CHAPTER XVII

PIKE LAKE TO FORT UNION

From Pike Lake the expedition pursued a general course westerly by ten degrees northerly in order to clear the great northeastern bend of the Missouri, and reached Fort Union in thirty-eight days, traversing a distance of five hundred and fifty miles. A compass and odometer line was run with the main party. Pursuing his system of exploring a wide scope of country by means of detached parties, Governor Stevens dispatched Lieutenant Grover with a picked party to survey a separate route south of that of the main body as far as Fort Union, and kept Lander, Tinkham, Dr. Suckley, Lambert, Doty, and Adams, with small parties of the voyageurs, examining the country within forty miles of the route by frequent side trips. The main train crossed the Red River near the town of Breckenridge, the James River some distance north of Jamestown, and skirted the Mouse River near Minot, on the Great Northern Railroad, from which point to Fort Union, and for hundreds of miles beyond, that railroad follows Governor Stevens's route. It is characteristic of the governor that in sending officers on the detached trips he always furnished them the best men and animals of the party, frequently allowing them to select them themselves. On July 12 he overstrained himself in his exertions to prevent a herd of buffalo from stampeding the train, and the old rupture, which had given him so much trouble in Mexico, broke out afresh, and obliged him to ride in an ambulance for many hundreds of miles. But his spirit and energy were no-wise quelled by this grievous physical disability. The graphic descriptions of the country, the incidents of the march, the encounter with countless herds of buffalo, and the meetings with the Red River hunters and Assiniboine Indians are given in the final report with a fullness of detail which cannot be attempted here, but the following extracts will give a fair idea of this stage of the exploration:--

June 24. I directed Lieutenant Grover to select a party of twenty picked men, twenty-six mules, three horses, and twenty-five days' provisions, including an ox, with which to go forward on the Dead Colt Hillock line. In thus giving to Lieutenant Grover his own selection of animals and men, my purpose was to make him in the highest degree effective in the means at his disposal, and to demonstrate by the success of his undertaking the entire feasibility of operating in detached parties. Messrs. Lander and Tinkham moved forward this afternoon to Chippewa River.

On counting rations, it was found that for the main party there was a supply for twenty days, while it might take forty-five to reach Fort Union. But with the eight oxen in the carts, and the known abundance of game, I feared no scarcity. The men showed some anxiety, and talked of a strike, but, seeing the confidence of the officers, abandoned any open demonstration. I had ordered a reducing of rations whenever the quantity of game would justify it, and henceforward I gave the most particular attention to it, so that, although we did not reach the Yellowstone for thirty-eight days, there was at no time a scarcity of provisions.

June 25. To-day the expedition may be considered fairly under way. Lieutenant Grover started at 7.30 A.M. The main party, under my own direction, moved forward at about the same time. In ten miles reached the Chippewa River. The india-rubber boats did good service, carrying over each time more than half a wagon-load. The whole train was all well encamped two miles further on at a fine lake by sunset.

June 26. The main party moved to-day to the camp of Mr. Tinkham of last night, and the whole command was over the river and in camp by six o'clock. As we were now approaching the Indian country, I systematized all the arrangements of camp and guards, and the details of duty on the march. The dragoons were distributed as follows: two for the pack-train; two with a led horse each for reconnoitring duty; two to strike and pitch tents; two to catch fish; two with the howitzer; Sergeant Lindner and seven men with the main column. The sergeant was, moreover, charged with the duty of laying out the encampment under my direction. For the care of the camp, an officer of the guard, who also served as officer of the day, two non-commissioned officers, and six privates were detailed.

Cook-fires to be made at two A.M.; the cooks and teamsters called at three, and the animals to be put in good grass; reveille to be sounded at four, and all the officers to be called by name; the whole camp to breakfast about four, and the teamsters immediately to commence harnessing up; tents struck by half past four, and camp in motion by five; the sentinels instructed to fire upon any prowling Indians.

June 27. Camp roused at four A.M. While at breakfast, Lieutenant Moffett gave me notice that we had but four minutes left to eat in, and, as we failed to get through, he had the tents struck over our heads. The train moved at five o'clock. About eight miles from camp passed Elbow Lake, fourteen miles reached Rabbit River, followed the stream to where it empties into Bell's Lake, and, going along the beach through water eight inches deep with a pebbly bottom, we found a good crossing, though a ridge has to be ascended before getting upon the plain where our camp is placed. The grass is most excellent, and the animals, accustomed to each other, are visibly improving.

Tuesday, June 28. At half past ten A.M. the advance had crossed Rabbit River, fifteen miles from camp, and halted until the arrival of the main train. Leaving the train to rest, the advance started at two. In three miles met Mr. Lander, whose camp was with Mr. Tinkham's, and went into camp at five on the Bois de Sioux, and were joined by the whole party at nine o'clock, after a march of twenty-seven miles over a country that had been invariably reported the very worst of the whole route. Our animals, though somewhat tired, immediately went to feeding. There were some soft places between the Rabbit River and the Bois de Sioux, in which the animals were mired and wagons stalled; but we were agreeably disappointed in having comparatively a very comfortable day's journey.

Numerous large catfish were caught this afternoon, some weighing from twelve to twenty pounds. At half past eleven P.M. we sat down to a supper of ducks, catfish, and coffee, and all the men were in fine spirits. The Bois de Sioux had been a great point to reach,--the end of bad roads and the commencement of the buffalo country. Here we may take a general review of the country since leaving St. Paul.

Between Camp Pierce and Sauk Rapids, seventy-nine miles, the road passes through beautiful prairies and oak openings, with occasional meadows, wet at this early season, and, at some distance to the right, groves of tamarack, varying the landscape with their light and feathery foliage.

From the crossing at Sauk Rapids to Lightning Lake most of the country is rolling prairie, with the wooded banks of Sauk River on the south, and numerous small ponds and lakes with trees on their banks, abundant and excellent pasture, and swarms of water-fowl, supplying plenty of fresh provisions.

A similar delightful country continues to the Bois de Sioux River, with some decrease in the amount of timber, until the banks of that river are reached.

