Part 9

The façade shown in the view is the one which faces the road.

A certain number of German wounded died in the hospital and were buried in the garden; their belongings were left behind at the time of the retreat, as shown in the opposite photograph.

This retreat must have taken the occupants unawares, for a meal was on the officers' table when the French troops entered the château.

_At the cross-roads, about 300 yards beyond the château, go to the left along the Thérouanne. 200 yards further along this road_ is seen (on the right) the place where a group of German artillery was hidden. Well-screened in the hollow shown in the view below, several heavy batteries, for a long time out of reach of the 75's, made extremely difficult the advance of the French right on the Plateau of Chambry-Barcy. They also hampered the left, of the British army and the 8th French Division on the left bank of the Marne. In the course of this tour, we have already seen several examples of the German battery positions. Wherever the ground allowed of it, the guns were placed in a hollow, visible only to aerial observers. Telephones linked them up with the posts established on the ridges whence the firing was directed.

_Returning to the Route Nationale, turn to the left towards Varreddes._ On both sides of the road, which was their main way of retreat, the Germans had made lines of defence: trenches were dug and furnished with machine-guns, and light batteries were established as supports.

The whole, which joined up with the defence works of Trocy, constituted a position of withdrawal for the Étrépilly-Varreddes line, seen in panorama B (_pp. 90-91_). This was the first stage of the retreat on September 9.

This panorama was taken at the intersection of the Meaux-Soissons road (N 36) and a track which leads to Étrépilly, in the field bordering the road and where German machine-guns were established in order to sweep with their fire the Route Nationale and the bottom of the hollow.

It is easy to understand why the Germans attached so much importance to the Varreddes position.

The slopes west of the hollow (they form the background on the left of the panorama) were protected from the blows of the French artillery, and by availing themselves of this protection the Germans could easily bring up supplies or relieve the defenders on the crests, facing Chambry-Barcy. This ensured their resistance until the moment when the general trend of the action forced them to fall back.

After having examined panorama E, _continue the descent towards =Varreddes= (12 km.). Before crossing the canal_ one can see, on the right, a '75' shell which has remained fixed in the wall of an inn, of which the sign has now become: "A l'obus."

_We now enter the High Street of Varreddes._

At the entrance of the village is a certain number of houses that were damaged by the bombardment.

The German wounded, forsaken during the hasty retreat of September 9, were sheltered and nursed at the town-hall. They are seen in the opposite view. When leaving the village the Germans took twenty hostages with them, all very old, among them being the vicar. Three succeeded in escaping, but, for the others, the retreat proved (as will be seen) a veritable torture. Seven of them were murdered.

On the first day they were forced to march seventeen miles. M. Jourdain, aged 77, and M. Milliardet, aged 78, taken away with only slippers on their feet, were the first to fail from exhaustion: they were shot point-blank. Soon after, M. Vapaillé suffered the same fate.

The next day M. Terré, an invalid, fell, and was killed with revolver-shots; M. Croix and M. Llévin stumbled in their turn and were also shot.

All three were from 58 to 64 years of age. Finally, M. Mesnil, aged 67, utterly exhausted, gave in: his skull was smashed in with blows from the butt end of a rifle.

The other hostages, better able to endure, held on as far as Chauny and were sent to Germany by rail. They were repatriated five months later.

_After having traversed Varreddes and before re-crossing the canal_, a tree will be noticed on the left of the road (the 38th on the way out) which has been pierced by a '75' shell as if by a punching-press.

_40 yards beyond the canal, on the right, are seen several tracks which scale the heights. We climb the one on the right_ up to the summit, where the above panorama was taken. This gives a view of the Varreddes hollow in the opposite direction to that of panorama E (_pp. 112-113_).

Germigny, seen on the right of the photograph, is known through having been Bossuet's summer residence. The Germans had a heavy battery there, which bombarded Meaux in the early days of September. On the 8th they re-crossed the Marne, blowing up the bridge behind them.

