Part 11

The next Day, which was Holy _Thursday_, I desir'd Cardinal _Gualtieri_ to get me a Place where I might see the Ceremonies of that Grand Day; and his Eminency was so good as to gratify my Wish. When I arriv'd at the Church, the Pope was already in his Chapel, seated on a Throne erected on the Right Side of the Altar, with a Cardinal on each Side of him, who, I observ'd, sat upon Stools. The Constable _Colonna_ stood near the Pope, with a drawn Sword in his Hand. As soon as the Mass was ended, the holy Father descended from his Throne, and plac'd himself in a Chair of State which was of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold: Eight Men of the Pope's Livery rais'd the Chair upon their Shoulders, and carry'd it in that Manner to the Gallery which is over the Portico of _St. Peter_'s Church. The Pope was preceded by his Houshold, and by all the Cardinals, who walk'd two and two, in the midst of a couple pf Files of the Hundred _Swiss_. All _St. Peter_'s Square, and the Streets leading to it, were full of People: His Holiness's Light-Horse and Gendarmery were also there, together with the Foot-Guards, all drawn up in Order of Battle, with their Officers at their Head. As soon as his Holiness appear'd, there was a Flourish of the Kettle-Drums and Trumpets, which was quickly succeeded with a profound Silence. During this the Pope order'd a Cardinal to read the Bull of Excommunication and _Anathema_, against Heretics, Schismatics, Pagans, and all others, that did not pay due Obedience to the Holy See, or with-held its Estates; in short, against all those that lead irregular Lives. While this Bull was reading, the Pope held a Wax Taper, or rather a Torch, lighted, and as soon as the Cardinal had done reading it, the Pope rose, that is to say, the Eight Men who carry'd him lifted him up a little higher, and then his Holiness with a loud Voice pronounc'd the Excommunication, which done he threw the Torch out of his Hand into the Square, as a Symbol of the Thunder of the Church; and in a few Moments after, the Pope took off the said Excommunication, on Condition, nevertheless, that the Persons anathematis'd would repent and do public Penance for their Errors. Then he gave his Blessing to all that were present, and to the whole City of _Rome_ in general, by turning himself about towards the Three other Parts of the Town. At the same Time all the Cannon of the Castle of _St. Angelo_ were fir'd, and all the Bells of the City were rung, which was accompany'd with the Sound of the Trumpets, Kettle-Drums, and other Drums of the Soldiery, that were posted in _St. Peter_'s Square. During this, his Holiness was carry'd back into his Chapel, where the Tiara which he had wore during the whole Ceremony, was taken off, and then he went up to the Altar, where he took the Holy Sacrament and carry'd it with great Devotion to a magnificent Sepulchre, which had been built in the little Chapel. After this Ceremony, the Pope retir'd to put on his ordinary Habit, and then went, attended by the Cardinals, into a Room, where Thirteen Priests of different Nations being plac'd all in a Row, dress'd in long White Robes, his Holiness wash'd their Feet, and gave to each a Medal and a Nosegay of Flowers. This Ceremony being ended, the Pope, follow'd by those Thirteen Priests, went into a second Room, where was a Table very neatly spread, at which the Priests sat down, and were serv'd by the Pope and the Cardinals. The Chevalier _de St. George_ and his Princess were present at this Ceremony, with whom the Pope had some Conversation; and when his Holiness left them, he said, _I have been washing of Feet, I am going now to wash Hands_: at the same Time he presented the Water for that Purpose to the Thirteen Clergymen whom he had attended during the Dinner.

When the Pope was retir'd, the Cardinals went into a great Room, where they found a Table sumptuously spread. At Night the Pope and the Sacred College assisted at the _Miserere_, which was sung in the great Chapel with Instrumental Music.

Upon _Easter-Day_ the Pope was present at High-Mass, with all the Cardinals; after which his Holiness, dress'd in his Pontificalibus and the Tiara on his Head, was carry'd in the same Manner as upon Holy _Thursday_, to the Gallery which fronts _St. Peter_'s Square, where the Soldiers were drawn up in Batallia, and the People on their Knees to receive the Pope's Benediction; which was no sooner given, than there was a general Discharge of all the Artillery from the Castle of _St. Angelo_: Then the Pope retir'd to his Palace, and each of the Cardinals to his respective Habitation. Thus ended the Ceremonies of the Holy Week, during which I observ'd, that the Churches were always so throng'd, that the People were ready to be stifled: Yet I believe that the _Italians_ frequent the Churches during this holy Season, more for the sake of hearing the excellent Music that is perform'd in them, than from any Motive of Religion.

