Part 14
The Duke Regent, for his Part, after having thus pacify'd some Persons to whom his Authority gave Umbrage, had made Provision also for the Establishment of some of his Daughters. For the One he had provided the Abbey of _Chelles_, upon the Resignation of _Madame de Villars_, who was the Abbess. The Second, who was call'd _Madamoiselle de Valois_, had been just marry'd to the Hereditary Prince of _Modena_, and set out with a Paraphernalia more grand than what is given to the Daughters of _France_. The same Honours were paid to her upon the Road, as are commonly paid to the Daughters of the King; and that there might be Substance answerable to all this Splendor, the Duke of _Modena_ had bargain'd for a very considerable Portion, payable in the Species of _Italy_, rather than be expos'd to all the Revolutions of the _French_ Coin; in which that Prince made a wise Bargain, for every Day was remarkable for one _Arret_ or other relating to the Species. Nevertheless, those _Arrets_ did not look as if they would be long in Force; at least, the Thing which they had principally in View, absolutely came to nothing. There being therefore no Gold nor Silver of which they could lower the Value, it was thought expedient to touch the only Species left, I mean the Bank Bills, which in their Turn were subject to various Revolutions, that were of the worse Consequence to those wretched Effect; because, as they had no intrinsic Value, they might very easily relapse into their original Nothing. They say, that the Disaster which befel these Bills, was owing to Mr. _Law_'s Enemies, who envy'd the Credit which they saw this Foreigner had with the Regent; and of this nothing was a greater Demonstration than the Difficulty they had to succeed in their Undertaking. But at length they brought their Designs to bear; and after having remonstrated several times, but always to no Purpose, that the Bills did a considerable Injury to Trade; that several Merchants were oblig'd to shut up their Shops, because 'twas impossible to trade without Money; that private People, whose Substance lay intirely in Annuities, being paid off in Bills, could not subsist long, since Tradesmen would not accept of those Bills for more than the Value express'd upon them: In fine, the Regent being quite wearied out with the continual Solicitations of these Remonstrants, yielded to their Importunity, and consented to the suppressing of the Bills. But as it was very evident that it would be impossible to annul them all at once, it was resolv'd to do it by Degrees: Therefore, on the 21st of _May_, there came out an _Arret_, which lower'd the Bills from _10 per Cent. per Month_, to one half of their Value. This _Arret_ occasion'd some Tumult; all _Paris_ was ready to rise in Arms, and so great was the Throng of People one pay to the Bank, that several were stifled in the Crowd, whose Bodies were carry'd by the mutinous Mob to the Court of the Royal Palace. Mr. _Law_, to whom they ow'd a Grudge for having given the Hint of so pernicious a Project, did not dare to shew his Head. In short, the Ferment seem'd to work so strong, that the Regent plainly perceiv'd 'twas impossible, at that Juncture, to inforce the _Arret_ that had been newly issued; and chose to have it revok'd, in hopes of regaining the Confidence of the Public. But it was intirely lost, every one deserted the Bank; and notwithstanding the Menaces given out, that the Species would be lower'd, People rather chose to keep their Money, which would be always worth something, than to incumber themselves with Bills, which, whenever the Prince took the Whim, would only be attended with the melancholy Reflection by the Possessors, that they were once well to pass. In Fact, notwithstanding the Revocation of the _Arret_, the Bills sunk considerably every Day. Then it was that the Term of _Realising_ became the favourite Word of the Time, that is to say, when the Generality of private Men, who had any Bills, endeavour'd to exchange them, not for Money, which at that Time seem'd to be bury'd again in the Earth, from whence its Original was dug, but for real Effects: Some bought Diamonds, others Plate, some Merchandize: In short, every wise Man got rid of his Paper; and even the Nobility turn'd Merchants: Particularly one of them, who was of the first Rank[27], had a considerable Warehouse stor'd with Coffee, Wax-Candles, Grocery-Wares, and the like Goods, to sell again. The Parliament took Cognisance of these Acquisitions, but his only Punishment was the Mortification he receiv'd from those Gentlemen; and he was left in Possession of the Grocery-Wares, Coffee, _&c._
