LETTER XLVIII.
_SIR_, _Mentz, Aug. 20, 1732._
I have been up the _Rhine_ from _Bonn_ to _Mentz_, to avoid the disagreeable Passage over the Mountains of _Wetteravia_. I was not fatigu'd, but then I was pretty much chagrin'd. I landed at LINTZ, a little Town in the Electorate of _Cologne_, on the right Side of the _Rhine_; and there I drank the excellent Wine of _Bleickert_, which is made near the Village of _Huningen_, about a League from this Town. The _Liegeois_, who know how to brew Wine as well as Beer, buy up a great Quantity of it, which they balderdash after their Manner, and sell for _Burgundy_. After I had fill'd my Bottles, I continued my Voyage, and arrived at ANDERNACH, a little Town, which is a considerable Gainer by the Floats of great Timber that are brought hither, and sent from hence for _Holland_. Here is also a great Vent of Stone Jugs and Pitchers, and of the Mineral Water of _Dunchstein_, which in the Summer is very much drank with Wine.
A little above _Andernach_, on the other Side of the River, there's an abandon'd Seat belonging to the Count _de Neuwidt_, who lays up his Hunting-Equipage in it. The Vulgar have a Notion, that this House is haunted by the Devil; which is a sort of Superstition that is to be met with, more or less, in all Countries.
The little Town of NEUWIDT gives its Name to a County of the Empire, where the Count has a very pretty House. This Nobleman, and his Subjects too, are[98]Calvinists. He married a Daughter of the late Count _Alexander de Dhona_, who was the King of _Prussia_'s Governor. She is a Lady highly to be valued for her Virtue, her Understanding, and her Behaviour.
The _Rhine_, which runs thro' none but a plain Country from _Neuwidt_ to _Bonn_, is, above that Place, pent up by Mountains so high, that they give me the frightful Remembrance of the _Alps_. These terrible Rocks are cultivated to the very Top, and produce excellent Wines. One can hardly take one's Eyes off of them, there's such a variegated Prospect of Vineyards, Woods, Towns, Villages, Gentlemen's Seats, and Cottages.
The only Town of Consequence is COBLENTZ, in the Electorate of _Triers_, at the Conflux of the _Moselle_ and the _Rhine_, in a fine Valley surrounded with noble Hills. The City is fenced with grand Walls and Ramparts. Its two Rivers are a great Advantage to its Commerce, and to them 'tis obliged for all its Wealth. In this Town there reside several Persons of Quality, such as the Counts _de la Leie_, and _de Metternich_, the Barons _de Walpol_, and _d'Oels_. The Count _de la Leie_ is a very rich Nobleman, lives high, and is very charitable; so that the Poor look upon him as their Father, and the Convents as their Supporter. He is a Gentleman of sound Piety, very great Politeness, and all his Behaviour is to the last Degree noble. He has an only Son by the Countess _de Schonborn_, Sister to the Elector of _Triers_, a young Gentleman of a lovely Presence, and whose Merit infinitely surpasses his Years.
The Fortress of _Ehrenbreitstein_, which is properly the Citadel of _Coblentz_, stands on the other Side of the _Rhine_. They reckon it impregnable, for this Reason, perhaps, because it was never taken. It is situate upon a high Mountain, or deep Rock, which stands in a manner by itself, and is on all Sides of very difficult Access. The Works are all of Stone, and several cut out in the Rock. There is a Cannon here, which, they say, is longer than the famous Culverin, that _Lewis_ XIV. caused to be carried from _Nancy_ to _Dunkirk_. The Palace of the Elector of _Triers_ is at the Foot of this Fortress, in a Place which is very much pent up by the _Rhine_ on one Side, and by a Rock on the other. It makes but a mean Appearance, and the Apartments are low, incommodious, and very much exposed to the Sun. Near this Palace is a little Town called _Dahl_, where live most of the Elector's Domestics. This Quarter has a Communication with the City of _Coblentz_ by a flying Bridge.
The present Bishop of _Triers_ is _Francis-George_ Count _de Schonborn_, who is the younger Brother of the Cardinal Bishop of _Spires_, and of the Bishop of _Ramberg_ and _Wurtzbourg_. He is also Bishop of _Worms_, and Abbat of _Elwangen_. He was elected Archbishop, when _Francis-Lewis_ of _Newbourg_ was translated from the Electorate of _Triers_ to that of _Mentz_. This Prince is not tall, but very stout, and has a fine Aspect: He is affable, and very civil. His Courtiers assured me, that he was a very kind Master, and his Subjects seemed to be pleased with his Government. His Disbursements seem to me to be very moderate, and his Houshold not large.
From _Coblentz_ I went to _Sanckewerdt_, which is the Foot of the Castle of RHINFELDTS, belonging to a Catholic Branch of the Family of _Hesse_. The Landgrave of _Cassel_ was once in Possession of this Fortress, and claimed it as his Right, by Virtue of his being the eldest of the Family of _Hesse_. Upon this Occasion he was engaged in a great Law-Suit, but the Aulic Council gave a Verdict in Favour of the Prince of _Rhinfeldts_, and the Troops of _Hesse Cassel_ were by an Imperial Commission turn'd out. A Garison is actually kept here for the Emperor, and the Circle of the _Upper Rhine_. This Place is reckoned one of the most important upon the _Rhine_, over which River here is a Passage by a flying Bridge.