After leaving Lightning Lake the country seems to change its character; no longer a flat, undiversified surface, or with gentle undulations scarcely attracting notice, it has gradually changed to a heavy, rolling prairie, and at White Bear Lake becomes broken up into hills, valleys, and basins. Boulders and smaller stones are numerous.

This whole dividing ridge, then, separating the waters of the Mississippi from those of the Red River, which flow into Hudson Bay, is not the lofty range of mountains which might be supposed to separate the sources of two such great bodies of water flowing in opposite directions and to outlets so widely distant, but is a gently undulating and exceedingly rich prairie country, abundantly wooded and watered, having a width of one hundred miles, and an elevation not exceeding six hundred feet above the river and about sixteen hundred above the sea. There is a very slight rise in the general level in going westward, the Bois de Sioux being at the crossing only thirty-one feet higher than the Mississippi at Sauk Rapids. Undulating and level prairies, skirted by woods of various growth, and clothed everywhere with rich verdure; numerous and rapid streams, with innumerable small but limpid lakes, frequented by multitudes of wild fowl, most conspicuous among which appears the stately swan,--these, in ever-recurring succession, make up the panorama of this extensive district, which may be said to be everywhere fertile, beautiful, and inviting.

The most remarkable features of this region are the intervals of level prairie, especially that near the bend of the branches of Red River, where the horizon is as unbroken as that of a calm sea. Nor are other points of resemblance wanting: the long grass, which in such places is unusually rank, bending gracefully to the passing breeze as it sweeps along the plain, gives the idea of waves (as indeed they are); and the solitary horseman on the horizon is so indistinctly seen as to complete the picture by the suggestion of a sail, raising the first feelings of novelty to a character of wonder and delight. The flowing outlines of the rolling prairies are broken only by the small lakes and patches of timber, which relieve them of monotony and enhance their beauty; and though marshes and sloughs occur, they are too small and infrequent to affect the generally attractive character of the country. The elevation of the rolling prairie is generally so uniform that even the summits between streams flowing in opposite directions exhibit no peculiar features to distinguish them from the ordinary valley slopes.

Wednesday, June 29. The advance parties crossed the river before seven o'clock, but the train was not started till eleven, so as to give the animals rest. The ford, very good for a small train, became very muddy towards the last, and though we unloaded all the wagons and carried the loads over in boats, the wagons and animals were badly stalled at the edges and on the soft and steep banks of the river. The country from the Bois de Sioux to the Wild Rice River is a broad, level prairie, covered with luxuriant grass eighteen inches high; the distance eleven miles, with occasional sloughs. The heat to-day was excessive, and the mosquitoes very annoying to men and animals. At four o'clock, profiting by our experience in crossing the Bois de Sioux, I sent Mr. Lander with a select force of axemen to cut timber to bridge the Wild Rice. The train came up slowly, the last wagons not reaching camp till midnight.

Thursday, June 30. Part of the men were employed in carefully currying and washing the animals, and in catching fish; the remainder were detailed to build the bridge, which was completed by one P.M. It was made of heavy logs, filled in with cut willow-brush and mown grass. Moved at two o'clock; in three miles came to a small creek, which was quite marshy, and caused delay to cross. Moving a mile and a half farther we again struck the same stream, and encamped at half past four P.M. During our march we encountered a very severe storm, accompanied with thunder and lightning. Boutineau brought in an elk, which furnished about two pounds of excellent fresh meat to each man, and was much enjoyed. Kendall and the two Boulieaus overtook us to-day, bringing supplies and five Indian ponies.

July 1. I determined to push forward with the engineer party to the Sheyenne, and, if I found it necessary, have it bridged. Smooth prairie extended all the way, road good, and the distance twenty-six and a half miles. A very severe thunderstorm occurred this morning, lasting an hour, and wetting us thoroughly. At eleven A.M. we met the train of the Red River traders, and visited their camp, six miles distant. We were very hospitably received, purchased some pemmican, common moccasins, and articles of dress worked with porcupine quills. Bought also some carts and oxen, being very deficient in transportation.

The main train only proceeded thirteen miles, and I returned to them about three P.M., accompanied by Kittson, Father Delacour, Roulet, and Cavilaer. Kittson and Roulet were members of the territorial legislature from Pembina; Cavilaer, the collector of customs; and Delacour is a very clever, shrewd priest. They are on their annual trip to St. Paul with robes, skins, pemmican, and dried meat of the buffalo, collected by trading with the half-breeds of the Red River settlements. We found that they had bridged the Sheyenne, saving us considerable trouble and delay. Their company proved very agreeable, and we were glad that a heavy thunderstorm coming on obliged them to be our guests for the night.

July 2. Struck camp at seven o'clock and parted with our new friends, sending back with them Strobel and two teamsters, who proved inefficient. The whole train crossed the Sheyenne bridge safely by noon, and camped on the other side. We had apprehended that possibly the heavy rain of last night would swell the river and carry away the bridge, but hurrying up the wagons, we made the crossing just before the water had risen sufficiently to flow over the bridge. I called this camp McClelland, intending to halt here over Sunday and make up dispatches for Washington. I sent Lander and Tinkham to reconnoitre both up and down the river.

July 3, Sunday. Lander came back from his reconnoissance, having been as far south as Dead Colt Hillock. He met with a singular adventure, which afforded us a great deal of amusement. Riding along with his four voyageurs, whom he used to call his "men of iron," at some distance ahead they saw a skunk moving leisurely through the grass, with tail erect and defying their approach. Lander leveled his glass at it, and, satisfying himself that it was an Indian watching their movements and trying to hide himself, gave the order for his gallant band to "charge." They did charge, and at the same time firing their revolvers, the poor skunk fell, riddled with balls and weltering in his blood; when coming up, they discovered the extent of their bold exploit. Joking in camp is one of the pastimes to relieve the annoyances of the march, and every little thing is seized upon to feed the disposition.

