Part 30

White, graham and whole wheat are the flours most commonly used in making bread. White _bread_ flour is made from spring wheat, which is richer in gluten than winter wheat and is of a rich cream color.

Winter wheat flour is more suitable for cakes and pastry, and for that reason is called _pastry_ flour.

A blended flour, spring and winter wheat combined, is considered by some the most nearly perfect bread flour.

Graham flour is composed of the whole kernel of the wheat, its bran overcoat and all, ground up together. The bran contains no nutriment and is irritating to some stomachs. Graham flour is nearly always made from winter wheat.

In making whole wheat or entire wheat flour, the bran or fibrous covering of the kernel is removed and the entire nourishing part of the grain is ground. Whole wheat flour is usually made from spring wheat.

Some so-called “whole wheat” flours are simply very fine graham; that is, the bran is all there, but ground very fine.

The best grades of flour are the cheapest as a smaller quantity is required for the same amount of liquid. Good flour also requires less kneading.

Perhaps the greatest deception has been practised in “gluten” flours. Some which have been advertised as pure gluten have been found to contain as high as 63 and 75 per cent. of starch. A pure gluten flour for making yeast bread is out of the question.

Flour made from new wheat will for a time improve with age, but after a certain period it begins to deteriorate; so it is not best to lay in a too large supply at once.

Keep flour in a warm, dry place, as all bread, cakes and pastry are lighter made from dry flour.

“For use in bread-making the superfine white flour is not the best. Its use is neither healthful nor economical. Fine flour bread is lacking in nutritive elements to be found in bread made from the whole wheat. It is a frequent cause of constipation and other unhealthful conditions.”

BREAD--YEAST

Suggestions

Bread should not be set over night when there is the least possibility of its becoming light enough to fall before it can be attended to in the morning.

Dough mixed stiff at first requires double the quantity of yeast of that started with a sponge, but as this method has several advantages it is becoming the favorite. Beat the batter very thoroughly for either method, as that has much to do with the lightness of the bread.

Keep bread at all stages at as even a temperature as possible and away from draughts of air. A large pasteboard box is an excellent thing to set it into.

A moist atmosphere is most favorable for raising bread.

Keep bread covered close to prevent a crust from forming over the top. Paper is better than cloth to exclude the air.

To hasten the rising of bread, use a larger quantity of yeast rather than a higher temperature. Above 90 degrees the bacteria which were in the flour or yeast may begin to grow and the bread will be sour. Given more time and raised at a lower temperature, bread will be sweeter and of a finer texture.

Attend to bread at every stage as soon as light, before it begins to fall; exercise especial care in this respect with compressed yeast as it loses its life very quickly after becoming light.

Bread will rise better in a deep vessel, such as a pail or a stone crock, than in a broad flat pan. Always oil the dishes used for raising it in.

Each time that bread rises it loses some of its sweetness and nutritive value, so the fewer times it is allowed to rise the better, if light enough to be digestible.

Some cooks prefer flour that has been delicately browned for setting the sponge for bread.

A good bread kneader is one of the best investments in cooking utensils. It saves time and strength and makes better bread.

“In the making of raised or yeast bread, milk should not be used in place of water. The use of milk is an additional expense and it makes the bread much less wholesome. Milk bread does not keep sweet so long after baking as does that made with water and it ferments more readily in the stomach.”

In cakes and crusts where milk is used with yeast, sour milk may be substituted for sweet with the same results.

To aid fermentation, a little sugar may be used in starting bread, but not enough to cover the sweet taste of the flour.

At a great altitude, bread rises very quickly; and requires less yeast.

Do not allow bread to get over light, even if it does not become sour; for the sweet taste will be destroyed, and if in the loaf, it will fall in the oven.

Whole wheat and graham bread will be lighter if ⅓ white flour is used; and if white flour alone is used for the sponge the bread will not be so apt to sour.

Whole wheat and graham bread need to be mixed stiffer than white and must not be allowed to become very light or they will fall in the oven and have a hollow place in the loaf.

Bread from whole wheat and graham flour requires slower and longer baking.

Whole wheat, graham or rye bread may be steamed 3 hours and baked slowly ½ hr., sometimes.

Salt delays fermentation, so when bread is started with a sponge the salt should not be added until the sponge is light, and it may be worked in at the end of the first rising of the mass of dough.

When a large quantity of bread is made at a time, a smaller proportion of yeast is required. Stir soft yeast well before using from it. Do not let the jar of yeast stand in a warm kitchen for a few minutes even.

