part did not love Reprimands, and therefore I thought it best to keep out

of her way. Mean time the very same reason that determined me the first time to take a Journey to my own Country still subsisted, and at last I quitted _Paris_ in good earnest, tho’ I was resolv’d to be absent as little a while as possible.

I went the common Road to _Brussels_, and from thence through _Breda_ and _Gorcum_, to _Utrecht_; having a desire to see in what state the Congress was, which was then held at that place.

BREDA, which is a Place of Strength, situate on the River of _Mercke_, is part of _Dutch Brabant_, and one of the most considerable Towns in the _Netherlands_. This City and its Territory has the Title of a Barony, and has had several Masters. The last Owners of it were the Princes of _Nassau_, who acquired it in 1404, by _Eagelbert_ of _Nassau_’s Marriage with _Joan_ the only Daughter of the Lord of _Leck_, who was Sovereign of _Breda_. _Henry de Nassau_ founded the Castle in this Town, and the Tomb of _René_ is still to be seen in the Collegiate Church of St. _Peter_, which was founded about the Year 1303. This City suffer’d very much towards the latter end of the sixteenth Century, during the Wars for Religion. ’Twas at first seiz’d by the Confederates, who form’d the Republic of the United Provinces. The Prince of _Parma_ took it from them the 18th of _June_ 1581; but Prince _Maurice_ of _Orange_ made himself Master of it in 1590, by means of a Boat laden with Turf, under which he had caus’d about threescore Soldiers to be conceal’d, who made themselves Masters of the Castle, and thereby gave the Prince an Opportunity to take the Town by Capitulation. They tell a very remarkable Story of one of the Soldiers that was hid in that Boat, _viz._ That having a Necessity of coughing, he desir’d one of his Comrades to kill him outright, for fear that his impertinent Cough should discover the Stratagem. This Soldier richly deserv’d to have his Name transmitted to Posterity; for sure a _Roman_ could not have said a more gallant Thing, and an Instance of inferior Courage to this would perhaps have been rewarded with a Statue. Some Years after the Reduction of _Breda_, the great _Spinola_ General of the _Spanish_ Forces, besieg’d and took it after a Siege, or rather Blockade of eleven Months. ’Twas a fourth time besieg’d by _Frederic-Henry_ Prince of _Orange_, who took it after a Siege of four Months, and then it came into the hands of the _Dutch_, who have remain’d Masters of it ever since, and have considerably augmented its Fortifications; and as the Place is situate in very Marshy Ground, they have erected Sluices there, by means of which they can easily lay all the neighbouring Country under Water. For the rest, this is not one of the best built Cities in the _Netherlands_, and were it not for its Ramparts would be a very inconsiderable Place. The King of _Prussia_, by virtue of his Pretensions to the Succession of _William_ III. King of _England_, adds to his Titles that of _Baron of Breda_.

Having pass’d through _Gorcum_, which I thought a Town of very little consequence, I came to UTRECHT[43], which is one of the most noted Cities in the _Netherlands_, and gives Name to one of the seven Provinces, whereof it is the Capital. It was formerly a Bishop’s See, and the Bishops were Sovereigns of the Province, and Princes of the Empire. The Dukes of _Brabant_ and _Cleves_, the Counts of _Holland_ and _Guelderland_, and other Sovereigns to the number of twenty-eight, were Feudataries to its Bishop. The Emperor _Charlemain_, that great Founder of Bishoprics, annex’d so Many Prerogatives to this with a View of engaging the Bishops to act with Zeal for Conversion of the _Pagans_ who possess’d a Part of the Neighbouring Countries. _Philip_ II. erected this Bishopric into an Archbishopric in favor of _Schenck_ of _Tautenbourg_; but he did not enjoy the new Dignity long, for at the same time that this Country revolted from _Spain_, the Protestant Religion was introduc’d into it, and the Archbishop was expell’d. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_ was the last Bishop who was Sovereign of this Country, but his Subjects rebell’d against him and turn’d him out. This Bishop implor’d the Protection of _Charles_ V. to whom with the Consent of his Clergy and States he transferr’d the Temporal Dominion of the Country in 1528, and from thence he was translated to the Bishopric of _Worms_. The famous Union of the seven Provinces, to which the Establishment of the Republic is owing, was concluded at _Utrecht_ the 13th of _January_, 1579.

The City of _Utrecht_ is famous also for the Birth of Pope _Adrian_ VI, in 1459. They say this Pontiff was of mean Extraction, and was only oblig’d to his own Merit for his Advancement. The Emperor _Maximilian_ trusted him with the Education of _Charles_ his Grandson. He was afterwards sent to _Spain_ with the Title of Ambassador to King _Ferdinand_, who gave him the Bishopric of _Tortosa_. Upon that Monarch’s Death he shar’d the Regency of _Spain_ with the Cardinal _Ximenes_, and afterwards remained sole Viceroy of that Kingdom. He was made a Cardinal the first of _July 1517_, by Pope _Leo_ X. and chose Pope the ninth of _January 1522_.

While I am thus making Digressions in speaking of the City of _Utrecht_, you will also permit me to tell you that this City gave birth to the famous _Anna-Maria Schuurman_, that learned Lady who spoke _Latin_, _Greek_, _Hebrew_, the _Syriac_, _Chaldee_, _Italian_, _Spanish_, and _French_ Languages as fluently as the _Low Dutch_, which was her Mother-Tongue. She also knew how to paint in Miniature, and to engrave both with the Graving Tool and the Diamond upon Copper and Glass. Queen _Christina_ of _Sweden_ did her the same Honor, as _Alexander_ formerly did to _Diogenes_, for she went to pay her a Visit, and was surpriz’d at the Beauty of her Performances. This most ingenious Artist of her Sex died in 1678, at 71 Years of Age.

_Balderic_ of _Cleves_ the fifteenth Bishop of _Utrecht_, caus’d this City to be encompass’d with Walls; and _Charles_ V. built its Castle, which has at present nine Bastions, two Half-moons, and a Hornwork. They say that the great Church dedicated to St. _Martin_, was built in the Year 630 by King _Dagobert_; and after it was destroy’d, together with all the other Buildings in the City by the _Normans_, _Adelbolde_ the 19th Bishop caus’d it to be rebuilt and consecrated in 1024, in presence of the Emperor _Henry_ II. and twelve Bishops. It was ruin’d a second time, but was magnificently rebuilt. There’s a very fine Tower at the Entrance 388 Foot high, from whence fifteen or sixteen Towns may be seen distinctly.

There’s a better Air at _Utrecht_ than in the other Towns of _Holland_, the Ground it stands on being much higher, and by consequence not so marshy. This Town, which is situate upon the old Channel of the _Rhine_, is incompass’d with a fine fruitful Plain, and has charming Walks in the Neighbourhood, which are not inferior to those at the _Hague_.

The _French_ were at one time Masters of this Place, but on the 13th of _November_ 1673, it reverted to its lawful Sovereigns. When I arriv’d here I heard that the Peace was just sign’d by the Plenipotentiaries of _France_ and _Spain_ on the one part, and by the Ministers of _England_, _Portugal_, _Prussia_, _Savoy_ and _Holland_, on the other part. The principal Conditions were, That _Philip_ V. should remain in possession of the Crown of _Spain_, on condition nevertheless that he should renounce the Succession to the Crown of _France_, for himself and his Descendants: That _England_ should have _Gibraltar_ in _Spain_, and _Port-Mahon_ in the _Mediterranean_: That _Dunkirk_ should be demolish’d: _France_, by the way, was very loth to consent to the ruin of a Place which had already cost her several Millions, and requir’d a considerable Expence moreover to demolish. The Elector of _Brandenburg_ was recogniz’d King of _Prussia_, both by _France_ and _Spain_, and had even the Title of _Majesty_ given him, which _France_ never us’d to allow to the Kings of _Denmark_ and _Poland_. To the King of _Prussia_ was also yielded what he before possess’d in _Spanish Guelderland_, as an Equivalent for the Principality of _Orange_, which that Monarch yielded to _France_. The Duke of _Savoy_ was own’d King of _Sicily_, and he obtain’d some Places in the _Milanese_. The King of _Portugal_ remain’d peaceable Possessor of the Conquests which he had made during the War. The _Dutch_ got least of all by the Peace, and perhaps they repented that they did not accept of the Terms offer’d them at _Gertruydenberg_.

As soon as I arriv’d at _Utrecht_, I did not fail to make a Visit to the Ambassadors of _Prussia_, who were the Count _de Denhoff_, the Count _de Metternich_, and the Marshal _de Biberstein_. They receiv’d me with all the Civility possible, and presented me to all the Foreign Ministers. I found at this City the Countess Dowager of _Wartemberg_, who was lately come hither. The Count her Husband, who died at _Francfort_, desir’d upon his Death-bed that his Corpse might be carried to _Berlin_, which was perform’d with a good deal of Pomp. They say, that the late King, who was very fond of him, as I have already had the Honor to mention to you, wou’d needs see his Funeral Convoy; and as it pass’d before the Windows of his Castle he could not refrain shedding Tears. Perhaps he then repented that he had disgrac’d that Minister on such slight Pretences; and perhaps too, the melancholy Spectacle put him in mind of that unavoidable Coast, on which both the Majesty of Kings, and the Magnificence of Courtiers, will at last be run ashore.