Fourth of July. The train started at six A.M. I remained behind to get off a mail. Started about ten and followed the Red River trail some twelve miles, when we left it altogether. Crossed Maple River, and camped on its banks. About dusk we raised the American flag, made of red and white shirts, contributed by the party and sewed together by Boulieau. As it went up, the assembled command gave it three hearty cheers, and then indulged in some refreshments in honor of the day, ending the evening with songs and story-telling.

July 5. Traveled twenty miles over a high, firm, and almost level prairie, camping on a small branch of Maple River without any wood near it. The pack-train requiring more attention and care of the animals than has been given by the man in charge, who does not take sufficient pains with the disabled animals, I to-day directed Mr. Kendall to oversee them and have them properly attended to.

July 6. Went twenty miles farther, making a noon halt of two hours, when Mr. Tinkham returned from a long and rapid reconnoissance ahead. Prairie more rolling, but road good. A high butte to the left of our course enabled me to get a fine view of the surrounding country. Two Indians were seen by Boutineau, who was out after buffalo, which he did not find; but abundance of ducks continue to supply the camp with fresh meat.

July 7. About 8.30 we struck the Sheyenne six miles from camp, and rested an hour. Keeping the Sheyenne on our left, we moved forward ten miles and camped about a mile and a half from the river on the banks of a fine lake. To-day Le Frambois and Menoc killed an old buffalo bull, and also brought in some dozen geese. Several of the messes supplied themselves with frogs, which have been most abundant on our march for the past two days. The whole command took supper off of buffalo, and the meat, though old and tough, tasted very good, and saved us an ox which had been destined for the slaughter. Several antelopes and wolves were seen to-day.

July 8. Started this morning at 6.30, and arrived at the crossing of the Sheyenne River after a march of fifteen miles. Buttes in considerable number are seen ahead, among which the Horse Butte and the Butte Micheau are plainly visible. Mr. Tinkham, Paul, and Henry were out again to-day, making a reconnoissance on the Sheyenne. We went into camp about one o'clock on the east and south side of the Sheyenne, and a party was at once detailed to cut wood and prepare charcoal. The magnetic tent was put up, and the astronomical and meteorological parties went immediately to work. I called our camp Camp Guthrie, in honor of the Secretary of the Treasury, and determined to remain here all day to-morrow.

Boutineau and Henry Boulieau went out this afternoon, and returned with the choice pieces of a fine, fat, young buffalo bull, and we made a delightful meal, around the fire, of the ribs, marrow-bones, etc., cooked hunter's fashion. Towards evening, on the coteau on the other side of the river, a herd of some twenty elks made their appearance. Numerous wolves were also seen, which, during the night, kept up a constant howling. We planted flags on high hills in the vicinity as signals to Lander, who may follow the Sheyenne River to find our crossing-place.

July 9. An accurate return was made of the provisions on hand, so as to regulate its weekly distribution. Our flour is fast diminishing, and the issue was reduced to half a pound per day to each man. This state of affairs caused considerable grumbling in camp. We are fast approaching the buffalo country, and then shall be expected to do with much less. About 2.30 P.M. the main train under Mr. Osgood crossed the river, and moved forward to a good camping-place. The astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological parties, with the detail of three men attending to the coal-pit, and Mr. Evans and myself, remained at Camp Guthrie, intending to join them before they moved in the morning.

July 10. After partaking of a cup of coffee at three o'clock, our little train, consisting of an ambulance and spring wagon with a cart loaded with charcoal, had crossed the Sheyenne by sunrise. About seven o'clock we reached the main train, encamped some seven miles off. The train was preparing to move, and soon after we came up it started; at eight o'clock we followed and passed them. About five miles from camp we ascended to the top of a high hill, and for a great distance ahead every square mile seemed to have a herd of buffalo on it. Their number was variously estimated by the members of the party, some as high as half a million. I do not think it is any exaggeration to set it down at 200,000. I had heard of the myriads of these animals inhabiting these plains, but I could not realize the truth of these accounts till to-day, when they surpassed anything I could have imagined from the accounts which I had received.

The timber bordering on Lake Jessie was distinctly visible ahead, and between us and it were countless herds of buffalo, through which we were compelled to pass. The train moved on till eleven o'clock, when we all halted, drew up in line, and picketed the loose animals. Six of the hunters, Boutineau, Menoc, Le Frambois, the two Boulieaus, and Rummell, were mounted upon the best horses in the command, some of which were specially reserved, and rode off in fine style, keeping together till ready to dash in among the herd. The immense sea of flesh remained quiet until their approach, and then, separating, they rode in among them, selected the fat cows, and, riding around until the proper time to do execution, the quick succession of shots announced the fact that our supplies of meat were fast being added to. In less than an hour a wagon was called into requisition to collect the choice pieces of nine buffalo cows. While we were resting, several small bands came within firing distance of our train. One or two dragoons on foot gave one a chase, but the buffalo, of course, distanced them. The most amusing scene was the dog Zack, of the dragoon detachment, dashing into a whole herd, and following them a considerable distance. Paul Boulieau and Rummell were both thrown by their horses stumbling in one of the numerous holes with which the prairie abounds. They were considerably, though not seriously, hurt.

We arrived at Lake Jessie at three P.M., the bluff shore on which we encamped being sixty-four feet above the level of the lake. The water of Lake Jessie is considerably saline in its character; but about three quarters of a mile from camp, an excellent spring of good, fresh water was found by Henry Boulieau and myself while out on a reconnoitring trip.

Between one and two o'clock at night a herd of buffalo approached our camp, and it required all the exertions of the guard, assisted by many of the men, to prevent an entire stampede of all our animals. As it was, some got loose, though none were lost. The buffalo were followed a considerable distance, and some ten or a dozen shots were fired before the animals without were entirely driven off.

July 11. Having proceeded about four miles, a small band of buffalo started off ahead of us. Le Frambois's horse and four loose mules near the head of the column started in pursuit, the horse taking the lead. Boutineau, Le Frambois, Menoc, Guy, Lindner, and Paul Boulieau, all well mounted, gave chase in hopes of recovering them. By this time they had mixed up in the herd, and, though they were followed some twelve or fifteen miles, all efforts to secure them were unavailing. About a mile farther we encountered a very severe slough, the approach to which was marked by a very great curiosity in the form of a buffalo trail; at least 100,000 must have crossed here by the footprints and marks visible, and I determined on crossing the slough at the same point which the instinct of these animals had selected.

