Part 19
A little Distance from the _Exchange_ is the famous Tower of _London_, which is of the same Use to this City as the _Bastille_ is to _Paris_, with this Difference however, that 'tis not so easy for a King of _England_ to store it, as it is for a King of _France_ to fill the _Bastille_: This Tower is properly speaking a Citadel, form'd of a Number of Houses, surrounded with Fortifications: Here is the Arsenal, which is the best furnish'd, and kept in the best Condition of any in _Europe_: In this Tower are also preserv'd the Ornaments and Treasury of the Crown: The principal Pieces are 1. The Crown of _Edward the Confessor_, with which the Kings of _England_ are crown'd: 'Tis of solid Gold, set with Diamonds and other precious Stones. 2. The Crown of State, which the King wears when he meets the Parliament: It has a remarkable Pearl, an Emerald, and a Ruby upon it, so large, that the Value of them is not to be estimated: After I had seen this Crown, I was shew'd that which serv'd for the Coronation of Q. _Mary_, the Daughter of _James_ II. 'Tis cover'd all over with Diamonds, admirable both for their Size and Beauty: Then I saw the Prince of _Wales_'s Crown, which is all over plain, without any Jewels; and besides these, I had the Sight of many other rich Things, of which I don't pretend to give you the Particulars: I will only add, that the Method of exposing them to View is very well contriv'd, to prevent their being stole; for they are only seen thro' a large Iron Grate, so strong, that it would be a hard Matter to force it.
After I had seen the Treasury, I was carry'd into another Room, where I saw all the Statues of the Kings of _England_, from _William the Conqueror_, Duke of _Normandy_, to _James_ II. They are represented in Armour, and on Horseback, but the whole is of Wood colour'd, which makes them frightful Objects.
As you might happen to think me tedious if I were to be more particular, I chuse to pass over many things in Silence, and shall only say a Word or two of the Character of the _English_ People: I thought _Englishmen_ were much the same in their own Country as the _French_ are out of _France_, that is to say, haughty, scornful, and such as think nothing good enough; and in like manner they are when abroad, what the _French_ are in their own Country, good-natur'd, civil and affable: Of all Nations I found the _Italians_ were most esteem'd in _England_, the _French_ and _Germans_ being in some Degree hated: But their Hatred to the _Germans_ is of no older Date than the Reign of the Elector of _Hanover_; for till then the _English_ look'd upon us as if they neither lov'd nor envy'd us, but now they have a Notion, that the Money of _England_ goes over to _Germany_; and seem to think, that we had no Coin, till they call'd the House of _Hanover_ to govern them[30]. As to their Hatred of the _French_, 'tis of a longer standing, insomuch that it would be a difficult Task to determine the Age of it; and I am apt to think, it runs in their Blood; for the Antipathy extends even to the minutest Things; for Example, in the Article of Dress; when the _French_ wear little Hats, the _English_ wear theirs with monstrous broad Brims; and when they know that great Hats are worn in _France_, they reduce the Brims of theirs till they are as much too narrow; and 'tis the very same case with regard to the rest of their Dress; so that I am persuaded, the _English_ would soon quit any Fashion, were it ever so becoming and elegant, if once the _French_ thought fit to follow it[31]. But how changeable soever they are in their Fashions, as well as the _French_, yet they have not the Fancy which the latter are remarkable for, and know not how to dress to Advantage; for, in short, there's not a People upon Earth that set themselves off so ill as the _English_ do, and really they had need to be as well-shap'd as they are for the Generality, or their Dress would be insupportable.
The _English_ Women are also perfectly well-shap'd, and are for most part pretty, and very agreeable Companions; but, like the Men, they han't the Art of Dress; and tho' they are always very neat in their Cloaths, yet they have such an odd way of putting them on, as if they endeavour'd to disfigure themselves: When they go out in a Deshabille, they commonly put on a Camblet Cloak as long as their Petticoats, which is clos'd before, and on each Side there is a Slit, thro' which they put their Arms: They have withal a Hood of the same Stuff as the Cloak, which is tied under the Chin with a colour'd Ribbon[32]. Nor is this Dress unbecoming to the Sex, for 'tis very often us'd by the Citizens Wives and Daughters, and is also much worn among the gay Ladies, when they go upon Intrigues with their Lovers; at which time they repair thus rigg'd on board certain Wherries, that carry them to Houses of Entertainment design'd for such Interviews; the very Boats too seem to be made to the Purpose, being cover'd with scarlet Cloth, or very neat Stuffs, and the Watermen being us'd to the Business, manage it as well as the Gondoliers of _Venice_.