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Immediately after the Holy Week was ended, I set out Post from _Rome_ with several Foreigners that had the same Curiosity as myself, to see the famous City of NAPLES. This City, which is the Metropolis of a Kingdom of the same Name, stands on the Brink of the Sea, where it forms a Basin, which the Town encompasses in Form of a Half Moon: From thence it rises like an Amphitheatre, towards Hills which are cover'd with Vineyards and delightful Gardens, from whence is the finest Prospect that can be imagin'd. Upon one of these Hills is the famous Castle of _St. Elmo_, built by _Charles_ V. which is a Fortress that commands the whole City.

_Naples_ is the See of an Archbishop, whose Metropolitan Church is dedicated to _St. Januarius_; and in this Church is preserv'd the Head of that Saint, and some Drops of his Blood in a Glass Phyal. We are assur'd, that every Year, upon that Saint's Festival, the very Instant that they put the Phyal to the Head, the Blood, which was before condens'd, turns Liquid. All the People of _Naples_ are Eye-Witnesses of this Miracle, and seem, in my Mind, to have a great Devotion for the Saint. Of this we may easily judge by the Magnificence of his Church, which shines throughout with Gold, Silver, Marble, _&c._ and 'tis moreover adorn'd with very beautiful Paintings.

The Viceroy's Palace is one of the noblest Structures in the World: The Beauty of the Architecture and the Disposition of the Apartments give the same Pleasure to the Spectator, as the magnificent Prospect the Viceroy has from a Balcony that ranges before the Windows, to which I never saw any thing equal for its Extent, or its agreeable Variety. The fine Gardens, the Harbour, the Arsenal, the lofty Hills, the terrible Mount _Vesuvius_, in short, the whole City of _Naples_, all, _Madame_, contribute to the Prospect from the Viceroy's Palace. The Person who then enjoy'd that Dignity was the Cardinal _Schrotenbach_, not much belov'd by the _Neapolitans_, who shew'd a very public Concern for the Loss of the Count _de Gallas_ his Predecessor. I question whether the Hatred they bore to this new Viceroy was well grounded, for several People own'd to me ingenuously, that he did every thing in his Power to make them happy. His Court perhaps, which was too melancholy, and not much frequented, did not please the _Neapolitans_, who love Grandeur. Besides, the Cardinal seldom appeared in public, whereas these People love to see their Viceroy often, and are fond to see him in Procession, with all the Pomp befitting a Nobleman, vested with a Dignity which they look upon as superior to any other whatsoever; for it must be observ'd, that a _Neapolitan_ thinks nothing comparable to the Vice-royalty of _Naples_. And to shew what a grand Idea they have of this Dignity, they tell a Story, That a _Neapolitan_ Lady, at an Audience she had of the King of _Spain_, wish'd, in order to complete his Happiness, that it would please God to make him one Day Viceroy of _Naples_.

I found in this City the Prince _T----_, whom I knew at _Vienna_. This Nobleman offer'd to introduce me to several Assemblies, with which he assur'd me I should not be displeas'd. I was glad to accept of his Offer, upon his Assurance that they consisted of quite other Sort of People than the Assemblies at _Rome_. I there made an Acquaintance with several _Neapolitan_ Gentlemen, who were as civil to me as could be, and were so complaisant, as to carry me to those Parts of the City which were most remarkable. I was charm'd with the noble Walk, form'd by the _Cours_, along by the Sea-side, where I met with a great Number of Coaches, which seem'd to me to have more of the _French_ Air than those of _Rome_, bating only, that they were all drawn by Mules, or very sorry Horses. After I had taken a Walk, I was invited to make one of a Party at Supper, where I was promis'd good Chear and good Company; which I freely accepted, and had the Pleasure of seeing the Performance as good as the Promise. The Entertainment was most delicate, and very amiable Ladies were also of the Party: I should have had an intire Pleasure in conversing with them; but, for Want of understanding _Italian_, I could only talk by Signs, a Method of Conversation very troublesome for Persons that would have desir'd nothing better than to hold a Discourse. After Supper they propos'd a Match at Pharao; the Prince _T----_ offer'd to cut the Cards, and had such a Run of bad Luck, that in a little time I saw him lose considerable Sums. I won to my Share 260 Pistoles, which that Gentleman sent me next Day, together with a great Basket of green Peas, and good Store of Fruit.

