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THE

MEMOIRS

OF

_CHARLES-LEWIS_,

Baron de POLLNITZ.

BEING

The OBSERVATIONS He made in his late TRAVELS from _Prussia_, through

_POLAND_, _GERMANY_, _ITALY_, _FRANCE_, _SPAIN_, _FLANDERS_, _HOLLAND_, _ENGLAND_, &c.

Discovering not only the PRESENT STATE of the Chief CITIES and TOWNS;

BUT

The CHARACTERS of the PRINCIPAL PERSONS at the Several COURTS.

VOL. IV.

_LONDON_:

Printed for DANIEL BROWNE, at the _Black Swan_, without _Temple-Bar_; and JOHN BRINDLEY, at the _King's-Arms_, in _New Bond-street_.

M. DCC. XXXVIII.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

MEMOIR 1

APPENDIX 301

INDEX 356

MEMOIRS

OF THE

Baron DE POLLNITZ.

VOL. IV.

_To Madame_ DE ----.

The Conduct of the Court of _Spain_, tho' it really made the Court of _Vienna_ uneasy, did not hinder the Emperor from carrying on the War against the _Turks_ with Vigour: And Heaven so prosper'd the Imperial Arms, that in 1718 Prince _Eugene_ gain'd the most signal Victory near _Belgrade_ that the Christians could have hop'd for. Soon after that Battle the victorious Troops reduc'd _Belgrade_, and at length the _Turks_ were forc'd to sue for a Peace: While every Thing seem'd to have a Tendency that way, _Spain_ put to Sea the most formidable Fleet she had ever equipp'd since that unfortunate one call'd, _The Invincible Armado_; and sent it to the Coast of _Sicily_, where it put a numerous Army on Shore, under Command of the Marquis _de Lede_. The Count _de Maffei_ Viceroy of the Kingdom for the Duke of _Savoy_, who was King of _Sicily_, made all the Resistance possible, considering the Weakness of his Army; and tho' not able to save the Island, yet he made such a Defence as hinder'd the _Spanish_ Army from pushing its Conquests farther by giving Time to Admiral _Bing_, who commanded the _English_ Fleet, to enter the _Mediterranean_, and execute the Orders he had to attack the _Spanish_ Fleet. These Orders imported, that he was to act in a friendly manners in case that _Spain_ desisted from its Enterprizes against the Neutrality of _Italy_; but otherwise to make a vigorous Resistance. Admiral _Bing_ communicated these Orders to Cardinal _Alberoni_, who answer'd him gravely, _That he had nothing to do but to put them in Execution_. The Admiral did so with a Vengeance; for on the 11th of _August_ he gave Battle to the _Spanish_ Fleet, and intirely defeated it. As soon as the Duke Regent was inform'd of the News, he sent away a Courier to the _French_ Ambassador at _Madrid_, with Letters from the Earl of _Stairs_ to the _English_ Ambassador Earl _Stanhope_. The Design of his Royal Highness was to engage the latter to return to _Madrid_, from whence he set out on the 27th of _August_, that he might make fresh Instances there for a Peace with Cardinal _Alberoni_, who to be sure was a little stunn'd at this Reverse of Fortune. But the Earl, whether he did not meet the Courier, or whether he did not think it proper to return to _Spain_, arriv'd at _Paris_ on the 9th of _September_.

Mean Time the War betwixt the Emperor and the _Turks_ was at an End, and Orders were actually given for sending the Imperial Troops into _Italy_. The Regent despairing at that Time of persuading the King of _Spain_ to a Peace, order'd the Abbat _du Bois_, the _French_ Ambassador at _London_, to sign the Treaty commonly call'd _The Quadruple Alliance_, in Conjunction with the Ambassadors of _England_ and the Emperor. He also repeated his Orders to the Duke of _St. Aignan_, to try all the means imaginable to prevail on the King of _Spain_ to accede to the Terms that were propos'd to him by the Quadruple Alliance; but his Catholic Majesty persisted so long in his Refusal, that his Royal Highness resolv'd to declare War against him, and the Duke of _St. Aignan_ had Orders to demand his Audience of Leave.

