Part 17
The King's Apartment consists in the first Place of a Guard-Room, which is neither spacious nor lightsome: On the Left Side of this Room is a very long Row of Chambers, very narrow and low, without a Ceiling, or any other Ornaments, but very rich Tapistry: At the End of this Row there are Three Apartments, built by Order of the Princess of _Ursins_: The first of these is a large Saloon, very high and well proportion'd, inlaid and wainscotted, and in the Compartments are to be seen the Pictures of several Kings, Queens and Princes of _Spain_, painted by the ablest Masters: The second Piece is an Octogon, contriv'd in that Form for the Sake of Four little Offices in the Angles of the Square: From this Apartment is a Passage to the King's Chamber, which is very large, and intirely furnish'd with crimson Damask, adorn'd with Gold Lace and Fringe, tho' the Tapistry can scarce be seen, 'tis so much hid by excellent Pictures and noble Pier-Glasses.
The Queen's Apartment is not so large, nor near so fine as the King's: Her Majesty has a Guard-Room separate from the King's: Their Majesties may walk on the same Floor to the Chapel, which is not very large, but richly adorn'd: The Gallery is no higher than the Pavement of the Chapel, which is of very fine Marble: The Windows of the Chapel are all of Glass: None but the _Infantes_ fit in the Gallery, and the Grandees of _Spain_ are seated upon Forms, that are plac'd on each Side from the Gallery to the Altar: I am apt to think, that the Cardinals are allow'd a Great Chair and a Reading Desk in the Chapel, even tho' his Majesty be present: At least, I saw, that the Cardinal _Borgia_ had that Privilege.
In this Palace the King us'd to pass the Winter till Mid-Lent, and then his Majesty went to the Palace of _Retiro_, which stands near the Gate of _Alcala_: 'Tis a vast large Building, but without Ornament or Architecture, and looks more like a Convent than a Royal House: The Inside too is perfectly answerable to the Outside: The Rooms are very small, the Tapistries and Paintings very rich, but the _Spaniards_ are so negligent, that they suffer the Rats to gnaw the fine Hangings, and take no Care to repair them: There are noble Pictures also in another Room of this same Palace, which represent the principal Actions of the Duke of _Feria_, several of which Pictures, more is the Pity, have been cut into Quarters to enlarge the Entry of the Room.
The Gardens of this Palace are inconsiderable. _Philip_ V. it seems intended once to have embellish'd them, and had actually caus'd the Works for it to be begun, but the same have since been discontinued: There's nothing in them remarkable besides a Statue of Brass, which is plac'd in the middle of a little Flower-Garden wall'd in: 'Tis a Statue of _Philip_ II. on Horseback, and one of the boldest Pieces of Sculpture in _Europe_: The Horse is represented curvetting with his whole Body, resting upon only one of his Haunches: The rest of the Gardens is nothing but a great Inclosure with irregular Walks: I saw a very fine Piece of Water there: The King's Mall is worth seeing, as is also the Menagery, which is full of very uncommon Animals.
The King and the Queen, whether they are at _Madrid_ or at _Retiro_, always live in the same manner: They were not the most early Risers, and when the Levee was notify'd, their Majesties did not rise for all that immediately; but the King first had a Couple of new-laid Eggs, and then some Chocolate for his Breakfast: The Queen only drank some Chocolate: After this their Majesties sent for the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, with whom they talk'd about Business, after which they arose: Then Father _Daubanton_ came in, and stay'd with the King a full Hour: His Majesty went afterwards to Mass, and when Chapel was over, the King gave Audience to his Subjects, or else went to the Council of _Castile_: Sometimes he employ'd himself in his Closet till Dinner, when he sat down quite in private, with none but the Queen: After Dinner their Majesties went out together a Hunting, and return'd somewhat late: As soon as they were come back, they were serv'd with a Collation, which consisted of cold Partridge, of the like to which Collations _M. de Grimaldo_ was admitted: When these were ended, the King gave Audience in his Closet to the Foreign Ministers, or other Persons of Distinction: During these Audiences the King was commonly standing and bare-headed, and the Queen was all the while behind a Screen, near enough for her to hear every Word that was said: After these Audiences, when the King had a Mind to do Business, he sent for the Marquis _de Castelar_ or _Campoflorido_, who stay'd but Half an Hour with him at most. Then his Majesty spent the rest of the Evening with the Infants, the Ladies of the Bedchamber and their Associates; and sometimes there was Play till Supper was ready, at which _M. de Scotti_, the Minister of _Parma_, and a very great Favourite, was generally present, to converse with their Majesties: As soon as they arose from Table they went to Bed.
