Part 18

North of the Cathedral is the more than usually unlovely district of Port Dundas, where, beside the two canals that give the neighbourhood the rather magnificent name of “Port,” are all manner of warehouses and manufactories. This also is the St. Rollox district. I do not know who St. Rollox was, but his name suggest as canonised boating champion. The place is notable for the tall chimney of Townsend’s chemical works: “St. Rollox’s big stalk,” 489 feet in height, said to be the tallest chimney in the world. In a furious gale it sways like a flagstaff. After an existence of fifty years, the lofty chimney was being repointed in August 1907 when John Goldie, a steeplejack, fell from the summit and was of course killed, every bone in his body being broken.

[Sidenote: “_DIXON’S BLAZES_”]

The south, as well as the north, has its industrial sights. Across the river in Hutchesontown, is the well-known “Dixon’s Blazes”: great ironworks that shed an infernal glow by night over the street and the tramcars that run by. No Glaswegian ever willingly allows the stranger to depart without seeing “Dixon’s Blazes”: but, after all, Middlesbrough can show bigger sights in that kind.

After all, the most instructive views are Glasgow on a Saturday night and the same place (but so changed that you ask yourself, _Can_ it be the same?) on Sunday. At midnight on Saturday, Glasgow is roaring drunk and the neighbourhoods of the Trongate and the Central Station are veritable pandemoniums: but on Sunday those not thoughtful enough to have laid in a private store of alcoholic liquor must needs go thirsty, for Scotland is the land of rigorous Sunday closing. The only way to circumvent this barbarous observance is to arm one’s self with a prescription from a complaisant medical practitioner, indicating the following:

Sp. Vini. Gall. oz. i Aqua Sodæ Effervesc. oz. iv Misce.

Presented at any chemist’s, this results, strange to say, in a preparation not to be distinguished from what is sold on week-days across the public bars as “whiskey and soda.”

It is along the Great Western Road, and in the park at Kelvingrove, that Sunday finds Glasgow at its best: for there you are in the residential districts, and the finest feathers are then assumed for church-parade. It is the picturesque made more picturesque by the stately group of the University buildings, erected between 1866 and 1870.

[Sidenote: _GEORGE SQUARE_]

Glasgow having the reputation of being the “best-governed city in Great Britain,” it behoves the stranger, if not to pry into its great tramways, gas and water and electric-lighting undertakings, and the like municipal activities, at least to see the civic centre of the place. This is George Square. A citizen of Glasgow—I think he was a Lord Provost, or at the very least of it a bailie—has written a history of George Square, from whose pages you may learn how (like Britain arising at Heaven’s command from the azure main) George Square came into being from some pitiful malebolge, at the august will of the city council. It is a story touched to great issues, and if it does not make my heart beat to a quicker rate, that is my own insufficiency.

To a Londoner, who cannot help his vice of comparison, George Square is another, and a smaller, Trafalgar Square. To aid the resemblance and confirm the smallness of the scale, here is a column in the centre. Sir Walter Scott, and not Nelson, it is who in effigy occupies the summit. The thing looks as though, with a little judicious watering and careful culture, it might some day grow to be a Nelson column. All around are other statues: equestrian effigies of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert; and Colin Campbell, Thomas Campbell, Peel, Livingstone, Sir John Moore, Burns, and others on foot. One side of the Square is occupied by the “City Chambers”: what in England we would term the Town Hall. This is a great pile designed by William Young, architect of the new War Office building in London; and in the same classic renaissance style, with the same old pepper-castor pavilions at either end: the usual small ones (for cayenne) in the middle, and the inevitable pediment and indispensable tower. The cost was £540,000, the building was open in 1888, and this, the third or fourth Glasgow Town Hall, each one in succession larger than its forebear, is already too small. So also is the inconvenient General Post Office building, near by, opened in 1876.

In connection with the bronze Valhalla of heroes in George Square, it may be noted that Glasgow is, in general, great in statues and memorials. Probably the most majestic statue of Wellington in existence is that in front of the Exchange, an equestrian effigy by Marochetti. Nelson, on the other hand, is commemorated by a tall obelisk on Glasgow Green.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] Meat and hire.

