment.
I shall now give you a brief Account of the City and Castle of _Heidelberg_: The City stands on the Banks of the _Neckar_, with high Mountains on each Side, and only a narrow Passage between them, from which however there's a Prospect of the noblest Plain in _Germany_. In this City there was formerly a famous University, founded by _Rupert the Ruddy_, Count Palatine and Duke of _Bavaria_ in 1346. Here was to be seen one of the finest Libraries in _Europe_, but General _Tilly_ carry'd it off in 1622, and sent it to _Rome_, where it makes a considerable Part of the _Vatican_ Library. _Lewis_ the Dauphin of _France_, Grandfather of _Lewis_ XV. made himself Master of _Heidelberg_ by a Capitulation in 1698. nevertheless, all manner of Disorders were committed in it; a Part of the Electoral Palace was blown up, the City was burnt, and the very Corpses of the Electors, which were in the Coffins with the Ornaments of their Dignity, were dragg'd out of their Graves into the Square: And the _French_ would undoubtedly have committed greater Cruelties, if the Army of the Empire had not advanc'd towards _Heidelberg_, of which the _Germans_ made themselves Masters; and the Governor was prosecuted for Treachery, and sentenc'd to have his Choice, Whether to die by the Sword, or to have his Coat of Arms defac'd, his Sword broke, to be kick'd by the Hangman, and turn'd out of the Army with his Life: But he was so mean-spirited, as to prefer Infamy to Death, and retir'd to _Hildesheim_, where he has the Misfortune to be still living.
Some Time after this, the Marshal _de Lorge_ attack'd _Heidelberg_, but he could not master it, tho' the Place was defenceless. A Song was made upon him, the Burden of which was, _He would have taken_ Heidelberg, _if he had found the Door open_. There's no Sign now that _Heidelberg_ was ever ruin'd; 'tis well rebuilt; and if the present Elector had continued his Residence in it, would have been one of the finest Towns in _Germany_; but 'twas owing to the Protestants, that the Elector remov'd to _Manheim_. What gave Occasion to it was this: The Protestants of _Heidelberg_ and the Catholics have one Church between them, where the Nave of it belongs to the Protestants, and the Choir to the Catholics. When the present Elector had fix'd his Residence at _Heidelberg_, he desir'd that this Church, in which the Electors are interr'd, might be intirely Catholic; and for this end he made a Proposal to the Protestants, to give up the Nave, and engag'd that another Church should be built for them. The Inhabitants were very willing to consent to it, but the Ministers oppos'd it, and represented to the Citizens, that 'twas of dangerous Consequence to resign that Church, which was included in the Treaty of _Westphalia_, and in all the Treaties that had been made with the Princes of _Neubourgh_, on their Accession to the Electorate; that, after such a Resignation was once made, they could no longer expect the Protection of the Powers of their own Communion; and finally, that even the new Church, which was promis'd to be built for them, might with very great Ease be taken from them. The Elector having declar'd that he would be obey'd, the Ministers apply'd to the Protestant Body at the Dyet of the Empire. The Affair made a great Noise; and the Elector threatened the Inhabitants to abandon them; but they did not seem to be much concern'd at it, because they imagin'd, that if the Court went, the Regency and the Courts of Justice would remain with them, as they did in the Time of the late Elector. Nevertheless they were out in their Calculation, and the Elector, justly incens'd at the Disrespect of his Subjects, abandon'd them, and transfer'd his Court and all the Tribunals to _Manheim_; so that the Citizens, whose sole Dependance was on the Court, or the Officers of those Tribunals, are now very poor. They were quickly sensible of the Error they had committed, and went and threw themselves at the Elector's Feet; but the Prince gave no Ear to them, and has caus'd the City and Castle of _Manheim_ to be rebuilt.
