LETTER XLVI.
_SIR_, _Cologn, July, 13, 1732._
The Road from _Liege_ to Spa is very disagreeable, and, really, the Place itself is not worth the Trouble of going to it; I mean, for such as are not under a Necessity of using the Waters; for I am not willing to embroil myself with the _English_, who neglect the best Waters in the World, which they have at _Bath_ and _Tunbridge_, to go to those of the _Spa_. Here are several Springs, which the Physicians of the Place adjust to all Distempers. That of _Poubon_, which is in the Middle of the Square of _Spa_, is good for the Gravel, the Sciatica, and in short, for every Thing, except the Stomach; but then, on the other hand, this Part of the human Body may be set to Rights by the Water of the _Geronstere_, which must be taken every Morning, three Quarters of a League from _Spa_, in a little Coppice, where a sorry Hovel is built, to shelter the Water-drinkers from the Rain. But how good soever the _Geronstere_ Spring is for the Stomach, it is of no manner of Service to the Breast; in which Case they must go to another Fountain, of which I have forgot the Name. The Physicians and Inhabitants of _Spa_, good People, consulting their own Interest more than the Health of the Foreigners, tell them absolutely, that they must continue to drink the Waters, at least, six Weeks successively; which Precepts the _English_ follow very readily, and even go beyond them. I knew a young _Irishman_, who for three Years fansied himself to be sick, and was continually taking the Waters of the _Spa_. He would fain have persuaded me, that otherwise he should have died: He complained of a great Pain in his Kidneys; yet he look'd very well, eat heartily, slept sound, and danced like one mad. While I was at _Spa_, I thought myself at _London_, there being ten _Englishmen_ to one Foreigner. I believe that Nation, in short, has laid a Plot to take away _Spa_ from the Bishop of _Liege_. I was overjoy'd to renew my Acquaintance there with Persons of good Families, whom I had known at _London_. Tho' I am extremely prepossessed in Favour of _England_ and _Englishmen_; yet I cannot help agreeing with many others, that they are more amiable, and more sociable Abroad, than they are at Home.
In my Road from _Spa_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, I came to LIMBOURG, the Capital Town of the Duchy of that Name, and truly, the most dismal Capital in the World. It stands upon a Mountain, as it were, by itself, and in one of the most disagreeable Situations that can be imagined. Heretofore it was fortified, but is now dismantled. There are, however, three hundred Invalids that keep Guard here, such a one as it is. The whole Country has a very miserable Appearance; yet I have been assured, that the Inhabitants are very well to pass. They have good Store of Cattle, make a great deal of Cheese, and manufacture very good Cloth, for which they have a great Vend in the _Netherlands_, and at _Frankfort_ Fair; where a great many Pieces are sold, which pass for the Cloth of _Holland_, and even of _England_. The Road from _Limbourg_ to _Aix la Chapelle_, which is four Leagues, is very disagreeable to travel in a Chaise, because of the Rocks and Mountains.
AIX LA CHAPELLE, which is an Imperial City, owes its Foundation to _Charlemagne_, who established the Seat of his Empire here; and, they say, that the Town-house was formerly Part of his Palace. This City is fixed by the Golden Bull, to be the Place for Crowning the Emperors. _Charlemagne_ caused his Son _Louis the Pious_ to be crowned there, by _Hildebold_, Archbishop of _Cologne_; since which, there have been thirty-six Emperors crowned in _Aix_. They who have been crowned elsewhere, have always given an Instrument to the City of _Aix_, and to the Chapter Royal of the Church of our Lady, declaring, that this Ceremony, performed elsewhere, shall be of no Prejudice either to the City, or its Church.
