Part 3

_Directions:_ Take the 7 × 7-in. piece of copper and draw a 7-in. circle. With the dividers set 1-1/4 in., using the same centre, describe a circle. This outlines the 2-1/2-in. circle for the base. Drive up this disc as you did the one for the copper bowl on the wood block, making it as deep as possible. In the same way as you flattened the bottom of the copper bowl, flatten the bottom of this piece of work. Place the bowl over the round head stake. With your hammer drive on the outside. This driving with the hammer on the outside decreases the diameter and increases the length. You will remember that the copper bowl was driven up almost entirely by the use of the raising hammer on the _inside_ and finished by work on the outside with the planishing hammer. This vase or jar calls for the shaping hammer. The vase is placed over the round stake and driven into shape by work on the _outside_ with the shaping hammer. When the rough bowl shape is on the round head stake, drive the sides straight, beginning the strokes at the line of the base circle. Repeat till the sides begin to straighten and take the shape of the design. Take it off the round stake and place it on the anvil stake.

When the sides are symmetrical, mark with lead-pencil a line 3/4 of an inch from the top. Work the copper above this line, over toward the centre, until the opening of the vase is about 3-1/2 ins. in diameter. Smooth the work up with a planishing hammer. If the hammer marks made by driving the bowl into shape are carefully done they leave a very beautiful mottled surface of themselves.

_To make the rim for the lid to rest upon:_ Take the 3/8-in. strip of metal. Bend it into a circle small enough to fit on the opening left at the top of the vase. Be careful to have this just to fit, otherwise much filing will have to be done, and in this position filing is almost impossible. Cut it the right length, scrape both ends, and solder. Make it perfectly level so that it lies flat when placed upon the bench. Test it by placing it upon the top of the vase. File the top flat, bind the rim in place. Wash, then place bits of solder all around it and heat it until the solder runs. Cool off in water, file off all rough edges left by the solder, clean and polish.

_Lid:_ Take the 4 × 4-in. piece. Cut a 4-in. circle. Place the bowl upside down upon this disc, draw with a pencil all around the rim on this copper plate. This marks the diameter of the rim on the plate, also the line where the copper should be bent to form the lid to fit the rim.

With the anvil stake in the vise, place the disc against the sharp end of the stake, with the line on the edge. Drive with the raising hammer against the part projecting above the stake. Turn the disc, keeping the circle line on the sharp edge of the stake. Repeat this till the sides are at right angles to the top. Place the lid upside down on a wooden block, drive on the inside, shaping it like the drawing. Make it fit the rim, trim off the rough edges, file up smooth, and polish.

Do not forget constant annealing, for you know hammering always makes the metal hard.

CHALICE

_Material:_ 3 pieces of copper, 6 × 6 ins., No. 20. One piece of round rod copper, 1 in. long. One piece of copper, 12 × 1/4 ins. (for rim). Solder.

_Tools:_ Hard wood block, round head and anvil stakes, combination stake, shears, dividers, planishing hammer, raising hammer, and shaping hammer, files, emery cloth.

_Parts:_ Bowl, stem, base, lid, ornamental top of the lid.

_Directions:_ Make a working drawing (full size) on drawing paper, plan and elevation.

_Bowl:_ Take the 6 × 6-in. piece of copper. Cut out a 6-in. disc. Drive the bowl up as you did the copper bowl. It should be the same shape as the copper bowl. Do not flatten the bottom. The drawing shows that the bottom should be rounding, to fit the stem.

_Stem and base:_ Take another piece of 6 × 6-in. copper. Cut 6-in. disc. With the dividers make a 1-in. circle in the centre of the disc. This inner circle must be beaten up until it becomes the stem. To do this place the disc on the round top stake, with the marked circle touching the edge of the round top. Strike with the raising hammer just above the circle line, turning the disc each time. When you have made one turn of the disc, repeat this twice, hammering just above the part driven up before. Keep repeating this until you have reached within an inch and a half of the outer edge of the disc.