July 12. In company with Tinkham and some of the guides, I started from camp this morning at five o'clock, designing to be in advance of the train some miles, to reconnoitre and pick out a good road, our route lying over high hills.

At about eight o'clock I sent off Mr. Tinkham, accompanied by the two Boulieaus, well mounted, with instructions to go southward, determining the position of the headwaters of Bald Hillock Creek, and thus connecting his work with Mr. Lander's reconnoissance; thence westward in a line nearly parallel with our route of to-day, making a reconnoissance of the tributaries of the Jacques River (James), leaving it to his discretion whether to join our camp to-night or the next day. By this we would secure the reconnoissance of a belt of country forty miles wide, lying between the Sheyenne and Jacques (James) rivers.

About eleven miles from camp we crossed a deep slough. About a mile farther on we crossed a fine little stream which I took to be Beaver Lodge Creek. Shortly afterwards Boutineau killed a fine buffalo cow, not twenty feet from the compass line. The dispatch and dexterity with which these men cut up buffalo is truly astonishing. Before the cart came up, the animal was entirely butchered, and had only to be thrown into the cart. We moved forward to-day some sixteen miles, and camped on the side of a small lake. We had scarcely got into camp before we were visited by a very severe storm, accompanied by thunder and lightning. Our fires were put out by the rain, and during a temporary cessation were built up again; but it soon came on with increased violence, and our fires were again washed out. About six o'clock two of Mr. Lander's party who left us on the 4th arrived in camp, announcing that Mr. Lander and the rest of his men were only some three or four miles behind, with considerable difficulty bringing in the horses, which were giving out.[3] I dispatched two men with led horses to meet them, and about sundown they came up. We found great difficulty in keeping up our fires so as to get our supper cooked. The rain fell in torrents, our supply of wood was limited, and the buffalo chips were so wet as to be entirely useless.

Towards the close of the day's march I became disabled from my exertions in endeavoring to keep off a herd of buffalo from the train, causing an old wound to break out, which compelled me to ride many hundred miles in the ambulance.

July 13. A very heavy fog this morning delayed our getting off as early as expected, and the hope of Tinkham and his small party joining us made me less hurried about starting. Sixteen miles from camp we struck James River, and crossed over a good ford, from which point I sent Mr. Lander down the river to examine it. Noticing that the river ran very nearly in the course of our compass, we followed it, and again crossing it some five miles above, we encamped. I had a large amount of rushes collected, with a view of building as large a camp-fire as practicable, in order to give notice to Tinkham of our position, he not having returned.

July 14. The missing party not having arrived, three rounds of the howitzer were fired at sunrise, and we started later than usual. It was evident that the whole camp was in a great state of anxiety for the safety of our comrades. Many believed that they had fallen in with Indians, and were deprived of their horses and their lives. Taking everything into consideration, I deemed it best to leave a party at this point so equipped as to combine great energy and force with promptness of movement, so as to be able to overtake the main train without difficulty. Accordingly Mr. Lander was left in charge of the engineer wagon and the wagon belonging to the mountain howitzer, which was made light enough to be moved with ease forty miles in a single day. The howitzer was also left with him for the purpose of making signals. Mr. Doty, with three voyageurs and three men to manage the howitzer, together with the teamsters of the ammunition wagon, remained with Mr. Lander, having abundance of arms, provisions, animals, etc., to supply any emergency. This party was instructed to keep up fires, to fire three rounds with the howitzer at noon and at sunset should the party not arrive, and to communicate with us if any casualty occurred.

A party of four brave and thorough woodsmen, whose knowledge of the prairie life was derived from experience in many expeditions, and who well understood the Indian character, were sent out on the route traveled yesterday, and were directed, after traveling some eight or ten miles, to leave the road, and, going in different directions, to plant signals and scour the country. I felt certain that Mr. Tinkham would be found by these men, if found at all.

The remainder of the train left about seven o'clock, pursuing the same course as yesterday. The first ten miles was over a level plateau. We encamped about 4.30 o'clock at the bank of a fine lake, having made to-day a distance of little over twenty miles. The mosquitoes were exceedingly annoying, flying against the sides of the tents with a noise like the pattering of rain, while the inside was perfectly black with them. Their constant humming drove the men out into the open air, and rendered it almost impossible to sleep.

July 15. At daybreak Broadwell went back to Lander's camp, and I dispatched Osgood and Kendall to a high hill to reconnoitre and look for a new camp. The guides and hunters were also sent on to the Sheyenne to ascertain the distance, and if not too far we would go to it. Being very unwell, I laid by all the morning, and the delay of the train was employed in shoeing the animals, equalizing loads, and arranging them in such a manner as to give about nine hundred pounds to each wagon, and so distributed in bulk that a portion of each wagon could be appropriated to the conveyance of wood and the meat killed each day.

The men are much interested in the labors of Dr. Suckley, the naturalist. It is amusing to see each one making his contribution of snakes, reptiles, birds, bugs, etc.

Near noon Osgood and his party returned, having been to the Sheyenne, where they found no wood, poor grass, and swarms of mosquitoes. Soon after the guides returned, announcing that they had seen a party of Sioux of a thousand lodges, not more than nine miles in advance of us. Boutineau's manner was full of fear, and his public announcement spread alarm through the whole camp. I at once gave orders to make ready, with the intention of visiting their camp; and, calling Boutineau to my tent, asked him whether they were not the Red River hunting party. He assured me indignantly that "he knew half-breeds from Indians, and that they were certainly Sioux."

I suggested that they might be friendly Sioux, who, being engaged in the hunt and hearing of our approach, were coming forward to meet us, to receive the usual presents and gratify their curiosity. He still insisted that they were hostile Sioux, and saw in their presence the explanation of the cause of the absence of the missing party. We were, in his opinion, to be surrounded and cut off.

