LETTER XXIX.

_SIR_, _Rome, Sept. 10, 1730._

In this Letter I shall run through the Palaces of ROME, as briefly as I traversed the Churches in my former. I shall take Care to mention no Houses to you, but such as deserve the Name of Palaces; for you must know, that the Buildings which we _Ultramontains_ think much to call Hotels, are here styled Palaces.

I think, that the Pope's two Palaces called the _Vatican_ and _Monte-Cavallo_ deserve to be mentioned before all the others: The first, for its Extent and Magnificence; the second, because the Popes give it a Preference to the other, from an Opinion here, that it stands in the most healthful Air in the City.

The _Vatican_ is a Building extremely irregular, very great and very high, and so close to St. _Peter_'s Church, that it takes off a great deal of its Beauty. As to the Outside of it, I don't see any thing to be admired in this Building, except the Quantity of Brick and Stone that has been employed in it; but as to the Inside, 'tis quite otherwise; for one cannot help being astonished at the Grandeur of the Apartments, and the Beauty of the Pictures every-where, in which the best Painters of _Italy_ seem to have strove to display the utmost of their Art: _Raphael_ especially has done Wonders here: His Master-piece is a Picture representing the History of _Attila_, a Piece which one cannot behold without being charmed.

_Sixtus_'s Chapel is of singular Beauty, on Account of its wonderful Paintings, and especially for that great Picture of the Day of Judgment, by _Michael Angelo Buonorato_, who, 'tis said, represented all the Persons of his Acquaintance so much to the Life, that 'twas impossible to mistake them; and that he placed his Friends among the Elect, and those that he did not love, among the Damned; whereupon a Prelate, who was a Domestick of Pope _Sixtus_ IV. then in St. _Peter_'s Chair, finding himself among the damned, complained of it to the Pope, and desired him to deliver him out of such bad Company; but the Holy Father told him, that his Power extended no farther than Purgatory; that he could deliver Souls from thence, but not from Hell; and that therefore, since 'twas his Misfortune to be in such Company, there he must stay.

The _Vatican_ Library is, without Dispute, the finest and the greatest in the World. 'Tis full of MSS. in the _Hebrew_, _Arabic_, _Greek_, _Latin_, and other Languages. Pope _Sixtus_ V. spared no Cost to enrich it with the best Books; and since his Death, it has been very much augmented by the _Heidelberg_ Library, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_. The former was brought hither, as I think I told you, after the Defeat of _Frederic_ the Elector _Palatine_, King of _Bohemia_, when _Heidelberg_ submitted to the Power of the House of _Austria_. The latter was purchased by the Pope from that Queen's Heirs. The Building which contains this Library is worthy of the great _Sixtus_ V. who caused it to be built from the very Foundation. 'Tis generally divided into two Parts, _viz._ the Public, and the Private. The first is three hundred Feet long, and sixty broad. The second consists of two great Rooms, into which the Admittance is not so easy as into the Gallery, because of the very scarce MSS. that are there contained. _Sixtus_ V. caused the whole Library to be painted, both Inside and Outside, in which he employed the most ingenious Artists of his Time. The Outside represents, in different Figures, the Arts, the Sciences, and the Virtues. In the Inside, there are painted in divers Compartments, the most memorable Actions of _Sixtus_ V. the holding of sixteen Councils; the most celebrated Libraries; and the Men, in short, ever since _Adam_, who have been most distinguished in the World for their Learning. In the private Library are painted the principal Actions of Pope _Sixtus_ V. and the Doctors of the Church.

The last Pope _Benedict_ XIII. was of a different Opinion from the Popes his Predecessors, with regard to the Palace of the _Vatican_. He thought it too fine for his Residence, as he did also the Palace of _Belvidero_, which is properly a House of Pleasure, tho' it joins to the _Vatican_. And as 'twas his Maxim, that a General ought to die in the Army; and a Bishop, if not at the Altar, at least near his Church; he was not willing to quit the Neighbourhood of St. _Peter_; and therefore, on the Backside of the Gardens of the Pontifical Palace, he caused a little House to be built, with some few Rooms in it that looked into the Country; where all his Furniture was a few matted Chairs, all his Ornaments the Images of certain Saints, and all his Companions a Brother of his own Order, with whom he used to take the Air, and say his Breviary; and he could go out of this Apartment whenever he pleased, without being seen.