The drawings numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, show the steps in the working up of the copper disc into the stem.

You now have a bell-shaped piece. Anneal the metal and repeat the hammering, beginning at the same place and working up to the same place as before. Anneal whenever the metal seems springy and keep working until the stem is tapered about 3/4 in. at the small end, gradually widening into the vase. Place the bell-like stem on the table and flatten it so that it lies perfectly smooth, with the stem perpendicular to the base. Find the centre of the bowl, describe a 3/4-in. circle. Scrape both the circle and the small end of the stem. Turn the bowl upside down, place the stem end of the base on the bowl, and solder in the usual way.

_To make the lid:_ Take the 6 × 6-in. piece. Cut a 6-in. disc. Find the centre. Drive the centre down by using the small end of the planishing hammer. This makes a cone-shaped centre, with the sides gradually widening to the edge of the lid. The highest point of the cone is one inch above the level of the lid. Place the lid on the table and tap gently on the outside until it lies flat. Take the small 3/8-in. piece of round rod, file a small shaped ornament (to taste) on one end of the rod and a shoulder on the other end. Drill a hole in the cone-shaped part of the lid, push the rod 1/8 in. through this hole and rivet it on the inside.

_Rim:_ Strip of copper, 12 × 1/4 ins. Bend it into a circle just to fit the outside of the lid. Cut off the proper length and solder. Make it perfectly round and perfectly flat. Place the lid on the chalice bowl so that it overlaps a little all around, evenly. Draw a pencil line all around the edge of the bowl on the under side of the lid. This is where the rim is to go. Before soldering, test, by placing the rim on the face of the lid. Any openings seen must be closed by pressing the rim down to the lid. Bind tightly with binding wire, scrape, and solder. File and finish.

VIII

HOW TO MAKE A HAT PIN

By this time you will have many pieces of scrap copper on hand. These should be kept in a small box and used whenever suitable.

_Material:_ A piece No. 20 gauge, 1-1/2 × 1/2 ins., is enough to make the head of a hat pin. The pin part must be of steel, copper is too soft. Buy any cheap hat pin in a dry goods store. (A cent apiece.) Break the glass top or black top and use the pin for the copper head.

_Tools:_ One chasing tool, half moon; shears, dividers, planishing hammer.

_Design:_ Hat pin with hexagonal top (6 sides) 1-1/2 ins. across. With your dividers draw a circle on the piece of copper, having a diameter of 1-1/2 in. With the radius of the circle, mark off the circumference into 6 equal parts. Draw lead-pencil lines from one point to another, just touching the circle at these points. With your shears cut along these straight lines. Now you have a 6-sided piece of copper 1-1/2 ins. across. Place this piece of copper on the flat end of the hard wood block (the grain end of the wood), and make impressions on it with the half moon tool like your designs. This tool you can make yourself. Take a piece of steel, 5/16 in. square or round, heat one end to a red heat and flatten it, like the flat end of a chisel. File the end just flattened blunt and rounding. This end should be hardened to prevent it from wearing rough. To do this heat it to a dark red heat and plunge it into cold water. Place your tool on the upper sides of this plate and drive it with a hammer into the copper, being careful not to drive it through into the wood. If you drive the tool through you will spoil the design and have rough edges. This makes a simple raised or embossed design and is quite easily done.

When this pattern has been stamped in, curve the piece of copper any shape you wish by placing it in the depression in the hard wood block. Place the embossed side down, and with the round end of the planishing hammer, drive with light blows so as not to flatten the design. In this way, you can shape it as you wish. The top could now be soldered right on to the pin itself, but that would not make a strong hat pin. It would be weak and too easily broken from the head. In order to have a strong hat pin we make a little mushroom shaped pin holder which is fastened on the under part of the head of the hat pin and in which the pin itself fits.

HOW TO MAKE THE PIN HOLDER

_Material:_ Copper, No. 24, 3/8 in. square to make the flat disc. Copper No. 24, 3/8 in. length and about 5/16 in. wide to make the cylinder.