After dinner, as the alarm was spreading throughout the command, the arms were inspected and ammunition distributed, and orders given to have the train in readiness to move at once. I sent Boutineau, Le Frambois, and Menoc to the top of a high ridge as a lookout, while a flag was prepared to be sent forward if necessary. Word soon came that the country was alive with Indians, who were fast surrounding us; and I sent scouts to hills on the right and left, having the lake to protect our rear. Mounting my horse, I rode to the hill in front, and saw two horsemen rapidly approaching. Our flag-bearers rode forward to meet them, and soon discovered that they were two of the Red River hunters, and that their camp was three miles beyond the Sheyenne. Having discerned our party, they came to invite us to visit them, and expressed their kindly feelings for us. The train, which before this was in motion, arranged in a double line, with the pack and loose animals between, proceeded two miles, where there was better water, and encamped.

The agreeable disappointment established a fine feeling throughout camp; and, half an hour after, Boulieau and Lindner arrived in camp with news of Tinkham's safety, which was received with three cheers. The men to-day showed a good spirit, and although there was naturally some anxiety, they obeyed every order with alacrity. Thus ended the apprehensions of the command concerning Indians.

RED RIVER HUNTERS.

July 16. Awaited the coming up of the back parties, and during the morning Tinkham arrived and was received with nine cheers, being followed soon after by the rest of the rear guard. About two P.M. the whole Red River train came in sight, and as they approached, fired a succession of volleys of firearms as a salute, which we returned with three rounds from the howitzer. The train consisted of 824 carts, about 1200 animals, and 1300 persons, men, women, and children, the whole presenting a very fine appearance.

They encamped near by, and the close yard which they formed presented quite a contrast to the open camp adopted by us. They made a circular or square yard of the carts, placed side by side, with the hubs adjoining, presenting a barrier impassable either to man or beast. The tents or lodges were arranged within at a distance of about twenty feet from the carts, and were of a conical shape, built of poles covered with skins, with an opening at the top for the passage of smoke and for ventilation. They were one hundred and four in number, being occupied generally by two families, averaging about ten persons to the lodge. Skins were spread over the tops of the carts, and underneath many of the train found comfortable lodging-places. The animals were allowed to run loose during the day to feed, but were driven into the corral at dark. Thirty-six of the men were posted as sentinels, remaining on guard all night. We had but twelve guards, three reliefs, not more than four men being on guard at one time.

As our camps were only about two hundred yards apart, there was much visiting between them. I was struck with the good conduct and hospitable kindness of these people. A small band of prairie Chippewa Indians, who accompanied this party, visited our camp during the evening, and entertained us with one of their national dances.

I was much pleased with Governor Wilkie, who is the head of the expedition. He is a man about sixty years of age, of fine appearance and pleasant manners. This party are residents of Pembina and its vicinity. When at home they are engaged in agriculture, raising wheat, corn, potatoes, and barley. The land yields about twenty-five bushels of wheat to the acre, their farms averaging about fifteen acres each. They are industrious and frugal in their habits, and are mostly of the Romish persuasion, leading a virtuous and pious life. They are generally accompanied by their priests, and attend strictly to their devotions, having exercises every Sabbath, on which day they neither march nor hunt.

Their municipal government is of a parochial character, being divided into five parishes, each one presided over by an officer called the captain of the parish. On departing for the hunt, they select a man from the whole number, who is styled governor of the hunt, who takes charge of the party, regulates its movements, acts as referee in all cases where any differences arise between the members in regard to game or other matters, and takes command in case of difficulty with the Indians.

In the early part of the year, till the middle of June, these people work at agriculture, when they set out on their first hunt, leaving some thirty at the settlements in charge of their farms, houses, stock, etc. They start out to the southward in search after buffalo, taking with them their families, carts, and animals. These carts, when loaded, contain about eight hundred pounds, and are used in common. There were three hundred and thirty-six men in the present train, of whom three hundred were hunters. Each hunt, of which there are two every year, continues about two months, the first starting in June, the second about the middle of October. Their carts were already half full, and they expected to return to their homes in the latter part of August. On their first trip the buffalo are hunted for the purpose of procuring pemmican, dried meat, tongues, etc.; the skins, being useless for robes, are dressed for lodge-skins, moccasins, etc. In October the meat is still better and fatter, and they procure a like quantity of dried meat, reserving sufficient for a year's provisions, which is about one half of the whole amount procured; they dispose of the rest at the trading-posts of the Hudson Bay Company. The meat which they carry home finds its way, through the Red River traders of the Fur Company, to Fort Snelling, where it is exchanged for goods, sugar, coffee, etc., at the rate of fifteen cents a pound.

The trade of this country is all in dry-goods, sugar, tea, ammunition, etc. Notes are also issued by the Hudson Bay Company, which are currency among them. Several of these, of the denomination of five shillings, payable at York Factory and bearing the signature of Sir George Simpson, were offered in change to various members of the expedition on purchasing articles. The skins collected in the summer hunt are usually retained by the hunters for their own use, while the robes collected in the fall hunt are a staple of trade with the Fur Company, and also with the Hudson Bay Company, which latter company do a large business in this portion of the country, supplying the settlers with most of their clothes, groceries, etc.

The Red River settlements are made up of a population of half-breeds, traders of the Hudson Bay and Fur Companies, discharged employees of these companies, and Indians, representatives of every nation of Europe,--Scotch, Irish, English, Canadians,--and speaking a jargon made up of these dialects, intermingled with Chippewa and Sioux, patois French being the prevailing tongue. These settlements, started some twenty-five years since, now number, in the vicinity of Pembina Mountain, some four thousand people. The men are generally much finer looking than the women. On the latter depend all the drudgery of camp duties, pitching the tents, attending to animals, cooking, etc. The men dress usually in woolens of various colors. The coat generally worn, called the Hudson Bay coat, has a capote attached to it. The belts are finely knit, of differently colored wool or worsted yarn, and are worn after the manner of sashes. Their powder-horn and shot-bag, attached to bands finely embroidered with beads or worked with porcupine quills, are worn across each shoulder, making an X before and behind. Many also have a tobacco-pouch strung to their sashes, in which is tobacco mixed with kinnickinnick (dried bark of the osier willow scraped fine), a fire-steel, punk, and several flints. Add to these paraphernalia a gun, and a good idea will be formed of the costume of the Red River hunter. The women are industrious, dress in gaudy calicoes, are fond of beads and finery, and are remarkably apt at making bead-work, moccasins, and sewing.