That amiable Freedom which reigns in _England_ gives the People an Air of Gaiety that is to be met with no where else so universally: The Nobility, the Citizens, and the lower Rank of People have all their Recreations; and whereas in other Countries the Rich alone seem to have a Right to Pleasures, the _English_ Nation has Diversions for all Classes; and the Mechanic, as well as his Lordship, knows how to make himself merry, when he has done his Day's Work. The _English_ are very much for Shows; Battles especially, of what nature soever, are an agreeable Amusement to them, and of these they have all Kinds: Sometimes they engage Bulls with other Beasts, and at other times they have Cock-fighting: You have undoubtedly heard talk, how these little Animals will fight: The Cocks of _England_ are the best in the World for this Sport, that being a Species, of which there is not the like in other Countries: Their Bill is very long, and when they have once begun to fight, they battle it with such Fury, that one, if not both, is generally left dead upon the Spot. Before they are exposed in the Pit where they are to engage, little Spurs are fasten'd to their Feet, with which those Animals gall each other dextrously: The _English_, who are no indifferent Spectators of the Engagement, form themselves immediately into several Parties in Favour of the Combatants; and, according to the Custom of their Country, lay considerable Wagers; for, it must be observ'd, there is no Nation in the World so fond of laying Wagers as the _English_.
The Battles of Animals are not the only ones to be seen in _England_, there being very often Combats of Gladiators, when the Wretches for pitiful Lucre fight with one another at Swords, and very often wound each other cruelly: The _English_ delight very much in this sort of Prize-fighting: They shout loud Applauses when either of the Two wounds his Antagonist, and when the Battle is over, the Two Combatants shake Hands, and make each other a low Bow, to shew they don't bear one another any Malice: I can't conceive how they find any Fellows to take up such an Exercise; the rather, because 'tis liable to very fatal Consequences; for they say, that by their Laws, he who wounds his Adversary, shall be at the Expence of curing him, and he that kills him, is to be hang'd without Mercy.
There's another sort of Prize-fighters, who fight every Evening in the Summer in a Square near _St. James_'s, with no other Weapons but Quarter-staves, or wooden Swords, with which they break one another's Ribs, or knock one another on the Head, and the Victor is generally regal'd by some or other of the Spectators. I have also seen, as I have been going over the Square, a pack of Wrestlers, that endeavour'd to throw one another down, and when one of the Two has tripp'd up his Adversary's Heels, he politely gave him his Hand to help him up again: At all these Performances considerable Wagers are laid, as I have already had the Honour to tell you.
After having seen every thing at _London_ worth a Stranger's Curiosity, I was prevail'd on, before I left _England_, to go and take a View of the Royal Palaces in the Country: I saw _Hampton Court_ and _Windsor_, which are Two magnificent Palaces, yet Trifles in comparison with the Royal Palaces of _France_: _Kensington_ Palace pleas'd me well enough: 'Tis a House that formerly belong'd to an _English_ Nobleman, of whom King _William_ bought it, because 'twas so near _London_: They were making some Alterations at it when I was there: The King's Apartment is very spacious, but not the most magnificent, and 'tis adorn'd with some Paintings by _Vandyke_, which are of uncommon Beauty; One of these Pictures represents King _Charles_ I. on Horseback, and in another are his Queen, her Waiting-women and all her Children: I never saw any thing better done than these Two Pieces are. _Kensington_ Gardens would be very fine for a private Person, but for a King, methinks I could wish them to be somewhat more magnificent.
