Part 28

Ferdinand, Don, and the Portuguese at Ceuta, 25

Ferdinand and Isabella, reception of Columbus at Barcelona, 69, 83

Ferdinand IV., 317

Ferrat, Cape, 141

Fiescho, Count, 177

Filfla, 271

Flower Market, at Marseilles, 102; at Barcelona, 63

Follonica, 209

Folquet, 121

Formica, 209

Fortifications of Gibraltar, 16; of Genoa, 164; of Cannes, 152; Ventimiglia, 157

Fortuny, his paintings at Barcelona, 66, 80

Fossa Claudia, 230

France, and the siege of Gibraltar, 16; captures Genoa, 164; and Barcelona, 84

Fraser, General, and the English expedition to Egypt of 1807, 256

Frejus, Gulf of, 147

Funeral at Venice, A, 229

Funerals at Barcelona, 75

G

Galliera, Duchess of, and the Palazzo Rosso, Genoa, 172

Garibaldi, Birthplace of, 126; crossing Calabria, 298; landing at Marsala, 318

Genoa, once a rival of Venice, 160; its detractors, 161; the beauty of its women, 162; history, 163, 164; old and new towns, 166; position, and view from the slopes, 166; mediæval churches, narrowness of streets, and the _palazza_, 168; the Via Nuova, 170; Fergusson on the architecture of, 171; the Palazzo Ducale, and the Statue of Hercules, 172, 173; incidents in the life of Doria, 176; monument to Columbus, 177; the "old dogana," 179; the Exchange, trade in coral, precious metals, and filigree work, 180; the cathedral, 180; reputed origin of, 182; church of L'Annunziata, and the Campo Santo, 182; the environs, 184; meeting-place of the Rivieras, 185; railway to Spezzia, and places on the coast, 187

George I., and Gibraltar, 22

Giardini, 298

Gibel Mo-osa, Moorish name of Ceuta, 26

Gibraltar, 4; Robert Browning's reference to, 6; resemblance to a lion, 7; landing at, 8; variety of nationalities at, 10; picturesqueness, 10; population, 11; strict military regulations, and chief objects of interest, 12, 13; Moorish Castle, 15; fortifications, 16; siege of, 16-19; capitulation to the Prince of Hesse, 22; the "key of the Mediterranean," 21

Girgenti, "City of Temples," monuments of Pagan worship, and Pindar's designation, 307; Temple of Concord, 309; Temple of Hercules, ravages of earthquakes, and Shelley's allusion in "Ozymandias," 311, 312

Golfe de la Napoule, 148

Gondolas of Venice, 222

Gothard, St., 228

Gough, Colonel, his defeat of Marshal Victor at Tarifa, 4

Government House at Gibraltar, 23

Gozo, 270, 272, 273

Granada, 17, 59

Greeks, at Gibraltar, 10; their trade at Marseilles, 106, 109, 110

Grimaldi, The, 179

Gros, Mont, 139

Grosseto, 209

Grotto, at Malta and St. Paul, 293; of Sta. Rosalia, 317; Di Posilipo, 335; at Capri, 343