At that Time the Regent happily discover'd a Conspiracy that was form'd against him in the very Heart of the Kingdom. The King of _England_ had before appriz'd him, that there was some Contrivance on Foot; but the Names of the Conspirators, and what they were to do, was a Secret. Mean time the Regent suspecting that all these Intrigues were only fomented by the Minister of _Spain_, he caus'd the Prince _de la Cellamare_, Ambassador from that Crown, to be so narrowly watch'd that he was soon let into the Secret of the whole Intrigue carrying on against him, which was in short no less than to remove him from the Regency. The _Spanish_ Minister for the better Success had caus'd a Body of Troops to be assembled in _France_, where they stroll'd about like Fellows that dealt in unlicens'd Salt, and other Contraband Goods; but upon a particular Day they were to enter _Paris_, invest the Royal Palace, and to secure the Person of the Regent. The Conspiracy was detected almost at the same Instant that it was to have been executed; and of this the Prince _de Cellamare_ himself was partly the Cause; not that I suspect him of having betray'd the _Spanish_ Minister, but probably he was too credulous of every one that came to him; for I was told, that the Pacquet containing the whole Mystery of the Conspiracy, and the Names of the Conspirators, was put into the Hands of the Abbat _Portocarrero_, in Presence of a Couple of Domesticks, whose infidelity was not perhaps Proof against the Lewidors of the Royal Palace. Besides, this Abbat, tho' a Person of Merit, had not perhaps Experience or Wisdom enough to behave as was absolutely necessary in so ticklish an Affair. Be this as it will, he set out for _Madrid_ with such Dispatches committed to his Care as contain'd the Fortunes of a great Number of People. He had not travell'd far, when, as he was passing a Ford, his Chaise broke, and he had like to have been drown'd; but notwithstanding the Danger of his Person, he seem'd to be more in Pain for his Trunk than for his Life. This Earnestness for the Preservation of his Trunk gave a Suspicion to those who attended him; and the Spies whom the Regent had planted upon him, advertis'd that Prince of it time enough for him to give his Orders to the Commandant of _Poictiers_ to cause him to be arrested, and his Trunk to be secur'd. The Abbat was accordingly arrested[1], and brought back to _Paris_. The Prince _de Cellamare_, being inform'd of what had pass'd, claim'd the Trunk, saying it contain'd the Memoirs of his Embassy: He was given to understand, that his Word was not to be taken, and the Trunk being open'd at the Royal Palace, there was all the Scheme of the Conspiracy, and the List of the Persons that were enter'd into it. The Thing that gave the Regent most Vexation was, to see the Names of Persons there, upon whom he had heap'd his Favours. His Royal Highness acted in this delicate Conjuncture with all the Moderation possible, and his Behaviour was in every Respect so discreet, that it was hardly discernible that any Thing extraordinary was passing in _France_; he caus'd the Abbat _Portocarrero_ to be releas'd, as an insignificant Tool; but as to the Prince _de Cellamare_, he was invited to a Conference at the Royal Palace, to which he no sooner arriv'd, but Messengers were sent to clap a Seal on his Effects. The Ministers went with him afterwards to his own House, where he was surpriz'd to find a Guard that was charg'd to be answerable for his Person. Some Days after this, all his Papers were examin'd, and Three Boxes were fill'd with them in his Presence, which were seal'd and carry'd to the _Louvre_, there to be kept till the King of _Spain_ sent Persons that he could confide in to fetch them. At length on the 13th of _December_, the Prince _de Cellamare_ set out from _Paris_ with a Guard: As for the Smugglers, they vanish'd as soon as the Conspiracy was brought to Light: All this pass'd in the Month of _December_, 1718.