The appearance of a French reconnoitring party composed of a sergeant-major and nine men had sufficed to cause the evacuation of the position, which, with the river behind it, seemed a dangerous one. These ten heroes were killed in the course of the battle and buried at Germigny. On the 9th, the Marne was crossed on a pontoon bridge built by British engineers, under fire, whose heroic tenacity triumphed after seventeen fruitless attempts.

The Germans, attacked besides on the heights where the tourist now stands, were obliged to retire rapidly from the hollow by the Soissons Road, under fire from the French batteries.

_On the crest of the hill a track crosses the ascending one, near two isolated walnut-trees._ On the right this road goes to Étrépilly; it constituted the German line of defence which is the subject of panorama B (_pp. 90-91_).

_The tourist will go to the left between the two walnut-trees_ and explore the crest which formed the redoubtable position occupying the background of the view on p. 89. It was well provided with trenches, machine-guns and light batteries, and all attacks against it failed, until September 9.

_Turning again to the left 1 km. further on, at the first fork in the road, the reader will follow a little path which brings him back to the Route Nationale at the point where he left it. The walk takes about 30 minutes._ The two paths, by which the ascent and descent have been made, served the Germans as channels for bringing up supplies. Their rearguard, which disputed the ground foot by foot, was routed there by a bayonet attack.

_We now return towards Meaux._ The retreating Germans followed this road, but in a contrary direction and pursued by the French shells.

At the highest point, on the right, is seen the trunk of a tree decapitated by artillery fire, at the top of which the workmen of the entrenched camp of Paris have fixed a branch to form a cross: humble and touching tribute to the brave men killed in going up to the attack.

Before arriving at Meaux we have a beautiful view of the town. _We pass under the railway; then, on the right, take the N. 3 or Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Nicolas, which brings us back to the +Cathedral+ (19 km.)._

II

THE MARSHES OF SAINT-GOND

COULOMMIERS-PROVINS-SEZANNE

=FROM MEAUX TO COULOMMIERS= (44 km.)

(See map opposite)

FROM MEAUX TO CRÉCY-EN-BRIE

_Leaving Meaux Cathedral by the Rue Saint-Étienne, which skirts it and is continued by the Rue Saint-Nicolas, turn to the right 100 yards beyond the apse of the cathedral into the Rue du Grand-Cerf in order to gain the "Pont du Marché." After crossing it, keep straight on along the Rue du Marché, leaving on the right the market where the famous Brie cheeses are sold wholesale. Take the Rue Cornillon and the Rue du Faubourg-Cornillon, and at the top of the slope, look back in order to have a general view of Meaux, dominated by its cathedral. On leaving the town continue straight along N. 36 to =Couilly= (9 km.) where we reach the valley of the Grand-Morin._

(The quickest road from Couilly to Crécy-en-Brie is N. 34, which turns to the left into the paved street of Couilly before arriving at the bridge, but the prettiest road is that indicated to the tourist, on the opposite bank of the Morin.)

_Make for =Saint-Germain=, traversing the bridge and the level-crossing, and turn to the left immediately beyond the railway into the Rue de la Gare. Turn to the left again into the Rue de Villiers, which is bordered by telegraph poles. The road follows the railway which is on the left._

On the other side of the valley are to be seen the red-tiled roofs of the modern buildings of the "Home" for actors, built on the site of the old Abbey of Pont-aux-Dames. This abbey, which was founded in the thirteenth century, was destroyed during the Revolution. Louis XIV. sent the abbess of Port-Royal-des-Champs to end her days there, after the destruction of the famous abbey of the Jansenists. Mme. du Barry, favourite of Louis XV., after an eventful life, became acquainted with the calm and self-denial of Pont-aux-Dames, when the king was no more.

The "Home" was founded in 1903 by the comedian Coquelin _aîné_, who died there in 1909 while on one of his visits to it. He is buried in the grounds, where is also his statue. Pont-aux-Dames has room for eighty inmates. There is also an open-air theatre used for performances. It is open to visitors on Thursdays and Sundays from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (one franc each). The entrance is 1,200 yards from Couilly bridge on N. 34 which follows the right bank of the river.