The Pleasures of the Court when in the Country, were little, if any thing, more gay than those at _Madrid_: I saw the Court more than once at _Aranjuez_, where I took Notice, that they spent their Afternoons either in Hunting or taking the Air in the Gardens of the Palace: In these Airings their Majesties shot Crows with small Hand-Guns, which would kill at a good Distance: The Queen generally hit her Mark better than the King. While their Majesties hunted on one Side of the Castle, the Prince of _Asturias_, accompany'd by the _Infante_ his Brother and his Governors, hunted on the other Side, and did not return till Night.
The King spent the _Easter_-Holidays while I was here at the Palace of _Retiro_: This gave me an Opportunity of seeing the Processions of the Holy Week, which were made upon every _Good-Friday_, to the Palace of _Retiro_, where the King and the Queen, the Prince of _Asturias_ and the Infants saw them pass: I will frankly confess to you, that I never saw any thing so pitiful, not to say scandalous, as this sort of Processions: It seem'd as if they had been resolv'd to turn the most sacred thing in the World into Ridicule: The Subject of the Procession was no less than the Sufferings and Death of our Saviour; but the whole was represented in so burlesque a manner, that really I am surpriz'd, why a Court of Inquisition, which very often sentences People to be burnt for imaginary Crimes, does not severely punish those that are Partakers at such Festivals: In the Procession which I saw, our Saviour was represented as big as the Life in various Attitudes: In one Part of it he was exhibited on Mount _Calvary_, clad in a Night-Gown of purple Taffeta, praying to his Father to remove the Cup from him, which was reach'd forth to him by a little Angel, that was fasten'd only by a Wire, that it might look as if it hover'd in the Air: Afterwards other Persons came with the Image of our Saviour bound to a Cross, and as big as the Life, having on his Head not a Crown of Thorns, but a long natural Perriwig well powder'd, and adorn'd with a Knot of colour'd Ribbons: In short, every Circumstance of the Suffering and Death of Jesus Christ was represented to the Life, and in such Postures as were more comical some than others: Every Image was guarded by 4, 6, or 8 Men, arm'd _cap-a-pie_, and bearing Halberds in their Hands: Between every Image march'd the Clergy, and the several Orders of Friars: At the Head of the Procession there walk'd Men who were cover'd all over with black Cloth, so that 'twas not possible to see so much as their Faces, there being only a little Hole made in the Garment for them to see and breathe thro', tho' they also made Use of it to blow a sort of Horns, very much like those of Sow-Gelders. They had Hats upon their Heads, with high Crowns like Sugar-Loaves: This sable Company was follow'd by other Men, and by little Boys, stark naked from the Head to the Waist, whose Bodies were twin'd about with Straw-Bands, and their Arms tied to a Piece of Wood, which oblig'd them to hold them extended, as if they had been fasten'd to a Cross: There was also a Company of Flagellant Friars, but they did not presume to come in Sight of the King, and therefore they stay'd and join'd in the Procession, as it came back from _Buen Retiro_.
There were Processions also in the same Taste during the _Easter_ Week, when the Holy Sacrament was carry'd to the Sick: The Streets and Balconies were on this Occasion hung with Tapistry: The Sacrament, which was carry'd under a Canopy, was preceded by a great Number of Priests and Friars, who had all Wax-Tapers in their Hands: There was also a numerous Symphony, and a great many Dancers, in Masks of several Sorts, leaping and playing Gambols with Castanets snapping in their Hands: And in this manner they danc'd before the Holy Sacrament, and continued it even in the Church, till such time as the Benediction was pronounc'd.