As I still went up the River, I came to _Binger-Loch_, a Name which is given to a Cascade, that the _Rhine_ forms here between two Rocks. This is reckoned as the most dangerous Passage of all the _Rhine_, though there's no Danger to be apprehended, unless the Watermen are drunk with Wine; which is too commonly the Misfortune at this Place, where the Juice of the Grape costs little or nothing. Near to this Hollow, upon a Rock, in the midst of the _Rhine_, there's the famous _Rats-Tower_; built, according to Tradition, by _Hatto_ Bishop of _Mentz_, in the Year 969, to secure him from the Rats, which gnaw'd him as a Punishment for his having burnt a considerable Number of poor People in a Barn, that came in a great Dearth of Provisions, to beg he would give them Bread; when this barbarous Prelate, hearing the Shrieks of those unfortunate Wretches in the Flames, ask'd his Courtiers if they did not hear the Rats cry? How improbable soever this Story may seem, 'tis as much believed by the Vulgar, as if it were an Article of Faith; insomuch that when I told my Watermen I questioned the Truth of the Fact, they said, that if I had any Doubt of it, I could not be a good Catholic. For my Part, I sincerely believe, that this Tower served heretofore as a Place of Toll, and, perhaps, for a Mainguard to a Castle, of which the Ruins are still to be seen, and in which 'tis said that Bishop _Hatto_ dwelt, when he was obliged to retire to the Tower, where he was, nevertheless, gnaw'd by the Rats.
The little City of BINGEN is not far from thence, on the left Side of the _Rhine_. 'Tis the most considerable of all the _Rhingau_, and 'tis thought to produce the best _Rhenish_ Wine; for you are to know, that the Fashion of Wine alters, as well as of every thing else. Formerly the Wine of _Bacharach_ was most in Vogue, and the _French_ have not disdained to celebrate it in their drunken Catches; but now that Wine is no longer in request by the Wine-Conners, who are here so delicate, that if they do but wet their Lips, they can presently tell the Age and the Growth of any Wine that they taste. They say now, that the Wine of _Bacharach_ is worth nothing, in comparison with the Wine of _Ridelsheim_, and of _Johannesberg_, Vineyards in the _Rhingau_: But for my Part, who have the Happiness not to be so nice, I thought the Wine of _Bacharach_ very good, and should not be sorry if I was obliged to drink that, and no other.
From _Bingen_ to MENTZ, the _Rhine_ is very broad. This capital City of the first Electorate of the Empire is seated on the left Side of the _Rhine_, over which there's a Bridge of Boats, that is pretended to be in the very same Place where _Charlemaign_ caused one to be made of five hundred Paces in Length, in the Year 798. The Antiquarians of this City, in spite of the best Authors, will have it to be built by a Son of _Japhet_, or at least by a great Lord who escaped out of _Troy_. Be it as it will, 'tis very ancient, and has suffered, as almost all the Towns in the World have, great Revolutions. They say that St. _Crescent_, who was a Disciple of St. _Paul_, was its first Bishop. But what I know for a greater Certainty, is, that the Elector of _Mentz_ is Archbishop, and Great Chancellor of the Empire. The Person who is now possessed of that eminent Dignity, is _Philip-Charles_, Baron of _Eltz_; who was chose unanimously on the Ninth of _June_ last. He was a Capitular of the Metropolitan Churches of _Mentz_ and _Triers_, Great Chanter of _Mentz_ in the Year 1710, Suffragan to the Bishop of _Triers_, Provost of the Collegiate Church of _St. Peter_ at _Monstadt_, a Privy Counsellor to the late Elector of _Mentz_, his Predecessor, and President of his Aulic Council. His Election by the Chapter of _Mentz_ has been applauded by the whole Empire; but particularly by those who know this Prince's Candour, and the Purity of his Morals. He succeeded _Francis-Lewis_ of _Neubourg_, whose Predecessor was _Francis-Lotharius_, Count _de Schonborn_, who was also Bishop of _Bamberg_. This Prince, who has had this Dignity a long time, has caused his Capital City to be very much embellished, furnish'd it with good Fortifications, and put it into such a Condition, that it may be looked upon as a powerful Bulwark of the Empire. The _French_ had begun to fortify _Mentz_ in 1688; and the Marshal _d'Uxelles_, who then commanded here for King _Lewis_ XIV. put it into such a Condition, as to sustain a Siege of seven Weeks open Trenches against Duke _Charles_ of _Lorain_, to whom he surrendered it by Capitulation. Most of the Works, cast up by the _French_, being only of Earth, were demolished, and others of Stone erected in their stead.
The Town is not airy, the Streets being narrow and crooked. There are some fine Houses here, particularly those of the Barons _de Dalberg_, _Ingelheim_ and _Rolling_; but 'tis pity they are not in a better Situation.
