Part 18

1. PRÉFECTURE 2. HOTEL DE VILLE 3. TRIBUNAL CIVIL 4. ARCHIVES 5. ST ANTOINE 6. TEMPLE PROTEST. 7. SYNAGOGUE 8. THEATRE 9. BANQUE DE FRANCE 10. CAISSE D'ÉPARGNE 11. HALLES 12. GENDARMERIE 13. TOUR DU BEFFROI 14. ANCIEN CHÂTEAU DES DUCS DE BAR 15. HOSPICE CIVIL ET MILITAIRE 16. -- DES VIEILLARDS 17. COUVENT DES DOMINICAINES 18. ANCIEN COLLÈGE GILLES DE TRÈVES

BAR-LE-DUC]

VISIT TO THE TOWN

(See plan p. 239)

Lower Town.--See +Notre-Dame Bridge+ and Church of Notre-Dame.

Upper Town.--See +The Castle+; +Gilles-de-Trèves College+; +The Clock-Tower+ (tour de l'Horloge); +The Esplanade+; +The Place and Church of Saint Pierre+.

This town is famous for its celebrated red-currant jam; the pips of the fruit being removed one by one before cooking. Also "Vin gris."

THE LOWER TOWN

Notre-Dame Bridge

This was first built of wood, then towards the middle of the fourteenth century, of stone. The Chapel to the Virgin on one of the piles has been in existence since the seventeenth century. It escaped destruction in the troubled times of the Revolution in consequence, it is said, of the prudent substitution of the busts of Marat and Robespierre for the statue of the Virgin.

There is a pretty view of the Ornain from the bridge; but in order to see the bridge itself in its most picturesque aspect, take a few steps along the edge of the south bank, whence the photo below was taken.

Notre-Dame

This church may be seen from the bridge. Parts of it date from the thirteenth to the fifteenth centuries, whilst one front and one tower belong to the eighteenth. The bas-relief of the façade representing the Assumption belongs to 1750. In the interior, in the right branch of the transept, is an interesting fifteenth century bas-relief representing the Virgin and symbolic figures.

THE UPPER TOWN

The upper town is the most interesting part of Bar-le-Duc.

The two photographs on this page show it as it appears from the lower town.

Motors can reach it easily _by following the Boulevard de la Rochelle, then taking, on the right, the Rue Lapique, which passes before the town-hall and leads to the Avenue du Château_.

_At the top of this avenue after passing, on the left, the Romanesque entrance to the old ducal castle_ (reached by about twenty steps) _by turning to the right one can follow on foot the Rue Gilles-de-Trèves for about one hundred yards, as far as_ the ancient college of the same name, which is classed as an historical monument. It has an interesting Renaissance front looking on to the courtyard.

_Return to the Avenue du Château, which is continued on the left by the Rue du Baile._ It is from there that the photographs on p. 242 were taken, the one looking towards the lower town, along the castle walls, the other towards Old Bar.

At the end of the Rue du Baile, on the left is the Clock Tower shown in the photograph on p. 243.

_Pedestrians need not follow the above itinerary, but can gain the Clock Tower directly by taking the Rue d'Entre-deux-Ponts and the Rue Rousseau, visible in the foreground of the_ photo on p. 241. _The Rue Rousseau after skirting the Place Reggio_ (see page 241), _crosses the Canal des Usines. In doing so_, the little Church of Saint-Anthony may be seen astride the canal. It dates from the fourteenth century. _Turn next to the left into the Rue Oudinot. After about_ 200 yards, _take on the left the Rue Saint-Antoine as far as the bridge over the Canal des Usines_, from whence there is a picturesque view of the old houses which throng this narrow stream of water. _We retrace our steps and go beyond the Rue Rousseau in order to take the Rue de l'Horloge on the left._ This street mounts to the upper town and passes at the foot of the Clock Tower. One rejoins the latter by means of a stair, the beginning of which is seen on the left in the photo at the top of page 243. The fourteenth century Clock Tower is all that remains of the fortifications of Bar, which, as we have seen on p. 238, were destroyed by order of Louis XIV. in 1670. From the top of the stair, to the left of the tower, there is a fine view of the lower town and of the valley. The photo at the foot of p. 243 was taken from this spot. If one wishes to climb the tower, the guardian must be consulted. _Turn to the right on leaving the Clock Tower, in order to reach the Castle Esplanade_, which is planted with ancient trees. From this point there is a view of another part of Bar-le-Duc (see photo p. 244).

To the left of the esplanade are the remains of the old ducal castle. The photo at the foot of p. 244 depicts the Romanesque doorway which is the oldest part of it. We saw this doorway from the other side when ascending the Avenue du Château. It was formerly on the level, but in 1871, when the carriage road was made, it was united to the avenue by steps.