The Countess of _Wartemberg_ was more undaunted. She was far from indulging any mortifying Reflection; but on the contrary, was glad to find her self in possession of a very great Estate; and gladder still to think that she was uncontroulable. She left _Francfort_ where she had resided ever since her Husband’s Disgrace; and thinking that too melancholy a Place to spend her Life in, she made choice of the City of _Utrecht_, as the most gay of any that she knew. She soon had an Intrigue or two upon her hands; and when I arriv’d, I heard that the Chevalier _de B----_ was her Bosom Friend. This Gentleman was newly set out for _Versailles_, with a Commission to carry the News of the Peace. I was not much concerned whether I made any Visit to the Countess; for I observ’d that all of our Court who were then at _Utrecht_, were shy of her to such a degree, that I did not care to be the only one that shew’d any Regard for her. But tho’ I had resolv’d not to visit her, I happen’d to fall in her Way. This Lady had brought a _French_ Gentlewoman with her, whom I knew very well at _Berlin_; and as she had Wit at will, I had a mind to renew my Acquaintance with her, the rather because I had a Curiosity to know a little of the Countess’s History. The first time I paid her a Visit she made me an Offer to carry me to see the Countess of _Wartemberg_; which I refus’d in such a manner that she did not insist upon my going. But she thought fit to tell the Countess that I was lately come to _Utrecht_; that I had paid her a Visit; and that she thought I perfectly resembled the Chevalier _de B----_. There needed no other Motive to set the Countess agog to see me; and she desir’d her Gentlewoman to bring me to her. But notwithstanding all her Persuasion, I peremptorily refus’d it. At last, as I was making a Visit one day to the Gentlewoman, who should bounce into the Room where I was, but the Countess _de Wartemberg_. She said, that tho’ I scorn’d her so much as not to make her a Visit, she had resolv’d to come and see me. I was going to reply, but the Countess, without giving me time to speak, told me, that she thought me alter’d much for the better; that no two drops of Water were more like than I, and the Chevalier _de B----_; and that in short we perfectly resembled each other even in the Tone of our Voice: But by Madam _de Wartemberg_’s leave, there never were two People more unlike. The Knight Commander was a handsome well-set Man, which you know, Madame, is a Character I never had the Vanity to affect; and I thought every part of the Countess’s Compliment so extraordinary, that in truth, a Scholar just come from the College could not have been more dash’d than I was. I made an Answer, ’tis true, but to tell you frankly, I knew not what I said. I gave her my Hand, and led her to her own Apartment, where she still descanted upon the mighty Resemblance betwixt the Chevalier and me. In fine, I think I may venture to say, without giving my self an Air as if I was the Darling of the Fair Sex, and without passing in your Opinion for a Coxcomb, that ’twas my own fault I was not taken, in Body and Soul, for the Chevalier; but I was so fortunate as to be disintangled by a Valet de Chambre, who came to acquaint her of the Arrival of M. _Menager_ the third Plenipotentiary of _France_ at the Congress, to whom I had Obligations for bringing me out of this Scrape. This kind of Visit made me take proper Measures to prevent any more such, for the little time I had to stay in this City.

From _Utrecht_ I went to _Wesel_, and from thence thro’ _Westphalia_ to the Duchy of MAGDEBOURG. The City of this Name was formerly an Archbishopric, erected by the Emperor _Otho_ the Great in favor of the _Vandals_ newly converted, but by the Peace of _Westphalia_ the whole Country was seculariz’d with the Title of a Duchy, in favor of the _Brandenburg_ Family, in Exchange for that part of _Pomerania_ which was yielded to the _Swedes_. There are few Towns in _Germany_ that have suffer’d so many Revolutions as _Magdebourg_. This City was put under the Ban of the Empire in 1553, by _Charles_ V. for refusing Submission to his Orders, for it was then in open Rebellion, so that the Elector _Maurice_ of _Saxony_ was sent to reduce it. The Siege lasted a whole Year, the Elector not being very much in haste to push on the Conquest. As this War was undertaken purely for the Destruction of the Protestant Religion, which this City had embraced; the Elector, who was himself a Protestant, thought by spinning out the Siege to regain the good Opinion of those of his Religion, who were uneasy to see him support the Interests of the Emperor and the Catholics. The Elector however made them easy, by promising the Protestants of _Magdebourg_, that he would join them in the War against the Emperor, immediately after the Surrender of the Place. Matters were transacted on both sides with very great sincerity. The Place surrender’d, and the Elector entered it not as a victorious Prince, but rather as an Ally who brought Relief to it. He made use of the Garison to reinforce his Army, and then declar’d War against the Emperor, on pretence that the Religion and Liberty of _Germany_ were in danger.

A Change of this nature was so extraordinary, that the Emperor could not expect it: For this Prince had himself promoted the Elector of _Saxony_ to the Dignity he possess’d, after having depriv’d the unfortunate _Frederic_ of his Dominions; and for so considerable a Present he might very well hope the Elector would have made him grateful Returns. The Emperor therefore was so far from thinking himself oblig’d to be on his Guard for fear of Surprise, that he imagin’d himself in a State of perfect Security, when the Elector of _Saxony_ had like to have surpriz’d him at _Inspruck_ the Capital of _Tirol_. The Emperor knew nothing of the Plot, till he was on the point of being made Prisoner; and ’twas with much ado that he escap’d, for he was at that time ill of the Gout, and oblig’d to leave both his Equipage and Domestics behind him. He would upon this occasion have given the Prince _John-Frederic_ his Liberty, but this Prince was loth to abandon him in this Misfortune, and accompany’d him into _Carinthia_, twenty-eight Leagues from _Inspruck_, where the Emperor made his Retreat.

The City of _Magdebourg_ was a very great Sufferer in the War, which is commonly call’d, _The War of thirty Years_, because during that Term _Germany_ was ravag’d on all sides. _Tilly_ the Emperor’s General besieg’d it in 1631, when ’twas taken by Storm, and all the Inhabitants put to the Sword. A Fire also had a part in its Destruction, and committed such Ravage that _Magdebourg_, which was one of the finest Cities in _Germany_, was intirely reduc’d to Ashes. The Burghers indeed had no body but themselves to blame for their Misfortune, for General _Tilly_ would not have treated them so severely if they had not refus’d an advantageous Capitulation, of which he made them an Offer some days before the Storm.

But since this Town has been in the hands of the _Brandenburg_ Family, the Electors have taken care to fortify it so well, that it would now be a hard matter to take it. The late King caus’d a Citadel to be built here, which is separated from the City by the _Elbe_. The present King has added considerable Works to it, which are remarkably substantial and magnificent. His Majesty has also caus’d a very fine Arsenal to be built in the Great Square, which tho’ not very large, is stor’d with a considerable number of Cannon and other Arms. On the Right hand of this Square is the Great Church, formerly the Cathedral, a _Gothic_ Building, where meets the Chapter which is still subsisting, tho’ Protestant; and according to ancient Custom, none are admitted into it but Men of Quality.

The Situation of _Magdebourg_ is very fine, having an Outlet on all sides to spacious Plains, that are very fruitful in Corn. The _Elbe_, which, as I have said, separates the Citadel from the Town, renders its Commerce also very easy with _Hamburg_, _Saxony_ and _Bohemia_, for which reason several Merchants are settled here who have noble Houses. And since the King has transferr’d the Regency of the Country hither from _Hall_, the Town grows every day finer, so that it may now be reckon’d one of the most beautiful Towns in the two Circles of _Saxony_.

From _Magdebourg_ in my Way to _Berlin_ I pass’d thro’ BRANDENBURG, which is a City on the River _Havel_, that was built by M. _Branden_, a Prince of _Franconia_. ’Twas heretofore a Bishopric, but now the whole Country is seculariz’d, and makes a part of the _Marquisate_ of _Brandenburg_. Here is a considerable Trade, and the King keeps a Garison in it, consisting of a Battalion of the tall Grenadiers. You have so often seen the Regiment of which this Battalion is a part, that ’tis needless to commend it to you farther than to observe, that ’tis perhaps the finest Regiment in _Europe_.

I did not stay at _Brandenburg_, because I would be the sooner at BERLIN. On the day that I arrived there I was so tir’d with having walk’d all Day and Night, that I kept my Bed till the Evening, when I had the Honor to wait on the Queen, the King having been gone a few days before to _Potzdam_, Her Majesty kept her Chamber, and had not been out of it since her last Lying-in, when she was deliver’d of the Princess _Charlotta-Albertina_, who died the Year following on the 10th of _June_. I was so coldly receiv’d by her Majesty, that I had no reason to hope for favor at Court, or at least with her Majesty. But the Margravines receiv’d me with all the Civility possible. The Margravine-Dowager especially assur’d me that she would continue that Protection with which she had always honor’d me.

As to the City of _Berlin_, it had not yet dry’d up its Tears for the Loss it had lately sustain’d, by the Death of _Frederic_. ’Tis true the King his Son gave great hopes, but the thorough Change he had made in his Court, caus’d the late King to be lamented. The new Monarch thought of nothing but keeping up a numerous Army, and that he might do this without laying a Burden upon his Subjects, he dismiss’d all his Court, and the intire Houshold of the King his Father, so that there was nobody at Court but the Ministers. Most of the Persons of Quality who lived heretofore at _Berlin_, were retir’d either to their Estates or their Governments, which made the City a most melancholy Place to stay in, and all these Alterations convinc’d me that there was nothing for me to expect in this Country. I therefore resolv’d to settle all my Domestic Affairs with the utmost speed, designing to return forthwith to _Paris_. Before I went thither, I made a Trip to _Zell_, in order to examine the Accompts of a Person I had deputed as my Attorney to receive the Deeds of my Mother’s Estate. But to my sorrow, my Mother had by her Will devis’d the greatest part of her Estate to the Children she had by her former Husband, so that what I could lay claim to was far short of what I promis’d my self.

From _Zell_ I went to HAMBOURG[44], purely to see that City. I had travel’d thither once before, but was then so young that I was not in a Capacity to take notice of any thing in this City worthy of Remark. _Hambourg_, which is one of the best Towns in _Germany_, is a part of Lower _Saxony_, being situate upon the _Elbe_ a few Leagues from the Mouth of that River, which is a great Conveniency to its Trade. Before it was erected into a Republic ’twas a part of _Holstein_, on the Territory of which it was built; and therefore it had frequent Quarrels with the Dukes of _Holstein_, and the Kings of _Denmark_, who are the Sovereigns of _Holstein_. The latter, as well as the _Swedes_, have attempted several times to make themselves Masters of _Hambourg_, but have been repuls’d as often as they came before it: For this City is not easy to be reduc’d, because it has noble Ramparts and very strong Out-works, and it also takes care to be well provided with Artillery, and a good Garrison. Moreover, ’tis always sure of the Protection of the Families of _Brandenburg_ and _Brunswic_, it being so advantagiously situated, that ’tis the Interest of both, that no Power whatsoever should take it.

_Hambourg_ is also very considerable on account of the Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are almost all Merchants, and much of the Temper of the _Dutch_ Merchants, very greedy of Gain and thrifty. Their greatest Delight is so have Gardens at the City-Gates, pretty much in the Taste of those of _Holland_. The Wives of the great Merchants are as much confin’d at _Hambourg_, as the Women of Quality are at _Venice_, but I observ’d they were only pent up from Foreigners. A Man may pass his time very well in this City, where there are several Persons of Quality to see, who make their Visitors perfectly welcome. The Walks in and about this City are charming, and especially that on the Ramparts is a noble one, there being a double Row of Trees which forms an agreeable Covert, and from whence there’s a Prospect finely diversify’d by noble Houses, Gardens, Woods, Meadows, _&c._ in the midst of which one sees the Rivers _Elbe_ and _Alster_, which both together yield a charming View. The River of _Alster_ comes into the Town and forms a Basin very like a great Pond, which has a fine Kay on the sides of it planted with several Rows of Lime-Trees, between which there’s a very fine Walk.