The Metropolitan Church is an ancient Structure, which has nothing remarkable but its Treasury, one of the richest in _Germany_. I remember to have read in an old Chronicle of Bishop _Conrade_, that in his Time there was in this Treasury a Cross of Gold of six hundred Weight, adorned with Diamonds; and that at the Foot of the Cross, these _Latin_ Words were engraved;
_Auri sexcentas habet hæc crux aurea libras._
Whether there ever was such a Cross here, I know not; but I can assure you, there is none here now. The Chapter of this Church consists intirely of Persons of Quality, but they don't admit Princes to it.
The Elector's Palace would be a magnificent Pile, if the Whole was answerable to the new main Body of the Building, whose Apartments are commodious and grand, and enjoy one of the finest Prospects in the World.
That which most deserves a Traveller's View in this City, is the _Carthusians_-house, one of the finest in _Europe_, as well for its Buildings, as its Situation. The Church belonging to it is small, but very neat; and the Pews of the Friers are most nicely carved in Wood. The Joiner's Work is adorned with Sculpture, very well executed; which represents the Passages of the New Testament. The main Body of this Fabric fronts the _Rhine_, and there are Apartments commodious enough to lodge a Sovereign, and his Retinue. The Cloister is very spacious, and forms a perfect Square, with the Cells of the _Carthusians_ round it, each of which, consists of four or five rooms, all upon one Floor; plainly, but neatly furnished. The _Carthusians_, after the Hours are over which they devote to spiritual Exercises, cultivate their own little Gardens, or employ themselves in the Work of Joiners, Turners, and the like useful and industrious Occupations.
It may be said, to the Praise of the _Carthusians_ in general, that they always keep clear from the Intrigues of the World, the Converse of Women, and the Ambition of aspiring to Prelacies. They live in a manner, so as that tho' they are not very serviceable to the Public, they cannot do it any Prejudice; which is what can scarce be said of the other Orders.
At the Foot of the _Carthusians_-house, which stands on a very high Hill, is the Palace and Garden of the _Favorita_, belonging to the Elector. _Francis-Lotharius de Schonborn_, caused this House to be erected; the Gardens of which are not extraordinary large, and may be call'd a Labyrinth of Grottos, Cascades, Summer-houses and Statues; but the Whole are heap'd, as it were, one upon another, and ranged with very little Fancy. There's a Salon, accompanied with six Pavilions, detach'd from it, disposed in such a manner, that from each Pavilion there's a Prospect of the _Rhine_, the _Main_, and of all the fine Scenes of the Country on the other Side of those Rivers.
For the rest, 'tis a very dull City, as are almost all the Cities subject to the Ecclesiastical Princes. Nevertheless, there's a great Number of Gentry here, but they scarce ever visit one another, except in Ceremony. The Men rarely visit the Ladies, and seem, to my Mind, to be fondest of the Bottle. One of the chief Diversions of the Inhabitants of _Mentz_ is to go all the Summer long to some neighbouring Places where they use the Waters; such as _Wisbade_, _Schwalbach_ and _Schlangenbadt_. And while these Waters are in Season, _Mentz_, _Francfort_, _Darmstadt_, and all the neighbouring Towns, look as if they were quite forsaken.
I was some Years ago at SCHWALBACH, and was very merry there. 'Tis a little Town, between the Hills, three Leagues from _Mentz_, and belongs to the Landgrave of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_. The Waters which are drank there, very much resemble those of _Spa_ in Taste; but, I think, they are stronger. I am sure, that if _Schwalbach_ was so happy as to be frequented for the sake of its Waters, by two or three _English_ Gentlemen of Distinction, it would make a Fortune out of the People of that Country, and bear away the Purse from _Spa_. The Method of taking those Waters is altogether the same as at _Spa_; and they observe the same Regimen, but with much greater Mirth. For here is a great Room, where every body meets without Distinction of Persons, and where they play at all Sorts of Games; and it's surrounded too with Shops, in which there are a thousand Sorts of fine Toys. Here is commonly a Ball, and sometimes a _German_ Comedy, which really, I think, is but indifferent; and here are often great Feasts, at which every one pays their Quota. But there are generally some Princes here to take the Waters, who make Entertainments for the Gentry.
SCHLANGENBADT, which is a League from _Schwalbach_, is a Place that consists properly of two great Houses, one belonging to the Elector of _Mentz_, and the other to the Landgrave of _Hesse Darmstadt_. Here they use the Hot Baths, which are extremely wholesome for relaxing the Nerves, and for the Stone. Barren Women also frequent this Place; but if they don't take very great Care of themselves, they generally return pregnant.
This, Sir, is all the Account I can give you of _Mentz_, and its Neighbourhood. Having done all my Business here, I am making ready to be gone in a few Days. I propose to go back the same Way that I came, and as I fall down the _Rhine_, I hope in two Days to be at _Cologne_, from whence I shall proceed thro' _Dusseldorff_ towards _Cleves_. There I hope to have a Letter from you, than which nothing can be more welcome. I am, _&c._