_The road draws nearer to the Morin, and the railway changes over to the right bank. One hundred yards beyond "La Picardie" (little rustic inn) we arrive at =Villiers-sur-Morin= and turn sharply to the left at the first street._

At this crossing, standing against the house on the right, is a pyramidical monument to the memory of the painter Amédée Servin, who died in 1884. His medallion was engraved by Falguière. It was Servin, together with the native poet Jules Grenier, who introduced the Valley of the Morin to the public. A little school of artists was formed there, which recalled that of Barbizon in the Forest of Fontainebleau, or that on the banks of the Yvette. The part known by the name of the "Morin des Peintres" (the artists' Morin) stretches from Couilly to Tigeaux (south of Crécy); many artists visit there each year.

_Traverse the bridge over the Morin and the level-crossing. Immediately afterwards turn to the right (14½ km.) into N. 34 towards Crécy-en-Brie_.

The Grand Morin was crossed on September 6, 1914, at the beginning of the battle of the Marne by the British troops, who utilised the several bridges between Villiers-sur-Morin and Coulommiers. The Germans offered but a feeble resistance; their forces at this point consisting merely of a screen of cavalry supported by a few artillery and infantry units. Their task was to cover the retreat northwards of the two army corps recalled by Von Kluck to resist the flank attack of the Army of Paris, to the north-west of Meaux.

_Shortly before arriving at Crécy, the road traverses, by means of a level-crossing, the little railway line already met with several times since Couilly and which has its terminus at Crécy._

CRÉCY-EN-BRIE

The entrance to the burgh (16½ km.) is marked by a little brick belfry surmounting a tower which belongs to the ancient fortifications. That part of the Morin which flows at its foot forms the boundary of the town, and also served as moat to the ramparts erected in the Middle Ages. Of these important defences only a few scattered towers remain of the original fifty-five.

From the bridge we have, on the right, a picturesque view of the tanneries shown in the photograph opposite.

_The tourist would be advised not to cross the bridge, but to follow on the left the pretty avenue, planted with trees, which encircles Crécy on the outside._

_This avenue, however, is not accessible to motors. The latter may take the Rue du Marché, the Rue Serret, and on the left of the Place Camus, the Rue Barrois and its continuation, the Rue Jean-de-Compans. At the bridge over the Morin, at the extremity of the town (view opposite), the motor may await the tourists, who will rejoin it by the pretty shady walk beside the Morin shown in the photograph above._

Each one of the houses bordering the river has communication with the boulevard by means of a foot-bridge, some of which are also draw-bridges. The little wash-houses fitted up in the lower storeys of the houses add to the picturesqueness of this rustic corner.

The ramparts, which in former times were reflected in the Morin, have almost disappeared; the opposite view depicts a remaining vestige: and during the walk others will be noticed.

_Having returned to the car and if it is intended to visit the beautiful church of La Chapelle-sur-Crécy (see pp. 120-121), cross the bridge over the Morin and follow the Route Nationale (N. 34) for about 1 km._

(This is also the road to take if, instead of following the tour by the valley of the Grand Morin described hereafter, tourists prefer to go straight on to Coulommiers, 14 km. from Crécy. The tour is much prettier, but 11 km. longer.)

_After visiting La Chapelle-sur-Crécy return to Crécy by the same road, cross the bridge over the Morin, follow the Rues Jean-de-Compans and Barrois and come to a halt at the Place Camus. Take a few steps towards the church in the Rue de Penthièvre_ and glance at the arm of the Morin which crosses the street. On the right is an old mill; on the left the charming scene reproduced below; in front is the tower of the church, and its most interesting part.

