CHAPTER V

RAMBLES IN PEKIN

The Peitan—Defence of the Cathedral—A prelate of the Church militant—A gallant defence—Aspect of Pekin after the restoration of order—A stroll down Ha‐ta‐man Street—Street scenes—Peddlers—Jugglers—Peep‐shows and a shock—A dancing bear—Shoeing a pony—The sorrows of a Pekin shopkeeper—Silk and fan shops—A pottery store—A market‐place—A chaffering crowd—Beggars—The Legation wall—Visit to the Great Lama Temple—The outer gate—The first court—Lama priests—Rapacious beggars—The central temple—Colossal statue of Buddha—The lesser temples—Improper gods—Photographing the priests—The Temple of Confucius—A bare interior—A visit to a Pekin _cloisonné_ factory—Method of manufacture—Deft artists—Firing—The enamel—The humiliation of China—The standards of the victors _pages_ 95–114