CHAPTER X
FINISHING, BOTTLING, STERILIZING, AND STORING THE CATSUP
The Receiving Tank and Finisher
From the cooking kettles the catsup is usually run through the finisher, and then conducted to a receiving tank, either by gravity or by pumping. If a pump is used, care should be taken that the pump parts which come in contact with the catsup are of bronze. Needless to say, enamel lined pipe should be used. The receiving tank should be either of wood, or enamel, or glass-lined steel.
Regarding the finishing of the catsup, the action on the metal screen is more severe than in pulp, and it is best to use a monel metal screen. It will usually be noticed that the frothy catsup which collects at the large end of the cone of the screen blackens quickly. This is probably due to the air, and this catsup should be scraped off into a pail as it collects, and mixed back in the cooking kettle, just giving it a minute cook. It is also very important to see that the screen fits absolutely tight, and to frequently inspect it for small cuts which are often made by pieces of tin or glass accidentally getting into the catsup.
Filling and Sealing
If the catsup is to be sterilized after bottling it is usually just run through an ordinary enamel lined pipe from the receiving tank to the filling machine, but if it is not to be given an after-sterilization a steam-jacketed pipe should be used here. This will be discussed further later in the chapter.
Rotary fillers are being used quite commonly for catsup now, and they do the work rapidly, with little waste, and with a small labor outlay per gross for bottling. The more simple types of fillers, operated either with a foot or hand lever, are less expensive, and also do the work quite well, although not as rapidly as the rotary fillers.
The empty bottles should be washed in hot water on a rotary bottle washing machine, and filled directly after washing if an after-sterilization is to be used. If the catsup is not to be processed after bottling, the empty bottles should be given a hot air sterilization after they are washed, and the bottles conducted to the filling machine from the sterilizer.
If an automatic rotary filler is used, the bottle capping machine is usually regulated to operate at the same speed as the filler, and the whole line becomes automatic. The type of closure most commonly used now is the crown style, either plain or of the self-opening type. The cork is getting to be a thing of the past for catsup. These closures come either with a composition cork insert or with a solid cork insert, the former being a little cheaper, and for catsup it is just as good. For chili sauce, or any bottle having a wide mouth, I do not like the composition cork insert, as the vacuum produced in a wide-mouthed bottle on cooling is too great a strain on the composition, and is apt to cause it to crack. For narrow-mouthed bottles such as catsup, the composition cork is all right.
Washing the Filled Bottles
Whether or not an after-sterilization is used, the filled bottles should be run through a warm water bath immediately after sealing to wash off any catsup which adheres to the outside of the bottle before it has a chance to bake on. If this water bath has a couple of jets of compressed air entering it to keep the water vigorously agitated, the bottles will come out nice and clean. Of course, a continuous flow of clean water must be allowed to pass into the bath, with an overflow at the opposite end. If bottles of catsup are put into processing tanks with catsup adhering to the outside of the bottle, the soluble part of the catsup will be dissolved in the process water but there will be flakes of insoluble tomato fiber floating in the process water everywhere, and these will bake on the bottles so hard that it is very hard to remove. After a few days this condition in the process tanks becomes very bad, and the bottles become increasingly hard to clean. If the bottles are clean when they are put into the tanks, and the tanks are clean, they will come out of the tanks clean and ready to be labeled.
Processing
The process method is probably used by the majority of catsup packers, first, because they feel that an after-sterilization is an insurance which is well worth paying for, and they can have more peace of mind knowing that they have processed their goods; second, because by processing carefully and intelligently the color and flavor of their goods will be scarcely effected, except when made from pulp which is a little overcooked; third, because they don’t know much about packing catsup so that it will keep without processing, and they don’t care to experiment, as they feel that in the end the experimenting may prove disastrous to their business.
In this attitude no one can blame them. There is nothing more trying on a manufacturer than having complaints on fermentation coming in from every corner of the country. The natural inclination is to let well enough alone, and take no chances.
At the same time it must be admitted that thousands of cases of catsup are being manufactured every day without processing, and it is giving little or no trouble. Those who use this system say it is a waste of time and money to process, and that years of experience have shown that processing is unnecessary.