I speak to you of these Ceremonies, _Madame_, as one that saw them with my own Eyes: I had a Description given to me of them before, which was pretty much like it, but I took all that had been told me as pure Calumny, invented to run down the Worship which the Church of _Rome_ pays to the greatest of our Mysteries; the rather, because they, that had given me the Account of it, were _Calvinists_: I was willing to be an Eye-Witness myself of every thing which I had been assur'd was observ'd in the Ceremonial of the _Spanish_ Church: For this Reason I attended all these Processions with the greatest Eagerness that could be, and was really scandaliz'd to see that verify'd which I had only imagin'd to be the Inventions of the Enemies of the Church of _Rome_.
'Tis such unpleasant Walking in the Streets of _Madrid_, that I question whether that might not make me the more out of Temper with those Superstitions: For this, tho' a very fine City, and adorn'd with Squares, in which there are noble Fountains, and tho' it has Streets moreover which are very spacious, strait and lightsome, 'tis nevertheless so very nasty, that there are few Towns like it, which are ever so little govern'd: From all the Houses they throw out a great deal of Ordure, which, they pretend, wastes away in one Night's Time, the Air of _Madrid_ is so corrosive: Yet I experienc'd the contrary, and was terribly annoy'd with the Stench of it: But for all this, the daily Nuisance of the Streets of _Madrid_ is nothing in comparison of what one is forc'd to suffer upon the Days of Solemnity; for on such Days the Streets are generally clean'd, and then all the Soil being put in Motion, 'tis hardly possible to bear it, especially in a dry Season, when the whole being reduc'd into fine Dust, the very Air we breathe is tainted with it, and it penetrates every thing that one eats: I heard an _Italian_ Physician say, he was sure that 'twas scarce possible for a Foreigner, be he ever so circumspect and retir'd, to spend Three or Four Years at _Madrid_ without being attack'd with a Distemper which we look upon with Horror; but the _Spaniards_ are not at all frighten'd at it, for they say, that in many Families 'tis hereditary. The Doctor said, that every thing they breath'd, eat or drank, was poison'd by the Nastiness of _Madrid_.
What can be the Reason why the People are so very slovenly I can't imagine, for there are considerable Sums distributed every Year to keep the Streets clean: Perhaps it may be only owing to the Sloth of the _Spaniards_, for I don't know a Nation upon Earth that is so much in Love with Idleness; and I am certain, that if they inhabited a Soil not so fruitful as their's is, they would soon die with Hunger: In the Winter they delight to spend their Time in basking in the Sun: In the Summer they sleep all Day long, or else drink Ice-Waters, and they reserve their Walks for the Night: The Country-People, who in all other Parts are so inur'd to Labour, are as idle in _Spain_ as the Town's-People: They can hardly be said to till the Ground, for they only scrape away the Surface of it, and then scatter their Seed: Yet 'tis surprizing, that every thing comes up here as well as in a Country that is better cultivated.
The _Spaniards_ being too indolent for Exercises that require any Labour, delight most of all in Walking, and in frequenting the Play-house, where they are sure of meeting with what is most diverting at _Madrid_: Yet I can assure you, there is nothing so lamentable as the _Spanish_ Representations, and the Place where they are exhibited is horrible: 'Tis very dark, and over the Benches which are plac'd in Form of an Amphitheatre, are the Boxes for the Ladies, who look thro' Grates. The Theatre is made after the manner of _Rome_, being a Row of Portico's, that are screen'd by Curtains, thro' which the Comedians enter upon the Stage: The whole is very indifferently lighted; but that which disgusted me more than any thing, was a Common-Sewer, of which I was sensible as soon as I enter'd the House, but could not presently discover where it was for Want of Light: It runs precisely under the middle of the Pit, and the Stench of it is intolerable. The Actors are very ill dress'd, and for the Generality very ill favour'd, or ill shap'd: The Actresses are more tolerable, but not much: The Plays are hardly better than those who perform them; yet the _Spaniards_ say, they are excellent Pieces. What most of all diverted me was their Dances between the Acts, than which it would be difficult to meet with any thing more ridiculous: Most of their Theatrical Performances are sacred Pieces, in which even the Mysteries of our Religion bear a Part: A Friend of mine actually assured me, that he saw the Holy Sacrament administer'd at it to a pretended sick Person, which, if true, I can't imagine how the Inquisition, that is so severe in other respects, can tolerate such Abuses.