At this very critical Time, when the Bills were reduc'd, did I arrive at _Paris_; which City was then like a Wood for harbouring Robbers and Murderers; and, in Fact, the Ease of carrying the Fortunes of a great many People in a Pocket-Book was a great Temptation to Thieves: Moreover, notwithstanding the Scarcity of Money, Luxury, Debauchery and Gaming were arriv'd at the highest Pitch, and young Deboshees were guilty of the most shocking Enormities to satisfy their Extravagance: To this Purpose I was told a Story, that about the End of _Lent_ 1721, the Count _de Horn_, a young Nobleman, related to the chief Families in _Europe_, was one of Three that basely murder'd a poor Wretch, who got his Livelihood by negociating Shares and Bills for other People: As this Man's Letter-Case seem'd to be full of Effects, that must amount to a considerable Sum, the Count appointed him to come to a Tavern in _St. Martin_'s Street, on Pretence of buying some Shares of him; when he came, he took him into a Back-Room, which he had bespoke for the Purpose; and just as he was opening his Letter-Case upon the Table, the Count and Two Comrades threw a Cloth over his Head, and then cruelly stabb'd him with Daggers: The unhappy Man made such a Noise while they were in the Act of murdering him, that it brought some body up Stairs, but they had taken Care to fasten the Chamber-Door in the Inside, so that 'twas impossible to enter it, and the Count and his Accomplices made their Escape out of a Window, that look'd into a little Street on one Side of the Tavern, from whence, tho' they were in the second Story, they got down very easily, by the Favour of some Beams, which were laid across the Street to support the Two Houses: The Count's Comrades thought of nothing less than flying their Country, but there was only one of them that was so fortunate as to get into foreign Parts, the other was apprehended about the Fish-Market, and carry'd before a Commissary. The Count, on his Part, instead of endeavouring to make his Escape, went and complain'd to a Commissary, of an Attempt that had been made to assassinate him: His wild Stare and his bloody Hand and Ruffles made the Commissary suspect there was something more than ordinary in this Complaint, and he desir'd that he would carry him to the Place where he said that he ran such a Risque of his Life; which he scrupling to do, the Commissary sent for the Archers to carry him thither by Force. The Count, before he set out, desir'd Leave to step aside, to ease himself from the Impression, which he pretended the Danger had made upon him; but, as it came out afterwards, it was only to drop the Letter-Case, of which he had robb'd the Stockjobber, into the Privy: This done, he set out with the Commissary, and the Truth of the Fact was soon discover'd; for the Vintner having caus'd the Room to be broke open, the Sight of the Corpse and the bloody Daggers were so many Evidences of the Count's Guilt, who was thereupon committed Prisoner to the _Chatelet_, try'd the following Week, and condemn'd, together with his Accomplice, to be broke alive upon the Wheel in the Place _de Greve_; which Sentence was executed accordingly on the _Tuesday_ in the Holy Week. While he was yet a Prisoner, all the foreign Nobility at _Paris_ labour'd hard to obtain his Pardon, or at least that he might only be beheaded; to the end that the Infamy of his Punishment on the Wheel might not be cast as a Reproach upon his Family: But the Duke Regent made no other Answer, than that the Count was as near akin to him as he was to them, but that 'twas the Crime, and not the Punishment, that brought a Stain upon Families: The Count _de Horn_ made a truly Christian Exit; for the religious Principles, which he had once imbib'd from an Education suitable to his Birth, but which he had the Misfortune to stifle, reviv'd at this dreadful Crisis; and made him submit to dye with a Resignation which we seldom see in Persons that come to such a violent Death.
The Fall of the Bills was not the only Misfortune that _France_ labour'd under; for it was visited at the same time by a Pestilence: I was one Day at the Duke Regent's Levee, when he himself declar'd the melancholy News, that at _Marseilles_ there was a Plague: This at first struck a sensible Damp upon People, but 'twas quickly forgot, and they abandon'd themselves more than ever to Pleasures, Feasting, Gallantry, _&c._ Gaming indeed was not carry'd to that Height as usual, because it could not be done without ready Money, the Bills having no Credit then, except what was forc'd; but as to Trade, it decay'd every Day more and more; and the Merchants, who had so long stiffly refus'd the Bank Bills, were nevertheless soon oblig'd to accept them, being sensible, that if they rejected them any longer, they should be under a Necessity, either to make no more Sales, or to sell upon Credit; which was an Alternative equally destructive of Trade, which is only to be supported by the Circulation of Species, or at least by something equivalent.
