Part 10
Next Day after my Arrival, my Curiosity carry'd me to visit _St. Peter_'s Church: The first thing I saw in my Way, going from my Lodgings, was the Bridge of _St. Angelo_ upon the _Tyber_, which fronts the Castle of the same Name: This Bridge is of a fine Breadth, with Marble Banisters on each Side, on which, at proper Distances, are Angels of Marble, of wonderful Workmanship. The Castle of _St. Angelo_ is, as I have said, over-against the Bridge: This is a great Tower, encompass'd with Bastions, which serves as a Citadel to the City of _Rome_, and a Place of Retreat to the Pope in a time of War or Rebellion; it communicates by a long Gallery with the _Vatican_ Palace: As we go off of the Bridge of _St. Angelo_, we pass for some time on the Banks of the _Tyber_, over a Key that is on the left Hand. From thence we go thro' several Streets to the famous Square of _St. Peter_'s Church, which may be term'd the chief Square in the Universe. It was design'd by the celebrated _Bernini_, and executed in the manner as it now appears to us by Pope _Alexander_ VII. 'Tis an Oval, encompass'd with a great Gallery, supported by 324 Pillars of Free-Stone; the Top is adorn'd with a Balustrade, on which, at proper Spaces, are the Statues of the Twelve Apostles and other Saints, and the Arms of Pope _Alexander_ VII. In this Square we see the famous Obelisk, which was rais'd by Order of _Sixtus_ V. in 1586, in the middle between Two noble Fountains. The Gallery, that runs round _St. Peter_'s Square, leads on both Sides to the Portico of the Church, which is a Piece of Work that one can never be weary of admiring. For whether we consider the Materials, or the Skill of the Architect by whom it was conducted, they are equally surprizing. The Pavement of the Portico is of Marble, and the Ceiling of Stucco gilt: It leads on the Right Hand to the grand Stair-case of the _Vatican_, and there's a cover'd Gallery over it, where the Pope appears upon _Holy-Thursday_ and _Easter-Day_ to anathematize Heretics, Schismatics and Infidels; and also to bless the People, who at that time are all kneeling in the Square, and in the Streets which lead to it. The principal Entrance of the Portico is answerable to the great Gate of the Church, which is of Brass, and on one Side of it is that call'd _la Porta Santa_, or the Holy Gate, that is never open'd except on the grand Jubilees, which are only once in 25 Years.
But let the Outside of this stately Edifice be as magnificent as it will, 'tis not to compare to the Inside, where is nothing but Gold, Silver, Brass, Marble, Precious Stones, Paintings and Carvings by the greatest Masters. In a Word, in this august Temple we see the Master-Pieces of the most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties.
The Plan of this Building is a Cross, with a very spacious and lofty Dome in the middle; the Ceiling of which is gilded and painted in _Mosaic_. Under this Dome stands the High Altar, which is not to be parallel'd for its Magnificence: 'Tis rais'd some Steps from the Ground, and stands by itself; there is none but the Pope, or, in his Absence, the Dean of the sacred College, that can say Mass at it: Four wreathed Columns of Brass, with Vine-Leaves twining about them, support a superb Canopy or Pavilion, which is intirely of Brass: 'Tis adorn'd with _Basso-Relievo_'s, and especially of Bees, to denote the Arms of Pope _Urban_ VIII. of the _Barberini_ Family, who caus'd this noble Pavilion to be erected. Over each Pillar is an Angel of Brass gilt, 17 Feet high. The Cornices of the Pillars are wide enough for Children to play and walk between them: Under the Altar is the Tomb of the Apostles _St. Peter_ and _St. Paul_, to which is a Descent by Two Flights of Marble Steps, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The whole is adorn'd with Compartments of Marble and precious Stones, the Workmanship of which even surpasses the Beauty of the Materials. These Steps are encompass'd with Banisters of Brass, on which a great Number of Silver Lamps is perpetually burning, except on _Good Friday_.
_St. Peter_'s Chair is over-against the great Altar; 'tis all of Brass, and very high; 'tis supported by the Four Fathers of the Church, whose Colossal Statues are of Brass gilt: Over the Chair is a Glory of Brass, which reaches to the Roof, and underneath is a magnificent Altar, on the Sides whereof are Two Tombs of Popes.