Guelphs, The, and Genoa, 163

Guzman, Alonzo Perez de, and his act of defiance at Tarifa, 4

Gzeier, 271

H

Hamilcar Barca, and Pellegrino, 317

Hamrun, 291

Harbor of Marseilles, 106

Haroun al Rashid, reputed birthplace, 256

Hepaticas, Valley of, 139

"Hercules, Pillars of," 1, 2, 5, 17

Hercules and Temple at Girgenti, 311; Temple at Selinunto, 319

Hesse, Prince of, and the acquisition of Gibraltar, 22

Hicks, Captain, and the siege of Gibraltar, 22

Hieroglyphics, Egyptian, at Rosetta, 257

Hiram, and Malaga, 46

Homeric era, "Pillars of Hercules" in the, 2

Honorat, St., 149

Hougoumont, Château of, 15

Hyères, 96, 146

Hypatia at Alexandria, 236

I

Iberian race of Genoa, 162

Imtarfa, 292

Ischia, 326

Islands of the Blest, 2

Israfel, The Angel, and a belief of the Moslems, 249

Ivory on houses in Tangier, 5

J

Jews, at Gibraltar, 10

John of Portugal, King, takes Ceuta from the Moors, 25

Joseph of Arimathea, and the _sacro catino_ at Genoa, 181

Jumper, Captain, and the siege of Gibraltar, 20

Jupiter, Temple of, at Ortygia, 304

K

Keats, Grave of, 194

L

La Haye, Farmhouse of, 15

La Mortola, Point, 157

_Laguna Morta_, The, at Venice, 230

Landslip at Roquebrune, 156

Lane-Poole, Mr. Stanley, and the Nile, 259

Las Palmas, 296

Lazarus, Legend respecting, at Marseilles, 116

Leghorn, its dullness, 163; history, and canals, 201; streets, harbor, trade, statue of Ferdinand, and burial-place of, Smollett, 202

Lentini, 302

Leo, The constellation, and Berenice's locks, 252

Lepanto, Battle of, 221

Lerici, and Shelley's last days, 192

Lérins, Vincent de, at St. Honorat, 149

Lesseps, M. de, and the Suez Canal, 264

Lia, 291

Library, Garrison, at Gibraltar, 13; at Alexandria, 247

Lighthouse of Ta Giurdan, 272

Liguria, noted for the cunning of its people, 162

Ligurian Sea, 146

Limpia, Harbor and village of, 127

Lion of St. Mark at Venice, 226

Lisbon, 21

Louis XIV., 97; and the storming of Barcelona, 83

Luna, Remains of, 194

Lyons, Climate of, 90

M

Macgregor, Mr. John (Rob Roy), and the ruins of Tanis, 263

Magnan, The, 139

Malaga, 95; rapid development, 43; climate, general appearance, and convenient position for excursions, 44; the Alpujarras, 44; Phoenician origin, 46; history, 48; water supply, 48; the vineyards, 50; sugar industry, 51; Castle, Grecian Temple, and the Alcazaba, 51; attractiveness of the women, 54; harbor, 53; Almeria, 55; Cape de Gatt, 57; the Sierra Tejada, the Sierra Nevada, 58; Trevelez and Alhendin, 59; Lanjaron, the Muley Hacen, and the Picacho, 60

Malamocco, 230

Malta, 267; "England's eye in the Mediterranean," 267; formerly a peninsula of Africa, and its fertility, 268; Gozo, Comino, and Cominetto, and the _Fungus Melitensis_, 270; the Gozitans, 272

Man with the Iron Mask, 149

Maremma, The, 209

Marengo, Battle of, 165

Marfa, 274

Marguerite, Ste., 145

Mariette Bey and the ruins of Tanis, 263, 264

Mark, St., at Alexandria, 236; reputed place of burial, 250; Lion at Venice, 224

Marriages of Greeks at Marseilles, 107

Marsala, 318

Marseilles; its Greek origin, and importance as the capital of the Mediterranean, 94; history, 96, 109; appearance from the sea, 97; the Old Port and the Cannebière, 98, 99; the Bourse, promenades, and statues of Pytheas and Euthymenes, 100; flower market and the Prado, 102; the Corniche road and _bouillabaisse_, 103, 104; Public Garden, Château d'If, and the quays, 105; harbors, Greek merchants, and marriage customs, 106-108; Greek type in the physique of the people, 109; hotels, cholera, plague, and the _mistral_, 112, 113; Palais des Arts and the Church of St. Victor, 115, 116; Church of Notre Dame de la Garde, 117; Chain of Estaques, fortress, and people, 119; birthplace of distinguished men, 121; its proud position, 123