_Returning to the car, take the Rue Dam-Gilles, immediately to the left of the Rue de Penthièvre._

_Cross the Morin (19½ km.), then at the fork in the road 50 yards beyond the bridge turn to the left into G. C. 20 towards Tigeaux and Dammartin._

La Chapelle-sur-Crécy

This beautiful church, classed as an historical monument, dates from the thirteenth century and was restored in the fifteenth thanks to the generosity of Jeanne de Navarre, wife of Philippe de Bel.

Its situation, on a lower level than the Route Nationale, has necessitated the raising of the ground. At the present time, the height of the building is diminished by about ten feet, a fact which destroys the balance of its proportions.

This impression strikes us at once on entering, for the door is almost reduced to its ogival part. In the interior, as the view below shows, there is a flagrant disproportion between the height of the pillars and that of the arcades.

The triforium encircling the nave and choir is worthy of notice. The capitals of the pillars are finely carved; and the grimacing heads, which terminate the vaulting shafts of the choir supporting the ribs of the vault, show spirited workmanship. Before the window, at the end of the church and on the right on entering, is a group in painted stone dating from the Renaissance. It is reproduced in the photograph on p. 121.

FROM CRÉCY-EN-BRIE TO COULOMMIERS

VIA THE VALLEY OF THE GRAND MORIN

_Turning to the left on leaving Crécy into G. C. 20, beyond the bridge over the Morin, a mill is to be seen on an island in the middle of the river. Then, on the other bank, standing out boldly against the sky line, is the church of La Chapelle-sur-Crécy. Leaving the houses behind, telegraph posts begin to mark the road, and on following them we soon reach =Tigeaux= (24 km.), through which we pass to arrive at =Dammartin=. Enter the latter and turn to the left beyond the cemetery. Go up towards the church (26½ km.), but skirt it and leave to on the left hand. Take the first road to the left beyond the church, and follow the wall of the castle park. A little before the end of the wall, take on the right the "Chemin Vicinal" to Guérard, which dominates the Valley of the Morin. This road rejoins the railway, and fringes it, leaving it on the right. A pretty descent through woods leads down to the valley. When the road begins to mount, before arriving at Guérard, take the road which goes up on the right (31 km.), but without entering the village. 800 yards further on, at the cross roads, turn to the left towards =La Celle=, through which we pass (32 km.)._

We leave on the left, in La Celle, the road which crosses the Morin, and which, after following the right bank, rejoins, by way of Tresmes and near Pommeuse (6 km. further on), D 16 coming from Faremoutiers. We advise tourists to take the latter (D. 16) in order to give more variety to the tour by climbing the height above the river.

_After passing through the lower part of La Celle, the road begins to mount, traverses a level-crossing, and then by a series of zig-zags reaches the height on which the other part of the village of La Celle is built. Turn to the left in the Grand'rue (D. 16) towards =Faremoutiers=, whose church, surmounted by a tiny steeple, may be perceived in the distance. On arriving at the Place du Marché at Faremoutiers, turn to the left into the Rue de Moutiers, then to the right into the Avenue de Garenne, which runs between the church and the town-hall, and descend into the valley._

Faremoutiers was the "moûtiers" (monastery) of Sainte-Fare, who founded a convent there in the sixth century. Among its abbesses was a daughter of Charlemagne. The nuns, who were much talked of, belonged to the Order of St. Benedict. They had also many disputes with the bishops of Meaux. The monastic building was destroyed during the Revolution.

_Still following D. 16, traverse a rather dangerous level-crossing, after which turn to the right towards =Pommeuse=. At the cross roads preceding the village, turn to the left, thus leaving the church on the right. Cross the Grand-Morin, and 50 yards farther on, turn to the right (38 km.). It is here that we once again meet the road which we crossed at La Celle, and which follows the right bank of the Morin._

At Pommeuse, during the short German occupation at the beginning of September, 1914, the inhabitants were obliged to erect a barricade which was destined to bar the passage of the Morin against the British. One of the workers not displaying sufficient ardour was tied to a cart-wheel.