Having finish'd my Travels in _England_, where I stay'd near a Month, with a View of the Royal Palaces, I embark'd for _Holland_; but had not a quick Passage, by reason of a Calm, that surpriz'd us at Sea, so that we could neither go forwards nor backwards: At length, in Five Days after we had left _London_, we arriv'd in the Mouth of the _Maese_, where we bore a hard Gale of Wind, which blew all Night: Next Day we got safe into the _Maese_, and by Noon came to _Rotterdam_, from whence I set out the same Day for the HAGUE.
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As soon as I arriv'd there I thought of renewing my Wardrobe, and refitting my Equipage. Tho' all this would not come to a great deal, yet being then very short of Money, I was forc'd to go a borrowing: I therefore gave Letters of Attorny to my Creditors, to receive an Annuity which came to me from my Family, and of which I shar'd one Third with my Brother, and _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_. As my Brother and I were Minors when my Grandmother left us that Annuity, _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ being the eldest of the Family, qualify'd herself to receive it: She was first paid the whole upon her own Receipts, but afterwards she gave each of us our Share, which she all along continued to do ever since I was of Age: My Creditors were glad to accept of the Powers which I delegated to them, but, for their greater Security, they desir'd me to make myself sure and certain that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ would punctually pay them: I wrote immediately, and desir'd them to write to her likewise; but as my good Cousin was never a hearty Friend to me, she thought fit to thwart me in the Expedient I had contriv'd to raise Money: Instead of doing me the Honour to write me an Answer, she wrote to my Creditors, to caution them to be upon their Guard; that I only meant to cheat them, that I had no Share in any such Annuity, and that every Word I had told them about it was a Lye. My Creditors were somewhat startled at this Intelligence, and imagin'd that they had to do with a Knave, who only intended to bilk them, and that they should be left without Remedy if I once gave them the Slip: I did every thing on my Part to make them easy; I told them that _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_ had conceal'd the Truth from them, on Purpose to involve me in Trouble; and that I would engage she should retract the Letters she had sent them: Besides this, I offer'd to pay them out of the Income of my own Estate: But all I could say to them signify'd nothing; their Jealousy had taken deep Root, and they resolv'd, in order to secure their Debts, to arrest me: And so they actually did; for one _Sunday_ Morning I was accosted by some ill-favour'd Companions, who desir'd me to remove with a good Grace to the Prisons at the _Hague_, if I did not like to be carry'd thither by Force. I was a little confounded at such a Visit, and saw that I must instantly lose my Liberty, and perhaps for a long time too, when _Madame Pyll_, a Tradeswoman at the _Hague_, to whom I was already indebted, was so kind as to advance me what was necessary to pay my Creditors; by which means I got out of the Clutches of those impertinent Fellows.
Not many Days after this happen'd, other Creditors being inform'd of it, imagin'd that the only infallible Method for their being paid was, to take the same Course with me, and they also resolv'd to arrest me: Accordingly, Notice was brought to me at 6 o'Clock in the Morning, that 'twas apprehended there was a Design form'd against me, and that some Serjeants were sauntring about to nab me: I had my Breeches on indeed, but nothing more than a Night-gown; and not caring to take the Trouble of dressing myself intirely, especially as I knew that there were not many People stirring at the _Hague_ at that time, I thought it best to steal off in my Night-gown: I made my Escape to the House of my dear _Madame Pyll_: I could have wish'd this good Woman would have once more pacify'd those ravenous Hounds, but I had not the Assurance to mention it to her; and only desir'd she would give me Shelter for a little while, which she granted with Pleasure: But I was soon under a Necessity of shifting my Quarters, for the Catch-Polls being inform'd where I was harbour'd, were actually coming to take me, when this honest Woman help'd me to slip out at the Back-door, and lent me a Cloak, in which having muffled myself up, I had nothing to think of but how to get away from the _Hague_: I put myself on board the _Delft_ Passage-Boat, and went in quest of _Texera_, a rich _Portuguese_, who had a House half a League from the _Hague_. We were such good Friends, that I was persuaded he would not abandon me in the Situation he found me in: And indeed, with all the Generosity possible, he advanc'd me what Money I wanted, and had me conducted to _Honslaerdyk_, where I stay'd Two Days in the Castle: My Keeper happen'd to be one that was Waiting-woman to my late Mother, who did me all the Services she was capable of, and went and acquainted _Pyll_ where I was; upon which she came to see me, and brought me my Cloaths: I then consider'd what I had to do next: I had a great mind to return to the _Hague_, to treat with the Creditors who prosecuted me; but considering, that perhaps as soon as I had made these easy, others would give me fresh Trouble, I resolv'd to go to _Germany_, where I should be nearer at hand to write to my Family for the settling of my Affairs; for I was still under a Prohibition to go to _Berlin_; tho' why I was thus forbid to go to my own native Place, I knew not.