We purchased from the train a supply of pemmican, dried meat, sugar, and other things, some of the men buying moccasins, whips, and other necessaries.

I engaged the services of Alexis Le Bombard, who was in company with this encampment, as guide to the Yellowstone. He came from the Yellowstone this season, and the impression gathered from my interview with him, as well as the representations of others, satisfied me that he will be extremely valuable as a guide.

July 18. Started a few minutes before seven, still following the trail of the Red River train. About eight o'clock we crossed a branch of the Sheyenne, flowing through a deep valley with an extended plateau, bounded on both sides by the high coteau. This stream appears to take its rise in a number of small lakes, and the branch crossed this morning is slightly brackish. Many of the lakes are very salt. These appear to have no outlet, and their saline qualities are accounted for by the fact that they are never washed out, and consequently retain the salt deposits and incrustations. We often notice in this region lakes lying very close to each other, in some cases not more than twenty yards apart; one will be so saline as to be offensive, while the water of the other will be excellent to the taste. We passed to-day a narrow lake, some three miles in length, somewhat resembling a canal. It lay at the foot of a high hill, called the Butte de Morale. Here occurred an engagement between some half-breeds and Sioux, in which one of the former, by the name of Morale, was killed; hence its name. The altitude of this butte, as determined by barometric measurement, is 281.8 feet above the level of the Sheyenne River.

Our way was strewn with the carcasses of many buffaloes killed by the Red River hunting party. At times the air was very much tainted. One of our men reported having ridden through a section of land, a quarter of a mile square, on which were strewn the remains of some three hundred buffaloes. In killing these animals, only the choice bits and hides are taken, and the remainder is left as a prey to wolves, or to rot on the ground.

We had wood to-day, for the first time since leaving Lake Jessie, our fuel in the mean time consisting of greasewood and buffalo chips. The sight of a camp-fire of wood is quite a treat to us. Our camp is beautifully located on a range of hills, nearly surrounded with salt lakes, called the White Wood Lakes. An excellent spring near by furnishes us an abundant supply of cold, fresh water. The odometer line measured to-day was twenty and a half miles. That pursued by the train was probably two miles longer.

July 19. Our course lay over a level country. After proceeding ten miles we crossed a branch of the Sheyenne River, at this time very shallow, but the high banks on each side, together with the grass and deposits, gave evidence of its size during the freshets in the spring. After traveling sixteen and one half miles, we encamped near a small lake in sight of the Maison du Chien, which by bearings and calculation Mr. Tinkham estimated to be about twenty-one miles distant. We passed on the march several salt-marshes abounding with tadpoles, from which the effluvia was very offensive. In some places the ground was covered with deposits of salt to the depth of a quarter of an inch. I am much pleased with our new guide, Le Bombard, who appears to have a very accurate knowledge of the country, although his ideas of distance are not found to be very reliable, which is generally the case with voyageurs.

July 20. Fitted out Lander's party, consisting of himself, Le Frambois, Guy, and Rummell, to make a reconnoissance of Butte Maison du Chien and the Coteau du Missouri, to connect our work with Lieutenant Grover's survey, and join us on the Mouse River in four days. We moved off about half past six, and after traveling five miles reached the first tributary of the Mouse River. The crossing occupied nearly three hours, the water being shoulder deep; half the wagon-loads were removed and carried across in the india-rubber boat. The road was generally very good, passing over a level prairie intersected with lakes and sloughs. About twelve miles from camp we struck a beautiful ridge, resembling a railroad embankment, which lay directly in our compass course; on the top of this the train moved for some miles. We passed around the first coulee of the Mouse River, and after a march of some seventeen miles (odometer measurement, 15.7), encamped on the bank of a small lake.

July 21. Left camp at six A.M. It commenced raining about nine, and lasted an hour or more. About eight miles from camp we saw the tracks of Grover's train in a slough, by which we judged that he had passed some days previous. Soon after this we crossed one of the coulees making into Mouse River. These coulees are very severe on the animals, in some places being very steep. We traveled to-day sixteen miles. Our camp is located on the top of a ridge, which descends into a coulee. We are about one hundred and fifty feet above the valley of Mouse River. There is plenty of timber in the coulee which we are to cross to-morrow in starting.

July 22. Left camp about 6.30 o'clock, and found the crossing of the coulee, about half a mile to our left. On the other side of the coulee we have a fine level plateau ahead. The grand Coteau du Missouri was in sight all day. The depth of the first coulee, as indicated by the barometer, was eighty-two feet below our camp. About four miles out we crossed another severe coulee one hundred and eight feet below the level of our camp. The third coulee was a depression of fifty-four feet, the prairie level being some forty-two feet lower than the level of our last camp.

While making our usual midday halt we were overtaken by two hunters of the Red River train from the vicinity of the Selkirk settlements, who were encamped some eight miles distant. They invited me to visit them, which I determined upon doing, and, placing the train in charge of Dr. Suckley, I gave him directions to move on some eight miles, find a good camping place, and await my return.

July 23. During my absence this morning Dr. Suckley sent Le Bombard and Sergeant Lindner ahead some twelve miles to reconnoitre for a good road for the train; Messrs. Tinkham and Burr went to the Mouse River, and Mr. Moffett, accompanied by Broadwell, went to the Grand Coteau.