I fansy, Sir, you will not be sorry if I should make a Digression here, touching the Person of this Pope, who was perhaps the most humble, and the most regular in his Morals, that ever filled the Papal Chair since St. _Peter_. Being born at _Rome_, of the illustrious Family of the _Ursini_, he entered very young into the Order of St. _Dominic_, and was made a Cardinal at twenty-three Years of Age, by Pope _Clement_ X. of the _Altieri_ Family. He commonly resided, after he was a Cardinal, at _Benevento_, of which he was Archbishop. 'Twas there that he heard of the Death of his Predecessor _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_. When he received the News, he had just given away all his Money to the Poor, so that he was fain to borrow of _Fini_, whom he afterwards made a Cardinal, the Sum of eight hundred Crowns, to enable him to repair to the Conclave at ROME. The Division of the Sacred College, who could not agree in the Choice of a Pontiff, was the Cause of his Advancement. The Cardinals aimed at placing the _Tiara_ upon the Head of a Man who might wear it just long enough, either to dissipate, or to form their Cabals, and no longer. They were all convinced, that by chusing the Cardinal _Ursini_, they should give a holy Pope to the Church, but an indifferent Prince to the State; however, they thought to remedy this Deficiency, by planting such Ministers about the Pope, as they did not doubt would make him do what they pleased. But they were egregiously mistaken; for the Cardinal _Ursini_, when he was advanced to the Pontificate, was resolved to be _Pope_; and he chose his own Ministers, without consulting the Sacred College. One _Coscia_, a _Neapolitan_ Clergyman, born of mean Parents, had for a long Time a great Ascendant over him. The Pope advanced him to the Purple, preferred him to the highest Offices both in the Church and the State, and made him Archbishop of _Benevento_.

This new Creature bore greater Sway than ever any Cardinal Nephew had done, when Nepotism was in its Meridian. He was guilty of a thousand Oppressions. Nothing was to be seen, but Rapine and Injustice; and he converted all Things, even the most sacred, into Money. Every body groan'd; but it was to no Purpose to complain, for the Pope was so byassed in his Favour, that he turned a deaf Ear to all his Accusers. Even the Cardinals, sensible of the public Misery, vigorously represented to the Pope the Grievances that happened under his Administration; but he would not hear them, and imputed their Remonstrances to Envy. _Coscia_ confirmed him every Day too in this Sentiment. _They will accuse me of every thing that is ill_, said he to the Holy Father, _but God is my Witness, that I discharge my Duty; and they hate, and strive to blacken me, for no other Reason, but because perhaps I am in this respect too strict._ I have been very well assured, that the Cardinal, when he made his Defence to the Pope, often shed Tears, which wrought so much on his Good-nature, that he wept too.

I know not whether I dare vouch the Truth of the following Story, which however is firmly believed by all the People of ROME. Certain Cardinals represented to the Pope one Day, that _Coscia_ was not only guilty of innumerable Extortions, but that he led the most irregular Life in the World, and diverted himself every Day with Prostitutes. The Pope said, he would inquire into the Matter, and punish _Coscia_, if what they alledged was true. Accordingly he taxed him with it the very same Day, but _Coscia_ easily brought himself off. He said, 'twas all Calumny; swore with Tears in his Eyes, that he was innocent; and desired the Pope to hear him in Confession. The Pope agreed to it; he said what he pleased, and his Holiness almost took him for a Saint. But _Coscia_, fearing lest the Pope should at length open his Eyes, thought to blind him the more by writing an anonymous Letter, which he caused to be delivered to him by a trusty _Valet de Chambre_, importing in Substance as follows: 'Your Holiness being so prepossessed in Favour of Cardinal _Coscia_, that you will give Credit to nothing that is told you of his Debaucheries, 'tis thought proper to acquaint you, that this very Night, at Nine o'Clock, the Cardinal will have some Mistresses in his Chamber. Your Holiness may be an Eye-witness of the Intrigue, if you will but take the Trouble to repair to the Cardinal's Apartment, and peep thro' the Key-hole.' The Pope did not fail to go at the Time mentioned; but instead of seeing what he expected, the Cardinal, who imagined he would come, took care to be on his Knees at Prayer, with his Beads in one Hand, and a Crucifix in the other, which he kissed with a great Air of Contrition. The Pope, beholding the crafty Cardinal in this Posture, cry'd out to somebody that was with him, _Do but see that holy Man, who has been represented to me in such a wicked Light! Would to God that all the Clergy were like him._ Then entring into the Cardinal's Chamber, _Dear Coscia_, said he, embracing him, _They have accused you to me as the greatest of Sinners, and I was so weak as to think you guilty; I ask your Pardon, and I pray God to forgive me the Injury I have done you._ He afterwards joined with _Coscia_ in reading the Litanies of the Holy Virgin; and he wanted no other Proof of his being a Saint. Thus was the honest Pope made the Dupe of the greatest of Hypocrites. But, to the Pope's Sorrow, this was not all; Cardinal _Coscia_ was not the only Man who abused his Credulity; for all that served him being _Beneventines_, and as cunning as _Coscia_, whose Creatures they were, they tried who should bubble the Pope most; which made Cardinal _Buoncompagno_ say, _That the Pope was like the Holy Sepulchre, in the Hands of the_ Turks.