The Annals of _Aix_, among several other miraculous Events, report, That during the Coronation of _Rodolph_ I. there appeared a great bright Cross over the Church of our Lady, as a Mark that God approved of the Choice which the Electors had made of that Prince, according to the Advice given them by _Albert the Great_, of the _Dominican_ Order, Bishop of _Ratisbon_, and _Rodolph_'s Confessor. When the Electors were going to take the Oath of Fidelity to _Rodolph_, according to Custom, the Sceptre which they were to touch, was not to be found; whereupon _Rodolph_, who did not think this Ceremony absolutely needless, took a Crucifix from the Altar: _See_, (said he to the Electors, who stood round _Charlemagne_'s Chair, in which _Rodolph_ sat) _see the Signal of that by which we and all the World have been redeemed; we will make use of this, instead of the Sceptre._ Then kissing the Crucifix very devoutly, it so wrought upon the Princes and Electors, that without staying for the Sceptre, they took the Oath, and paid Homage with their Hands crossing each other. I forgot to tell you, that the Cross which appeared in the Firmament, during this Transaction, tho' white at first, became red as Blood; which being told to the Emperor _Rodolph_, he said, _If God gives me Life, I will go beyond Sea, and there sacrifice my Blood for my Sins, for the Honour of my Saviour_ Jesus Christ. Probably, this Emperor did not live to perform his pious Resolution; for History does not say, that he ever went to Sea; but it mentions, that when this Prince was only the Count _de Hapsbourg_, he met a Priest in a Field, walking on Foot, and carrying the Viaticum to a Person that was sick, and that _Rodolph_, such was his Devotion for the Holy Sacrament of the Altar, alighted from his Horse, and set the Priest upon it, using this Expression, _That it should never be said, that the Man who carried the Saviour of the World, should walk on Foot, while he_, Rodolph, _sate on Horseback_. The Priest, who was wrought upon by the Zeal of the Prince, and inspired by God, prophesied to him, That he should be chose Emperor, and that his Posterity should attain to the highest Honours. The Event has answered the Prediction; for God has so blessed _Rodolph_'s Family, which now goes by the Name of the House of _Austria_, that since his Time, the Imperial Sceptre has not departed from it; _Charles_ VI. being the fifteenth Emperor, besides seven Kings of the _Romans_, who are descended, without Interruption, from the _Rodolphin_ Line.
The Church of _our Lady_ is very ancient, being consecrated by Pope _Leo_ III. in Presence of the Emperor _Charlemaign_, and as many Bishops attended at the Ceremony as there are Days in the Year; of whom, no doubt, a great many were Bishops in Parts beyond the Seas. At this Consecration a Thing happened very surprising and extraordinary; to which you may give as much, or as little Credit as you please. 'Tis, that God, in order fully to answer _Charlemagne_'s Desire to complete the aforesaid Number of Bishops, of which there wanted two, permitted St. _Monulphus_, and St. _Gondulphus_, Bishops of _Tongres_, who had been both dead a long time, and buried in the Church of _St. Servais_, at _Maestricht_, to appear visibly at the Solemnity of this Coronation, and to receive the Pope's Blessing; after which they vanish'd. But I think, without pretending to dive into this Mystery, that if these two Bishops were really Saints, they ought to have given the Pope their Blessing, as being older Saints than the Holy Father. Mean time, that there is such a Story, you are not to doubt; for in the Roof of the Church of _St. Servais_ at _Maestricht_, I saw a Picture that represents it. There is an Angel holding out a Label in the Language of _Brabant_, signifying, Monulphus _and_ Gondulphus, _arise, and go to the Consecration of the Church of_ Aix: And upon their Tomb there is this _Latin_ Distich, expressing their Departure from thence to the Church at _Aix la Chapelle_.
_Excitus bâc arcá_ Monulphus, _Aquisque dicato_ Gondulphus _Templo se reddit uterque Hierarcha._
After such authentick Evidences of so extraordinary a Passage, a Man must be very incredulous not to believe it. I should never have done, were I to give you an Account of all the precious Reliques that are in our Lady's Church, of which you know that the Emperor is by Birth a Canon. The great Reliques are only shown once every seven Years, when Pilgrims come from all Parts, and particularly from _Hungary_; but as they are then only exposed from the Top of a Steeple, the poor Creatures have only the Satisfaction of seeing them at a very great Distance; and after having been regaled by the City of _Aix_, most of 'em return Home, without being able to say what they have seen. The first and most ancient Relique, is the Shift which the Holy Virgin had on when she was delivered of our Lord. Whenever these Reliques are exposed, a Priest makes a Proclamation to the People, what Relique he is going to shew them. The following is the Form of one of those Proclamations.
At the first RELIQUE.
We shall shew you the Linen, the sacred Raiment, in which the Holy Virgin +Mary+, Mother of God, was drest the Night of the Holy Nativity of Our Lord, when she brought forth +Jesus Christ+, Very God and Very Man. Therefore let us beseech God, that we may look upon this sacred Relique in such a Manner, that the Honour and Glory of God may be thereby advanced, and that we may obtain his Grace, and his sacred Benediction.
The other Proclamations are in the same Taste: But so much for Reliques.