The 29th of the same Month the Duke and Duchess of _Maine_ were arrested: The Duke had been the Day before to pay a Visit to the Duchess of _Orleans_ at the Royal Palace, and stay'd there Three Hours, after which he return'd to lye at _Seaux_; where next Morning a Lieutenant of the Guards came and told him, that he had Orders to carry him under a strong Guard to the Castle of _Dourlens_. The same Day at Seven in the Morning, the Marquis _D'Ancenis_, who was Captain of the Guards after the Death of his Father the Duke of _Charost_, during whose Life he had the Post in Reversion, had an Order to arrest the Duchess of _Maine_: This Officer had supp'd but the Night before with the Princess, and stayed with her very late; guess then how he must be surpriz'd when he came Home, and found the _Letter de Cachet_ or Warrant, which put him upon an Office that he would have been glad to be excused from serving; but the Order must be obeyed, and therefore he went next Day to the Princess's Apartment, who was then in Bed, as were also her Ladies; so that the Servants were very much startled to see M. _D'Ancenis_ there again so early, and scrupled at first to awake the Duchess; but, as they imagined the Marquis was come about an Affair of great Consequence, the Ladies let him in: The Princess, being wak'd out of her Sleep by the Noise of the Door, as it open'd, ask'd, Who was there? M. _D'Ancenis_ having told her his Name, she said to him hastily, _Oh! my God! What have I done to you, that you should disturb me so soon in the Morning?_ He then told her the melancholy Commission that he was sent upon. They say, her Ladyship was much more provok'd at this Disgrace than the Duke her Husband; and she could not help dropping some Words which shew'd plain enough that she was impatient under her Misfortune. However, she was quickly dress'd, and getting into a Coach with Three of her Waiting-Women, she was conducted to the Castle of _Dijon_: All her chief Domestics were committed, some to the _Bastille_, and others to _Vincennes_. The Prince of _Dombes_ and the Count _de Eu_ were banish'd to _Eu_, where they had so much Liberty however, that this Change of Fortune had not altogether the Air of Disgrace. As for _Maidemoiselle de Maine_, the Princess of _Conty_ took her Home with her. The Cardinal _de Polignac_, who was very much attach'd to the Family of _Maine_, also shar'd their Fate; for he was banish'd to his Abbey of _Anchin_, and had but Two Hours allow'd him to set his Affairs in Order.

While these Things pass'd in _France_, the King of _Spain_, or rather his Minister, caus'd the Duke of _St. Aignan_, the Ambassador of _France_, to be very ill treated, who having taken Leave of the King and Queen, stay'd some Days longer to settle his domestic Affairs, perhaps also to see what Turn Things would take, in case the King of _Spain_, who was then dangerously ill, should die. I am assur'd that the King having told him, that by his Will he left the Regency to the Queen and Cardinal _Alberoni_, the Ambassador made Answer, That his Testamentary Settlement might probably be of as little Effect as _Lewis_ XIV's was. This Answer displeas'd the Cardinal, who thought of nothing but of being reveng'd; and indeed some time after, the Marquis _de Grimaldo_, Secretary of State, went to the Duke of _St. Aignan_, and signify'd an Order to him from the King, to leave _Madrid_ in Twenty-four Hours, and the Kingdom in Twelve Days. 'Twas 10 o'Clock at Night when this Order was notify'd, and next Day, _viz._ the 14th of _December_, at 7 o'Clock in the Morning, the Ambassador's House was surrounded by a Party of Life-Guards, commanded by an Exempt, who having plac'd Centinels at all the Doors of his Lodging, enter'd the Duke's Apartment, who was still a-bed with his Duchess, made them dress themselves with all Speed, and then conducted them out of the City.

Cardinal _Alberoni_, who did not yet know, that the Plot he had laid was discover'd, wrote with Speed to the Prince of _Cellamare_, that he might guess what to expect after the Treatment that had been shewn to the Ambassador of _France_; tho' he told him, that ought not to be a Reason for using him in the same manner, and that the Duke _de St. Aignan_'s Misbehaviour had made it necessary to take that Course with him. He exhorted him not to stir from _Paris_, till he was compell'd to it by Force, nor even then, till he had made all the convenient Protests. He said to him in the Conclusion, _Put the Case that your Excellency be oblig'd to go, you will first set Fire to all your Mines_. Little did he think how terribly they were at that Time countermin'd!

