Part 18

We lodg'd at the Post-house, where we found much better Accommodation than we had yet met with any where in _Spain_: But when we came to pay, behold another new Scene! for my Part, I pay'd my Share without grumbling, because I always observ'd, that make never so many Words it must come to that at last: Therefore, after having given what they told me was my Part of the Reckoning, I stay'd but a little while in my Chamber, to see if I had left nothing behind me, when all on a sudden I heard a great Noise in the Yard, upon which putting my Head out of the Window, I was very much astonish'd to see my Baron pulling the Coifs of the Landlady and Three or Four Maid-Servants, who were pommelling him to some Tune. I ran down Stairs ready to break my Neck, in order to rescue him out of the Clutches of those Termagants, and 'twas well I did, for the Landlady had snatch'd up a great Kitchen-Knife, with which she was going to run at him when I parted them, and with some Money the Landlady was pacify'd: What gave Occasion to the Quarrel was the Baron's Refusal to pay what was demanded of him, and his pretending to go away without leaving any Money: The Landlady, who was not to be jested with, had seiz'd him by the Collar, and he, in order to get rid of her, gave her a Slap in the Face; and the Landlady insisted absolutely upon Satisfaction for the Affront she had receiv'd; but at last, after a great deal of Clamour, they let us go.

At _Vittoria_ we quitted our Chaise and took Horses, because of the bad Roads we were to go thro' to _Bilbao_, in a Country abounding with Hills and Woods, which are the Shelter of Robbers: We alighted at a Cabaret, which was a lonely House in the midst of a Wood, and were quickly surrounded by 7 or 8 arm'd Men, who really had the Appearance of Ruffians: They ask'd us if we were Officers, and if we had no others in our Company: I had Presence of Mind enough to tell them, that we had left a Company of Horsemen just behind, whom we expected every Minute at that same Cabaret, and accordingly I order'd the proper Quantity of Hay to be got ready for the Horses: I know not whether this News frighten'd them; however, they soon left us, and rode farther into the Wood: We presently remounted our Horses, and proceeded on our Journey: About a League from the Cabaret we came to one of the highest Mountains that I had ever seen in my Life: As it was very steep, winding Roads were cut out to ascend it, wide enough for Two laden Mules to go abreast. At the Foot of this Hill was a charming Valley, which, after having travell'd Three or Four Leagues in it, carry'd us to _Bilbao_: This Valley is water'd by a River, the Banks of which are lin'd with Vines and several other Sorts of Trees: All this Country is extremely populous, so that one can't go 200 Paces without coming to a House: Here is also a prodigious Number of Forges, and they cry up their Iron for the best in all _Spain_.

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BILBAO is the Capital of _Biscay_, and the prettiest Town that I saw in _Spain_: Its Walks especially are very beautiful: This City carries on a great Trade in Wool with _Holland_, _England_ and _France_, and there are commonly in its Harbour several Ships of these Three Nations. It was formerly a free Port, which tended very much to the flourishing of its Trade; but _Philip_ V. suppress'd that Franchise, and establish'd a Custom-house, which occasion'd a very great Disturbance. The Country-People, who were those that signaliz'd themselves most for the Preservation of their Privileges, took Arms, and engag'd several of the Citizens to join them: These Rebels committed a Thousand Outrages, kill'd several People, and set Fire to the Houses of such as they suspected had any Concern in the Establishment of the Custom-house: However, the Insurrection was quickly suppress'd, the Authors of the Tumult were seiz'd, and several of the most mutinous were hang'd, which Examples of Justice had an Effect upon the Rabble; but, however, they were dealt with very gently, for this Tumult gave the Government a fair Handle to have depriv'd them of a great many most extraordinary Privileges, and such too, as were in some respect incompatible with the Good of the Public: For Instance, A Native of _Biscay_ cannot be sentenc'd to Death for any Crime whatsoever except High-Treason and Heresy; all their other Crimes, how enormous soever, being only punishable by Imprisonment or the Galleys. _Catalonia_ formerly enjoy'd the same Privileges, till it was depriv'd of them by _Philip_ V. when he reduc'd that Province.