I sent Guy and Rummell ahead to Dr. Suckley's camp to apprise him of our coming. At about four o'clock, accompanied by Governor de L'Orme and seven of his principal men, we started towards Dr. Suckley's camp. The whole force of the survey, headed by Dr. Suckley, Sergeant Lindner bearing an American flag, met us about a mile out of camp, and saluted us with a volley from their guns, the mountain howitzer being fired three times. A large tent was put up for the accommodation of our guests, and Governor de L'Orme was invited to share my tent. The guard tent was made use of as a banqueting-room, and several of the men were detailed to collect buffalo chips. The cooks of the various messes assisted each other, and the meal was ready for us about nine o'clock. Tinkham and Burr got in just in time to partake of it with us, as also did Moffett and Broadwell. Mr. Moffett reported the height of the bluff or Coteau range as seven hundred and two feet above the level of Mouse River, and distant twenty miles from it; the height of the hill seven miles from the camp of to-day is two hundred and fifty-six feet.

Seated around the camp-fire, we had a very pleasant conference with our friends. I was very favorably impressed with Governor de L'Orme, and with his opinion in regard to their right to hunt on our territory, they being residents of the country north of our boundary line. They claim the protection of both governments, and the doubt as to the position of the boundary line makes them ignorant as to which one they have the most claim upon. During the hunting season they carry with them their families and their property, and they consider that this territory is open to them, that the right to hunt on it belongs to them, and that their children born during this transit over our soil possess the heritage of American citizens. With but little care, our government could obtain the whole of these people as citizens, thus protecting and building up our frontier, and having in this vicinity always a controlling check upon the Indians. Already is the salutary effect of their presence visible in the entire safety, now, with which single white men and small parties can go through this country. Their virtuous mode of life, their industry and frugality, their adaptation to frontier life, all combine to render them a valuable class of people, and well worthy the attention of our government. They expressed a desire that I should represent these things to the government, and I assured them that I would do so with pleasure. Governor de L'Orme, before retiring to rest, attended to his devotions, and I have been struck with his piety and real goodness, manifested in his conduct and conversation.

July 24. We took a late breakfast this morning, and after parting with our guests we got off at nine A.M. We halted for two hours at noon, during which time the hunters went out and drove a herd of buffalo towards us, and right on the line killed two fine cows. I sent Mr. Tinkham and Paul Boulieau out to the Mouse River, which they followed some distance, as also the River of the Lakes, joining us at camp at eight P.M. We made fifteen miles and a quarter to-day, and the grazing is excellent.

July 25. The express started this morning at six for Fort Union, which I think cannot be over one hundred and fifty miles distant. It consists of Mr. Osgood, Boutineau, Henry Boulieau, and Gray. They are to procure additional wagons or carts at Fort Union, and carry letters to Lieutenants Grover and Donelson. Messrs. Tinkham, Lander, and Paul Boulieau went to-day to make an examination of the Mouse River valley and the River of the Lakes. We had but one coulee to cross, and that was shallow, and offered no impediment. We made to-day twenty-one miles, and found fine grass and excellent water at our camp.

July 26. We started this morning about six o'clock, and, traveling eleven and one half miles, we halted on the bank of a lake. A herd of buffalo approached on the south side of this lake to drink, and crossed within gunshot on the opposite side. Some of our party fired at them, and Le Bombard followed, and killed a fine, fat cow. About seven miles farther on I received a letter from Mr. Osgood by the hands of an Assiniboine Indian. The express party camped last night about ten miles ahead of this place at a large encampment of Assiniboine Indians, numbering some one hundred and fifty lodges and twelve hundred persons. The Indians built for them a lodge in the centre of their camp, and treated them with great hospitality. One of them offered to act as Mr. Osgood's express, and he told them that on my arrival I would have a talk with them and make them some presents. By this note I also learned that Lieutenant Grover had passed some eight miles to the east of our line about four days ago.

July 27. Reaching camp a little after noon, fifteen miles from last night's camp, and about a quarter of a mile from that of the Assiniboines, numbers of Indians rode out to welcome us. We found them to be under the command of the chiefs Blue Thunder and Little Thunder, the latter probably thirty-six years of age. As soon as we were encamped, they informed me that they had reserved a present of skins for me, and were making preparations to have a talk. While dinner was being prepared, many seated themselves in squads around the tents, smoking with the men. One large pipe served a dozen, and the custom adopted is to smoke it a little and pass it to their neighbor, and thus go round. It is the first signal of welcome or friendship after the hand is offered, and they will have no business or other transaction previous to it.

After dinner, accompanied by Dr. Suckley, Messrs. Stanley, Lander, Tinkham, Everett, Evans, Adams, Menoc, with Paul Boulieau, Le Bombard, and Le Frambois as interpreters, I went to their camp, which was irregularly arranged in a sort of corral, consisting of about one hundred and fifty lodges, averaging ten persons to each lodge.

Our approach was hailed by the barking of an immense number of dogs. These dogs are a prominent feature in every Indian camp, being used for drawing lodges, provisions, and property from place to place,--indeed, furnishing the entire transportation of the Indians in winter. A sledge drawn by four dogs will carry two hundred pounds over the snow with great ease. They appeared also to be abundantly supplied with horses, many of which were of good quality. All the women and children turned out of the lodges as we passed, curious to see us. Frames of poles stood around, upon which skins and meat were drying. Yet, in spite of the appearance of plenty, all had a look of poverty, judging from the meagreness of clothing and the length of time it appeared to have been worn, while all appeared very filthy and miserable.

A very large lodge, about fifty feet in diameter, had been erected for our reception in the centre of the inclosure, within which we found seated two circles of chiefs, braves, warriors, and others. At the back of the lodge was arranged a long seat for us, consisting of a pile of skins, which were afterwards presented to me.

There were about eighty persons present, including our own party. During the preparation for the ceremonial reception, there was a general smoking among all present, during which an old man, one of the dignitaries of the tribe, prepared the pipe of reception, only smoked on great occasions. The stem was decked with ribbons of various colors, and when it stood obliquely, feathers would drop down like the wing of a bird. At the lower end of this pipe, where it enters the bowl, was a duck's head. The pipe-stem was supported against a small stick stuck in the ground and crotched at the end. The pipe was turned towards the sun, the invariable practice in such cases. Some sweet grass, platted, was then set on fire and used in the manner of incense, both to the bowl and the stem. After lighting the pipe with the scented grass, it was planted near by in a small hole and burned.

