LETTER XX.
_SIR_, _Manheim, March 17, 1730._
In going from _Heidelberg_ to MANHEIM we leave the _Necker_ on the right hand, but keep almost all the way by the side of that River. 'Tis three Leagues from one City to the other, over a fruitful Plain. _Manheim_ lies between the _Rhine_ and the _Necker_, in a marshy Country, which has always been reckon'd very unwholesome. About fourscore Years ago this City was but a Village. _Frederic_ Elector _Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_, caus'd it to be fortify'd, and built a Castle or Citadel there, which he call'd _Fredericsbourg_. At the same time a Town was built, of which all the Streets run parallel, the chief that passes thro' the middle of the Town was planted with Trees after the manner of _Holland_. But the _French_ having taken _Manheim_ in 1693, raz'd it to the ground, and by the Treaty of _Nimeguen_ it was stipulated that _Manheim_ should be demolished; which was done accordingly. _John-William_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector, began again to fortify _Manheim_, according to the Plans laid down by the famous _Cohorn_; but those Works were suspended, so that no more than two Bastions and a Courtain were finish'd. When the present Elector _Charles-Philip_ came to live at _Manheim_ he caus'd those Works to be resumed which his Brother had discontinued, and to be carried on with such Diligence that in a few Years he put the Place in a state of Defence[131]. The Fortifications are all fac'd with Brick; and _Manheim_ is now one of the best Places in all _Germany_.
This City has three fine Gates, of which that of the _Necker_ is the most magnificent, and the best adorned; in which one sees beautiful Basso-relievos, after a Plan very happily executed. This Gate opens towards a long and spacious Street, at the end of which stands the Elector's Palace, one of the largest and most substantial Buildings in _Europe_. It were to be wish'd indeed that the Architecture had been more regular: Never had any Architect more Advantage, for he built it new from the Foundation, was not stinted for want of room, and as he set no Limits to his Expence, I should have thought that a masterly hand might have produc'd something curious. Nevertheless there are Faults in the Building which are shocking to such as have the least Skill in Architecture; insomuch that they who have a Taste for that Science are sorry that a Building which has been so expensive has been no better conducted. The Situation of this Palace is indeed very fine, at the end of the City, and of a very noble large Street, which like all the rest runs in a strait Line. The Palace, which has a great Square before it, consists of a large number of Lodging-Rooms, with a great high Pavilion in the middle, and two advanc'd Wings, with ample Pavilions at the ends; where two other very extensive Wings rise on both sides that are likewise terminated by Pavilions, behind which there are other Lodging-Rooms. The inside of the Palace is form'd by two great Courts, which are to be separated by an open Gallery or Terrass, the Model of which is very much adorned with Architecture; but I can't think it will look well when 'tis done. The Apartments are adorn'd with fine noble Floors and Cielings, and have the finest Prospect in the World to _Spire_, _Franckendahl_, _Worms_, and all the Country in general, as far as the Mountains of _Alsace_, which consists wholly of Towns and Villages. All this fine fruitful Country is water'd by the _Rhine_, which passes behind the Palace of _Manheim_, and washes its Fortifications. Upon this beautiful Canal there are to be the Gardens of the Palace, for which there are intended two Courtains and a Bastion.
'Tis almost inconceivable how the Elector was able to get all the Works about _Manheim_ finished in so few Years; for in short I remember to have seen Partridges where there are now Houses and Palaces. The whole Town is laid out in a most regular and charming manner; and 'tis without dispute one of the prettiest Towns in _Europe_. 'Tis pity the Houses are not higher: The reason they alledge for it is, that _Manheim_ is a fortify'd Town, and that by consequence the Houses ought to be low. I know not what Authority there is for this, since _Strasbourg_, _Metz_, _Luxembourg_, and _Lisle_, are Places of much more Importance than _Manheim_, and yet the Houses are as high there as they are in other Towns.