Near _Bilbao_ on a very high Mountain is a miraculous Chapel, which has been mightily inrich'd by the frequent Pilgrimages that have been made to it for a long time past: But of every thing that I saw in it, nothing struck me more than the High Altar: 'Tis only of Wood indeed, without Painting or Gilding, but the Workmanship of it is surprizing, and it may be look'd upon as Art's Master-piece; I have been told, that he, who made this curious Piece of Work, was accus'd of Judaism, and burnt for it, some time after he had finish'd it: But, in good Truth, the Inquisition ought to have pardon'd him, purely for his Ingenuity.

I stay'd longer at _Bilbao_ than I expected: I was every Day in Hopes of finding some Vessel that was going to _Holland_; but at last being tir'd with waiting, I went on board a Merchant-Ship of _Bilbao_ that was bound for _London_, by which means I had a Sight of _England_ sooner than I expected: We had so fair a Wind during the whole Passage, that the Sixth Day after we set Sail, I found myself actually in LONDON[29].

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All the Places we pass'd by in the Way to this famous City form a Prospect beyond any thing whatsoever: Nothing can compare with the beautiful Scene in the Channel, to see the Multitude of Ships continually going up and down on one Side or the other: The noble Shores of the _Thames_, cover'd with magnificent Houses and beautiful Gardens, give a grand Idea of the Riches of _England_: I was pleas'd to see the noble Foundery of Cannon, Bombs and Bullets, and the Dock for the King's Ships, whereof I saw several lying at Anchor, which were all stately Vessels, and worthy of so wealthy a Nation as the _English_. I was above all surpriz'd at the Bulk of one of those Men of War, which they told me was that the Admiral goes on board of when _England_ sends him out to Sea. On the left Side of the _Thames_ also, before one comes to _London_, we see a magnificent Building for the Invalid Sailors: And near this Hospital lie the King's Yatchs, which serve to carry his Majesty and his Court over to _Holland_, when he repairs to his _German_ Dominions: The King's Yatch is very large, and richly carv'd and gilt: From this Place to _London-Bridge_ is nothing to be seen but Ships and Boats continually coming and going, and both Sides of the River are lin'd with Ships at Anchor, which forms a magnificent Shew: I fancy that 'tis impossible for a Foreigner to behold the continual Motion upon this River without Amazement: I shot the famous Bridge of _London_, which, considering the Length of it, and the Tides of Flood and Ebb, to which it is expos'd, ought really to be reckon'd one of the principal Bridges of the World: The Breadth of it is by no means answerable to the Length, and what renders it still narrower is, the Houses and Shops built upon it, which are none of the best, and yield a bad Prospect.

I went ashore near _Whitehall_, which was formerly a magnificent Palace, and the Residence of the Kings of _England_, but had the Misfortune to be consum'd by Fire in the Reign of _William_ III. and _Mary_: What remains of all this Palace is only one great Pavilion of very fine Architecture, which was formerly a Banquetting-house, and is now a Chapel. 'Twas at _Whitehall_ that the unfortunate _Charles_ I. was beheaded, and in the Remains of this Palace the Window is still to be seen, thro' which that Prince pass'd to the Scaffold, that was erected over-against it.