Near _Hambourg_ lies the Town of ALTENA[45]. The King of _Denmark_ gave it this Name to banter the Deputies of _Hambourg_ who made Remonstrances to him against his building this Town too near to theirs, and in their Discourse to the King about the Town said several times, _Sie ist al te na_, which in the Language of the Country signifies, _it is too near_. The King taking particular Notice of the Monosyllables _al te na_, said to the Deputies that he could not excuse himself from carrying on the Town which he was building, and that all he could do to oblige them was to order it to be call’d by the Name of _Altena_, which they themselves had given it. And indeed, a more significant Name could not have been put upon this Town, for ’tis situate just at the Gates of _Hambourg_, and is a part of _Danish Holstein_. It was formerly a priviledg’d Place for Bankrupts, and for all that had committed any Crime in _Hambourg_. But the present King of _Denmark_, rather than this Town should continue any longer in the Enjoyment of a Privilege which fill’d it with Knaves and Vagabonds, delivers up Malefactors to the Magistrates of _Hambourg_ whenever they reclaim them.

_Altena_ is remarkable for the Multiplicity of Religions which are there publickly exercis’d. I believe, that excepting _Amsterdam_, there is not a Town in _Europe_ where there are so many Sects; but few of ’em are allow’d a Church. The Neighbourhood of this Town to _Hambourg_, and its Situation moreover upon the _Elbe_, does great Prejudice to that City. ’Tis now several years since _Altena_ was burnt by the _Swedes_, under the Command of the Count _de Steinbock_; when they scarce allow’d Time to the Inhabitants to make their Escape; so that they had the Grief to be Eye-Witnesses of the burning of their Houses and Goods, and several Old Men, and a number of Infants perish’d in the Flames. I found _Altena_ in that sorrowful State when I first went thither; but upon a Review of it since, I see that ’tis rebuilt in such a manner, that ’tis now a finer and more flourishing Town than ever. After four or five days Stay at _Hambourg_ I set out, and never did any body go off at a more proper Time; for in a few days after it, the Plague discover’d it self in the City; upon which it was shut up, and its Communication forbid with any other Place.

I return’d thro’ _Zell_, where I made no manner of stay, to AIX-LA-CHAPELLE[46], an Imperial City, on the Confines of the Duchies of _Juliers_ and _Limbourg_. ’Tis encompass’d with Mountains, which form so pleasant a Vale, that _Charlemain_ chose rather to reside at _Aix-la-Chapelle_, than in either of the many beautiful Cities which he conquer’d. This Emperor caus’d a Collegiate Church to be built here, in which his Tomb is still to be seen; and the Memory of that Prince is to this day held in great Veneration. On the Festival of St. _Charles_, there’s a solemn Procession here, in which the Effigies of that Monarch is carried with an Equipage which excites Laughter rather than Devotion. The Preacher’s Pulpit in this same Collegiate Church is inrich’d with Plates of Gold; and they say that the Branch which hangs down before the High Altar is of the same Metal. ’Tis in this Church that many Emperors have been consecrated; and several of the Imperial Ornaments are still kept there. The Emperor is born Canon of the Church of _Aix_, and takes the Oath as such on the Day of his Coronation.

Certain Reliques are preserv’d at _Aix-la-Chapelle_, which are shew’d but once in seven years; and then they are expos’d to View from the top of a Tower in the City, during which the People gaze at them on their Knees, in the Squares and Streets leading to the said Tower. This Ceremony was perform’d when I was at _Aix_ in 1713, at which time there was a Concourse to it of an incredible number of Pilgrims from _Hungary_, _Tirol_, and all the Provinces of _Germany_. Persons of superior Rank are allow’d the Liberty of going up to the top of the Tower where those Reliques are expos’d, and may look near to them, but must by no means touch them. Of all that I saw, I only remember a Smock, which they affirm was the Virgin’s: There were some spots on it, which they said were the Stains of the Milk with which she suckled the Savior of the World. This Shift seem’d to be quite seamless, and made of a sort of Stuff which I know not how to describe to you, for it was neither of Linnen nor Callico.

The City of _Aix_ is very famous for its hot Baths, and for the Waters that are taken there twice a year, _viz._ in _Spring_ and _Autumn_; at which two Seasons there’s a great Resort hither of Foreigners. The Waters are hot, and of a very unpleasant Taste, and they smell like a rotten Egg; for which reason People are loth to take them when they first come; but after they are us’d to it, they go down very well. The Baths especially are wonderfully good against the Contraction of the Sinews and against Wounds. Nor is there a Place where the Waters are us’d with more Conveniency, there being plenty of every thing that one wou’d wish for, and especially good Company; for _Brabant_, _Liege_, _France_, _Holland_ and _Germany_, lie so near to it, that there’s always a great many People here, and very good Diversion.

I set out from _Aix_ for PARIS, by the way of _Maestricht_ and _Louvain_; but as I travell’d Post thro’ these Towns, I shall reserve the Description of them to you, till such time as I make a longer stay in them. On my Arrival at _Paris_ I was deeper in Love than ever. I was receiv’d by my dear Mistress with such Tokens of Love, as gave me all the reason in the world to think, that I was the happiest Man living: And in reality I was so, because at that time I knew of no other Happiness than to be in her good Graces; yet my natural Levity made me soon think otherwise. I saw the Marchioness _de P----_; and I will frankly own to you, that all the Veneration I had for _S----_ abated. I thought then there was nothing to compare with the new Object of my Passion. _S----_ quickly perceiv’d my Inconstancy, and reproach’d me for it; but they were Reproaches unmix’d with Gall, and such as nothing but Love can inspire. The consequence was, that my Passion for her reviv’d; and upon this occasion I was made sensible, that a Flame not well extinguish’d is always apt to burst out again; and that there needs no great Compulsion to renew the Passion of Love. The Sentiments of the Man of Honor being join’d to those of the Lover, I ask’d my own Conscience what _S----_ had ever done to disgust me. And in fine, I gave Judgment against my self, that I could not without Ingratitude forsake so amiable a Mistress. I took care, therefore, to absent my self by degrees from the Marchioness _de P----_; and found it no very hard matter to stifle a Passion, which, to speak plainly, was but a sudden Flash.

While I staid at the Court of _France_, I saw the Ceremony of the double Marriage of the Duke of _Bourbon_ and the Prince of _Conti_, who married each other’s Sister. The Duke married _Mary-Anne_ of _Bourbon-Conti_, Sister to the Prince of _Conti_, who married _Louisa-Elizabeth_ of _Bourbon-Condé_, the Duke’s Sister.

These Marriages made no addition to the Pleasures of the Court, and every thing remained very quiet, till News came of the Advantages which the Marshal _de Villars_ had gain’d over the Allies. This Campaign was both glorious and advantageous to the Marshal; and every body talk’d of the immense Sums of Money which he had put into his Pocket. His Conduct was narrowly pry’d into, and his Enemies charg’d that to him as a Crime, for which, perhaps, they would have commended any other General. They said that he brought with him several Waggons laden with Bandoliers for Safeguards; and that he got so much Money by this means, that at his Return he laid out 1,800,000 Livres in a Purchase. Nay, they had the Assurance to speak of it to the King, who said to the Marshal one day at Dinner, _That he heard he had bought a fine Estate. ’Tis true, Sir_, reply’d the Marshal, _I have just purchas’d a very pretty Estate_; _and if I have the Honor to command your Army next year, I hope to buy a more considerable one and make your Enemies pay for it_. This Answer quite broke the Measures of those who had endeavour’d to do the Marshal ill Offices. He knew very well that he had Enemies, but it gave him little Concern; for he was in high Favor, and he deserv’d it. They say that when he set out to make the Campaign in 1713, he said to the King at taking leave of him, _I desire your Majesty to remember, that while I am going to fight your Enemies, I leave your Majesty in the midst of mine._ He acquitted himself very bravely; and at length, by the Reduction of _Landau_ and _Fribourg_, he procur’d that Peace, by which the Electors of _Cologne_ and _Bavaria_ were restor’d to their Dominions.

After I had been some Months at _Paris_ I receiv’d Letters from _Berlin_, with Advice, that the King had Thoughts of forming his Houshold; and that I could not do better than to go and offer him my Service. I was not long in demurring upon what Course to take. I had always been bred up in Sentiments which convinc’d me, that to serve one’s Sovereign was preferable to any other Service; and besides, I always found my self naturally attach’d to the Family of our Kings. I therefore resolv’d to leave _Paris_ once more. You know my Humor so well, _Madame_, that you cannot think but it was with some Reluctance that I form’d a Resolution of this nature; and I will frankly own to you, that I was heartily grieved to leave a Place where I had my fill of Pleasures, which I knew I could not have a Taste of elsewhere: but at length I gave Attention only to my Duty; and tho’ the Tears which I saw shed for my sake melted my Heart, yet they were not powerful enough to make me alter my Design.

From _Paris_ to _Wesel_, I went the same Road that I came; and from _Wesel_ I proceeded to HANOVER, where I fell sick. My Design was to be _incog._ but the ill State of my Health oblig’d me to have recourse to a Physician; nay, I thought one while, that all the Remedies in the World would do me no good; and that ’twas high Time for me to prepare in good earnest for my last long Journey. My Kinswoman Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_ was soon inform’d of my Arrival; and as soon acquainted the Electoress of it, who was so gracious as to send to know how I did; and this she repeated twice every day as long as I was ill. This Princess always had a Kindness for me, which I shall for ever acknowledge. I was told, that during my Illness, _F----_ thinking to divert the Company at my Expence, said at the Elector’s Table, _That my Distemper was not mortal; that I had caught it in +France+; and that there were Surgeons at +Hanover+ who had Skill enough to set me to rights._ The Electoress was very angry with him, and said, _Sir, your Banter is absurd; if he had the Distemper that you say, he would have staid in +France+ for the Cure, since he is not ignorant, that the People of this Country go thither for the same Purpose; and he has too much Sense not to follow their Example_.