While I stay'd at _Naples_, I could not help going to see the famous Mount _Vesuvius_, of which I had heard so much Talk; but when I found myself at the Top of this dreadful Mountain, I repented of my Labour, for I imagin'd I should have been requited for the Pains I took, by the Sight of something marvellous, when I came to the Top; but so far from it, that I saw nothing but Smoak issuing from several very great Cavities, which it would not have been prudent to approach; and indeed I had no manner of Temptation to it, so that I return'd but little wiser than I went: What I remark'd in particular was, that as I struck my Foot against the Ground, I heard a Noise, very much like the Sound of an empty Cask; and that's all I am able to tell you of Mount _Vesuvius_. As to the Form of this Mountain, it would be in vain to describe it, because it changes its Shape every time it throws out Fire. I found it much more painful to descend the Mount than I did to ascend it, for the Abundance of bak'd Clods, calcin'd Stones, sulphurous Matter, and the Heaps of Ashes, made the Descent so difficult, that when I came to the Bottom, I found myself so fatigued, that I could scarce remount my Horse: I perceiv'd that the soft Boots I wore, were intirely burnt, undoubtedly by the Sulphur and Lime, of which the Mountain is intirely compos'd. I was then told, that it had not cast out any Flames for a long time, but that this would infallibly happen very soon, because new Holes were discover'd in it, and that the Earth, which visibly broke away, began to sink. I thought such a Mountain was a very bad Neighbour to so considerable a City as _Naples_; yet the _Neapolitans_ don't seem to be much terrify'd at it. Indeed when the Flames actually break out, they are not the same Men; they then flock in Crouds to the Churches, every body falls to Prayer, and they make public Promises to change their Lives; but no sooner do they think all the Danger to be over, than they relapse into the same Degree of Debauchery as ever: In which they resemble those Wits, who, when they are in perfect Health, seem to set Death at Defiance; but when they feel its Approaches, discover such faint Hearts as give the Lye to their pretended Heroism.

Next Day I went to see the great _Carthusian_ Church of _St. Martin_, which is most happily situated: The Church and Convent are Two stately Structures, which contain immense Wealth: The Treasury and Sacristy are full of noble Ornaments, Vessels of Gold and Silver, richly wrought and adorn'd for most part with precious Stones; and the Friars have very convenient Lodgings, every one having a Chamber, a Closet, a Library, and a little Garden to himself.

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I went afterwards to POZZUOLI or PUTEOLI, where I saw a Road, or rather a Cavern, of a very singular Structure, which is cut out partly in the Rock, and partly in the Sand: 'Tis 30 or 40 Feet in Height, and broad enough for Two Coaches to go abreast. This Road, which is very long, receives no Light but from the Extremities, and a Hole in the middle; for which reason, in the greatest Part of it, one is forc'd to grope out the Way in the Dark, and to take Care to call out at proper Distances, to give Notice where one is, a Precaution without which People would be in Danger of running foul of one another.

After I had pass'd this Cavern, I found myself near that call'd _la Grotte du Chien_, or the Dog's Grotto, which is but a narrow Cavern, and at most only Five Feet in Height, so that few People can stand upright in it. I there saw the Experiment usually made there: A Dog was laid flat with his Face to the Ground, which the very same Instant fell into Convulsions, and soon after shew'd no Sign at all of Life. Upon this he was thrown out of the Cavern as dead, when a Man took him, and put him into the Lake, which is but 25 or 30 Paces from the Cavern, and the Dog immediately recover'd his Spirits. After this Experiment was over, which I leave to be accounted for by wiser Heads than mine, I went to _Puteoli_, which in Truth has nothing of its ancient Splendor remaining. And I can't imagine why Foreigners make it a Sort of Law to go to it; for there's nothing now to be seen here, except old Ruins of no Signification.