I went the Road to _Aix la Chapelle_, in Hopes that I should there find the Count _de L----_, to whom I had lent 400 Ducats 7 or 8 Years ago. He was then in the Service of the Elector Palatine, and I was assur'd that he was in waiting about _Aix_. The first Day I went to _Dort_, and from thence to BOIS LE DUC.
This is a pretty considerable Place in _Dutch Brabant_: 'Tis encompass'd all round with Marshes, and may easily be laid under Water for several Leagues round, which makes it one of the strongest Places in _Europe_: 'Twas _Henry_ of _Brabant_ that gave it the Name of _Bois le Duc_, or _Bolduc_, i. e. the _Duke's Wood_, because he directed the Building of it in 1171, in the same Place where he caus'd a Wood to be cut down.
At _Bois le Duc_ I went into the _Diligence_, which is the Name of the Stage-Coach that goes to MASTRICHT: I made an Acquaintance in it with an _English_ Gentleman that was going to _Aix la Chapelle_, to make use of the Waters: He came directly from _England_, and being, as 'tis probable, over-burden'd with his Guineas, he was at every turn exclaiming against the Cheapness of every thing on this Side of the Water: But a little Adventure he was engag'd in at _Mastricht_ alter'd his Opinion: He went out all alone the very Night we came thither, with a Design, he said, to take a little Walk about the Town; and in his Ramble he met with a very amiable young Creature upon the great Square, with whom he enter'd into a Conversation: After having parley'd with her some time, he offer'd to wait upon her to her Lodgings, and she was not so unsociable, but she accepted of his Proposal: My _Englishman_ thought himself a happy Mortal, and the Damsel appear'd so amiable in his Eyes, that he begg'd her Permission when he was at her Quarters to treat her with some Refreshments: When they had empty'd some Bottles, and the _Englishman_ was ready to take his Leave, he threw down a Guinea, and thought he paid full enough, but the Damsel demanded another: The Gentleman scrupled to give it, and insisted upon it with some Warmth, that a Guinea was sufficient in all Conscience to discharge the Expence he had put her to: No doubt he should have paid more Respect to such civil Company. The offended Damsel call'd the Landlady, who fell upon the poor _Englishman_ like a mad Woman: These Two were join'd by a Third Fury, who all together pummell'd the _Englishman_ soundly, tore his Cravat, and turn'd him out of Doors without so much as giving him his Perriwig: To complete his Misfortune, it rain'd as hard as it could pour, and the Night was so dark, that he could not see which way to steer his Course: He knew not who to ask for; and besides, he had forgot both the Inn, and the Name of the Street where we lodg'd: At last, being quite weary of running up and down the Streets so long, he took it into his Head to knock at every Door, from whence he met with no Return but hard Names: While he was rapping at one Door, he was surpriz'd by the Patroll, who carry'd him to the Watch-house: It was well for him that the Officer upon Guard was not an ill-natur'd Man, for he had the Patience to hear him give a very confus'd Description of the Inn, of which he had absolutely forgot the Name; and upon his saying that there were several other Inns in the same Street where his was, they guess'd pretty near where-abouts it was: Then the Officer lent him a Cloak, and having given him a Watchman to go along with him, they thundred at the Doors of several Inns, which not being the Inn that they wanted, there would certainly have been some Uproar, if it had not been for the Watchman that the _Englishman_ had to attend him: At last, as they were still wandring about in quest of the Inn which neither of them knew any thing of, the _Englishman_'s Lacquey, who was seeking his Master, met him, and carried him to his Quarters: You must know, that this Adventure made it a very disagreeable Night to me; for being extremely tired, I went to Bed as soon as I had supp'd, and the _Englishman_ being to lie in my Chamber, his Lacquey, who staid up there for him, disturb'd me sadly; for when he saw 'twas late, and that his Master was not return'd, he came every now-and-then to my Bed-side, and wak'd me to know what he should do; so that, to get rid of him, I advis'd him at last to turn out, and look for him. As soon as they came into the Room, I was forc'd to undergo the Penance of hearing the whole Story of his Adventure: The Lacquey was in a terrible Wrath with the honest People that had insulted his Master, and he propos'd to go out that Moment, and break open the Doors, and turn the House out of the Windows; but the Master having more Wit in his Anger, thought it best to bear his Disgrace with Patience, and to rest his Bones after so much Fatigue.