I have already done myself the Honour to acquaint you, that I did not propose to give a particular Detail of all the fine Things which most of the _Italian_ Cities, and especially _Rome_, offer to the Eyes of the curious Spectator; for I should in that case only repeat what a hundred Travellers have already describ'd at large; I therefore silently pass over several Monuments, with which you are perfectly acquainted, by the reading of several Travels to _Italy_: I will only tell you by the way, that I was astonish'd at the Beauty of the Tomb of the famous _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, who, after having made a voluntary Resignation of her Crown, and turn'd Catholic, at last fix'd her Residence at _Rome_, where she dy'd. This Princess was interr'd in _St. Peter_'s Church, where a magnificent Tomb of Marble and Brass was erected for her; and there's her Picture in a Medallion, which is very fine. On one Side of this Princess's Tomb, is that of the famous Countess _Matilda_, whose Memory ought to be very dear to the Popes, she having been one of the most signal Benefactrices which the Church ever had.
Besides the Inside and Outside of _St. Peter_'s Church, there are Places under Ground which are very magnificent: One sees several Chapels there lin'd with Marble, whose Altars are adorn'd with _Mosaic_ Paintings, to fortify them against the Damps. The Roof of this Church is also worth seeing; one ascends first to the Dome by a Stair-case, rising gradually without Steps; after which one ascends by another, which is not so commodious, to a Globe at the Top of the Dome, which supports its Cross: From hence there's a Prospect of the Country for near 40 Miles.
I went from _St. Peter_'s Church to see the _Vatican_ Palace, which joins to it: This was formerly the Pope's common Residence, but for some time past they have given the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_ the Preference to it, that being said to be in a much healthier Air. The _Vatican_ is a very irregular Pile, of several Pieces of Buildings coupled together, which compose an Edifice of a prodigious Size, where by Consequence there must be a great Number of Apartments. 'Tis accompany'd with a Garden, at the End of which is a House call'd _Belvedere_, because of the fine Prospect there is from it. In this Palace there are all the most curious Things one would wish to see in Pictures and in Statues. The Pope's Apartments are very fine, and hung with crimson Damask or Velvet, adorn'd with a broad Lace and Fringe of Gold. I enter'd into a great Apartment, which was heretofore richly furnish'd for the Reception of _Philip_ V. King of Spain, at the time when he was in _Italy_, and expected at _Rome_.
The famous _Vatican_ Library is also worth the Traveller's View, being full of very scarce Books and curious MSS. You know, it has been very much augmented by the _Heidelberg_ Library, and that of the Duke of _Urbino_.
After having satisfy'd my Curiosity with regard to these Structures, I thought of making some Visits: I went to the Marquis _C----_, and to the Duke _S----_, for whom I had Letters given me at _Florence_. Those Gentlemen were mighty civil to me, and offer'd to shew me the Curiosities at _Rome_, and to introduce me to the Assemblies. In Fact the Marquis _C----_ carry'd me the very same Day to _Madame de B----_, where I found a very fine Assembly of Ladies and Gentlemen, and especially _Abbes_, smart Fellows, who were able to read Lectures to the nicest _Petit-Maitres_ in the Art of Coquetry. The Ladies were very well dress'd, and for most part amiable, but not very easy of Access to such as had not the Honour of wearing the little Band. The young Abbes had taken Care to engross them so, that there seem'd to be no Possibility of coming near them. After some Chat, and swallowing good Store of Chocolate, we went into another Room, where the Company sat down to several Sorts of Play. There I thought with myself, of what Advantage it would have been for me to be _Monsieur l' Abbe_. Every one of these Gentlemen readily found Partners, but for my part, as they did not do me the Honour to offer me the Cards, I was perfectly idle; and had it not been for the Person that introduc'd me, with whom I talk'd now-and-then, I should have made a very queer Figure: I did not think fit to stay till the Assembly broke up, and was very glad when I got out.
