LETTER XV.
_SIR_, _Stutgard, Jan. 14, 1730._
There is nothing remarkable between _Munich_ and _Augsbourg_ except it be the fine Abbey of FURSTENFELDT, which is in possession of the _Bernardin_ Fryars. It was founded by _Lewis the Severe_ Duke of _Bavaria_ to attone for his Wickedness in putting _Joan_ of _Brabant_ his Wife unjustly to death. The History of _Bavaria_ relates the Fact thus: _Joan_ was a very beautiful Princess. Her Husband who was doatingly fond of her being obliged to take a Journey, put her under the Guard of one of his Aunts. While he was gone _Joan_ wrote frequently to her Husband, and sometimes to his Prime Minister and Favourite. One day she put her Letters into the hands of a Domestic, charging him to deliver them as they were directed; but the Man made a Mistake, and gave the Letter which was for the Duke to his Favourite, and that which was for the Minister to the Duke. _Lewis_ thought that his Wife's Style was too obliging to a Subject, and was even mad with Jealousy. He first kill'd his Favourite, and then taking horse posted to _Donawert_ where his Wife was. He came to the Castle in the Night-time, murder'd the Porter with his own hand, put his Aunt and all with whom he had left his Wife in charge to Death; and then like another _Herod_, caused the unfortunate _Joan_ to be beheaded. The Night after this barbarous Action, the Heirs of _Lewis_'s Head turn'd gray, tho' he was but twenty-eight Years old; which Accident made him sensible of his Guilt and of the Innocence of his Wife. As his Barbarity was great, so was his Repentance. He went on foot to _Rome_ to beg the Pope's Absolution for his Sins, and obtain'd it on condition that he wou'd cause a Church to be built, and found a Monastery in his Dominions. _Lewis_ returning from _Rome_ founded the Abbey at _Furstenfeldt_. The first Establishment was only for eight Fryars; but the Piety of the Princes of _Bavaria_ having wrought upon them to bestow their Favours upon this House, it now maintains thirty Fryars and an Abbot, whom the Monks have the Prerogative to chuse out of their own Body. These good Fathers are actually erecting a very stately Church, and they enjoy all the Conveniences of Life.
The Country between _Munich_ and _Augsbourg_ is level and intermix'd with Woods and Plains. AUGSBOURG which is a Bishop's See, and an Imperial City, is the Capital of _Swabia_, and one of the biggest and handsomest Towns in _Germany_. A small Branch of the _Leck_ passes thro' it, and supplies it with plenty of Water. The Streets of _Augsbourg_ are broad, strait and lightsome; the Houses well built, and many of 'em full of Paintings. The Inhabitants look upon _Augustus_ to be the Founder of their City. 'Tis true that Emperor sent a Colony thither, but the Town was founded before. It is not said what Name it went by before the Name of _Augusta Vindelicorum_ was given it to distinguish it from the other Towns that bore the Name of _Augusta_. The clearing up of this difficulty is what I shall leave to the Antiquarians, and confine my self to the Transactions at _Augsbourg_ for about two hundred Years past. What will render this City for ever famous is the Confession of Faith which the Protestant Princes presented here to the Emperor _Charles_ V. in the year 1530. Tho' the Protestants were at that time very powerful in _Augsbourg_ they cou'd not keep their ground, for they were drove out by the _Bavarians_; but _Gustavus Adolphus_ restored them in 1632, since which time they have kept their Footing there, and share the Government with the Roman Catholics. In 1687, the Emperor, _Spain_, the United Provinces, and the Electors of _Saxony_, _Brandenbourg_, and the Palatinate concluded that famous League at _Augsbourg_ against _Lewis_ XIV. who was beginning to inforce the Claim of the Duchess of _Orleans_ his Sister-in-law to the Succession of the Elector Palatine _Charles-Lewis_, who was that Princess's Brother. In 1690, _Joseph_ Archduke of _Austria_ King of _Hungary_, the eldest Son of the Emperor _Leopold_, was consecrated and crown'd King of the _Romans_ at _Augsbourg_, at which Ceremony the Emperor, the Empress, the Electors of _Mentz_, _Cologn_, _Triers_, _Bavaria_, and the Palatinate were personally present.