The Palace of _Whitehall_ faces _St. James_'s Park, which is the same to _London_ as the _Thuilleries_ are to _Paris_, tho' the former is much more frequented than the latter; but that which takes off very much from the Pleasure of the Walks is, the Promiscuousness of the Company, Livery-Servants and the Mobility being suffer'd to walk here as well as Persons of Distinction: In the middle of this Park is a spacious noble Canal, which is a very great Ornament to it: The Walks are kept in good Order, and especially that call'd the _Mall_, which is the longest of all: On the Right Hand of this Walk going from _Whitehall_ stands _St. James_'s Palace, which is now the ordinary Residence of the Monarchs of _England_: 'Tis a very ancient Building, which was formerly a Convent, and has still very much the Appearance of one; so that, were it not for the Guards about it, a Stranger would hardly imagine it to be the Palace of a Sovereign Prince: There are Two Entrances to it, one on _St. James_'s Side, and the other towards _Whitehall_, and at each there attends a Company of the Foot-Guards with a Pair of Colours, and of these there are Two that always stand Centry with their Swords drawn. The King of _Great Britain_'s Guard is the sprucest that I ever saw: They are all of a proper Size, but not Soldiers for mere Shew, as they are every where else, those who are admitted being oblig'd to bring Certificates of their Service: They are distinguish'd by the Terms of Life-Guards, the Grenadier-Guards, the Halberdiers and the Foot-Guards: The Life-Guards wear scarlet Cloth lac'd with Gold at all the Seams, and fac'd with blue: They are always booted when they are upon Guard, and dare not be seen without their Boots till they are reliev'd. The Habit of the Horse-Grenadiers is like that of the Life-Guards, but they wear Caps of Sky-blue Cloth, which have the Order of the Garter embroider'd on the Front with Gold and Silver. The Habit of the Halberdiers is somewhat uncommon: They are dress'd after the antique manner in scarlet, with a Lace in the King's Livery, which is of blue Velvet with a broad Gold Lace in the middle; and they wear Caps of black Velvet, adorn'd with white Feathers: The Foot-Guards have red Cloaths with blue Facings: This, _Madame_, was what I observ'd when I made my Entrance into _London_.

I steer'd my Course to _St. Anne_'s Quarter, where I had a Direction to some honest _French_ Refugees: After I had rested a few Days, I took some Measures to make my Appearance at Court, but without Success: The King and his _German_ Court had been so prejudic'd against me by _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, that 'twas impossible for me to obtain an Audience of his Majesty. The Princess of _Wales_ was concern'd at my Situation, and so good as to make me a Present, but the _Germans_ who were at Court were, like their Master, shy of me, so that I was fain to content myself with keeping no Company but the _English_, of whom I met with several that I had seen in _France_, and with whom I renew'd my Acquaintance: They us'd me with all the Civility imaginable, and took Care to carry me to the several Quarters of _London_, where there was any thing worth seeing: They first shew'd me _St. Paul_'s Cathedral, which, next to _St. Peter_'s at _Rome_, is the biggest and the most magnificent Church in _Europe_: It was begun after the great Fire of _London_, in the Reign of _Charles_ II. and not finish'd till the Reign of Queen _Anne_: The Outside of the Structure is as magnificent as the Inside: The first thing that presents itself is the Statue of Queen _Anne_ on the right Side of the West-Entrance, which is the Front: She is represented standing upright, as big as the Life, dress'd in the Royal Robes, with a Sceptre in one Hand, and a Globe in the other: Both the Statue and the Pedestal on which it is plac'd are of Marble: But I did not think this Monument answerable to what might have been expected from a Nation so famous as the _English_ for their elegant Taste in the Arts and Sciences: Nor did I judge more favourably of some other Pieces of Sculpture in the Inside of _St. Paul_'s Church, which did not seem to be the Performances of Masters. I thought the Choir by much too small, considering the Bigness of the Nave: The Choir is separated from the Body of the Church by a Balustrade of Wood, resembling a Gate, over which the Organs are plac'd to a disadvantagious View, owing, as I take it, to the Chasms on the Sides: Opposite to the Entrance of the Choir is the Communion-table, fenc'd round with a Balustrade and a Form whereon the Communicants kneel: At the Right Hand of this Table is the Seat of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is rais'd some Steps above the Ground; and over it is a Canopy, like to those of the Catholic Bishops: All round the Choir are little Pews or Stalls like the Boxes in a Play-house, and there the Magistrates usually sit, when they come to the Church in a Body: The Preacher's Pulpit, which is plac'd in the middle of the Choir, is a plain Piece of Work of Wallnut-Wood, and of an octogon Figure, so contriv'd, that one does not see the Stairs by which the Preacher goes up to it: On the Right Hand of the Door of the Choir is a Canopy, and a Seat like to that of the Archbishop of _Canterbury_, which is for the Bishop of _London_.