Martin, Cap, 156

Mary, The Virgin, image at St. Victor's, Marseilles, 119

Mascaron, 122

Massa, Quarries and palace at, 197

Massena, General, at Genoa, 165

Mediterranean, The deep interest connected with the cities and ruins on the shores of the, 2; Tarifa, 3, 4; Tangier, 4-6; Gibraltar, 6-18; Algeciras, San Roque, and Estepona, 23; Ceuta, 25, 26; Marseilles, 94-123; Genoa, 160-191; Barcelona, 61-93; Alexandria, 234-264; Nice, 124-144; Malta, 267-294; Malaga, 42-60; Algiers, 28-41; Tuscan Coast, 192-218; Sicily, 295-324; Naples, 325-350; Venice, 219-233; The Riviera, 145-159

Megara, Bay of, 303

Mentone, 103; mountain paths, 125, 131; walks and drives at, 157, 158

Menzaleh, Lake, 262, 263

Mery, 122

Messina, route from Naples, 295; general appearance, trade, cathedral, university, etc., 297

Minden, 19

Mirabeau imprisoned at Château d'If, 105

Misada, 291

_Mistral_, The, 112; at Nice, 131

Mole at Gibraltar, 9, 14, 15, 20

Monaco, description of, 153, 155

Monreale, Cathedral and Abbey of, 316

Monte Carlo, 131; its beauty, 155

Monte-Cristo and Château d'If, 105

Montpellier, 90

Monuments to Elliot and Wellington at Gibraltar, 13

Moorish Castle at Gibraltar, 15

Moors in Gibraltar, 10; Ceuta taken from the, 25; in Spain, 47

Mosque of the Djama-el-Kebir at Tangier, 6; at Algiers, 31

Mosques of Alexandria, 250

Murano, 231

Musta, 292

Mustapha Pacha, 251

N

Naples, its population and trade, 95; beauty of position, and charming environs, 325; sordid surroundings of the port, 327; streets, trades, and _al fresco_ toilettes, 328; Piazza degli Orefici, and cruelty to animals, 329, 330; snails, goats, water sellers, and chapel of St. Januarius, 330; churches of Sta. Chiara, S. Domenico Maggiore, and S. Lorenzo, 332; antiquities of National Museum, Capri, Villa Nazionale, and Grotto di Posilipo, 333; "Corniche" of Posilipo, and Roman ruins, 335; Pozzuoli, 335; Monte Nuovo and Avernus, 337; environs of Baiæ and Cumæ, and fascination of Capri, 339; the drive to Castellamare, 345; Sorrento, 346; Amalfi, 347; Salerno, 349

Napoleon, Wars of, and Tarifa, 4; and Genoa, 165, 181; seizure of Barcelona, 83; defeat at Alexandria, 251, 255; and a project for a Suez Canal, 264; at Malta, 287; confinement at Elba, and escape, 203-206; at Venice, 222

Napoleon III., acquires Nice, 129

Negroes at Gibraltar, 10

Nelson, feasted at the Moorish Castle, Gibraltar, 16; victory at Aboukir Bay, 253, 254; at Capraja, 207

Nervi, 186

Nevada, Sierra, 58, 59

Nicæa, 126, 127

Nice, 21, 96, 102; the Queen of the Riviera, 124; mountains, and its detractors, 125; three distinct towns--Greek, Italian, and French, 126; harbor and village of Limpia, and its early history, 127; Castle Hill, 128; Raüba Capeu, and the _mistral_, 131; Italian division and the Promenade du Midi, 132; cathedral of St. Réparate, the modern town, and the Promenade des Anglais, 133; beauty of the private gardens, carnival and battle of flowers, 134, 135; the Jardin Public, quays on the Paillon bank and casino, 137; theatre, Préfecture, flower market, the Ponchettes, the Place Masséna, the Boulevards Victor Hugo and Dubouchage, Cimiez and Carabacel, 138; suburbs, 139; the road to Monte Carlo, and Monaco, 141; Villefranche, and the infinite charms of, 141; heights of Mont Alban, and the Magnan valley, 143; "gloriously beautiful," 144

