LETTER XXXVII.
_SIR_, _Lyons, March 2, 1732._
Tho' I had pass'd Mount _Cenis_ twice before, and travers'd _Savoy_, yet I thought the Passage of the _Alps_ as disagreeable as ever; and am heartily glad to find myself in this City, which is better than all _Savoy_ put together.
From _Turin_ I went and lay at LA NOVALAISE. I first pass'd by the Castle of _Rivoli_, which stands on an Eminence, and to which there's an Avenue from _Turin_ in a strait Line of three Leagues in Length. Then I travell'd thro' SUSA, which, by the way, is a very dirty Town, upon the Banks of a River form'd by Torrents from the neighbouring Mountains, which seem, as it were, to bury _Susa_ alive. This City, and the Valley in which 'tis built, are commanded by the Fort DE LA BRUNETTE, an important Place, which King _Victor Amedeus_ caus'd to be erected for the Defence of _Piedmont_. Nature and Art have alike contributed to fortify it. 'Tis provided with a good Garison, and all Necessaries to sustain a Siege; and if it had been built in the Time of _Lewis_ XIII. I doubt whether that King, and his Minister the Cardinal _de Richelieu_, would so easily have passed the Mountains.
LA NOVALAISE is a sorry Town, with a wretched Inn, which is the more disagreeable, because Strangers are oblig'd to stop there to unload their Effects, and put them on the Backs of Mules to carry them to the other Side of the Mountain. I was carried over it in a matted Elbow-chair by four Men, who relieved one another at proper Distances, and often took me upon their Shoulders; so that if I had been ever so little given to Chimeras, I should have fansied myself a Pope.
At the Top of the Mountain is a[35]Lake, and also an Hospital, which I thought made but a poor Appearance. Pilgrims are there entertain'd, and other Foot Passengers, for three Days; and there are two Priests to receive the Passengers, and to serve the Church. This is a very laudable Foundation in a sorry wretched Country, where, notwithstanding this Provision, People are often found dead in the Snow. Those poor Reverends may boast, that they live in one of the saddest Places in the World, their greatest Amusement for nine Months in the Year, being to see the Snow fall, and to blow their Fingers. The Descent from Mount _Cenis_ on the Side of _Savoy_ is by much the[36] easiest, where in the Winter-time People have the Pleasure of rolling down in a Sled, which the Country People call _se faire ramasser_. This Way of travelling is very commodious and diverting, and so swift, that an Arrow from a Cross-bow does not fly faster. I knew an _English_ Gentleman that stay'd a Week together at _Lanebourg_, and who, after he had come down this Mountain, went up again and again, purely for the Pleasure of _se faire ramasser_.
LANEBOURG and its Inn are no better than _La Novalaise_; but one is oblig'd to stop again here for fresh Horses. Those who don't travel Post, and make use of the Carriers of _Turin_ or _Chamberry_, are seldom put to this Trouble, because most of these People have Pack-horses on both Sides the Mountain, and have nothing to do but to send their Baggage away, which is very quickly loaded. From _Lanebourg_ to _Chamberry_ all the Road is bury'd, as it were, by Rocks and Mountains, and frightful Precipices: There are Rails indeed, but not strong enough to stop a Carriage: I saw a Cart drawn by four Horses tumble down one of those Precipices, by which the Horses were kill'd, and the Cart with its whole Lading, which consisted of Porcelain and Glass Wares belonging to the Prince of _Carignan_, broke in a thousand Pieces: The Carrier, tho' he was not at all to blame, drew out his Knife in order to stab himself, and wou'd actually have done it, if my Postilion and other People had not hinder'd him.
I pass'd thro' several little Towns in my Way hither, that are not worth mentioning; ST. JOHN DE MAURIENNE is the chief, because 'tis the See of a Bishop, and the Capital of a Province of that Name; 'tis a very antient County, and the first Inheritance of the Princes of _Savoy_; this Valley extends from the _Alps_ to the River of _Isere_ on one Side, and from the _Tarentaise_ to the _Dauphinois_.