Next Day I took an Antiquarian with me, to serve as my Guide, to shew me the greatest Curiosities at _Rome_: He carry'd me first to the most considerable Squares; and of these the first that I saw was the _Trajan_ Square, in the middle whereof stands the famous _Trajan_ Pillar, so call'd from the Emperor _Trajan_, who began it, tho' 'twas not finish'd till after his Death: 'Tis 128 Feet in Height, and has a Stair-case that leads to the Top, consisting of 123 Steps. The Outside of this Pillar is of Marble, and represents _Trajan_'s principal Actions in _Basso-Relievo_. This Column was rais'd higher by Pope _Sixtus_ V. who had _St. Peter_'s Statue plac'd on the Top of it, instead of an Urn, which they say contain'd the Ashes of the Emperor _Trajan_.
My Antiquarian conducted me afterwards to the Place _Navona_, which forms a long Square, with a Number of Houses round it, which are neither regular nor magnificent. There are in the middle Three Fountains, very convenient for the Purpose they serve, which is to lay all that Part of the Town under Water in extreme hot Weather, for the Refreshment of Persons of Quality, who come thither at that time in their Coaches.
We went to see the Church of _St. John de Lateran_, which may be deem'd the Mother and Chief of all the Churches in _Christendom_: It owes its Foundation to the Emperor Constantine, who caus'd it to be built with extraordinary Magnificence; it has had the Misfortune of being twice burnt down, but was rebuilt both times with the same Magnificence: 'Tis not indeed so large, nor of such modern Architecture as _St. Peter_'s Church, but every whit as beautiful. The Pavement is all of Marble, and the Roof supported by Four Rows of Pillars, which are of an extraordinary Height and Circumference. Near this Church is a Chapel, built in Form of a Dome, which, 'tis said, was _Constantine_'s Baptistery, but this last Article is not absolutely certain.
From this Church I went to the _Scala-Santa_, which is a Building of Free-Stone, but no Part of it extraordinary: Three Portico's form the principal Front; that in the middle leads to the _Scala-Santa_, or Holy Stair-case; so call'd because 'tis said the Steps of it are the same that form'd the Stair-case of _Pilate_'s Palace, by which our Lord descended, after he was scourg'd. Every body goes up these Stairs on their Knees; it leads to a Chapel, with Grates inclosing precious Relics, particularly a Picture of Jesus Christ, which, they affirm, was painted by the Angels. 'Tis for this very Reason, that this Chapel is call'd the _Sancta-Sanctorum_. On one Side of this _Scala-Santa_ there are Two little Stair-cases, for those that don't care to ascend the Holy Stairs upon their Knees; or for those who go down, after having perform'd this Act of Devotion.
When I had seen the _Scala-Santa_, my Guide conducted me to the _Coliseum_, which is a large Amphitheatre, built of Stone: They say, that _Vespasian_ began this superb Structure, and that his Son _Titus_ finish'd it, and entertain'd the Public with a Battle of wild Beasts in it, of which here were to the Number of 5000. The Inside of the _Coliseum_ is an Oval, encompass'd with Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, according to the Opinion of some Authors, contain'd above 85,000 Spectators: 'Tis great Pity that so stately a Building was not preserv'd. _Urban_ VIII. of the _Barberini_ Family, permitted his Nephews to demolish a Part of the _Coliseum_, and to build therewith the _Barberini_ Palace. The little that remains of it is so much fallen to Ruin, that 'tis very probable, the next Generation will know nothing of this magnificent Structure, but by the Prints that we have of it.
The _Pantheon_, or our Lady _de la Rotonda_, is the only ancient Edifice that has been preserv'd: 'Tis 228 Feet in Diameter; and from its Centre to the Top of the Dome 'tis 144 Feet: _Agrippa_, the Favourite and Son-in-Law of the Emperor _Augustus_, caus'd this Temple to be built in Honour of all the Heathen Gods; and 'tis now a Church, dedicated to _All the Saints_. The only Light it has, is from a great Opening in the middle of the Roof, which, tho' somewhat lofty, is not supported by any Pillar: It was formerly cover'd with Brass, but _Urban_ VIII. caus'd it to be taken off, and employ'd in the building of the High Altar of _St. Peter_'s Church; which occasion'd his Enemies to say, _That the_ Barberini _had done, what the_ Barbarians _durst not attempt_.