Now I am speaking of the Inquisition, I was an Eye-Witness of the Severity of this Tribunal while I was in _Spain_: For not many Days after my Arrival at _Madrid_, I saw several Persons burnt who were convicted of Judaism: Among those poor unhappy Sufferers was a young Woman of about 18 or 20 Years of Age, the beautifullest that I saw in _Spain_: She went to her Execution with Joy imprinted on her Countenance, and dy'd with the Courage for which our Martyrs are so celebrated: Some time after this Execution the Inquisition made a great Search all over _Spain_: Above 40 Persons were taken up in one Night at _Madrid_, and among the rest one _Peralte_, a famous Physician, who seem'd to have been fated by his Star to die by the Inquisition: His Mother, who was their Prisoner when she was deliver'd of him, was burnt soon after her Lying-in: Young _Peralte_ was brought up in the Catholic Religion, but at 30 Years of Age he was accus'd, and convicted of Judaism: His Punishment for this time was only Three Years Imprisonment, but at length he was apprehended a second time, and after I left _Madrid_, I heard the poor Wretch was burnt there; in which the Prayers of his Mother were answer'd, for I was assur'd, that when this Woman mounted her Funeral Pile, she pray'd that her Son might one Day or other die the same Death: I was very glad that I was not at _Madrid_ at the time of this _Peralte_'s Execution, for I had some Knowledge of him, and tho' he was really a Bigot to Judaism, I thought him one of the civillest Men in the World.
I did not set out from _Madrid_ to join my Regiment, but went a quite different Way, in order to touch some Money which I did not know how to come at in _Spain_: And that I did not, was surely no Fault of mine, for I don't believe that ever any Courtier haunted Levees with so much Assiduity as I did, not only those of the King and Queen, but even the Father Confessor's Levee, whose Protection alone would have done my Business, if he would but have honour'd me with it: I was therefore every Day either in the King's Antichamber, or in the Reverend Father's, if not in both; and I follow'd the Court to all the Pleasure-houses about _Madrid_: I saw the Escurial, a stately Building, which _Philip_ II. caus'd to be erected in Memory of the Victory he gain'd over the _French_ near _St. Quentin_: 'Tis impossible to see a finer Structure than this is. _Philip_ II. intended at first to build only a Church and a Convent here, but afterwards he thought of having a Mansion here for himself, which is a perfect one of the kind: The Escurial is the Place where the Kings of _Spain_ are bury'd: The Vault in which their Bodies are deposited is a Master-piece of Architecture; every Place here shines with Gold and precious Stones.
_Philip_ V. was at this time building a Palace, now call'd _St. Ildephonso_, the Plan of which I thought was magnificent: The Situation of it was very advantageous, and it was to be furnish'd with noble Gardens.
The Pleasure-house which I most frequented while I was in _Spain_ is _Aranjuez_, situate Seven Leagues from _Madrid_, on the Banks of the _Tagus_, which runs round all its Gardens: The Neighbourhood of it is very magnificent: _Charles_ V. caus'd Avenues to be made to it, which are now in their full Beauty: 'Twas at _Aranjuez_ that I determin'd at last to take my Leave of his Majesty; for seeing there was no Possibility of getting any thing, I resolv'd to go to _Holland_, and from thence to _Germany_, in order to settle some Family Affairs: I thought once too I should not have had Leave to be gone, for the King did not seem inclinable to grant it: He was somewhat scrupulous upon this head, for fear I should change my Religion, till Father _Daubanton_, who was not so delicate in things of this Nature, said two Words to his Majesty, and then he consented to let me go: This was the only Obligation I ever receiv'd from that Reverend Father: When I took my Leave of the King, he order'd me to return as soon as possible, which I promis'd, and really design'd; but Fortune, which always thwarted my Undertakings, made me steer a quite contrary Course. Mr. _Stanhope_, who was always as generous to me as possible, was also very serviceable to me at my Departure, for he lent me 40 Pistoles for my Journey.
