LETTER III.
_SIR_, _Hanover, July 5, 1729._
This Letter is to acquaint you of some things that I remark'd in the Road from _Hamburgh_, and in this City itself; where I have now been these three Days.
I set out from _Hamburgh_ the 22d of _June_, and went by Water to HARBOURG, having sent my Chaise thither the Day before. This Town is a Dependant on the Dutchy of _Lunenbourg_, and belongs to the Elector of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_. It has nothing very remarkable but its Castle, which is a Pentagon, lin'd with a good Cover'd-Way. Madamoiselle _d'Olbreuse_[27], whom the Duke of _Zell_ marry'd, had the Title of Madame _de Harbourg_, till she was recogniz'd by the Emperor a Princess of the Empire. For by the Laws of _Germany_, a Prince of a Sovereign Family can marry none but a Princess, or a Countess. If he weds a private Gentlewoman, he not only marries below himself, but his Wife does not go by his Name; and the Children of such Marriage cannot succeed, unless the Emperor declare the Mother a Princess; as he commonly does in favour of Princes of antient Families.
Between _Harbourg_ and _Zell_, which is twelve Miles, there is scarce any thing but Heath. The Post-Stages, which are of four Miles, are very ill serv'd, and the Inns the worst in _Germany_; all which together render the Road extremely disagreeable.
ZELL is a little Town with great Suburbs. All its Buildings are of Timber, except the Churches, the Castle, and the House of Correction, which are of Brick. There is a Trade from hence to _Bremen_, by the River _Aller_.
After the Death of _George-William_, the last Duke of _Zell_[28], this City, and its Dependency, the Dutchy of _Lunenbourg_, devolv'd to his Nephew _George_, Elector of _Brunswic-Hanover_, afterwards King of _Great Britain_. This Prince had a Regency at _Zell_, which judged all Causes, without any Appeal but to the Council of State at _Hanover_. The President of it at this time, is the Baron _de Friesberg_, a Person of a good Family in the Country of _Hildesheim_; who has been a long time the Elector's Envoy at the Diet of _Ratisbon_, where I knew him, and received a world of Civilities from him. He is esteem'd for the prudent Management of his Office, and his noble manner of living. There are a great many Persons of Quality settled at _Zell_, who for a trifling Expence enjoy the Pleasures of agreeable Society. They visit and regale one another very much, and are not wanting in Civilities to Foreigners. Monsieur _de Schulenbourgh_[29], Lieutenant-General of the _Hanoverian_ Horse, and Knight of the _Prussian_ Order of the Black Eagle, is the Governour of this Town. He is a Gentleman of good Extraction, of Behaviour, Noble, Polite, and Easy; and though he is Father of a numerous Family, he affects to live grand, and keeps a very good Table. One of his Sons is in the Service of _Prussia_, the others are in that of the King of _England_. I mention them to you, because they are worthy Gentlemen; and whoever knows them, cannot but esteem them.
Here are a great many _French_ People, _Catholick_ as well as _Protestant_, of whom the former have a Chapel, and the latter a Church; but the Religion which is predominant, is the _Lutheran_. The last Dutchess of _Zell_, of the Family of _Olbreuse_, being a _French_ Woman, fill'd her Husband's Court and Guards with her own Countrymen; who were even preferr'd before the Natives of _Zell_. I have been told that these _Frenchmen_ really thought themselves so much at home, that there happen'd to be one day no less than a dozen of 'em at Dinner at the Duke's Table, who all except the Prince were _Frenchmen_; which one of them observing, said to the Duke, _My Lord, this is really very pleasant; there is no Foreigner here but you_!
In the Neighbourhood of this Town there's the Castle of _Ahlen_, where, (about nine Years ago,) the unfortunate Daughter of the last Duke of _Zell_, by Madamoiselle _d'Olbreuse_, ended her Days, after she had been retir'd thither about thirty six Years: She had been promised in Marriage to _Augustus-William_, the hereditary Prince of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Wolfemhuttle_; but her Father the Duke, by the Intrigues of the Princess _Sophia_, Dutchess of _Hanover_, marry'd her against her Will, and against the Consent of her Mother, to the hereditary Prince _George-Lewis_, who was afterwards King of _Great Britain_, by Right of his Mother, and who died in the Year 1727, as he came to make the Tour of his hereditary Dominions. She was sixteen Years old at her Marriage with that Prince, who was then twenty-two.
Tho' there's a good deal of Heath between _Zell_ and _Hanover_, yet the Country is very well cultivated; for the Inhabitants not only make Turfs of the Heath for Fewel, but it serves also for Pasturage, and for Manure. 'Tis about five _German_ Miles from one Town to the other, and I travell'd it in less than five Hours.
