LETTER XXIV.
_SIR_, _Inspruc, April 9, 1730._
I travelled hither all the way from _Saltzbourg_, with the same Horses, which is what I will never do again; for travelling by Post is always best; and though 'tis more expensive, yet on the other hand 'tis less fatiguing.
Three Leagues from _Saltzbourg_ stands the little Town of HALLE, which belongs to the Elector of _Bavaria_, and is a Place considerable for its Salt-Pits. It lies in a small Valley crossed by three Rivers, form'd by Torrents from the Mountains, which bring down a vast quantity of floating Wood, that is stopp'd at _Halle_ by the Piles which either cross or shut up the Rivers. They lay the Wood up in store for the Salt-Works, which consume a great quantity of it.
After I had been all over the Salt-Works, I went and din'd at _Schneitzenrieth_, a sorry Village, where, however, I far'd better than I have done at many good Towns.
When I had dined I pursued my Journey, and having travelled four Leagues, entred the Country of TIROL, the Passage to which is very much straitened, so that there's scarce room for a Waggon, by two very high Rocks or Mountains, and two Forts between them, one belonging to the Archbishoprick of _Saltzbourg_, and the other to the County of _Tirol_. Each Sovereign keeps a Garrison in his Fort, and Officers to receive the Duties.
I lay that Evening at WAHTRINGEN, the first Village in the Dominions of _Tirol_, as one comes out of _Germany_. I here found a Parcel of Boys running about with lighted Touchwood in their hands, to the Houses, Woods, and Fields. Having ask'd an old Man the meaning of it, he told me that the Wood so lighted was consecrated by the Parson of the Parish, and had the virtue of securing all Places to which it was carried, against Lightning. This Consecration of the Wood is always perform'd the _Saturday_ before _Easter_, when a great Pile is erected before the Church, into which the Parson throws Holy water, and then sets fire to It. When the whole is well kindled, every one strives to snatch a Firebrand, with which they run to their Houses and Lands, but with so little care that I wonder they don't set every place they come to in a Flame.
From _Halle_ to _Wahtringen_ the Country is every bit uncultivated. The Inhabitants live upon Milk, Pickled Cabbage, and Water-gruel. They have no Corn but what comes from _Bavaria_. All their Substance and Trade is in Cattle, and their Mountains afford excellent Pasture.
Upon _Easter-day_ I heard Mass at _St. John_'s, a great Village where there's a very pretty Church. I was very much pleased with the Sermon that was preached by the Parson, and with the Regularity with which the whole Divine Service was performed.
After Mass I went and din'd at ELVAN, to which place I came through a Valley, which in the Summer time must be very agreeable, but at the present Season is all covered with Snow. I was not more edified at _Wahtringen_, than I was scandalized at _Elvan_, to catch my Landlord, a clever, merry Blade, engaged with one of his Maids in something else instead of telling their Beads. My Presence was so far from spoiling Sport that my Landlord invited me very civilly to do as he did, assuring me that his House was well furnish'd with Nymphs. In a very little time I was convinced that what he said was true, for being obliged by the Cold to stay in the common Room while one was aired for me, I saw half a score Lasses come in, who were all of them my Landlord's very humble Servants, and not in the least disposed to imitate the eleven thousand Virgins.
After Dinner, pursuing my way through Snows and Rocks, I went and lay at _Kundahl_. Next day I got beyond the Snow, and crossed a very pleasant Valley which brought me to RATENBERG, a Town on the Banks of the _Inn_, defended by a Castle built on a Rock, and stronger by its Situation than by its Works. The Elector _Maximilian-Emanuel_ of _Bavaria_ coming before this Castle on the 13th of _June_, 1703, obliged the Garrison, which was composed of the Militia, to surrender at Discretion. From this Fort to _Inspruc_ I always kept along the River _Inn_, which runs through a fine Valley between high Mountains that are much steeper on the right side of the River than the left; nevertheless there are Houses on them that are inhabited by the Miners. I can't imagine how it was possible for the good People to build in Places so inconvenient; for their Houses look as if they were stuck on to the Rocks, and as if nothing but a Goat or a Swallow could come at them. The whole Valley is very populous, and abounds with pretty Villages, Castles, and fine Country-Houses.