Advantages of Omitting Processing
There are certain advantages in not processing. In the first place a better colored and flavored product is often obtained, particularly if the catsup is made from pulp, and especially is this true if the pulp is a little overcooked, and consequently a little dark in color. Then there is the advantage of the saving on labor and on steam, which is a large item. Running a half dozen or more process tanks constantly draws heavily on the steam supply, and the processing means more handling of the bottled product, and therefore more labor. It also means more equipment, with the floor space which this equipment takes—not only a lot of tanks, in case stationary tanks are used, but iron baskets to hold the bottles, electric or steam hoist, and trolley track. Not only the original cost but the maintenance of this equipment is considerable. Then there is a certain amount of breakage during processing. Also, steam must be kept up late at night for no other purpose than processing.
When no after-sterilization is used all of this is done away with, and the only equipment needed to supplant the above is a steam-jacketed pipe to conduct the catsup to the filling machine, and a continuous hot air sterilizer for the bottles, which usually consists of a vertical shaft, and takes up practically no floor space.
Process Method
I will discuss in detail the process method first. The catsup should be filled as hot as possible, and it is a good idea to use a steam-jacketed pipe in this case, as well as in the non-process method, because the hotter the catsup is when bottled, the quicker the center of the bottle will be raised to the desired temperature, and the quicker the sterilization can be accomplished. The catsup should be 180 degrees or above when it enters the tank of the filling machine, and it should be placed in the process tanks as soon after sealing as possible.
The process tanks may be large stationary iron tanks, or a continuous pasteurizer such as is used in beer bottling plants may be used. The latter is the better way, as it is compact, automatic, takes up very little floor space, and there is no danger of over-sterilization, or of scorching by leaving the bottles in the tanks after the water is drawn off, where the air cannot get at them to cool them off. The reason continuous pasteurizers are not used more commonly is their expense, although they should pay for themselves in a few years by the labor and steam they save, it being only necessary to keep one large tank in operation instead of a half dozen or more.
If stationary tanks are used, which is usually the case, the catsup should be taken out of them as soon as the water is drawn off, so that the air can get at the bottles and cool them off. To leave the hot, bottled catsup in the tanks over night is almost as bad as piling a lot of hot pulp close together, the only difference being that there is a little more room for air circulation between the catsup bottles, but not much.
Time and Temperature
There is a great difference between the time and temperature employed for processing in different factories. Some packers process as low as 170 degrees F., it is said, while others use a temperature very close to the boiling point. In some plants pint bottles receive only a 30–minute process, while in others they get over an hour.
The proper time to use depends upon the temperature that can be maintained at the filling machine, and the rapidity with which the processing can be done after the filling. If the packer can hold his catsup around 180 degrees at the filler, and is so equipped, either with continuous pasteurizers or stationary tanks, that he can process immediately, an hour is ample time for pints, and 45 minutes is sufficient for half-pints; other sizes accordingly. If, however, the temperature of the catsup at the filler often falls to 170 degrees or below, and the catsup is filled faster than it can be processed, so that at times much of it must stand for an hour before it can get in the process tanks, 15 minutes additional for each size bottle had better be added to the above.
This may seem to some packers like a long time. All one has to do to convince himself that it is not too long is to take one of those thermometers which are made especially for determining temperatures at the center of the bottle, and put it in a bottle of catsup while it is being processed, watch the mercury rise, and note the time it takes to bring the center of the bottle to the temperature of the water surrounding it. You will find that if the water surrounding a pint bottle is 200 degrees, and the temperature at the center of the bottle is 160 degrees, it will take just about an hour to bring the catsup at the center of the bottle up to 200 degrees.
As to the proper temperature, I do not see why as high a temperature as is possible without breaking the bottles should not be used. Why some packers process at 170 degrees or 180 degrees I do not know. They certainly have not carefully investigated the effect of their processing. The temperature I prefer is six degrees below boiling. At sea level this would be 206 degrees. This temperature will not break the bottles, but the steam pipes entering the tank should be so arranged and perforated that there will be as even a distribution of steam as possible. If these pipes are not properly arranged, there is apt to be as much as 6 degrees variation in the temperature at different parts of the tank.