THE END

INDEX

Abington. ii. 289

Adlington, i. 340, 346, 347-49

Alvaston, i. 281

Anglezarke Moor, ii. 85

Annan, River, ii. 269, 270, 272

Ardwick Green, i. 352

Arthuret, ii. 212, 214

Ashbourne, i. 76, 87, 306, 308-23

Askham Hall, ii. 172

Bamber Bridge, ii. 89

Bamford, Samuel, i. 51-111

Barnet, i. 56, 111, 119-21

Barnet Fair, i. 116-119

Barrow-on-Soar, i. 248, 253

Bass family (brewers), i. 311

Beattock, ii. 270, 273, 279, 284

Bedford, Dukes of, i. 157-64; ii. 292

Belgrave, i. 246, 251

Blackford, ii. 211

Blackwood, ii. 291

Blore, i. 329

Bollin, River, i. 345

Bollington, i. 345

Bolton, ii. 68-75

Bolton-le-Sands, ii. 132

Bonshaw Tower, ii. 263

Boothby, Penelope, i. 316-18

Boroughbridge, ii. 153-54

Bosley, i. 337

Bothwell, ii. 295

Bothwell Bridge, Battle of, ii. 294

Boughton, i. 198

Boughton Green, i. 198

Brailsford, i. 42, 308

Brandreth, Jeremiah, rebel, i. 89, 291-97

Bright, John, i. 22, 199; ii. 42-5

Brixworth, i. 200-3

Brougham, ii. 163-71

Broughton, near Newport Pagnell, i. 166

Buckstone, The, ii. 133-35

Bullock Smithy (Hazel Grove), i. 83, 350-52

Burton-in-Kendal, ii. 133-37

Calton Moor, i. 329

Carleton, ii. 188

Carlisle, i. 14, ii. 188-207, 214

Carlyle, Thomas, ii. 264-68

Carnforth, ii. 132

Carriers, i. 24, 311

Cavendish Bridge, i. 266, 279

Charles Edward, Prince (_see_ Rebellion of 1745).

Chorley, ii. 83, 86-88

Church Langton, i. 217-20

Churnet, River, i. 335

Clayton Green, ii. 88

Clayton-le-Woods, ii. 88

Clifton (near Manchester), ii. 68

Clifton (near Penrith), ii. 158-63

Clipston, i. 211

Clyde, River, ii. 272, 288, 289, 294, 307, 320

Coaches:— Beehive, London and Manchester, i. 41 Carlisle Mail, i. 5-14 Carlisle Post Coach, i. 5 Courier, London and Glasgow, i. 29 Defiance, London and Manchester, i. 32, 34, 37, 41, 42, 308; ii. 65 Derby Dilly, Manchester and Derby, i. 309 Derby Fly, Derby and London, i. 290 Dumfries Coach, ii. 253, 255 Dumfries and Edinburgh Mail, ii. 283 Estafette, London and Manchester, i. 38 Flying Coach (1754), London and Manchester, i. 23 Flying Machine, London and Manchester, i. 24 Glasgow Mail, i. 5-21; ii. 149, 200, 268, 270-79, 286-88 Glasgow and Carlisle Diligence, ii. 271 Glasgow and Edinburgh Stage, i. 3 Handforth, Howe, Glanville & Richardson’s Manchester and London Coach, i. 24 Independent, London and Manchester, i. 33 London Flying Machine (1770) Manchester and London, i. 24 London New and Elegant Diligence, Manchester and London, i. 25 Manchester Mail, London and Manchester, i. 25, 116; ii. 65 Manchester and Derby Mail, i. 310 Manchester Telegraph, London and Manchester, i. 33, 37-9, 41; ii. 66 New Diligence, Manchester and London, i. 25 Peveril of the Peak, London and Manchester, i. 22, 41, 42 Plummer’s Glasgow and London Coach, i. 5 Prince Cobourg, London and Manchester, i. 32 Red Rover, London and Manchester, i. 41, 43 Regulator, London and Manchester, i. 33 Royal Defiance, London and Manchester, i. 33