At my Return from this Ramble I found at my Lodgings the Duke _de S----_, who came to carry me to the Assembly at _Madame de S----_. The Company there was not very numerous, nor did I find it any more diverting than that to which I was introduc'd before: There were few Ladies, and scarce any Gentlemen of the Sword, but Abbes in Abundance: I plainly perceiv'd, that the Assemblies at _Rome_ were not the most entertaining to a Foreigner, and therefore I resolv'd, which I think was much better, to employ myself in viewing the various Curiosities of the City. I went to the Capitol, being every where accompany'd by my trusty Antiquarian: 'Tis a Building compos'd of Three distinct Apartments, detach'd from one another; Two of which form the advanc'd Wings, and all Three are built of Free-Stone: They stand upon a Hill, to which is an Ascent by a great Marble Stair-case: The Court before this Building is a spacious Oval, to which is a Descent by Three Steps of Marble: In the middle is the Equestrian Statue of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius_, a noble Remnant of Antiquity.
From the Capitol I went to the Pope's Palace, call'd _Monte-Cavallo_, from the Name of the Hill on which it stands. This of all the Palaces of _Rome_ is one that enjoys the finest Prospect, and the best Air: It was built by Order of Pope _Paul_ V. The Gardens which belong to it are large, but not so beautiful, as to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Palace. After having sufficiently view'd it, I return'd to my Quarters, where I had appointed the Marquis _de A----_ to come and go along with me to the Cardinal _Corsini_. His Eminency, who had an Assembly at is House every Night, gave me a very kind Reception, and I found a numerous Company there, which was much more to my Satisfaction than the Two Assemblies I had been at before. The Cardinal did the Honours of his House perfectly well, and took Care that every body should have a Part, either at Play, or in Conversation. I paid my Court to him constantly, and did not fail to be at his Assembly every Night, till I left the City: The rest of the Time I spent in rambling thro' the several Quarters of _Rome_, to see what was most remarkable.
After having made this Progress thro' the Inside of the City, I had a Mind also to view the Out-parts: I was conducted to the famous Vineyards of the _Pamphili_ and _Borghese_ Families, which the _Italians_ prefer before all the Gardens in _Europe_; wherein I am not quite of their Opinion. The Statues in these Vineyards are, to my Mind, not to be parallel'd of the Sort, but, as to the Agriculture or Waters, the Gardens of _France_ outstrip them by far. At the Entrance of the _Borghese_ Vineyard is a large Portico of Marble, which fronts a Walk, at the End whereof is a very large Square, encompass'd with a Marble Balustrade, adorn'd with Statues of the same. This Square serves as a Court to the House, which is not very large, but contains immense Wealth in Statues and Paintings. The Outside is fac'd with _Basso-Relievo's_ of Marble, amongst which the Statue of _Quintus Curtius_ on Horseback, casting himself headlong into the Gulph, is especially to be admir'd.
The _Pamphili_'s Vineyard is in my Opinion the finest Place in the Suburbs of _Rome_. The Gardens have an Air of Grandeur and Proportion, which I have not observ'd any where else. The Outside and Inside of the House are lin'd alike with _Basso-Relievo_'s of Marble of admirable Workmanship. There are also noble Statues, but most of 'em a little damag'd, by reason of the various Fits of Devotion and Lukewarmness of a Prince _Pamphili_, who did these Statues irreparable Injury: For this Prince, in the first hot Fits of his Devotion, caus'd the Nudities of the Statues of this Garden to be plaister'd over; but when that Zeal was abated, he had a Mind to see his Statues again in their former Condition, which being not possible to be done without breaking off the Plaister with the Strokes of a Hammer; the Workman, for Want of due Care, gave some by which several of those Statues were considerably damaged.