At the end of it stands the Town of SCHWATZ, which is very well built. The Parish Church is an ancient, fair, large Edifice; and wholly covered with Copper, as most of the Churches in _Tirol_ are with Tin painted green, which has a very pretty look. The Houses at _Schwatz_ are generally of Brick, so that 'tis very rare to see one of Timber. I observ'd at the Inn where I din'd, and throughout the whole Country of _Tirol_, that when People came into any House, they said to the Master of it, _Hail, Jesus Christ!_ to which he answered, _May Christ be praised, and the holy Virgin his Mother_. Then the Master of the House stepp'd forward, and took the Visitor by his hand. This method of saluting is practised among all the People throughout _Tirol_; and the Salutation is fix'd up in Print at all the Doors, with an Advertisement tack'd to it, importing, that Pope _Clement_ XI. had granted an hundred Days of Indulgence, and plenary Absolution, in favour of those who should pronounce the Salutation and the Answer.
After having din'd at _Schwatz_, I continued to ride along the _Inn_; and three Leagues beyond that I pass'd the River, over a Bridge near _Fultishau_, a fine Convent of the Servite-Fryars, and went to HALLE, the second City of _Tirol_. The reverend Fathers the _Jesuits_ have a fine House here, and a noble Church, with a great Garden to it. The Mint is also worth seeing, where they coin a great quantity of Species from the Silver and Copper taken out of the Mines of _Tirol_. The Water is brought to it by wooden Pipes. They drive a great Trade at _Halle_ in Copper, Tin, and Salt, which is produced there in abundance, the Vent of it being promoted by means of the River _Inn_, which becomes navigable at _Halle_.
From this Town to _Inspruc_ 'tis two Leagues, and a strait even Road which deserves to be planted on each side with Trees. INSPRUC, the Capital City of _Tirol_, stands in the middle of a Valley, on the Banks of the _Inn_, over which there's a wooden Bridge that leads to the Suburbs. _Inspruc_ was heretofore the Residence of the Archdukes, the Sovereigns of _Tirol_; but since the august House of _Austria_ has been reduced in _Germany_ to the Imperial Branch singly, this City has been only subject to Governors, who however were always great Noblemen. _Charles_ Duke of _Lorrain_, who married the Queen Dowager of _Poland_, Sister to the Emperor _Leopold_, and who made himself famous by the Victories which he gain'd over the _Turks_, held this important Office. That Prince dying at _Inspruc_, was succeeded by _Charles_ Prince Palatine of _Newbourg_, Brother to the Empress _Eleonora_, _Leopold_'s third Wife, but he renounced the Government of _Tirol_, on his Accession to the Electorate. He liv'd at _Inspruc_, with great Pomp, and his Absence is still very much lamented there. Since he went away, the Government of _Tirol_ has remain'd vacant. They say 'tis designed for the Archduchess _Mary-Magdalen_, the Emperor's youngest Sister. This I know is what the Burghers of _Inspruc_ wish for; but I don't think the Nobility do; because the Presence of the Archduchess would oblige the People of Quality to be at very great Expence; for they would be under a necessity of going to Court, as well as of carrying it more civilly to their Vassals.
The Count _de Konickel_ is the Chief of the Regency: He has the Title of _Landshauptman_, which is much the same with Lieutenant-General of the Province, wherein he has the absolute Command, and all the Sovereign Courts depend on him. This Nobleman is a _Tirolese_, and lodges in a fine House which has been built by order of the States of _Tirol_, for the Residence of their _Landshauptman_. He conducts himself with Dignity, and is civil to Foreigners.
'Twas at _Inspruc_ that the Emperor _Charles_ V. received one of the greatest Shocks he had met with in all his Life. For he was surprized there with his Brother _Ferdinand_, King of the _Romans_, by _Maurice_ Elector of _Saxony_, who, though his Creature, made War upon him nevertheless, on account of Religion. The Emperor and his Brother were so near being taken that they had but just time to make their Escape to _Villaco_, a little Town upon the _Drave_ in _Carinthia_. This was a terrible Reverse of Fortune for a Prince, who, but a few years before, had a Pope and a King of _France_ too, his Prisoners.