During the smoking the bearer of the pipe shook hands with each member of our party, handing the pipe after this ceremony was over. Then a bowl of water was handed around by a second individual, who also shook hands with each one of us before we drank of the contents of the bowl. Next came the eating of soup, made of buffalo and typsina, a species of turnip, which was rich and greasy but quite palatable. Soon after this ceremony, which completed the reception, an old man advanced to me and shook hands, after which he shook the hand of each member of our company. His appearance was much in his favor, carrying himself with great dignity. With considerable fluency, and at times with many gestures, he addressed me substantially as follows:

"My father, you see us now as we are. We are poor. We have but few blankets and little clothing. The Great Father of Life, who made us and gave us these lands to live upon, made the buffalo and other game to afford us subsistence; their meat is our only food; with their skins we clothe ourselves and build our lodges. They are our only means of life, food, fuel, and clothing. But I fear we shall soon be deprived of these; starvation and cold will destroy us. The buffalo are fast disappearing, and before many years will be destroyed. As the white man advances, our means of life will grow less. We will soon have to seek protection in our poverty from the Great Father, who can so well supply it.

"My father, we hear that a great road is to be made through our country. We do not know what this is for, we do not understand it, but we think it will drive away the buffalo. We like to see our white brothers; we like to give them the hand of friendship; but we know that, as they come, our game goes back. What are we to do?"

After shaking hands with all of us he sat down, and after a short interval of silence the chief, through his interpreter, signified a desire to hear me reply.

I explained that the road to be made from the Mississippi to the Pacific would not injure the Indians, nor deprive them of comforts; that whites would settle along the line, and, though they would drive off the buffalo, they would also supply other articles in place of them. They would receive from the President implements of agriculture, and learn to till the soil, so as to obtain food with less labor than now.

I told them that I would go through the lands of the Blackfeet and other Indians beyond the Yellowstone, carrying the friendly messages of the Great Father, and insisting on peace among all, to secure the safety of the whites. My remarks seemed to make a very favorable impression, and were received with every mark of respect. Their approbation was shown, as each paragraph was interpreted, by the ejaculation "How!" a common word, answering every purpose of salutation, approval, or concurrence.

The present they gave me consisted of thirty-two dressed skins and two robes.

We spent about half an hour in going around among the various lodges, and then returned to our camp, being followed by the whole encampment. During the time we were engaged in inspecting their camp, they became aware of the profession of Dr. Suckley, and there was scarcely a lodge that did not contain some patient for his medical attention. The doctor vaccinated some eight or nine, and through Le Frambois explained its object. It was near dusk when the party arrived at our camp and were arranged to receive their presents. They were seated around in the form of three sides of a square, the open side being opposite the places occupied by our party, the chief, and higher order of the Indians. At each of the four corners was posted a brave or chief. These men never receive a gift, considering it a degradation to receive anything but what their own prowess acquires for them. Their hearts are so good and strong that they scorn to take anything, and self-denial and the power to resist temptation to luxury, or easily acquired property, is a boast with them. On these men in time of peace, when difficulties occur among themselves, the tribe relies, and in time of war they are their leaders to the scene of action. To two old men of the tribe was assigned the duty of making the distribution, and the presents were placed in the centre of the area. During the whole distribution the Indians sat in perfect silence. All seemed satisfied with the articles they received, and not a grumble escaped one of them. After this was over they returned to their camp, the chiefs and braves remaining. At half past eight we had a collation of coffee and bread in our mess tent, and remained till a late hour, smoking and conversing. Soon after this our friends left, myself and the interpreters escorting them outside the sentinels. I was much pleased with these Indians, and they seemed to be very favorably inclined towards the whites, and sincere in their professions of friendship. Nothing to-day of the slightest value has been missed, as far as I can learn.

July 28. It was very late this morning before we started, being occupied in fitting out a party, consisting of Mr. Lander, Dr. Suckley, Mr. Burr, and Corporal Rummell, with instructions to strike the Pierced Rock on Mouse River, and make a careful examination for coal and iron. They were to explore the White Earth River, examine the Coteau du Missouri, and, reaching the 49th parallel, make a detour to the northwest, and arrive at the Yellowstone in some three or four days.

Four days later, on August 1, after a march of eighty miles along the Mouse River and the River of the Lakes, they reached Fort Union. As the broad Missouri and its beautiful bluff banks dotted with timber came into view, the whole party gave three cheers. Lieutenants Donelson and Grover, who had already arrived at the fort, and Mr. Denig, the trader in charge, came out to meet them. The governor mounted his horse, for the first time since the false alarm about the Sioux, and received them with a salute of a volley of small-arms, which was answered by thirteen guns from the fort. News was brought of the death of sapper White, of Donelson's party, by the accidental discharge of a gun in his own hands. Camp was soon pitched, and the whole party assembled at the governor's tent.

"I congratulated them on the zealous performance of their duty, gave them a cordial invitation to go on, and whatever their determination, even should they leave us here, promised them an honorable discharge. All seemed desirous of going on, and not one availed himself of the opportunity to leave the expedition.

"By the great vigilance exercised on the march, the animals had been constantly improving, gaining flesh and becoming cured of sores, so that, though we started from the Mississippi with forty disabled animals, all but one were serviceable on our arrival at Fort Union.

"The whole distance from St. Paul to Fort Union is by odometer measurement 715.5 miles, and we had accomplished it in 55 days, and, excluding halts from time to time, in 48 traveling days. The rate of traveling was therefore about 15 miles a day, most of the way over a country almost unknown, without roads, and with such an imperfect knowledge of the distances to be made between camps as to cramp our movements much more than if the route had been measured and itineraries constructed for our use."

FOOTNOTES:

[3] Lander, it seems, was an inveterate horse-killer, and almost always returned from his trips with his animal badly used up. Buffalo chips are the dried dung frequently used on the plains as a substitute for fuel where there is no wood.