Humanity, and the Concern I had for the Fate of my Friends, made me a Sharer in the public Calamities; but for the rest, I pass'd my Time well enough: I went to an Estate of a Friend of mine near _Orleans_, where I spent about Six Weeks, and then return'd to _Paris_, where I stay'd no longer than just to make due Preparation for my Tour to _Spain_: I travell'd by the way of _Lyons_ and _Languedoc_, purely for the Pleasure of seeing several of my Friends, who had Estates in those Places, and from _Lyons_ I proceeded to _Vienne_ in _Dauphine_: From thence I repass'd the _Rhosne_, and travelling thro' the _Vivarese_, I went to an Estate near _Nismes_, that belong'd to a Friend of mine, with whom I stay'd a Month: At _Nismes_ I went to take a View of the famous Amphitheatres, which are the precious Remains of the _Roman_ Antiquities.
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From _Nismes_ I went to MONTPELIER, which in my Opinion is one of the most agreeable Cities in the World; and where, next to _Paris_, there's the most good Company: The Situation of it is charming, it being not far from the Sea, and encompass'd with very fertile Fields, that form a very charming Prospect. The Houses are not well built, but are all very neat within, and well furnish'd: The Streets are so narrow, that 'tis difficult to pass them with an Equipage, so that Gentlemen commonly make Use of Sedans: The Out-parts of the Town are very pleasant, especially towards the Sea. In this Part is a great Square, in Form of a Terrace, surrounded with Trees, in the middle of which is a magnificent Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. on a great Pedestal of white Marble: The Connoisseurs say, 'tis a complete Piece in all its Parts.
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After having spent some Days at _Montpelier_, I proceeded towards _Toulouse_: I went first thro' BEZIERS, an Episcopal City, the Situation of which is so pleasant, that 'tis become a common Proverb, _If God were to chuse his Residence upon Earth, he would certainly chuse_ Beziers. 'Tis even said, that the Inhabitants of the Country, the Gentry especially, have more Sense and Conduct than they have elsewhere: Yet, at different Courts, I have seen several Persons, Natives of this City, who were really so stupid, that the Notion I have of the Inhabitants of _Beziers_ is the very contrary of what they would fain make me believe.
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From _Beziers_ I travell'd to CASTELNAUDARI, in the Neighbourhood of which City was fought the Battle wherein the famous Constable _Montmorency_ was taken in Arms against his King. _Lewis_ XIII. having, at the Solicitation of Cardinal _Richelieu_, order'd his Head to be cut off, he receiv'd the Stroke of Death with a Constancy worthy of his Name, and of a better Cause.
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From this City I went in a very little time to Toulouse, the Capital of _Languedoc_, and the Seat of a Parliament, which is the second in the Kingdom: The Cathedral, dedicated to _St. Stephen_, is a magnificent Pile of Building, in a large Square, adorn'd with a fine Fountain, in which rises an Obelisk, that is a complete Piece of Work: The Archbishop's Palace, which joins to the Cathedral, is an entire new Building, wherein no Cost has been spar'd: As to the Houses of _Toulouse_, in common they are well enough built, but without any Ornament: The Streets are pretty broad, but very nasty; so that I inferr'd, the Civil Government here was not very strict: As to the People of _Toulouse_, I own to you, _Madame_, that I could like their Way of Living well enough: They have all a great Share of Wit, but the worst on't is, they are conceited, which does them a Prejudice: But they are very civil, especially to Foreigners, whom they entertain perfectly well: I don't think that I ever fed better, and liv'd more merrily than I did with these People, who are all of 'em good Jokers: The Accent of this Country too, especially of the Women, sets off whatever they say to such an Advantage, as seems to give a witty Turn to even the most common Thoughts: Little Songs or Ballads are, as it were, the Fruits of the Soil: Every one is a Sonneteer, and if their Verses are not equally good, yet they are all relish'd alike, they have such a happy way of setting them off.
To the Honour of the _Languedocians_ be it spoken, there is not a Province in _France_, nor even in _Europe_, where 'tis pleasanter Travelling: The Roads are magnificent, the Inns well provided with every thing that a Traveller, were he hard to please, can desire; and all at a reasonable Price.