As soon as I was able to get abroad, I did not fail to wait on the Electoress with my most humble Thanks. That Princess gave me a much better Reception than I durst presume to have expected. The Kindness which she show’d to me, induc’d Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_ and Madame _de K----_ to think, that I might easily obtain Admission into her Service if I would but ask her; and accordingly those Ladies prevail’d on me to take that Step, tho’ I very much question’d my Success; and I found by Experience that my Suspicion was but too well grounded. I made my Application to the Princess by Letter; in which, perhaps, I acted indiscreetly, because I thereby gave her Leisure to take the Opinion of other People. Accordingly she did so; and to my misfortune applied to Madame _de B----_ who could not endure me; because, as I heard afterwards, _Madame_ of _France_ had acquainted the Electoress, that I told her the Electoral Prince had a particular Respect for her Ladyship. This was enough to exasperate a Person against me, who made outward Profession of the most rigid Virtue; and when the Electoress consulted her about me, she was transported to think what an infallible Opportunity she had to be reveng’d. She artfully insinuated to the Electoress, that she ought not to admit me into her Service, and did not want Reasons to back her Insinuations; the Desire of Revenge being what always supplies specious Arguments in abundance to hurt an Enemy. The Electoress so well approv’d of those she made use of to exclude me from her Service, that she order’d M. _de P----_ to tell me, _That she was very much oblig’d to me for the Attachment which I manifested for her Person; but that she could not imagine, that after I had serv’d a King, I should like to wait upon so old a Princess as she was: That ’twould be more suitable for me to be in the Service of her Son; and that she should take a Pleasure to help me to it: But that as for her self she must stay till she was Queen of +England+ before she could admit me into her Service; because, if that should happen, she should then be in a better Capacity to make my Fortune_. You perceive, _Madame_, this was a Refusal that I could not well complain of, ’twas so season’d with everything to take off the Bitterness of it. For my part, I own to you that I felt none. As I had only taken this Step in pure Complaisance to Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_, she was stung to the quick at this Denial; not so much for my sake (I knew very well what the matter was) but for her own; whose Vanity was very much mortify’d by it; for she thought her self in Favor, and saw ’twas a Favor without any Credit: And her Resentment proceeded so far, that she hinder’d me from taking Leave of the Electoress, who in a few days after set out for _Gohr_ with the Prince her Son. For my part I also set out from _Hanover_ for BERLIN.

When I came thither I found the King’s Houshold Officers already nominated, yet this did not hinder me from asking his Majesty for Employment. The Person who spoke for me was M. _de Printz_ the Grand Marshal, who brought me News of a Refusal of a very different sort from what I found at _Hanover_. In the latter, I had no reason to complain of the Electoress, who with all the Politeness possible refus’d me a Favor, which when all is said and done, I should not have valued, if I had not ask’d for it. But now I had a very cruel Repulse, by being deny’d the only thing for which I had undertaken the Journey to _Berlin_. The Behaviour of the Court to me in this Instance concern’d me not a little. I had never done any thing to seclude me from an Establishment in my own Country. My Ancestors had serv’d in it, and bore such a distinguish’d Rank in it too, that I might very well think some Notice would have been taken of me. Moreover, I had the Honour of being Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to the late King, but now had the Mortification of seeing Persons prefer’d before me who had never been seen at Court, and such too for most part as are of very obscure Birth. Finding therefore I had no hopes of succeeding at Court, I saw that I must go seek my Fortune elsewhere, and I thought of entring into the Service of the King of _Poland_. There was not a fitter Man upon earth to serve me with that Prince than his Prime Minister the Count _de Flemming_, who happen’d to be then at _Berlin_ upon his Master’s Affairs. I got my Friends to speak to the Count, and attended him constantly. That Minister seem’d inclinable to serve me, and promis’d to speak for me to the King his Master.

He set out for WARSAW the latter end of _November_, and thither I follow’d him; upon which he introduc’d me to the King, and to all the Court-Nobility. I cou’d not have set out better than I did at the Court of _Poland_. I was patronis’d by the Man who mov’d in the highest Sphere there, next to the King himself; and for that Reason every body strove to shew me Respect. The Count _de Flemming_ seem’d to be pleas’d at the Regard that was paid to me; at least, I was so short-sighted as not to perceive that it was to him a matter of very great Indifference. I was excusable in not suspecting him of double dealing with me; for hitherto I had no other Reason but to applaud his Generosity, and that Good-will which he had express’d to do me Service. Endeavors were not wanting to undeceive me, and I soon after saw with my own Eyes, that the fair Promises he made to me were nothing more nor less, than what they call _Court-Holy-Water_.

Not long after my Arrival at _Warsaw_, the King of _Poland_ set out for _Germany_. I thought my self bound in Interest to wait for his Return, in order to treat about my Affairs; and I spent this time at _Warsaw_ in the most agreeable manner that could be. I was soon known by all the _Polish_ Nobility, who were as civil to me as could be imagin’d. Every thing I beheld made me fancy I was at _Paris_, there being every where the same Politeness, and a certain easy Deportment which the _French_ think none are Masters of but themselves. The _Polish_ Ladies are very amiable, witty, and have a good deal of Sprightliness. With these Qualities, one would naturally imagine they are not indifferent to Pleasures; and I observ’d that they have a delicate and very exquisite Taste for every thing that passes under the Name of Diversions. They are passionately fond of Music, and still more of Plays. And at _Warsaw_ they have as much of both as they desire; for the King, who is a Prince as gallant as he is magnificent, takes care that every thing be done at Court, in a manner worthy of a great Prince. He maintains a Set of _French_ Comedians there; and moreover, frequently gives Balls and Concerts. These Diversions are generally attended with noble Feasts that the King makes for the Ladies of his Court; at which times, that Prince is always admir’d for his good Mien, and for that Gracefulness which sets off all his Actions.

The _Polish_ Lords are not near so gay as the Ladies; or, at least, they don’t come up to them for Elegance and Contrivance. Their Domestics and Equipage are generally slovenly; their Tables are indeed serv’d with Profusion, but without Delicacy, which I take to be intirely owing to the want of good Officers or skilful Cooks; for in other respects, _Poland_ is a Country, where there is as good Cheer as any in the World. Their Butcher’s Meat is delicious, and they have plenty of good Fish. Wine is not the Produce of the Country, but the want of it is not perceiv’d at the Tables of the _Polish_ Nobility, where the Wine of _Hungary_, tho’ very dear, is drank as common as Water. I observed one thing at the Generality of their Tables, that does not tally with the Grandeur which they pretend to, _viz._ That the Master of the House and his intimate Friends drink the best Wine, while the other Guests that are invited, are oblig’d to put up with the common sort. Tis to be observ’d, that tho’ _Poland_ abounds with all Necessaries for Life, yet ’tis a Country very inconvenient for Travellers, especially those who are not in a Capacity to carry every thing along with them. I have not seen a Place where there is so little Accommodation at the Public-Houses, there being hardly a Chair in them to sit down upon. Therefore the Travellers of any Fashion take care to carry all Necessaries with them. The Duke of _York_, Bishop of _Osnabruck_, said a very pertinent thing upon this occasion, _viz._ _That he did not know a Country where Travellers were more at home than in +Poland+, because they were always making use of their own Furniture_.

I heard that the King was shortly to go for _Dresden_, and therefore I set out thither immediately with the Count _de Hoim_, a Minister of State to his _Polish_ Majesty. In my Way to _Dresden_ I saw no Place of Note but _Breslau_ and _Leipsic_. BRESLAU, the Capital of _Silesia_, is a pretty large and very beautiful City, which in the Winter-Season is inhabited by a great Number of Nobility. The Count _de Flemming_ stopping there a couple of days, I halted there too. I saw very good Company here, especially at the Houses of the Count _de Maltzam_, and the Princess of _Teschen_, who was formerly the Princess _Lubomirski_. This Lady made a grand Figure, gave People a hearty Reception, and treated with Magnificence. I could have wish’d to have staid at _Breslau_ a few days longer; but as the Count _de Flemming_, by whose Patronage I hop’d still to get some Establishment at Court, was going to the King in _Saxony_, I went with him to the Fair at _Leipsic_, where the King and Queen were already arriv’d. As the King had been absent a good while, the Princes of the Blood, and a great number of Persons of Quality, came hither to pay their Respects to him; and after the Fair was ended, his Majesty return’d to _Dresden_, where he had not been long arriv’d, but he married the Count _de Saxony_ (his natural Son by the Countess of _Koningsmarck_) to Mademoiselle _de Loven_, who was a young Gentlewoman of a good Family, and one of the richest in _Silesia_. The Ceremony of this Marriage was perform’d in presence of the whole Court; and for several days the King gave Feasts answerable to his good Fancy and Magnificence. His Majesty is very fond of this Count of _Saxony_, who is one of the most amiable Gentlemen that I have seen; and besides, he very much resembles the King of _Poland_, which, to be sure, makes that Monarch the more in love with him.

DRESDEN[47] was then the Centre of the Pleasures of _Germany_, and the Plays, _&c._ exhibited here, made me almost think I was at _Paris_. I will not trouble you with all the Particulars of the several splendid Entertainments that were made in the Carnival Time, there having been enough written on that Subject already by other Pens. I shall have the Honor, therefore, to say nothing more of it to you, than that every Spectator was more charm’d with the King’s affable Behavior, than they were with the Beauty of the Representations, and the Splendor of the Feasts.

I should, no doubt, have had a better Relish for all these Pleasures, if I could have lik’d the Situation of my Affairs. I had all along conceiv’d Hopes of entring into the Service of _Poland_, and plac’d a very great Dependance on the Promises made by the Count _de Flemming_; but when I came to _Dresden_, I found the Face of Affairs quite chang’d. I put him in remembrance of his Promise; but he answer’d me in such a droll manner, as convinc’d me that I ought not to expect any great Matter from him. However, that I might have nothing to reproach my self with, I still continu’d to give him Marks of a very great Attachment to his Person. Yet I met with several Rebuffs, which did not discourage me; and which I had the more Reason to bear with Patience, because I knew that he treated his most trusty Confidents in the same manner. At last, not caring, perhaps, to do any thing of himself, he sent me to M. _de Lowendahl_ the Grand Marshal, and the latter referr’d me to M. _de Fitzthum_ the King’s Favorite. I was charm’d with this Gentleman’s Politeness and good Manners; and I don’t think there ever was a Favorite more obliging, and that took less upon him. Far from amusing me, he convinc’d me of the Impossibility there was of my obtaining any Place at Court, unless the King thro’ his special Grace should be inclin’d to prefer me; which could not be done neither, without disobliging several of the _Polish_ Noblemen, who likewise sollicited Places at Court, and seem’d to have a sort of Right to them by virtue of their Birth. I did not yet quite despair of Success; and as this was a Favor that could only be granted by means of the Count _de Flemming_, I had recourse again to that Minister; but I was never the nearer. To be sure I took a wrong time to speak to him about my Business, when perhaps he had other Affairs of greater Consequence that might ingross his Thoughts. In a word, he rebuff’d me to such a degree, as was sufficient to make me quite renounce my Pretensions. I took leave of the King and Queen, and prepar’d to go for _Berlin_.