It is impossible to give an exact rule for the proportion of flour to liquid in bread as different brands of flour vary and the same brand may be dryer or more moist at different times; but usually not less than three times as much flour as of liquid is required, and not much more.

Near the sea level bread dough may be mixed as soft as it can be well handled; but as the altitude increases the stiffness of the dough should increase.

Flour must be warm when added to bread at any stage.

Do not add any flour to bread after the last rising before putting it into the tins, “as all the flour in it is, in a fermentative sense, cooked and the addition of raw flour injures its quality.”--_Charles Cristodoro._ Oil the board and your hands instead.

“Bread should be light and sweet, not the least taint of sourness should be tolerated. The loaves should be small and so thoroughly baked that so far as possible, the yeast germs shall be destroyed. When hot or new, raised bread of any kind is difficult of digestion. _It should never appear on the table._”

The loaves should be baked in separate tins, brick shaped ones being best. If the loaf feels soft on the sides when removed from the tin, return it to the oven for it is not done. When done, leave loaves where the air can circulate around them until cool.

Keep bread in tin or stone receptacles, never in wood; wash them often in warm soapsuds and scald thoroughly.

Never cover bread in the box with a cloth, if anything is required, use paper. Cloth causes a musty taste and smell.

Do not allow crumbs or bits of bread to collect in the box or jar.

To freshen stale bread or buns, place them in a hot oven above a pan of boiling water; or put into one tin and cover with another and leave 10-30 m. according to size of loaf and heat of oven.

Rolls are sometimes dipped in milk or water and heated in the oven; or, put into a paper sack and left in the oven for 10 m.

=White Bread=

2-4 tablespns. liquid yeast, or 1 cake compressed yeast warm water to make 1 qt. of liquid 2 tablespns. oil 1 teaspn. sugar 1 teaspn. salt 3-3½ qts. flour

Put yeast in a quart measure (compressed yeast will have been dissolved according to directions) and fill the measure with warm water. Turn into warm mixing bowl, add oil, sugar and salt (sugar may be omitted), mingle, add flour until a drop batter is formed; beat vigorously for 5 m., then continue to add flour. When too stiff to stir, knead on molding board until dough is smooth and does not stick to the board by deft handling, place in a well oiled deep dish, cover well and let stand in a moderately warm place until light. It may now be folded down and turned over and allowed to come up half way again, or be put at once into the tins.

Allow bread to rise in tins to a little more than double its bulk (experience will do more for one in determining the proper degree of lightness than any recipe), and put into a moderate oven with spaces between the pans; when well risen and moderately browned, lower the temperature of the oven a little and finish baking. Cover with asbestos sheets or paper if bread is in danger of becoming too brown. ¾-1 hr. will be required for baking a medium sized loaf.

=Fruit Bread=

Use double the quantity of oil and from ¼-½ cup of sugar in the recipe for white bread, add 2 large cups of seedless raisins or 1 cup each of raisins and currants. Dates or figs may be used when preferred.

=Nut Bread=

Use 2 cups coarse chopped nuts instead of fruit, in fruit bread recipe. Brown sugar may be used instead of white, or sugar may be omitted altogether.

=Irish Bread=

Brown sugar, raisins, currants and caraway seeds in fruit bread recipe.

=Whole Wheat and Graham Bread=

Use ⅓ white flour and ⅔ whole wheat or graham instead of all white flour in the recipe for white bread. These breads require to be kneaded a little stiffer than white flour bread to prevent their being coarse grained and falling in the oven; also, care must be taken that they do not get too light before baking. It is a mistake to put molasses or sugar into graham bread as it conceals the sweet nutty flavor of the flour.

=Zwieback Bread=

1 pt. water ½ teaspn. salt 4 tablespns. yeast or 1 cake compressed yeast ⅓-½ cup corn meal white flour to knead

It is better not to use oil in zwieback bread.

=New York “Home Made” Bread=

2-4 tablespns. liquid yeast or 1 cake compressed yeast, warm water to make 1 qt., white flour for drop batter; beat well. When light, add 1 cup corn meal gruel (to make, use 1 tablespn. of granular meal to each cup of boiling water and cook 2 hrs.), 1¼ teaspn. salt, and flour for smooth dough. Let rise in bulk once, then put into pans. A baker gave me this idea. He said he had a great run on it once in New York City under the name of “Home Made” bread. The bread is very moist and sweet.