In the Church of _Aix_, there is a very great Treasure, consisting of Vessels of Gold and Silver gilt, Copes embroider'd with Pearls, and other sacred Ornaments, which are very rich. There is the Royal Chair, in which _Charlemaign_ sate in his Tomb three hundred and twenty-five Years. 'Tis of white Marble, not polished, because it was covered with Plates of Gold; but what's become of 'em, I know not. 'Tis in this Chair that the King of the _Romans_ goes and seats himself as soon as he is consecrated; and here the Electors, and the Chapter of the Church, go and make their first Obeisance to him, in Quality of King of the _Romans_. The High Altar, and the Pulpit, are covered with Plates of Gold, adorned with Jewels of a great Value, especially an Agate of an extraordinary Size; the Whole given by St. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_, the second Emperor of the _Romans_ of that Name. Were I to give you all the other Particulars of this Church's Treasure, my Letter would swell to a Volume.
The Citizens of _Aix_, being in Hopes to have that Congress there, which was held afterwards at _Soissons_, caused their Town-house to be repaired; so that 'tis now one of the finest in _Germany_. They also built new Baths, very proper and commodious, and the Structure makes a handsome Appearance. _Aix_, take it all together, is a very pretty Town, and there's very good Company here, even when the Waters are not in Season; but the noisy Pleasures are not to be expected. The Houses of the Countess _de Golstein_, and the Baron of _Dobelstein_, are of great Relief. The last is a Gentleman of Merit, and of a good Family, his Father having been a General Officer in the Service of _Joseph Clement_, Elector of _Cologne_; and having served in _France_, the last War, with Reputation. He honoured me with his Friendship, and I revere his Memory.
Of all the Places where the Waters are used, there's none of more agreeable Accommodation than _Aix_; the Lodgings and Provisions here being perfectly good. There's the House of _Bougir_, near the _Fountain_, where the late King of _Denmark_, the Queen, the Princess, and all their Retinue, were lodged very conveniently. This House is exceeding well furnished, and belongs to very genteel People, who, during the Season, hold Assemblies, and give a Ball, in a Room which is perfectly fine.
From _Aix la Chapelle_, I came in less than a Day to _Cologne_, thro' a very even Road, and a flat Country all the Way, excepting a Hill that one ascends going out of _Aix_. I passed thro' JULIERS, the Capital of a Duchy of that Name, upon the little River _Roer_, which is very subject to overflow its Banks. Several Authors will have it, that _Julius Cæsar_ caused this City to be built, while others ascribe its Foundation to _Drusus_. Which of them soever it was, the Town does no Honour to either. There is not one House in it, that can be called a Structure; and I thought the Fortifications were very much neglected. The Castle, or Citadel, which I only saw at a Distance, 'tis to be hoped, is in a better State. The Elector Palatine keeps a good Garison there, commanded by the General _Haxhausen_; whose House is, I think, the best in all _Juliers_. The _Roman_ Catholic is the only Religion exercised in the City, but the _Lutherans_ and _Calvinists_ have their Chapel on the Glacis of the Place; and 'tis natural enough to suppose, that ere long they will have Churches in the Town itself, since nothing stands in the Way but the Life of the Elector _Palatine_; after whose Death, 'tis hardly supposed that the King of _Prussia_ will let a Country slip from him, to which he has such just Pretensions.
COLOGNE is the greatest City in _Germany_, but the saddest in _Europe_. There's nothing to be heard in it but tolling of Bells, and nothing to be seen but Priests, Friers and Students; many of whom beg Alms with a Song. The People of _Cologne_ boast, that _Agrippina_, the Mother of _Nero_, was born there; and that this Princess, in order to give the City signal Proofs of her Good-will and Generosity, very much augmented its Circumference, and peopled it with a Colony of Veteran _Romans_. 'Twere to be wish'd, that this Empress was still living, and that she would take it into her Head to people _Cologne_ again, where there are really more Houses than Families. For 'tis a poor Burgher indeed here, who has not a whole House to himself.