Coaching, i. 2-51, 125, 289, 309; ii. 129-32, 137, 147-53, 199-202, 230, 253, 255, 270-72, 274-79, 283-88, 296-98

Coaching accidents, i. 14, 42; ii. 147, 283, 285-88

Coaching and Carrying Notabilities:— Ainslie, Jack, ii. 245-47 Anderson, James, ii. 165 Barnes, James, ii. 150 Bass, William, i. 311 Baxendale, Joseph, i. 311 Bird, “Parson,” ii. 149 Bryden, John, ii. 149 Byrns, Jim, i. 50; ii. 150 Campbell, Hugh, ii. 287 Chaplin, William, i. 33, 43 Davies, Tom, i. 47 Douglas, Harry, i. 46 Drydens, the, ii. 149 Eade, George, ii. 155 Goodfellow, John, ii. 283 Hoorn, William, i. 3 Horne, Benjamin Worthy, i. 43 Inns, Samuel, i. 47 Jervis, William, i. 48 Johnson, Isaac, ii. 150 Lacy, H. C., i. 25, 29; ii. 65 MacGeorge, James, ii. 283 Meecher, James, i. 47 Nelson, Robert, i. 41 Nightingale, Robert, ii. 148 Parkin, James, ii. 148 Pickford, Matthew, i. 24, 311 Pooley, John, ii. 151 Ramsay of Barnton, ii. 148 Reed, John, ii. 149 Sherman, Edward, i. 34-38, 43 Skaife, Edward, i. 50 Snow, Bob, i. 46 Teather, John, ii. 147, 199 Telfers, the, ii. 150 Venables, the, i. 49 Walker, John, i. 4. Wall, Joe, i. 46 Waterhouse, William, i. 33, 34

Cockfosters, i. 121

Compton, i. 309

_Convagata_, Stanwix, ii. 205

Cook, Thomas (originator of railway excursions), i. 244

Countess Pillar, ii. 169, 171

Crawford, ii. 270, 288

Crompton, Samuel, inventor, ii. 28, 75-83

Cuckoo Bush, i. 266

Dane, River, i. 336, 337

Denighton Bridge, ii. 290

Derby, i. 75, 89, 281, 285-306

_Derventio_, Derby, i. 285

Derwent, River, i. 285, 304

Devil’s Beef Tub, ii. 272, 282

Dinwoodie Green, ii. 269, 273

Dorfcocker, ii. 84

Douglas Mill, ii. 290

Douglas Water, ii. 290

Dove, River, i. 324, 329

Dunstable, i. 61, 154

Dyrham Park, i. 124

Eakley (or Inckley) Lane, i. 173

Eamont Bridge, ii. 175-79

Eamont River, ii. 171, 175

East Langton, i. 217-20

Ecclefechan, ii. 264-68

Eden, River, ii. 171, 204

Elvanfoot, ii. 269, 272, 273

Elvaston, i. 281-85

End Moor, ii. 137

Ericstane Brae, ii. 269, 271, 273, 284

Esk, River, ii. 210, 214, 217

Evan Water, ii. 273, 284-88

Farleton Knott, ii. 134, 137

Farnworth, ii. 69

Faxton, i. 208-10

Finchley, i. 115

Firwood, ii. 75

Flamstead, i. 153

Flash, i. 342-45

Forton, ii. 107

Foxton Locks, i. 220

Friar’s Wash, i. 152

Galgate, ii. 107

Garstang, ii. 105-7

Gayhurst, i. 170-72

Giant’s Grave, the, ii. 183-85

Glasgow, ii. 296-324

Glen Magna (or Great Glen), i. 222

Gorhambury, i. 151

Goslin Syke, ii. 209

Gotham, i. 262-66

Great Glen (or Glen Magna), i. 222

Gretna Green, i. 14; ii. 210, 218, 222-53

“Gretna Green” Marriages:— Bourbon, Prince Charles Ferdinand, and Penelope Smyth, ii. 249 Deerhurst, Viscount, ii. 248 Drumlanrig, Viscount, and Caroline Clayton, ii. 249 Dundonald, Earl of, and Katharine Barnes, ii. 248 Erskine, Lord Chief Justice, and Sarah Buck, ii. 247 Ibbetson, Captain, and Lady Adela Villiers, ii. 245 Lovell, Captain Francis, and Lady Rose Somerset, ii. 249 Wakefield, Edward Gibbon, and Ellen Turner, ii. 242-44 Westmoreland, Earl of, and Miss Child, ii. 244