_Maximilian-Emanuel_ Elector of _Bavaria_ was not more fortunate at _Inspruc_ than _Charles_ V. for though he made himself Master of it in _June_ 1703, he was obliged to abandon it in _July_ following, and to retire to _Bavaria_, after having tried in vain to force Passes which were in a manner inaccessible by Nature, and guarded not only by the Peasants but by regular Troops. His Design was to have joined M. _de Vendosme_ in the County of _Trent_, and by that means to have opened a Communication with the _Milanese_. The Elector, whilst he was retreating, ran the hazard several times of losing his Life; and his Troops were for the most part knock'd o' th' head by Stones which the Peasants hurl'd at them in the Defiles which they were obliged to pass.
The City of _Inspruc_ is absolutely defenceless, and were it not for its Suburbs, would be one of the least Cities in all _Germany_; but those Suburbs are very large, and the Residence of Persons of the greatest Distinction. The Houses are very commodious, well built of Brick, and for the most part with Piazzas, which is a great Conveniency to the Foot-passengers. There was heretofore great Store of Salt here, but for some years past the Pits are dry, which is a Loss to _Inspruc_ of no less than 200,000 Florins a-year.
Though the City is small yet there are several very fine things to be seen in it. Such is the ancient Palace of the Archdukes, a vast large Structure, but without Architecture, or any manner of Regularity. There are Pictures in it done by skilful Hands, particularly in that call'd the Giant's-Hall, where the Story of _Dejanira_ is represented with very great Art and Perfection.
The Palace has very great Gardens belonging to it, but they are not well kept; yet there are the Remains of noble Fountains and brazen Statues. Among the latter is an Equestrian Statue of an Archduke of _Austria_, who is represented as large as the Life, in Armour, with Breeches after the Fashion of the Ancients, a Ruff, and little Boots. The Horse seems to rest upon his Haunches, in an Attitude as if he was just ready to leap off the Pedestal.
The Prince _Charles_ of _Newbourg_, the present Elector Palatine, finding the old Castle not commodious enough, caused one to be built of Wood; which was some years ago burnt down to the ground by an accidental Fire.
The Parish Church is of modern Building, with a great Dome raised in the middle of the Cross. The whole Architecture of this Edifice is of the _Corinthian_ Order. The Front is expos'd to an advantagious Point of View on a Square, and is adorned with three Orders, one above another, which makes the Fabric to rise in the whole to about 120 Foot height, exclusive of a great flight of Steps to it, after the manner of _Italy_. All the Parts of this Structure are charged with Ornaments of a clumsey Invention, and very ill executed; so that the Confusion resulting from it is infinitely shocking to those that have a nice Taste of Architecture. The Inside is more tolerable than the Outside, and is even magnificent. The whole Length from the Entrance to the Foot of the High-Altar, is 432 Feet. The Foundation of it was laid while _Charles de Newbourg_ was Governor of _Tirol_, who plac'd the first Stone of it. The whole Decoration of this Church consists in Pilasters of red Marble, with a Vein of white, and the Chapiters are of Plaister. The Roof is painted in Fresco by _Gosman-Daniel Ossem_, a Native of _Munich_, who has succeeded so well as to give entire satisfaction to such as have a Taste for, and Skill in things that are curious. The High-Altar stands under the Arch at the end opposite to the Nave of the Church. 'Tis perfectly magnificent, adorned with four great Pillars of the Composite Order, of green Marble with white Veins, whose Chapiters and Basons are of Marble of various Colours; and they support a Canopy, which is form'd by four Curves fill'd with a Glory.