If the Inhabitants of a Town were the more righteous for having a Number of Churches, those of _Cologne_ would be the greatest Saints upon Earth; for they have as many Churches and Chapels as there are Days in the Year. The most considerable is the Metropolitan Church, dedicated to the Apostle St. _Peter_. If it were finished, it would be one of the greatest and most magnificent Buildings in _Europe_; but in its present Condition, it does no very great Honour to the Chapter, which is the most illustrious in _Germany_; the Canons being all born Princes, or Counts of the Empire, who must prove their Nobility from sixteen Descents. There are, indeed, some Canons who are only Doctors; but, properly speaking, they are no more than the Officers of the Chapter. The Bodies of the three Kings that were brought to _Cologne_, lie in a Chapel behind the Choir. They came into the City through a Gate towards the _Rhine_, which was walled up, as soon as the sacred Reliques had pass'd, that nothing might profane it. The Effigies of the three Kings are painted over it. The Inhabitants of _Cologne_ have such a Veneration for these Reliques, that I believe, it would not be proper so much as to question whether they are genuine, in a Company of the Burghers.
The Nobility and Gentry at _Cologne_ are as polite as they are elsewhere; but the Vulgar are extremely clownish. There are very ancient _Patrician_ Families here, who make as plain Proof that they are descended from the old _Romans_, as the Duke _de Ventadour_ in _France_ does, that he is a Kin to the Holy Virgin.
The Town is governed by a Senate, and is a Free Imperial City; nevertheless, the Elector of _Cologne_ holds the Supreme Court of Justice here, by a sort of Chief Justice, or Lieutenant Criminal, who has no manner of Dependance on the Magistrates. The principal Offices are shared among the _Patricians_ or Senators; who keep close at their own Houses, and shun the Nobility, as do all the _Patricians_ of _Germany_. There are very few Families of Quality in this City, considering its Bigness. The Noblemen of the Chapter, are all the good Company to be met with in _Cologne_, and they are respectful to Foreigners; but the greatest Part of 'em are very little in Town; for as soon as their Residence is expired, they either go Home, or remove to other Places, where they are Prebendaries. There are substantial Tradesmen here, who eat well, and drink still better. They may be merry Blades, for aught I know, but I have not kept them Company; and you need not be told, that our _Germanic_ Haughtiness will not permit us to demean ourselves to them.
There are a great many other Curiosities to be seen in this City, particularly the House where the Horses went up of their own Accord into the Garret, to convince a Man, that his Wife, who was buried the Day before, was not dead. You will find the Account of it in _Misson's_[91] Letters. I have been to see the House where the unfortunate Queen _Mary de Medicis_ lodg'd, while she liv'd here, and where she died in a Condition so forlorn, as may be a Warning to the World of the Frailty of Human Grandeur. The ungrateful Cardinal _de Richelieu_, on whom she had heap'd Riches and Honour, not content with having banish'd her out of the Kingdom, abandon'd her to the Want of every thing; and while himself liv'd in the Luxury of the most splendid Fortune, he made the Queen suffer the Martyrdom of Misery and Sorrow. Cardinal _Mazarin_, his Successor in the Ministry, retir'd likewise to this Town, while the whole Kingdom of _France_ was in a Conspiracy against him; but he had the Glory to defeat it.
I shall say nothing to you of the Revenues of this City, because I have seen nobody that could give me the least Insight into that Matter. It maintains some Companies of very sorry Soldiers, who keep Guard at the Gates, at the Town-house, and very insolently search the Luggage of all Comers; which is, certainly, of all Inconveniencies the greatest; because when one is not above two hundred Steps from our Quarters, we are obliged to unloose our Portmanteaus, which are then search'd, and every thing turn'd topsy-turvy; after which, one is obliged to be at the Trouble of putting every thing to rights again, while the very Fellows, that have put all in Confusion, have also the Impudence to ask for a Spill of Money to drink. In other Towns, an Officer goes with you to your Quarters, and you shew him what you have. But the Imperial Cities always affect to differ from others in certain Particularities, which are generally in direct Opposition to their own Interest, and constantly so to the Convenience of the Public.
There are Protestants settled here, who are not the poorest People in the City. They go to Church at _Mulheim_, a Village in the Country of _Berg_, about half a League off.
I set out To-morrow for _Bonn_, where the Elector is expected every Hour. He comes from _Mergendahl_, where he has been elected Grand Master of the _Teutonic_[92] Order, tho' the Pope thought he had Benefices enough before. This is actually the Sixth which the Elector holds at this Time, and I believe the Seventh will not escape him. The least of all brings him in a hundred thousand Crowns a Year. I don't think there's any Harm in the Plurality of Benefices, but in the Abuse of 'em; which is a Thing that cannot be charged to the Score of the Elector. I shall let you know in my next, what I think of this Prince's Court. In the mean time, and always, I am with the most perfect Esteem, &c.