In 1703, the Elector _Maximilian_ of _Bavaria_, made himself Master of _Augsbourg_ in one Week's time. This City had demanded and obtained a Neutrality, but having afterwards received an Imperial Garrison the Elector made use of that Pretence to lay Siege to it. He caused the Fortifications to be demolish'd, foreseeing, no doubt, that he should not be able to keep the Place. _Augsbourg_ was set free again by the Battle of _Hochstet_, and still enjoys its Freedom under its own Magistrates, the Bishop having no Authority in the City as to Temporals. The present Bishop is of the Family of _Neubourg_, and Brother to the Elector Palatine. This Prince has the same Goodness of Temper which is so natural to all his Family. As his Bishoprick is not one of the most considerable in _Germany_, so his Court is none of the biggest, but his Houshold is well regulated, and every thing conducted in it with Order and Splendor.
The Chapter of the Cathedral consists of Persons of Quality who are oblig'd to make Proof of their Nobility. The Canons have the Prerogative of chusing their Bishop, who like all the Prelates of _Germany_ is a Sovereign Prince. He dwells at _Augsbourg_, tho' he ought to reside at _Dillingen_. The Episcopal Palace is old, and not very commodious: It joins to the Cathedral, which is a _Gothic_ gloomy unwieldy Fabric, but its Ornaments are very rich.
The most considerable Building is the Town-house, a very substantial Pile built all of Freestone except the Portico, which is of Marble. The Rooms are very fine, and the great Hall especially is to the last degree magnificent. The Walls are cover'd with Painting, being such Emblems and Devices as have relation to the Government. Nothing can be more beautiful than the Cieling which consists all of Compartments whose Frames are carv'd and gilt in an extraordinary manner, the whole enrich'd with Pictures and other Ornaments perfectly well dispos'd.
Before the Town-house there's a very stately Fountain, where, among other fine Figures of Brass, the Statue of _Augustus_ which is represented in a most noble Attitude is highly esteem'd.
The City of _Augsbourg_ is in my Opinion something like _Antwerp_ with regard to the Spaciousness of the Streets and the Substantialness of its Buildings; and formerly when the _Venetians_ were Masters of all the Commerce, it resembled it in Trade; for _Augsbourg_ was then the Staple for Merchandize, which was from thence transported to a great part of _Europe_. But since _London_ and _Amsterdam_ are become the Warehouses of the whole World, and the Commerce of _Venice_ decays, the greatest Trade of _Augsbourg_ consists in Goldsmith's Wares, with which this City furnishes _Germany_, _Poland_, and in general almost all the North. These Wares are much cheaper here than elsewhere, and when the Patterns are furnish'd People are well serv'd. Notwithstanding the Decay of its Commerce there are several very rich Families; but whether any can do what _Fugger_ did to the Emperor _Charles_ V. is a Question. That Monarch passing thro' _Augsbourg_ lodg'd at _Fugger_'s House, who entertain'd him like an Emperor. The Fewel he burnt in every Chimney was Cedar, and after the Repast, which was extraordinary sumptuous, _Fugger_ took a Bond for a very considerable Sum which the Emperor ow'd him, and threw it into the Fire.
The Nobility assemble commonly every Evening at the _Three Kings_ Inn where I quarter. There's a very fine Hall well lighted, where they game, club for a Supper, and after Supper dance. Be not scandaliz'd that the Nobility have their Assembly at an Inn, it being one of the best Houses in _Germany_ and the most superb Inn in _Europe_. There's very good Attendance. I have supp'd at it twice, and one cannot be better accommodated in any House whatsoever.