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We set out next Day for _Aix la Chapelle_; but the Count _de L----_ whom I thought to have found there, was at that time in the _Palatinate_, and therefore having nothing to do at _Aix_, I took Leave of my _Englishman_, and proceeded in my Journey towards _Cologne_: As soon as I came thither, I fell ill of a Fever, nevertheless I push'd on, and was preparing to go up the _Rhine_, but when I came to ANDERNACH, a little Town in the Dominions of _Cologne_, I found myself so ill, that I was absolutely oblig'd to stop: Mean time my Fever prov'd a continual one, and I was in a Place where I could not expect much Relief: The Mistress of the House where I was told me, that there was an able Physician some Leagues from _Andernach_, upon which I jogg'd on thither as well as I could, and in a Fortnight's time my Fever left me: Some Days after this I propos'd going towards _Mentz_, but when I came to _Coblentz_, I found myself worse than ever, and not being willing to change my Doctor, I return'd down the _Rhine_, and went to spend another Fortnight with the Man that had cur'd me before: Nevertheless, my Distemper grew worse, and even affected my Mind so much, that I imagin'd I should never be cur'd where I was: I had withal conceiv'd such a mortal Aversion to my Doctor, that I could no longer bear the Sight of him; and fancy'd that a Physician of _Cologne_, whom I knew, was the only Man that could cure me, for which Reason I was wonderfully impatient to go to _Cologne_; and notwithstanding all the Arguments of my Doctor to convince me that in the Condition which I was then in it would be Death for me to undertake a Voyage, yet I embark'd in a Vessel, and went down the _Rhine_: When I arriv'd at _Cologne_, I put myself with Confidence under the Care of the Physician of whom I had such an Opinion, and after having taken his Drugs about Two Days, whether it was owing to their Virtue, or to the Force of my Imagination, the Fever visibly diminish'd, and at last quite left me.
When I was perfectly recover'd, I went up the _Rhine_ again to _Mentz_, where I hop'd to have found my Cousins; but I was told, that they were at their Estate in _Franconia_: This unlucky Absence of theirs perplex'd me very much, and what to do now I could not tell: I chose to go to _Zell_, where my Brother liv'd, and by good Luck I met with a Coach that was going to _Hanover_: From _Hanover_ I went to _Zell_, where I heard that my Brother was at _Berlin_, and I resolv'd to advance that way; but lest I might be known, instead of going to the Neighbourhood of _Berlin_, I repair'd to _Leipsic_, from whence I wrote to my Agent to know how Things went, and if there were any Hopes of settling my Affairs: He sent me Answer, that there was no Probability of it as long as my Estate remain'd under a Sequestration; that indeed a Loan of Money would enable me to obtain a Replevy by compounding with my Creditors; but that he did not see how it was possible to borrow any Money, unless _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whom my Estate was entail'd, would consent to it: He concluded with telling me, that he knew of no other Method to get me out of this Difficulty, than to obtain an Order from the King of _Prussia_. I knew as well as he, that such an Order was the most expeditious Method to bring me out of Trouble; but how could I obtain it, when I was not permitted so much as to appear at Court? However, I thought it my Duty to leave no Stone unturn'd this Bout for obtaining such Permission, tho' I had been deny'd it several times. I resolv'd to implore the Protection of the Prince of _Anhalt-Dessau_, who had always given me Proofs of his Kindness, as had also the Princesses his Sisters.
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