CHAMBERRY, the Capital City of _Savoy_, is not a Town where you must expect sumptuous Fabrics, the Houses there making but a mean Figure, yet the Place is not for that Reason one jot the less agreeable; 'tis situate on the Banks of the River _Orbanno_ in a very little Plain encompass'd with Hills, where there are charming Walks, and special Company. There's a great Number of Nobility, who indeed are not the most money'd Men; yet they make good Entertainments, and keep a great deal of Company. The Ladies are beautiful, and the Gentlemen handsome, the common People good-natur'd and civil, and the _Savoyards_ in general are a very good Sort of People. They are accus'd of being too thrifty, but perhaps 'tis more out of Necessity than Inclination; for when a Man is oblig'd to support the Dignity of a Noble or Gentleman, and has but a small Fortune, he is forc'd to be a good Husband whether he will or no.
At the Distance of five Leagues from _Chamberry_ I descended a high Mountain, in which I perceiv'd a Road had been cut for half a League. I saw by a _Latin_ Inscription at the Foot of the Mountain, which I had not Time to copy, that the _Romans_ formerly undertook to make this Road; but, judging it impossible, gave it over; yet _Charles Emanuel_ II. for the Good of his Subjects, and the Public in general, undertook it; and had the Glory to carry it to a Conclusion, which was the most useful and magnificent Thing that a great Sovereign could do: But I question whether he wou'd have accomplish'd it, if, like the _Romans_, he had not made use of Gunpowder. There was a Necessity for the blowing up of prodigious high Rocks for establishing the Bed of the Causey, which is fenc'd on both Sides by Rocks cut out in Form of Walls, that are as high as the Top of the Mountain. This hollow Way is subject to great Mists; when I pass'd, it was the finest Weather in the World on the Plain; but when I enter'd the Valley, I found a Mist so thick, that I could not see my Postilion.
This Mist brought me to the Town of ECHELLES, which is at the Foot of the Mountain at the Entrance of a Plain that leads to _Lyons_. I also pass'd to PONT DE BONVOISIN, a little Town which is shar'd betwixt the Kings of _France_ and _Sardinia_. Both these Princes have their Custom-houses here, the Officers of which are not very tractable. The King of _France_ keeps a Commandant, and two free Companies, in that Part of _Bonvoisin_, which belongs to him. This is the first Town of _Dauphiny_, which is not one of the least Provinces in the Kingdom. It was granted to _Philip de Valois_ by _Humbert de la Tour_, the last Sovereign Prince of _Dauphiny_, who bore the Title of Dauphin of the _Viennois_. History says, that _Humbert_, finding himself childless, made a Grant of his Principality to the King of _France_, and chose a Monastic Life at _Lyons_ in the Order of St. _Dominic_, in the Rules of which he liv'd with the very great Esteem of good Men. He was afterwards elected Prior of this Convent, and nominated Patriarch of _Alexandria_. Some say, that having been the innocent Author of the Death of his only Son, his deep Concern for this Accident made him resolve to embrace the Monastic Life; but others pretend, that having a secret Grudge against the Duke of _Savoy_, whom he was too weak to cope with, he made an Agreement with the King of _France_, on purpose that the Duke might have a Neighbour powerful enough not only to oppose, but to reduce him to Reason. But if this be true, it must be own'd to be a sad Sort of Revenge for a Prince to strip himself of a Sovereignty, purely to injure his Neighbour. I fansy there are few Princes wou'd be of the Humour to take such a Revenge. The same _Humbert_ requir'd, that the eldest Son of _France_ shou'd be styl'd the Dauphin, which was granted him, and has been observ'd ever since. The Duke of _Orleans_, the first Prince of the Blood of _France_, is Governor of _Dauphiny_. This Province has a Parliament, which is held at _Grenoble_. The antient Dauphins resided at _Vienne_, which is an Archbishoprick. 'Twas to the Neighbourhood of this City, that _Herod_ and _Pilate_, our Saviour's Judges, were banish'd.