From _St. Paul_'s I went to see _Westminster_-Abbey, which being in a Part of the Town at a good Distance from _St. Paul_'s, oblig'd me to take a Hackney-Coach: These Vehicles are very common at _London_; but being made without a Spring, are intolerably uneasy: However, they are of excellent Service to rid a great deal of Ground in a little time; for the Horses, which are very good, gallop for most Part, but the Pavement they run upon being the worst in _Europe_, it gives terrible Shocks to those who make Use of this Equipage, as I experienc'd in my Jaunt to the Abbey of _Westminster_. This is the Church in which the Kings of _England_ are consecrated and interr'd: 'Tis a very ancient Pile, without any other Beauty but its Bulk: There is a good Number of Chapels within it, in which are the Tombs of several Kings, Queens, and even of private Persons; but of these there are few worthy of Remark: 'Twas in this Church I saw that call'd _St. Edward_'s Chair, which is of Wood, without any Ornament; and they say, it is the Chair which that Saint made Use of: The Kings are seated in it at the time of their Coronation: On one Side of this Chair is a Press, wherein is preserv'd in Waxwork the Effigy of General _Monk_, who, after the Death of _Cromwell_, restor'd _Charles_ II. to the Throne of his Ancestors. In a Chapel hard by I was shewn another Statue in Waxwork, which represents _Charles_ II. himself as big as the Life, dress'd in his Robes as Knight of the Garter: In the same Chapel I also saw the Waxwork Statue of the Duchess of _Richmond_, in her Habit as Duchess.

In this Church I met With an _English_ Gentleman, an old Friend of mine, who carry'd me to the Parliament-house, where the King was expected that very Day, to put an End to that Session: And really I had not been long there before I saw the King enter in his royal Robes, and the Crown upon his Head: As I was inform'd his Stay there would be short, I went out, and plac'd myself in his Passage, that I might see his Retinue: I saw him go into his Coach, drawn by Eight Horses, attended by his Horse-Guards, and preceded by another Coach, in which sate the principal Officers of the Crown: The King of _England_ never rides with this Attendance, but when he goes to meet his Parliament; for he is generally carry'd in a Sedan, with Six Footmen walking before, and Six Halberdiers, or Yeomen of the Guard, by the Sides of the Chair; while the Officers that are in Waiting commonly follow his Majesty in Coaches, drawn each by a Pair of Horses: The Prince and Princess of _Wales_ are attended, when they go out, much in the same manner: I observ'd a Custom among the Livery-Servants of the King and their Royal Highnesses, which I saw at no other Court, _viz_. That when they are in Waiting, they wear, instead of a Hat, plain Caps of black Velvet, made like the Caps of Running-Footmen.

After I had seen the King pass by, I went and din'd with my Lord ----, whose Brother I had seen in _Spain_: There I spent the Afternoon, and at Night he carry'd me to the Opera, where I was highly pleas'd, not only with the Performers, who were the best Voices in _Europe_, but with the Orchestre, which could not be finer nor better fill'd; yet, for all that, I don't think it comes up to the Opera at _Paris_; for this at _London_ is quite destitute of Dances, or at least when there are any, they are so ill executed, that they are intolerable to Persons of a nice Taste: The Stage-Dresses are indeed much richer than those of the _French_ Actors; but then they are not of that clever Fancy, which the _French_ alone may boast to be their peculiar Perfection: The _English_ Stage has another Defect, and that is, the extreme Want of Performers, for they know nothing of Chorus's, and when the Scene demands the Appearance of any Retinue, 'tis generally compos'd of People that they pick up where they can get them; for which Reason they all look very silly and confus'd: The Place where the Boxes are, is in a manner round: 'Tis small, but very lofty, and I thought the Seats very well laid out: The whole Company sits down, even those in the Pit, in which there are Benches that form an Amphitheatre, which is not very high, but almost of a circular Figure, so that every body faces the Stage: This Place is so well lighted with Wax-Candles, that it dazzles one's Eyes, which is a very great Diminution to the Lustre of the Theatre: The King, who was at the Opera when I was there, sate in a Box on the Right Side of the Stage, without any Distinction, and convers'd all the time with Three Ladies that were in his Box.