This Letter, which was a farther Confirmation of the Prince _de Cellamare_'s Conspiracy, and the Affront put upon the Ambassador of the most Christian King, intirely convinc'd the Regent, that the _Spanish_ Minister was resolv'd to go all Lengths. War was declar'd on both Sides, in which _Spain_ did not come off with Honour. I shall have further Occasion to speak of it to you some Time hereafter.

I am next to give you an Account, how it far'd with myself at this Time: Tho' I had no Hand in this Plot, yet I was shrewdly suspected; for several Conferences were held at my House: I was intimate with those who were deepest in the Secret, and in Fine, whether it proceeded from Prudence, or from a Panic, I resolv'd to take Care of myself. I set out from _Paris_ in a very great Hurry, with a Design to repair to the Palatine Court, and stay there till the Storm was quite over. I went to _Germany_ thro' _Lorrain_, but had much ado to get thither, because I had no Passport, and Orders were arriv'd from Court, to stop all that travell'd without one; I therefore thought of the following Stratagem.

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About a League from _Toul_, which is the last Place in _France_, I feign'd myself sick, that I might have some colour for halting there, and dismissing my Postilion. At that Village I lay all Night, and rising very early next Morning, I told my Landlady that I would go to _Toul_ on Foot, and desir'd her to send my Boots according to a Direction I left with her. My Design was to go into _Toul_ as a Townsman; for I hop'd, that my being on Foot, and not having the Air of a Traveller, I should pass without Molestation; but I was quite mistaken; for the Guard stopp'd me, and ask'd me, Who I was, and, Wither I was bound? I said, That I was a _German_, that I had been the _Valet de Chambre_ of a _German_ Nobleman, who dy'd at _Paris_, and that I was returning from thence Homewards. The Officer carry'd me before the King's Lieutenant, who, I thought, was a mere Brute; yet I think I should be in the Wrong to complain, for I gave myself out for a Footman, and really as such he treated me: He put several Questions to me, which I always made Answer to like a most submissive Lackey, in Hopes of soothing his sullen Humour; but nothing could defend me from his Reproaches: _You are not a Footman_, said he, _I rather believe you are some Bankrupt; therefore tell me the Truth, or I'll instantly throw you into a Dungeon._ I still affirm'd, that I was a Footman; but the Lieutenant, not well pleas'd with my Answer, committed me to the Guard-House, where he left me Five or Six Hours, and then sent me Word, that I might go to an Inn: I was conducted thither by a Soldier, who was always a Guard upon me, and next Day carry'd me again before the King's Lieutenant, who took me into his Closet, and told me, 'Twas to no Purpose for me to think of concealing myself any longer from him; for that he was just inform'd who I was, by a Person who knew me. I own, _Madame_, that I began to be afraid, yet I stood to my Text still, with all the Assurance that could be. He then call'd one of his Domestics, and bid him fetch the Man that knew me; but 'twas well for me, that this Person had no Existence but in his Imagine. Mean Time he seem'd to be out of Patience that he did not come; and at last told me, that I must return to the Guard-House, and not stir from thence till I had fully satisfy'd him who and what I was. Then I happen'd to hit upon an Expedient which prov'd a lucky one; I told him, That I was very willing to remain in Custody till I had receiv'd an Answer from the Landlady of the Inn where my Master dy'd, who would make good what I had affirm'd. Upon this he order'd Paper to be given me; and I wrote in short to my Landlady at _Paris_, by the Name of a _Valet de Chambre_, whom I left there when I came away. As she was a Woman of quick Apprehension, and knew my Hand-Writing, I persuaded myself that she would easily comprehend the Meaning of it. When my Letter was finish'd, I shew'd it to the King's Lieutenant, who read it, and told me, That he would undertake both for its Delivery, and an Answer to it. In the mean Time he remanded me back to my Inn, and in Two Hours after, sent to tell me, that I might pursue my Journey. You will naturally imagine, that I took him at the first Word. I accordingly walk'd out of _Toul_ on Foot, but I hir'd a Horse at a Village belonging to the Principality of _Elboeuf_, and went to _Nancy_, where I had the Precaution to provide myself with a Passport, which the Innkeeper, where I lay, procur'd me, by the Name of a certain Merchant of that City. I did not think fit to go to _Strasbourg_, where perhaps I might have been known; but went to _Haguenau_; from thence to _Fort Louis_, where I pass'd the _Rhine_; and at last arriv'd at _Heidelberg_ in the Beginning of the Year 1719.