LYONS is so considerable a City, that the _French_ commonly say, _Next to +Paris+, +Lyons+_[37]. The _Sâon_ runs thro' this City, and the _Rhone_ washes its Walls; 'tis a large opulent City, for the Inhabitants are industrious, laborious, and given to Trading. There's not a Town in _France_, if in the whole World, where they make such fine Stuffs. They endeavour to imitate them at _Turin_, in _Holland_, and elsewhere, but they can't come up to them. The City of Lyons is the See of an Archbishop, who is at present M. _de Rochebonne_, and therein succeeded the late M. _de Villeroi_, Son to the late Marshal of that Name, who was _Lewis_ the XVth's Governor. The _Villeroi_ Family has been for a long time in Possession of the Government of _Lyons_, and the chief Dignities of its Province. The late Marshal obtain'd the Government of _Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_ from King _Lewis_ XIV. who also granted him the Reversion of the said Government for his eldest Son, the Archbishoprick for his second Son, and the Abbey of _St. Peter_ in _Lyons_ for his Daughter. The Duke of _Orleans_, when Regent of the Kingdom, conferred on him moreover the Reversion of the Government of _Lyons_ for his Grandsons the Duke _de Retz_, and the Marquis _d'Alincourt_, and nominated the latter Lieutenant-General of the Province. Tho' Authority generally renders those hated who are vested with it, yet the Gentlemen of the Name of _Villeroi_ have ever escap'd that Fate; 'tis true they have always acted with very great Moderation, and are beneficent, well-bred, civil and generous, so that they are mightily belov'd in _Lyons_, where the late Marshal was as much respected as the King himself; for he procur'd great Advantages for the Province, and for the City in particular.
They tell a very good Story concerning the Admission of the first _Villeroi_ to the Archiepiscopal Dignity of this City. The Chapter of _Lyons_ is one of the most haughty in all _Christendom_, and 'tis not without Reason; for it is founded upon the Blood of above 20,000 Martyrs, and has always been reputed the Seminary of Popes, Cardinals and Bishops, who have been taken from thence to govern the Church. Nobility is inseparable therein from the Priesthood, and 'tis an Observation made by several Authors, that in the third Century the Chapter consisted of seventy-four Canons, of whom one was the Son of an Emperor, nine the Sons of Kings, fourteen the Sons of Dukes, thirty the Sons of Counts, and twenty were Barons. 'Tis no wonder therefore, that the Counts of _Lyons_, for they are not called Canons, made a Scruple to admit for their Archbishop _Camillus de la Neuville_, who was not of their Body, and whom King _Lewis_ XIV. had nominated to this Archbishoprick. _Neuville_ is known to be the Name of the Family of _Villeroi_. The Grandfather of this Prelate was the first of the Family that was of any Eminence; he had been Treasurer of the War-Office, and _Prevôt des Marchands_ of the City of _Paris_; his Grandfather _Nicolas de la Neuville_ had been Secretary of State, and his Father _Charles de la Neuville_ was the first of the Family who had a Title of Honour, which was that of Marquis _d'Alincourt_, Sieur _de Villeroi_, an Estate which _Peter le Gendre_ Treasurer of _France_, had given to his Grandfather. The Marquis _d'Alincourt_ was Governor of _Lyons_ and the _Lyonnois_, and dying in the Service of the King, as Ambassador at _Rome_, his Majesty gave his Son the Archbishoprick of _Lyons_, when it became vacant. The Chapter refus'd to admit him, because he was not of a suitable Rank, nor a Member of their Body; but the King found a way to make himself obey'd, and when the Archbishop harangu'd the Chapter, he took these Words of the Psalmist for his Text, _The Stone which the Builders had rejected, is become the head Stone of the Corner_. The Discourse he made was, they say, as insulting to the Chapter as one would expect from the Choice of the Text. The Dean, whose ready Wit was applauded, made no other Answer to the Archbishop, than by taking the next Verse to that which the Prelate had chose, _viz._ _This is the Lord's (+the King's+) Doing, it is marvellous in our Eyes_. Notwithstanding this, the new Archbishop found means to become both the Spiritual and Temporal Governor of this City; for he was made Lieutenant-General in the Government of the _Lyonnois_ till the Year 1693, when he was succeeded by the Son of the Marshal _Villeroi_ his Nephew, and the latter was succeeded by M. _de Rochebonne_.