The Tabernacle and the Front of the Altar are of massy Silver, charged with several Mouldings, and Foliages of Silver gilt; and there are few Altars more splendidly decorated. There is a miraculous Image of the holy Virgin, which the Archduke _Leopold_, the Sovereign of _Tirol_, brought hither from _Dresden_. That Prince made a Visit to the Elector of _Saxony_, who shewing him his Treasure, desir'd him to chuse any Piece that he lik'd best; _Leopold_ singled out this Figure, because he was told that in the early days of Lutheranism, it had been cast three times in the Fire, and always taken out again without any damage. The Archduke on his return to his Dominions, made a Present of this Image to the Parish, and it has ever since been held in great veneration, and never fail'd of working great Miracles. Three great Lamps of massy Silver are continually burning before it; and the other Chapels have each a Lamp of solid Silver whose Light is always shining. All this Plate was given to the Church by the Elector Palatine.
The famous golden Roof is near the Parish Church, and serves to cover a Balcony of the Chancery which fronts the Square. They say that _Frederic_ of _Austria_, the Sovereign of _Tirol_, caused this Roof to be made, to let his Subjects see that he was not so bare of Money as they thought him, and that he did not deserve the Nickname they had given him of the _Pennyless Prince_. There are many however who affirm that this Roof is not of Gold, while others say the contrary. As far as I can judge of it, I believe 'tis of Copper only covered with very thin Plates of Gold, and by consequence of no great Value. And supposing the whole Roof was of solid Gold, I don't believe the Expence was very extraordinary, though to be sure it was by much too great for so mean a purpose.
The House or College of the reverend Fathers the Jesuits, is a very great Building in which no Cost has been spared. Its principal Front is 166 Paces in length. These Fathers are the Directors of the University. Near to their College is the Church of the _Franciscans_, whose Convent was founded by the pious Legacies of the Emperor _Maximilian_, who on his Death-bed ordered his Successor to cause this House and Church to be built at _Inspruc_. His Grandson _Ferdinand_ I. Son to _Philip_ the Fair, perform'd his Will, and in honour of his Grandfather's Memory, raised him a Marble Tomb which may be rank'd among the most stately _Mausoleums_ in _Europe_. The Emperor _Maximilian_ is there represented on his Knees upon a Cushion, with his Hands lifted up to Heaven, and as it were prostrate in Prayer: He is adorned with the Crown, and the Imperial _Dalmatic_. This Figure is of a gigantic Size, and admirably well done in Brass. 'Tis plac'd on a great high Base of black Marble, forming an oblong Square, on an Ascent of three Steps of red Marble. The whole Base is divided into twenty-four Compartiments, or square Tables of white Marble, representing the memorable Actions of _Maximilian_ in excellent Bas-Reliefs. The four cardinal Virtues in a mournful Attitude, are represented in Brass, as sitting on the Corners of the _Mausoleum_, and looking on _Maximilian_'s Statue. The entire _Mausoleum_ stands by itself in the middle of the Church; and the following Inscription is engraved in Letters of Gold all round the Base of this Monument;
IMPERATORI CÆSARI MAXIMILIANO, PIO, FELICI, AUGUSTO, PRINCIPI TUM PACIS TUM BELLI ARTIBUS OMNIUM ÆTATIS SUÆ REGUM LONGE CLARISSIMO; SUB CUJUS FELICI IMPERIO INCLYTA GERMANIA, DULCISSIMA IPSIUS PATRIA, TAM ARMIS QUAM LITERARUM STUDIIS PLUS QUAM UNQUAM ANTEHAC FLORERE CAPUTQUE SUPER ALIAS NATIONES EXTOLLERE C[OE]PIT: CUJUS INSIGNIA FACTA TABELLIS INFERIORIBUS, QUAMVIS SUB COMPENDIO, EXPRESSA CONSPICIUNTUR. IMPERATOR CÆSAR FERDINANDUS, PIUS, FELIX, AUGUSTUS, AVO PATERNO PERQUAM COLENDO, AC BENE MERITO, PIETATIS ATQUE GRATITUDINIS ERGO POSUIT. NATUS EST DIE XXVII MARTII ANNO DOMINI M.CCCC.LIX. WELSÆ IN AUSTRIA DENATUS.