Some Days after this I went to the _English_ Comedy: I shall say nothing of the Play that was acted there, because, as I did not understand the Language, I could only judge of it from the Applause that was given to it: The Actors seem'd to be excellent, at least, if I might judge, by their Gesture and Carriage, so that it would be a difficult Matter to find any that appear to better Advantage.

The little Prospect I had of obtaining any Employment at the Court of _England_, and the visible Decay of my Finances, forc'd me to think of departing very soon: Therefore, without Loss of Time, I made my Tours about the City of _London_, in order to see what was most worthy of Remark: I found very fine Courts, and more Squares than in any other City I ever saw, which would have been more magnificent, if they had not been spoil'd by inclosing them with wooden Pales, to convert the Ground within into Gardens. The Houses are commonly very small, most of them have no Courts before them, and there are few that have Gardens: But I must except a good many Hotels or Palaces, that are very magnificent; such as the Duke of _Montague_'s House, which is built in an exquisite Taste: The Court before it is very large and beautiful; and the Garden perfectly answers the Beauty of the Building: The Stair-case is worth seeing by those of the nicest Skill: The Ceiling represents _Phaeton_ asking Leave of the Sun to drive his Chariot, and the Fall of _Phaeton_ is describ'd at the Entrance of the Saloon, just at the Top of the Stair-case: The Apartments on each Side of this Saloon are also very beautiful, and most richly furnish'd.

I went afterwards to see my Lord _Marlborough_'s House, which is very magnificent, and full of Pictures, done by the most able Hands, whereof the greatest Number was by _Vandyke_: After having in like manner taken a View of several other great Houses, of which I don't undertake to give a Description, I was shew'd a Column, which in my Opinion far surpass'd the famous Pillar of _Trajan_: 'Twas the _Monument_, erected in Memory of the terrible Fire that happen'd at _London_, soon after the Restoration of _Charles_ II. to the Throne of _England_: 'Tis pity but this Pillar had more Room to stand in, it being pent up in a pretty close Nook, which is the very Spot where the Fire first broke out: There's a _Latin_ Inscription upon it, shewing all the Circumstances of that sad Misfortune: In the Pedestal of this Monument is a Door, that opens to Stairs cut out in the Pillar, by which People ascend to the Top of it; and in all _London_ there is not a Place from whence there is a more extensive Prospect of the Country, except it be the Cupola of _St. Paul_'s.

Not far from this Monument is that Structure which is call'd the _Royal Exchange_, where the Merchants meet every Week-day from Noon till Two o'clock: 'Tis a very large quadrangular Building, and its principal Front is very magnificent: The Square, where the Merchants meet, is encompass'd with a fine Gallery, supported by great Arches of beautiful Architecture: In the middle of it is a Marble Statue of _Charles_ II. who is represented standing upright, and dress'd in his Royal Robes: In certain Niches over the Arches there are the Statues of the Kings and Queens of _England_, which are all of Stone, and so imperfectly done, that they are a Blemish, rather than an Ornament to the Exchange: Near this Building is another Statue of _Charles_ II. on Horseback, which is a Monument of white Marble, but so ill perform'd, that I believe it would have been better if it had never been put up: The Equestrian Statue of _Charles_ I. erected betwixt the _Haymarket_ and _Whitehall_, which is all of Brass, is much better executed: Good Judges particularly admire the Horse, which is one of the boldest Pieces that is to be seen, and was cast by the same Workman that cast the Horse of _Henry_ IV. at _Paris_; but the Statue of the King was done by another Hand: _Cromwell_, who had no Respect for the Blood of his Sovereign, did not care to have his Statue preserv'd, but caus'd it to be pull'd down, and set to Sale: A Founder, that was a zealous Royalist, purchas'd it, on Pretence that he would melt it down, but, as soon as he had it brought Home, he caus'd it to be bury'd under Ground, where it remain'd till _Charles_ II. was restor'd to the Throne, and then he made a Present of it to that Prince, who caus'd it to be erected on that Pedestal of white Marble which we now see.