This good Pope never knew what Money was, nor the Value of it; but gave away all that he had, and especially to the Poor, for whose Relief he sold all the Presents he received. He could never understand how a Piece of Gold could be sometimes worth less than a Piece of Silver; and I have been told, that one Day, as he was selling some Presents he had received from the Emperor of _China_, to his unworthy _Beneventines_, one of them offered thirty Crowns for a thing that was perhaps worth five hundred. Another came and offered a gold Crown-piece. The Pope, surprized at the golden Proffer, said to him that had offered the thirty Crowns, 'I am sorry I can't let you have the Thing; you offered me only Silver, but here's one offers me Gold; what I sell, is for the Poor, and I will not wrong them.' Accordingly, he that held out the gold Coin had the Preference; and thus did those Knaves juggle together to trick the Pope. They had one common Purse, and what they bought of the Holy Father at their own Price, they sold afterwards in ROME, and shared the Profit.

At the Beginning of his Pontificate, the Governor of ROME having complained to him that _Pharao_ and _Basset_ proved the Ruin of a great many People, he answered him smartly, _Alas! are not you the Governor? Send the Gamesters to the Gallies._ He never loved to talk of State Affairs, and would never read the Relations given by Nuncios, who, he said, were only Newsmongers and Spies, with whom he did not care to have any Concern; nor would he ever advance them to the Purple, but always put them back, tho' perhaps the Term of their Nunciature had been long expired.

This holy Pope, for I really believe him a Saint, lived in the very midst of ROME, and of his Court, like a Hermit, always at Prayer, or employed in the Functions of the Priesthood. He was an Enemy to Luxury and Pageantry, would never suffer a Clergyman to kneel at his Feet, but always made him rise, and sit down by him; being as humble as 'twas possible for any mean Priest, and perhaps too humble for his Character. He went out every Day in a sorry Coach, with only a Pair of Horses, without Guards, without any Companion, as I said before, besides a Brother of his Order, _viz._ the _Dominican_, to the Rules of which he always adher'd, and without any Attendants but a Couple of Footmen, and six of his _Swiss_ Guards. If he happened to meet with any Carriage in a narrow Street, he bade his Coachman stop, saying, he did not desire to fall out with any body. So much is enough for _Benedict_ XIII. who was a pious Pope, and would have been a good Prince too, if his Ministers had been Men of Honour. I now return to the _Vatican_.

This Palace joins to the Castle of St. _Angelo_, which is the Citadel of ROME, by a covered Gallery, which was made at a Time when the turbulent _Romans_, not paying their due Obedience to the Popes, the latter thought proper to make themselves a Passage to it in case of a Revolution; but, Thanks to God, this Precaution is no longer necessary; for the Popes are the Masters. The Castle of St. _Angelo_ is for Prisoners of State, and in it is the Arsenal, which, by the way, is in a very bad State. There are also kept the four Millions of _Roman_ Crowns, which Pope _Sixtus_ V. deposited there, with an Injunction, by a Bull, at the same Time, that they should not be touched but to serve some pressing Exigency of the Church. It has the Name from the Appearance of an Angel to Pope St. _Gregory the Great_, putting up a Sword all over bloody, in its Scabbard, to denote that God had stay'd the Pestilence, in regard to the Prayers of St. _Gregory_, who, accompanied by all the Clergy and People of ROME, carried in Procession to St. _Peter_'s Church two Images of the Virgin, the one painted by St. _Luke_, and kept in the Church of St. _Mary Major_, the other, which appeared to St. _Galle_, and is worshipped in the Church of St. _Mary in Compitello_.