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The Palatine Court resided at _Heidelberg_[2], but 'twas not the same Elector that I had the Honour to mention to you before, for he was dead, and was succeeded by his Brother Prince _Charles_, who kept a numerous and magnificent Court, and was the Darling of all his Family. He was so good to his Domestics, that there are few such to be found among Princes; and yet without debasing his Rank, of which he understood every Part of its Dignity, and perfectly knew how to have the Respect paid that was due to him: Being withal generous, good-natur'd, affable and charitable; he lov'd People should speak to him with Freedom. He was very regular in his Conduct, even to a Degree of Devotion, yet in no respect an Enemy to Pleasures; on the contrary, he often procured them for his Court; and he was especially fond of Dancing, which he perform'd indeed too well for a Prince.

The Elector has had Two Wives, but he has had only one Child, a Daughter, marry'd to the Hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_, who is the Elector's presumptive Heir. She is a very lovely Princess, tho' somewhat pitted with the Small Pox; she is not tall, but perfectly well-shap'd; she is complete Mistress of every Thing which young Princesses are usually taught; she dances and sings with a very good Grace, and especially the _Italian_ Airs, which she plays at the same time to Perfection upon the Harpsichord. The Prince her Husband was a clever handsome Man, and his Outside was a sufficient Indication of his Endowments: He had so grave an Air, that one would be apt to suspect him of a little Austerity, yet this did not render him a whit the less polite; and, above all Things, he was very civil to Foreigners. He shew'd an extraordinary Respect to the Elector, who, on his Part, gave him all the possible Marks of a Tenderness for him. This young Prince had a Son by this Marriage, who dwelt at _Neubourg_, where he had been brought up; it being apprehended that the Fatigues of Travelling would be hurtful to his Health, but, notwithstanding this Precaution, the young Prince dy'd in 1724.

The Elector was a very early Riser; as soon as he was up, he spent some Time in Prayer; then the Great Chamberlain or Grand Master of the Wardrobe talk'd to him about Affairs of State, or such as were Domestic; when those Gentlemen were retir'd, the Prince employed himself in reading Dispatches, or in Writing; after which he dress'd himself: About 11 o'Clock he went to Mass, accompany'd by the Prince his Son-in-Law, and the Princess his Daughter: When he held a Council there, 'twas after Mass was over: Upon other Days he play'd at Billiards till Dinner-time, which held a long while, and sometimes a little too much was drank at it; which indeed they could not well help, the Wine there was so delicious. After Dinner was over, his Electoral Highness went with the Princess his Daughter to her Apartment, where he stay'd a little while, and then retir'd to his own, where he caus'd himself to be undress'd, and went to Bed for a few Hours. About 5 or 6 o'Clock in the Evening he was dress'd, after which he gave public Audiences, or else apply'd himself to something in his Study. At 7 o'Clock he went into the Assembly Room, where he found the Princess and the whole Court; and after having chatted some Time, he sate down to Picquet, or to a Pair of Tables; but when the Game was over, he retired, and the Princess went to Supper.

In the Afternoon, when the Elector was withdrawn, the Princess went into her Lady of Honour's Apartment, where there was always a great Assembly, and often a Concert, in which the Princess sung some _Italian_ Song or other, together with _Signora Claudia_, one of her Waiting-Women. This little Concert was made up also of some Musicians selected out of the Elector's Band, and is one of the completest that I ever heard. The Prince of _Sultzbach_ assisted at it sometimes; but he most commonly retir'd to his Apartment at the same Time that the Elector did to his.