From _Augsbourg_ I came to ULM another Imperial City. Tho' all the Country is even, yet 'tis very tiresome to Travellers because of the Pavement of the Causeys; but Thanks to the Snow which has levell'd the Ways, I have not been much incommoded; tho' on the other hand I had like to have been lost in the Snow, such a quantity of it having fallen for two Days that one could not distinguish the Roads. I found my self at a Post-Stage where my Guide, tho' he was a Man that had grown grey in the Business of Postilion upon the same Road, did not know the Way. I was in danger every Moment of tumbling into some Ditch, when just as we entered a certain Valley my Postilion sounded a Horn to give notice to any Carriages or Horses that might happen to meet us to make way, when a Voice from the Hollow call'd out to the Postilion, _Who's that? Stephen? Oh!_ cry'd the Postilion, _Is it you, Christopher? God be thank'd that I met with you_! Then turning towards me, he said with an Air of Satisfaction, _Now you are out of all Danger, for here's a blind Man that will conduct us to the Place we are going to_. I thought the Droll jok'd with me, but we had not gone many Yards farther before I really saw a poor Wretch who could not see, yet offer'd to be my Guide, and promis'd he wou'd conduct me very well. I abandon'd my self to him, and he walk'd so fast before my Chaise that the Horses follow'd him in a gentle Trot till we came safe to the Stage. There he told me that 'twas fifteen Years ago that he lost his Sight by the breaking of an Imposthume in his Eyes, after having suffer'd such horrible Pains for two Months that he bless'd himself for the Loss of his Sight; so that when I ask'd him if he was not very much concern'd at it, he said that at first it made him melancholy for some time, but that he always comforted himself by the Remembrance of the Torture he had undergone in the Loss of his Sight, and that he thought it were much better to be blind and to have his Health than to see, and suffer the Pains that he had endur'd; but that now he was so us'd to his Condition it gave him no Concern. Indeed, when I ask'd him, if he should not be very glad to recover his Sight? he said, Yes, if it were possible; but that if he must undergo the same Pains to recover it as he had felt in the Loss of it, he had rather by a thousand times continue blind. When I told him of my Surprize that he should find out the Way better than those who see, he told me that since he had been blind he came regularly on Sundays and Saints Days to the Place where we were to hear Mass, and that therefore the Road was become very familiar to him. He added, that he sometimes went alone to beg three or four Leagues from his Village, which was a quarter of a League from the hollow Way where I met with him. I sent the Man away, after giving him some Relief; and could not but admire the divine Providence, which tho' it had afflicted the poor Wretch with what to me seems more terrible than Death, gave him Strength to bear his Misfortune with Patience.
The City of _Ulm_ is not above half as big as _Augsbourg_, but is much better fortify'd. The _Danube_ which washes its Walls, becomes navigable at this Place, and a Boat goes from hence every Week for _Vienna_, which is a great Ease to People who are not in a Condition to lay out much Money; for it costs but a _Creutzer_, which is one Penny a _German_ Mile. Tho' the City of _Ulm_ maintains a very numerous Garison, and is very well fortify'd, and furnished with a good Arsenal, the Elector _Maximilian_ of _Bavaria_ took it by Surprize in 1702, it being a Place necessary for him to secure his Dominions on that side, and to facilitate the Passage of the _French_ Troops that were to join his Army. General _Thungen_ robb'd him of this Conquest the 10th of _Sept._ 1704, after about a Week's Siege.
Then it was that _Ulm_ became again subject to its Magistrates who are all _Lutherans_. The Catholics cannot enjoy Offices, but have several Churches. This City drives a great Trade in Linnen, but few of the Gentry live here except the Patricians who are not more sociable than those of _Nuremberg_ and _Augsbourg_. The Burghers and the Women in particular go dress'd like those at _Augsbourg_. To see them go to and come from Church is next kin to seeing a Masquerade, and 'tis certainly one of the most diverting Sights in this City, where really I did not give my self time to be tired, for I set out again the very next Day after I came, and arrived in this Town, where I have now rested my self a couple of Days.
STUTGARD lies in the middle of a Valley surrounded with Vineyards. 'Tis pretty large, has Streets broad and strait, but the Houses are of Timber. 'Tis the Capital of the Duchy of _Wirtemberg_, and was formerly the Residence of the Sovereigns of the Country; but _Eberhard-Lewis_ the present Duke of _Wirtemberg_ established his Seat some Years ago at[116] _Ludwigsbourg_, a new City and a new Palace of his own building.
The Duke's Castle is an old Structure of Freestone, compos'd of four Piles of Building, flank'd at each Angle by a Tower. The Walls of it are wash'd by Ditches which give it the disagreeable Air of a Prison. The Duchess who is the Duke's Wife, and Sister to the Margrave of _Baden-Dourlach_, has an Apartment in this Palace. You know that this Princess and her Husband don't live well together. The Prince[117] about twenty Years ago preferr'd a Mistress to her[118], who certainly has neither the Beauty, nor the Merit of the Duchess. The Princess is remarkably patient under the Indifference of a Husband, and the Contempt of the most haughty Rival that ever was. The frequent Visits paid her by her only Son are all the Comfort she has. The Court neglects her, no body dares to go near her, and whoever pays the Duchess the Respects that are naturally due to her, is sure to incur the merciless Hatred of the Mistress. I may be able perhaps to give you a farther Account of this Princess and her Rival when I have been at _Ludwigsbourg_, whither I propose to go to-morrow, and where I hope for a Line from you.
_I am_, &c.