The Impatience I had to see the famous City of _Venice_ did not permit me to continue long at _Naples_, so that I stay'd there no longer than was necessary to receive an Answer to a Letter, which I wrote at my Arrival there, to the Count _de S----_, in _Sicily_; wherein I pretended, that Affairs of the utmost Importance had prevented me from having the Honour of joining him as soon as I wish'd; but you must know, that this was all mere Compliment of mine, for several of my Friends had put me very much out of Conceit with going to serve in _Sicily_. And the Letter, which the Count _de S----_ return'd in Answer to mine, completed my Disgust; for he wrote in a Style that I did not like, and the Lectures he was pleas'd to give me, made me resolve not to expose myself to the Danger of receiving a second Letter: I wrote to him therefore, that he was welcome to dispose of my Commission, and that my Affairs did not permit me to enter into the Service so soon. From that time I determin'd to continue my Travels, and to try my Fortune at the _Spanish_ Court, to which I had for a long while been desirous of going; but you will soon perceive, that I was just as fortunate at that Court as I was at all the rest.

Having therefore no longer any Restraint upon me in my Travels, I chose to satisfy my Curiosity, and from _Naples_ I set out for _Venice_. I made the best of my Way thro' several little Towns of _St. Peter's_ Patrimony, in which there was nothing remarkable, besides sorry Victualling-houses, but stopp'd at LORETTO, a little Town in the Marquisate of _Ancona_, the Suburbs whereof I thought very charming: The Town itself is very pretty, and advantagiously situate, being plac'd on a Hill, from whence is a noble Prospect of the _Adriatic_ Sea, or Gulph of _Venice_. The Inhabitants of _Loretto_ are all very rich, yet all their Trade consists in Strings of Beads, Images of the Virgin, and other Things of that Sort; but then there's such a vast Resort of Pilgrims thither at every Turn, that the Money they lay out for Lodging, and for the Purchase of Images and Beads, is sufficient alone to maintain the Inhabitants handsomly.

You know, _Madame_, that the Business of a Pilgrimage to _Loretto_ is to visit a Chapel, which was formerly the House where the Holy Virgin dwelt, when the Angel brought her the Tidings that she should be the Mother of the Saviour of the World: 'Tis surprizing at first Dash to find a House in _Italy_, which was formerly built in a Country so far off; but when one comes to be a little acquainted with History, the Astonishment presently subsides; for this House shifted its Place several times before it fix'd in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: It was first, they say, remov'd by Angels from _Nazareth_, which was really its original Country, into _Dalmatia_, where it stay'd Three Years. When that Term was expir'd, the said Angels remov'd it a second time, and carry'd it to the Territory of _Recanati_, in the Marquisate of _Ancona_: But as every Day produc'd some Murder or Robbery in those Parts, the Angels, alarm'd at such a Neighbourhood, carry'd away the House a third time, and plac'd it some Distance from the Spot, where it stands now. But there it did not stay long; for a Couple of Friars, to whom the Ground belong'd on which the House was plac'd at that time, having a warm Contention which should be the Proprietor of it, the Angels soon put an End to the Dispute, by removing the Building the fourth and last time, and putting it where it now stands: To do Honour to this House, and perhaps also to fix it here, Care was taken to build a very magnificent Church, in the middle of which 'tis inclos'd. The Walls of this Church are lin'd with white Marble, wrought in _Basso-Relievo_ by the ablest Workmen of that Time; containing the whole History of the Holy Virgin: There are also between double Columns of the _Corinthian_ Order Two Rows of Niches, one above the other, in the lowermost Row whereof are the Statues of the Prophets, and in the uppermost those of the Sybils; the whole being of admirable Workmanship. The House of the Virgin, which is commonly call'd _Santa Casa_, seem'd to me to be built of Brick: 'Tis much longer than broad: 'Tis divided by an Altar into Two unequal Parts, in the least whereof is the miraculous Statue of the Virgin, which stands in a Nich, bearing the Infant Jesus in her Right Arm. The Mother and Child have each a Triple Crown of Gold, adorn'd with precious Stones. The whole Habit consists of a long Mantle of Gold Brocade, embroider'd with Pearls and Diamonds. The Sanctuary is lighted by several Lamps of solid Gold, of a prodigious Size, particularly one, not only remarkable for its Bigness, but for the Richness of the Workmanship, which was sent to _Loretto_ by the Republic of _Venice_, to fulfil a Vow of that Republic, during the time of a Plague, which made cruel Ravages in a great Part of the State of _Venice_.

