CHAPTER X

We ride to Scutari--The Albanian Customs officials--We suffer much from Turkish saddles--Arrival at Scutari, and again pass the Customs--"Buon arrivato"--Scutari and its religious troubles--The town and bazaar--A slight misunderstanding, Yes and No--We return to Rijeka by steamer--The beauties of the trip--Wrong change--The prodigal son's return, when the fatted calf is _not_ killed