But before I set out, an Adventure happen’d, which, together with my Vexation that I had not succeeded in my Designs, made me hate to stay any longer at _Dresden_, as much as I was in love with the Place when first I came to it. At _Leipsic_ Fair I had drawn a Bill of 300 Crowns, payable to the Bearer. The Person for whom I drew the Bill had given a Commission to a Merchant at _Dresden_ to receive that Sum. The Bill did not come to the Merchant’s Hands, till the very Day of my Departure; and as the Term was expir’d, he sent to my Quarters for the Money. I was not at home that Minute; and the Man hearing that I was to set out the same Day, made use of a Custom introduc’d and constantly observ’d in _Saxony_; which is, to arrest the Person that fails to answer a Bill of Exchange upon the Day appointed; so that just as I was going into my Chaise I was made a Prisoner. It happen’d to be about ten o’clock at Night. By Misfortune I had lost a great deal at Play this Carnival; and not having so much Money by me, I had recourse to the Count _de Flemming_; who lent it to me. This was the only time that I can be sure that Nobleman did me any Service. I repaid him soon after my Arrival at _Berlin_.

Without making a long stay at _Berlin_, I went and pass’d a few days at an Estate which I have, two Leagues out of that City; but the Uneasiness that haunted me every where, made me resolve to return to _France_, having still in View the getting some Establishment at _Berlin_ or elsewhere. While I was preparing every thing for my Journey, I had the Misfortune to break my Left Leg by a Fall from my Horse. This Accident, after the various Disgraces and Disappointments I had already suffer’d, Does it not, _Madame_, give you the Idea of another _Orestes_, pursu’d by Destiny from one Country to another? I could expect nothing more after this, than to fall into the Hands of some Quack of a Bone-setter, who, after putting me to Torture, would, perhaps, leave me a Cripple for all the rest of my Life. To tell you the plain Truth, I had some Apprehension of it; for a Man of my Kidney could not but be afraid of every thing in such a Case. However, whether it was owing to Hap-hazard, or to the Skill of the Surgeon, after suffering very great Torment, I was perfectly cur’d; and in such a manner, that I never felt any thing of it afterward. The ninth Day after my Fall I went to _Berlin_. As my Indisposition was such, that I could travel neither in a Chaise nor Coach, I hir’d Porters to carry me; so that my Entry was more than ordinary comic. This new Equipage surpriz’d all that saw it, the Children especially, who not being us’d to see such Carriages, follow’d me from the Out-parts of the City to my Lodgings; and as the Numbers swell’d by the Way, the Train consisted of at least 200 Followers, by that time I came home. I was very sensible, at my Arrival, that I had done wrong to be carried abroad so soon; for a Fever took me, and not long after an Imposthume gather’d, that bred the Distemper which they call in _France_ the _King’s Evil_. A fresh Reason this for my Complaint of the Severity of my Destiny; for in reality I suffer’d such Pains for above twenty Days, as are impossible for me to express.

As soon as I was in a Condition to go abroad, I waited on the Queen, who had just receiv’d Tydings, that the Elector of _Hanover_, her Father, was then call’d over by the _English_ to succeed the deceas’d Queen _Anne_. No doubt, _Madame_, you remember the Joy there was at Court upon this News. The King made an Offer to the new Monarch of any Assistance that he might have occasion for, to support him on the Throne. Some days after the Arrival of this great News, I took leave of the Queen, and set out for HAMBOURG.

I was very well receiv’d in this City by _L----_, who was at that time Envoy from _Prussia_ to the Circle of Lower _Saxony_. I knew him at a time when Fortune, as it were, frown’d upon him; but now it might be said, that she had loaded him with her Favors. He was glad to see me, and that he had an Opportunity of shewing me in what Grandure he liv’d. Since he had married a Woman, who was, indeed, very old, but very rich, he had been so wise as to make an Acquaintance with such as were capable of serving him; and whether ’twas owing to Money, or to mere Favor, he was quickly made a Minister of State; and in a little time after receiv’d the Key as one of the King’s Chamberlains. I was very well pleas’d to see him in so splendid a Situation; but could not help taking pity on him for being yok’d to a Wife so disagreeable. She was a Person, who with the Obstinacy and Ill-nature of Old Age, had all the Mettle of Youth, besides her being a perfect Original both in her Apparel, and in the Furniture of her House. Her Husband could never prevail upon her to dress as became a Person of her Rank, nor to alter any thing in her Furniture, tho’ ever so unpolite. I had the Pleasure one day that I was invited thither to Supper, of examining the Inside of the House at my Leisure. The Apartment where we supp’d was furnish’d in a very whimsical Manner. The first Room was lin’d with black Leather gilt, and round it were plac’d Chairs of green Taffety, adorn’d with Furbelows of a Rose Color. The second Chamber was hung with green Tapestry. The Chairs were of black Velvet, lac’d with Gold, and the Room was full of Crystal Sconces. At one End of it there was an Alcove hung with white Leather gilded, and in the Middle of the Alcove there was a Bed of a very extraordinary Fashion, which had no Curtains, but had four Pillars to support the Tester, and a Wooden Cornish at the top gilded; and the Whole was cover’d with Mother of Pearl and Tortoise-shell. The Bed had a Counterpane on it of black Velvet and Gold-Lace. In the four Corners of the Alcove were four Statues of white Marble, each holding a Wax-Candle. There were other Wax-Candles upon gilded Sconces, and a very fine Branch. The Whole, I assure you, look’d much more like a Room for lying in State, than a Chamber for Entertainment. We sat down, however, to Table; but this amiable Lady refus’d to be of the Company, and chose to stay behind a Door, which was in the Alcove, from whence she resolv’d to be a Spectatress of the Entertainment through the Chinks.

We were all heartily at Supper, and in very little pain for the Absence of our Landlady, when on a sudden there came from the Alcove a very ugly Figure, dress’d all in white. I was the first that perceiv’d it; and really, if I had given ever so little Credit to the haunting of Houses by Spirits, I should have thought I then saw one. The Whole perfectly resembled that Scene of the Knight in the _Festin de Pierre_, excepting nevertheless that we were not honor’d with the least Obeisance. I heard swearing and scolding at the Domestics, which made me suspect that it might be the Mistress of the House. Nor was I mistaken, we were obliged for this Apparition to a Wax-Candle that drop’d upon a Velvet Chair, which she perceiv’d from the Place where she was conceal’d, and stay’d some time, thinking that one or other of the Domestics would have remedied this Evil; but at last seeing that no body minded it, she resolv’d to come out her self to the Relief of the Chair. This Apparition was the Cause of a great Hurly-burly; the Lackeys excus’d themselves, because they were employ’d in waiting; and there were long and warm Disputes on both sides, betwixt the Mistress and the Servants, during which, the Guests, who rose in Respect to the Lady, were all the while standing. The Husband endeavor’d to pacify his dear Spouse, and made her sensible of the Situation in which she kept us; upon which, without making the least Compliment, she sate down at the Table, and I thought the Rage of the Storm was over; but far from it, she was no sooner seated than she began again to rave with more Fury than before. A Lackey, to whom, it seems, all this Bawling was more distasteful than it was to us, thought fit to tell her very bluntly, _That she made a great Noise for nothing_. Then the Lady was quite outragious, and went to give the Lackey a Blow with all the Weight of her Arm; but the Droll cunningly parry’d it, by receiving the Stroke upon a Plate he had in his Hand; which, as he manag’d it, serv’d him for a Shield. The Gentlewoman gave herself such a terrible Blow, that for one while she could not speak; and when she came to her self, she made a worse Racket than before. At length, the Lackey was turn’d out of the Room; and at that very instant, luckily for us, the Pain which the Lady felt for the Blow, increas’d to such a degree, that she was forc’d to retire. She was no sooner gone but we all burst out in a Laugh. The Husband himself was ready to split his Sides, and desir’d the Company to be under no manner of Restraint, but to talk as gayly of this Adventure as we pleas’d. Indeed we were heartily merry at the Expence of the Old Lady; but yet we were the greatest Losers by it in the end; for while we thought her a good way out of Hearing, she thought fit to stay at the Door to listen to what we said, which not being to her liking, she took an immediate Revenge, for she deprived us of the Dessert, and the poor Husband had not Interest enough to get another.

I was so gorg’d at this charming Repast, that for fear of a second Invitation I set out next Day for HANOVER, where I arriv’d the very Day before the new King set out for _England_. The Electoress, his Mother, to whom the Crown first belong’d of Right, died suddenly, as she was walking in _Herrenhausen_ Garden, not long before Queen _Anne_ died. The Elector her Son was recogniz’d King by the _English_, as the next Protestant Heir; for if the Catholics could have had any Right to the Crown, this Elector would have been but the 23d or 24th in the direct Line. The Nobleman who acquainted the Elector of his Advancement to the Crown was my Lord _Clarendon_, Envoy from the Queen of _England_ at the Court of _Hanover_. Perhaps it was with some Regret that he executed this Commission, being related to the _Stuart_ Family; and as it was generally thought, not very much inclin’d to the Family which now governs _England_. Be this as it will, he discharg’d the Commission with a good Grace. My Lord receiv’d the News that the _English_ had proclaim’d the Elector for their King, one Evening as he had been at Supper with that Prince at a House called _The Whim_, belonging to Madame _de K----_, now my Lady _L----_. As his Lordship came home he found a Courier just arriv’d with the Privy Council’s Orders to him, to recognize the Elector for King of _England_. He immediately got into his Coach, and went to _Herrenhausen_, where he found the Elector a-bed. His Lordship thinking ’twas worth while to awake the Elector, for the sake of telling him the News that so great a Diadem was fallen to him, enter’d his Bed-Chamber, and kneeling on the Floor, was the first that recogniz’d the Elector for King. This Prince immediately summon’d his Council. Many People were pleas’d to say, that the Elector hesitated for a good while, whether or no he should accept of the August Dignity that was offer’d to him; but for my part, I fancy, that the Voyage to _England_ was more the Subject of the Council’s Deliberation, than the Question, whether its Crown should be accepted.

After the Council was over, the new King was complimented upon his Accession to the Throne; and that very Instant he gave Orders to get every thing ready for his Departure, which was fix’d for the 11th of _September_. The Time between the Elector’s assuming the Royal Stile and his Departure, was spent in sending and receiving Couriers to and from the principal Courts of _Europe_. All the Nobility and Gentry, Subjects to the new Monarch, flock’d from all Parts to see him before he went away. This Prince was so well belov’d, that his Subjects were very sorry that he was going to leave them; but for his part, tho’ his People were not a little dear to him, he preserv’d that Tranquillity of Mind, and that Discretion, which govern’d all his Actions; and he seem’d no more concerned at parting with them, than he was elated with his new Dignity: but it was otherwise with the Prince his Son, who was so impress’d with the Fortune added to his Family, that I heard him say to an _English_ Gentleman, the Day before he went, _That he had not one Drop of Blood in his Veins but what was +English+, and at the Service of his new Subjects_.

On the 11th of _September_, early in the Morning, the King and the Prince of _Wales_ set out from _Herrenhausen_, amidst the Acclamations of the Court and the People, with which the Road was lin’d. They wish’d his Majesty all manner of Happiness, and accompanied him with their good wishes a good distance from _Herrenhausen_, before they took Leave of his Majesty. The last Farewels were attended with so many Tears, that the King could not help being a little mov’d; and he assur’d them, _That it should not be long before he would make a Tour to_ Hanover.