=Oatmeal Bread. Mrs. Cobb, Bay City=

¾ cup oatmeal or 1 cup (pressed down) of rolled oats 1 qt. water 2 tablespns. oil ¼ cup sugar 2-4 tablespns. yeast or 1 cake compressed yeast 1 teaspn. salt white flour

Cook oats in water as for porridge, 1½-3 hrs., cool to lukewarm, add sugar, oil, yeast, and flour for sponge; beat, let rise, add salt, and flour for soft dough; when risen form into loaves and when moderately light bake from ¾-1 hr. Sugar need not be used.

=★ Rye Bread=

1 pt. water 1 tablespn. oil ¾ teaspn. salt 3 tablespns. liquid yeast 3 cups rye meal, not flour 4½-5 cups white flour or enough to make a very stiff dough

Let rise once in bulk and put into tins; when light, bake in moderate oven. Add caraway seeds when liked.

=★ Rice Bread=

Cook 2 cups of rice in 2 qts. of water until tender; cool to lukewarm; add 4-6 tablespns. yeast with water to make 1 pt., 1½ teaspn. salt and 4-5 cups white flour, or enough to make a very stiff dough.

=★ Crisp Bread=

_Sponge_:--

1 cup water 1 tablespn. oil ⅓ cake yeast 1½-1¾ cup bread flour

When light, add 1 cup fine dry bread crumbs, knead well, use crumbs to roll the dough, roll ¼ in. thick, cut into large rings, let rise and bake in moderate oven until crisp.

Crumbs may be kneaded into bread dough and finished the same.

=Potato Ball Bread=

2 cups mashed potato 1 cake dry yeast 1 teaspn. salt 2 teaspns. sugar

Add yeast cake powdered fine, to the potato when lukewarm, and the salt and sugar when cold; form into a ball, cover and keep in cool place 2 or 3 days. When ready to bake, add 2 cups mashed potato mixed with 1 teaspn. salt and 2 of sugar to the ball. Make a ball of half the mixture and add enough warm water to the remainder to make 2 qts. or more. Add warm flour to knead, let rise in bulk once or twice before putting into pans.

Proceed in the same manner for each baking, keeping the ball covered in a cool place between bakings. A new ball will not need to be started oftener than once in three months if at all.

This yeast works very quickly and makes beautiful bread. Of course for small bakings, half the quantity of yeast would be sufficient.

=“Delicious” Bread=

I do not know the origin of this yeast but the bread is truly named.

Put into a pitcher or some suitable deep vessel 2 cups of mashed potato to which has been added 1 cup of sugar and 1 qt. of warm water. Cover and let stand in a warm room for from 1 to 3 days or until covered with a foam almost like the meringue on a pie. Mix some of this foam with 1 cup of warm mashed potato, let stand in a warm place 1-2 hrs., add 1 tablespn. of salt and set away in a cool place.

To the original yeast add 1-2 qts. water, 2-3 teaspns. salt and warm flour to knead; when light, stir down, and put into pans the second time it rises. Be careful not to let it get over light in the pans before baking.

For the next baking, add 1 cup of sugar and the 1 cup of potato reserved from the last baking, to 2 cups of fresh mashed potato; take out 1 cupful as before, let stand in warm place 1 hr., add 1 tablespn. of salt and set in a cool place.

To the 2 cups of potato add a little water and set in a warm place until light, when water to make 2 or 3 qts. may be added and the bread kneaded up.

This bread needs to be eaten to be appreciated.

The yeast may be used in universal crust, raised cakes and wherever other yeast is used, with delightful results.

=Boston Brown Bread. Corn and Rye=

1 pt. warm water 1 tablespn. oil 1 teaspn. salt ¾ cup molasses ⅔-1 cake of yeast 1 pt. rye meal 1 pt. granular corn meal

Mix all ingredients, let rise; pour into tins, let rise, not too light; steam 3 hrs. bake 20-30 m. in slow oven.

Raisins or nuts or both are good in brown bread.

=Boston Brown Bread, No. 2.=

1 pt. water 1 tablespn. oil ¾ cup molasses ⅔-1 cake yeast 1 teaspn. salt 1⅓ cup pastry flour 1⅓ cup rye flour 3-3⅓ cups granular corn meal

Mix all ingredients except corn meal, let rise, add meal, turn into tins and when risen not quite double, steam for 3 hrs. and bake 20 m. to ½ hr. in slow oven.