The Palace is commodious, and yet, for what reason I know not, the Elector does not live in it[132]. Some say that he has been told of so many Faults in it as have quite put him out of conceit with it, and others that 'tis because a certain Astrologer prophesy'd he would die there; but I am apt to believe that the latter Reason is no more than a Joke, and I dare to say that the Elector is too wise a Man to credit it. Mean time this Prince dwells in a House belonging to a _Jew_, to which several other private Houses are join'd; but for all that the Lodgings are very bad.
There can't be a better-natur'd Man than _Charles-Philip_ of _Newbourg_, Elector _Palatine_. He is the best of Masters, and the most affable of Princes. He is reckoned extremely handsome, and one of the chief Dancers in his time; and he has a noble Aspect. His Behaviour and Conversation engage one to love him, and to pay one's court to him out of pure Inclination. He formerly was fond of Pomp and Pleasure, but since the loss of his only Daughter and his Son-in-law, who died within a few Years one of another, he seems to be no longer taken with what was heretofore his Amusement. The Elector has been twice marry'd, _viz._ first to _Louisa-Charlotte_ Princess of _Radzeville_, and secondly to _Theresa Lubomirski_, both _Polish_ Ladies. The former left him a Daughter that was marry'd to _Joseph-Charles_ Prince _Palatine_ of _Sultzbach_, but died in 1728; as did her Husband the Year following. This Princess had such Beauty and Merit, that she was the Comfort of her Father and the Admiration of her Acquaintance. She left three young Princesses, whom the Elector causes to be educated at his Court, where they are now all that he has to delight him; but then they incessantly renew to him the sorrowful Remembrance of a Daughter who was extremely dear to him.
The Death of that Princess has been a very great Affliction to the Elector, and chang'd the Face of the _Palatine_ Court. Indeed as to Affability, and to the Goodness of his Temper, he is still the same Elector, but he has no longer that Gaiety of Humour which his Daughter's Company rais'd in him; for she had a thousand different Amusements for him, and Pleasures and Merriment every where accompany'd her. The Elector eats always in private, except on Holidays, and when there's any foreign Prince at his Court. After he has been in public at Mass, he commonly stops in one of his Apartments to chat with the Courtiers, or to play at Billiards till Dinner-time. After Dinner he goes to Bed, and lies there two Hours; then he rises, and after having caus'd himself to be dress'd, he gives Audience to his Ministers, and to such private Persons as want to talk with him. He is very attentive to those who speak to him, and answers them with Good-nature and Kindness. He seldom refuses what is in his power to grant; and when Reasons force him to a denial, 'tis visible that he is uneasy, and he refuses in so civil a manner, that People go away at least comforted, if not contented. At six o'clock in the Evening the whole Court meets in his Electoral Highness's Apartment, where there is Play till nine o'clock, and then the Elector retires, makes a very slight Supper, and goes to Bed in good time.
Tho' the Elector dines in private there's always a Table sumptuously serv'd for the hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_, Brother to him who was the Elector's Son-in-law. This passes for the Elector's Table, is spread for eighteen Guests, and is serv'd by Pages.
The Prince _de Sultzbach_ is look'd upon as the Elector's Heir, because 'tis not supposed that the Elector's Brother, the Elector of _Mentz_, would be willing to quit the first Electorate of the Empire, and the great Benefices which he possesses, to become Elector _Palatine_, if he should happen to survive his Brother[133]. The Bishop of _Augsbourg_, the Elector's second Brother, being a Priest, cannot succeed. The Prince _de Sultzbach_'s Father is still living; but being as old as the Elector, he is not like to survive him very long[134]. The Prince _John-Christian_ of _Sultzbach_ was born in 1700. He is the Widower of the Princess _de la Tour_ of _Auvergne_, who brought him for her Portion the Sovereignty of _Bergopzoom_; and left him a Son, who is educated at _Brussels_ with his Great-Grandmother the Duchess Dowager of _Aremberg_. The Prince _John-Christian_ is tall and extremely corpulent, insomuch that 'tis well if he has not the Dropsy. He spent the first Days of his Youth at the Court of _Lorrain_ in _France_, and in the _Netherlands_, by which Travels he acquired a great deal of Politeness. He was lately betrothed to _Eleonora-Philippina_ of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_, Sister to the Princess of _Piedmont_[135], and to the Duchess of _Bourbon_. This Princess is every day expected from _Turin_, to which Place she accompanied her Sister. Their Highnesses will then go and keep their Court at _Heidelberg_[136].