With a pair of dividers draw a circle 3/8 in. in diameter. Cut out the circle. Place this little disc on the flat end of the hard wood block and with a punch make a hole 1/8 in. in diameter in the middle of the disc. On the same end of the block, file (using round file) a groove right across the corner, about 1/8 in. deep. Place the small piece of copper (3/4 × 5/16 ins.), over the groove. Take the steel wire belonging to the hat pin and place it on top of the copper and over the groove. With the hammer, strike so as to drive the pin, and at the same time the copper, into the depression. The copper sinks into the groove and the two sides lap up on each side of the pin. Drive the two sides down until they lap around the wire, the edges meeting. This makes a copper cylinder which fits exactly around the wire of the pin. Take the cylinder off, fit it into the holes of the small disc. Wash the two pieces with a borax solution, place a little solder on, and solder the disc to the cylinder. After cooling the piece in water, shape the disc so that it fits the under side of the hat pin top. Polish the end of the wire pin with an emery cloth, also the top of the pin holder and the inside of the hat pin top. Push the wire into the little cylinder so that it comes flush with the disc.

Now the pin is all ready to solder to the head, but there is great difficulty in getting it in straight. In order to do this I make a little device out of copper, which helps me in getting things on straight. Take a piece of copper 1 in. wide and 5 ins. long. Bend each end, one 2 ins. and the other 3/4 in., both in the same direction at right angles. With the shears cut a V-shaped piece in the short end. This little stand is good for soldering any upright piece to a flat piece, when they should be at right angles to each other.

Place the top of the pin on the long leg of the stand and, with the pin in the slot, place in proper position and solder.

HAT PIN HOLDER

Here is a good design for a hat pin holder, a welcome addition to any dresser. The design is very simple and the holder is easily made if one follows out the directions carefully.

_Material:_ Disc 3-1/2 ins. of No. 20 gauge, for the base. One piece of 3/4-in. copper tubing, 4 ins. long for the body. Solder.

_Tools:_ Iron rod, 3/8-in. round, 8 ins. long. Hard wood block. Planishing hammer.

_Directions:_ Bore a 3/4-in. hole one inch deep in the wooden block. Place the 3-1/2-in. disc over this hole and, with the round end of the planishing hammer, drive the centre of the disc into the hole 1/4 in. Be careful not to drive a hole through the copper disc. Turn the piece upside down. Place the iron rod in the vise. Put the bossed end of the disc on the end of the iron rod and flatten the boss down. Shape the base by rounding the edge down all around. See that it lies flat on the table, without rocking.

_Stem:_ All copper tubing should be annealed before any work is done on it. After annealing, place the 3/8-in. rod through the hole of the tube and with the wooden mallet drive down on the tubing, beginning two inches from the end and using the hard wood block for an anvil. This constant driving and turning reduces the copper to any size required. We must make the end of this tubing fit the 3/8-in. rod. The tube must widen toward the other end, which is beaten out. Place it on the small end of the anvil stake. Drive with the raising hammer, turning it all the time. In this way you constantly increase the diameter, making the cup-shaped top like the design. Now the stem and base are ready for soldering. File the ends perfectly smooth and level. Bind in places and solder, as before. The filing, finishing, and polishing must be done as with other copper pieces.

Hat pin holders are usually filled with some soft material. The hat pins are pushed down into this, which helps to keep them in place. Some are covered on the top with a metal disc which has five or six holes bored through, a little larger than the bar of the hat pin. These holes are drilled into the disc and then the disc is soldered on to the top of the holder. The pins cannot fall out with such an arrangement, and they are not likely to gather on one side and tip the holder over.

IX

HOW TO RIVET

Riveting is one of the processes of joining two pieces of metal together without the use of solder. To rivet, you must first punch or bore holes into the metals along the edges to be joined. Place a rivet through these holes, and either with the hand hammer or rivet set, flatten down the projecting end of the rivet, forming a head similar to the head of the rivet itself. Be careful to have the rivet holes just large enough to let the rivet slip in and leave no extra space. If the holes are too large the rivet will bend instead of flattening.