From the Castle of St. _Angelo_ you will please to follow me to the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_, which is travelling from one End of ROME to the other. _Gregory_ XIII. began this Palace, and several of the succeeding Popes have carried it on. 'Tis much more spacious than magnificent, and yet none of the Apartments are good for much, except that of the Pope, who indeed is well lodged. _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family, who, next to _Sixtus_ V. was the Pope that has most embellished ROME, has also most of all contributed to the Embellishment of the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. Here are excellent rich Cielings, made in the Time of his Pontificate. This vast Building forms a long Square, with a great Court in the Middle, encompassed with Piazzas, five hundred Paces in Length. The two cross Buildings, of which that at the farther End forms the main Body of the Building, are higher than those on the Sides. In the Front of the main Building there's a mosaic Picture of the Holy Virgin, with the Infant _Jesus_ in her Arms, as designed by _Charles Maratti_, which is an admirable Piece. There are also fine Paintings in the Apartments, but they are not near so magnificent as those of the _Vatican_. The Furniture of this Palace, and indeed, of all the Pontifical Palaces, is far from being rich. The Hangings are of crimson Damask, with Lace and Fringe of gold Tinsel. The Seats are Benches of Wood, painted with the Arms of the reigning Pope, and varnished; and the Cardinals themselves have no other in the Apostolical Palace. From the Pope's Apartments there's one of the most agreeable Prospects that can be over almost all ROME, and very far into the Country. The Air of _Monte Cavallo_ is said to be the best in _Rome_, and indeed no other Reason could induce the Popes to reside here rather than at the _Vatican_. The Gardens belonging to it are very much admir'd by the _Italians_, who never travell'd out of their Country, where Gardening is not in very great Perfection; but as for us _Ultramontains_, who know a little of what belongs to Gardens, we look upon those of this Country with very great Indifference.

The Capitol is a considerable Building, with Curiosities worthy a Traveller's Attention. It was built in the Pontificate of _Gregory_ XIII. The Ascent to it is by a Stair-case of several Flights, adorn'd on both Sides with Balustrades of Free-stone, at the Bottom of which two Lions are plac'd, of a kind of black Stone like Jet, which form two Fountains. At the Top of the Stair-case, there are two great Horses representing _Castor_ and _Pollux_, when they came Express to ROME with the News of the Victory gain'd over the _Tarquins_. In the Midst of the Area, which is form'd by three separate Piles of Building, two whereof are as advanc'd Wings to the main Building that fronts the Ascent, there's an _Equestrian_ Statue in Brass, of the Emperor _Marcus Aurelius Antoninus_, which is the most beautiful, and completest Piece that was perhaps ever made of the Kind. They say here, that the Republic of _Venice_ offer'd some Years ago to pay as many _Sequins_ for this Statue as cou'd be put into the Horse's Belly. If this be true, that Republic was undoubtedly more wealthy than it is at present. 'Tis certain, that the Capitol contains a considerable Treasure in ancient and modern Statues, in Basso Relievos, and in all Sorts of Fragments of Antiquity. The Structures are according to the Direction of _Michael Angelo_.

In the middlemost Pile of Buildings, which is much higher than the two others, the Senate of ROME meets, and there Justice is administer'd. There are two Flights or Steps up to the Gate which opens into the Hall of the Tribunal where they plead. Between the two Flights, there's a stately Fountain adorn'd with two antique Statues of Marble, lying on Pedestals, representing the _Nile_ and the _Tiber_; and in a Niche over it, is the Statue of _Roma triumphans_, a Work of Porphyry, an antique Marble of excellent Sculpture.

The Inside of these three Piles of Building contains fine Paintings, particularly the Rape of the _Sabines_; and among the modern Statues, the Connoisseurs esteem the brazen Statue of Pope _Urban_ VIII. done by _Bernini_; the Colossal Statue of Pope _Leo_ X. in Marble, done by _Lorenzetto_ of _Florence_; those of _Alexander Farnese_, _Marcus Antoninus_, _Colonna_, _Gregory_ XIII., _Paul_ III. and many others, in short, which I don't mention, as being of less Value, and which are not much minded here, because they are not done by the best Hands, but wou'd pass with us for Master-pieces.