The Castle of _Heidelberg_ to this Day shews the Marks of the Disorder committed there by the _French_; for there's a great Part of it in Ruins; and out of Four considerable Mansions, of which it consisted, there was only one that was not damag'd. That which remains of the Palace is in a Stile of Architecture, which I should be at a Loss to explain; 'tis neither Gothic nor Modern, but a _Rhapsody_ of all the Orders heap'd one upon another, without Fancy or Judgment; as if the Architect who conducted the Work, had only design'd a Building of great Expence, without troubling himself whether it was done well or ill. This Palace stands upon a very high Hill, with a magnificent Terrass towards the Town, from whence there's a Prospect of the Plain and of the Country too for several Leagues. The Inside of the Palace is scarce more regular than the Outside. The Elector's Apartment consists of a long Suite of Rooms, without Beauty or Proportion. Nor is there any thing agreeable in the whole but its Situation, which is owing to the Prospect that it commands. The other Apartments are very small, and of pretty difficult Access, because of a great many little Steps that lead up and down to them.
In the Vaults of this Palace there's the Tun, so famous for its enormous Size; 'tis said to contain 26,250 Gallons _Paris_ Measure. The Electors have had frequent Carousals on the Platform which is over it. I own to you, that I can't comprehend what Pleasure there can be in Tippling-Bouts of this Kind, at a Place where one cannot be at Ease; since a Man need not be very tall, for his Head to touch the Roof of the Vault, which besides is very dark.
As I was preparing to set out for _Vienna_ where I intended, as I said, to sollicit Employment, I receiv'd a Letter from _Paris_, with Advice that the Storm I so much dreaded was dispers'd, and that all my Fears were ill grounded, the Regent having no manner of Suspicion of me, but on the contrary, more inclin'd than ever to shew me the Effects of his Protection; thereupon I was earnestly exhorted to return to _Paris_, which Advice coming from a good Hand, I made no Scruple to comply with it.
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At my Arrival there I went to the Royal Palace as before: The Regent gave me a very good Reception, and _Madame_ made me so welcome, that it confirm'd my Hopes, that I should at length obtain something at the Court of _France_. I found People very much divided about the War which had been just declar'd against _Spain_: The _French_ were indeed for a War, but they were sorry to make it against a Prince who was born among them, and for whose Establishment they had expended so many Millions, and so much Blood. The Regent was even at a Loss to find any one to command the Army, because several had excus'd themselves. Only the Marshal _de Berwic_, the Natural Son of _James_ II. King of _England_, prefer'd the Service of the Regency to the old Obligations he had to the King of _Spain_. His Catholic Majesty, whose Forces this Duke had commanded, had heap'd Favours upon him; he had not only made him and his Son Grandees of _Spain_, but had moreover granted to both of 'em the Golden Fleece, and the Duchy of _Liria_ for his Son and his Posterity. Nevertheless, he accepted of the Command with Pleasure, and set out for _Spain_.
The Regent having engag'd the Prince of _Conti_ to take upon him the Command of the Cavalry, order'd him 100,000 Crowns for his Equipage, and granted him 60,000 Livres a Month to keep an open Table; besides which, his Horses were to be kept at the King's Expence. When his Royal Highness had appointed these Two Generals, he was not very much at a Loss for subaltern Officers: To encourage them to serve with the more Zeal, there was a great Promotion, consisting of 6 Lieutenant-Generals, 72 Major-Generals, and 196 Brigadiers. The Regent also gave Pensions to above Threescore Officers, who repair'd to the Marshal _de Berwic_ in _Navarre_, where the Campaign was open'd by the Siege of _Fontarabia_. At the same Time the Regent caus'd a Manifesto to be publish'd, which was couch'd in Terms full of Regard to the King of _Spain_, Cardinal _Alberoni_ being reproach'd for every Thing that was blameworthy in that Prince's Conduct; and accus'd of being the Author of the War between the Two Crowns, and of having hinder'd the King his Master from accepting the Treaty of the Quadruple Alliance, a Treaty which had not been concluded, said the Regent, but for the Welfare of _Europe_, and particularly of _France_ and _Spain_. His Royal Highness protested, that the War was only made to induce the King of _Spain_ to a Peace; and affirm'd, That _France_ did not mean to make any Conquest upon his Dominions; and that if she was compell'd to do it, she should be always ready to restore such Conquests at the Peace.