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From _Toulouse_ I travell'd to PAU, a City and Parliament of _Bearn_, famous for the Birth of _Henry_ IV. on the 1st of _December, Anno 1557_, for which Reason _Catherine de Medicis_ his Mother-in-Law, who did not love him, call'd him the _Bearnois_: In the Castle is still to be seen the Chamber where this Prince was born: This City consists but of one great Street, at the End whereof stands the Castle, which is very ancient. The Houses in general seem'd very inconsiderable, they being all low, small, and without Ornament; but the Suburbs are very pleasant: As one goes out of the Gate, towards the _Pyrenees_, there's a very thick Wood, with several Alleys cut out in it, that form a noble Walk: From this Wood, which stands upon very high Ground to the _Pyrenees_, one sees an extensive Valley, in which runs a very fine River, on the Banks whereof are several scattering Villages and little Hamlets, that form one of the most agreeable Prospects.
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In Travelling from _Pau_ to BAYONNE 'twas plain that we were got out of _Languedoc_, the Roads being terrible, and the Inns detestable, for which Reason I did not halt at all by the Way, but made Haste to _Bayonne_: The next Day after I arriv'd, I went to pay a Visit to the King's Lieutenant, who commanded there: He was a Native of _Canada_, and, if I am not mistaken, had been a Major or Lieutenant-Colonel in the Regiment of _Normandy_: The Duke Regent had made him a Brigadier, and at the same time created him a Knight of _St. Lewis_, at that great Promotion of Knights which he made at the Beginning of the War with _Spain_: He had given him for his Assistant one _Dadoncourt_, as a Man that he could depend on; and 'twas this Gentleman that receiv'd me, the King's Lieutenant being at that time absent from _Bayonne_: I lik'd this _Dadoncourt_ at first Sight: He entertain'd me politely, and when I told him my Intention to go to _Spain_; he said, I might do as I pleas'd, and that he saw nothing to hinder it: He came next Day to see me, and invited me to dine with him: I accepted his Kindness, but afterwards repented it; for the Company was far from being select, and the Conversation very much disgusted me: In my first Interview with _Dadoncourt_ I made Mention to him of a Visit that I had paid to the Count _de S----_ in _Languedoc_: He talk'd of this to me very much while we were at Dinner, and he declar'd his Astonishment, that the Duke Regent had restor'd him to his Liberty, instead of cutting off his Head, as he had deserv'd: _Really_, said he, with some Warmth of Temper, to which I fancy the Wine had in some measure contributed, _His Royal Highness was too good-natur'd; all those Rascals, that presum'd to have a Hand in the Prince of_ Cellamare_'s Affair, ought to have paid for it with their Heads_: I could not help being amaz'd at the Man's Pertness, and told him very mildly, that the Regent had behav'd most wisely, and that it would have been too cruel to put People of the first Quality to Death, the Spilling of whose Blood would perhaps have rous'd some Vengeance: _Alas! Sir_, said he, _What could have been done? The Duke of_ Orleans _was sure of the Guards and Garisons; every body in the Country would certainly have stood up in his Defence, and I myself would have been the Hangman to have tuck'd up the first Gentleman that had offer'd to make a Disturbance_: I plainly saw that I had to do with a surly Companion; and perceiving also that he was fuddled, I let him run on as much as he would, in magnifying the Attachment he pretended he had to the Duke Regent; but made a Promise to myself, that it should be the last time I would visit a Man that was so bloody-minded.
After Dinner was over, I went to have Audience of the Queen of _Spain_, _Mary-Anne_ of _Neubourg_, the Dowager of _Charles_ II. When I came to the Palace, or rather to a very pitiful House, where the Queen was lodg'd, I found one of her Equerries, who carry'd me to an Antichamber, and leaving me for a few Moments, he came again, and conducted me to the Apartment of the Duchess of _Liquares_, Lady of Honour to the Queen; who was prodigiously civil to me, but, as she understood no Language besides the _Spanish_, it was impossible for us to converse, otherwise than by Signs, of which she gave me a good Number, and which I answer'd by as many Bows. As good Luck would have it, we were disengag'd from one another by an Order that came to her, to carry me to the Queen: I found her Majesty standing all alone in her Chamber, and dress'd in Black after the _Spanish_ Mode: I saw in the next Chamber some of the Maids of Honour, who were also in the _Spanish_ Dress, and peep'd in at the Door, which was left half open: The Queen receiv'd me very graciously, ask'd my Name and my Country, and seem'd overjoy'd to find a _German_, who was tolerably acquainted with a Country for which she had always an Affection: She inquir'd what News I brought of the Elector and the Princes her Brothers: I was qualify'd to satisfy her Majesty in all those Questions, because I had the Honour of paying my Court punctually to the Elector Palatine, and the Princes her Brothers: In fine, after an Audience of an Hour and more, the Queen dismiss'd me, when I stoop'd with one Knee to the Ground, and kiss'd her Hand, according to the Custom that is observ'd in _Spain_.