All this fine _Mausoleum_ was executed with very great Care and Skill, by _Alexander Colin_, a Native of _Mechlin_; the Picture of which ingenious Painter, and that of his Wife, are kept in the Church, as an Acknowledgment due to that excellent Artist. This _Mausoleum_ was mightily enriched by the Magnificence of _Frederic_ Archduke of _Austria_, surnamed the _Pennyless Prince_, who caused to be placed in the Nave of the Church twenty-eight Statues of Brass seven Foot in height, representing so many Princes and Princesses that were related to the House of _Austria_. They are set up in two Rows from the great Gate to the Altar, and therefore separate the Nave from the two Wings on the Sides. 'Tis pity that those Statues are in the hands of Monks who neglect them very much, and suffer the Dust to eat into them. They would do much better in a Royal Palace: Some of them are in great perfection. I fancy you will be glad to know the Names of the Persons they represent.
* * * * *
I. The first, beginning on the right Side of the Altar, is the Figure of _Joan_ of _Castile_, Mother to _Charles_ V. and _Ferdinand_ I. the Heads of the two Branches of the House of _Austria_; the first of which became extinct by the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, but the second still flourishes among us with Glory in the Person of the August _Charles_ VI.
II. _Ferdinand_ the Catholic, Father to _Joan_.
III. _Cunigonda_ Archduchess, Daughter to the Emperor _Frederic_ IV. and Wife to _Albert_ of _Bavaria_, who died a Nun.
IV. _Margaret_, Daughter to _Henry_ Duke of _Carinthia_ and Count of _Tirol_, surnamed the _Pious_, because she founded and built several Convents. This Princess was nicknamed _Margaret Wide-Mouth_: She was marry'd first to _John_ Margrave of _Moravia_, Son to the Emperor _Charles_ IV. whom she surviv'd, and marry'd to her second Husband _Lewis_, Margrave of _Brandenburg_, Son to the Emperor _Lewis_ of _Bavaria_, whom she also surviv'd, and finding herself a Widow a second time, and without Issue to enjoy what she had, she made a Present of the County of _Tirol_ whereof she was Sovereign, to her Cousins _Rodolph_, _Albert_, and _Leopold_ of _Austria_, which Grant was confirm'd by the Emperor _Charles_ IV. in 1364.
V. _Mary of Burgundy_, Wife to the Emperor _Maximilian_ I. the richest Heiress of her Time.
VI. _Elizabeth_, the Daughter of the Emperor _Sigismond_, and Wife to the Emperor _Albert_ II. who carry'd the Duchy of _Luxembourg_ to the House of _Austria_. She was Mother to the unfortunate King _Ladislaus_.
VII. _Godfrey_ of _Bouillon_, Duke of _Lorrain_, King of _Jerusalem_, plac'd here among the Princes of the House of _Austria_, as being descended from the same Family as they.
VIII. _Albert_ I. Emperor.
IX. _Frederic_, Archduke of _Austria_, he who was nicknamed Prince _Pennyless_.
X. _Leopold_ of _Austria_, surnamed the _Virtuous_, Son of _Albert_ the _Wise_.
XI, and XII. Opinions are very much divided about the Persons who are represented by these two Statues; but 'tis generally thought they are the Emperors _Charles_ V. and _Ferdinand_ I.
XIII. The Emperor _Frederic_ IV. Father to _Maximilian_ I.
XIV. _Albert_ II. Emperor, King of _Hungary_ and _Bohemia_, and Father to the unfortunate King _Ladislaus_.
XV. _Clovis_, the first Christian King of _France_, who is plac'd among the Princes of the House of _Austria_, because their Genealogists derive them from the ancient _Franks_ who subdued _France_.
XVI. _Philip_ I. call'd the Fair, King of _Spain_.
XVII. The Emperor _Rodolph_ I.
XVIII. The Archduke _Albert_, call'd the _Wise_.
XIX. _Theodoric_ King of the _Goths_. I am not a Genealogist good enough to tell you in what Relation he stands to the House of _Austria_.