Cardinal _Alberoni_ dispers'd several Pieces in the Name of his Master, by which he invited the _French_ Soldiers to take the Part of his Catholic Majesty; and to succeed the better in this Design, he engag'd the King of _Spain_ to head his Army, hoping, that upon his very first Appearance, one Half of the Army of _France_ would desert to his Standard. The Cardinal being full of Notions so chimerical and so injurious to Officers and Troops, as incapable of Cowardice as of Treachery; he oblig'd the _Chevalier de S----_ who had been a Colonel in _France_, but by Misfortunes was forc'd to go to _Spain_, to write to some of the chief Commanders, and solicit them to come over with their Regiments to the _Spanish_ Service. The _Chevalier_, who built Hopes of a considerable Fortune upon the Success of this Project, wrote to the Lieutenant-Colonel of _Normandy_, and sent the Letter to him by an Officer, who was indeed a Gentleman, but at that Time committed an Action unworthy of that Character. This Officer came to the _French_ Army, and gave the Letter to the Person it was directed to, who carrying it to the Marshal _de Berwic_, he caus'd the unfortunate Courier to be arrested, and hang'd up in Two Hours after. The Cardinal was very much mortify'd by having miscarry'd in this Attempt, not considering that the same was impracticable, by reason the Fidelity of the _French Officers_ was never to be corrupted; but it was not so at that Time with the _Soldiers_, of whom a great Number deserted to the _Spanish_ Army. Persons of Credit, who at that Time saw Cardinal _Alberoni_ in private, assur'd me, that Minister was so fully persuaded that whole Regiments at a Time would come over to the _Spanish_ Service; that when he was told 50 or 100 Deserters, more or less, were newly come; _What signifies that_, said he? _His Majesty wants to see Colours and Standards arrive, and not a Handful of Men._ The Cardinal had a great many Fortune-hunters about him, who were continually telling him, that intire Battalions were just coming over; and by the Favour of such Predictions, which never came to any Thing, they got out of him what they wanted, for no other Consideration but a sorry improbable Scheme, and which tended even sometimes to deceive the Minister and betray him. One may guess at the Character of those Gentlemen by one _F----_, who had been a Reformado-Colonel in _France_, but being press'd hard by merciless Creditors, could find no other Means to escape from their ill Humour, than by taking Shelter under Cardinal _Alberoni_. This _F----_ was a terrible Rattle, and could rodomontade better than any body. The Minister made him a Brigadier, and withal gave him a Gratuity of 100 Pistoles; but our Spark not thinking this sufficient, wanted forsooth to be a Major-General, and teiz'd the Cardinal for it to such a Degree, that to get rid of such an importunate Solicitor, his Eminency was oblig'd to promise him, that it should not be long before he should be prefer'd. My Gentleman had no Time to wait, and renew'd his Solicitations; but being put off, he was quite out of Patience, and at last declar'd, that he would serve no longer if he was not made a Major-General. His Eminence grew angry, so that _F----_ thought it was proper to submit, or at least to assume a submissive Air. Mean while he study'd Revenge, and imagin'd the only way to make his Fortune in _France_ would be, to seize the Cardinal, and run away with him to the Regent. The Thing that remain'd to be consider'd was, what Methods he should take to succeed; and 'tis even said, that he had laid his Plot so well, that had it not been for the Treachery of one of the Conspirators who discover'd the whole Mystery, the same would have succeeded. The Cardinal caus'd _F----_ to be arrested, and sent Prisoner to _Pampeluna_, and from thence to the Castle of _Segovia_, where he was try'd, and would infallibly have been beheaded, but Cardinal _Alberoni_ happen'd to be disgrac'd at the same Time, as I shall have the Honour to tell you anon.