_Use of the rivet set:_ A rivet set is a piece of steel 5 ins. long, 3/4 in. wide and 3/8 in. thick, tapering a little toward the top end. In the large end of this tool, and to one side, is a 1/8-in. hole drilled about 3/8 in. deep; on the other side is a counter-sunk hole about 1/4 in. in diameter and 1/16 in. deep. This hole is used for drawing the rivet up through and closing the openings between the parts to be riveted, previous to flattening the end. (See picture of stove pipe.) The counter-sunk hole is made to shape the head after it is flattened. Tinners use it often for punching holes in thin metal, such as tin and galvanized iron, and it's one of the methods used for punching holes when making or mending stove pipes, and similar shaped pieces.

_To rivet a stove pipe:_ Place the rivet on the stake and put the iron pipe over the rivet about where the hole should be. Tip the pipe so it will rest on the rivet. Tap lightly over the rivet. This will mark the spot where the rivet is to go. Drive down the rivet set over this mark and the rivet will be forced through the pipes into the hole of the rivet set. The hole is made and the rivet placed at the same time. Flatten the projecting end, put the counter-sunk hole on the top of this flattened end, and you can shape it up like a round button.

LARGE SERVING TRAY WITH RIVETED HANDLES

A tray as large as this one is most useful in the home for serving tea, ice cream, etc.

_Material:_ No. 20 copper, 12 × 18 ins. Four pieces of copper, 3-1/2 × 2 ins. Silver wire for rivets 4 × 1/8 in. in diameter.

_Directions:_ Perhaps the easiest and simplest way to make this tray is to get a large block of wood, like the end of a building joist, a little longer and wider than the 18 × 12-in. copper sheet. Out of it make a mould the shape of the body of the tray, by cutting the wood away. This mould is made similar to the one you made when making the round tray. If the mould is made carefully and according to the pattern it is a simple matter to nail the sheet of copper over the depression, and drive it in with a wooden peg and mallet, making it fit every part of the mould. Before this is done it may be necessary to anneal the metal two or three times. Do so as often as you need to, it doesn't matter how often it must be done. When the surface is smooth to the touch, take the metal off the mould, and turn up the edges like the design. File off the outer edges perfectly smooth and rub them down with emery cloth. If your wooden peg has made small dents or flat places, leave them as a finish unless they seem too high or too low. The marks made by any wooden tool usually make a beautiful finish.

_Handles:_ The handles are hollow. They are made by taking one piece of the 3-1/2 × 2-in. and drawing on this the outline of the handle. Repeat this on the four pieces. This makes four halves. With a pair of shears cut along the sides. Cut the rest out with a chisel. Snip the corners. Put four pieces together and place between the jaws of the vise. File into shape. This makes each piece a duplicate of the others. Place each piece of copper on a hard wood block and with the round end of the raising hammer drive into the block, hollowing it out. Make them in pairs so that when the two parts are put together they make the handles hollow on the inside and oval on the outside. File the edges of the handle so that they meet close. Bind, solder, and file and round them up.

_Fastening handles on the tray:_ Saw the two ends along the soldered joints about 3/8 in. Open these out so that they fit over the edge of the tray. Finish the ends off either rounding or square. Now drill a hole through the handle about 3/16 in. from the end. Place them again on the tray just where they should be and mark for the hole to be drilled through the tray.

_Rivets:_ Take a piece of silver wire the size of the hole. Place one end of it on the vise so it will stick up about 1/8 in. above the surface. With the planishing hammer, hammer a small rounded head on the end of the wire. Cut it off 3/8 in. from the head in length. This makes a rivet. You will need four. Place these rivets with the head toward the front part of the tray and fasten the handle on. Polish and finish as you did other pieces of work.

DUTCH BOWL (MADE IN SILVER OR COPPER)

This Dutch bowl looks well made of either silver or copper. It is worked up in the same way as the other bowls described here, the little sawed out handle on the side being an addition which gives to the bowl its Dutch characteristic.