The Principal Noblemen of the _Palatine_ Court are the following:
_Francis-George_ Count of _Manderscheldt-Blanckenheim_[137], the Steward of the Houshold, Prime Minister, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is of illustrious Extraction; is a Man of Integrity and very great Probity, incapable of doing an ill thing, but not at all engaging in his Deportment; for he is reserved, with an Air of Haughtiness, which is a Defect that he was born with, and endeavours to conquer, but cannot. When one knows him intimately he proves a good Friend, and capable of doing one Service. He has very great Pensions from the Elector, and is the oldest of his Family, which being pretty numerous, he does not live in a very grand manner.
The Baron _de Sickingen_ is Great Chamberlain, Minister of State, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is a Gentleman of a fine Presence, of an easy and engaging Access, with profound Learning, and Sentiments suitable to his Birth. He was Governor of the late Prince _de Sultzbach_, Son-in-law to the Elector; and he imprinted such Ideas of Men and Things in the Mind of that young Prince, as gave great hopes that his Government would be happy if ever he attain'd to it. M. _de Sickingen_ was afterward the Elector's Envoy Extraordinary to the Imperial Court; and I knew him at _Vienna_ where he was exceedingly beloved. At his return he succeeded his Brother in the Office of Great Chamberlain, which he exercises with the Approbation of the whole Court.
_John-Frederic_ Count _de Globe_, is Grand Marshal, Minister of State, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is very rich, and has a fine Estate in _Bohemia_. He was once the Elector's Page, who finding him at the bottom a Man of Integrity and Honour, took care of his Fortune, gave him the best Employments at his Court, and raised him to the Dignity of Count. M. _de Globe_ has been seldom at _Manheim_ for some Years past; which is a Loss both to Court and City, because he liv'd very nobly, and more than all, was very civil to Foreigners[138].
The Baron _de Wohlin_ is Master of the Horse[139]. He is one of those Men in whom we meet with that Candor and Probity so much boasted by our Fathers.
The Count _de la Tour_ and _Taxis_ is Captain of the Life-Guards, Lieutenant-General, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. His Carriage seems blunt and proud, yet he is familiar with those that are in his Confidence. He has considerable Credit at Court, owing to his Sister's being so long in favour with the Elector.
_Julius Augustus_ Count _de la Marck_, Lieutenant-General, Captain of the hundred _Swissers_, and Knight of St. _Hubert_, is descended of an illustrious Family in the Empire. He spent part of his Youth in the Service of _France_, where his eldest Brother is now actually a Lieutenant-General, Colonel of a foreign Regiment, and a Commander of the Order of the _Holy Ghost_. He has learnt all the _French_ Politeness; his Behaviour resembles the Man of Quality; his Temper is gay, and he loves good Cheer, Joy and Pleasures.
The Count _Egmont de Hatzfeldt_ Lieutenant-General, Minister of State, and Secretary at War, comes from one of the best Families in the Empire, This Nobleman is extraordinary civil; his House is open to all Persons of Distinction; he lives very nobly, and both his Lady and himself are very fond of entertaining Foreigners. They were both intrusted to conduct to _Piedmont_ the Princess of _Sultzbach_ first Wife to _Charles_ Prince of _Piedmont_[140], and discharged their Employments in such a manner that they had the general Approbation of the _Sardinian_ Court.