=West Virginia Scalded Corn Meal Bread=

1 cup Rhode Island meal 1 cup boiling water 1½ cup warm water 3-3½ cups dry meal ¾ cake of compressed yeast 1 small egg 1-1¼ teaspn. salt 1 tablespn. oil

A little more meal may be used.

Scald 1 cup of meal with boiling water, add warm water, yeast, oil and dry meal. When light, add salt and beaten egg, let rise in the dish in which it is to be baked. The bread is best baked in an iron skillet or frying pan with a cover.

=★ Corn Cake=

_Sponge_--

1 pt. skimmed milk 1 tablespn. oil 1 tablespn. sugar ½ cake yeast 4¼-4½ cups pastry flour

When light; 1 teaspn. salt, 2 cups granular corn meal, 2 eggs slightly beaten. Turn into well oiled pan to depth of 1-1½ in., let stand in warm place a few minutes, bake in moderate oven.

The quantity of flour will vary with the brand, 3¾-4 cups only of bread flour will be required. The eggs make a finer grained as well as lighter bread. One egg will do if eggs are scarce.

=Salt Rising Bread--Suggestions=

Tastes and opinions differ concerning this bread but no other takes its place to those who were accustomed to it in childhood.

With a little practice, salt rising bread becomes less work to make than hop yeast bread. It is more wholesome and richer flavored and keeps better than other yeast bread, and it has a fine cake-like texture.

The experience of some persons is that salt rising bread is less apt to cause acidity in the stomach than hop yeast bread.

The secrets of success with it are in keeping it evenly warm; in not making it too stiff; and in not kneading it too much. Too much flour renders salt rising bread dry and powdery.

The water surrounding the rising at different stages should be at a temperature of 110 to 125 degrees, or so that it feels hot to the hand, but not scalding.

In cold weather, an ideal way to keep the loaves warm while rising is to put them on bricks in a pan or tub of warm water and cover them with a blanket.

It is well to scald all utensils used for the bread with boiling sal-soda water and to use the same water to stand the yeast in while rising.

While the flour added to salt rising bread should be warm, it must never have been hot at any time before using as it is the yeast germs which it and the other ingredients contain that raise the bread.

The loaves should be wrapped in a thick cloth when taken from the oven and left until cold. Salt rising bread makes sweet and tender zwieback.

=Salt Rising Bread. No. 1=

Mix 1 tablespn. each of salt, sugar and corn meal (white or Rhode Island if obtainable) with 3 tablespns. of oil, pour over all 1½ pt. of boiling water; stir until sugar and salt are dissolved, then add 1½ pt. cold water that has never been heated. Add warm flour for thick batter which will be rather thin after beating (about 2 qts., perhaps). Beat thoroughly and set in pan of water at 110 to 125 degrees or in some place that can be kept at a uniform temperature much warmer than for common yeast bread but not warm enough to scald the rising. When the first bubbles appear, beat the batter thoroughly and repeat the beating each hour until light, which will be in from 4-6 hours. The rising should not be allowed to become too light at any time. When the batter is light, close the doors so that there will be no draughts. Have the pans oiled and warm, and the flour warm. Add the flour rapidly with very little stirring, to the batter; when stiff enough, turn all out on to a warmed, floured board and work in quickly with as little kneading as possible enough flour for a rather soft dough; form into loaves and place in oiled pans, set in a warm place, covering well to keep a crust from forming over the top as well as to keep the loaves warm. As soon as light, place in a moderate oven and bake thoroughly.

=Salt Rising Bread. No. 2=

To 1 cup very warm water add ½ teaspn. of salt and fine middlings (shorts) to make a rather stiff batter; beat well, cover and set in a dish of very warm water, covered, beat 2 or 3 times while rising. When light, turn into a warm mixing bowl, add 1 pt. or more of warm water, a little more salt and warm graham flour (part white flour if preferred) for a soft dough, and finish the same as No. 1.

=★ Universal Crust=

For shortcakes, fruit tarts, meat and vegetable pies, pot pie dumplings, crackers, buns, steamed puddings, loaf cake, doughnuts and cookies, rusk and Sally Lunn.

1 cup skimmed milk ⅓ cup (large 4 tablespns.) oil ¼ teaspn. salt ½ teaspn. sugar 1-2 tablespns. liquid yeast or ⅓ cake compressed yeast pastry flour

Mix all ingredients except salt and add flour for sponge batter; beat; when light, add salt and warm flour for moderately stiff dough. Knead a little and cut into biscuit for the top of fruit tarts or meat or vegetable pies, or place on tins for shortcake crusts. For dumplings, use only ¼ cup of oil or 1½ tablespn. of raw nut butter.