As to the Divine Service, it may be said to be perform'd at _Loretto_, to the utmost Degree of Exactness; nor is there any thing more edifying than to see with what Devotion Pilgrims from all Countries come to visit the _Santa Casa_. They enter it upon their Knees, and devoutly kiss the Walls of it, as well as the Chimney, in which they pretend, the Holy Virgin dress'd her Meat. They also apply their Beads and Images to a Porringer, which, they say, was the very same that serv'd for the Holy Virgin's Soup-Dish.

As I went out of the Church, I was carry'd to a great Room, where I saw immense Riches. There are 17 large Presses, all full of Jewels and Vessels, for most part of Gold, or of some more precious Matter. In this Room I also saw the Virgin's numerous Suits of Apparel, of which she has Change for every Day in the Year, and so rich, that I declare I never saw any thing like it. After I had well view'd this costly Wardrobe, I went to see the Palace, which is a very spacious Building, not a great way from the Church. I was shew'd the Wardrobe of it, where is a deal of fine Tapistry, and I afterwards went to see the Arsenal, which is not very considerable.

When I had intirely satisfy'd my Curiosity at _Loretto_, I set out for _Bologna_, and went by the very Gates of _Ancona_, which is a Sea-Port in the Pope's Dominions; but I made no Stay at it, because I had been told before-hand, there was nothing in it worth seeing, and went and din'd at Fano, a very pretty little Town, where I saw a Triumphal Arch with Three Gates, the Inscriptions whereof were quite defac'd, and I could find no body wise enough to let me into the History of this Fragment, which I thought very ancient.

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From thence I went to PESARO, a little Town not far from the Sea, and very much celebrated for the Fertility of its Soil. Here is a very large Square, and in the middle of it a magnificent Fountain. This City and the whole Duchy of _Urbino_ were united to the Holy See during the Pontificate of _Urban_ VIII. whose Statue, still to be seen in the great Square, was erected in Memory of that Event.

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From _Pesaro_ I went in a Day to RIMINI, an Episcopal City which stood formerly, on the Sea-side; but has not had that Advantage for a long Time, the Sea being retir'd from it above half a Mile. This was the first Place that _Cæsar_ took at the Beginning of the Civil War. The Emperor _Augustus_ embellish'd it with a Triumphal Arch, which is to be seen here at this Day; as are also the Ruins of an Amphitheatre, and of a Marble Bridge well preserv'd, over which there are two Inscriptions that denote it was built by the Emperors _Augustus_ and _Tiberius_. All the way from _Rimini_ to _Bologna_ I saw nothing remarkable.

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[21]BOLOGNA is an Archbishoprick, and the second in the Ecclesiastical State: 'Tis commonly call'd _Bologna the Fat_, because of its fruitful Soil. 'Twas heretofore independent of the Holy See, and had very advantagious Terms for submitting to it. It has a Right, among Others, of having always at _Rome_ an Auditor pf the _Rota_, and an Ambassador; which is punctually observ'd: And the Pope, on his Part, has a Legate here, who is always a Cardinal, and lodges in the Palace, which indeed is ancient, but very spacious, and the Apartments are conveniently distributed. Over the Portico of this Palace is a Statue of Brass erected to the Honour of _Gregory_ XIII. which is look'd upon as a Master-piece of Art, and weighs, as they say, 11,000 Pound; and on one Side of it is another of _Boniface_ VIII. which is not a bad one.

As to the Manners of the Inhabitants of _Bologna_, I cannot but speak in Praise of them: They have all the Civility and Regard to Foreigners that one can wish for. There is Abundance of Gentry here, who live with more Grandeur and Freedom than in any other Part of _Italy_; and, to say all that I think of this City in one Word, if I were to settle in _Italy_, 'tis the only Town I would chuse to live in.