Grindley Marsh, i. 352

Gunpowder Plot, i. 171

Hackleton, i. 177

Hackthorpe, ii. 156

Hadley Green, i. 124

Hall-i’-th’-Wood, ii. 28, 76-83

Hamilton, ii. 292-94

Hamps, River, i. 330

Hanging Bridge, i. 324-26, 329

Hardingstone, i. 178

Hassockwell Burn, ii. 272

Hathern, i. 261

Hazel Grove (Bullock Smithy), i. 83, 349-52

Heaton Chapel, near Stockport, i. 352

Heaton Norris, i. 352

Heaviley, i. 352

Helm Wind, the, ii. 146

Heron Syke, ii. 134

Hest Bank, ii. 120, 122, 129, 132

Highgate, i. 55, 115

High Hesket, ii. 187, 244

Hockliffe, i. 3, 61, 155

Hogstye End, i. 165

Hope Green, i. 349

Hopping Hill, i. 210

Horton, i. 174, 176

Horwich, ii. 84

Hucks Brow, ii. 147, 153

Inckley (or Eakley), Lane, i. 173

Inns (mentioned at length):— Bay Horse, near Lancaster, ii. 107 Beattock Inn, ii. 270, 298 Bedford Arms, Woburn, i. 109-11, 163 Bell, Derby, i. 290 Black Bull, Glasgow, ii. 302 Black Swan, Mountsorrel, i. 251 Bottom Inn, near Leek, i. 331 Bridgewater Arms, Manchester, i. 25, 26, 29, 33; ii. 65 Bull and Mouth, St. Martin’s-le-Grand, i. 19, 34, 37, 44 Bull’s Head, Eakley Lane, i. 174 Bull’s Head, Loughborough, i. 260 Bull’s Head, Manchester, ii. 64 Bull’s Head, Salford, ii. 24 Bush, Carlisle, i. 5; ii. 200, 245, 246 Crewe and Harpur’s Arms, Swarkestone, i. 278 Crook, Tweedshaws, ii. 284 Crown, Eamont Bridge, ii. 174 Cuckoo Bush, Gotham, i. 266 Fleur-de-lis, St. Albans, i. 127, 128 George and Dragon, Eakley Lane, i. 174 Gloucester Arms, Penrith, ii. 181 Green Man (Bottom Inn), i. 331 Green Man and Black’s Head, Ashbourne, i. 322 Gretna Hall, ii. 229, 240-42, 245, 249, 251 Gretna Hotel, ii. 229 Greyhound, Shap, ii. 151, 155 Horton Inn, i. 174 Horwich Moorgate, ii. 84 Kedleston Inn, i. 306 King’s Head (now Queen’s Head), Springfield, ii. 233, 236, 238, 240 Lathbury Inn, i. 169 Maxwell Arms, Springfield, ii. 233, 235 New Inn, Hackleton, i. 177 Old Black Bull, Moffat, ii. 281 Old Man and Scythe, Bolton, ii. 71-73 Old Rover’s Return, Manchester, ii. 64 Old White Lion, Finchley, i. 116 Plough, Shap Fell, ii. 153 Red Lion, Hazel Grove, i. 351 Royal Hotel and New Bridgewater Arms, Manchester, i. 29; ii. 65 Saracen’s Head, Glasgow, ii. 298-302 Sark Bar, ii. 228 Seven Stars, Manchester, ii. 24-64 Sun (Poet’s Corner), ii. 64 Swan with Two Necks, Lad Lane, i. 25, 32, 33 Tempest Arms, Horwich Moor, ii. 84 Tontine, Glasgow, ii. 298, 303 Two Lions, Penrith, ii. 182 Welcome into Cumberland, Eamont Bridge, ii. 152, 176, 179 White Lion, Stockport, i. 357 White Swan, Mountsorrel, i. 252