While these Trifles pass'd in the _Spanish_ Army, the _French_ went on furiously to Action. _Fontarabia_ was closely besieg'd, upon which the King and Queen made as if they would relieve it; but while they were consulting about it, the Marshal _de Berwic_ oblig'd it to capitulate. This Conquest, tho' to the Advantage of _France_, did not abate one Jot of that Aversion which the _French_ had to the War. The People contributed to it not without Reluctance; nevertheless it was the Regent's Interest to continue it; and as he perceiv'd they were already so over-burden'd with Taxes, that 'twas in vain to think of creating new ones, he contriv'd new Methods to fill the Treasury. He obtain'd an Arret of Council for making a considerable Number of Bank Bills, those which had been made before having been soon snatch'd up. Then the Council pass'd another Arret, for diminishing the Value of the Species. The Bustle this Arret occasion'd at _Paris_ is not to be imagin'd; every body was glad to part with their Cash, upon which they apprehended there would be a Loss, and they hurry'd to receive Paper in Exchange, upon the Promise which the Council had made, that the Value of the Bills should be fix'd, so as never to rise nor fall. Nevertheless, it was not long before the People seriously reflected upon the Invalidity of the Matter, into which their Gold and Silver was transform'd, and the Hurry to the Bank abated. But the Regent soon contriv'd a way to bring in the little Cash that remain'd in private Hands; for he caus'd an Arret of Council to pass, which forbad any one's having more than 500 Livres about him, upon the Penalty of a great Fine. In Pursuance of this Arret, People began again to change their Species for Bank Bills, which were in Truth more commodious than Cash, because People might then carry the Value of several Millions about them, without sweating under the Load. This was a rare way to thrive, when a Man carry'd his whole Estate thus in his Pocket!
By this Means did the Duke Regent provide for the immense Charges of the War with _Spain_, which was carry'd on with Vigour; and soon after the taking of _Fontarabia_, the _French_ Army laid Siege to _St. Sebastian_, which held but Twenty-five Days, when both the Town and Castle surrender'd.
As long as the War continued with Success in _Spain_ I never left soliciting at the Royal Palace, but always in vain. I spent most of my Time in the Regent's Antichamber, and now-and-then went for Recreation to the House of _Madame de R----_, whom I have not had the Honour of mentioning to you for a good while, but my Passion was now grown cool, so that all those Visits were but a melancholy Relief in the Situation that I then stood in. My Friends made me reflect seriously on the small Hopes I ought to entertain of succeeding at the Court of _France_. The _Abbe de Asfeld_ perceiving the Anxiety I was under, took the Advantage of it to drive me, as I may term it, from a Place where I lost my Time, and spent the little Money I had to no Purpose; therefore I left _Paris_ once more, and travelled by the Way of _Metz_, to avoid the troublesome Questions of the King's Lieutenant at _Toul_.
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I pass'd thro' St. MENEHOULT, which is a Town in _Champagne_, built in a Morass, between Two Eminencies. A little after I was there, it had the Misfortune to be burnt. I was told, that the Jews of _Metz_ offer'd to rebuild it intirely, on condition they might be permitted to have a Synagogue there.
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From _St. Menehoult_ I went to VERDUN, an Episcopal City, whose Bishops take the Titles of Counts of _Verdun_, and Princes of the Holy Empire. This Diocese makes Part of the Three Bishopricks yielded to _France_ by _Lorrain_. The Cathedral is dedicated to our Lady. In this Church there's a Well, which is preserv'd there for a Supply of Water in case of Fire, because the Place being on a very high Ground, it would be difficult to bring Water to it.