The King’s Retinue was not very numerous; for he only took with him such Persons as were absolutely necessary for his Service; and of these too, he sent some back, when he went on board the Yatcht that came for him to _Holland_, to carry him over to _England_. The Princess of _Wales_ follow’d the King some time after, with the Princesses her Daughters; but Prince _Frederic_ her Son remain’d at _Hanover_ for his Education.

When the King came to _London_, he found Subjects as much attach’d to his Person, as those he had left at _Hanover_; and not long after his Arrival he was, according to Custom, crown’d at _Westminster_. There was so great a Concourse of People at the Ceremony, that it seem’d as if all the Nation had flock’d thither to receive their new Sovereign. I was told there was only one Person, and that was a Woman, who refus’d to own him for King; and that this happen’d upon the very Day of the Coronation, when a Champion, arm’d from Head to Foot, entring into the Banquetting-Hall, and according to Custom challenging any Person whatsoever, who did not acknowledge the Elector of _Hanover_ as lawful King of _England_, that Lady threw down her Glove, and with a very ill-tim’d Effrontery made Answer aloud, _That +James+ the Third was the only lawful Heir of the Crown, and that the Elector of +Hanover+was an Usurper_.

Not many days after the King of _England_’s Departure, I set out from _Hanover_ for _Aix-la-Chapelle_, where I made use of the Baths, as my Physicians had order’d me, to strengthen my Leg. From _Aix_ I proceeded in the _Paris_ Road to MASTRICHT[48], which is a strong Place belonging to _Dutch Brabant_, tho’ situate in the middle of the Country of _Liege_, on which it was for a long time dependent. It was also subject to the _Spaniards_ till 1633, when it was taken by the _Dutch_, who were acknowledg’d lawful Possessors thereof by the Peace of _Munster_, and were thereupon at great Expence to fortify it, so that it was reckon’d one of the strongest Places in _Europe_, when _Lewis_ XIV. took it in 1673, in 13 Days time. The King himself then commanded his Army; and he had with him MONSIEUR his Brother. Three Years after this, the Allies besieg’d it also, but their Arms being not so successful as those of _France_, they were forc’d to abandon their Enterprize. At last, by the Peace of _Nimeguen_ it was restor’d to the _Dutch_, who keep a strong Garrison in it.

_Mastricht_ is very well built, in a flat Country, surrounded with Hills. The _Maese_ runs thro’ the City, over which there is a very high Stone Bridge. They say that the late Count _d’Auverquerque_, who died Velt-Marshal of the _Dutch_, out of pure Gallantry, to convince a Lady how much he lov’d her, leap’d his Horse off the Bridge into the _Maese_. This young Lady so much belov’d was Mademoiselle _de Feltbruck_. As she was passing over the Bridge, Count _d’Auverquerque_, who rode by the side of her Coach, entertain’d her very much about his Passion for her; but Miss so little heeded what he said, that she scarce vouchsaf’d to lend him an Ear. At length being fatigu’d with hearing the same String always harp’d upon, she told him, that Lovers were never sparing of their Promises; but when any Testimonials were demanded of their Love, they then discover’d how little it was to be depended on. _For instance, Sir_, said she, _I would venture a good Wager now, that if I were to ask you to leap from this Bridge into the River, you would not do it_. The furious Lover made no other Answer to this Defiance, but clapping Spurs to his Horse, leap’d him off of the Bridge into the _Maese_. The young Lady thought her generous Lover would most certainly be drown’d; but luckily for him he kept his Seat, and his Horse, which was as mettlesome as the best, had Strength enough after such a Leap, to swim with his Rider to an Island, whither a Boat was sent to fetch him. After such a Trial as this, the young Lady might boast, either that she was lov’d to Distraction, or that she had a distracted Lover.

From _Mastricht_ I went to LOUVAIN[49], which is surnamed the _Wise_, probably by reason of its University, which was founded in 1426, by _John_ IV. Duke of _Brabant_, and has been in its time one of the most celebrated Universities in _Europe_; but it has not that Reputation now. And as to the City, ’tis much more famous for its Antiquity, than upon any other account; for they say it was founded by _Julius Cæsar_. ’Tis indeed, at present, a very large City, but ill built, the only remarkable Edifices that I saw there, are the Collegiate Church dedicated to St. _Peter_, and the Church of the Jesuits. _Louvain_ is not a Place of great Trade as yet, but a very fine Causey which is made from thence to _Brussels_, and another to _Tongres_, which is to be carried on to _Liege_, will very much increase its Commerce, especially with the _Austrian Netherlands_.

I went from _Louvain_ to _Brussels_, and from thence to GHENT[50], which is the Capital of _Spanish Flanders_, and one of the biggest Cities in _Europe_. It stands four Leagues from the Sea, is water’d with three Rivers, the _Scheld_, the _Lys_, and the _Lise_, and adorn’d with fine Squares and noble Buildings. The great Clock is worth seeing; it weighs 11000 Pounds, and is erected upon a Dragon, which Count _Baldwin_ brought from _Constantinople_. A Canal has been dug from this City to the Sea, which is of very great Service to its Trade.

’Twas at _Ghent_ that _Charles_ V. was born, who granted this City extraordinary Privileges; yet the Inhabitants were so ungrateful as to rebel against this Emperor, who resolv’d to punish them for it; and that he might go the nearer way to work with ’em, ventur’d upon the Parole of _Francis_ I. to pass thro’ _France_, in order to come at them. He chastis’d those Rebels with such Severity, that they had no reason to boast that this Emperor was their Countryman. He caus’d twenty-five of their principal Citizens to be executed by the common Hangman, banish’d a greater number of them, confiscated their Estates, and took away all their Privileges. In fine, _Ghent_ which was one of the most considerable Cities in _Europe_, soon became a Desert; and _Charles_ V. to leave a Monument of his Wrath to Posterity, caus’d a Fortress to be built, which is still the Citadel of this Place, and is of great Consequence to the Emperor, when he happens to be at War with _France_; for when the _French_ are Masters of _Ghent_, the Navigation of the _Scheld_ is interrupted; and in case of a War, ’tis better to see them Masters of _Brussels_ than of _Ghent_: For I remember, that in 1708, while the Allies besieg’d _Lisle_, the _French_ being then Masters of _Ghent_, incommoded their Army very much. This City is finely recover’d since _Charles_ the Vth’s Time. The States of _Flanders_ have their Assemblies here, and the Emperor commonly signifies his Will and Pleasure to them, by the Governor-General of the _Netherlands_ residing at _Brussels_.

From _Ghent_ I went thro’ _Courtray_ and _Menin_ to LISLE[51], which is the Capital of _French Flanders_, and one of the best and most beautiful Towns of that Government. It belong’d formerly to the King of _Spain_, till 1667, when _Lewis_ XIV. took it in Person. The Garison then consisting of but 6000 Men, was not strong enough to check the Progress of the _French_ Arms, so that after nine Days open Trenches the Place was taken. _Lisle_ was left in the Possession of _France_ by the Treaty of _Aix-la-Chapelle_, in 1668; but in 1708, the Allies after a tedious and toilsome Siege, made themselves Masters of it. At last, however, this City reverted to _France_ by the Treaty of _Utrecht_. The Inhabitants were so overjoy’d at their not being left in subjection to the _Dutch_, which they were afraid of, that on the Day the Place was evacuated, they made Bonfires in all parts of the Town; and not without Cause, for after they fell under the Dominion of the _Dutch_, their Trade stood still, those new Guests chusing rather to send for what they wanted from _Holland_, than to make use of the Manufactures of this City. But with the _French_ the Case was otherwise, for they bought their Necessaries in the City, and liv’d with the Inhabitants on perfect good Terms.

_Lewis_ XIV. made _Lisle_ one of the finest Places in _Europe_. Its Streets are magnificent, and particularly the Street _Royale_, built in the Reign of that Monarch. ’Tis very strait, and adorn’d on both sides with very fine Houses built alike. In this City resides the Governor of _Flanders_. The Marshal _de Boufflers_ was succeeded in this Government by the Duke his Son. When I was here, the Prince _de Tingry_, Governor of _Valenciennes_, officiated in this Government for the said Duke, who was then under Age.

I was so impatient to be at _Paris_, that I made no stay in any Place upon the Road, till I arriv’d there. I alighted at a Bagnio, and the first Sally I made abroad was to pay my Devoirs to Mademoiselle _de S----_. Absence had not damp’d my Flame, and I was only glad to see _Paris_ again, in hopes of finding out her whom I ador’d. But how was I surpriz’d when the Mother of that lovely Damsel came to welcome me with a Flood of Tears, and told me, that I must think no more of her Daughter, for that she died about a Month ago in the Province of _Perigord_, whither she went to accompany a Lady of her Acquaintance! I was so thunder-struck at this News, that I was not able to speak. I fainted away, was carried back to my Lodgings, and was that Moment let blood; but ’twas some time after it before I came to my self, and then I did nothing but give my self up to Sorrow. Mine was no longer an inward Grief, but vented it self in such continual Exclamations interrupted with Sighs, that every one who saw me believ’d I was going the way of all Flesh; or that, at least, I should be out of my Senses: And truly they were not much mistaken, for I was so in a great measure. In this unhappy Situation did I remain five whole Days, at the end of which the Mother of _S----_ came to make me a Visit; and at her entring into my Room, she told me, that her Daughter was not dead; and that she had just receiv’d a Letter from her, by which she acquainted her, that she should soon be at _Paris_. This sort of Resurrection was as reviving News to me, as the former was mortifying. I felt a surprizing Revolution in my Spirits; and am of Opinion, that if ’tis possible to die with an Excess of Joy or of Grief, I had share enough of both those Passions within a short Space of Time not to survive them. But I was reserv’d by Fate for other Adventures.