Irk, River, ii. 5

Irlam-o’-th’-Height, ii. 68

Irwell, River, ii. 5, 67, 68

Islington, i. 112

Johnstone Bridge, ii. 270

Kearsley, ii. 69

Kedleston Hall, i. 307

Kegworth, i. 89, 91, 261

Kelmarsh, i. 210

Kendal, ii. 138-45

Kent River, ii. 122, 125, 139

Kent’s Bank, ii. 122, 124

Kentigern, Saint, ii. 308-12

Kibworth Beauchamp, i. 221

King Arthur’s Drinking Cup, ii. 174

King Arthur’s Round Table, ii. 173

Kingsthorpe, i. 196

Kingston-on-Soar, i. 262

Kingstown, ii. 209

Kirk Langley, i. 306

Kirkpatrick, ii. 263

Kirtlebridge, ii. 264

Kirtle Water, ii. 263, 264

Lamport, i. 203-7

Lancaster, ii. 108-20

Lancaster Sands, ii. 122-32

Langtons, the, i. 217-20

Larkhall, ii. 291

Lathbury, i. 169

Leek, i. 85, 323, 331-35

Leicester, i. 71, 95, 223-46

Lesmahagow, ii. 272, 291

Levenshulme, i. 352

Lockerbie, ii. 269, 279

Lockington, i. 266

London Colney, i. 125

Longsight, i. 352

Longtown, ii. 211, 212, 213, 253

Lonsdale, The “Bad Lord,” ii. 157

Loughborough, i. 73, 84, 91, 94, 259-61

Low Hesket, ii. 188

Lowther Castle, ii. 156-58

Lowther River, ii. 171-73

_Luguvallum_, Carlisle, ii. 189, 205

Lune, River, ii. 108, 118

Lyne, River, ii. 210

Macadam, John Loudon, ii. 280

Macaulay, Thomas Babington, i. 246-48

Macclesfield, i. 84, 323, 326, 337-42

Mackworth, i. 306

Maidwell, i. 210

Manchester, ii. 1-68

_Mancunium_, Manchester, ii. 9

Manifold, River, i. 330

Market Harborough, i. 96, 212-17, 254

Markyate Street, i. 61, 153

Mayfield, i. 326

Meikleholmside, ii. 284

Mein Water, ii. 264

Merkland, ii. 263

Milk, River, ii. 269

Milton Bryant, i. 157

Moffat, ii. 269-71, 273, 274, 279-84

Monken Hadley, i. 120, 122

Moore, Thomas (poet), i. 262, 326-9

Moses Gate, ii. 69

Mountsorrel, i. 73, 95, 248-52

Mungo, Saint, ii. 308-12

Myerscough, ii. 105

Naseby, Battle of, i. 211

Nene, River, i. 185

Nethan, River, ii. 291

Newport Pagnell, i. 61, 109, 166-69

Northampton, i. 66, 96, 175, 184-96

Oadby, i. 223

Old-time Travellers (in general), i. 15-22, 51-111 Bamford, Samuel, i. 51-111 Boswell, James, i. 298, 321-23; ii. 301 Bright, John, i. 22, 199 Brougham, Lord, ii. 164 Eldon, Earl of, ii. 226 Granville, Dr., ii. 154, 164 Gray, Thos., ii. 125, 301 Hawker, Col., i. 9; ii. 235, 274 Hume, David, ii. 201 Johnson, Dr., i. 298; ii. 301 Mandeville, Sir John, i. 148-50 Sharpe, Charles Kirkpatrick, i. 16-19 Wesley, Rev. John, i. 142, 168 Wilson, Professor John, i. 6

Old-time Travelling, i. 3-51, 125; ii. 222-53, 274, 298

Osmaston Manor, i. 308

Ouse, River, i. 109, 173

Over Sands, ii. 122-32

Oxendon, i. 212

Peel Towers, ii. 159

Pendlebury, ii. 68

Pendleton, ii. 68

Pennersaughs, ii. 264

Penrith, i. 14; ii. 179-87

Penwortham, ii. 92

“Peterloo,” i. 53, 326; ii. 39-41

Petterill, River, ii. 187

Pickford & Co., i. 310

Piddington, i. 176

Poynton, i. 349

Prestbury, i. 345-47

Preston, i. 84, 87; ii. 83, 90-105

Prince Charles Edward (_see_ Rebellion of 1745).