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From _Verdun_ I went to METZ, where I made some Stay. This is a very large Town, at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Seille_. It was heretofore the Capital of _Austrasia_, and afterwards reckon'd as an imperial City till 1552, that the Constable of _Montmorency_ made a Conquest of it for _Henry_ II. King of _France_. The Emperor _Charles_ V. try'd in vain to retake it, when the Duke of _Guise_, who commanded in the Place, acquir'd great Reputation in the Defence of it, and oblig'd him to raise the Siege, at which the Emperor was so mortify'd, that he resign'd his Dominions, and retir'd to a Cloyster. _Metz_, _Toul_ and _Verdun_ were confirm'd to _France_ in 1559, by the Treaty of _Chateau-Cambresis_, and this Cession was afterwards confirm'd by the Peace of _Munster_ in 1648.
The Cathedral of _Metz_, which is dedicated to St. _Stephen_, is a Church of greater Note for its Antiquity than for its Beauty. The most remarkable Thing in it is its baptismal Font, which is of one intire Piece of _Porphyry_ about 10 Foot in Length.
There is very good Company at _Metz_, and I should have been glad to have stay'd there longer, if my private Affairs would have permitted it. There is a Parliament, which consists of a good Number of Men of Quality, who are all very rich. Besides, here is always a strong Garison, and several Persons of easy Fortunes, who commonly spend the Winter here. When I was here, _M. de Saillant_ was the commanding Officer. He liv'd with Splendor, and I commonly din'd with him, and supp'd with the Intendant of the Province, who was then _M. de Celi_ of the _Harlay_ Family, and was very much esteem'd.
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When I set out from _Metz_, I struck into the Road for _Germany_, and went to SPIRES. This Town may be consider'd as a Monument of the Ravage of War, there being a great many Ruins to be seen in it, which are the Remains of the Houses burnt by the _French_, in the War they made for the Destruction of the Palatinate. It was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Chamber, which after 'twas ruin'd, was transfer'd to _Wetzlar_. _Spires_ is the See of a Bishop Suffragan to the Bishop of _Mentz_.
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I pass'd the _Rhine_ at _Spires_, over a Bridge of Boats, and arrived in a few Hours at _Heidelberg_, from whence I went to _Stutgard_, and so to ULM.[3] This is one of the most considerable Cities in _Germany_, and has magnificent Structures both sacred and prophane, and great Squares adorn'd with Fountains. Our Lady's, which is the most considerable of all the Churches, belongs to the Lutherans, who are the Magistrates of the City; but the Roman Catholics are allow'd the free Exercise of their Religion here. This City was formerly but a Village, which _Charlemain_ granted to the Abbey of _Reichenau_. The Inhabitants of _Ulm_ redeem'd their Liberty on the Payment of a considerable Sum, after which they got their Town made an Imperial City, and at last it became the Capital of _Swabia_.
_Ulm_ is very well fortify'd; it maintains a stout Garison, and its Ramparts are furnish'd with good Cannon; nevertheless, the Elector of _Bavaria_ took it with Ease in the Beginning of the late War, when that Prince declar'd for his Nephew the King of _Spain_, tho' 'tis said, his Electoral Highness had a Correspondence at the same time in the Town. But the Battle of _Hochstet_ help'd to restore it to its Liberty, and notwithstanding the Menaces of the _Marshal de Villars_, it receiv'd an Imperial Garison.
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From _Ulm_ I went to AUGSBOURG[4], a very ancient City, where a _Roman_ Colony was planted by the Emperor _Augustus_, from whom it had the Latin Name _Augusta_. It has from time to time undergone several Revolutions: In 1518 _Luther_ came hither to give a public Account of his Doctrine; and in 1530, _Charles_ V. summon'd the Dyet of the Empire hither, which Dyet was famous for the noted _Confession_ of _Augsbourg_, that the Protestants presented to the Emperor. In another Dyet held in 1548, the same _Charles_ V. propos'd that Formulary call'd the _Interim_, with regard to the Communion in both Kinds, and the Marriage of Priests: This Formulary has done irreparable Injury to the Catholic Religion.