All the various Curiosities took up a great deal of my Time, as well as the famous _Borghese_ and _Farnese_ Palaces, those of _Colonna_, _Palavicini_, _Barberini_, and others, the Description of which I omit. After having thus satisfy'd myself, I thought of being introduced to the Pope, and for that Purpose apply'd to the Cardinal _del Giudice_, to whom I had Letters of Recommendation, as I had to the Cardinals _Gualtieri_ and _Ottoboni_. I had the Honour to have favourable Audiences of all their three Eminencies. As I was a _German_, I paid my first Visit to the Cardinal _del Giudice_, who at that Time had the Care of the Emperor's Affairs. After a short Stay in his Antichamber, I was Introduc'd to an Audience of him by one of his Gentlemen. This Prelate was not well that Day, and I found him in his Night-Gown, lying on a Couch-Bed; but as soon as he saw me enter, he rose and advanc'd to receive me; after which he sat down again, and made me take an Arm-Chair over-against him. When the Audience was over, he got up, and conducted me to the very Door of his Chamber, where I found his Eminency's Gentlemen, two of whom waited on me to the Head of the Stairs, and another went down with me, and attended me to my Coach.
Cardinal _Gualtieri_ receiv'd me also in a most obliging Manner. He gave me Audience in his Closet, where, after the first Greeting, he sat down in an Arm-Chair, made me do the like, and oblig'd me to be cover'd: I was very loth to take that Liberty, but he would be obey'd; and in this Situation I stay'd an Hour at least. I was charm'd with the Behaviour of this Prelate, who of all the Cardinals took the least State upon him. The Tokens he gave me of his Kindness, made me attach myself to him; and I was very assiduous in my Attendance upon him all the Time that I stay'd at _Rome_. He sent one of his Gentlemen with me to the Cardinal _Ottoboni_, Protector of the Affairs of _France_, whom I found in his Closet standing, and in that Posture he remain'd all the Time of my Visit. When I withdrew, I was attended in the same Manner as I had been at the House of the Cardinal _del Giudice_.
After I had made a Visit to these three Cardinals, the Cardinal _del Giudice_ introduced me to the Pope, who was at that Time _Clement_ XI. of the _Albani_ Family. The Cardinal had an Audience of his Holiness by himself first, and then he introduc'd me. I fell on my Knees at the Door, according to Custom, and then rising again, advanc'd to the Middle of the Room, where I was preparing for a second Genuflexion; but the Pope prevented me, by beckoning me with his Hand to advance, and calling out to me _Aventi, Aventi_, i.e. Come forwards. I obey'd till I came to his Feet, when I fell on my Knees and kiss'd an embroider'd Cross which was on his Holiness's Slippers. The Pope gave me his Blessing, and commanded me to rise. He did me the Honour to talk to me a good while, concerning the good Fortune I had to embrace the Catholic Religion; ask'd me several Questions relating to my Conversion, and seem'd so overjoy'd at the Grace God had given me, that he could not refrain shedding some Tears. He then ask'd me News about the Sate of Religion in _Germany_, and highly extoll'd the Zeal which the Elector _Palatine_ manifested for the Catholic Religion. He concluded with exhorting me to continue stedfast in the Opinion I had been so happy as to embrace; and when his Holiness dismiss'd me, he made me a Present of several _Agnis Dei's_, two little Medals, one of Gold the other of Silver, and a Dispensation to eat Flesh in Lent.
I stay'd at _Rome_ till Lent was over, that I might have a Sight of the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; at which Time the Court of the Sovereign Pontiff appears in its utmost Splendor. His Holiness set out on _Wednesday_ in the Holy Week from _Monte Cavallo_ for the _Vatican_ Palace, with very great Ceremony, and a numerous Retinue: The Prelates and Officers of his Holiness's Houshold went first, who were all on Horseback in wide Cassocks, which really made a very scurvy Figure; for, in my Opinion, long Gowns and flapp'd Hats do not seem to be a suitable Equipage for Riding. After them came a couple of Grooms, leading a White Horse richly accouter'd, the same which was for his Holiness's Riding; but on that Day he was carried in a Sedan of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, which was followed by a Litter in the same Taste, and by a magnificent Coach drawn by six dapple grey Horses. On the Sides of the Pope's Chair march'd two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, and the Light-Horse clos'd the March. In this Manner did the Pope make his Entry to the _Vatican_ Palace.