I set out from _Madrid_ in Company with a Nephew of _M. de Seissan_, who was going to see his Uncle at _Bilbao_: The Name of this young Gentleman was the Baron _D'V----_: It was not long before I had cause to repent of having taken such a Companion with me; for he was one of those young Officers who are always ready to clap their Hands on their Swords for the least thing in the World: He was moreover so hasty, or rather so stupid, that he never took time to hear what was said to him, for which Reason he very often imagin'd, that he was insulted when People had been at the Expence of paying him a Compliment: This, _Madame_, is a Part of the Character of the Spark with whom it was my Destiny to travel: He was so apt to enter into Conversation with every body he met upon the Road, that it had like to have cost us dear on the first Day of our setting out; for as we were travelling in the midst of a pretty thick sort of a Forest, I perceiv'd at a Distance Four Men well arm'd, advancing towards us in the main Road. As we could not avoid passing between them, I advis'd my Companion to be ready with his Pistols: Those Gentlemen seeing us well prepar'd, let us pass, but as we both took them for _Frenchmen_, the Baron _D'V----_ would needs stop our Chaise to enter into Discourse with them, and asked them who they were: They made Answer that they were _French_ Officers, who had fled their Country for an Affair of Honour: They asked in their Turn what News from _Madrid_; during which I observ'd that they were coming a little too near our Chaise, whereupon I broke off the Discourse, by ordering the Postilion to proceed with all the Haste possible, because we had Business: At the same time the pretended Officers doubled their Pace in order to keep up with us; but by good Luck for us we discovered from a little Eminence a Convoy of about 40 Mules, and several Persons on Horseback that were coming our Way: Our Pursuers no sooner perceiv'd them, but they turn'd about their Horses, and rode off with such Speed, as confirm'd me in my private Suspicion, that we had been talking with Highwaymen; which soon after appear'd to be past all Doubt by our meeting with several Alguasils or Messengers that were scouring the Country in quest of Four Men, who we could easily guess by the Description they gave of them must be the same that we had like to have been embroil'd with.
Upon the second Day's Journey my Companion and I had some Words together about paying our Quota's: As I was the Caterer, and in all my Life-time never car'd to pinch my Belly, the Baron thought that I was not frugal enough, and refus'd at first to pay his Shot. However, he comply'd at last, but, as the Expence always run in his Head, he never gave me one kind Look all the Way, and even affected not to speak to me: For my own Part, when I saw him in such a moody Disposition, I chose to be as silent as he, and since I could do nothing better, I fell quietly asleep, and ere I awak'd we had gone a good way: My Fellow-Traveller never open'd his Lips till we came to _Burgos_.
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BURGOS is the Capital of _Old Castile_, and was formerly the Seat of the Kings of _Spain_: It has nothing remarkable but a very great Square, surrounded with Houses of an exact Uniformity, supported by Pillars, which form a Gallery round the Square. The Cathedral Church is a magnificent Structure, but intirely in the _Gothic_ Taste.
Near _Burgos_ is a very numerous Abby of Nuns of Quality, who as well as all the Convents of _Spain_ have considerable Revenues: The Country from _Burgos_ to _Vittoria_ is finer and better cultivated than in _New Castile_, and the Villages seem more populous: I saw Peasants there so active to what the _Spaniards_ generally are, that I thought myself in another World.
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VITTORIA is a trading Town, situate in a fertile Plain, full of Villages: The Streets are very narrow, and the Houses, which are all of Timber, project in such a manner over the Streets, that opposite Neighbours may almost shake Hands from one Side of the Way to the other, which makes the Streets very darksome. This was the City, to which the Queen _Mary-Louisa_ of _Savoy_ retir'd with her Children and the Treasures of the Crown, when the Archduke _Charles_ the present Emperor, after the Battle of _Saragossa_ advanc'd towards _Madrid_, and thereby oblig'd King _Philip_ to quit _Spain_.