The Barons of _Hildesheim_ and _Beveren_ are both Ministers of State. The former acquired a very great Reputation in the Negotiations that were carry'd on at _Heidelberg_ in 1719, for the Church of the _Calvinists_ which the Elector had a mind shou'd be Catholic. The second has been Envoy to the King of _Great Britain_. They are both to be valued for their Merit, live very honourably, and make Foreigners welcome.
I could tell you of many other Persons of Birth and Merit employ'd at this Court, but really my Letter would be too tedious. Nevertheless I cannot omit the mention of the Baron _d'Obsten_, whom you saw at _Breslau_, after he had quitted the Service of the _Czar_. He is settled here, but has no Character. He and all his Family are become of our Communion. He has a considerable Pension from the Elector, and is generally very well esteem'd. His Son, who is a Captain, is a young Gentleman of Merit, and his Daughters are young Ladies highly to be esteem'd for their good Behaviour and Politeness.
The Count _de Nassau-Weilbourg_ lives here also. His Birth would engage me to give you an Account of him tho' I were not induc'd to it by the Consideration of his Merit. This Nobleman has an infinite share of it; he is generous, magnificent, genteel, and civil, knowing what Family he is descended from; but knowing it for no other reason than to discharge all the Obligations of it. He is the Ornament of this Court, tho' he is not in the Service of the Elector. His Father was Velt-Marshal, and Commander in Chief of the _Palatine_ Troops during the Reign of the late Elector _John William_. The Count I am speaking of was Envoy Extraordinary from the Elector to the Court of _France_ during the Minority of _Lewis_ XV. He then went often to the Royal Palace to pay his court to the Regent's Mother, and there it was that I knew him; for that Lady and the whole Court of France had a very great Value for him. That Princess speaking of him one day to me, said she was very glad that he was a Count of _Nassau_; for indeed, said she, he deserves to bear a great Name[141].
There are amiable People here of both Sexes who are very sociable, so that 'tis a Stranger's own fault if he misses of Amusement here; for such are generally treated very civilly. As for my own part, I have received so many Courtesies from the Elector, and so many Favours from his Court that I shall for ever acknowledge them.
The Nobility maintain a Company of _French_ Comedians who act three times a Week upon a very little Theatre, but both the Townsmen and Foreigners pay. Tho' this Company, of which the Count _de la Marck_ has the Direction is not the best, yet 'tis a pleasure to go to it for the sake of seeing Company. In the time of the late Princess there were a thousand Pleasures which there are not now, so that her Death is still lamented.
The Elector's Revenues are reckon'd at two Millions of Crowns. You may rate them more or less, 'tis no matter; for my own part, I affirm nothing, being not willing to imitate the Marquis _de Breton-Villiers_, who in his Memoirs of the Regency values the Revenues of all the Princes of the Universe with as much assurance as if he had been Superintendant of every one's Finances. The Elector has about 7 or 8000 Soldiers, exclusive of his Guards. His best Places are _Manheim_, _Juliers_, and _Dusseldorp_. The three Religions tolerated in the Empire have Churches here, and the _Jews_ a large Synagogue. They are very numerous at this Place, and two thirds of the Houses belong to them, as being either built by them, or mortgag'd to 'em. Some of them are very rich, and drive a great Trade with the _Jews_ at _Meiz_, _Frankfort_ and _Amsterdam_. 'Tis certain that they do a great injury to the Christian Merchants, and that they are not honester here than elsewhere.
Don't write to me, if you please, before I have sent you my Direction, because I know not whether I shall stay long enough at _Frankfort_, to which some Affairs call me, to receive your Letters.
Just now we hear of the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. As I never saw a Conclave, and am in the Humour of Travelling, I have an inclination to take a tour to _Rome_. I shall not resolve on it till I come to _Frankfort_. Which way soever I go you shall be inform'd, and I will not fail to desire your Commands. Mean time I am always very sincerely, _&c._