Nicholas Alexandrowitch, The Czarewitch, death at Nice, 138

Nile, The, alluvial deposit, 237; battle of the, 253; fertilizing properties, 260

Nimes, 110

Notabile, antiquity and manufactures, 290; cathedral and churches, 292

Nuovo, Monte, 337

O

"Oceanus River," designation of the Atlantic in Homeric times, 2

Octavius, defeat of Antony at Mustapha Pacha, 251

Odessa, 123

O'Hara's Folly, tower at Gibraltar, 17

Orange, 110

Oranges, at Spezzia, 189

Orbitello, Etruscan relics at, 210

Ortygia, Island of, 303; temple of Jupiter, and the Latonia, 304; Greek Theatre, 305

Ostia, 216, 217

Ostrogoths, The, and Marseilles, 109

P

Pæstum, Temples of, 349, 350

Paillon, The, 139

Paintings in the Palais des Arts, Marseilles, 115

_Palazzi_, The, of Genoa and Venice, 168

Palermo, 312; first impressions disappointing, and the imposing aspect of the streets, 312; the Palazzo Reale, 315; the Cappella Palatina, church of Martorana, and the Cathedral, 316; observatory, Monreale, 316; museum, and the rocks of Pellegrino, etc., 321, 322; the Piazza Marina, 322; its beauty at sunset, 323

Pallanza, 147

Pammilus of Megara, and the founding of Selinus, 319

Pastoret, 122

Patrick, St., at St. Honorat, 150

Paul, St., wrecked at Gzeier, 271; popularity at Malta, 293

Peak of Teneriffe, and the rock at Ceuta, 27

Pegli, 186

Pellegrino, Monte, 316, 317

Pellew, Admiral, and the destruction of the pirate fleet, 215

Pelusium, ruins of, 263

Perini del Vaga, his frescoes at Genoa, 175

Petrarch, 333

Pharos of Tarifa, The, 3

Philip V., 22; bombards Barcelona, 83

Phocæa, 94

Phoenicians, their designation of Ceuta, 26; at Marseilles, 95; and Malaga, 46

Pianosa, 206; historical associations, 206

Pietra Santa, 197

Pietro Negro, 271

"Pillars of Hercules," 1; in Homeric times, 2, 5, 24, 96

Pindar and his designation of Agrigentum, 308

Piombino, 207

Pirates of Barbary, 97

Pisa, rival of Genoa, 163; Cathedral, Campo Santo, baptistry, and leaning tower of, 198, 199

Plague, The, at Marseilles, 112, 113; at Palermo, 317

Pliny, 247

Polyphemus and Aci Reale, 198

Pompey's Pillar, 247

Pons, St., 139

Populonia, 207; defeat of Lars Porsenna of Clusium, and possession by the Etruscans, 208

Port Said, 258; coaling station, 262

Porto (Tuscany), 216, 217

Portugal, King John takes Ceuta from the Moors, 25

Pozzuoli, Bay of, 326, 334, 335; town of, 335; allusion of Alexandre Dumas, 338

Prim, Monument to, at Barcelona, 69

Proserpine, Temple of, at Imtarfa, 292

Ptolemy Philadelphus and the Temple of Arsenoe, 252

Punta de Africa, The, the African Pillar of Hercules, 24

Pyrgos, 214

Pytheas, 97; statue at Marseilles, 100

Q

Quarry of the Cappucini, 305

R

Rabato, 272

Rameses, and Pelusium, 263

Ramleh, 251

Rapallo, Bay of, 186

Raphael, 175

Raphael, St., 146

Raymond des Tours, 121

Recco, 186

Revolution, French, and Venice, 222

Riva, 147

Riviera, The, general aspect, 145; origin of name, 146; extent, and climate, 147; the Estérel, Agay, Golfe de la Napoule, 148; Ste. Marguerite, and St. Honorat, 149; Cannes, 150-154; Monaco, 153; Monte Carlo, 155; Mentone, 155, 158; Roquebrune, 156, 157; Bordighera, and San Remo, 158; Alassio and Savona, 159