In Fact, I was hardly recover’d from the several Shocks which I had lately undergone, but was forc’d to bear the Brunt of another. The Occasion of this was, meeting at the House of a Lady of my Acquaintance with a Friend of _S----_, whose Name was Madame _de R----_; and who had been married for some time, by the Advice of her Parents, to a Man far advanc’d in Years. The young Lady hated her Husband more heartily than is common for Girls of sixteen that marry to Men of above sixty. I had seen her formerly, but she was then so young, that I did not much mind her: And happy wou’d it have been for me, if I had always view’d her with the same Indifference! But when I came to see her after her Marriage, her Beauty, her fine Presence and her noble Deportment made a very sensible Impression on me. I was pitch’d upon to play at Cards with her and another Lady, and all the time she did nothing but rally me upon my Amour with _S----_, and hinted several times to me, that the Lady was not deserving of the Heart I had set upon her. As I could not guess to what all this Discourse tended, when the Game was over I went with the Lady to a distant Window, and there begged her for God’s sake to explain her self. She stood out a long while, on pretence that she should be oblig’d to tell me what would only make me uneasy: But all these Delays rendering me still the more impatient to know what it could be, I press’d her to such a degree that at last she consented to let me into the Secret. _You won’t take a Denial, I see_, said she: _Well then, if you must know, you shall. But you must thank your self for it, if I tell you what will heartily vex you; for I know your Temper, and to what a Degree you are smitten. You think_, continu’d she, _that_ S---- _is in the Country, but you are mistaken; for she is at_ Paris, _and has never been out of it all the time. She is as much in love with the Marquis_ de V----, _as he is with her. She keeps no Company now but him. Two Months ago she remov’d from her House in the Suburb of_ St. Antoine, _where she then liv’d, because she heard you was coming to Town. The truth is, she did not care you should reproach her to her Face; and being in Hopes that you might forget her, she sent to let you know, that she was dead; but hearing that you was so inconsolably melancholy, it mov’d her to pity you, and she has now sent you word that she is still living. Indeed it won’t be long before you see her; but it will only be to receive your Dismission, and to give you to understand from her own Lips, that she prefers_ V----_’s Addresses to yours. I have heard all this from one of my Waiting-Women, whose Sister is a Servant to Madame_ S----. _For as to my part, since I am married to M._ R----, _’tis not convenient for me to keep her Company. You will do well to renounce her, and need not fear but you may find better than her._ As she express’d these Words her Eyes darted in my Face, and at the same instant she blush’d. I was going to make her an Answer, but she left me abruptly, and all the rest of the Evening made it her Business to avoid me, I thought, however, to have an Opportunity of speaking to her when she was going out; but she went away with another Lady, so that ’twas impossible for me to say a Word to her.

I return’d home miserably disturb’d in my Mind. Hatred, Love, Revenge, Contempt; in short, all the Passions of a Lover, slighted on the one hand, and flatter’d on the other, play’d their part to rack my Brain. Guess, _Madame_, in what a Condition I was, when I had such violent Attacks to struggle with. In fine, Contempt triumph’d over the Passion I had conceiv’d for _S----_. The charming Eyes of Madame _de R----_ made me forget the false-hearted Creature on whom I had doated. But in the sequel I was quickly convinc’d that I was no sooner cur’d of one foolish Amour, but I was plung’d into another of the same Nature. The last Words of _R----_ seem’d to be very engaging; I explain’d them in my own favor, and thought sincerely that she had taken a Fancy to me. I flatter’d my self again and again with these agreeable Notions, and found an infinite Pleasure in making my own Chain. Nevertheless you will soon see that I was bubbled as much in this Amour as I was in the former. Madame _de R----_ was one of the finest Women, and without dispute one of the greatest Coquettes in _Paris_; being whimsical withal, and more self-conceited than Women of that Cast generally are; she did not understand what it was to settle her Heart upon any Man, and yet expected to be doated on herself. I push’d head-long into this new Engagement, and thought my self at one time the happiest Man in the World. My Friends too were as much deceiv’d as I was, and thought me for a long while the only Favorite. I will tell ye hereafter what became of this Amour, and shall for the present break off the Detail of these ridiculous Amusements, to tell you how it far’d with me in the Affair which most demanded my Application.

Soon after my Return to _Paris_, I went to _Versailles_, where I had the Honor to pay my Duty to the King and the Princes. _Madame_ receiv’d me so kindly that I thought my self sure of her Protection, and therefore acquainted her of my Intention to beg an Employment of his Majesty, and desir’d her that she would be so good as to recommend me. Madame promis’d me that she would, and was true to her Word; for she not only spoke her self but also made the Duke of _Orleans_ speak for me to M. _Voisin_, who was at that time Chancellor and Secretary of War. This Gentleman promis’d their Royal Highnesses that he would think of a Place for me; but when I waited upon him, with one of Madame’s Officers, who, by her Order introduc’d me, that Minister receiv’d me with a Countenance as crabbed as ever I saw. His Head was invelop’d in a monstrous large Peruke, that hindered both his Sight and Hearing, which at other times were natural enough to him. However, in Respect to Madame he heard me, and then said, that the King had already made one considerable Reduction in his Troops, and was going to make another; and that therefore he did not see what Hopes I could have of being employ’d. I was very much dissatisfied with this Answer, which was so different from the Promise he had made to Madame and the Duke of _Orleans_. I made a Report to their Royal Highnesses of what the Minister said to me; upon which the Duke of _Orleans_ told me, _This signifies nothing, I will speak to him again, and I hope you will find your Account in it_. He spoke accordingly, but _Voisin_ did nothing the more nor the less for it. However, as I had a grateful Heart for the Advances which Madame and the Duke her Son had been so good as to make in my favor, I continu’d to pay my Duty to them; and they both gave me Demonstration that they were not Insensible of my constant Attendance. I was almost every Night at the Duke of _Orleans_’s Couchée. His Court was then but small, and excepting his Domestics I was sometimes all alone with him. I was the more amaz’d at the Carriage of the Courtiers to this Prince, because ’twas natural to think that the Government of the Kingdom would soon fall into his hands. The Duke of _Berry_ was just dead. The King was too old to expect he could live much longer, and the Dauphin too young to take the Management of Affairs upon him for a good while. In short, every thing promis’d this Prince the Regency of the Kingdom infallibly, yet scarce any body regarded him as the rising Sun. The Courtiers Respect for the King made them all stick to his Majesty, and a Reign so glorious and so long, seem’d to them as if it was never to have End.

I stay’d at _Paris_ the rest of the year 1714, and some Months of the year 1715. This Winter there was one of the noblest Sights in _Paris_ that could be, _viz._ The Entry of the _Persian_ Ambassador, and especially the Audience he had of his Majesty some days after it. But the Ambassador did not contribute so much to the Lustre of this Shew, as to give us any great Idea of the _Persian_ Magnificence; and indeed, in my whole Life I never saw any thing so pitiful; for all his Equipage being out of Order, his Domestics having scarce Cloaths to their Backs, and almost all of them ill-looking Fellows, formed a very melancholy Scene. Besides, the Presents he brought were really not worthy of the Prince that sent them, or of him that received them. Before this Ambassador made his Entry, he lodg’d at _Charenton_, to which Place every body went to stare at him as a Prodigy. The Torrent carried me thither among the rest, and a numerous Company there was of us. The Interpreter told us, before we went in, that a Compliment must be made to the Ambassador, and we drew Cuts to determine who should be the Speaker. The Lot fell upon me. I made but a very short Speech to him, wherein after having congratulated him upon his Arrival, I told him, that I hop’d his Stay in _Europe_, and especially in _France_, would not be disagreeable to him. He thank’d me by his Interpreter, and bid him tell me, that as he was come to see the greatest King in the World, next to the Sophy his Master, he should be always satisfy’d, happen what would to him, when once he had appeared before his Majesty. He made us sit down, and we ask’d him several Questions concerning his Voyage, the Court of _Persia_, and the Sophy; but he told us, that he had never been at _Ispahan_, and never seen the Sophy. During this Conversation he gave us Coffee and Sweet-meats, and was mighty civil to us.

But upon all Occasions when his Character was to be supported, he was not near so tractable; for he then took upon him too much State, so that when the Marshal _de Matignon_, who was to come from the King to carry him to the Ambassadors House, was to enter his Chamber, he pretended that he was not obliged to stand up. The Baron _de Breteuil_, the Introductor of the Ambassadors, represented to him that he could do no less than pay that Deference to M. _de Matignon_ who came from the King; but he might as well have reason’d with a Post; and all that he could get from him, was a Promise, that when the Marshal entered his Chamber he wou’d that Moment rise and go out all at once. There was another Scene to manage when he came down Stairs. They proposed to him to ride in the King’s Coach; but he said, he would do no such thing; that it was a Cage; and that he would make his Entry on horseback. The Baron _de Breteuil_, therefore, in order to make him get into the Coach, was under a Necessity of talking smartly to him; and even to threaten him, that he should make no Entry, nor have any Audience, if he did not subject himself to the Customs establish’d in _France_. At length the Ambassador capitulated, they split the Difference, and he consented to ride one half of the way in the Coach, and the other on horseback. I never saw such a Multitude of People as I did at this Entry; the Concourse was really astonishing; for from the first Bar in the Suburb of _St. Antoine_ to the Ambassadors House, there were Scaffolds all along on both sides of the way, full of People. The same Croud of Spectators follow’d him for several days, so that when he went abroad, either to the Bagnio, or to take the Air, he could scarce go along, there were such Throngs of People to gaze at him.

The Audience which the King gave him was a very magnificent Scene. _Lewis_ XIV. appeared at it in all the Majesty of a great King; and be the Audiences of the _Great Mogul_, describ’d to us by _Tavernier_, ever so brilliant, I can scarce think they are to compare with the Ceremony I am now speaking of, and whereof I was an Eye-witness, which was performed in the Great Gallery at _Versailles_. The King’s Throne, which was at one end, and rais’d very high, was of a Gold Ground, with Flowers and the Arms of _France_ embroider’d on it. The King was dress’d in a Suit of Coffee-color’d Velvet, adorn’d with Jewels, to the Value of several Millions. The young Dauphin was at his Majesty’s Right Hand in a Robe of Gold Brocade, adorn’d with Diamonds and Pearls. The Duke of _Orleans_ was on his Left, dress’d in a Suit of blue Velvet, adorn’d with a Gold _Spanish_ Point, seeded with very beautiful Diamonds and Pearls. The Princes of the Blood, the legitimated Princes, the Prince of _Dombes_ and the Count _d’Eu_, both Sons to the Duke of _Maine_, sat in the same Row, on the Right and Left of the King, all observing the Rank due to their Birth. All along the Gallery on the Right-Side of the Throne, there were several Rows of Steps, on which stood the Ladies richly dress’d. The Duchess of _Berry_ and Madame were next to the Throne, and next to them stood the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, who was then at the Court of _France_ with the Title of the Count of _Lusatia_. That Side of the Gallery which fronts the Garden was taken up by Noblemen richly apparell’d, and the Space which serv’d for the Passage, from the Entrance of the Gallery to the Throne, was cover’d with a magnificent Tapestry, as were the rest of the Apartments from the Stair-Case of Marble to the Gallery. In the Courts below, the Regiments of the _French_ and _Swiss_ Guards, newly cloath’d, were rang’d in Order of Battle: And the Life-Guards, the Musketeers, and all the King’s Houshold Troops were also drawn up in the same Order. But the Splendor of the Soldiery was very much lessen’d by a great Quantity of Rain which pour’d down almost all day long.