The castle occupied formerly the whole of the plateau. It was built in 964 by Frederick I., Count of Bar, and altered in succeeding centuries. All that remains are a few sixteenth century buildings, seen in the photo at the foot of p. 244, and of which the external view is reproduced at the top of p. 242. The buildings and the chapel seen between the Clock Tower and the esplanade belong to an old Dominican convent built in the nineteenth century.

_After going round the esplanade, return to the Rue du Baile and follow it towards Old Bar. Take, on the right of the Place-de-la Fontaine, Rue des Ducs de Bar_, which has preserved some quaint sixteenth and seventeenth century houses. _Turn to the left in this street in order to enter Place Saint-Pierre_, at the extremity of which stands the church of this name, classed as an historical monument.

The Place has retained its old world aspect. Sixteenth and seventeenth century houses, of which the most beautiful, No. 21, is a museum, form a fitting frame to the old church.

_The museum is open to the public on Sundays, from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., and at any time to strangers to the town (gratuity)._

It contains collections of painting, sculpture, and natural history.

Saint-Pierre is the oldest church in Bar-le-Duc.

It was begun in the fourteenth century; the front, reproduced on p. 245, dates from the sixteenth century, with the exception of the quadrangular cupola surmounted by a lantern, which crowns the tower.

This portion, which jars with the transitional Gothic of the rest of the edifice, was added in the seventeenth century. The plans for the right hand tower were never executed.

In the interior, in the right branch of the transept, is the masterpiece of the great Lorraine sculptor of the sixteenth century, Ligier-Richier, pupil of Michael Angelo. It is the funeral monument of René of Châlon, Prince of Orange, and is commonly known as "the Skeleton."

René de Châlon, who was killed in 1544 at the siege of Saint-Dizier, is said to have expressed the wish to be impersonated on his tomb as he would be three years after his death. It was in order to conform to his wish that his widow, Louise of Lorraine, ordered Richier to execute the strikingly realistic monument seen in the photo below. The "Skeleton" was carved in stone, then placed in a bath of oil and wax which gave it the appearance of old ivory.

Opposite the pulpit and suspended from the pillars in the nave, is a carving of Christ between the two thieves. This crucifixion-group dates from the sixteenth century and is in walnut wood, but has been repainted in modern times.

It has sometimes been attributed to Ligier-Richier. In a chapel to the left of the choir there is kept a sixteenth century bas-relief representing St.-François d'Assises, patron saint of François Brûlé, rector of Saint-Pierre, between Saint Peter and Saint Max, Abbot of Chinon.

In the right aisle there is a beautiful Renaissance chapel and the baptistry.

_Motors descend again into the lower town by the same road taken in coming up._

Other secondary places of interest

+Monument des Michaux+, at the corner of Rue Rousseau and Rue du Bourg, was erected in 1894. The two Michaux were the carriage-builders who invented the fitting of pedals to bicycles.

+The+ "+Café des Oiseaux+," in the theatre in the Rue Rousseau, the hall of which is surrounded by glass cases containing more than 50,000 natural history specimens.

+The Rue du Bourg+ is famous for its old Renaissance houses.

+The Public Garden+ lies behind the town-hall.

+The Church of Saint-Jean+ at the end of the Boulevard de la Rochelle was begun in 1882 in the Romanesque style.

+The "Porte de la Couronne"+ (Place de la Couronne) dates from 1751.

FIELD OF OPERATIONS OF THE THIRD FRENCH ARMY

=III.--TOUR ROUND BAR-LE-DUC= (66 km.)

(See map inserted between pp. 212-213)

+Via Villers-aux-Vents+, +Brabant-le-Roi+, +Revigny+, +Nettancourt+, +Sommeilles+, +Laheycourt+, +Louppy-le-Château+, +Louppy-le-Petit+, +Génicourt+, +Vavincourt+

_Leave by the Boulevard de la Banque. Cross the Canal des Usines, then take on the right the road to Revigny or G. C. D. 4, 1,500 yards further. Cross the railway by a level-crossing and then the Marne-Rhine Canal._

_The road dips down to the left in order to follow the railway, and then crosses the Ornain, of which it follows the right bank. We come to the hamlet of =Venise=, but continue in the direction of =Laimont= (12 km.)._ Half-way thither, on the right, may be seen the woods which constituted the ultimate line of resistance of the Fifth Corps during the violent attacks which it experienced on September 6, and in which it lost about ten kilometres. Snatched from the Tenth Division of the Sixth Corps on the night of the 6th, Laimont was only retaken on the 11th by the Fifteenth Corps. As may be seen in the above photo, the church was damaged by shells. Many houses were destroyed. When they left Laimont the Germans took away seven hostages, among them the rector.