Riviera di Levante, 146, 185

Riviera di Ponento, 146, 185

Rodney, Lord, and the siege of Gibraltar, 18

Roger II., 314

Rogers, Samuel, on Andrea Doria, 173

Romans, The, at Marseilles, 97, 110; at Genoa, 162; at Nicæa, 128; at Malaga, 46

Ronda, Mountains of, 17

Rooke, Sir George, and the siege of Gibraltar, 21

Roquebrune, 156; quaint story connected with, 156

Rose, The Chevalier, and the plague of Marseilles, 113

Roses of the Riviera, 145

Rosetta, 253; reputed birthplace of Haroun Al Rashid, 256; English expedition of 1807, 256; archælogical discoveries, 258

Rosia Bay, Gibraltar, 14, 20, 23

Rostang, 121

Rusellæ, 211

Ruskin, Professor, on St. Mark's, Venice, 223, 224

S

_Sacro catino_, The, at Genoa, 181

Sahel Mountains, The, 30

Sais, 263

Salerno, temples at, 349

Salles, De, 121

Salmun, 293

Salvian, at St. Honorat, 150

San Remo, 131, 158, 159

San Roque, 23

San Salvador, 291

Santa Croce, Cape, 303

Santa Marinella, 214

Santa Severa, 214

Saracens, at Marseilles, 109; at Genoa, 163; at Civita Vecchia, 212

Sarcophagus of Ashmunazar, King of Sidon, at Girgenti, 308

Savona, 159

Savoy, Counts of, and Nice, 129

Scoglio Marfo, 271

Scylla and Charybdis, 295

Sebta, or Septem, derivation of "Ceuta," 25

Segesta, 319; temples at, 320

Selinunto, 319; ancient temples at, 320

Senglea, 289

Serapeum, The, at Alexandria, 248

Serapis, Temple of, 236

Seravezza, Marble quarries at, and Michael Angelo, 197

Serpentine at Spezzia, 188

Shakespeare, allusion to the Nile, 260

Sheba, Queen of, and the _sacro catino_ in the cathedral of Genoa, 181

Shelley, last days at Lerici, and death, 192, 193

Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, and the siege of Gibraltar, 21

Sicily, appearance from the sea, 295; Messina, 296, 297; Taormina, 297, 298; Etna, and Aci Reale, 299, 300; Ortygia, 303; Syracuse, 303; Girgenti, 307; Palermo, 312-318; San Guiliane, 318; Selinunto, 318; Monte Pellegrino, 322

Siege of Gibraltar, 17-20

Sierra of the Snows, The, 17

Simos and Protis, supposed founders of Marseilles, 94

Smollett, Tobias, Grave of, 202

Snails as an article of diet, 330

Soldiers at Gibraltar, 11

Sorrento, 130, 345; and Tasso, 346

Sovana, 211

Spain, Rock of Calpe, 2; landing of first Berber Sheikh, 3; antiquity of the Moorish Castle, Gibraltar, 15; driven from Gibraltar, 19; acquires Ceuta, 25; and Columbus, 178; the most Catholic country in the world, 74; great number of holidays, 87; Caballero, lady novelist, 88; piquancy of the women, 91; unsettled condition of, 92

Spanish, The, at Gibraltar, 11

Spanish Succession, War of the, 22

Spezzia, Scenery around, 160; arsenal of, 168; exquisite scenery and remarkable situation, 187; oranges at, 189; villages around, 190; harbor and men-of-war, 191; Bay of, 192

Stanfield's painting of Vico, 346

Statuary, English, its inferior character, 13

Stone, Egyptian, with inscription, at Rosetta, 257

Strabo, 247

Stromboli, 317

Suez Canal, 96, 123; construction by M. de Lesseps, a dream realized, 264

Syracuse, interest and beauty of, 303

T

Taggia, 158

Talamone, 211

Tangier, Bay of, 4; distant view and features of the town of, 5; expedition of Edward, son of King John of Portugal, against, 25