HANOVER, the Capital of the Electorate of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg_, is bigger than _Zell_. The River _Leine_ divides it into the old and new Towns, which are both encompass'd with Ramparts that scarce deserve the Name. There is nothing very extraordinary in the Palace or Castle, which is rather commodious than magnificent; and the Town of _Hanover_, generally speaking, is but ill built. The most remarkable Structure in it, is the _Roman Catholick_ Church, which was granted to those of that Communion by _Ernest-Augustus_ of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Hanover_; that being one of the Conditions which the Emperor _Leopold_ demanded of him when he honour'd him with the Electoral Dignity. That Prince moreover engag'd to admit of an Apostolical Vicar in his Dominions, and to give him leave to reside at _Hanover_, as _Spiga_, who lately died at _Francfort_[30], did for many Years. Divine Service is perform'd in this Church as regularly as in a Cathedral; and they who officiate in it are Missionaries. The number of Catholicks is very considerable; but few Persons of Quality are of that Communion, the Nobility being all _Lutherans_.
When _George_ I. King of _Great Britain_ left his _German_ Dominions to take possession of his Kingdom, he was willing that all Affairs at _Hanover_ shou'd continue on the same footing as they were before he was called to the Throne; and he left behind him Prince _Frederic_ his Grandson, now Prince of _Wales_; who not only had a Drawing-Room every Day, but the same Attendance as had the Elector before he was King.
His Majesty King _George_ II. has made no Alteration in the Establishment of the King his Father. When he sent for the Prince of _Wales_ to _England_, he order'd the Courtiers to continue their Assemblies at the Castle; and that his Table shou'd always be serv'd in the same manner as if he himself was at _Hanover_. His Majesty keeps up the same number of Gentlemen, Pages, Domestics, and Guards; and the same number of Horses, Grooms, &c. in his Stables. There's a _French_ Comedy acted three times a Week at the Palace, to which all People are admitted _gratis_; and there are frequently Concerts, Balls and Assemblies. The Gentlemen who do the Court-Honours at these Entertainments, and who invite Persons to dine or sup at the King's Table, are either M. _de Hardenberg_, the Grand Marshal, or, in his absence, the Baron _de Gortz_[31], Chief Steward of the Houshold; or else M. _de Rheden_, Captain of the Castle of _Hanover_.
In the King's absence, the Government is compos'd of a Council of State, whereof M. _de Hardenberg_ is Chief or President; which meets every day in an Apartment of the Castle. To this all the Courts of Justice in the Dominions of _Hanover_ are subject, and accountable. The Council of State receives its Orders immediately from the King; and they are counter-signed either by the Count _de Bothmar_, or by M. _de Hattorf_, the two _German_ Ministers that attend his Majesty's Person.
The Count _de Bothmar_[32] is an old Gentleman, who for a long time resided in quality of the Elector's Envoy at the Court of _England_, where, by his prudent Management for his Master, he cherished the most incontestable Right that a Prince can possibly have to a Crown; I mean, the Voice of the People.
M. _de Hattorf_ is not only the Minister's Son, but has been his Co-adjutor, for they had both the War-Office in their Province; for which reason they were called _Louvois_ and _Barbesieux_, a Comparison which does no Dishonour either to the one or to the other: for if the two _Hattorfs_ have not made such a Blaze in the World, 'tis because they had not a _Lewis_ XIV. for their Master, for they were not inferior to the _French_ Ministers in Capacity, and Application to Business, and had not their Pride and Arrogance.
M. _de Munchausen_ is one of those Ministers of State who bears the most Sway. He is of a Temper beneficent, mild, civil, very candid, sober, and religious. He lives with Dignity, and his House is as open to Foreigners as any in the City.
The Marshal Baron _de Bulau_, is Commander in chief of the Forces[33]. He has no manner of Dependance on the Council of State, and receives his Orders immediately from the King, by M. _de Hattorf_ the Secretary at War. The Promotion which the King makes of Officers is by the Recommendation of M. _de Bulau_; and such as would enter into the Service must make their Application to him. He serv'd with Distinction in the _Netherlands_, under my Lord Duke of _Marlborough_. He has actually under his Command 18000 Men, which is the Complement of the King of _Great Britain_'s Forces, as Elector. His Majesty indeed, keeps in pay 12000 _Hessians_,[34] and 4000 Men of the Troops of _Wolfenbuttle_. 'Tis true, those Forces are paid by _England_, but to me it seems they are only to defend the King's Dominions in _Germany_.