The Ambassador with all his Attendance pass’d thro’ all those Troops to the Gallery; and when he was advanc’d near to the Throne, he there deliver’d his Credentials to M. _de Torcy_, Minister and Secretary of State, by whom they were given to the Interpreter, who read them. He afterwards gave his Majesty the Presents that the Sophy sent him, which were so inconsiderable, that at first sight one could hardly imagine they were sent from one of the most powerful Monarchs of _Asia_. The Whole consisted of Turquoise Stones, a Scymitar garnish’d with precious Stones, a Box of Balm to which he ascribed wonderful Virtues, and some other things of no great Value. After the Audience was over, the Ambassador was regal’d, and then reconducted to the House of the Ambassadors, where he was defray’d at the Expence of the Court, all the time that he staid at _Paris_. He was furnish’d at first with the King’s Horses for himself and his Retinue; but as his Stay was long, and as besides he spoil’d all the King’s Horses, he was accommodated afterwards with Horses that were hir’d.

Some time after this Audience, the Ambassador went to the Opera, where the Benches in the Amphitheatre were taken away, to make it more commodious to hold him and his Retinue. Tho’ there was an incredible number of People of the first Quality, he seem’d to be under no manner of Constraint, and smoak’d his Pipe there a good while, with as much Freedom, as if he had been in his Chamber. The Eagerness of the People to run after him was soon abated; they began in a short time after his Arrival, to be indifferent whether they saw him or not; and at length, they were so weary of him, that every body wish’d publickly that he was gone.

I have had the Honor to acquaint you, that the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_ was at the _Persian_’s Audience. This Prince had been for some time in _France_; and tho’ he was _incog._ by the Name or Title of the Count of _Lusatia_, he had the Retinue of a King’s Son. The Count _de Coste_, who died Bishop of _Warmia_, was his Governor, and the Baron _de Hagen_ his Sub-Governor. He had also several Gentlemen with him, besides Pages, and a number of Officers. His Equipage was magnificent, and his Table as elegant as could be desir’d. He was presented to the King by _Madame_, who gave him out to be a _German_ Gentleman of a good Family.

This Prince gave a sumptuous Ball at the Hotel _de Soissons_, in the Apartment where _Dumont_ the Envoy of _Holstein_ liv’d. There was an amazing Croud of Masqueraders, and among the rest your humble Servant, who had good Diversion there with a Lady who trusted me with a Secret, by mistake, for another Person. As she is a Lady of some Distinction, you’ll excuse me from telling her Name. All that I shall do my self the Honor to acquaint you of at present is, that she was a Duchess who was fond of _R----_ to Distraction; but he had abandon’d her for Mademoiselle _de S----_. The Duchess saw him enter the Ball-Room with _V----_, who was formerly a Confident of their Amours, and an intimate Friend of _R----_. The Duchess, as disguis’d as she was, was presently known by her faithless Lover; so that when she went to lay hold of him, he slily stole away with his Friend, and secreted himself in the Croud. Being afraid of Reproaches from the Duchess, he thought fit also to change his Domino. _V----_ likewise exchang’d his for mine. _R----_ shew’d me the Place where he had seen the Duchess, and desir’d me to pass by her, but not to speak to her, in case that she offered to talk with me. I promis’d every thing he ask’d, yet was resolv’d to have a Parley with her, if I found a proper Opportunity, which soon presented. You must know, that I so much resembled M. _de V----_ in Stature, that the Duchess readily took me for him, and beckoning me aside, at the Instant that she was in high Wrath with _R----_, for refusing to speak to her, she made a general Confession to me of all her Intrigue. While she was going on thus, without Reserve, to make a Variety of Confessions to me, of which I thought she might repent when she knew that she had been speaking to the wrong Person; I interrupted her by saying, _She was mistaken in her Man, and that I was not_ V----. She reply’d hastily, _What need all these Grimaces? Hear me out to the End of my Tale. This is not a Place to play the fool in. You know_, continu’d she, _that I have granted the ungrateful Man but every thing_. I broke in upon her again, and said to her, _By my Troth_, Madame, _I did not know one word of the Matter till now_. She jeer’d me for pretending to be ignorant of what she had been telling me, and continu’d her Discourse to me with all the Plainness and True-heartedness that is seldom found in Narratives of this nature. After she had run on a good while, she said, _Alas!_ Sir, _What say you, Speak, now is your Time to speak, and justify your Friend, if you can. I really think_, replied I, _that +R----+ is a Scoundrel to set so little a Value upon the Kindness you have for him; and instead of justifying him, when I see him, I shall certainly rattle him for it. I shall tell him every Tittle that you have now done me the Honor to divulge to me; and tho’ I am not +V----+, nor very intimate with +R----+, I am persuaded that he will give Attention to what I shall say to him. Ah, Sir!_ replied the Duchess, _Why do ye go to alter the natural Tone of your Voice? How can you deny your self? What have I done to be thus treated? Upon my Honor, Madam_ I said, _I don’t impose on you; let your own Eyes be Witness_. At the same Moment I pull’d off my Mask. The Lady was so astonish’d that I can’t express it. She cou’d not speak; and I perceiv’d, by her Confusion for having made such an open Confession to me, that she did not know, whether she had best say on, or retire? I really pitied her, and did all I could to hearten her. I begg’d her to be assur’d that I would keep every thing she had said to me inviolably secret; and that I was as sensible as she could be, of the Consequence of revealing Things of that nature. The good Lady began to pluck up her Spirits; and after some farther Discourse she desir’d me to hand her out, and to help her to find her Coach. It was impossible to discover her Coach or mine either in the Croud; and therefore she chose to take a Hack. I went with her to her House, where she desir’d me to go back to the Ball, and tell the Ladies whom I had seen in her Company that she was taken very ill. I obey’d her Orders punctually, and did not fail next Day to pay her a Visit, and this Visit pav’d the way for others, which gave me an Opportunity to contract a most intimate Acquaintance with her. I had the Honor, in short, of being her most esteemed Friend, and found her possess’d of a thousand good Qualities, which render’d her the best Companion in the World.

The most comical part of this Adventure was, to find _R----_ quarrelling bitterly with the Duchess for holding a long Parley with a Gentleman in Masquerade at the Ball. He pretended to be jealous, and wrote a thundering Letter to her next day, wherein he told her, that he would have nothing more to do with her. On the other hand Madam _de R----_, with whom I went to the Ball, and whom I was still passionately fond of, took advantage of the Conference I had with the Duchess, and also pretended Jealousy, (for to be serious, I knew afterwards that ’twas only a Copy of her Countenance.) She expatiated a good deal upon her Uneasiness at the long Conversation that pass’d betwixt us. I was silly enough to believe that she was sincere in what she said, and more Fool still to be transported with the Thought that I had made her jealous. I did all in my power, however, to remove her Suspicions; in a word, I said every thing that a Lover can say, who loves sincerely, and would convince that he does so. She seem’d to be satisfy’d with my Protestations; but yet instead of making a suitable Return to the Respect I had for her, she continu’d to teaze me all the rest of the Winter. Her Behavior was so extremely coquetish, that it gave me a deal of Vexation; and besides, I did not like to see the Marquis _de V----_ so often at her House.

I had been pester’d with this Marquis for a long time. ’Twas he that took away _S----_ from me; and no sooner was I got into the Favor of Madame _de R----_, but he found a way to insinuate himself there too. I was so provok’d to see him always at my Heels, that I quarrel’d with him one day at _C----_, where we happen’d to meet at the House of the President _de N----_. We were actually at Daggers-drawing, when M. _de C----_ came and parted us. _V----_ assur’d me that he had no manner of Pretence to Madame _de R----_, and actually promis’d me, that if I did not like his Visits to her, he would not renew them. And he was as good as his Word, so that I was perfectly reconcil’d to him; but I was not at all pleas’d with Madam _de R----_. I saw plainly that I was betray’d. I had fresh Cause to suspect her every day, and yet I hugged the Chains wherewith she had bound me; in which I sufficiently confuted the vulgar Error of those who assert, that People never love heartily but once. I ought, however, to reflect a little upon this last Amour, which was extremely hurtful to me. Madam _de R----_ was so extravagant that a Man could not be upon good Terms with her, without being, at an excessive Expence. To support my self I borrow’d Money every where, till e’er long I knew not where to find Lenders. On the other hand my Creditors began to make me frequent Visits, till they were tir’d with my continually putting them off from one time to another, and then truly they resolv’d to proceed against me by Law; and at length took out a Writ to attach my Person. I was very much stunn’d at the News, but because I had put them in an ill Humor, I was willing to avoid the Effects of it, by keeping my Chamber for some days, till M. _de N----_ had procur’d me an Order to stay Prosecution. This Respite put me upon ways and means to find Money, all my Desire being to satisfy my Creditors. I was aware how difficult it was to get a sufficient Sum to pay them remitted from home; for all my Estate was entail’d upon my Brother and Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_; and she never intended to give her Consent to the mortgaging of any part of it. Yet having no other way to bring my self out of Trouble, I got my Friends to intercede with her; which they did so powerfully, that at length they really prevail’d on her to agree to the borrowing of some Money upon the Estate, which was lent accordingly; and by this Means I got happily out of this Scrape. The Difficulties I had been plung’d in made me wiser, and I lessen’d my Expences, which I perceiv’d, indeed, was not the way to preserve the Favor of Madam _de R----_. But what should I do? To dip my self again over head and ears in Debt, and to run the risque of having another scurvy Action enter’d against me, was what I could not resolve on. At this same time I obtain’d a Pension of 2000 Livres; but as to an Employment, none could I get of the Secretary at War.

This put me so much out of Temper, that notwithstanding my Passion for Madam _de R----_, and my being so much attach’d to _France_, I determin’d to try once more for an Establishment elsewhere. For this purpose I wrote to the Prince of _H----_, a General Officer in the Emperor’s Service, and a Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, who return’d me a very obliging Answer, how glad he should be to admit me into his Regiment; but that there was no Company vacant in it, nor none like to be, unless I could strike a Bargain with a certain old Captain who had a Design to retire, and would gladly part with his Company for 2000 Crowns. To find such a round Sum as 2000 Crowns, in the Situation which I was in then, and to find the Philosopher’s Stone, was as easy for me one as the other. I resolv’d, however, to treat with the Captain.

I therefore set out for _Bruges_, where the Prince of _H----_ was in Garison with his Regiment. I met with a Captain, but he was pretty stiff, and would absolutely hear of no Terms but the Money down, or old Plate for Security. The Prince, who really wish’d me well, and perfectly knew the State of my Affairs, wrote to my Cousin to persuade her to consent to my taking up some more Money upon the Estate. I also indited the most moving