_D. 16 leaving =Mouroux= on the right joins N. 34 coming from Crécy; turn to the right towards =Coulommiers= (44 km.)._

COULOMMIERS

ORIGIN AND PRINCIPAL HISTORICAL FACTS

The following is a poetical version of the origin of Coulommiers. When Julius Cæsar arrived in the region, a tower dominating a few huts stood on the site of the present town. A large number of doves had made their nests in this tower, and flew around it, a fact which caused the spot to be known as _Castrum Columbarium_, from which is derived Coulommiers (the inhabitants are called Columériens).

Coulommiers developed greatly under the Counts of Champagne. The tower was surrounded by ramparts, and protected by a moat fed by the waters of the Grand Morin. These fortifications have disappeared, only a few fragments, situated in the Avenue Victor-Hugo, remaining. Coulommiers was occupied by the English in the fifteenth century, by the Russians in 1814, and by the Germans in 1870.

On September 4, 1914, the retreating British army abandoned Coulommiers, from which the greater part of the population had fled, barely 600 inhabitants remaining in the town. The Germans entered on the 5th and remained until the morning of the 7th. During this short stay they pillaged methodically, and it was owing only to the energy of the mayor, M. Delsol, 77 years of age, and of the "Procureur de la République," M. Chatry, whose adventures are related below, that Coulommiers did not experience the horrors of Senlis.

VISIT TO THE TOWN

_Enter Coulommiers by the Rue de Paris, which crosses the Rue de Melun opposite the Hôtel de l'Ours. Cross this street in order to follow the Rue des Capucins, which forms the continuation of the Rue de Paris._

_We arrive before a gateway, on the right, opening into the picturesque grounds of the old castle. Enter by the gateway on the left of the principal building._ A German Staff established itself here during the occupation of September, 1914.

Of the eighteenth century castle, built by the Duchess of Longueville, only the large moat and a few quaint ruins remain.

We cross the moat by the bridge shown in the photograph opposite, and pass in between two little lodges, on which some curious carving is still to be seen (_view above_). Enter the inner courtyard of the castle, now transformed into a garden. On the right and on the left a few ruins are to be seen. The view on p. 124 is of those on the left. After having re-crossed the bridge turn to the left in order to take a glance at the ancient chapel of the Capucins dating from the seventeenth century. At the far end is a rood-loft whose rich wood carvings contrast with the dismantled walls of the chapel.

Leaving the grounds, _take the Rue des Capucins again, and on arriving at the Hôtel de l'Ours_ (where the Germans held orgies as well as at the Hôtel du Soleil Levant, a little lower down, in the Rue de la Pêcherie,) _turn to the right into the Rue de Melun_.

We arrive at the bridge from which the photograph below was taken. The building on the left, of which only a corner is to be seen, is the town-hall. Further to the right, in the background and half-hidden by the trees, is a large house, which lodged a German staff during the occupation. Behind the trees is the theatre.

A little beyond the bridge is a green painted house, 7. Rue de la Pêcherie, where M. Chatry, Procureur de la République, was held prisoner. The latter, in his account before the Enquiry Commission, recalled the incidents of his arrest and of his imprisonment.

"_In the evening I was at the town-hall, when a rough-looking Staff Officer came up to me in the secretary's office, saying: 'Take your casque_ (the magistrate's "toque") _and follow me,' continuing: 'You said you did not know where to find any oats; we have just found some, so you lied; you are a liar and a swine. Come with me and see.' I accompanied him to the granary of the town-mill, which had been broken into and pillaged by the Germans. I remarked that after all there were oats there, and I became again the object of redoubled insults: 'Swine, you will be shot.' And when I protested, declaring my ignorance of this provision of oats, the officer shouted repeatedly: 'Swine, shut your mouth'; at the same time, I was roughly handled and my arm and shoulder bruised._

"_He then forced me to go round the town looking for more oats. I was again insulted and roughly used in a shop where the officer kicked those who were there. 'If, within an hour,' he told me, 'you have not found more oats, you will be shot.'_