XX. _Ernest_, Archduke, Grandfather to _Maximilian_ I.
XXI. _Theodebert_ Count of _Provence_, from whom descended the Dukes of _Burgundy_ and the Counts of _Hapsburg_.
XXII. _Arthur_, Prince of _Wales_, who marry'd _Catherine_ of _Arragon_.
XXIII. _Sigismond_, Archduke and Count of _Tirol_, who adopted the Emperor _Maximilian_ I.
XXIV. _Blanche Mary_, the second Wife of _Maximilian_ I. which Princess was the Daughter of _John Galeas_ Duke of _Milan_.
XXV. _Margaret_, Daughter of _Maximilian_ I. who was marry'd first to _John_ a Prince of _Spain_, and secondly to _Philibert_ Duke of _Savoy_.
XXVI. _Cimburge_, Wife of _Ernest_ the Archduke, and Mother to the Emperor _Frederic_ IV.
XXVII. _Charles_ the _Bold_, Duke of _Burgundy_, Father to _Mary_ of _Burgundy_ who was Wife to _Maximilian_ I.
XXVIII. _Philip_, Duke of _Burgundy_, Father to _Charles_ the _Bold_.
* * * * *
Besides these twenty-eight Statues there are twenty three others plac'd upon the Cornish of the Portico which separates the Nave from the Choir: They are of Brass two Foot high, and represent those Kings and Princes whom the Church honours as Saints.
I am farther to acquaint you of the Chapel of this Church, call'd the Silver Chapel, because of the Image of the Virgin there of solid Silver as big as the Life in the middle of the Altar, with a great many Images of Saints all of the same Metal. The Ascent to this Chapel is by a winding Stair-Case. Here is to be seen the stately Tomb of _Ferdinand_ Archduke of _Austria_, Count of _Tirol_, Son to the Emperor _Ferdinand_ I. This Mausoleum is under an Arch which is pretty high. _Ferdinand_, whose Figure is of white Marble, seems to be asleep upon a Bed of black Marble rais'd one Foot from the Ground. The whole Arch is lin'd with Marble of various Colours, forming divers Compartments of very curious Workmanship, where you see the Arms of the Provinces reduc'd to the Obedience of the House of _Austria_: The different Colours are shewn by precious Stones enchas'd in Marble, and so curiously done that the Work seems to be enamel'd. Round the same Arch are plac'd five Bas-Reliefs, representing in as many Pictures the memorable Actions of _Ferdinand_. Five other Bas-Reliefs contain the Images of that Prince's Patrons, _viz._ JESUS CHRIST, St. _Anthony_ of _Padua_, St. _George_, St. _Thomas_, and St. _Leopold_.
Near the said Tomb stands that of _Philippina_ of _Welserin_, who was born at _Augsburg_, and the Wife of the Archduke _Ferdinand_, by whom she had two Sons, _Charles_ the Margrave of _Burgau_, and _Andrew_ Cardinal of _Austria_. This _Mausoleum_ is of Free-stone and has nothing remarkable more than the following Epitaph:
FERDINANDUS D. G. ARCHIDUX, DUX BURGUNDIÆ, COMES TIROL, PHILIPPINÆ CONJUGI CHARISSIMÆ FIERI CURAVIT. OBIIT 24 Aprilis, 1580.
The Franciscan who shew'd me this Chapel assur'd me that it was one of the First-rate Chapels in the World, on account of the Indulgences which had been annex'd to it by the Beneficence of the Popes; that it was upon a par with the Chapel of the _Holy Sepulchre_ at _Jerusalem_, with the Churches of _St. John de Lateran_, _St. Mary major_, and _St. Gregory_ at _Rome_; and that, in fine, a Mass said in this Chapel for the Repose of a Soul departed, was enough to deliver it out of Purgatory.
These, Sir, are the Remarks that I made in this City, from whence I am making ready to set out to-morrow. I expect to be well jolted all the way to _Venice_, where to make my self amends I will take my Pleasure in a _Gondola_. I wish with all my heart I had your Company there; we should then have the Satisfaction of seeing a great many fine Sights together. But for want of this Satisfaction I shall never cease to think of you; and pray don't forget me, but believe me to be for ever, _&c._