Being in the Neighbourhood of that great Square call'd _Campo-vaccino_, I cannot help giving you some Account of it; not that I pretend to particularize it, because I have not sufficient Learning. Here we see the admirable Ruins of the Magnificence of old ROME, which I cannot behold without pitying the Condition they are in at present. You wou'd have the same Concern as I have, were you in the Middle of a large Square, and to see nothing all round it but Ruins; to see on one Side the Walls of the ancient Capitol, on the other the _Constantine_ Arch erected with so much Expence by the Senate and People of ROME, broken and half-bury'd; beyond that, the Arch of _Titus_, in a Condition still worse; on your Left, the immense Ruins of the Temple of _Peace_; the Vestigies of the Temple of _Antoninus_ and _Faustina_, on the Architrave of which is this vain Inscription, _Divo Antonino, Divæ Faustinæ_; on your Right-hand the melancholy Ruins of the Temple of _Concord_, which, to judge of it by the eight Pillars that are still remaining, must have been very superb; it was built to fulfil a Vow made by the Dictator _Furius Camillus_ for having reconcil'd the _Plebeians_ and the _Patricians_. 'Twas in this Temple, according to _Varro_, that the Senate assembled to treat of the Affairs of the Republic. In short, here are so many other unfortunate Remnants of the Mistress of the Universe, as wou'd put you in mind of the Instability of this World, and that all is Vanity. But what wou'd you say, if you shou'd go on till you come to the famous _Coliseum_, which Time, the Destroyer of all Things, had spar'd, but was destroy'd by Men, and such too as were most concern'd in the Preservation of every thing in ROME that was beautiful? And what wou'd you think, if you saw there was scarce enough remaining of this stately Edifice to give you an Idea of what it was once? 'Twas _Vespasian_ that caus'd it to be built after the Model which was intended by _Augustus_. Its Form on the Outside is round, and 'tis built of a prodigious Height, intirely of great Free-Stones. The Court or Arena is oval. There were three distinct Rows of Seats in the Amphitheatre, the highest for the Senators, the second for the Knights, and the third for the common People. They say it contain'd eighty-five thousand Spectators. It was dedicated by _Titus_, who upon that Occasion celebrated a great Feast, distributed large Sums to the common People, and enter'd five thousand wild Beasts of all Sorts into it in one Day. _Paul_ III. and _Urban_ VIII. caus'd the _Coliseum_ to be demolish'd, and made use of the Stones for building the Palaces which are now inhabited by their Families.

Having entertain'd you sufficiently with the public Structures, let us now take a View of some of the private Palaces; but before I introduce you into them, I will give you my Thoughts of the Palaces of ROME in general. I don't deny that there are finer and greater Palaces here than elsewhere; but of these there are few; and as for the others, they are not worth so much Notice as is taken of 'em. Methinks, 'tis with the Buildings of ROME, as with those People, whose Reputation being once well establish'd, we are apt to applaud in them, what in others perhaps we shou'd censure. A great many Palaces are admir'd here, barely from the Prepossession that Architecture flourishes here more than any-where else. Indeed, this was true enough heretofore, in the Time of a _Sixtus_ V. a _Paul_ V. and an _Urban_ VIII. who had the Embellishment of ROME at Heart; but 'tis not so now, since the indolent Popes have nothing more of that Work upon their Hands. I can assure you, that they actually build now much better in _France_ than they do in _Italy_, especially as to the Distribution of the Apartments, of which the _Italians_ have no Notion. Most of the Apartments of ROME consist of a long Suite of Rooms, often very small ones, which have no Way out of them but the Door you enter at; and commonly the Rooms have no Light, nor Chimney, nor Place to set up a Bed, or Canopy; which is the Reason that those two Pieces of Houshold Stuff are seldom fix'd where they shou'd be; mean time, Canopies are what the _Roman_ Princes and Cardinals are very fond of, and many of them have no less than five or six; vain Ostentation, which makes those Gentlemen fancy they are giving Audience, when they are only receiving Visits! After all, one must not look for such Ornaments here as they have in _France_, and elsewhere. As to their Floors, they are only made of Bricks; they know nothing of Wainscotting; their Glazing is horrible; and most of their Ceilings, tho' there are some very magnificent, are of Timber, so coarsly work'd, that the Gilding employ'd on them serves only the more to expose their Deformity. The Furniture is almost everywhere the same; consisting either of red Damask, with an upper Border of Velvet, of the same Colour, adorn'd with Tinsel Lace and Fringe resembling Gold, or else of Pictures, which are, indeed, the most perfect of the Kind; but when I see five or six Rooms all together in a Row, full of Paintings, I fancy myself in some Picture-shop at the Fair of _St. Germain_. Besides, these Pictures are in such sorry old-fashion'd Frames, that they disparage them. They have but few Looking-glasses, and those very small. As for Porcellane and crystal Vessels, they are not much in Vogue; but, on the other hand, here are beautiful Statues which I admire, and think very fine; but I shou'd be better pleas'd to see them in a Gallery, in a Salon, or in a Garden: For I don't think they look well in a Chamber. All the Furniture one sees here is antique, having been laid in, for most part, by Popes that have been a long while in their Graves; and there's no House furnish'd in the modern Taste, except those of the Cardinals _del Giudici_, _Albano_, _Bolognetti_ and _Carolis_.