Tanis, Ruins of (Zoan of the Old Testament), 263

Taormina, 297; elevation of, 298; beautiful prospect and ruins of Greek theater, 299

Tarascon, 96

Tarif Ibn Malek, first Berber sheikh who landed in Spain, 3

Tarifa, The Pharos of, 3; the arms, town, and history of, 4

Tarquinii, Ruins of, 212

Tasso and Sorrento, 346

Tejada, Sierra, 58

Teneriffe, 296

Termini, 312

_Terral_, The, of Malaga, 43

Tête de Chien, 153

Thackeray and _bouillabaisse_, 104

Theodore, St., statue at Venice, 226

Thiers, M., 122

Tiber, The, 215

Tintoret, 175

Titian, 175

Torcello, the ancient Altinum, 231

Torre dell' Annunziata, Manufacture of macaroni at, 345

Trajan, founder of Civita Vecchia, 216

Tramontana, The, of the Riviera, 43

Trapani, 318

Trevelez, 59

Trinacria, 318

Turbia, The, 103

Turks, at Gibraltar, 10

Tuscan coast (_see_ Lerici, Sarzana, Carrara, Pisa, Leghorn, Elba, Civita Vecchia, etc.).

U

University of Barcelona, 80; of Velletta, 286; of Messina, 297

Urban V., Pope, and the church of St. Victor, Marseilles, 116

V

Valletta, 267; fortress, buildings, population, and abundance of labor, 274, 275; the Port, 275; military station, and peculiar construction, 276; Strada Reale, 278; the people, and public buildings, 280; the Knights, and various sieges, 284; military hospital, 286; the University and the prison, 286; visit of Bonaparte, and the Strada Mezzodi, 287; suburbs, 289; Notabile and Hamrun, 290; popularity of St. Paul, 293; cathedrals, 293, 294

Vanderdussen, Rear-Admiral, and the siege of Gibraltar, 22

Vegetation at Marseilles, 104

Veii, 212

Venice, 95, 122; contrasted with Genoa, 160; rival of Genoa, 163; the _palazzi_ of, 168; a town unequalled in Europe, and general aspect, 219; history, 221; formation and shape, 222; view of San Marco from the Piazza, 223-226; date of erection, restoration, and interior of St. Mark's, 225; view from the Molo, and the Grand Canal, 226, 227; a funeral, 229; islands sheltering it from the sea, 230-232

Ventimiglia, Fortifications of, 157

Venus, Temple of, shrine at Eryx, 318

Venus Zephyrites, 252

Vesuvius, 161, 326

Viareggio, Recovery of Shelley's body at, 193, 198

Vico, 346

Victor, Marshal, dispersal of his army by Colonel Gough at Tarifa, 4

Villa Franca, 21; treaty of, 129; picturesqueness of, 141

Virgil, reference to the cunning of Ligurians, 161; the Elysian Fields, 338

Visigoths, The, 109

Vittoriosa, 289

Vulcano, 317

W

Wade, Marshal, 13

War of the Spanish Succession, 22

Wauchope, General, at Rosetta, 256

Wellington, Monument at Gibraltar to, 13

Whittaker, Captain, and the siege of Gibraltar, 22

Women, of Genoa, 162; restrictions at the Cathedral of Genoa against, 181; of Spain, 92; of Nice, 129; their attractiveness at Malaga, 54; of Naples, 328; of Capri, 342

X

Xerxes, 94

Y

Young, Dr., and the Egyptian stone at Rosetta, 258

Z

Zerka, 273

FOOTNOTES:

[1] History of Modern Architecture.

[2] Dennis: "Cities of Etruria."

[3] Dennis: "Cities of Etruria," I., p. xxxii.

[4] Ruskin: "Stones of Venice."

[5] Alison's "History of Europe."

[6] Sir Theodore Martin.

[7] In Homeric times, as is shown by the Odyssey, the Nile was called [Greek: Aignptos], a name which was afterwards transferred to the country.