_G. C. D. 4 branches off to the left to cross through Laimont, and passes in front of the church; but instead of following it, leave the village on the left and continue straight along the road which becomes G. C. D. 15._

_2 km. 4 further on, take the "Chemin vicinal" to the right leading to Villers-aux-Vents. After crossing a stream, turn to the left at the entrance to the village, following a winding road which leads to the church._ =Villers-aux-Vents= (16 km.) was completely destroyed by the fire which the Germans kindled before leaving. It was attacked on September 6 by masses of infantry coming up from the north and north-west, and gallantly defended by the Tenth Division, which occupied the village and its neighbourhood. Violent fighting took place to the north of Villers, near the Grand-Morinval Pond, in the course of which General Roques, who was commanding the Division, was mortally wounded. Giving way under force of numbers, the Tenth Division was obliged to evacuate Villers and fall back on Laimont. As we have seen above, this village also was lost during the night, and the line of defence was taken up in the woods to the east.

The Germans took three hostages at Villers, under circumstances of which one of them, M. Vigroux, gave details before the Commission of Enquiry. He was coming out of his house when he perceived another resident, M. Minette, surrounded by soldiers. "_At the same time_," he declared, _"a Prussian came up to me, seized me, and led me away, his revolver pointed at my head, without my having threatened or gesticulated. I next saw the Prussians strike Minette with their fists and with the butt-end of their rifles; they also tore off his clothes, finally leaving him naked._

_"They then secured his hands with an iron chain."_

The hostages were led one kilometre from the village. Minette was separated from the group and made to kneel. He was then shot. As far as his companions were able to understand, the Germans appeared to have found in his house an old and useless revolver. After the death of Minette, the other hostages were set free.

_At the other end of the village from the church, in a field on the left_, is a subterranean shelter, known in the village under the name of the "Crown Prince's Dug-out," the photo at the top of this page shows the entrance to it. This shelter was dug during the German occupation, and the armchairs from the church were placed in it to make it more comfortable. According to local authority, the Crown Prince stayed for a time at Villers, and the shelter was made for his convenience.

_Descend from the plateau on which the village is built, and at the foot of the hill, after having crossed the river, take on the right the "Chemin vicinal" which leads back to G. C. D. 15._ It is the little road which is seen in the above photograph. G. C. D. 15, planted with trees, appears on the horizon.

_At the meeting of the roads, turn to the right towards =Brabant-le-Roi= (20 km.). In this village, turn to the left near the church and continue straight forward to =Revigny= (22 km.) by G. C. 20, which crosses the picture at the foot of p. 247._

It was between Brabant and Revigny, near the railway which follows the road on the right, that the Zeppelin L.Z. 77 was brought down on February 21, 1915, at 9·15 p.m. The carcase of the great air-ship is visible in the above photo; opposite is the photo of the motor-cannon which brought it down. It was under the orders of Adjutant Gramling (on the right in the photo) and was pointed by the Chief-Pointer Pennetier (at his post of observation behind the shield).

Revigny, like Brabant-le-Roi, fell on September 6, in spite of a brilliant defence by the Fifth Corps. On September 12 it was re-occupied by the Fifteenth Corps. _In Revigny, after passing a level-crossing and continuing straight on, turn to the left, in order to reach the church shown in the photograph below._

The Church of Revigny is classed as an historical monument. It is a fifteenth and sixteenth century edifice, the most interesting part of which is the apse. The gargoyles on the buttresses are curious. The steeple was destroyed by the fire lighted by the Germans; the roof fell in and the interior was ravaged by the flames.

_On returning to the street by which we entered, continue towards the centre of the town, then turn to the left into the principal street_, from which, over the ruined houses, the photo (below) of the church was taken. At No. 21, at the corner of the Rue du Four, is the bakery of which we give photographs, both of the interior and the exterior, at the foot of the page. Hundreds of houses are in this state or have completely disappeared.

_We reach next the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville_; the town-hall has been completely destroyed.

The fire was preceded by pillage. Numerous waggons were laden with articles deemed of interest, and sent down the line. The walls of the houses were then sprayed with paraffin from hand syringes. Packets of tablets made of compressed gunpowder, and sticks of inflammable matter thrown into the burning houses, stimulated the flames. During three days the fires which died out were thus relighted. Only the houses where the officers were staying were spared. As they declared to the rector, the Germans did this from no other motive but to spread terror, and they did it systematically.

_On arriving at the Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, we shall retrace our steps as far as the Church of =Brabant-le-Roi=, then turn to the left towards Nettancourt by C. G. D. 15._

_Continue along the road and go over a level-crossing, then follow the valley of the Chée to reach =Nettancourt= (30 km.), and turn to the left to reach the chapel._ The church is not in the village, but on a hill to the west. It dates from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and is classed as an historical monument. It has suffered from fire and from shells.