Tho' the Sovereign is absent, yet here are not wanting Amusements; there being many good Families, and a number of amiable Persons.
The lovely Countess of _Delitz_, Niece to the Dutchess of _Kendal_, cou'd not fail of Adorers, even in the most barbarous Countries; for the Charms of her Mind are not inferior to the Beauty, Sweetness, and Gracefulness of her Person.
No Lady can have a better Temper or Behaviour than the Baroness _de Bulau_, Daughter-in-law to the Marshal, and Daughter to the late Countess of _Platen_: her Husband is a worthy Gentleman, and keeps a very good House.
The Count _de Platen_, hereditary Post-Master-General, is one of the richest Subjects in the Electorate, and one that spends the most Money. A Foreigner will always have cause to speak well of M. _de Rheden_, Captain of the Castle, and M. _de Wagenheim_, the great Cup-Bearer. Messieurs _d'Ilten_ live splendidly; and both the Brothers, the eldest of whom is a Colonel of the Guards, are amiable and infinitely polite. If ever you come hither, you will certainly have reason to be fond of their Company.
The Situation of _Hanover_ is very agreeable; and in its Neighbourhood are several pretty Seats. Among these _Herenhausen_ (the House of the _Lord_, or the _Master_) is a Castle which was built by Order of the Elector _Ernest-Augustus_, the King's Grandfather. This House, to which a strait Walk leads, bears no proportion to the Magnificence of its Gardens, which are undeniably some of the finest in all _Europe_; being particularly adorn'd with Water-Works that throw the Water up much higher than the famous Fountain at _St. Cloud_, which was always look'd upon as the most considerable of the kind[35].
Between _Hanover_ and _Herenhausen_, there are two fine Seats; of which, one is call'd _Fantasie_, i. e. _the Whim_; and the other, _Monbrillant_, or, _Mount-Pleasant_. They were built by two Sisters-in-law, _viz._ Madame _de Kilmanseck_, (who after her Husband's Death, was by King _George_ I. created Countess of _Arlington_) and the Countess of _Platen_. These two Houses are a Proof of the good Taste of those Ladies, who were really an Honour to _Germany_, for their Beauty, good Sense, Manners, and Genius. They both died in their Prime, a little time after one another; my Lady _Arlington_ in _England_, and the Countess of _Platen_ at _Hanover_, to which she was not only an Ornament, but a Lustre.
The Dominions of _Hanover_ are so considerable, that I have been assured the Revenues are no less than six Millions of Crowns _per An._ Whether this be true, I do not know; but I tell you what I was told myself.
_Hamelen_ upon the _Weser_ is the only Town that can be reckoned a Place of Defence. _Hanover_, _Zell_, and _Lunenbourg_, have Ramparts; _Harbourg_, a Castle, or Citadel; but all so inconsiderable, that they are not worth mentioning.
There are few Sovereigns whose Finances are in so good a Condition as this Elector's; which has been the happy Produce of three succeeding Reigns; and the good [OE]conomy wherewith they were managed by the three last Princes of the Electoral Family, has contributed infinitely to the Figure it makes at this time. Mean-while, notwithstanding these Regulations, the People were never oppress'd, and the Princes always lived with a Splendor suitable to their Grandeur. _Ernest-Augustus_ obtained the Electoral Dignity, not without making great Presents to the Court of _Vienna_, at a time too when his Power was limited to the Dutchy of _Hanover_, and the Bishoprick of _Osnabrug_. Tho' this Prince had a numerous Family to provide for, he lived with Splendor, was fond of Magnificence and Pleasures, gallant, generous, and liberal; and when he died, he left no Debts to pay, and his Finances were in a good State.
GEORGE I. his Son and Successor kept up a considerable Body of Troops, and had a very splendid Court. As his Acquisitions were great, he distributed his Favours where-ever he was inform'd there was a Necessity; and when he came to the Throne, he made no Reform in this Court; so that their not seeing him was the only Token of his Absence. At his Death, he left immense Sums in his Treasury, and so glorious a Character, that his Subjects still bless the Memory of his Reign.
GEORGE II. his Son, and the Heir of his Crown, his Dominions, and Virtues, behaves in the very same manner. While he lives and acts like a King, he neither gives, on the one hand, into the Extravagance of vain Pomp and Pageantry, nor on the other, into that sordid Thriftiness which debases Royal Majesty, and extinguishes the Love of Subjects. He accumulates Treasure without oppressing his People, who love him, and offer up their Prayers for him, as I do for your Preservation; and
_Am_, &c.