The next and the following Days I had the Honour to pay my Duty to her; sometimes in the Capuchins Convent, where she heard Mass very often; and sometimes in that of the Cordeliers, to which her Majesty went almost every Afternoon to Prayers: At other times I repair'd to a Garden behind the House, where her Majesty frequently took a Walk after she had din'd. This Princess always express'd herself in such a kind familiar manner as charm'd me, and she was often glad to be disencumber'd from that Ceremony, which is no less fatiguing to the Princes who grant Audience, than to those who are admitted to it: She did me the Honour to ask me one Day, Whether I did not wonder to see her in such mean Lodgings, and with such a despicable Court? I own'd to her, that at first I was a little surpriz'd at her Majesty's preferring such a Mansion to the old Castle in the Town, which really look'd more like a Palace than the House she liv'd in: _But_, said she, _I am so us'd to my little Habitation, that I can't find in my Heart to leave it: I retir'd to it during the Contention between the Houses of_ Austria _and_ Bourbon, _that I might not be so much exposed to Company, as I must have been unavoidably, if I had resided in the Castle, where every Passenger, either from_ Spain _or_ France, _would no doubt have been desirous of seeing me; all which Visits would infallibly have given Umbrage to one or other of the Two Parties, if not to Both; and I had good Reasons to keep fair with each._
Another Day, when I had the Honour to discourse with her about _Spain_ and _Germany_, I took the Freedom to tell her, that I wonder'd why her Majesty chose rather to stay at _Bayonne_, than to live in one or other of those Countries where I fancy'd she would have more Authority, and more People of Quality to attend her. _As for your Persons of Quality_, said the Queen, _I do not give myself much Trouble about them: All Men are alike to crown'd Heads, and are great no farther than as we bring them to our Courts, and honour them with our Confidence. A Man that you now call a Scrub, perhaps, if I were to give him a Post To-morrow, and admit him to my Service, he is to me as great a Lord as if his Ancestors had liv'd and dy'd in the same Employment. And as for residing in_ Spain _or in_ Germany, _I have weighty Reasons against dwelling in either. For in_ Spain _I should be oblig'd to live in a Convent, which is my utter Aversion. In_ Germany _I should, indeed, have all my Family about me; but the Court of_ Spain _would, perhaps, be uneasy at my living in the Empire, and I should be teiz'd in respect to my Dowry, which I am very willing to preserve_.
All these Reasons, and what was more than all, a long Acquaintance, made her loth to quit _Bayonne_; and that Retirement she enjoy'd there, was more agreeable to her Taste, than the Bustle of a numerous Court, where very often the Prince and the Courtier tread on one another's Toes. The Air of Freedom which reign'd at this little Court, and the Queen's Goodness in conversing with me so often, was the reason that I put off my Journey to _Spain_ from one Day to another. At last, however, after various Delays, I prepar'd in good earnest for my Departure. But at the very Time when I thought I had nothing more to do than to take my Leave of her Majesty, a very disgraceful Incident happen'd to me, which put me as much out of Conceit with _Bayonne_ as I was before in Love with it. By some imprudent Jokes that I had thrown out in Conversation, I had incurr'd the Displeasure of the King's Lieutenant, who made use of a specious Pretext in order to be reveng'd of me. I will tell you my Tale in a few Words as follows:
There was a Woman at the Queen's Court, who, by her Frankness, in which there was a Mixture of Impertinence, made her Court to the Queen with so much Art, that her Majesty was kinder to her than any Services she was capable of performing could deserve at her Hands. This Woman's Name was _la Borde_: She was a Merchant's Widow, but married afterwards clandestinely to the Queen's _Major-Domo_, and had the intire Government of her Majesty's House, where she did not fail to give her daily Attendance.