Nettancourt fell into the hands of the Germans on September 6. _On leaving the village, strike off G. C. D. 15 and take on the right the Sommeilles Road or G. C. 27. Go over a level-crossing and turn immediately to the left. At =Sommeilles= (34 km.), turn to the left to reach the church, then to the right in order to visit the town-hall._ The church is capable of restoration, but of the latter only the front remains. As for the houses, they were completely destroyed by fires lighted by the Germans under the same conditions as at Revigny--by spraying them with paraffin from hand-pumps.

It was on the 6th, when the 51st German Infantry Regiment arrived, that fires broke out in the whole of the village. The inhabitants fled before the flames, but the soldiers seized them and asked for information regarding the movements of the French troops, threatening at the same time to shoot them. Eight hostages were led as far as Brabant-le-Roi, where they were released after having been made to kneel, whilst their captors made a dumb show of firing at them.

The Germans committed still more inexcusable crimes at Sommeilles. On September 12, when the Light Infantry entered the village, the officers and the doctor found in the cellar of the Adnot family's house, seven corpses. Death had taken place under particularly atrocious conditions. The Official Report gives the following details:

"We discovered the body of a man of about sixty (_M. Adnot_) who had been shot, he had two wounds in his chest, and his eyes were still bandaged; that of a woman of about the same age (_Mme. Adnot_) with no visible wounds; another of a woman of about thirty-five years, whose right fore-arm, entirely severed from the rest of her body, had been thrown at some distance. Her clothing had been torn off (this woman appeared to have been violated). Then that of a little girl of about twelve years, who seemed to have met the same fate; those of three children of from five to ten years, two of whose heads had been cut off and thrown near the bodies."

After visiting Sommeilles, _we retrace our steps as far as the cross-roads, which we met on arriving at the village, and continue straight on towards Laheycourt by G. C. 35. In =Laheycourt= (39 km.), through which we pass_, the monumental town-hall on the right, shown in the photo below, is worthy of note. It was burned by the Germans. The church opposite was turned into a hospital, and was spared for this reason. A certain number of houses were burned, or destroyed by shells.

_On leaving Laheycourt, pass a level-crossing, then follow the railway for about 2 km. The railway then leaves the road and goes towards Villotte and Lisle-en-Barrois, while the road continues along the Valley of the Chée towards Louppy-le-Château._

The right wing of the Fifth Corps experienced violent fighting in this region on September 6. After having lost Sommeilles and Laheycourt, it turned to bay at Louppy-le-Château, as also at Villotte on the 8th.

_Traversing_ =Louppy-le-Château= (44 km.), three-quarters destroyed by fire, the church will be noticed on the right, in a piteous condition from shelling, as shown in the photographs on p. 253. It dates from the thirteenth century and was restored in the nineteenth. The steeple was destroyed and the roof has fallen in. The bell, which was recovered from amidst the ruins, has been set up on the ground, and still summons the inhabitants to the services held in the roughly repaired choir.

The Germans committed revolting acts of brutality and immorality at Louppy-le-Château during the night of September 8-9, in a cellar where women and children had taken refuge from shell-fire. Two married women of 74 and 70 years, a spinster of 71 years, and a mother of 44 years and her children were odiously misused. The mother made the following declaration before the Commission of Enquiry:

"_I was in M. Raussin's cellar with my five children and other persons from the village, when three Germans, with revolvers in their hands, entered. One of them commanded me to lie down on the ground. I was obliged to obey.... Meanwhile, I received numerous blows. The Germans left the cellar, but two came back again. I made a dash for the stair and was not again mishandled, but I heard sounds of the scenes of violence to which the women who remained in the cellar were subjected. Among them were my two daughters aged thirteen years and eight years respectively. Both were violated, the latter, who was killed by a shell splinter on the following day, being unable to walk._"

The brother of the little victims, a boy aged eleven, made the following declaration: "_I was sleeping in M. Raussin's cellar, when two Germans woke me, and tore my trousers. I cried out_: '_I am a little boy.' They gave me a sound thrashing and struck my head with their fists._"

_On leaving Louppy-le-Château, turn to the left into I. C. 55 in the direction_. _of Louppy-le-Petit. Cross the Chée, then turn immediately to the right. 2½ km. further on cross a tributary of this river, and thus reach_ =Louppy-le-Petit= (49 km.). The defenders of Louppy-le-Château, subjected to a violent shell-fire, were obliged to abandon the village on September 8, and fall back on Louppy-le-Petit, which they were compelled to abandon likewise on the 9th. The line of defence was removed further east to Génicourt, which the tourist will pass after Louppy.

_In Louppy, turn to the right towards the church_, where the bombardment has caused much havoc. _Descend towards the Chée and, cross it. Immediately afterwards, I. C. 55 turns to the left in the direction of =Génicourt-sous-Condé= (51½ km.)._