_To make the handles:_ If the bowl is made of copper select a piece of metal thicker than the copper used for the bowl. This piece is 3 × 4 ins. long. Shape it as shown in the sketch. Mark the design and saw it out. Now bend it at right angles about 1/2 in. from the end. Before the corners are squared up, round the handle to fit the shape of the bowl. This is best done on a round iron stake. File into shape, drill three holes, and rivet the handles in place. A soldered handle if desired makes a neater piece of work than one riveted in place. Material used is a piece of 3 × 3 ins. The design is sawed out and shaped as before. However, in place of bending the end down we file the circle to fit the bowl. Clean the parts to be soldered, bind the handle in place, wash with borax. Place bits of solder about the joint, heat, and finish. If this soldering makes the bowl very soft stiffen it by hammering it lightly all over the surface.

A smokers' set makes a very useful birthday gift or Christmas present and is not hard to make. All the principles involved in the making have been worked out in other problems that have been given. The set consists of five pieces: a large tray, a tobacco jar, match safe, cigar box, and ash tray.

_Large tray (copper or brass) oblong:_ This design shows a large oblong tray with handles sawed out of the sheet metal, not riveted as the handles were on the large serving tray. Draw the design for this tray on a sheet of paper. Mark out the handles like those in the picture. Place the pattern on the copper or brass sheet, and cut out the outline according to the drawing. The handles are not sawed out until the tray has been shaped up and finished. This tray is made out of a piece of No. 20 copper or brass, and is 10 × 12 ins. With the dividers make a half-inch line on the four sides of the sheet as shown by the dotted lines in the sketch. Place this sheet in the vise, the dotted line even with the jaws of the vise. With the wooden peg, drive the sides up as you did the small square tray. Drill the holes in the slot and saw out for the hand-holds. File all around and finish.

MATCH SAFE

This design shows a very simple arrangement of a match safe holding a match box and a tray to catch the burnt matches.

_Material:_ Copper or brass--No. 20, 5 × 5 ins., for the tray. No. 20, 1-3/4 × 5 ins., for the holder. No. 24, 1/2 × 3 ins., for the centre piece. No. 20, 1/8 × 5-1/2 ins., for the bar. No. 24, 1-1/2 × 2 ins., for the stem.

This little holder is made up of five parts: base, stem, holder, band, and centre piece for pushing up the matches when the box is pushed down into it.

The base is made by bending all four sides up 1/4 in.; corners are made rounding. The stem piece is bent into a cylinder tapered by wrapping it around a 1/2-in. tapered stick. Solder the edges, when this is done.

The holder itself is made by taking the 1-3/4 × 5-in. strip and bending it up like the shape of a letter U, so that it is a little longer than the match box itself. The band holds the sides in place. All is soldered together, the stem in the base first, then the holder on the stem, etc. Hard solder is used. The little centre piece is bent, placed in position, and soldered with soft solder. Polish and finish.

TOBACCO JAR

This straight-sided jar is made in three pieces. A disc 5 ins. in diameter is needed for the bottom, a cylinder, 5 ins. deep, to fit the disc, and a lid made from a 5-in. disc turned over to fit the outside.

The disc for the bottom is bent up like the base of the tea caddy. Fit the cylindrical piece around this base and solder where the edges meet.

_The lid:_ Cut a disc out of No. 20 copper, 5 ins. in diameter. Find the centre. With the small end of the planishing hammer drive a boss into a hollow wooden block, about 3/4 in. in diameter and 1/2 in. deep. Out of this boss the knob is made in the following way: Take a piece of 5/8-in. square iron and draw about 4 ins. of the end tapered to a 3/8-in. round. Bend this up about 1/4 in. as shown in the sketch. This is the tool that the knob must be shaped upon. Place this tool in the vise and place the hollow of the lid on this tool. With the thin end of the driving hammer work the knob in shape from the outside. (See sketch.) During the working of this metal it should be annealed three or four times so that it will yield to the extreme tension required to make the knob.