The crust may be kneaded stiff at first and allowed to rise twice.

If the crusts are not fine grained it is because you have not used enough flour or have not kneaded them enough; but they do not want to be quite as stiff as bread is usually mixed.

Shortcake crusts or tins of thin biscuit may be made and kept on hand and just warmed up when needed, or laid over meat or vegetable pie fillings or hot cooked fruit fillings and left in the oven long enough to warm through.

We consider this one of the most valuable recipes in the book since it can be used in so many ways in the place of baking powder crusts.

=Sour Cream Crust--no soda=

1 cup thick sour cream ⅓-½ cake compressed yeast ¼ teaspn. salt white flour

Make sponge or knead at once to soft dough, let rise, make into any desired shape and when light, bake. This is very nice for shortcake crusts and can be used for nearly all purposes that universal crust is. That the cream was sour would not be known after the crust is baked.

=Sally Lunn. Breakfast or Supper Bread=

Use 1 egg, with or without 1 tablespn. of sugar to each cup of milk in universal crust. Bake in shallow or thick loaf as preferred.

=★ ★ Soup Crackers=

1 cup of skimmed milk or water ⅓ cup (scant half cup with water) of oil or oil and melted butter ½ teaspn. salt ½ teaspn. sugar 1 or 2 tablespns. liquid yeast or ¼-½ cake compressed yeast pastry flour for stiff dough, 4½-5 cups

Knead thoroughly (dough may be put through food cutter 5 or 6 times); when light, fold down and turn over and when risen again, roll thin, prick all over quickly with fork or docker, cut into any size or shape desired and bake at once before the crackers have time to rise and acquire a bread like taste. Bake in a moderate oven until well dried all through, but not too brown. When properly baked these crackers are more suitable for soups than unleavened crackers, as they are more porous and tender. Tiny ones cut with a plain round pastry tube are attractive for special occasions. They may be cut in larger sizes, sometimes as large as a saucer, like the Swedish milk biscuit, for serving salads or entrées upon. For salads, they may have a hole in the center. I have an oblong cutter, made by bending a small round tin tube into that shape, that makes pretty soup crackers. Bake the dough in long slender rolls for Soup Sticks.

=★ Rolls=

_Dough_--

1 pt. milk ½-1 cake compressed yeast or 2-4 tablespns. liquid yeast ½-¾ teaspn. salt 2 tablespns. oil about 3 pts. flour

Add yeast to warm milk with flour for batter; let rise, add salt, oil, and flour to knead. Knead and pound dough until elastic. Let rise in bulk or roll out at once. 1 tablespn. of sugar is sometimes added to light sponge; also 1 egg or 2 yolks or 2 beaten whites.

An excellent way is to let the dough rise in bulk after kneading, and when light, turn from the oiled bowl on to the board and roll out without mixing.

For _Parker House_ rolls, roll dough ½ in. thick, cut out with large biscuit cutter, press across the center or a little one side of the center with a small round stick (the bakers have a piece of broom handle rubbed smooth with sandpaper) or knife handle, brush one side with oil or butter and fold the other side over, place on oiled and floured pan with spaces between so the shape will not be spoiled in baking. Let rise until very light, when nearly light, wring a cloth out of warm water, not too dry, and lay it over the rolls for a short time. Bake in quick oven.

For _Crescents_, roll the dough as nearly square as possible, less than ¼ in. thick, cut into strips 7 in. wide, cut the strips into squares and the squares diagonally into halves; brush lightly with water, then commence to roll firmly from the long side, opposite the point of the triangle; leave the point underneath. Lay on the pans in the shape of a horseshoe, when light, bake in a quick oven. May brush with white of egg or thin cooked starch paste when nearly done.

The _Vienna_ roll is made by shaping the same as the Vienna loaf (a little smaller at each end), about 6 in. in length. When the rolls are light in the pan, gash the top of each diagonally three times with a sharp knife. Bake in a moderate oven.

Roll dough into a long strip, cut into 3-in. lengths, lay close together in pan, brush with syrup made by cooking together for one minute equal quantities of milk and sugar; let rise, bake, for _Finger_ rolls.

Sometimes roll dough thick and cut with small round cutter.