'Tis time now to enter into some of the Palaces. That which they call here the _Farnese_ Palace, is, in my Opinion, the most magnificent in ROME; _Michael Angelo_ was the Architect. Most of the Stones of this Building were taken out of the _Coliseum_ of the Emperor _Vespasian_, by Order of _Paul_ III. who made no Scruple to destroy the proudest Monument of Antiquity for the sake of furnishing his Nephews with a Palace. This Palace is two Stories high, and has a perfect Square before it, adorn'd with two stately Fountains, the Water of which continually spouts up fifteen Feet high, and then falls by two Sheets into a Shell or Cistern of oriental Granate, of a vast Bigness, and all of a Piece. The Entrance to this Palace is through a great Court, adorn'd within by _Doric_ Pillars; and this leads to a square Court, the Buildings of which are supported by Arches, with great Galleries well cover'd over, where we see the famous Statues of _Hercules_ and _Flora_, which are really worthy the Observation of the Curious. In a second Court, which is pretty much neglected, there is to be seen, in a wooden Case, the magnificent Groupe of white Marble, all of one Piece, representing the Fable of _Dirce_, fasten'd to a Bull, by _Zethus_ and _Amphion_, the Sons of _Antiope_, Wife of _Lycus_ King of _Boeotia_, who, to take Revenge for their Mother, whom _Lycus_ had divorc'd, because she had suffer'd herself to be debauch'd by _Jupiter_ in the Form of a Satyr, were so barbarous as to murder _Lycus_, and to tie _Dirce_ by the Hair of her Head to the Horns of a wild Bull, by which she was dragg'd about, till the Gods, pitying the State of this Princess, turn'd her into a Fountain. This great Machine was brought from _Rhodes_ to ROME by Order of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_, and was found under Ground in the very Place where were formerly the Baths of that Emperor, from whence _Paul_ III. had it brought to the Palace of his Family, that it might serve as a Vista to the grand Gate; but it has not yet been plac'd there.

The great Stair-case which leads to the Apartments is adorn'd with several fine Statues. We enter first into a great Hall, where we have the History of _Alexander Farnese_, when he pass'd the _Scheld_, who is represented as crown'd by Victory, with _Flanders_ and the _Scheld_ chain'd to his Feet. There is also a Number of other fine antique Statues in several Niches, and upon several Pedestals. The first Chamber is painted in _Fresco_ by _Salviati_ and _Zucaro_. There we see the Emperor _Charles_ V. and _Francis_ I. King of _France_, shaking each other by the Hand; the memorable Transactions of _Paul_ III. and _Martin Luther_ in Conference with that Pope's _Nuncio_. In the next Apartments there are a great many fine Bustos and Ceilings, well painted and richly gilt. But the finest Piece of all in this Palace is the Gallery, which was painted throughout by _Annibal Carache_, whose skilful Hand has therein represented with very great Art the several Deities assisting at the Triumph of _Bacchus_. In fine, no Cost has been spared in this Palace. I have been assured, that the Furniture of it was very magnificent formerly; but it is since all taken away, and the Palace serves to lodge the Minister of _Parma_. 'Tis pity that 'tis not finish'd, for in Truth it wou'd be a fine Piece of Building; but the Case is the very same with all St. _Peter_'s _Miracles_, which is the Name they give to all the Palaces built by the Popes for their Families. The Popes are old Men when they come to the Pontificate, and Modesty, or Decency, hinders them from doing any thing for their Families, the first Year or two; so that they begin in the Decline of their Years, to undertake vast Designs, which they don't live to finish; and 'tis seldom that their Nephews pursue what was begun by their Uncles, either because they don't care to make a Shew of the Wealth that was left them, or else because they have not Souls great enough for the Undertaking; for, to be plain, those Nephews of the Popes are seldom good for much, and have had a poor Education. The Generality are Persons of a mean or base Extraction, who become Princes without any Merit but the Fortune of their Uncles, and are so intoxicated with their Grandeur, that they are swallow'd up in Sloth, and think of nothing, not even of the Preservation of their growing Families; so that they quickly fall to decay, and as soon as their Spring is over, they are snatch'd off on sudden by Winter.

_Paul_ III. had a Project for building a Bridge over the _Tyber_, behind the _Farnese_ Palace, in order to give it a Communication with the Garden of the little _Farnese_ Palace, which is on the other Side of the River, in the Quarter call'd _Longara_; and if this Design had been executed, the Duke of _Parma_ wou'd have had a much finer Palace at ROME, than he has in his own Capital.