Several years ago I made a large number of tests to determine the number of micro-organisms that remained alive in bottled catsup after processing at 206 degrees F., as compared with the number which remained alive in catsup bottled from the same batch and processed at 200 degrees F. for the same length of time. The difference was surprising. I expected some difference, but not nearly as great as was shown by the tests. That which was processed at 200 degrees for an hour contained quite a few living molds, yeasts, and bacteria per cubic centimeter. This was shown by plating out samples bacteriologically on culture media—the media used being dextrose agar and wart agar. The catsup from the same batch processed one hour at 206 degrees contained scarcely any living micro-organisms at all per cubic centimeter. This test was repeated a number of times with the same result each time. These micro-organisms may have been in the form of spores in the catsup, but developed into the vegetative forms of molds, yeasts, and bacteria when placed in the culture media.
Temperature Controlling and Recording Devices
The process tanks should all be equipped with temperature controllers and recording thermometers. The controller holds the steam at the right point, not allowing the temperature to vary more than 2 degrees, if it is a good make. Several years ago it was impossible to find a temperature controller which operated without compressed air that would hold the temperature closer than a variation of 10 degrees, which is too wide a variation for catsup pasteurization. The compressed air controllers worked very well but required an air compressor where the pressure must be held within certain limits, and air pipes to connect with all the controllers. Some plants did not have the air equipment, and in cases where it was put in the pipes gave more or less trouble due to the collection of moisture in them and to occasional grains of dust or rust from the air tank which lodged in the controller and threw it off. It is now possible, however, to obtain controllers which will operate with almost no variation from the temperature desired, and which require no compressed air for their proper functioning. Under these conditions there is hardly an excuse for a manufacturer to operate his plant on the old system of hand control of the steam valves, with the resulting losses in manufactured goods due to pure reliance on human efficiency.
The recording thermometer makes a pen and ink record on a chart showing the temperature and length of time each tank of catsup is given, or, if a continuous pasteurizer is used, it shows up any variations in the temperature of the water in that pasteurizer during the day. The factory manager can look at all of these charts in the morning, and know positively that every bottle of catsup was processed the right length of time, and at the right temperature. If any mistakes were made the chart will show it, and it will show at just what time the mistake was made, and how serious it was. It is a great satisfaction to have such a record, and the processor invariably takes great pride in making a perfect chart.
Non-Process Method
When no after-sterilization is given, it is imperative that the catsup be very hot when filled. Boiling catsup runs about 214 degrees F. in temperature, and although running it through the finisher and receiving tank cools it down somewhat, if it is heated in a long jacketed pipe while being conveyed from receiving tank to filling machine it should not be below 180 degrees at the very lowest when filled, and if it can be filled hotter than that, so much the better. As to the pipe above mentioned, the smaller the pipe, and the larger the steam jacket, and the higher the steam pressure, the greater will be the heating capacity of this jacket on the catsup. After a little experimenting these points can be adjusted to give the proper result. If the jacketed area is short, of course a higher steam pressure must be used than if this area is long.
Some packers of non-processed catsup use a jacketed tank or kettle directly over the filling machine to hold the catsup at a high temperature while it is awaiting bottling, with a very short line of enamel pipe going from it to the filling machine. If this is used, a jacketed pipe is not needed.
Guesswork should be eliminated. Do not assume that you are getting the right temperature on your catsup when it is filled, and do not be satisfied with going up to the filler once or twice a day, dropping a thermometer in the liquid, and waiting for the temperature to record itself. Put a recording thermometer in that tank just over the filling tubes, with the dial in a prominent place, so that you can step up to it at any time and know what the exact temperature of that catsup has been every minute of the time for the past ten or twelve hours.
If this is done there is no chance of escape on the part of the man who is supposed to watch this temperature, and if he knows his work is being recorded every minute on a chart he is going to be mighty careful.
The empty bottles, when placed in the filling machine, should be clean and practically sterile. After they have passed around the rotary bottle washer, and had a thorough washing with hot water, they are placed in the hot air sterilizer neck down, so they can drain. The best kind of sterilizer is an endless chain carrying trays to hold about a dozen bottles each, and enclosed and protected by either wood or metal. The sterilizer should be vertical, so that it will not occupy much floor space, and inside of the wood or metal covering are steam pipes fitted with a temperature controller or thermostat so that a temperature of about 250 degrees F. can be maintained. The speed of the endless chain is so regulated that it takes about 30 minutes from the time the bottles enter the sterilizer until they come out.