Pytchley Hunt, the, i. 199

Quakers, the (origin of the name), i. 289

Quarndon, i. 306

Queen’s Cross, near Northampton, i. 99, 178-84

Quorn Hunt, the, i. 212, 253-57

Quorndon, or Quorn, i. 95, 252-59, 306

Railways, i. 43; ii. 55, 107, 122, 124, 130, 132, 200, 228, 270, 285, 288, 304

_Ratæ Coritanorum_, Leicester, i. 225-29

Rebellion of 1715, i. 270; ii. 90, 93-97, 104, 112, 196, 319

Rebellion of 1745, i. 169, 270-78, 287, 319, 324, 334; ii. 21, 98, 103, 144, 155, 160-63, 185, 187, 195-98, 260, 319

Redbourne, i. 111, 152

Ribble, River, ii. 90-92

Richard III., i. 238; ii. 180

Ring Cross, i. 112-15

Rivington Pike, ii. 85, 87

Rothley, i. 95, 246

Rothley Temple, i. 246

Rudyard Lake, i. 335

Rushton Marsh, i. 336

Rushton Spencer, i. 336

Russell family, i. 157-64

St. Albans, i. 56-61, 111, 125-50

Salford, ii. 67

Sark River, ii. 214, 217

Sark Bar, ii. 226-29

Scotforth, ii. 107

Shap, ii. 151, 155

Shap Abbey, ii. 156

Shap Fell, i. 54; ii. 146, 150

Shardlow, i. 281

Skerton, ii. 120

“Slash, Captain,” i. 198

Slyne, ii. 120

Soar, River, i. 244, 248, 262

Solway Moss, ii. 214-18

South Mimms, i. 124

Springfield, ii. 210, 214, 218, 226, 227, 234-36

Standish, Miles, ii. 86-88

Stanton-by-Bridge, i. 267

Stanwix, i. 11; ii. 189, 204-9

Stockport, i. 83, 323, 353-58

Stoke Goldington, i. 62, 99

Swarkestone Bridge, i. 267, 270, 273, 276-78

Swinscoe, or Swinecote, i. 329

“Teetotal,” origin of the word, i. 104

Telford, Thomas, i. 2, 10; ii. 263, 268, 271, 277-79

Thiefside, ii. 187, 188

Tolcross, ii. 296

Trent, River, i. 89, 254, 261, 266-70, 278-81

Turnpike Trusts, ii. 273-78

Tyringham, i. 170

Uddingston, ii. 296

_Verulamium_, St. Albans, i. 130, 150

_Voreda_, Old Penrith, ii. 187

Waggons (Manchester and London):— Bass’s, i. 24 Cooper’s, i. 24 Hulse’s, i. 24 Pickford’s Flying Waggons, i. 24, 311 Washington’s, i. 24 Wood’s, i. 24

Walton-le-Dale, ii. 90

Wamphray, ii. 270, 274

Wanlip, i. 246, 251

Waterfall, i. 330

Waterhouses, i. 330

Wavendon, i. 166

West Linton, ii. 211

Whetstone, i. 56

Whittle-le-Woods, ii. 88

“Wise Men of Gotham,” i. 262-66

Woburn, i. 61, 109, 157, 163-65

Woburn Abbey, i. 157-62

Woburn Sands, i. 165

Wolsey, Cardinal, i. 244

Woodhouse Eaves, i. 253

Yanwath Hall, ii. 170

_Printed and bound by Hazell, Watson & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury_

Transcriber’s Note:

In the paragraph beginning:

Shap is a large village.... (Chapter XX) there is an apparent missing word which has been added by the transcriber.

You approach it over a sheep [missing word] down and across a narrow bridge....

You approach it over a sheep track down and across a narrow bridge....