The _Barberini_ Palace is in no respect inferior to the _Farnese_, and is larger, and, without doubt, richer in Pictures, Statues and Tapestry. The Stair-case is very much taken Notice of, which runs up winding, and forms a great oval Well in the Middle, from the Bottom to the Cupola. The great Hall, which is a stately Room, is painted in _Fresco_ by _Peter Cortona_, who has artfully represented the four Cardinal Virtues, and the Triumph of Glory, with their proper Figures and Ornaments, all to great Perfection. The Apartments to which this Hall leads, are very spacious, and really contain a vast Treasure in Pictures and Statues, of which were I to give you all the Particulars, I shou'd never have done. That which very much disfigures this Palace is the Entrance to it, a Defect which however might easily be remedied, were they only to pull down two or three Outhouses which belong to it.

The Palace _Pamphili_ in the Street _del Corso_ will be, as to the Outside, the most magnificent in ROME, when the grand Front, which is now actually carrying up, is finish'd. The Prince _Pamphili_ who is the Owner of it, is very well able to go through with it; for he is one of the richest Noblemen in ready Money in ROME. His Brother the Cardinal, who died a little while ago, left him four hundred thousand _Roman_ Crowns in Specie. The Prince is a very good [OE]conomist, has no Children, and being not like to have any, because of the Variance betwixt him and his Wife, his Nephew the Duke _Carpidetti_, who is the last of the _Pamphili_ Family, will be his Heir. The Prince and his Lady have been often parted; and though they have been as often reconcil'd, either by their Kindred, or by the Popes, they are continually at Variance; nevertheless, I have been assured by People who know them perfectly well, that when they are asunder, they are very loving, and write to one another the most tender Letters; but that as soon as they come together, they hate one another as bad.

'Tis not long ago that the _Campagna di Roma_ was infested by Locusts (which are here call'd _Grilli_) to such a Degree, that Pope _Benedict_ XIII. curs'd them, and banish'd them to the Sea, in which it is pretended they were all drown'd. This Miracle being talk'd of some Days after in Presence of the Prince _Pamphili_, he made Answer, that he did not believe it; for, said he, were it so, I shou'd be the most unhappy of Men! But, 'How is it possible for all the _Grilli_ to be plung'd headlong into the Sea, and the _Campagna di Roma_ to be deliver'd from them, and that I shou'd still keep the _Grillo_ in my House?' He alluded hereby to his Wife, who is of the _Grillo_ Family in _Genoa_.

If the Duke _Carpinetti_ shou'd die without Issue, as 'tis believ'd will be the Case, from his having been married these four Years past to a Lady who never yet conceiv'd, the immense Estate of the _Pamphili_ Family goes to the Family of the Constable _Colonna_, and really it will then be in better Hands. You know that the _Colonna_'s are the gayest People in ROME, and the most illustrious next to the Princes of Sovereign Families, to many of whom they are related. They have the Honour to be of the same Stock as the Royal Family of _Prussia_. Since the _Ursini_ Family is extinct, there's not one in ROME can equal the _Colonna_'s. The Head of this Family is hereditary Constable; he is Prince _del Soglio_, (of the Throne) and as such, in all public Ceremonies, he sits at the Right-hand of the Pope's Throne, which is a Place that he yields to none but the Nephews of the reigning Pope. He is moreover Knight of the Golden Fleece, and the present Emperor declar'd him his perpetual Ambassador for presenting the Hackney, which is a Mark of the Tribute that the Kingdom of _Naples_ owes to the Holy See[3]. The _Colonna_'s are well-bred, affable and generous, and always liv'd with a Dignity suitable to their Birth. The present Cardinal, and the Constable his Nephew, are perhaps two of the finest Gentlemen in the World. They both dwell in the same Palace, and live in a Concord and Union, which is the more beautiful, because 'tis what is seldom known among the Great. Their Palace is one of the most magnificent in ROME, as to the Inside of it; and 'tis pity but that it had another Front. It owes its Rise to none but its Owners, without being oblig'd for it to any of St. _Peter_'s Successors. Instead of giving you the Particulars of every Room, I need only tell you, that they are all richly furnish'd. It has Cabinets, Pictures and Statues, that are of an extraordinary Beauty. The Gallery is truly Royal, and has Beauties that are not to be found in that of _Versailles_, which is admir'd by all _Europe_: Such are four Pillars of antique yellow Marble, two of which support an Arch at each End, whereby there's an Entrance to the Salon, which is at the End of the Gallery. This might be said to be a complete Gallery, if one of the Salons at the End of it was not raised five or six Steps, whereas the other is level with the Apartment and the Gallery. The Roof of this fine Piece of Building is painted, and represents the Victory gain'd in the Time of _Pius_ V. over the _Turks_ at _Lepanto_, by the Valour of _Mark Antony Colonna_. These Paintings are by different Hands, and not all of the same Beauty. As to the Pictures and Statues that adorn the Walls which are fac'd with Marble, 'tis impossible to see any thing more complete; and this is a Truth even confessed by _Frenchmen_. I never saw a finer Show than this Gallery makes, when illuminated on the Eve and Festival of St. _Peter_, which is the Time of the Constable's presenting the Hackney to the Pope.