Needless to say, the filling machine should be kept scrupulously clean, and before being used in the morning, or for the afternoon run, should be thoroughly steamed out so that it will be hot and practically sterile to receive the first batch of catsup.
As to the bottle closures, if they are kept in covered barrels in a clean place and not allowed to be contaminated by dust, etc., it is not considered necessary to sterilize them, although they could no doubt be given a hot air sterilization very easily if it was thought necessary. I have seen thousands of cases packed without sterilizing the closures, and the catsup never gave any trouble.
After applying the closure the bottles are rinsed off in a warm water bath, and are then ready to be labeled and cased.
Which Method Is the Better?
Now comes the question which is of vital importance to every packer—what am I going to do—give my catsup an after-sterilization or not? I believe the answer to that question should depend upon the conditions under which the packer operates. I do not believe either method is to be recommended universally, but that there are many cases where it is better not to process, and other cases where processing is advisable.
If a manufacturer makes his product at a large central plant, where he can count on reliable and fairly intelligent help at all times, and where he is so equipped that he is not bothered with frequent breakdowns and delays during the day’s run, he should give the non-processing method his careful consideration, and I believe he will profit by adopting it. If, on the other hand, he has many plants scattered all over the country, many of them dependent to a large extent on an indifferent class of help, with little experience or intelligence, or he has a lot of wornout equipment, and has several breakdowns almost every day in the bottling department, he had better insure his product by processing.
If I were building a new plant or remodeling an old one, I would most certainly arrange to eliminate processing if I could count on a fairly good class of help.
Labeling and Casing
Most bottles are labeled by machine. The machines do the work much faster than can be done by hand, and also do it neater as a rule. However, in most cases it is necessary to have someone to adjust the neck band after the bottle leaves the machine. Sometimes they are wrapped, and sometimes not. Wrapping in transparent tissue makes a very attractive package, and it will modify the effect of strong light, which some manufacturers think has a discoloring tendency if the catsup is exposed to it a long time.
Both wood and fiber cases are used for catsup, and the fiber cases seem to do all right where the contents do not weigh over about 40 lbs. If they weigh more than that it is usually considered advisable to use wood cases.
Stacking Catsup to Avoid “Black Neck”
In CHAPTER VIII mention was made of the darkening in the neck of the bottle, called “black neck.” It was stated that this was usually due to the fact that the closure is not absolutely air tight, and allows the air to very slowly filter into the space in the neck, which should be a vacuum if the seal is perfectly tight. This condition can be partly avoided by printing the cases so that when the case is stacked right side up the catsup will be neck down in the case. Therefore, the vacuum space will be at the bottom of the bottle, instead of at the neck, and there is no chance for air to filter into the neck because the body of the catsup is right up against the closure. When these cases are shipped out and stacked in a warehouse, the catsup will always be bottom up as long as the cases are right side up. In all probability the bottles will remain in this position until the case is unpacked by the retailer and the bottles are placed on the shelves.
Packing Gallons and No. 10’s
Packing catsup in gallon glass jars and enamel lined No. 10 cans is very similar to packing it in bottles. These sizes can either be processed or not processed, and the same principles apply as in packing the smaller sizes. If no process is given, the containers should be put through a hot air sterilizer, just as the small bottles are, and the catsup should be very hot when filled.
With glass jars the breakage is often very great, and they must be heated slowly and carefully, and placed on a warm wooden surface when they are filled. A metal surface beneath the jars will almost always cause a lot of breakage due to the fact that it chills so easily. For the closure a cork is usually used, and the process should not exceed 180 degrees, as a higher temperature will cause the corks to pop out. A process of two hours is sufficient for gallon jars.
If No. 10 catsup is given an after-sterilization, 1½ hours in boiling water is sufficient. It must be understood that it takes much longer for the heat to penetrate to the center of a can of catsup than it does with pulp, as the catsup contains sugar and salt and is heavier in specific gravity. After-sterilization the cans should be cooled gradually in water, and allowed to remain in the water until they only have sufficient heat left to allow the water to evaporate from the surface of the can and prevent rusting.