The Person who commands in the Absence of the Duke _de Villeroi_, Governor of the City, is the _Prevôt des Marchands_, which is so much the worse for any Foreigner that comes Post; for he is carried to his House, and as strictly examin'd as if he was a Prisoner at the Bar. I was also oblig'd to conform to this Custom; having made me wait a long time in an Anti-chamber, where was a Mixture of People of all Sorts, he appear'd at last with an Air of Importance, which was not natural to him. The Questions he put to me, and the Answers I gave, were very Laconic, and I imagine that there is no Love lost betwixt us.
The _Prevôt des Marchands_ ought to be chang'd every three Years; but when he is acceptable to the Court, he is commonly continued. One wou'd think, that the transitory Grandeur of these Gentlemen shou'd not make them so vain; for when they are turn'd out of their Employment, they make just the same Figure as a Stage-Player, after he has put off the _Roman_ Habit, in which he has represented _Mithridates_ or _Pyrrbus_.
I have reason to be as much pleas'd with M. _Poultier_ the Intendant, as I have to dislike M. _Perichon_, the _Prevôt des Marchands_. I have been to make him a Visit, which he has return'd; and for these four Days that I have been here I go every Night to his House, where I see the best People of this City, in which there's good Company, tho' few Nobility. The Merchants of the first Rank live like petty Sovereigns, and have fine Houses, both in the Town and the Country. If a Foreigner has ever so little Acquaintance here, he cannot fail of being diverted; for the _Lyonnois_ are civil and obliging, and not so much absorb'd in Commerce as to neglect good Manners. They are extraordinary civil to me, and make me very welcome. They delight in Gaming, and are not insensible to Love and the Bottle.
The Comedy here is tolerable, and as much frequented as if it was the best: The Comedians generally make their Fortunes in this City, and if they don't get an Estate, they can at least shew a fine Wardrobe. At one of these Madams Levees a Captain is oblig'd to yield the Precedence to a Journeyman Shopkeeper. There's an old Actress here, who forty Years ago was the Darling of the Generality of _Lyons_: The People of good Taste wish her banish'd from the Theatre, but there's no persuading this superannuated Beauty not to expose her wither'd Charms: She has the Direction of the Comedy, which brings her in 20,000 Livres a Year. An Attempt has been made to cut off her Pension, which really might be better employ'd; but Mademoiselle _Marez_, which is the Name of this Matron, remonstrated, that she cou'd not live with less than 35000 Livres a Year, that her Gallant was not able to furnish her the odd 15,000 any longer, that she had no Estate; and that if they touch'd her Pension, she shou'd be undone for ever. Reasons so just as these prevail'd, so that it was not thought fit to push poor Mademoiselle _Marez_ to an Extremity. A Lady of this Province happening to be in Town, and hearing it reported that Mademoiselle _Marez_ had no less than 15,000 Livres a Year from her Gallant, said smartly, _Ah! base Jade! She ought to be burn'd; She takes the Bread out of the Mouths of above fifteen honest Wives_.
I often take the Air here in the Square of _Belle-Cour_, or _Lewis le Grand_, where I am sure to meet with good Company, there being always a great many very pretty Women, and well dress'd, who act the Ladies of Quality very well. But I mention my Walks at _Belle-Cour_ to you, without acquainting you what Sort of Place it is: 'Tis not pav'd, nor near so wide as it is long: The Houses at both Ends are uniform, and finely decorated; and it were to be wish'd, that those on the two Sides were of the same Proportion. On one Side of this Square there's a Row of Trees, and in the Middle an Equestrian Statue of _Lewis_ XIV. who is there represented on Horseback on a Pedestal of white Marble; but with no other Inscription than the Name, LEWIS XIV. which, after all that can be said, is a great deal of Praise in a little Compass; and the late Marshal _de Villeroi_, who engag'd the Citizens of _Lyons_ to be at the Expence of it, thought it the greatest and most respectful Compliment that cou'd be paid to the Original.
There's another Square here call'd _les Terreaux_, which is worthy of Notice; in the Front of it stands the Town-house, which is a grand and magnificent Edifice of Stone. _Lewis_ XIV. on Horseback is represented in Basso-Relievo over the Gate. On the Left-hand of the Town-house upon the Square of _Terreaux_ stands the Abbey of St. _Peter_, which is a great Building, and, when finish'd, will not want for Magnificence. I am, _&c._