This Ceremony was perform'd not many Days ago; but as it cou'd not be on St. _Peter_'s Festival, by reason of the Vacancy of St. _Peter_'s See, it was done at the Church of Our Lady _del Popoli_, on the Day of the Festival of that Church. The Pope went thither with a great Train, the Cardinals _Olivieri_ and _Banchieri_, the one Secretary of the Briefs, and the other Secretary of State, sitting over-against him in his Coach. When he came to the Gate of the Church, he was put into his Procession Chair, and carried towards the Altar, where he ton'd the Vespers, which were continu'd by the Music. During this, Don _Philip Corsini_, the Pope's grand Nephew, and all the Nobility that accompany'd the Holy Father, set out on Horseback from the Church, and went to the Constable's Palace. They were attended by a Detachment from the hundred _Swiss_ Guards, Light-Horse and Carbineers. Don _Philip Corsini_ complimented the Constable in the Name of _Clement_ XII. and told him, that he came to conduct him to an Audience of his Holiness. A Detachment of Light-horse began the March; then came all the Feudatory Nobility of the Kingdom of _Naples_: The Princes march'd alone, according to their Rank, being preceded by their Gentlemen and Officers on Horseback, and follow'd by the Hackney, which is a white Horse carrying a Saddle of red Velvet, in form of a Pannel, with the Housing of the same Stuff, richly embroider'd with Silver, trailing on the Ground: A Purse of red Velvet was hung about his Neck, wherein was the Bill of Exchange for seven thousand Ducats, which is the Tribute that the Kingdom of _Naples_ pays to the Holy See. Immediately after the Hackney, came the Constable, between two Files of the hundred _Swiss_, preceded by thirty-six Footmen, and surrounded by sixteen Pages, all of his own Livery. Don _Philip Corsini_ was on his Right-hand, and M. _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, (who has been a Cardinal ever since 1733.) on his Left. The feudatory Prelates follow'd him, drest in short purple Mantles, and riding on Mules, two a breast. The March was clos'd by fifteen of the Constable's magnificent Coaches, four of which were drawn by six Horses. When the Constable came to the Church, he alighted, and met the Pope, who was just then going out of it in his Procession Chair. The Ambassador kneeling before him, said to him, 'That the Emperor _Charles_ VI. King of the _Two Sicilies_, his Master, had charg'd him to deliver to his Holiness, the Tribute of the Hackney, and the seven thousand Ducats, which his Imperial and Royal Majesty ow'd to the Holy See, for the Kingdom of _Naples_.' This Compliment must be made in the _Spanish_ Tongue, to which the Pope makes Answer in _Latin_. _Clement_ XII. said, 'We accept the Tribute and the Present which our well-beloved Son _Charles_ VI. Emperor and King of the _Sicilies_, owes to us; and we give to him, and his August Spouse _Elizabeth_ the Empress, to his Kingdoms and Dominions, and to all his Subjects in general, our Apostolical Benediction, in the Name of the Father, _&c._' When the Pope had said this, the Ambassador, who was all the while on his Knees, rose up, and an Apostolical Notary, who was present, immediately made an Entry of this Function in the Apostolical Register, according to Custom. This done, _Clement_ XII. went out of the Church, and return'd with a great Train to the Palace of _Monte-cavallo_. The Constable came out in a Moment after, accompanied by the Emperor's Ambassador, his Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who rode in the Constable's chief Coach, the Constable sitting on his Left-hand. The Footmen of the Cardinal, and of the Ambassador, walk'd in a Body together, without any Distinction, but the Coaches follow'd alternatively, _viz._ one Coach of the Cardinal's, and one of the Constable's. His Eminency had ten, which were each drawn by only a Pair of Horses. Thus they arriv'd at the Constable's Palace, which they found illuminated with Flambeaux of white Wax. All the Nobility of ROME came in a few Moments after, with all the Cardinals. They were plentifully regal'd with Refreshments, and a fine Firework was play'd off, which was erected in the Court-yard in such a manner, that it fronted alike both the Palace and the Street. Next Day the Constable and the Cardinal took another Tour with a great Train thro' the principal Streets of ROME; and in the Evening, the Ambassador's Palace was illuminated, where the Sacred College, and all the Nobility, appear'd, as they did the Night before; and there was another Firework: Thus the Ceremony ended, and 'tis also Time for me to conclude my Letter, by assuring you, that I am ever, _&c._